"6% isn't ""too high"" in terms of market rates at the moment, however it's a very subjective question whether it's too high for you. The real question to determine is if paying 6%, can you make more than 6% return (to cover the costs plus your profit)? As for a rule of thumb, there's none I know of, however your best bet is to take the time to model it in Excel (not difficult).  It's different for each portfolio or investment. Something with a high standard deviation of returns is already high risk, adding margin to it only makes it worse.  So, long story short is that, ""it depends""."


"Paypal has an account called ""micropayments"" for those who have a lot of transaction under $10 with ""better"" commission structure, 5%+5c per transaction (rather than 2.9% + 30c with regular merchant accounts)"


> DC, Dallas, Boston and Denver   DC & Boston too expensive, Dallas too suburban. Denver has urban core and walkable neighborhoods, plus super high quality nature nearby.  Technically, Dallas is improving a lot with DART etc, but it's still pretty sprawly.


"There's no objective definition of what your house is worth between sales.  If you sell it for $107K, then that's the current functional definition of its worth.  There is not ""extra"" money to be had because you sold it for less than it was worth.  If the buyer is able to flip it for more, then the value of the house effectively went up and he will pocket the difference when he sells it. EDIT This turned out to be unexpectedly controversial, so let me be more precise in my answer.  I think this is important because it seems like many people misunderstand equity and how it figures (or doesn't) into the value of their home, which then leads to significant confusion and errors in what's many people's largest single investment. At any given time there are several possible ways to put a dollar value on your home.  A non-exclusive list that includes: Some of these obviously are more ""official"" than others. It would not be strange for these different values to vary by quite a bit at any given time. (This is what I meant in my original answer when I said there's ""no objective definition of what your house is worth between sales."") The interesting thing - and what I meant in my original answer when I wrote ""current functional definition of its worth"" - is that none of these factor directly into the transaction that the OP described of selling his house except for the last.  Using the numbers from the OP's example, that means the $107K.  Wherever the OP got the number $155K (either from one of the options on my list above or somewhere else), it won't be directly part of the sale between him and his friend. (For completeness, with a nod to Eric's comments on my original answer, some of these numbers may indirectly influence the sale.  For example, the buyer typically won't be able to get a mortgage for a value greater than the appraised value of the house, and so that might influence what he's willing and able to bid.  There may also be tax consequences if the price is artificially low, like, say, a gift.  As further expounded below, however, that's not directly relevant to answering the OP's stated question.) Now, the OP seemed to believe that there is an ""extra"" $48K in cash up for grabs in this scenario.  That comes from the $155K value that the OP claims his house has and the $107K price of the actual proposed sale.  This is a complete misconception.  When the buyer and seller sit down at closing and the title agent sums up who owes and who receives cash in this transaction, the $155K ""theoretical"" value will not enter into the calculation and therefore no one will pocket it. Subsequently, however, after the buyer takes possession, he may sell it.  If it's true that he ""got a deal"" on the transaction at $107K, then he maybe able to flip it and turn a profit.  But if that happens, it will be in a completely separate, subsequent transaction. Even if you look to this hypothetical second sale, however, the $155K doesn't really figure.  The new owner will have to find his own buyer, and they will have to agree on a price.  That might happen to be $155K, but there's no real reason to believe that it will or it won't."


"In theory, the term of the bond does not affect the priority.  It does not matter whether a ""Junior Subordinated Debenture"" is due in one year or sixty, it is still lower priority than a ""Secured Note"".  On the other hand, if the ""Secured Note"" is secured by something that is not worth as much as the note, the excess is an unsecured debt. In practice, the term of the bond has two effects: Short term debt holders are more likely to get out just before the company goes broke.  Sometimes their efforts to get out are exactly what causes the company to go broke!  (""Commercial paper"" is even more fickle than banks.) All other things being equal, and depending on the terms of the loan, some bonds get priority over bonds of the same type that are issued later.  For example, your first mortgage usually takes precedence over your second mortgage."


They represent two distict payment processing mechanisms that just happen to be available on one product. Rather like having dvi and hdmi on you laptop. Your account number and sort code relates to the bank account. Your long number, expiry and ccv relate to the card. It is perfectly possible and not uncommon to have two different cards on the same account, which would have their own card numbers etc. The BACS, CHAPS, DirectDebit and FasterPayments systems use the account numbers.  These transactions are practically irreversible and work through the interbank transfer system and should be considered 'direct money transfers' - electronic cash. The long digits are used by Mastercard, Visa, AmEx etc and go through their own payment systems.  These payments are 'indirect' and may or may not be reversible as the private payment network (visa etc) has some accountability. They work like electronic cheques. This is why debit card transactions can cause you to go overdrawn - you are writing a promise to pay from an account.  It is up to the bank to block the card if you have no money, vs a CHAPS payment that checks the money is there before moving it. It is easier (but still hard) to recover money lost through Visa fraud than BACS. Credit cards have only the long number etc. While savings accounts (non-checking accounts) have only account numbers. Depending on where you are different laws will likely cover debit card vs money transfer payments.  In the UK Direct debit guarantee is the most common protection on the BACS system, while standing orders and faster payments give you little legal power.  Debit cards will give you some protection because the payment system stands between you and the bank account, so if you didn't make the transaction you should be able to reclaim the money ('card not present fraud').  If you did make the transaction but the vendor failed to supply or goods were faulty then a Chargeback system exists where you may also be able to reclaim.  A bank transfer you make is irrecoverable and refund can only be claimed through court for faulty goods.


I wouldn't send it to India in the first place because their financial system is a bit sketchy, I would look into countries like Germany to send the money to you if you're looking to avoid high taxes with a very stable financial system


If you are comfortable picking individual stocks and can get into Robinhood you only need $1000 to get started. This means buying one stock of this, two stocks of that, etc. but it works.


It just absolutely isn't. And all FCF is Non-GAAP...  Why would it be? They aren't going to generate serious free cash flow until the growth slows down. That is so far in the future that the uncertainty completely masks any added granularity that you get by modeling out FCF by year.


I’m going to answer this because: Accounting books only reflect the dollar value of inventories. Which means if you look at the balance sheet of McDonalds, you will not see how many bags of French fries are remaining at their storage facility, you will only see the total value at cost basis.  Your requirement for noting the number of shares purchased is not part of the double entry accounting system.  When you transfer $10000 from bank to broker, the entries would be:  The bank’s name and the broker’s name will not appear on the balance sheet.  When you purchase 50 shares at $40 per share, the accounting system does not care about the number of shares or the price. All it cares is the $2000 total cost and the commission of $10.  You have two choices, either place $10 to an expense account, or incorporate it into the total cost (making it $2010).  The entries for the second method would be: Now your balance sheet would reflect: What happens if the price increases from $40 per share to $50 per share tomorrow? Do nothing. Your balance sheet will show the cost of $2010 until the shares are sold or the accounting period ends. It will not show the market value of $2500.  Instead, the Portfolio Tracker would show $2500. The most basic tracker is https://www.google.com/finance/portfolio .  Later if you finally sell the shares at $50 per share with $10 commission: Again, the number of shares will not be reflected anywhere in the accounting system. Only the total proceeds from the sale matters.


I'm guessing you're in the US? If so, yes, you can be prosecuted, but it's unlikely.  Fraud crimes are up to a prosecutor to pursue, there are a lot of fraud cases and bystanders take low priority, I'm assuming you're passively complicit, not actively.  If this is the case it's best to work with the bank to get your situation cleaned up and move on.  These days, most banks have dealt with wire fraud at least once, and they're familiar with cashiers check fraud.   A fair warning, the bank will report you, if they think you're involved, so if you are not a complete bystander, you may want to lawyer up.  So hopefully you didn't try to spend any of the fraudulent money and hopefully you have proof of a third party, because they will want a connection to that person (name/number/other) to file their report.


"According to your numbers, you just stated that you spend approximately $1500 in discretionary expenditures per month, yet are unable to save. I fully realize that living in a big city is usually expensive, but on your (presumably after-tax) salary, I think you can easily save a substantial portion of your income. As others have already noted, enforcing saving of a significant portion of your discretionary income is the most obvious step.  It's easy to say, but I suspect that if you are like most people who have difficulty saving, the psychological impact of quitting your previous spending habits ""cold turkey"" is likely to be very harsh, all the more so if you have an active social life.  You may find yourself becoming depressed or resentful at ""having"" to save.  You may lose motivation to work as hard because you might think that you're putting away all this money for the distant future, whereas you are young now and want to enjoy life while you can. It is in this context, then, that I looked at your other financial obligations.  Paying $1300/month to your parents is a lot.  It's over 20% of your after-tax salary.  You do not specify the reasons for doing this other than a vague sense of familial duty, but my recommendation is to see if this could be reduced somewhat.  If you can bring it down to $1000/month, that $300 would go into your savings, and you would psychologically feel a lot better about putting, say, $600 of your own discretionary income into savings as well.  Now you have, all told, about $1000/month of savings without severely curtailing your extra expenditures. But I would start with that $1500/month of luxury spending first.  And yes, you do need to view it as luxury spending.  The proper frame of mind is to compare your financial situation to someone who is truly unable to save because their entire income is spent on actual necessities:  food and shelter; their effective tax rate is 0% because they earn too little; and they usually find themselves in debt because they cannot make ends meet.  Now look back at that $1500/month.  Can you honestly say that you cannot afford to cut that spending?"


Other than the exchange risk, one more thing to consider is interest rate risk and the returns you are generating from your money. If it is lying around in a current account with no interest then it is rational to keep it where you intend to stay(US or AUS). Now if your money is working for you, earning interest or has been invested in the market then it seems reasonable that you should put it where it earns the maximum for you. But that comes with a rider, the exchange risk you may have to bear if you are converting between the currencies. Do the returns earned by your money cancel out the FX rates moving up and down and still leave you with a positive return, compared with what you would earn if your money was where you stayed. Consider the below scenarios Do evaluate all your options before you transfer your money.


"Are you working for a company that offers a Dependent Care Account? You may be able to withhold up to $5000/yr pre tax for care for you child.  If you cover more than half her expenses, she is your dependent. You can't ""double dip."" If she is your dependent, she cannot be the care provider for purposes of the DCAS, see Pub 503  top of p7 ""Payments to Relatives or Dependents."" How do you think a business would change your situation? The DCA is a small tax break, if you have no business now, this break isn't something that should drive this."


A lower statuory rate, relative to the statutory rates of other developed countries (every single one of which have statutory rates much lower than ours), incentivises firms to invest more money in the US and hire more American workers, and to make good business decisions, rather than forcing them to make decisions based on steep, arbitrarily set tax liability.


Some things you missed in your analysis:   How will financing change your insurance costs?  I.e. what is the difference between the insurance that you would buy for yourself and what they require?   Note that it is possible that your insurance preferences are more stringent than the financing company's.  If so, this isn't a big deal.  But what's important is to consider if that's true.  Because if you'd prefer to drive with only the legal minimum insurance and they insist that you have full coverage with no more than a $1000 deductible, that's a significant difference.   Remember that you don't have $22.5k for six years.  You have an average of $10.5k (($22.5k + -$1500)/2) for six years.  Because you make payments ($24k) throughout.  So you start with $22.5k and subtract $333.33 a month until you reach -$1500.  That neglects both investment gains and potential losses.   It's not the $333 payment that will freak out mortgage companies.  It's the $24k debt.  But that's offset by your $22.5k in assets at the beginning.  And the car of course counts as an asset, albeit at lower than its sale value.  I.e. from the bank's perspective, paying $22.5k for a car out of savings is almost as bad as borrowing $24k for a car.  Both reduce your net worth.   Watch out for hidden fees.  In particular, 0% interest can often change into higher interest under certain circumstances.   If we assume a 7% return for the six years, that's about $1400 the first year and less each year after.  Perhaps $4500 over six years.  But you aren't going to get a 7% return if you keep $24,000 in a bank account in case you have to pay off the loan.  Instead, you'll get more like 1%, less than inflation.  Even five year Certificates of Deposit are only about 2%, right around inflation (1.9% for previous twelve months).   You can't keep the $24,000 in a securities account and be sure that it will be there when you need it.  If the market crashes tomorrow, your $24,000 might be worth $12,000 instead.  You'd have to throw in extra money from elsewhere.  Instead of making $4500 at the cost of $1500, you'd have paid $25,500 for $12,000.  Not a good deal.  So for your plan to work, that $24,000 needs to be in an account that won't fall in value.   You either need to compromise on the idea of a separate account that is always there when you need it, or you have to accept rather low returns.   Personally, I would prefer not to have the debt and not to pay extra on the insurance.  But that's me.  The potential investment returns are not worth it to me.  If you give up the separate account, you can make a few thousand dollars more.  But your risk is higher.


So apparently ACH and eCheck are interchangeable. The confusion arises from PayPal's ambiguous use of terminology. According to this thread ( https://www.paypal-community.com/t5/Sending-money-Archive/how-do-i-change-from-a-echeck-to-an-instant-payment/td-p/92459 ) the payment process PayPal takes is a bit complicated, but if you try to send money to another person via PayPal:


In any case, for sure, the wages went up... a lot... and most likely wage increases are most of the 30% increase in costs.  As for consumers paying more, maybe they will get better quality, maybe they will be able to afford it now with extra income and maybe they will not raise the prices as they already have huge margins, people have choices and the real estate prices is only based on relative price of neighboring houses, used or new.


It depends on your situation. Take the job only if you really need the job and there's no job close to your experience and salary expectations. IMO $70K is not much in NYC given the cost of living there, even if you stay in Jersey City, NJ and take a train. However, it does depend on your lifestyle. Also, if HR is not willing to keep their commitment now, they generally won't keep any other commitments like negotiated perks as part of the job offer. However, sometimes you may have to compromise because of other factors that make the job desirable: the team, the work, and enthusiasm for the business.


SIPPs tend to have relatively high fees, so if you stick with simple stuff and never use the freedom to invest widely, you might be wasting money. At least an element of the fees tends to be a fixed amount rather than a percentage, so generally you also need a few tens of thousands of pounds to put in before they make sense. One thing that worries me slightly about SIPPs (I have one myself) is the fraud risk: what if a corrupt employee of the trustee company runs off with my money? I'm not sure that there's any compensation scheme that would cover that situation. If any of your old pension pots are in defined benefit schemes rather than money purchase, you should probably leave those ones where they are. Other than that I don't see any pitfalls.


Because money markets. Why federated is high too. Very flawed methodology and click bait. MM clients (typically big corporates) move in and out all the time as MM funds provide liquidity solutions. Goldman has one of the largest corporate cash franchises. So... net net this is one big nothing burger.


I agree with what you say about usage habits, and as for growth in membership, yeah, it's a case of the law of diminishing returns:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diminishing_returns  I'm really hoping that Tumblr becomes the network of choice, at least within the US. I don't know how Pinterest got so popular so fast, but whatever.  20  pinterest.com  45,843,052     23  tumblr.com  42,106,840    http://www.quantcast.com/top-sites-1


>If a road is not profitable, it won't be built, right? So all of those roads in the country, that go up mountains, that I love to travel on won't exist?  If enough people want it and are willing to pay to use it, it will be built. If not, why should I subsidize your hobby with my tax dollars?  >These corporations have the right to decide who gets to use the roads, right? You're all about the free market, but what if the guy who owns the road to my house jacks up the price or does a crappy job maintaining it? I just have to move?  Yes, although I would argue that basic infrastructure such as roads should have some level of price control. Not a completely free market but still better than what we have now.  >It will also be for-profit, which means it will cost more. You're willing to pay more to use a road because it's your choice as opposed to less for that road because someone made you pay for it? (as in, it will have to continue to turn a profit, even after it's been paid for.)  Not necessarily true. If private corporations can be more efficient than government, it doesn't have to cost more.


As long as doterra oils available online are 100% pure, not only do they have a therapeutic value but can be quite beneficial to your health as well. So, make sure you always look more 100% pure essential oils.


no interest expense (no debt in the capital structure) and an income tax benefit is one possible scenario. you determine this through the financial statement by looking for the differences between the E and EBIT in those calculations (interest and taxes).   of course, extraordinary items and discontinued operations could also be present, and result in the difference noted.


>“There must be some way to make us whole,” Lowe told Variety. “We know we have to prove the value we deliver and, at that point in time, where we’re delivering value to studios and theaters, we can work together with them in a constructive manner so that everybody makes more money.”  This reasoning sort of fascinates me. His strategy is to hope that, at some point, the businesses that his business relies on to exist will decide to share their profits with him. Is that something that happens??


Ya my dad worked on the audit team in the 70s that actually looked at the deal. He later used the connection to get an accountant job at McDonald's.   He read Ray's and the brothers letters as was helping as the impartial 3rd party to vet the audit and numbers.   The buyout fued was bullshit. The 1% was a contentious issue the brothers wanted and kept trying to include in the negotiations but eventually gave up on when Ray offered them a satisfactory deal in return.


What do you want to do after college? That drastically alters what I (and others) would recommend.   The one thing I don't see anyone recommending, but is probably the most important, is in three parts. 1) learn deeply about the field(s) you want to enter 2) learn about the firms who are the best in it 3) speak to people (start low in the hierarchy, move high, using e.g. LinkedIn to ID them).


I would like to get to meet these people who think rent-2-own is a great idea.  I see a river of profits.  I remember a friend of mine worked at a pawn shop.  He said people would end up paying $100 for something that was worth maybe $20 on eBay.


Invest in kids, not pension - they never inflate. Without kids your retirement will be miserable anyway. And with them you'll be good. Personally, I do not believe that that our current savings will be worth it in 30 years in these times.


Her claim to fame was saying citi might have to cut their dividend, but rated citi as a underperform in the $30s a share when other analysts had it at a sell earlier than that. She kept ratings like outperform and perform on lehman and bear.  She was quite the media machine more than anything.


[This comment](http://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4620597) was first posted in full on [HackerNews](http://news.ycombinator.com/) by [nlh](http://news.ycombinator.com/user?id=nlh) 14 hours ago.    Original comment: >I'm a huge Spotify fan. In fact, I love it so much that I haven't purchased a song from iTunes in months. That alone should speak volumes about their position in the industry - I can't be alone here, and that means that for some significant portion of people, money has stopped going to Apple for music and now goes to Spotify. > >But here's the thing -- Spotify is too cheap. Their service is amazing and far, far too inexpensive relative to what they provide. They provide a bulk of their service for free, and people like me who want a bit more pay $10 a month. > >To get access to 5,000 songs via iTunes would cost me (roughly) $5000 -- and people are willing to pay it. That's 500 months of Spotify (42 years!) subscription to generate the same amount of revenue. > >So while I agree that music licensing costs, particular for radio-like services like Pandora, need to go down to be more in line with broadcast rates, I don't think that's what's hurting Spotify here. I think they're providing far too much value for what they get paid.  ----  Internet justice, away!


Here is a deliberately simple example of Dollar Cost averaging: Day 1: Buy 100 shares at $10. Total value = $1,000. Average cost per share = $10.00/share (easy). Day 2: Buy 100 more shares at $9. Total value = $1,900. Average cost per share = $9.50/share (1,900/200). Notice how your average cost per share went from $10.00 to $9.50. Now instead of hoping the stock rises above $10.00 a share to make a profit, you only need it to go to $9.50 a share (assuming no commissions or transaction fees). It's easy to see how this could work to your advantage. The only catch is that you need buy more of a stock that is dropping (people might think you're crazy). This could easily backfire if the stock continues to drop.


From an India tax point of view your father can gift you unlimited amount of money and the transfer would be under Gift Tax act. As per the act there is NO tax on this transaction. I does not matter if you get yourself added into the joint account or not. From a US tax point of view, this transfer would come under gift tax, however in US the gift tax is applicable on the Donor [i.e. your father]. As your father is not a US Citizen the provisions are not applicable to him. Edit Under the liberalized remittance scheme, an individual can transfer upto USD 1 million every year. A CA certificate is required certifying that the taxes on the funds have been paid. Your Bank would be able to guide you on the exact process.


Has there been any studies that look into the opportunity cost of this war as well? We lost $1.07 trillion but how much would we have produced as a country had that money been spent on Infrastructure? I'm guessing that $1.07 trillion becomes the minority of the cost, when factoring everything in.


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The fact is that AA pilots (for now, anyway) make more than pilots from Delta, United, US Airways, etc. make for doing the exact same job.  How long can that continue, when most consumers simply choose the airline with the lowest fare?


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Insurance is to mitigate risk you can't handle yourself.  (All insurance, not just car insurance.)  The expected value of the insurance will always cost more than the expected value of your loss, that's how the insurance company makes money.  But sometimes the known fixed cost is better for your ability to sleep at night than the unknown (though likely lower) variable cost. If you were suddenly hit with a bill the size of your car tomorrow, would you be ok?  If so, then you can handle the risk yourself and don't need insurance.  If not, then you need the insurance. The insurance company sells thousands of policies and it's much easier to predict the number out of 1000 people that will get in an accident tomorrow than the chance that you specifically will get in an accident tomorrow.  So they can manage the risk by making a small amount of money from 999/1000 people and buying the other guy a new car.


"The answer is, unfortunately, along the lines of ""it depends"". It does depend a little on the bank - I've had a US bank account for years before moving to the US, and I didn't have an SSN or any status when I opened the account. What I did have however was an address in the US that they could send the statements to, and proof that I was living abroad (oh, and US citizen wife that had an account with the same bank). Not all banks will open a bank account for a foreigner with no status in the US, but it is generally possible. You will have to check with several banks and basically have paperwork showing your foreign address and proof of id (passport, possibly a drivers license as well)."


The other answers assumed student loan debt -- and for that, it's rarely worth it (unless your company only offers managed plans w/ really bad returns, or the economy recovers to the point where banks are paying 5% again on money market accounts) ... but if it's high rate debt, such as carrying a credit card debt, and the current rate of returns on the 401k aren't that great at the time, it would be worth doing the calculations to see if it's better to pay them down instead. If you're carrying extremely high interest debt (such as 'payday loans' or similar), it's almost always going to be worth paying down that debt as quickly as possible, even if it means forgoing matching 401k payments. The other possible reason for not taking the matching funds are if the required contributions would put you in a significant bind -- if you're barely scraping by, and you can't squeeze enough savings out of your budget that you'd risk default on a loan (eg, car or house) or might take penalties for late fees on your utilities, it might be preferable to save up for a bit before starting the contributions -- especially if you've maxed your available credit so you can't just push stuff to credit cards as a last resort.


"Which, if someone has been out of work for a while, may well be the unemployed one. After all rescuing someone from despair is a step towards nurturing loyalty.  For those who struggle with answering questions about why you have been unemployed for 2 years, people do like underdogs they can believe in. Nothing wrong with saying this is my dream job and you should pick me over others because I need it more and will fight harder to meet my goals for an employer that ""took a chance"" on me."


"> sofi  This is most definitely not what we're (I'm) talking about; to wit:       The loans tend to be debt for law school, business school and      medical school. And while these grad students carry a median      $77,000 in debt, they are also bringing in an average of $140,000      in salary a year. (*See correction below.) Their average FICO credit      score? 776. It's another sign of how the credit market is only open      to a select few.   This is ""privatizing the gains"".  The sub-prime student loan losses will be ""socialized""."


"It's actually really hard to know anything about how skilled your friends are, unless you have a lot in-depth work discussions with them and you are in the same field.  And then there is the ""My dad plays golf with the CEO"" kind of who-you-know"


Worse comes to worse, you can switch majors later.    Going to a 'target' school might make things easier, but I know people from my school (a rather un-prestigious school in Canada) who graduated and wound up at Goldman Sachs and Bridgewater...  If you have the drive and knack for it, you'll be ok.  But if you're doing it because you're not good at science, you'll probably wind up with a pretty average job...


Inflation will damage the value of those cash reserves. This will harm the company's value. (Other factors may or may not be harmed. or helped.) Borrowing costs may be related to inflation, but they're not directly tied. Inflation happens, in fact, when it's easy to borrow money and more money gets created than new economic activity. (Also, if a competitor really needs to raise money, they can also issue new equity. It's not all borrowing.)


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How many people do you know making minimum wage that are happy to work more than 40hrs simply because they love their job? I think it's more likely that they enjoy being able to afford enough food to live on. Which is completely different. Don't be so cruel and naive.


The T&C that comes with the card would usually tell you whether the card allows ATM withdrawal, though my experience with prepaid debit cards is that it usually does not. If that's the case, you have two options -


The black cab industry needed a shakeup for sure, but Uber's labour practices are terrible. You can't go around not giving employees the rights they deserve. And yes they are employees, just like Deliveroo and all the others are too.  Shitty labour practices should be stopped - that's what regulations are for - protecting consumers and employees.  If Uber started treating their drivers better I'd hope London would welcome them back. We'll see if that ever hapoens.


I could also see the promise to keep NAFTA with Mexico, as well as the new CETA (free trade agreement between Canada and the EU) being a draw. Plus the fact Canada's started flirting more with China about free trade in the face of NAFTA struggles, as well as Britain flirting about joining NAFTA if Brexit goes poorly. Trade negotiations are another way Amazon could get slammed that's beyond their direct control.  Also the fact that it would let Jeff slam Trump, instead of likely having Trump try to take credit, could have some personal appeal.  Don't know if it will be enough, but Canada has some real selling points; if Toronto wasn't refusing to give special tax considerations, they might have had this in the bag.


a. Depends on whether it is a gift (no tax, but need to file gift tax form against his lifetime exclusion) or a loan (in which case he needs to charge fair market interest, which he can forgive as a gift with no gift tax form, but for which will need to pay tax on the forgiven income. b. This is a definite possibility. Probably depends on the specific lender, but I would imagine this might be questioned, especially if there is an expectation of paying him back. c. Relationships. I would always avoid mixing family and finances in this way. Do you want your family gatherings to be tainted by owing him money? What if you fall on hard times? What if you go on a nice vacation instead of paying him back faster?


I work for a fund management company and we get our news through two different service providers Bloomberg and Thomson One. They don't actually source the news though they just feed news from other providers Professional solutions (costs ranging from $300-1500+ USD/month/user) Bloomberg is available as a windows install or via Bloomberg Anywhere which offers bimometric access via browser. Bloomberg is superb and their customer support is excellent but they aren't cheap. If you're looking for a free amateur solution for stock news I'd take a look at There are dozens of other tools people can use for day trading that usually provide news and real time prices at a cost but I don't have any direct experience with them


When you start investing makes a very large difference to the outcome, but that is on the time scale of what generation you were born into, not what week you choose to open your 401(k).  As you note in your last sentence, there is nothing that you can do about this, so there is no point in worrying about it. If you could successfully market time successfully, then that would make a difference even at smaller time scales.  But you probably can't, so there is no point in worrying about that either. As BrenBarn points out, your statement about not regaining their net worth until 2013 applies to someone who invested a lump sum at the 2007 peak, not to someone who invested continuously throughout.   By my calculation, if you started continuously investing in a broad market index at the peak (around Jun 4, 2007), you would have recovered your net worth (relative to investing in a safe instrument that merely kept up with inflation, a hard thing to find these days) around April 12, 2010.  I've done the computation on each business day because that is easier, so it might be slightly worse if do the periodic investment on each payday which is much more realist for a 401(k). (And of course if you need to preserve/recover you net worth in 3 years, you shouldn't be in stocks in the first place)


"Why the heck are they employing these poor people if they aren't making a profit from their services? Just ""giving"" people jobs seems suspect. It's more likely that employers simply need employees in order for their businesses to function."


Went to school off of broadway. I don’t know if you’re seriously interested but it’s not safe. I do not recommend even convincing yourself it will be okay.   When I was in school there were at least two to three shootings per semester within blocks of campus.   It’s not safe, not safe by a long shot.


If you're fiscally responsible, go ahead and use a megabank.  Honestly, in all of the horror story experiences I've seen where someone went into honest details, they were trying to skate by with pointlessly risky decisions at the extreme bottom end of the financial spectrum. Nearly all of the complaints boil down to overdraft fees for people who run their account down to less than $10 and then get upset when something unexpected happens.  For example, when banks re-order purchases from largest to smallest, so that users would have to pay a larger quantity of overdraft fees...that can literally only happen if you've tried to spend more than you have in the account. It's mathematically not possible for that to happen any other way. So yes, I think everyone can agree re-ordering is shitty, but those overdrafts are also 100% preventable by *not trying to spend more than you have*.  Most people just want to jump on the gripe train, and they aren't going to share the real details of their situation, if they even understand them.


The option commissions with IB for trading in the US market are between $0.25 to $0.70 per contract. However if you are looking to trade in Canada, where you are from, their option commission for Canada are $1.50 per contract (as you mention in your question). Note that each contract is for 100 shares, so if you wanted to trade the equivalent of 1000 shares, you would need to trade 10 contracts, so you would have to multiply the above commissions by 10 to get your final costs. (i.e. $2.50 to $7.00 in the US and $15.00 in Canada).


"And it does not cover normal battery performance degradation, so there's that. Chrysler had an ""unlimited powertrain warranty"" a few years ago but it had so many asterisks it really only benefited people who planned on keeping their cars forever, and even then only covered powertrain stuff."


"Look at a broader diversification. Something like: For physical gold, I'd look at a mix of gold coins and bullion. Study the pricing model for coins -- you'll probably find that the spreads on small coins make them too expensive. There are a few levels of risk with storing in a vault -- the practical risk is that your government will close banks in the event of a panic, and your money will be inaccessible. You need to balance that risk with the risk to your personal security that comes with having lots of gold or cash in your home. My recommendation is to avoid wasting time on the ""Mad Max"" scenarios. If the world economy collapses into utter ruin, we're all screwed. A few gold coins won't do much for you."


Don't be ridiculous. Or in fact, lets be ridiculous for a second. Why can't a software developer make $500k? It's still only a fraction of what one of the executives make.  Now, since realistically they won't get paid as much as you make it out to be, why is it so wrong for people to make a living wage? Why do we have to trumpet and pursue a race to the bottom in compensation? Why do you think that's ok? Is not fair for Americans and is not fair for the foreigners that are forced to come all the way to drive prices down by flooding the worker supply. They deserve as much pay as the Americans they're replacing but because they are looking for the better life and pay that they don't get they have to settle for a sub par pittance.  It's all just one sided. It's appalling that you can even pretend to be so indignant about it.


It’s a great concept. You skip the whole margin disaster in retail. Clothing etc. is mostly at a 200-300% and more margin because of risk nobody buys it after a while so hey can go down with the price for discounts. If you yourself sell it to the customer those 200-300% are now your profit. I only would run my own stores. The profit difference make it totally worth it setting up a store and hiring 20 people.


Where did you live?   There is no way in hell you made minimum wage in a top 5 by population city in the United States and had a comfortable life.  That is 1200 a month after taxes in California; 1200, which I make more in a week now, would rent you a studio apartment where I live.


In addition to the money-laundering, lifestyle, income tax, etc  issues discussed already in other answers, one other matter that  might concern the bank is whether that cash you are bringing in  to deposit is genuine currency or (some or all of) the bills  are counterfeit and you are using this mechanism to get them into  circulation.  Even if you withdraw a very large amount in cash from your bank, step out the door and come back just a few minutes later saying that you have changed your mind and want to put that money back into your account, there is still the question  as to whether the cash you have brought back is exactly the same as you took out or a substitution was made in the interim. I once needed a bank draft for $1000 and went to my bank to get it, taking with me a check made out to Cash for $1003 (the bank's fee was $3). The bank would not give me a bank draft in exchange for the check, or if I cashed the check right then and there and paid for the bank draft using the cash that the teller had just handed me. I had to tear up the check, write another one payable to the bank, and then I got my bank draft. As JoeTaxpayer says, it is a matter of paper trail. Additional matter added in edit: According to Wikipedia, because of the  Bank Secrecy Act of 1970, Many banks will no longer sell negotiable instruments when they are purchased with cash, requiring the purchase to be withdrawn from an account at that institution. which was exactly my experience.  Furthermore, even the banks that will still sell you a cashier's check or money order for cash must keep a Monetary Instrument Log (MIL) that records all such cash transactions for amounts between $3000 and $10,000, keep the records for at least five years, and produce it upon request of a bank examiner or auditor (and presumably upon subpoena by a district attorney or divorce lawyer). Cash transactions of $10,000 or over are, of course, reported to the IRS on Currency Transaction Reports.  In short, a paper trail exists for some time even for cash transactions quite a bit smaller than $10,000.


An order is not a transaction.  It is a request to make a transaction.  If the transaction never occurs (e.g. because you cancel the order), then no fees should be charged. will I get the stamp duty back (the 0.5% tax I paid on the shares purchase) when I sell the shares? I'm not a UK tax expert, but accorging to this page is seems like you only pay stamp tax when you buy shares, and don't get it back when you sell (but may be responsible for capital gains taxes).  That makes sense, because there's always a buyer and a seller, so if you got the tax back when you sold, the tax would effectively be transferred from the buyer to the seller, and the government would never collect anything.


Your current insurance, but at full price, is available to you via COBRA.  You can also look on your states exchange or the federal exchange for insurance.  You generally will not get your new company to provide money for COBRA or a policy not offered by your employer. But you can always ask. I have known of some companies that will provide money or vacation days to employees that get their insurance via TRICARE (for retired military). Also you will have to watch open seasons. When you start with the new company you have 30 days to join their program. If you don't signup in time, you have to wait for either a life event, or the next open season - which only happens once a year. If COBRA runs out before you get the new insurance in place you will have a problem. Note that open season may lead the start of the new policy by weeks or months.


... That'll run out before most of those 400000 who put deposits down get their cars.   EDIT: Look at the [current](http://insideevs.com/when-will-the-7500-us-credit-expire-for-the-tesla-model-3-and-everyone-else/) drawdown schedule for the $7500 credit. Now explain how the [25000-car-per-quarter](https://www.theverge.com/2017/5/3/15535276/tesla-earnings-report-2017-record-deliveries-model-3) Tesla plant is going to sell 400000 Model 3s before the credit's *gone*.  E2: Now consider that $7500 is a lot bigger percentage of the Model 3's cost than it is for the S and X. It could be make-or-break as to how 'affordable' the Model 3 is *for its intended audience*.


He probably doesn't expect you to know technical information about what he does, but you should almost certainly do  a fair amount of research to be fully aware of his role in the company, the mission of the company as a whole and the sort of needs he probably expects his assistant to fulfill.  Good luck!


"BPI would have won this lawsuit. This was not a ""spurious lawsuit"". LFTB is a quality beef product that brings very lean, high protein beef to a market that allows more consumers in the US to be able to buy and consume beef at a price point their budget will allow.    ABC misled consumers by putting out a one-sided piece that was highly sensationalized to grab ratings.   I have seen LFTB before it is blended with more coarsely ground, higher fat trim which is whay is used to make hamburger. It is beef. Pure and simple."


Exactly, expose the facts, and let people decide. There have been plenty of reports on the evidence around sugar, both real and fake. Some have chosen to ignore it. Some skip fake sugar. Some skip sugar entirely. That's why sodas have dwindled in market share and people have switched to sparkling or flavored waters. To a lesser effect, it's the same for fast food that's losing to places with higher quality ingredients.  None are near as disgusting as the oozy meat. That's a special level of awful quality.


For Mac it's definitely iFinance.


Perhaps there is no single formula that accounts for all the time intervals, but there is a method to get formulas for each compound interest period. You deposit money monthly but there is interest applied weekly. Let's assume the month has 4 weeks.  So you added x in the end of the first month, when the new month starts, you have x money in your account. After one week, you have x + bx money. After the second week, you have x + b(x + bx) and so on. Always taking the previous ammount of money and multiplying it by the interest (b) you have. This gives you for the end of the second month:  This looks complicated, but it's easy for computers. Call it f(0), that is: It is a function that gives you the ammount of money you would obtain by the end of the second month. Do you see that the future money inputs are given with relation to the previous ones? Then we can do the following, for n>1 (notice the x is the end of the formula, it's the deposit of money in the end of the month, I'm assuming it'll pass through the compound interest only in the first week of the next month):  And then write:  There is something in mathematics called recurrence relation in which we can use these two formulas to produce a simplified one for arbitrary b and n. Doing it by hand would be a bit complicated, but fortunately CASes are able to do it easily. I used Wolfram Mathematica commands: And it gave me the following formula:  All the work you actually have to do is to figure out what will be f(0) and then write the f(n) for n>0 in terms of f(n-1). Notice that I used the command FullSimplify in my code, Mathematica comes with algorithms for simplyfing formulas so if it didn't find something simpler, you probably won't find it by yourself! If the code looks ugly, it's because of Mathematica clipboard formatting, in the software, it looks like this:  Notice that I wrote the entire formula for f(0), but as it's also a recurrence relation, it can be written as:  That is: f(0)=g(4). This should give you much simpler formulas to apply in this method.


Another European financial ETF that you could sell short is the iShares MSCI Europe Financials Sector Index Fund (EUFN). It's traded on American exchanges, so it should be easier to access if you're in the United States. It is a relatively low-volume issue, however, so it may be difficult to locate shares to short, and the bid/ask spread could be a significant factor.


You can fairly simply make a spreadsheet in your favorite spreadsheet application (or in Google Docs if you want portability). I like to make an overview page that shows how much I take in per month and what fixed bills come out of that, then break the remaining total into four to get a weekly budget. Then, I make one page per month with four columns (one per week), with each row being a category. Sum the categories at the bottom, and subtract from your weekly total: voila, a quick reference of how much you can spend that week without going over budget. I then make a page for each month that lists what I bought and how much I spent on it, so I can trace where my money's gone; the category total is just a summation of the items from that page that belong in that category.  Once you have a system, stop checking your bank balance except to ensure your paycheck is going in alright. Use the spreadsheet to determine how much you can spend at any time. Then make sure you pay off everything on the card before the end of the month so you don't incur interest.


Pre tax insurance is not possible unless the emplyer provides hsa and do a payroll deduction. Obamacare is all post tax and you can do deduction if your expenses exceeds 10%of your income


Who runs the courts? Would you have multiple competing courts? Courts usually work on the principle that one party doesn't want to be there; how would that work in a nationless world? What happens when a private enforcement agency gets a monopoly and then wants your stuff?  States work because we have representation, political recourse if there's abuse of the system (in theory).  A 'private enforcement agency' sounds like a fast track to a protection racket.  And also i'd argue that response by the state 100% is what is stopping 99% of people, look at the London 'riots' a few years ago - bunch of kids realized they could get away with it if they all went and looted a place at once, repeatedly happened until the ringleaders got caught or turned in to the authorities.   What right would a private organization have to restrict my freedom in a stateless society? Where does it get the constitutional power? Everything would just devolve into constant warfare between groups - until a single group outperformed the others of course and boom you've got a government again.


In general you can withdraw money from an HSA by using the debit card that comes with most HSA accounts or writing yourself or your healthcare provider a check drawn on the HSA account. It is important that you keep receipts for any medical expenses that you pay with money from your HSA in case you get audited.


There are kind of two answers here: the practical reason an acquirer has to pay more for shares than their current trading price and the economic justification for the increase in price. Why must the acquirer must pay a premium as a practical matter?  Everyone has a different valuation of a company.  The current trading price is the lowest price that any holder of the stock is willing to sell a little bit of stock for and the highest that anyone is willing to buy a little bit for. However, Microsoft needs to buy a controlling share.  To do this on the open market they would need to buy all the shares from people who's personal valuation is low, and then a bunch from people whose valuation is higher and so on.  The act of buying that much stock would push the price up by buying all the shares from people who are really willing to sell.  Moreover, as they buy more and more, the remaining people increase their personal valuation so the price would really shoot up.  Acquirers avoid this situation by offering to buy a ton of stock at a substantially higher, single price. Why is Linkedin suddenly worth more than it was yesterday? Microsoft is expecting to be able to use its own infrastructure and tools to make more money with Linkedin than Linkedin would have before.  In other words, they believe that the Linkedin division of Microsoft after the merger will be worth more than Linkedin alone was before the merger.  This synergistic idea is the theoretical foundation for mergers in general and the main reason people use to argue for a higher price. You could also argue that by expressing an interest in Linkedin, Microsoft may be telling us something it knows about Linkedin's value that maybe we didn't realize before because we aren't as smart and informed as the people on Microsoft's board.  But since it's Microsoft that's doing the buying in this case, I'm going to go out on a limb and say this is not the main effect.  Given Microsoft's history, the idea that they buy expensive things because they have money to burn is more compelling than the idea that they have an insight into a company's value that we don't.


"Take a look at FolioFN - they let you buy small numbers of shares and fractional shares too.  There is an annual fee on the order of US$100/year.  You can trade with no fees at two ""windows"" per day, or at any time for a $15 fee. You are better off leaving the stock in broker's name, especially if you live overseas.  Otherwise you will receive your dividends in the form of cheques that might be expensive to try to cash.  There is also usually a fee charged by the broker to obtain share certificates instead of shares in your account."


Literal armageddon. Phasing it out will be hard enough but if you flipped a switch everything would probably go to zero. Even sub $30 a barrel for a year would create a tidal wave of worthless debt that would result in god knows what.


This is very interesting, and I am fully in support of the US moving to a single-payer system such as we have here in the UK, but I am a little confused. US costs are markedly higher than the second most expensive country, that's clear. However, by my reading of the data presented, it seems as though no distinction is made between the government paying for health care, and the individual paying for health care. Much of that 1.4t is coming out of the individual's pocket, rather than the insurance company's, and that for me is the crux of the whole issue.


According to my reading, the Trinity study says you can withdraw 4% a year for 30 years without exhausting your nest egg, not necessarily that it won't shrink. In most cases, your nest egg will indeed grow. But unfortunately you can't plan to leave no estate while simultaneously preparing for worst-case scenarios in case you happen to pick a bad year to stop working. You can run simulations based on historical data on sites like cFIREsim. And once you're retired, you could potentially increase your spending if simulations show that you're likely to leave behind a large estate. You also probably want to look into things like charitable remainder trusts.


Interesting. The real surprise here is preference. It seems not only do people but in person, they actually seem to mostly prefer it that way.   Most spending being offline isn't too surprising, especially if you count corporate purchasing. The average consumer spend most of their money on things like gas and food, two products not normally available online. Also, big purchases like cats and houses aren't online either. But companies also often don't ship online. Think about a building contractor. He goes to the contractor store in the morning before going to the job site. Or about the heavy manufacturer. A lot of steel manufacturers require the customer to speak to a sales rep or even to meet in person, depending on the size of the deal.


My company (30 people) is struggling with timezones as it is. We've got clients world-wide and if we didn't have east & west coast people as well as someone in Europe and a team in India, working with India, China, and Europe would be pretty exhausting.  If I were amazon, I'd definitely see value in picking another time zone.


Excel has two functions you can use: Your question has the CD with a APR and the savings account that mentions both APR and APY. So convert them both to APY to compare them. The savings account (2.27 APY) will return more money based on the numbers in your question (2.27% vs 1.56%) The previous part was the math part of the answer. The following takes into other considerations. For this case the Savings account will return a larger amount of money if the conditions don't change. The CD rate is guaranteed, but the savings account could change every business day. The savings rate could go up, or down. If you expect the savings account rate to rain higher than the CD you might not want to lock into the CD. If you expect the savings rate will drop then get the CD. Of course  there are penalties if you cash in the CD early.


Line one shows your 1M, a return with a given rate, and year end withdrawal starting at 25,000.  So Line 2 starts with that balance, applies the rate again, and shows the higher withdrawal, by 3%/yr.  In Column one, I show the cumulative effect of the 3% inflation, and the last number in this column is the final balance (903K) but divided by the cumulative inflation.  To summarize - if you simply get the return of inflation, and start by spending just that amount, you'll find that after 20 years, you have half your real value.  The 1.029 is a trial and error method, as I don't know how a finance calculator would handle such a payment flow. I can load the sheet somewhere if you'd like.  Note: This is not exactly what the OP was looking for. If the concept is useful, I'll let it stand. If not, downvotes are welcome and I'll delete.


The tax is depended upon state where you are registered and the salary paid. More here  If you employ contract you need not pay tax.


Account number are Unique based on the following combinations, based on manual banking practise of early days; -Country -Bank -Branch -Location -Account Number -Currency -Account Type [Savings, Checking] With the current computerization, there are quite a few items that have been coded into the number, for example Branch, Currency, Account Number and Account Type are part of account number.  Overall there are some attempts to standardize the account number so that they can be unique across the world as described as littleadv.


"You are likely making an assumption that the ""Short call"" part of the article you refer to isn't making: that you own the underlying stock in the first place. Rather, selling short a call has two primary cases with considerably different risk profiles. When you short-sell (or ""write"") a call option on a stock, your position can either be: covered, which means you already own the underlying stock and will simply need to deliver it if you are assigned, or else uncovered (or naked), which means you do not own the underlying stock. Writing a covered call can be a relatively conservative trade, while writing a naked call (if your broker were to permit such) can be extremely risky. Consider: With an uncovered position, should you be assigned you will be required to buy the underlying at the prevailing price. This is a very real cost — certainly not an opportunity cost. Look a little further in the article you linked, to the Option strategies section, and you will see the covered call mentioned there. That's the kind of trade you describe in your example."


As far as I know theres no single tool that does all that well. You'll have to keep your investments separate from your daily expenses and money goals.   There are a few tools everyone uses. I'm partial to budgeting apps. You can try ynab, everydollar, goodbudget. I wouldn't recommend mint as I personally don't trust my login info with a third party. I don't care who owns them. Just my opinion.  I'm working on my own budgeting app. Ideally I'd like to include investments. But thats V2. If you'd like to keep updated on that let me know. Oh, what type of phone do you use?


As it should be.  Taxes are theft.  No one faults a traveler for taking a different route because one is known to be rife with criminals.  Businesses build jobs, strengthen economies, provide value.  Governments take by force, waste, abuse, and use their revenue to build armies and violate rights.  The bad they do (including the initial act of theft) far outweighs any good.


I'm the other way around. If I ordered an Xbox One off Amazon, I would probably claw my eyes out while I wait for it to ship. Whereas I could just walk into Best Buy, price match, and get outa there


I can't see Sony doing this, seeing how their last subscription based streaming model went under due to lack of support, and I don't think Microsoft would really get involved too much because they have enough as is and are slowly adding onto the backwards compatibility. But hey, Nintendo is always down for the less popular and more risky ideas.


It may clarify your thinking if you look at this as two transactions: I am an Australian so I cannot comment on US tax laws but this is how the Australian Tax Office would view the transaction. By thinking this way you can allocate the risks correctly, Partnership Tenancy Two things should be clear - you will need a good accountant and a good lawyer - each.


That is where I think Walmart comes in to buy up a business like this. With their network of stores and the insane buying power they have the can push a good solid quality that the middle class American wants and do it very cheaply. I feel this will be their main combat against Amazon buying whole foods. Currently Walmart makes more on grocery sales than anything else as a hole and will continue to do so because of what and how they are doing it. Walmart is sneaky as fuck when it comes to what they can do and how they can do it. Even Walmart buying up Advanced Auto Parts is a solid counter move to Amazon buying Whole Foods...the next step is buying a Blue Apron type business... and with how Blue Apron is doing financially and given their name they are entering buy off territory.  In my humble albeit non pro status in the stock market my 3 buys are Snap Chat, GoPro, and Walmart for long term retire and never have to worry about money again companies. I am by no means an expert but I have never come close to losing money in the stock market and do a good amount of research before I invest. Snapchat is my top 1 tbh. Sorry for going on a tangent lol


You can't make your bank do a charge back. This function is to assist with straight up fraud, not a customer service mistake. (Think spoofed or stolen card or if a vendor intentionally acted fraudulently.) While you may believe what they did is fraud, your bank will require that you provide the vendor with the opportunity to rectify the situation themselves. Trying to call back and giving up after a long hold time won't meet their standards. If banks started letting anyone unhappy with a vendor start doing charge backs, they would be doing nothing else all day. The issues you're describing has not reached the threshold for the bank to authorize a charge back.  Comcast has local and regional offices, and you could go in person to speak with someone. Maybe there isn't one near you. There are non-peak hours which wait times will be less. You'll just have to grin and bear it if you truly want the money back. Then, take your business elsewhere and post bad reviews online. Always keep in mind that when you eventually speak with someone, they will not be the person that messed up, and you should be overly nice and polite to them. I promise it will yield far better results than being surly and demanding. Another way to get Comcast's attention would be to file a complaint with the BBB. It might take longer, but I've had this work with big companies, usually with good results. Again, be nice to whomever contacts you. In reference to your recent duplicate question: Mastercard won't be able to help at all. They play no part in the transaction at all.


A bridge loan (or bridging loan) is designed for exactly this circumstance. They're short-term loans (6 months is common) designed to help home-buyers to bridge the gap between buying and selling. MoneySupermarket defines them like this: Bridging loans are designed to help people complete the purchase of a property before selling their existing home by offering them short-term access to money at a high-rate of interest. As well as helping home-movers when there is a gap between the sale and completion dates in a chain, this type of loan can also help someone planning to sell-on quickly after renovating a home, or help someone buying at auction. Interest rates are very high, and there are likely to be fees, because you'll only need the loan for a short period. Here are some links to Canadian websites that explain more.


When I was contracting I wish I had joined a tax efficient umbrella organisation rather than just work as a sole trader. I also wish I had put money aside to pay my taxes rather than just spend it all. :(


>His support seems to have a floor of around 30%, unfortunately; so, nearly 1/3 of the population (which is still way too high).   His support is not 30% of the population. He got 19% of the US populations vote, and his [disapproval numbers have only gone up while approval has gone down.](http://www.gallup.com/poll/201617/gallup-daily-trump-job-approval.aspx) With that in mind, the argument that he has more support now than on election day has very little merit, while the argument that he has less support than election day is pretty well supported.   Trump likely has the support of about 15% of the population.


Yes it is, one of the best private schools in the country is two miles down the road from me.  And it looks like a prison with a paint job and flowers in the windows.  I'd rather my kid learned on the street than the hyper paranoid security of what we call schools around here.


"Put Options for Kids: You have a big box of candy bars. You saved up your allowance to get a lot of them, so you could have one whenever you want one. But, you just saw a commercial on TV for a new toy coming out in one month. Your allowance alone won't buy it, and you want that toy more than you want the candy. So, you decide that you'll sell the candy to your friends at school to buy the toy. Now, you have a choice. You can sell the candy now, and put the money in your piggy bank to buy the toy later. Or, you can save the candy, and sell it in a month when you actually need the money to buy the toy. You know that if you sell all the candy you have today, you can get 50 cents a bar. That's not quite enough to buy the toy, but your allowance will cover the rest.  What you don't know is how much you might be able to sell the candy for in a month. You might be able to get 75 cents a bar. If you did, you could pay for the toy with just the money from the candy and even have some left over. But, you might only be able to sell them for 25 cents each, and you wouldn't have enough to buy the toy even with your allowance. You'd like to wait and see if you could get 75 cents each, but you don't want to risk getting only 25 cents each. So, you go to your father. He and his co-workers like these candy bars too, so he'd be willing to buy them all and sell them to his friends the way you're planning to do with yours. You ask for the option to sell him all the candy bars for 50 cents each in one month. If you find out you can get more for them at school, you want to be able to take that deal, but if you can't sell them for 50 cents at school, you'll sell them to your dad. Now, your dad knows that he could have the same problem selling the candy at 50 cents or more that you are afraid of. So, he offers a compromise. If you pay him $5 now, he'll agree to the deal. You figure that even without that $5, between your allowance and the candy money, you can still buy the toy. So, you take the deal.  In one month, you can offer the candy at school. If nobody will pay 50 cents, you can sell the candy to your dad when you get home, but if the kids at school will pay 50 cents or more, you can sell it all at school. Either way, you have enough money to buy the toy, and you can also choose which price to accept, but you had to pay your dad $5, and you can't get that back, so if it turns out that you can sell the candy at school for 50 cents, same as today, then because you paid the $5 you don't end up with as much as if you'd simply waited. In the financial market, this type of option is a ""put option"". Someone who owns something that's traded on the market, like a stock, can arrange to sell that stock to someone else at an agreed-on price, and the seller can additionally pay some money to the buyer up front for the option to not sell at that price. Now, if the stock market goes up, the seller lets the contract expire and sells his stock on the open market. If it goes down, he can exercise the option, and sell at the agreed-upon price to the buyer. If, however, the stock stays about the same, whether he chooses to sell or not, the money the seller paid for the option means he ends up with less than he would have if he hadn't bought the option. Call Options for Kids: Let's say that you see another ad on TV for another toy that you like, that was just released. You check the suggested retail price on the company's web site, and you see that if you save your allowance for the next month, you can buy it. But, in school the next day, everybody's talking about this toy, saying how they want one. Some already have enough money, others are saving up and will be able to get it before you can. You're afraid that because everyone else wants one, it'll drive up the price for them at the local store, so that your month's allowance will no longer buy the toy. So, you go to your dad again. You want to be able to use your allowance money for the next month to buy the new toy. You're willing to wait until you actually have the money saved up before you get the toy, but you need that toy in a month. So, you want your dad to buy one for you, and hold it until you can save up to buy it from him. But, you still want it both ways; if the price goes down in a month because the toy's not so new anymore and people don't want it, you don't want to spend your entire month's allowance buying the one from your dad; you just want to go to the store and buy one at the lower price. You'll pay him $5 for the trouble, right now, whether you buy the toy he got you or not. Your dad doesn't want to have a toy he's not using sitting around for a month, especially if you might not end up buying it from him, so he offers a different deal; In one month, if you still want it, he'll stop by the store on his way home and pick up the toy. You'll then reimburse him from the allowance you saved up; if it ends up costing less than a month's allowance, so be it, but if it costs more than that, you won't have to pay any more. This will only cost you $3, because it's easier for him. But, because he's not buying it now, there is a small chance that the item will be out of stock when he goes to buy it, and you'll have to wait until it's back in stock. You agree, on the condition that if you have to wait longer than a month for your toy, because he couldn't get one to sell you, he pays you back your $3 and knocks another $5 off the cost to buy the toy from him. The basic deal to buy something at an agreed price, with the option not to do so, is known as a ""call option"". Someone who wishes to buy some stocks, bonds or commodities at a future date can arrange a deal with someone who has what they want to buy them at a specific price. The buyer can then pay the seller for the option to not buy. The counter-offer Dad made, where he will buy the toy from the store at whatever price he can find it, then sell it to you for the agreed price, is known as a ""naked call"" in finance. It simply means that the seller, who is in this case offering the option to the buyer, doesn't actually have what they are agreeing to sell at the future date, and would have to buy it on the open market in order to turn around and sell it. This is typically done when the seller is confident that the price will go down, or won't go up by much, between now and the date of the contract. In those cases, either the buyer won't exercise the option and will just buy what they want on the open market, or they'll exercise the option, but the difference between what the seller is paying to buy the commodity on the market and what he's getting by selling it on contract is within the price he received for the option itself. If, however, the price of an item skyrockets, the seller now has to take a significant, real loss of money by buying something and then selling it for far less than he paid. If the item flat-out isn't available, the buyer is usually entitled to penalties for the seller's failure to deliver. If this is all understood by both parties, it can be thought of as a form of insurance."


they are, but they aren't regulated so they're great for the people underwriting, brokering, clearing, and facilitating the trading.  doesn't matter that the 50+ yo guys selling it don't understand blockchain, or even the fundamental reason why these coins supposedly have value, the customers don't either.


Retail is the operative word. Local retailers don't raise prices because they need to compete with uninhibited e-commerce retailers.  I wouldn't be surprised if progressives tried to correct for this by increasing the tax rate on online purchases to offset the e-commerce advantage, which of course would hurt consumers even more.


Sorry for the late reply - it's the authors distilling of his top business books covering all of the topics you'd expect in an MBA course. I think it's a good starting point in that it'll give you a pretty good overview, you could then go in depth on topics you feel you need to. Here's the good reads link [Goodreads: Personal MBA](https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/9512985-the-personal-mba)


> Not to mention that poor people can get into trading  With all that extra capital they have lying around, right?  What reality are you living in?  Even if they could scrape some money together for a few shares, they'll end up getting fleeced by hedge funds trading on insider information and manipulating markets.  What a shitty piece of advice.


Using cash to purchase a home allows you access to certain deals that mortgage buyers cannot take advantage of.  These are typically distressed properties and need to be moved off the books quickly.  Think of things like foreclosures and auctions. This does not mean that it gives you an advantage with every house on the market.  While you may be able to close quickly, with cash, some buyers may choose to wait for the (presumably) higher offers of mortgage buyers.   There are complications to purchasing in cash then mortgaging to replace that cash.  Namely, how was that cash invested?  If one were in mutual funds or stocks, with the money, one will have to pay capital gains tax on any profit.  If those investments increase in value, during the time the money is tied up, what do you do then?  Do you buy at the higher value or hold it back and dollar cost average it in?


You may have to both save your windfall in a savings account and use it to pay down your mortgage. Almost every mortgage has some sort of pay-down option that allows you to pay off a percentage of the original principal without penalty. Any amounts above that will be penalized, most likely by the amount of interest the lending institution would have collected. Ask your lender what the penalties are and what penalty-free pay-down options you have. Knowing that and how much you will receive each quarter by selling the company stock will tell you how much of your money you need to put against your house and your savings account.


There is no need for micropayments, monthly payments, or harassment.  A loan agreement can be drafted that your mom makes one payment annually to you instead of monthly payments. Depending on what she (and you) might be comfortable  with, this payment could be interest only, or partly interest and part repayment  of principal.  Or you can set it up so that there is a balloon payment due when  the loan terminates (say in five years' time) and she pays back the entire  principal and accumulated interest. If you trust her to pay back the money,  you don't need to ask for collateral or security, and you don't need to turn the debt over to a collection agency or send large men with baseball bats to call on Mom. If you just want mom to return the principal when she is ready to so so, and don't really want to charge her interest, then set up the loan to require annual payment of interest only (and the entire principal at  the end of the agreement). Then, each year, a few days before the  interest payment is due, send her a check for the interest due as a gift.  Mom deposits the check in her account and sends back the interest payment to you. So, no harm, no foul: you have  made her a gift (presumably less than the $13K exemption), she has paid you interest, but there is no net transfer of money, and as far as the IRS zebras are concerned, this is a legitimate loan. Do keep copies of the paperwork, though, and be sure to report the interest payment on your income tax returns as income to you. By extension, if you don't really want the money back, set up the loan so that the annual payment is $13K and is part the annual interest due and part the principal until the loan is paid off.


I don't know, they focus solely on debt as if it's the reason for the recession.  And then they say we should reduce spending and raise taxes, as if that would really help the economy.  At least they acknowledge that it would have to happen gradually, but they act like any and all debt is terrible.  Plus, you know, it's Business Insider asking us to put aside politics, which is pretty funny.


"You have received some good answers, but since your concern is proper protocol, keep everything in writing (emails, not phone calls).  Also, you'll get a quick response by contacting the University ""Accounts Payable"" department, confirm the situation with a summary as you posted here and ask for the ABA routing number for the transfer.  The routing number, email, and you bank statement is all the records you need to cover your but."


"There may be a confusion here: I don't think you can get cash back at a register with a credit card. See http://www.cardratings.com/can-i-get-cash-back-when-i-buy-something-with-a-credit-card.html Cash back is only available with a debit card. With a debit card, the money comes directly out of your account at the moment of the transaction. With a credit card, the CC company loans the money to you and you get a monthly bill. You can get cash advances at ATM machines, but  typically comes with hefty fees and exorbitant interest rates, so I strongly advice against this.  There are ""Cash  Back"" credit cards, but that means that you get a percentage of your purchases refunded as cash (or points)."


There is empirical data to suggest deregulation in healthcare would drive down prices. https://thinkprogress.org/how-one-oklahoma-hospital-is-driving-down-the-cost-of-health-care-by-thousands-of-dollars-f507cdf32111. In a free market where prices are transparent, prices go down.   As to your pharmaceutical example, that is a form of protectionism regulation. The reason why epipen is able to charge that price is because they have a patent protection (protectionism) that lasts through 2025. https://www.statnews.com/2016/09/09/epipen-lack-of-innovation/. There is no substitute.   If there were a reform in pharma laws that made pharmaceutical company have to share their patents for licensing costs (similar to how cellular providers must provide access to their networks for a fee) then the price would go down.   Market forces do reign supreme. It is supply and demand. As simple as that. If there is a market with a lot of profit, in a free market, participants will enter the market until the profit drops down to zero. That is why you cannot charge 10 dollars for a big mac in the same city where a McDonalds 1 mile away charges 5 dollars.


"Thanks to the joint lease, I guess you're still contractually on the hook for the remainder of the rent. Did the apartment owners actually contact you before sending the debt collectors after you? As you do technically owe the money, they can sue you if you don't pay, so it's not ""just"" on your credit report. That said, if they haven't contacted you before sending the goons in, I'd try to negotiate the collection fee - 40% sounds a tad excessive to me."


A general mutual fund's exact holdings are not known on a day-to-day basis, and so technical tools must work with inexact data. Furthermore, the mutual fund shares' NAV depends on lots of different shares that it holds, and the  results of the kinds of analyses that one can do for a single stock must be commingled to produce something analogous for the fund's NAV. In other words, there is plenty of shooting in the dark going on. That being said, there are plenty of  people who claim to do such analyses and will gladly sell you their results (actually, Buy, Hold, Sell recommendations) for whole fund families (e.g. Vanguard) in the form of a monthly or weekly Newsletter delivered by US Mail (in the old days) or electronically (nowadays). Some people who subscribe to such newsletters swear by them, while others swear at them and don't renew their subscriptions; YMMV.


"I would have to think about it for awhile to come up with the list of reasons people give. Most of the time they wont even admit that thats what they want. But it clearly is.  I can tell you one reason a former friend gave me, which sticks in my mind. ""Why give people unrealistic expectations?"""


The amount earned is taxable. It needs to shown as income from other sources. Although the last date for paying Advance tax is over [15 March], there is still time to pay Self-Assessment tax till 15 June. If the tax amount due is less than 10,000/- there is no penalty. If the tax is more than Rs 10,000/- there is penalty at the rate of 1% per month from March, and if the amount of tax exceeds 40% of the total tax, there will be additional 1% interest from December.  The tax can be paid online via your Banks website or using the Income Tax website at https://onlineservices.tin.egov-nsdl.com/etaxnew/tdsnontds.jsp The form to be used is 280. You can use the Income tax website to calculate and file your tax returns at https://incometaxindiaefiling.gov.in/ or use the services of a CA. Edit: If the income is less than expenses, you need not pay tax. Maintain proper records [receipts] of income and expenses, if possible use a different Bank account so that they remain different from your main account.  The tax to be paid depending on your income slab. The additional income needs to added to you salary. The tax and slabs will be as per this. There is no distinction on this amount. Its treated as normal income. All Tax for the given year has to be paid in advance. i.e. for Tax year 2013-14, 30% of total tax by 15-Sept, Additional 30% [total 60%] by 15-Dec and Balance by 15-Mar. Read Page 3 and page 10 of http://incometaxindia.gov.in/Archive/Taxation_Of_Salaried_Employees_18062012.pdf


Because people investing capital want to understand their risk exposure.  They don't mind risk, they mind uncertainty and they mind interference with markets.    With Obama in office, the ever swelling regulatory state creates a great unknown: How much central government meddling will there be in incremental taxes, healthcare expenses, and so on.


I don't want to repeat things that have already been said as I agree with most of them. There's just one little thing I'd like to add: If things go the way we're all expecting, this guy will eventually be in desperate need of a friend as he is extremely likely to lose most of his friends sooner or later. Perhaps all you can do is signal that you will not support him now (for obvious reasons), but that you'll be there for him when he may need you in the future...


"The face value of the pennies is meaningless; the $80 didn't ""go"" anywhere.  The metal in those pennies is still worth $180 (less whatever small amount was lost in the stamping/production process).  It's essentially the same thing as asking where the $99.877 worth of profit is when you spend 12.3 cents to create a $100 bill.  We shouldn't be saying that we lose [production cost of coin] minus [face value of coin] when producing a coin.  But it certainly is correct to question why we spend such-and-such to produce a coin that many people don't want to use in the first place."


"The amount, reliability and frequency of dividends paid by an ETF other than a stock, such as an index or mutual fund, is a function of the agreement under which the ETF was established by the managing or issuing company (or companies), and the ""basket"" of investments that a share in the fund represents.  Let's say you invest in a DJIA-based index fund, for instance Dow Diamonds (DIA), which is traded on several exchanges including NASDAQ and AMEX. One share of this fund is currently worth $163.45 (Jan 22 2014 14:11 CDT) while the DJIA itself is $16,381.38 as of the same time, so one share of the ETF represents approximately 1% of the index it tracks. The ETF tracks the index by buying and selling shares of the blue chips proportional to total invested value of the fund, to maintain the same weighted percentages of the same stocks that make up the index. McDonald's, for instance, has an applied weight that makes the share price of MCD stock roughly 5% of the total DJIA value, and therefore roughly 5% of the price of 100 shares of DIA. Now, let's say MCD issued a dividend to shareholders of, say, $.20 per share. By buying 100 shares of DIA, you own, through the fund, approximately five MCD shares, and would theoretically be entitled to $1 in dividends. However, keep in mind that you do not own these shares directly, as you would if you spent $16k buying the correct percentage of all the shares directly off the exchange. You instead own shares in the DIA fund, basically giving you an interest in some investment bank that maintains a pool of blue-chips to back the fund shares. Whether the fund pays dividends or not depends on the rules under which that fund was set up. The investment bank may keep all the dividends itself, to cover the expenses inherent in managing the fund (paying fund management personnel and floor traders, covering losses versus the listed price based on bid-ask parity, etc), or it may pay some percentage of total dividends received from stock holdings. However, it will virtually never transparently cut you a check in the amount of your proportional holding of an indexed investment as if you held those stocks directly. In the case of the DIA, the fund pays dividends monthly, at a yield of 2.08%, virtually identical to the actual weighted DJIA yield (2.09%) but lower than the per-share mean yield of the ""DJI 30"" (2.78%). Differences between index yields and ETF yields can be reflected in the share price of the ETF versus the actual index; 100 shares of DIA would cost $16,345 versus the actual index price of 16,381.38, a delta of $(36.38) or -0.2% from the actual index price. That difference can be attributed to many things, but fundamentally it's because owning the DIA is not the exact same thing as owning the correct proportion of shares making up the DJIA. However, because of what index funds represent, this difference is very small because investors expect to get the price for the ETF that is inherent in the real-time index."


When you place a bid between the bid/ask spread, that means you are raising the bid (or lowering the ask, if you are selling). The NBBO (national best bid and offer) is now changed because of your action, and yes, certain kinds of orders may be set to react to that (a higher bid or lower ask triggering them), also many algorithms (that haven't already queued an order simply waiting for a trigger, like in a stop limit) read the bid and ask and are programmed to then place an order at that point.


Shops in most touristic places tend to accept major currencies (at least dollar and euro). I remember a trip in Istanbul before the euro existed, the kids selling postcards near the blue mosque were able to guess your country and announce in your language the price in your currency.


On reading couple of articles & some research over internet, I got to know about diversified investment where one should invest 70% in equity related & rest 30% in debt related funds Yes that is about right. Although the recommendation keeps varying a bit. However your first investment should not aim for diversification. Putting small amounts in multiple mutual funds may create paper work and tracking issues. My suggestion would be to start with an Index EFT or Large cap. Then move to balanced funds and mid caps etc.  On this site we don't advise on specific funds. You can refer to moneycontrol.com or economictimes or quite a few other personal finance advisory sites to understand the top funds in the segments and decide on funds accordingly. PS: Rather than buying paper, buy it electronic, better you can now buy it as Demat. If you already have an Demat account it would be best to buy through it.


I don't understand why Walmart would use that as a strategy.  Amazon can duplicate any sale they have online.  Its not like Walmart has the capacity to put Amazon out of business at this point.  This would just hurt both companies needlessly.  Walmart needs to innovate to get people to use them.  They need to create a great web experience, provide products and services that are unique to Walmart and of a quality that people will want to utilize them.  They may even need to create an R&D division and look to develop their own products to help prop up their business and push traffic to their online presence.  But they gotta look at this like the US did the space race.  They were too far behind the Soviets to catch them in getting to space and doing a space walk, etc.  What they could do was plan to be the first to make a moon landing and hop ahead of the Soviets.  What form that would be for Walmart, I have no idea, but I think if they want to gain ground online, that's the way they need to think.


Is it really worth the interest you'd pay over a year for a relatively minor and temporary bump to your credit score? I mean, you just bought a car so I'm assuming you probably aren't looking for another loan in the near future.


Because the current government policies, yes the ones enacted by President Obama, favor cash accumulation over capital purchases. Nothing has changed in eight years and I don't think that Donald Trump or the Republicans in congress want to change that.  It is a chicken and egg problem. Business won't increase capital until demand in the market increases and demand in the market won't increase until business increases spending.   Now then the one bright spot for the market is that the Boomers are entering the twilight of their lives. This generation accumulated a massive amount of wealth that is being inherited by their money starved children.


The problem with this is that arn't getting quality answers - pragmatic people with product knowledge will be able to tell you which unit has the best GPS for geo-caching or which bearings will run the longest without needing an overhaul.  Truly useful salespeople are rare & worth coming back to: but I really doubt you'll find many in a single-product consumer environment  who doesn't pay competitively.


"I somehow missed that. When I got to ""more from cnbc"" I thought that was the end of the article, but I see now that is not the case.   You are right, the article does a terrible job of summarizing what he actually says in the email. I think my beef is with the editorial and not the guy."


There are two separate cases here that people are not separating. Any card will allow you to pay an amount not exceeding the actually posted charges.  Some cards will allow you to pay more than this, some will not.  My parents have deliberately overpaid as a means of having a higher credit limit, I've been denied (different card) when trying to do the same thing and the website wouldn't even allow me to pay temporary charges that hadn't yet become real.  (A human operator would allow paying those, though.)


Again lots of negatives but no offer of how to bring back jobs.  talking down everything and not thinking of ways to activate the job mkt or how to active a new basis for economic stability, what with all the put down everyone else, dont come with feasable answes or any answers at all and quote politicians, geez its politicians who got us into this mess in the first place.  i see you are one of the keep the people poor and we can stay rich bunch..bussines were doing fine with US and Euro workers, sure they were not record profits by using slave workers in 3rd world countries, they were not making the highest profits in the history, but they had a mkt, that worked, workers had jobs and could feed a family, buy a house and cars, now they need 2-3 jobs just to survive, retail has crashed and the companies are giving massive bonus'to execs even though this is not sustainable. the persuit of ever greater investor profits has killed the job mkts at home, the retail mkts are now showing the trickle down problems and millions of unemployed and their families are living in poverty in both the US and Europe, WHY? because of the relentless search for higher profits.


What's the problem with having them write it off? Stop fishing for something negative and accept the fact that they're doing a good thing. They're still a business, not a soup kitchen. Making money isn't evil unless your taking advantage of someone, which is the opposite of what they're doing.


"fire your brother's friend and get another accounting major who'll listen to orders and won't try anything dodgy. You might have to pay well for that. Make sure your whole family is on the same page with future plans   EDIT: I just read that you think your brother is going to do a takeover. It's your family's business. He's your brother. It's not really a ""hostile takeover"". If you don't trust your own brother you have to work on the relationship not the business.  EDIT 2: I checked your profile. Stop doing drugs"


"Q: A: Everyone that is short is paying interest to the owners of the shares that the short seller borrowed. Although this quells your conundrum, this is also unrelated to the term. Interest in this context is just the number. In the options market, each contract also has an open interest, which tells you how many of that contract is being held. For your sake, think of it as ""how many are interested"", but really its just a completely different context."