conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide a description for a book titled Craft Bookbinding about with the genre: Crafts, Hobbies & Home, Crafts & Hobbies.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: the author has been binding books for nearly 20 years and runs courses regularly. She has a small business which specializes in book restoration, but she also enjoys craft bookbinding with its many varied structures.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first five paragraphs for this book.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Craft Bookbinding
  Paste is either starch based, usually wheat or rice starch as these give the strongest bond, or cellulose ethers. Starch pastes are made from the roots, tubers or seeds of plants such as potatoes, corn, oats, rice or wheat and give a stronger bond than cellulose ethers. It is made by heating starch molecules in water until they burst, absorb some of the water and become sticky. Cellulose pastes have properties which make them excellent for removing old glues and stains from paper and they are used widely in paper conservation.
  The easiest way to apply PVA over large surface areas is to use a mini paint roller. Use a good quality roller sleeve with a short nap – the sort that is recommended for applying gloss paint to smooth surfaces. With one of these you can easily and quickly apply a thin even coat with a fine stippled surface and there is no risk of getting any paint underneath the material to which it is being applied. If you can, get a roller tray with a lid. The lids are not airtight, but it will keep the glue useable for a day or two. If the glue starts to dry out while you are using it, just spray the surface with water.
  It must be said that the disadvantage of using a roller sleeve is that it is quite wasteful. The sleeve holds a lot of glue, which is difficult to remove, and this will all be lost every time you wash it. You can leave the sleeve in with the glue overnight, although you should always remove the handle to prevent it from rusting. It will keep for a week or more if you store the lidded tray in a sealed plastic bag, but if you are not going to use the glue for some time, you should wash out the sleeve and decant the glue into an airtight container.
  The most effective brushes have fairly stiff bristles. Natural hairs work best. Synthetic haired brushes designed for use with acrylics seem ideal for small areas and work well for the first few applications, but the PVA will ruin them after a while, and they will end up looking as though they have a bad case of split ends and will be impossible to use with any precision.
  For precise work, get some hog's hair brushes designed for oil painting. Small areas can be catered for by relatively cheap brushes designed for use in schools or children's craft centres, but make sure that the bristles are well attached and will not come loose during use. To use a small brush, hold it as you would hold a pen or pencil.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Delete the last sentence.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Craft Bookbinding
  Paste is either starch based, usually wheat or rice starch as these give the strongest bond, or cellulose ethers. Starch pastes are made from the roots, tubers or seeds of plants such as potatoes, corn, oats, rice or wheat and give a stronger bond than cellulose ethers. It is made by heating starch molecules in water until they burst, absorb some of the water and become sticky. Cellulose pastes have properties which make them excellent for removing old glues and stains from paper and they are used widely in paper conservation.
  The easiest way to apply PVA over large surface areas is to use a mini paint roller. Use a good quality roller sleeve with a short nap – the sort that is recommended for applying gloss paint to smooth surfaces. With one of these you can easily and quickly apply a thin even coat with a fine stippled surface and there is no risk of getting any paint underneath the material to which it is being applied. If you can, get a roller tray with a lid. The lids are not airtight, but it will keep the glue useable for a day or two. If the glue starts to dry out while you are using it, just spray the surface with water.
  It must be said that the disadvantage of using a roller sleeve is that it is quite wasteful. The sleeve holds a lot of glue, which is difficult to remove, and this will all be lost every time you wash it. You can leave the sleeve in with the glue overnight, although you should always remove the handle to prevent it from rusting. It will keep for a week or more if you store the lidded tray in a sealed plastic bag, but if you are not going to use the glue for some time, you should wash out the sleeve and decant the glue into an airtight container.
  The most effective brushes have fairly stiff bristles. Natural hairs work best. Synthetic haired brushes designed for use with acrylics seem ideal for small areas and work well for the first few applications, but the PVA will ruin them after a while, and they will end up looking as though they have a bad case of split ends and will be impossible to use with any precision.
  For precise work, get some hog's hair brushes designed for oil painting. Small areas can be catered for by relatively cheap brushes designed for use in schools or children's craft centres, but make sure that the bristles are well attached and will not come loose during use.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide two more paragraphs.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Chain link stitch is widely used for exposed sewing. The numbers indicate the order in which it is sewn.
  Starting from the inside of the first section come out at one kettle stitch and sew down the first section making a small loop at each of the sewing stations including the first kettle stitch until emerging at the other kettle stitch position.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the last four paragraphs.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Before making up the cover, make sure that the boards are the right size, make up the spine piece and mark the distance you will need between the boards on a piece of paper. You will need to work on the lettered board first so put your paper measurement, back board and spine piece on one side to be used to make up the case at a later stage.
  If there is a lot of lettering, add a little water to the glue to give you a longer open time. Glue the board making sure that there is glue in all the little nooks and crannies, especially on the outer edges of the letters.
  Place the glued board on the cloth in a position that will allow you to make up the rest of the cover later on. Rub it down lightly; then turn it over so you can work on it from the other side. Tap down on the cloth over the lettered area with a stencil brush, working quickly to roughly push the cloth in and around the letters – pushing it down into all the little nooks and crannies. If you have access to a nipping press, protect the covering material with some clean kitchen paper, place some foam on top; then put it all between pressing boards and nip it hard for about thirty seconds. Otherwise rub it down thoroughly all over with a folder. Then work round each letter with a folder or a variety of modelling tools to sharpen and neaten up all the edges.
  Leave the board to dry for a couple of days before continuing to make up the case in order to assess if it needs pulling or not and adjust the boards accordingly.