human
Where shall we go first, Paul?
gpt
I don't know, sir; I think I shall be interested wherever we go. This is a big city--isn't it?
human
Its population is hardly more than half of what it was in the days of its greatest prosperity. In the days of Charles V. it is said that twenty-five hundred vessels were frequently seen at one time in the river. It had two hundred thousand inhabitants, and was then the richest and most thriving commercial city in Europe. You perceive that this long line of quays affords plenty of wharf room. Indeed the name of the city is said to be derived from a Flemish phrase, '_aen't werf_,' which means on the wharf, or on the quay.
gpt
Mr. Motley tells another story about its name. He says the people claim that the city is very old, and that a giant by the name of Antigonus, established himself on the river at this place, and set up a kind of custom-house. He required half the merchandise of those who went up the river. He used to cut off the right hands of those who attempted to smuggle, and throw them into the river. In this way _Hand werpen_, or hand throwing, came to be the name of the place,
human
I suppose that story is as true now as it ever was. But where shall we go?
gpt
I want to get a little nearer to that Cathedral,
human
That is really the most noted thing in Antwerp, and we will walk up there; and I think we shall be able to see the pictures on the church, which are required to produce an income. The Cathedral used to be open till one o'clock, free to the public, but the curtains were carefully drawn over these great works of art; after this hour visitors were admitted upon the payment of one franc, and the pictures were exhibited. Doubtless the same regulation is in force now.
gpt
Everything in Antwerp is Rubens, said the doctor.
human
The people believe in him still, and almost worship his memory.
gpt
Why should they? He was only a great painter--was he?
human
He was more than that: he was quite distinguished as a statesman and a diplomatist. He was ambassador to England, Holland, and other countries. His celebrity as an artist, and his influence with the crowned heads of several nations, caused him to be regarded with deep interest by the people. He lived in a splendid mansion, for the immense income which he derived from his pencil enabled him to support an elegant establishment. He had a great number of pupils, and at one period in his career they painted no inconsiderable part of his pictures. He had orders from all the crowned heads of Europe, and in many of his works he could only make the designs and give the finishing touches to them. He was very industrious, and painted rapidly, as he must have done to produce so many pictures.
gpt
He humbugged his customers then--didn't he?
human
His assistants did only the heavy work, while Rubens furnished the design, and gave the work its finishing touches. The celebrated sculptors do not perform all the drudgery of chiselling out a statue. Wherever you go in Antwerp, you will hear of Rubens. You will find his works in all the galleries, you will visit his house in the Rue Rubens, his pictures will be shown to you in every church, and you will see his tomb in St. Jacques.
gpt
They have Rubens on the brain, as we should say at home,
human
Yes, and they have it badly. From this point you have a good view of the Cathedral,
gpt
The steeple is very handsome. It is of the most beautiful and delicate workmanship you will see.
human
I should think it would blow down.
gpt
It is banded together with a framework of iron, and the stones are held together with copper bolts.
human
How high is it?
gpt
There you have me, Paul! I don't know. In Murray's Guide-Book it is set down at four hundred and three feet. The man up in the tower there says it is four hundred and sixty-six. Other authorities put it at less than four hundred. My guide assured me it was one hundred and forty-seven French metres in height; but this, reduced to English measure, would give four hundred and eighty-three feet. My own idea is, that Murray is right,
human
What's this?
gpt
That's a draw-well. It is the handiwork of Quentin Matsys.
human
I don't know him.
gpt
He was a blacksmith until he was twenty years old, when he fell in love with the fair daughter of a painter. The story goes that the father would not permit his daughter to marry any man that was not an artist, and the blacksmith abandoned his anvil for the easel. He had a genius for art, and soon painted better than his masters. He won his bride, and achieved a great reputation in his new art. The picture of The Misers, which you saw at Windsor Castle, was executed by him.