 to lie, to offer bribes, to grovel in order to be successful in their lives. I fear the arbitrary rule of bureaucrats and police, who are not accountable to the people, and who are gradually turning Kazakhstan into an authoritarian state."</p>

<P>I was sitting next to Petrushova's husband as she spoke. "This will really make them angry," he whispered. "Will that make it worse for her?" I asked. "No! No! This is what they need to hear," he replied.</p>

<P>That brought me back to earlier years, when Pe