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Re: [ARSCLIST] Can Magnetic Tape Be Frozen?



Hi Lance,

The Image Permanence Institute Media Storage Quick Reference
(http://www.climatenotebook.org/MSQR/MSQR_home.html) says:

[Acetate tape:] COLD [i.e. 40 degrees] is recommended because risk of lubricant
separation is considered to be less likely than acetate base degradation. If
the A-D Strip reading is 2 or greater, tape should be stored at the FROZEN
condition and copied as soon as possible.

[Polyester tape:]  COOL [54 degrees] is consistent with ISO recommendation for
50% max. RH. COLD may cause lubricant separation with some tape formulations.


Rick Taylor
Graduate Student
Kilgarlin Center for the Preservation of the Cultural Record
School of Information
University of Texas at Austin
rtaylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


Quoting "Watsky, Lance" <lwatsky@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:

> This is being posted for Beth Delaney, Nederlands Institute for Sound and
> Vision
>
> "Can anyone tell me if it is acceptable to freeze magnetic sound film?  I
> don't seem to find in any literature that this is not a good idea. Often the
> literature states that it is recommended to "freeze acetate film", not
> differentiating between acetate image material and acetate magnetic sound
> film."
>
> I personally believe that it is probably not recommended, but I wanted to
> check with the ARSC folks, before responding back to Beth.
>
> Thanks,
> Lance Watsky
> Preservation & Media Specialist
> The Georgia Archives
> 5800 Jonesboro Road
> Morrow, GA 30260
> 678-364-3764 (phone)
> 678-364-3860 (fax)
> lwatsky@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> www.GeorgiaArchives.org
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
> [mailto:ARSCLIST@xxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Jack Raymond
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 9:14 AM
> To: ARSCLIST@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] LP Groove Repair
>
>
> Eric Jacobs wrote:
>
>  > I have a 1963 LP which has a deep gouge - it looks like the needle had
> been
>  > dropped very hard, leaving a pit in the record that is 2.5 grooves wide.
>  > Depending on how I set the anti-skate, I get one of two effects: (a) the
>  > stylus skips and will not continue past the gouge or (b) the stylus jumps
> a
>  > groove, skipping 1.8 seconds of music.  I've looked at the groove under a
>  > 150x microscope, and it appears that the gouge is 0.010" deep.  For the
>  > really curious, I might try to photograph the damage.
>  >
>  > Does anyone have any experience on how to span this gouge?  Any
> conservation
>  > techniques for filling such damage just so to make the rest of the
> grooves
>  > playable?  Or am I just outta luck on this one.  I have a steady hand and
>  > good optics/magnification.
>
>
> Here is a method that works well for repairing digs on 78s, and you might try
> it
> on your LP:  Place the record under a strong light.  Squeeze a drop of
> Elmer's
> Glue-All onto a piece of cardboard.  Dip the point of a needle into the glue
> to
> pick up a tiny bead of glue and -- using a magnifying glass -- transfer the
> glue
> to the pit in the record.  Repeat until the pit is filled.  Let it dry.
> Apply
> more glue if necessary.  Then, when completely dry, carefully shave the glue
> flat with a razor blade.  Play the record with a light stylus and with no
> anti-skate pressure.  The stylus will etch a new groove, after which stylus
> pressure can be returned to normal.  The nice thing about this method is that
> it
> is reversible:  the glue does not bond tightly to the surface and can be
> removed
> easily.
>
> -- Jack Raymond
>


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