conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first five paragraphs for a Regional Guide book with the title 'Lonely Planet'.. End with the sentence ' Thanks, too, to the many park rangers I met, for the ever-helpful job they do.'.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Thank you, Whitney George in Ruidoso, for a great story about one Mike the Midget and a mysterious village beneath Bonita Lake. I owe the biggest thanks to Kelly and Luke, who always let me go and always welcome me back.
  Suki Gear, Sam Benson, Regis St Louis and Justin Flynn, for the opportunity and their good cheer and advice.
  Suki Gear, thanks for trusting me to get into enough (but not too much) trouble in Sin City. My trusty co-pilot, the intrepid Jennifer Christensen, deserves serious props for remaining calm during flat tires, blizzards, and a losing streak in the smokey blackjack room of the Hotel Nevada. Finally, to Jack and every­one at the Hard Rock, thanks for showing me how the locals rock Vegas nightlife (fearlessly, of course).
  I always meet so many kindred spirits on the Utah road. Thanks go to Nan Johnson, Peggy Egan, Trista Rayner, Nicole Muraro, David Belz, Jessica Kunzer, Lisa Varga and Ty Markham, among others. I very much enjoyed talking to you all. Thanks, too, to the many park rangers I met, for the ever-helpful job they do.
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: All the usual suspects get thanks again, especially the fabulous multitasking Suki Gear and the dynamo known as Sam Benson. California cohorts and experts this time around included Agent 'Pedal-to-the-metal' Moller, Felix 'Hella Loves Oakland' Thomson, Jenny 'Stink' G, Dillon 'The Scientist' Dutton and Julia 'Wawona' Brashares, plus all the helpful and patient rangers at Yosemite National Park. Kudos to Regis St Louis, Alison Lyall and Anna Metcalfe for all their crucial work.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the last five paragraphs.
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conversations.value: All the usual suspects get thanks again, especially the fabulous multitasking Suki Gear and the dynamo known as Sam Benson. California cohorts and experts this time around included Agent 'Pedal-to-the-metal' Moller, Felix 'Hella Loves Oakland' Thomson, Jenny 'Stink' G, Dillon 'The Scientist' Dutton and Julia 'Wawona' Brashares, plus all the helpful and patient rangers at Yosemite National Park. Kudos to Regis St Louis, Alison Lyall and Anna Metcalfe for all their crucial work.
  Cover photograph: View of a barn, Montana; Carol Polich, LPI. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.
  Jennifer Bilos, Samantha Curcio, Mark Germanchis, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Matt Langley, Chris Lee Ack, Nic Lehman, Alex Leung, Corine Liang, Ross Macaw, Jared O'Loughlin, Piers Pickard, Matt Swaine
  Southwest Long enamored of Sin City's gritty enchantments, Sarah jumped at the chance to sharpen her blackjack skills while delving into the atomic and alien mysteries of rural Nevada. In Vegas, Sarah learned the secret art of bypassing velvet ropes, bounced from buffets to pool parties, and explored the seedy vintage glamour of downtown. Sarah is currently based between the US and Amsterdam, where she works as a writer, actress, and lecturer at Amsterdam University College. When in doubt, she always doubles down.
  California A journalist who divides her time between California and Argentina, Bridget has written about food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Budget Travel, Afar, Delta Sky, Jetsetter, Continental, Tablet Hotels and Mr & Mrs Smith. Follow her travels at www.bridgetgleeson.com.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: What could be a category for this book?
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: A category could be '13th Edition book'
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first paragraph for this book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Marruecos es uno de los países más variados de África: una maravilla que aglutina desde altas montañas, un desierto inmenso y una costa escarpada hasta laberínticos callejones y zocos en las medinas de sus ciudades.
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conversations.value: Para llegar a la ciudad, CTM tiene una oficina junto al Café Laetizia, en el lado oeste de la plaza principal. Hay solo una salida a última hora de la tarde hacia Fez (125 MAD, 5 h), Mequínez (140 MAD, 7½ h), Rabat (180 MAD, 8½ h) y Casablanca (195 MAD, 10 h). Los autobuses de largo recorrido hacia España también salen de aquí. Si se conduce un vehículo propio, se desaconseja repostar con el combustible que venden por la carretera; lo traen de contrabando desde Argelia y quizá esté adulterado.
  Desde Berkane, la carretera atraviesa un bello paisaje de montaña hasta Taforalt (Tafoughalt). Es un asentamiento surgido sin orden en torno a una antigua instalación militar francesa, pero en su extremo norte, por el que se entra, tiene un encantador tramo de cafés y restaurantes. Uno de ellos es el Club Taforalt (abr-oct), con un sencillo restaurante y piscina (entrada 50 MAD) en un jardín. Para alojarse, está el cercano Auberge Taforalt (tel. 0662 04 51 19; www.taforaltclub.com; h desayuno incl. 350 MAD, tienda 250 MAD).
  Poco después de entrar en Taforalt desde Berkane, se gira a la izquierda en la oficina de correos, luego enseguida de nuevo a la izquierda y se siguen las indicaciones hasta el Infokiosk, que tiene una pequeña pero buena exposición sobre la historia natural del parque y una plataforma de observación con preciosas vistas a un distante cerro testigo. Si hay suerte se divisará alguna oveja de Berbería, de gran cornamenta, de la reserva colindante. Suelen aparecer hacia las 16.00, cuando refresca.
  Volviendo a bajar por la carretera, a unos 2 km hay un desvío señalizado a la derecha hacia dos grupos de cuevas. En las Grottes des Pigeons (1 km) está en curso una excavación de la Universidad de Oxford que ha descubierto restos humanos del Pleistoceno, con joyas de hace 80 000 años.
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conversations.value: Costa mediterránea y el Rif, Ciudades imperiales, Atlas Medio y el este Fascinada por la diversidad de Marruecos, Helen se mudó a Fez en el 2004 y desde entonces se ha dedicado a escribir acerca del país, incluidas sendas colaboraciones en Fez Encounter y en la edición anterior de Marruecos. Le fascinan tanto los muros de color ocre de las ciudades imperiales como las agrestes montañas del Rif, los bulevares y antros de Tánger y la notable arquitectura (y los bares de tapas) de Ceuta y Melilla.
  Con la autorización para la edición en español de Publications Pty Ltd A.B.N. 36 005 607 983, Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Melbourne, VIC 3011, Australia
  La guía de Marruecos más vendida en España. Fuente: Nielsen BookScan en España, período enero-diciembre del 2014.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first four paragraphs for the book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  The international terminal **(**  **0361-751011)** and domestic terminal **(**  **0361-751011)** are a few hundred metres apart. Immigration lines in the former can be notoriously long (two-plus hours). From the official counters, just outside the terminals, there are usually hassle-free prepaid airport taxis. Ignore any touts that aren't part of the official scheme. The costs (depending on drop-off point):
  If you have a surfboard, you'll be charged at least 35,000Rp extra, depending on its size. Many hotels will offer to pick you up at the airport, but there's no need to use this service if it costs more than the above rates.
  The thrifty can walk across the airport car park to the right (northeast) from the international and domestic terminals and continue a couple of hundred metres through the vehicle exit to the airport road (ignoring any touts along the way), where you can hail a Bali Taxi for about half the above amounts.
  The airport departure tax from Bali is 40,000Rp (domestic) and 150,000Rp (international). Have exact cash for the booths located right before passport control as you are leaving.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide three more paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Security concerns increased after the 2002 and 2005 bombings but these have tended to fade over time. The odds you will be caught up in such a tragedy are low.
  Clinics and pharmacies (selling many prescription medicines over the counter) abound in tourist areas. For serious illnesses, BIMC **(**  **0361-761263; www.bimcbali.com; JI Ngurah Rai 100X; **  **24hr)** is on the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali Galleria and easily accessible from most of southern Bali. It's the most modern clinic in Bali and it can arrange medical evacuation.
  Bali has a lot of holidays. In addition there are scores more associated with regions and temples. It's worth noting when Nyepi, the Day of Silence, falls each year (see boxed text).
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Swap the first and the last sentence.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: It's worth noting when Nyepi, the Day of Silence, falls each year (see boxed text). The odds you will be caught up in such a tragedy are low.
  Clinics and pharmacies (selling many prescription medicines over the counter) abound in tourist areas. For serious illnesses, BIMC **(**  **0361-761263; www.bimcbali.com; JI Ngurah Rai 100X; **  **24hr)** is on the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali Galleria and easily accessible from most of southern Bali. It's the most modern clinic in Bali and it can arrange medical evacuation.
  Bali has a lot of holidays. In addition there are scores more associated with regions and temples.Security concerns increased after the 2002 and 2005 bombings but these have tended to fade over time.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the last three paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Ryan Ver Berkmoes first visited Bali in 1993. On his visits since he has explored almost every corner of the island. Just when he thinks he's sampled every beach on the island, he goes down a little track and finds another sandy cove. Better yet, he simply never tires of the place. Five visits in two years shows this – sometimes his Bali social calendar is busier than anywhere else. Off-island, Ryan lives in Portland, Oregon and vows to sample every last microbrew in town – a lifetime avocation.
  This list just seems to grow. Many thanks to friends like Hanafi, Jeremy Allan, Eliot Cohen, Jamie James, Mary Justice Thomasson-Croll, Kerry and Milton Turner, Adyus, Kadek Gunarta, Ibu Cat, Patricia Miklautsch, Rucina Ballinger, Jack Daniels, Marilyn, Wayan Suarnata, Chrystine Hanley and many more. Seeing my friends in Bali always makes me want to double my stay while tripling the fun.
  Jasna Bratic, John Carney, Nicholas Colicchia, Samantha Curcio, Mark Germanchis, Brice Gosnell, Frank Deim, Lainey Franks, Jane Hart, Steven Henderson, Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Matt Langley, Ross Macaw, Douglas McClurg, Leon Messerschmidt, Stephen Palmer, Darren O'Connell, Piers Pickard, Lachlan Ross, Rebecca Skinner, Kate Sullivan, Violetta Trajcevski, Textech, Justin Wark
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first four paragraphs for this book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Los brasileños son muy familiares. Algunos hoteles no cobran a los niños (el límite de edad varía), es fácil encontrar canguros y en la mayoría de los restaurantes tienen tronas.
  Las playas ofrecen mucha diversión de cubo y pala, especialmente en el Posto 12 de Leblon, conocido como Baixo Bébe por su pequeño reducto infantil y la abundancia de mamás. Otras opciones incluyen los espectáculos y exposiciones del Planetário (Clicar), los barcos del Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Clicar) y las exposiciones mecanizadas del Museu de Folclore Edison Carnerio (Clicar). También se puede alquilar una bicicleta (las hay de 4 ruedas) y visitar el parque infantil que hay junto al puesto de bicicletas de la Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Clicar).
  La ciudad cuenta con una amplia variedad de alojamientos, incluidos hoteles-boutique, albergues, B&B y numerosos bloques de apartamentos a lo largo de Copacabana. Para estar en pleno centro de la acción, y pagar por ello, Ipanema o Leblon ofrecen hermosas playas y restaurantes excelentes, muchas tiendas y animada vida nocturna. Copacabana es más popular, con alojamientos menos caros también cerca de la playa (y de Ipanema en autobús o taxi). Como alternativa a la playa, conviene echar un vistazo a las pensiones coloniales de Santa Teresa, un barrio que además queda cerca de la fantástica vida nocturna de Lapa. En otras zonas a lo largo de la línea de metro (Botafogo, Flamengo y Catete) las tarifas suelen ser más asequibles que en los barrios playeros del sur.
  Los precios aumentan un 30% en verano (dic-med may) y se doblan y hasta triplican para Nochevieja y Carnaval, cuando, además, la mayoría de establecimientos, incluidos los albergues, exigen estancias mínimas de cuatro días o más.
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: Arraial tiene mucha vida nocturna en verano, cuando los clubes de playa organizan grandes fiestas (entrada 25-45 BRL); hay relaciones públicas por todas partes y las agencias de viajes informan de lo último. Otra opción para los noctámbulos es el complejo discotequero Ilha dos Aquarios (Clicar), en una isla entre Porto Arraial y Porto Seguro.
  Hay varios cibercafés (6 BRL/h aprox.) y cajeros por el pueblo. Para información turística, conviene parar en el quiosco de la plaza principal, en la parte alta de Rua do Mucugê, con planos y folletos sobre las principales excursiones y circuitos.
  Los ferries de vehículos y pasajeros conectan casi constantemente Porto Seguro con Arraial d'Ajuda de 7.00 a 24.00; desde medianoche hasta primera hora de la mañana funcionan cada hora. Los precios varían según el sentido del trayecto y el ferry. Los pasajeros pueden viajar gratis o pagar 2,50 BRL, y los vehículos cuestan 9,50-12 BRL. La travesía dura 10-15 min. Desde el muelle, un autobús o una camioneta Kombi llevan hasta Arraial (2,50 BRL). Otra opción es recorrer el camino de 4 km a lo largo de la playa, pero hay que tener cuidado con los objetos de valor y nunca ir solo cuando las playas estén desiertas
  Si se llega al aeropuerto de Porto Seguro y se quiere ir directo a Arraial, conviene evitar líos y tomar un taxi para hacer todo el recorrido (120 BRL, ferry incl.).
  En Arraial hay agencias que alquilan bicicletas, motocicletas, automóviles y buggies. Se aconseja hacerse con un buen mapa antes de salir por los caminos.
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conversations.value: Bahía, Sergipe y Alagoas Tras años viviendo en Argentina, los sueños de cocoteros y arrecifes finalmente tentaron a Bridget a cruzar la frontera brasileña, donde enseguida se enamoró del noreste. Escribe sobre gastronomía, vino, arte y cultura de Latinoamérica para Afar, Budget Travel, Wine Enthusiast, BBC Travel y Jetsetter.
  Pernambuco, Paraíba y Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí y Maranhão La segunda expedición de John desde Recife hasta São Luís para esta guía confirmó su convicción de que ningún otro lugar del mundo tiene playas de verdad. Autor de unos 80 títulos de durante casi tres décadas, John es británico y cuenta Brasil entre sus países favoritos, entre otras cosas por su genio musical y futbolístico, la increíble euforia del Carnaval, el bello idioma portugués brasileño y, sobre todo, el sentido innato que los brasileños tienen para disfrutar de la vida.
  Estado de São Paulo, Paraná, Santa Catarina, Rio Grande do Sul Kevin se crió en Atlanta y comenzó su carrera como periodista musical en Nueva York, donde trabajó para las revistas Men's Journal y Rolling Stone. Abandonó el rock para escribir sobre viajes y se mudó a Brasil. En su viaje por el sur tuvo demasiados encuentros con corazones de pollo (¿en la pasta? ¿en la pizza? ¡No, gracias!) y demasiado pocos con las increíbles cervezas artesanas de la región. Esta es la 25a guía de Kevin. Su web es www.kevinraub.net.
  Brasilia y Goiás, Mato Grosso y Mato Grosso do Sul Desde muy joven, y con la vaga e ingenua ambición de convertirse en el nuevo David Attenborough, Paul soñaba con explorar las zonas más remotas del globo en busca de vida salvaje. le ofreció una forma más realista de hacerlo. Investigando para esta edición, Paul celebró el Carnaval en Piri, contempló las entrañas de la Tierra en el Nascente Azul y se quemó las orejas con una llama eterna en Brasilia.
  La guía de Brasil más vendida en España. Fuente: Nielsen Bookscan en España, período enero – diciembre del 2013.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first three paragraphs for the book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Anne Mickler, Ariane Courtemanche, Barry Burlingham, Christina Stauffer, Hans Bevers, Hector Carrillo, Itzhak Goldberg, James Ramsden, Jane Vincent, Jodie Barlow, Jules Feiler, Mhairi Harris, Rosa Le Mains, Sain Alizada, Shaan Frazer, Stefano Pasero, Susan Desousa, Trevor Payne, Willis Harte
  A big shout-out to those who've made my life much happier while researching the Pacific Northwest: Carolyn Hubbard and Mike Hainsworth in Seattle, Adrienne Robineau in Port Townsend and Celeste Brash in Portland. Special thanks also to my husband Ben Greensfelder, who has supported my research trips over the years (whether he joins me on my travels or not), and to my parents and brother, who have always been there for me throughout my peripatetic life.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide four more paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Anne Mickler, Ariane Courtemanche, Barry Burlingham, Christina Stauffer, Hans Bevers, Hector Carrillo, Itzhak Goldberg, James Ramsden, Jane Vincent, Jodie Barlow, Jules Feiler, Mhairi Harris, Rosa Le Mains, Sain Alizada, Shaan Frazer, Stefano Pasero, Susan Desousa, Trevor Payne, Willis Harte
  A big shout-out to those who've made my life much happier while researching the Pacific Northwest: Carolyn Hubbard and Mike Hainsworth in Seattle, Adrienne Robineau in Port Townsend and Celeste Brash in Portland. Special thanks also to my husband Ben Greensfelder, who has supported my research trips over the years (whether he joins me on my travels or not), and to my parents and brother, who have always been there for me throughout my peripatetic life.
  Many thanks to: Christina Stone-Millan,Meredith Stone, Rich Tyson, Beth Kracklauer, Gabriela Gonzalez, Waverly Duck, Katie Trainor, Brandon del Pozo, MichaelLoBianco, Robbi Kearns and Michael Grosberg. Also thanks to generous and kind Filona Ryan, Matt the tow-truck guy, and Bill and Melissa of Bird's Towing.
  Serious thanks to my parents who believed in the value of road trips and my sister who always sided with demanding the motel pool have a slide. Big thanks to all the fine Great Plains folk who tipped me off to secrets and treasures – the Home on the Range Cabin was a major score. Also thanks to John Holden for giving me a good excuse to add more road to my road trip. Finally thanks to Alexis Averbuck for proving that it's always Plum season no matter where I am.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Add another sentence about Tabernacle-Chatsworth, Road.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Anne Mickler, Ariane Courtemanche, Barry Burlingham, Christina Stauffer, Hans Bevers, Hector Carrillo, Itzhak Goldberg, James Ramsden, Jane Vincent, Jodie Barlow, Jules Feiler, Mhairi Harris, Rosa Le Mains, Sain Alizada, Shaan Frazer, Stefano Pasero, Susan Desousa, Trevor Payne, Willis Harte
  A big shout-out to those who've made my life much happier while researching the Pacific Northwest: Carolyn Hubbard and Mike Hainsworth in Seattle, Adrienne Robineau in Port Townsend and Celeste Brash in Portland. Special thanks also to my husband Ben Greensfelder, who has supported my research trips over the years (whether he joins me on my travels or not), and to my parents and brother, who have always been there for me throughout my peripatetic life. 
  Many thanks to: Christina Stone-Millan,Meredith Stone, Rich Tyson, Beth Kracklauer, Gabriela Gonzalez, Waverly Duck, Katie Trainor, Brandon del Pozo, MichaelLoBianco, Robbi Kearns and Michael Grosberg. Also thanks to generous and kind Filona Ryan, Matt the tow-truck guy, and Bill and Melissa of Bird's Towing. And sort of thanks to the inhospitable residents of Tabernacle-Chatsworth Road: I guess that 5-mile walk was good for me. 
  Serious thanks to my parents who believed in the value of road trips and my sister who always sided with demanding the motel pool have a slide. Big thanks to all the fine Great Plains folk who tipped me off to secrets and treasures – the Home on the Range Cabin was a major score. Also thanks to John Holden for giving me a good excuse to add more road to my road trip. Finally thanks to Alexis Averbuck for proving that it's always Plum season no matter where I am.
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conversations.value: Provide the last five paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Cover photograph: Toroweap Point at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona; Maurizio Rellini/4Corners
  Rocky Mountains Becky Ohlsen grew up in the Rockies and seizes every chance she gets to explore the region. She has a huge crush on the Tetons, believes that jackalopes are real and likes to watch a storm roll in across a far-away horizon.
  The South, Florida Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men's Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock 'n' roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Living outside the country, it's fair to say he immensely enjoyed gorging on Nashville hot chicken, Memphis BBQ, craft beer out the wazoo and various other unmentionables on his voyage through the Southern US. This is Kevin's 34th guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).
  Alaska An expat Brit from Hampshire, England, now living near Vancouver, Canada; Brendan has long relished the 'thrill' of masochistic endurance events in remote wilderness areas and thus jumped at the chance to cover Alaska for. He particularly relished getting his hands numb in Nome, re-reading Jack London, and bussing it along the Top of the World Highway from Chicken to the Yukon. When not scribbling research notes for in countries such as Cuba, Peru, Spain and Canada, Brendan likes refining his cross-country skiing technique, strumming old Clash songs on the guitar and experiencing the pain and occasional pleasures of following Southampton Football Club.
  Great Plains Ryan first drove across the Great Plains with his family in the 1960s. Among the treasured memories are marveling at the Jackalope at Wall Drugs in South Dakota and which he relived when he tried riding the big one out back this year. Through the years he never passes up a chance to wander the backroads of America's heartland finding beauty and intrigue where you least expect it. Find more at www.ryanverberkmoes.com; @ryanvb
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first three paragraphs for this book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Castillos, aldeas adoquinadas, ciudades cautivadoras y playas doradas: vivir la experiencia lusa puede significar muchas cosas. Historia, buena comida y paisajes idílicos son solo el comienzo.
  Celtas, romanos, visigodos, moros y cristianos: todos dejaron aquí su impronta. Pueden contemplarse grabados en piedra de 20 000 años en Vila Nova de Foz Côa, observar el atardecer sobre los misteriosos megalitos a las afueras de Évora o perderse por los ornamentados pasadizos de Tomar, Belém, Alcobaça o Batalha. Organícese una ruta para visitar los palacios ubicados en los bosques, los castillos sobre escarpados acantilados y los centros urbanos medievales tan bien conservados.
  Pan recién hecho, olivas, queso, vino tinto o vinho verde (vino espumoso), cataplana (cazuela de marisco), viandas ahumadas... Los portugueses han perfeccionado el arte de la cocina sencilla y sabrosa. Al sentarse a la mesa se disfruta de la generosidad del litoral luso y sus fértiles campos; pero no es obligatorio tomar asiento, porque el viajero puede saborear de pie un calentito pastel de nata (tarta de crema) en una pastelería de 1837 en Belém, o pasear por las pintorescas viñas degustando los aterciopelados oportos del valle del Duero. Se puede ir de compras a los mercados, llenos de productos locales, o reservar mesa en uno de los mejores restaurantes del país.
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conversations.value: En Portugal, los templarios jugaron un papel clave en la expulsión de los moros. A pesar de su voto de pobreza, aceptaron tierras, castillos y títulos a cambio de sus victorias militares. Pronto la orden tuvo propiedades por toda Europa y Oriente Medio. Esta red geográficamente dispersa les permitió adoptar otro papel influyente: ejercer de banqueros de reyes y peregrinos.
  Para principios del s. XIV, los templarios habían acumulado tanto poder que el rey Felipe IV de Francia, ansioso por hacerse con su riqueza o temeroso de su poder, inició una campaña de persecución apoyado por el papa francés Clemente V. Mandó arrestar a todos los caballeros, acusó a muchos de herejía y confiscó sus propiedades. En 1314 murió quemado en la hoguera el último gran maestro francés.
  En Portugal, Dom Dinis siguió la tendencia iniciada en Francia disolviendo la orden en 1314, pero unos años después la restableció hábilmente como la Orden de Cristo, ahora bajo el control de la Corona. En gran parte, la riqueza de la orden fue lo que permitió al príncipe Enrique el Navegante (gran maestro de 1417 a 1460) financiar la Era de los Descubrimientos. En el s. XVI, la orden entró en una fase más humilde con João III, que la orientó hacia deberes monásticos. En 1834, con la disolución de los monasterios, las tierras de la orden fueron confiscadas, aunque la orden sigue, hasta cierto punto, viva: el Gran Maestro de la actualidad es el presidente portugués.
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conversations.value: Autor-coordinador; Lisboa y alrededores La admiración que desde hace años Regis profesa al vino, las costas escarpadas y la música conmovedora lo convertían en una presa fácil para Portugal; un país que ha recorrido ampliamente durante la última década. Entre sus recuerdos favoritos de los viajes más recientes destaca tomar prestada la furgoneta VW de un amigo para explorar las playas salvajes y las carreteras secundarias de las afueras de Lisboa; charlar con pastores en pleno monte, cerca de Manteigas; escuchar fado vanguardista en Lisboa, y darse un festín de sabrosos percebes en el Algarve. Regis ha escrito más de 40 guías para –incluidas las tres últimas ediciones de Portugal– y sus artículos y ensayos de viajes han aparecido en Los Angeles Times y el Chicago Tribune, entre muchas otras publicaciones. Vive en Brooklyn, Nueva York. Regis también ha escrito las secciones Puesta a punto, Comprender Portugal y Guía práctica.
  El Algarve; el Alentejo Asidua de Portugal, hace más de 20 años que Kate recorrió el país cargada con su mochila y se enamoró de la campiña alentejana, del marisco del Algarve y de la hospitalidad portuguesa. Atraída por el lenguaje del fado, regresó para aprender portugués. Para esta edición, Kate ha hecho bodysurf por el Algarve, se ha 'mezclado' con los megalitos, ha recorrido a pie partes de la Costa Vicentina y ha consumido algunos (kilos) de dulces de convento. Publica con regularidad en medios australianos e internacionales. Para saber más sobre Kate, visítese www.katearmstrong.com.au.
  Oporto, el Douro y Trás-os-Montes; el Minho Nacida en Croacia y residente en Nueva York, la escritora Anja Mutić mantiene un intenso romance con Portugal desde hace casi una década. Durante su primera visita, en el 2005, se enamoró del país; en el segundo, en el 2006, conoció a su compañero de vida y de viajes, y desde entonces ha regresado al país varias veces para visitas cortas o estancias más prolongadas. Anja ha cubierto mil y un rincones de Portugal para varias publicaciones pero su debilidad es el norte; para ella Oporto es una de las ciudades más conmovedoras del planeta. Para saber más sobre Anja, visítese www.everthenomad.com.
  Estremadura y el Ribatejo; las Beiras Aunque Andy es de Australia, su bisabuelo emigró a Oporto en el s. XIX y para esa parte de su familia, Portugal sigue siendo un hogar. Por ello Andy visita el país con frecuencia desde que era un niño; y ahora que vive en España, todavía lo hace más a menudo, solo tiene que cruzar la frontera. Es autor y coautor de varios títulos y de otras guías de viajes.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Many sites (including the ancient sites in Athens) offer free entry on the first Sunday of the month, with the exception of July and August. You may also gain free entry on other locally celebrated holidays, although this varies across the country.
  At many of the party resorts catering to large budget-tour groups, spiked drinks are not uncommon; keep your hand over the top of your glass. More often than not, the perpetrators are foreign tourists rather than locals.
  In July 2009 Greece brought in antismoking laws similar to those found throughout most of Europe. Smoking is now banned inside public places, with the penalty being fines placed on the business owners. Greece is home to some of the heaviest smokers in Europe, so it is a challenge for these laws to be enforced and they are often imposed in only a nominal way in remote locations where proprietors fear they would lose business.
  There are several mobile service providers in Greece, among which Panafon, Cosmote, Vodofone and Wind are the best known. Of these four, Cosmote tends to have the best coverage in remote areas. All offer 2G connectivity and pay-as-you-talk services for which you can buy a rechargeable SIM card and have your own Greek mobile number. If you're buying a package, be sure to triple-check the fine print. There are restrictions on deals such as 'free-minutes' only being available to phones using the same provider.
  The use of a mobile phone while driving in Greece is prohibited, but the use of a Bluetooth headset is allowed.
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conversations.value: The bus network is comprehensive. All long-distance buses, on the mainland and the islands, are operated by regional collectives known as KTEL (Koino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion; www.ktel.org). Details of interurban buses throughout Greece are available by dialling 14505. Bus fares are fixed by the government and bus travel is very reasonably priced. A journey costs approximately €5 per 100km. With the exception of towns in Thrace, which are serviced by Thessaloniki, all the major towns on the mainland have frequent connections to Athens. The islands of Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos can also be reached directly from Athens by bus – the fares include the price of the ferry ticket.
  Most villages have a daily bus service of some sort, although remote areas may have only one or two buses a week. They operate for the benefit of people going to town to shop, rather than for tourists, and consequently leave the villages very early in the morning and return early in the afternoon.
  It's best to turn up at least 20 minutes before departure to make sure you get a seat – buses have also been known to leave a few minutes before their scheduled departure.
  You can board a bus without a ticket and pay on board, but on a popular route or during high season, you may have to stand.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Add another sentence about KTEL.
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conversations.value: The bus network is comprehensive. All long-distance buses, on the mainland and the islands, are operated by regional collectives known as KTEL (Koino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion; www. ktel. org). Details of interurban buses throughout Greece are available by dialling 14505. Bus fares are fixed by the government and bus travel is very reasonably priced. A journey costs approximately €5 per 100km. 
  Every prefecture on the mainland has a KTEL, which operates local services within it and to the main towns of other prefectures. With the exception of towns in Thrace, which are serviced by Thessaloniki, all the major towns on the mainland have frequent connections to Athens. The islands of Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos can also be reached directly from Athens by bus – the fares include the price of the ferry ticket. 
  Most villages have a daily bus service of some sort, although remote areas may have only one or two buses a week. They operate for the benefit of people going to town to shop, rather than for tourists, and consequently leave the villages very early in the morning and return early in the afternoon. 
  It's best to turn up at least 20 minutes before departure to make sure you get a seat – buses have also been known to leave a few minutes before their scheduled departure. 
  You can board a bus without a ticket and pay on board, but on a popular route or during high season, you may have to stand.
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conversations.value: Central Greece Having studied history and fine arts, Kate headed to Greece aeons ago to view a kouros, and fell in love with the country. The Pythia at Delphi told her she'd return; she has, frequently. For this edition she climbed rock pinnacles at Meteora and tackled donkey paths in the Pelion. She devoured kilos of seafood, several sheep, thousands of kilometres and was constantly astonished by the Aphrodite-style she received mid-Greece crisis.
  Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael's Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deckhand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on guides to Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii.
  Northern Greece Anita is a travel journalist, editor and freelance copywriter. Formerly a digital editor at 's London office, she flew the coop to write the world. As well as , Anita writes for CNN Travel, Rough Guides, BBC Travel, Escapism and more, especially about the Balkans and Eastern Europe, adventure and wildlife travel. She's never happier than when roaming Soviet-era ruins or researching macabre folklore. Check out more of her writing on www.anitaisalska.com. Anita also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter.
  Peloponnese The product of a Classical education and a Hellenophile since discovering Myths and Legends of Ancient Greece at the age of five, Anna has been coming back to Greece repeatedly since a memorable school trip back in 1997 to explore ancient ruins, hike its mountains and dive in the Aegean. She was thrilled to return to the myth-rich Peloponnese to explore its furthest corners and firmly believes that southern Mani is one of the most remarkable places on earth. Anna also wrote the Ancient Greek Culture chapter.
  Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in 1974. Since then he has been over 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly-caughtcalamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people of Greece who despite unimaginably difficult times remain among the friendliest on the planet.
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Many thanks to Kate Armstrong, Ted Bonar, Bill Brockschmidt, Joe Cimperman, Lisa DiChiera, Lea Dooley, Jim DuFresne, Ruggero Fatica, Julie Lange, Alex Leviton, Kari Lydersen, Zora O'Neill, Keith Pandolfi, Betsy Riley and Neil Anderson, Tamara Robinson, Amy Schwenkmeyer, Susan Hayes Stephan, Andrea and Greg Thomson and Karen and Don Zimmerman. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world's best partner-for-life, who indulges all my hare-brained, pie-filled road trips.
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conversations.value: Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp76-7, pp256-7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.Cover photograph: Glade Creek Grist Mill, Babcock State Park, West Virginia; Danita Delimont/AWL.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the last five paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Many thanks to Kate Armstrong, Ted Bonar, Bill Brockschmidt, Joe Cimperman, Lisa DiChiera, Lea Dooley, Jim DuFresne, Ruggero Fatica, Julie Lange, Alex Leviton, Kari Lydersen, Zora O'Neill, Keith Pandolfi, Betsy Riley and Neil Anderson, Tamara Robinson, Amy Schwenkmeyer, Susan Hayes Stephan, Andrea and Greg Thomson and Karen and Don Zimmerman. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world's best partner-for-life, who indulges all my hare-brained, pie-filled road trips.
  Many thanks to: Christina Stone-Millan, Meredith Stone, Rich Tyson, Beth Kracklauer, Gabriela Gonzalez, Waverly Duck, Katie Trainor, Brandon del Pozo, Michael LoBianco, Robbi Kearns and Michael Grosberg. Also thanks to generous and kind Filona Ryan, Matt the tow-truck guy, and Bill and Melissa of Bird's Towing. And sort of thanks to the inhospitable residents of Tabernacle-Chatsworth Road: I guess that 5-mile walk was good for me.
  Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp76-7, pp256-7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.Cover photograph: Glade Creek Grist Mill, Babcock State Park, West Virginia; Danita Delimont/AWL.
  The South, Florida Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men's Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock 'n' roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Now he lives outside the country, it's fair to say he immensely enjoyed gorging on Nashville hot chicken, Memphis BBQ, craft beer out the wazoo and various other unmentionables on his voyage through the Southern US. This is Kevin's 35th guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).
  New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania; Washington, DC & the Capital Region A Hoosier by birth, Regis grew up in a sleepy riverside town where he dreamed of big-city intrigue. He's lived all over the US (including New York City, San Francisco, Los Angeles and New Orleans), and has crossed the country by train, bus and car while visiting remote corners of America. Favorite memories from his most recent trip include crab feasting on Maryland's eastern shore, hiking through striking state parks in west Texas, catching music jams in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia and going eye-to-eye with wild horses on Assateague Island. Regis has contributed to more than 50 titles, including New York City and Washington, DC.
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conversations.value: Regis has contributed to more than 50 titles, including New York City and Washington, DC. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world's best partner-for-life, who indulges all my hare-brained, pie-filled road trips.
  Many thanks to: Christina Stone-Millan, Meredith Stone, Rich Tyson, Beth Kracklauer, Gabriela Gonzalez, Waverly Duck, Katie Trainor, Brandon del Pozo, Michael LoBianco, Robbi Kearns and Michael Grosberg. Also thanks to generous and kind Filona Ryan, Matt the tow-truck guy, and Bill and Melissa of Bird's Towing. And sort of thanks to the inhospitable residents of Tabernacle-Chatsworth Road: I guess that 5-mile walk was good for me.
  Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp76-7, pp256-7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.Cover photograph: Glade Creek Grist Mill, Babcock State Park, West Virginia; Danita Delimont/AWL.
  The South, Florida Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men's Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock 'n' roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Now he lives outside the country, it's fair to say he immensely enjoyed gorging on Nashville hot chicken, Memphis BBQ, craft beer out the wazoo and various other unmentionables on his voyage through the Southern US. This is Kevin's 35th guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).
  New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania; Washington, DC & the Capital Region A Hoosier by birth, Regis grew up in a sleepy riverside town where he dreamed of big-city intrigue. He's lived all over the US (including New York City, San Francisco, Los Angeles and New Orleans), and has crossed the country by train, bus and car while visiting remote corners of America. Favorite memories from his most recent trip include crab feasting on Maryland's eastern shore, hiking through striking state parks in west Texas, catching music jams in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia and going eye-to-eye with wild horses on Assateague Island.Many thanks to Kate Armstrong, Ted Bonar, Bill Brockschmidt, Joe Cimperman, Lisa DiChiera, Lea Dooley, Jim DuFresne, Ruggero Fatica, Julie Lange, Alex Leviton, Kari Lydersen, Zora O'Neill, Keith Pandolfi, Betsy Riley and Neil Anderson, Tamara Robinson, Amy Schwenkmeyer, Susan Hayes Stephan, Andrea and Greg Thomson and Karen and Don Zimmerman.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first five paragraphs for this book.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Suki Gear, Cliff Wilkinson, Alison Lyall, Hilary Angel, Juan Flores, Joe Timko, Sarah Weinberg, Suzi Dennett and the good folks at the SPP Help Desk.
  Los Angeles is a city I love, full of people I love. LA is home. Still, it's never easy to dissect your own backyard, mostly because you usually know what you're missing. So thanks to Alma Lauer, Trisha Cole, Jessica Ritz, Nina Gregory, Burton Breznick, Tchaiko Omawale, Dan Cohn, Angel Payne, Christine Lazzaro, Liebe Geft, the folks at the Wende Museum, Michael McDowell, Alex Capriotti, and John Moore. Thanks also to all those wild seals, sea lions, dolphins and whales that keep us entertained in the water, and to the LP staff and my cohorts Sara Benson and Andy Bender.
  Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.
  Assisting Editors Katie ­Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Monique Perrin, Saralinda Turner
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: Assisting Editors Katie ­Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Monique Perrin, Saralinda Turner
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conversations.value: Provide the last four paragraphs.. Start with the sentence 'Assisting Editors Katie ­Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Monique Perrin, Saralinda Turner
  Disneyland & Orange County, San Diego & Around, Palm Springs & the Deserts Andy is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he's made it his own'.
conversations.from: assistant
conversations.value: Assisting Editors Katie ­Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Monique Perrin, Saralinda Turner
  Disneyland & Orange County, San Diego & Around, Palm Springs & the Deserts Andy is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he's made it his own. This native New Englander drove cross-country to work in film production, and eventually realized that the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). He writes the Seat 1A travel site for Forbes, and his writing has also appeared in the Los Angeles Times, in-flight magazines and over three dozen LP titles. Current obsessions: discovering SoCal's next great ethnic enclave, and photographing winter sunsets over the Pacific.
  North Coast & Redwoods, Northern Mountains Celeste's ancestors moved to Northern California in 1906 and this is the region she will always consider home. After 15 years in French Polynesia she now lives in the Pacific Northwest and was thrilled to head south to explore and imbibe the treasures of her old stomping grounds, hike snowy peaks, find petroglyphs in caves, be awed by redwoods and seduced by the wild coast. Find out more about Celeste at www.celestebrash.com.
  Napa & Sonoma Wine Country John A Vlahides co-hosts the TV series : Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris, with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is also a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d'Or, the international union of the world's elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, sings tenor with the Grammy-winning San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time biking SF and skiing the Sierra. For more, see JohnVlahides.com, twitter.com/JohnVlahides. Read more about Sara at lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first five paragraphs for the book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
  B Leanne Beattie, Chris Biles, Wendy Bolt, Muriel Boselli, Paul Bryant C David Chubb, Mary Collins D Bavo Deneckere, F Seth Frantzman G Robyn Galloway H Jennifer Horne, Malcolm Hornsby K Mira Kautzky, Andrew P Kirk, Yvonne Kwakkestijn L Tassilo Lang M Sabrina Magnabosco, John Margaritsanakis, Chiara Mealli, Jacquelien Meijer, Peter Mynors N Janet Nicolas P Devid Paolini R Ewan Ross S Tami Shellef, Massimo Stefani, Pamela Stokes T Emma Tikunova W R Wakefield, Claire Waysand, Laura Woodman
  My thanks to the many friends and passing strangers, both local and nonlocal, who have helped and advised me on my wanderings through the 'Great Island' over the years. They are too numerous to name, but I hope they have all been aware of my gratitude and affection.
  Cover photograph: Traditional Cretan Windmills, Ano Kera, Iraklio Province, Crete, Greece, Walter Bibikow/Corbis
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conversations.value: Cover photograph: Traditional Cretan Windmills, Ano Kera, Iraklio Province, Crete, Greece, Walter Bibikow/Corbis
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: Assisting Editors Kathryn Glendenning, Michala Green, Kim Hutchins, Andi Jones, Hazel Meek, Martine Power, Saralinda Turner
  Jennifer Bilos, Samantha Curcio, Hunor Csutoros, Mark Germanchis, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Matt Langley, Chris Lee Ack, Nic Lehman, Alex Leung, Corine Liang, Ross Macaw, Jared O'Loughlin, Piers Pickard, Matt Swaine, Samantha Tyson, the team at Textech
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Global Crossroad (  in USA 866-387-7816, in UK 0800-310-1821; www.globalcrossroad.com) Volunteer, internship and job programs in the Andes. Summer cultural immersion programs for 18- to 29-year-olds include language instruction, homestays, volunteer work and sightseeing.
  Global Volunteers (  in USA 800-487-1074; www.globalvolunteers.org; 375 E Little Canada Rd, St Paul, MN 55117, USA) Offers short-term volunteer opportunities helping orphans in Lima.
  HoPe Foundation (  084-24-9885, in the Netherlands 0413-47-3666; www.stichtinghope.org; Casilla 59, Correo Central, Cuzco) Provides educational and healthcare support in the Andes.
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conversations.value: Journey Latin America (  020-3432-1507; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk; 12 & 13 Heathfield Tce, Chiswick, London W4 4JE, UK) Cultural trips and treks in the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash and to Machu Picchu.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the last three paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Assisting Editors Kate Evans, Carly Hall, Helen Koehne, Anne Mulvaney, Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards
  Jennifer Bilos, Samantha Curcio, Mark Germanchis, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Matt Langley, Chris Lee Ack, Nic Lehman, Alex Leung, Corine Liang, Ross Macaw, Jared O'Loughlin, Piers Pickard, Matt Swaine, Samantha Tyson, the Team at Textech
  South Coast, Arequipa & Canyon Country An expat-Brit now living in Vancouver, Canada, Brendan first visited Peru as part of an epic South American traveling odyssey in the early 2000s; a trip that involved getting hailed on in Machu Picchu, getting lost in the middle of the Bolivian salt pans, and teaching local Uruguayans how to do the 'Madness dance' in Punta del Este. He has since covered numerous Spanish-speaking countries for including Cuba, Mexico, Puerto Rico and Spain.
conversations.from: human
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  New Zealanders, I have learnt, do not hike or trek, they 'tramp'. They do not have trails or routes; they have 'tracks'. My intention over the next four months is to 'tramp' at least nine 'tracks', described as 'Great Walks' in the marketing put out by DOC (Kiwi vernacular for the Department of Conservation). Already these words have become part of my everyday vocabulary. With a return air ticket from Auckland scheduled for the end of February, four months from now, I have plenty of time for the nine Great Walks and probably many lesser-known tracks as well.
  The crew casts off from the bucking pier and the refurbished old boat is tossed on the waves with the liveliness of a cork. Throwing up in the bowels of this boat would likely accelerate a chain reaction among the other queasy passengers, so I escape to the open-sided stern. Rain pours down so heavily that the horizonless view is solid water and it is impossible to tell whether I am gazing at the sky, rain or lake. I am soon decidedly wet, green-around-the-gills and tempted to put on my pack and jump overboard, to hell with the consequences.
  There are two kinds of trampers on the Milford Track: the so-called 'freedom' or independent walkers, and the guided walkers. Each group comprises a maximum of forty trampers, who commence the tramp simultaneously. Accommodation for the two groups on each of the three nights spent on the track is staggered some distance and some hours apart to minimise contact. The poorer freedom walkers, of whom I am one, share large dormitories with bunk beds. We use our own sleeping-bags, cook our own food, bring our own supplies and have no guide. In contrast, the wealthier guided walkers sleep in smaller shared rooms with beds and linen, have shower facilities and are served hot meals in lodges that are considerably bigger and more comfortable than the DOC huts. Of the eighty trampers on the boat, the guided trampers identify themselves by wearing identical yellow rain jackets, with large name tags on the front. Two guides fetch them hot cups of chocolate, trying to coddle their clients out of their collective misery.
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conversations.value: He thinks even longer, before laughing. 'The best is that New Zealand is still so incredibly beautiful.' The ferry leans to port as it turns against the strong tide, negotiating a narrow passage through Marlborough Sounds. He continues, more positively: 'I would like to emigrate here. New Zealanders are lucky; there is so much space here, so few problems. It is the land of the future.'
  I look forward to the North Island and meeting some of New Zealand's Maori. Apart from the Maori who returned my groceries in Te Anau, I have met none and seen few. Docking in Wellington is like entering another country. In contrast to the peacefulness of the little community of Picton, my introduction to the North Island is the hum of cars and the thumping of steel-belted tyres on a nearby flyover. Tall buildings cluster around the downtown core; residential suburbs are cantilevered out of the surrounding hills.
  In the kitchen at the backpackers lodge, there is no excited chatter of international destinations or exchange of useful information. Everyone concentrates intently on cooking his or her own meals. The place has the depressing feel of a rooming house. A sign pinned to a door states: 'If you ask the obvious at reception you will pay a ten cent fine'. I finger a dollar in my pocket, tempted to demand a discount for a dozen quick dumb questions. The entourage of apparently unemployable poms lounging around the reception desk dissuades me, saving us all the hassle.
  As the city winds down for the weekend, the bars fill with exhausted yuppies ready to blow off a week's steam. I do not want to head back to the depressing backpackers lodge, nor wander around Wellington on my own. It would be nice to meet some people, talk. Bracing myself, I walk into a smoke-filled bar with a deliberate if inexpert cool manner, but the smartly dressed men in pinstriped suits and women in skirts, lipstick and high heels are far too intimidating. No one says hello; I look out of place in my torn shorts, creased shirt and smelly sandals. In many places on the South Island I had worn the same grungy outfit and felt overdressed. Here, I feel not only underdressed but patently shabby.
  I skulk out of the bar within minutes of walking in and timidly amble down city streets, trying to find something useful to do. The noise, traffic, buildings and general bustle are overwhelming; being out of the bush, I am suffering withdrawal symptoms. Buzzing sounds at traffic lights signal when to cross, and the intrusion of being ordered like a robot, when to walk and when to stop, seems far from the serene, meditative isolation of a walk in the forest. I am sure, though, I would adjust to all these assaults on the senses if I were back in the city for any length of time. It's amazing how adaptable human beings can be.
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conversations.value: We follow the crowd of tourists the short distance along a smooth asphalt path to a small lighthouse. A signpost points in different directions with the distance to cities marked: Tokyo, Los Angeles, Sydney, Vancouver and London. Three tourists stand by the signpost happily mugging it up for the photographer.
  I look around for the English publican, almost expecting to see him sitting there quietly on his own, contemplating whatever it is that instigated his walk up the length of New Zealand. He is nowhere to be seen.
  Far out to sea, a cruise ship slowly passes by the northern tip of New Zealand, its sleek hull silhouetted dark against the sun reflecting off the shimmering ocean. Closer in, the waves of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea clash and dance dramatically. Immediately below is Cape Reinga, but the tourists do not seem to notice. While the lighthouse has an information plaque on it, there is no marker describing this most sacred of Maori sites.
  Staring down at the craggy crevices, I make out the pohutukawa tree clinging miraculously to the bare rocks. Waves surge and foam about its roots. It does not seem possible that an unprotected tree could survive amidst these exposed rocks, which are relentlessly hammered by the sea. Yet it has survived, not for a day, but for hundreds of years. Then I notice amongst the twisted tangle of rocks and roots the figure of Wayne Running Boots. He is bent on his knees, humbly proffering shells and feathers and cat's-eyes to the spirit tree.
conversations.from: human
conversations.value: Provide the first three paragraphs for the book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  For approximate prices on round-the-world (RTW) tickets, check the Transport chapter (Click here). Don't forget the budget carriers (see Click here) which offer deals year-round. Some airlines have mailing lists that will send you updates on flight prices and sales.
  Don't forget visas when working out your expenses. Sometimes they're free, but if you get a few they add up to a hefty total. Cambodia, for example, charges £18/US$30/A$35 for international flights, but Russian visas will set you back anything from £50/US$128/A$60, depending on how long you want to stay. Try to work out how long you'll stay so you can get the best-value visa, and avoid multiple-entry visas (see Click here) as they can push costs up.
  Skimp on insurance and it will come back to bite your bruised arse. A cheap policy is a waste of money and may not cover you for everything you'll be doing (see Click here). On a first trip you should pay more for a reasonably comprehensive policy so you don't have to worry before you bungee jump off a cliff or go hang-gliding. If you're a member of the Hostelling International (see Click here), you can get a 10% discount on insurance.
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conversations.value: If your wallet can handle it, Scandinavia has rugged wilderness such as Norway's spectacular fjords, or sophisticated cities including Copenhagen. Billed as the 'next big thing', the Baltics are ideal for finding your own haunts such as medieval Estonia and historic Lithuania.
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conversations.value: Anthony Ham's gap year started with a one-way ticket to Bangkok and ended with a motorcycle accident in Turkey. En route, he experienced a life-changing moment of clarity while sitting on the running boards of a Thai train and he decided to become a writer. After ten years living in Madrid, he has recently returned to Melbourne from where he makes frequent writing forays to Spain, Scandinavia and all corners of Africa.
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conversations.value: Provide the first five paragraphs for this book.
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conversations.value: Lonely Planet
  Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
  Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
  Masso, Walter Bertschinger, Chris Bourne, Erica Brennen, Nienke Coehoorn-buma, Johan Collberg, Henry Dare, Nick Dillen, Anton Krivtsun, Nelson Ricardo Da Silva Duarte, Deborah Schubert, John Soar, Marco Sommariva, Jason Stewart, Monique Teggelove, Rinus Van Hoogenhuizen, Tony Wheeler, Lance Wilson.
  On the ground, an epic 'Tak' to Søren Rose, Rune RK, Tue Hesselberg Foged, Toke Lykkeberg, Jens Martin Skibsted, Trine Wackerhaus, Peter Kreiner, René Redzepi, Rasmus Kofoed, Aaron Giles, Julie Sanders, Søren Knudsen Moller, Christina Catharina Friis Blach and Susanna Greve. Thanks also to the many locals who offered time, tips and humour along the way. At , many thanks to Jo Potts, Imogen Bannister, Sally Schafer, Darren O'Connell, Laura Stansfeld, Kirsten Rawlings, Andy Symington, Herman So, Kim Hutchins and Andi Lien.
  Heartfelt thanks to Tom Masters for honouring his gentleman's agreement, to Solarn Solmunde, Jon Tyril, Ken in Eiðí, Johan in Saksun, Sigrid & Wieland in Viðareiði, Árant Hansen in Gøta, Gert and friends in Tvøroyri and to the impromptu 'welcoming committee' in Skarvanes. And above all, never-ending thanks to my parents, sibling and beloved wife Danielle Systermans without whose love and constant assistance I wouldn't have the astonishing opportunities that make my life so blessed.
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conversations.value: Heartfelt thanks to Tom Masters for honouring his gentleman's agreement, to Solarn Solmunde, Jon Tyril, Ken in Eiðí, Johan in Saksun, Sigrid & Wieland in Viðareiði, Árant Hansen in Gøta, Gert and friends in Tvøroyri and to the impromptu 'welcoming committee' in Skarvanes. And above all, never-ending thanks to my parents, sibling and beloved wife Danielle Systermans without whose love and constant assistance I wouldn't have the astonishing opportunities that make my life so blessed.
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conversations.value: Provide the last four paragraphs.
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conversations.value: Cover photograph: Rape field, red house and forest, Kullaberg, Skåne, Anders Blomqvist/ Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.
  Ross Butler, John Carney, Hunor Csutoros, Samantha Curcio, Mark Germanchis, Liz Heynes, Matt Langley, Chris Lee Ack, Nic Lehman, Corine Liang, Ross Macaw, Douglas McClurg, Piers Pickard, Lachlan Ross, the team at Textech
  Norway Anthony fell in love with Norway the first time he laid eyes on her and there aren't many places in Norway he hasn't been. His true passion is the Arctic north whether dog-sledding and spending time with the Sámi around Karasjok or drawing near to glaciers and scouring the horizon for polar bears in the glorious wilderness of Svalbard. When he's not travelling for , he lives in Madrid and writes for magazines and newspapers around the world.
  Sweden Becky has travelled in Sweden since the age of two. She's constantly amazed that no matter how often she visits, she still finds things she's never seen before, whether it's an underground cafe in Södermalm or a Viking-era stone ship hidden away in the forest. Becky's favourite things about Sweden include fried herring and saffron ice cream (not together), the art of John Bauer, the diaries of August Strindberg, the films of Ingmar Bergman, the hiking trails of Norrland and the little red huts everywhere. She also writes about the Pacific Northwest for. Becky lives in Portland, Oregon.