nost—more than all the other weapons of the Cold War—that brought the communist system crashing down. And however sad the revival of despotism across so much of the former Soviet empire may be, it is heartening that people such as Petrushova have not lost their voice.</p>

<P>More recently, I spent several months covering the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. In 2002, the West Bank ranked at the top of CPJ's list of the "worst places to be a journalist" based on the number of documented attacks on the pre