because the market price for good investment advice isn't that low. investment advice is subject to market pricing just like any other good or service.  if you are good enough at investing that you seek increased volatility opportunities, you will have no trouble finding investors willing to give you a share of the upside without any of the downside risk.


"You need to talk to your bank.  If you're unable to contact your bank until Monday, then wait until Monday.  Don't fixate on the idea that the transaction may ""hard post"" on Monday.  If it happens, it happens, but it's not the end of the world. Even if the transaction posts, it's not the end of the world.  If the retailer is legit, they will refund your money, although it may take some time for things to get sorted out. Even if the transaction posts and the retailer is not legit, it's still not the end of the world.  Your bank may help you in trying to recover the funds.  That's why you need to talk to your bank. As you have realized, blindly calling the number in the email is not a good idea, because if it's fake, you're calling the scammers.  Instead, what you should do is try to contact your bank through known trusted channels.  That is, look on your bank's website.  Do they have a phone number listed for fraud reporting or related inquiries?  Is it the same number you see in the email?  If so, you can call it.  If it is not the same number, but the number on your bank's website is a 24-hour number, you can call them at that number and tell them the situation. Based on what you've described, my own guess would be that the retailer is legit, but that the unusual large transaction was flagged by your bank as potentially fraudulent, which is why you got the email.  The fact that you happened to get the email just after canceling the order could be a coincidence.  This is especially true if all this happened in a short time.  Information about these transactions can't be transmitted and analyzed instantaneously, nor can emails be sent instantaneously; there may have been a delay in sending the email so it only arrived after the cancellation. As far as your worries about how ""enfact"" got your info, it is likely a fraud-detection service used by your bank.  Doing a bit of googling reveals that it appears to be a legit service, but there have also been instances of phishing attacks using faked ""enfact"" emails.  However, from what I see, these worked by trying to get you to click on a link, not call a phone number.  Also, if a scammer is able to send you a scam email that includes your actual order details, that's not a phish, it's an outright hack.  In that case the bank and/or retailer (whichever was hacked) would certainly want to know about it and would likely fall all over themselves trying to refund your money to avoid negative PR."


> They deprive the US of valuable income which has been earned through infrastructure, defense, education, etc  It doesn't. The main reason it exists is that the US double dips on taxes. The whole point of these inversions is to deal with how the US treats foreign income. Company still pays US taxes on business done in the US: ie., using US infrastructure. That doesn't change. If the company is head quartered in the US then the US expects the company to also pay taxes on foreign income -- ie., income that can't be referenced back to US infrastructure/education/etc. The company has already paid taxes in the foreign country, but the US feels the need to double dip. This double dipping is very much a US thing. It just makes moral, fiscal, and logical sense for them to do the inversion. The US government should have no rights to overseas money. The reason the move to Canada is simply that Canada, like pretty much all capitalist countries, doesn't tax foreign revenue.   You Americans really really need to look at your tax system. Speaking as a Canadian business owner who deals with US clients, it's just insane. It's easier to deal with the Chinese tax system in my experience.


> I can't imagine how some students feel when they graduate with nothing.  I don't recommend it. (I graduated during the recession.)  Technically, I was better off than some, because I was working at Walmart part-time during college, and they let me go full-time when I graduated. That kept me somewhat afloat for the year and a half it took to find a better job, though I did have to defer student loans for awhile. (My dad died the summer after I graduated and I was helping with my younger siblings.)


"Um Rich people invested in his company. From the article ""60 investors, and in our seed round we had six, so that gives you an idea of how many no’s you had to get to the six yes’s,” he says. For the first million."


As a CFA charter holder, I would wholeheartedly encourage you go through the process.   As someone that interviews potential employees (financial services industry), I would advise you to be prepared to defend your pursuit.   I often come across resumes that state, “CFA Level I candidate,” and when I do, I immediate ask related questions – and most applicants respond inadequately.   Don’t do it to simply pad your resume; do you it because you are committed to the franchise.


It's worthwhile to try and find a better minimum down-payment.  When I bought my home, I got an FHA loan, which drastically reduced the minimum down-payment required (I think the minimum is 3% under FHA).  Be aware that any down-payment percentage under 20% means that you'll have to pay for private mortgage insurance (PMI) as part of your monthly mortgage.  Here's a good definition of it. Part of the challenge you're experiencing may be that banks are only now exercising the due diligence with borrowers for mortgages that they should have been all along.  I hope you're successful in finding the right payment.  Getting a mortgage to reduce your spending on housing relative to rent is a wise move.  In addition to fixing your monthly costs at a consistent level (unlike rent, which can rise for reasons you don't control), the mortgage interest deduction makes for a rather helpful tax benefit.


What are Pivot Points? Pivot Points indicate price levels that are of significance in technical analysis of securities. Pivot Points are used to provide clarity for a trader as they are a predictive indicator of where a security might go. There are at least 6 different types of Pivot Points (Woodie Pivot Point, Fibonacci Pivot, Demark etc..) and they are different based on their formulas but generally serve the same concept. I will be answering your question using the Camarilla Pivot Point formula. Camarilla Pivot Point Formula Generally any Pivot Point formula uses a combination of the Open, High, Low and Close of the previous timeframe. Since you are technically a swing trader indicated by  say between a couple of days to a couple of weeks, as I don't want to   do day trading you should use a weekly 5 to 30 minute chart but you can also use a daily chart as well. So for example if you use a daily chart, you would use the Open, High, Low and Close of the previous day. Example of fictitious stock: MOSEX (Money Stack Exchange) 01/14/16: Open: 10.25, High: 12.55, Low: 9.65, Close: 11.50 On 01/15/16: R4 Level: 13.10, R3 Level: 12.30, R2 Level: 12.03, R1 Level: 11.77, Pivot Point: 11.23, S1 Level: 11.23, S2 Level: 10.97, S3 Level: 10.70, S4 Level: 9.91 R = Resistance, S = Support  How to identify these Pivot Points? Most charting software already have built in overlays that will identify the pivot points for you but you can always find and draw them yourself with an annotation tool. Since we are using the Camarilla Pivot Point formula, the important Pivot Point levels are the R4 which is considered as the Breakout Pivot, the S4 which is considered as the Breakdown Pivot. R3 and S3 are Reversal Pivot Points. Once identify the Pivot Points how should you proceed in a trade? This is the million dollar question and without spoon feeding you requires you to come up with your own strategy. To distinguish yourself from being a novice and pro trader is to have a strategy in a trade. Now I don't really have the time to look for actual charts to provide examples with but generally this is what you should look for to proceed in a trade: Potential Buy/Short Signals: Potential Sell Signals: If a stock moves above the R3 Level but then crosses below it, this would be a sell signal. This is confirmed when their is a lower lower then the candle that first crosses below it. Sell a stock when S4 Level is confirmed. See above for the confirmation. Other Useful Tips: Use the Pivot Point as your support or resistance. The Pivot Point levels can be used for your stop loss. For example, with an S3 reversal buy signal, the S4 should be used as a stop loss. Conversely, the Pivot Point levels can also be used for your target prices. For example, with an S3 reversal buy signal, you should take some profits at R3 level. You should also use a combination of other indicators to give you more information to confirm if a signal is correct. Examples of a good combination is the RSI, MACD and Moving Averages. Read that book in my comment above!!


Paying $12,000 in lump sumps annually will mean a difference of about $250 in interest vs. paying $1,000 monthly. If front-load the big payment, that saves ~$250 over paying monthly over the year. If you planned to save that money each month and pay it at the end, then it would cost you ~$250 more in mortgage interest. So that's how much money you would have to make with that saved money to offset the cost. Over the life of the loan the choice between the two equates to less than $5,000. If you pay monthly it's easy to calculate that an extra $1,000/month would reduce the loan to 17 years, 3 months. That would give you a savings of ~$400,000 at the cost of paying $207,000 extra during those 17 years. Many people would suggest that you invest the money instead because the annual growth rates of the stock market are well in excess of your 4.375% mortgage. What you decide is up to you and how conservative your investing strategy is.


I've had a few buy ins at 2-400, done nothing until it came in the news. I sold a few coins 800 before it hit 1000 the first time, I sold 20 coins at 1600 this last time (and then saw it keep going...) I planed on buying back in after it crashed but it's been holding tight so.  The actual markets seem like insane bubbles with endless new ICOs. I've thus stayed away from them.


">When corporations have as much impact and power over our lives as a government should we really just let them walk over our civil rights?  Maybe we shouldn't have let corporations get that much impact or power in the first place, then. Oh, but that would be anti-free market...  >If I can't get a credit card because of my political ideology how am I supposed to function?   You do realize that there's an entire ""unbanked"" population that can't credit cards or even bank accounts, yes?  >Governments shouldn't be able to oppress and neither should corporations.  Where did you fall on the whole bakery can't/can refuse to make a gay wedding cake spectrum?"


">The CTR stuff is unquestionable.  Enough information has been released to demonstrate it as so. > >Regarding the ""tow the line"" or silence/ban policy in T-D, you're 100% right.    I know, and thats why theyre substantively different from what happens on r/politics. Which was my point. We could be having this discussion in politics, but not t_d.   >My issue is the trend on reddit that anyone who posts anything that isn't 100% vile disdain for Trump must be from /T_D and that the extremists in /T_D are some kind of outlier in how they act - when there are other significantly sized subs that behave in a similar fashion.   Thats not at all the issue you originally brought up where you equated r/politics or r/t_d"


"I'm in this situation right now.  I've increased my annual pay by 20% due to overtime but the extra work is killing me.  I finally went to my boss and said that if they weren't going to hire more people, the least they could do is replace the deadweight employees with ones who are actually capable of doing some work.    We have a lot of ""lifers"" with my company who were hired 20 years ago to do some simple task that has now been eliminated so they were shuffled into a different position that they just aren't qualified for and none of them are willing to put in the effort to update their skills.  If my coworkers had to interview for the positions they currently hold, about half of them would not be hired.  But since they're already here and the company is scared to fire people for being incompetent, we're stuck with them."


"Not minutes, but hours.  The ""ex-dividend"" date is the deadline for acquiring a stock to receive a dividend. If you hold a stock at the beginning of this day, you will receive the dividend. So you could buy a stock right at the end of the day on the day before the ex-dividend date, and sell it the next day (on the ex-dividend date), and you would get your dividend. See this page from the SEC for more information.  The problem with this strategy, however, is that the value of the stock typically drops by the same amount as the dividend on that day. If you take a look at the historical price of the stock you are interested in, you'll see this. Of course, it makes sense why: a seller knows that selling before  the date results in a loss of the dividend, so they want a higher price to compensate. Likewise, a buyer on or after the date knows that the dividend is already gone, so they want to pay a lower price."


If your skills are at the level of a McDonald's cashier than you should be compensated for that. You should NOT be compensated for a lifestyle which you WANT. Having a kids and a wife is a choice, no one is putting a gun to your head. If your skills are at the minimum(which is 2% in the USA) than you should not be supporting a family, it's simple. The kid with a father/mother at that level will have a terrible life, lazy parents who are not willing to work to better themselves.


"Ah, so you are using your eminent academically-originated artistic talents to create elegant [""coffee foam art""?](http://www.google.com/search?q=coffee+foam+art)  Well THAT certainly was worth all those years of study, not to mention the student loans.  Unfortunately, I believe your job CAN be automated via [CNC machinery](http://www.thekitchn.com/look-latte-printer-60466), so you better polish up that resume again. (Because YES they are actually selling the machines, and [people/businesses ARE actually buying them.](http://onlatte.com/blog/2008/08/20/selected-works-at-siggraph-2008/))"


"Suggested way to make the decision to repair or buy: Figure out what it will cost to repair your car. (If necessary, pay a garage to evaluate it ""as if your daughter was interested in buying it"".) Then think about whether you would pay that much to buy a car just like yours but without those problems. If the answer is yes, fixing it us probably your most cost-effective choice, even if it is a big bill. If the answer is no, consider a used car, and again have the mechanic check it for any lurking horrors before committing to buy it. That avoids the ""proprty-line tax"" where a new car loses a significant percentage of its value the moment it leaves the dealership. An almost-toy car us virtually indistinguishable from a new car, costs much less, and realistically has about the same expected life span. I bought a new car once -- at about $300 over the dealer's real (as opposed to sticker) cost, since I was willing to take the one he was stuck with from the previous model year. (Thank you, Consumer Reports, for providing the dealer's cost info and making this a five-minute transaction.) If it hadn't suffered flood damage I'd probably still be driving it, and even so I sorta regret not pricing what it would have cost go completely replace the engine. If you really plan to drive it until it is completely unrepairable, you may be able to justify a new car... But realistically buying a one- or two-year-old car would have been a better choice."


Whenever you're not sure, you can always contact the regulatory agency in the location of the lender and see if they are registered.  Organizations that lend out money tend to get oversight and have reporting obligations.  Reputable banks in the United States will be a member of the FDIC. However, without even looking anything up, I can already tell this is a scam.  An actual lender would be required to identify who you are beyond a doubt (this is called KYC), and in addition would have to report your loan to some sort of tax authority. That means they must ask you for a tax identifier number of some kind, and would probably want your full date of birth instead of just your age.


Here's an unconventional approach: If you really need the money you can always call the bank or go to one of their branches and get new login credentials after some kind of formal process like proving that you are in fact the account holder. Since it will be a hassle to get the credentials you will not do it if it's not necessary. In germany the banks all use transaction authentication numbers (TAN) that you need to authorize a transfer. If there is such a thing in UK you can just throw the TAN list away. This way you can still check your savings balance but you cannot transfer the money without requesting a new TAN list which takes time and effort.


I never give advice but I will now because you are getting poor advice.  I run between 820 and 835 for a FICO score and have for years.  I have a Discover, AMEX, VISA and MC.  I have over 200,000 dollars of credit and I never EVER pay interest.  I pay off the cards every month.  So, does it matter how much credit you have or can you have too much?  NO!  Bank of America gave me 40,000 dollars credit and I don't even have an account with them except the card.  Banks like people who pay their bills on time.  Well, the computers at the banks do.  LOL...DON'T be afraid of asking for more credit.  Your score may drop for two months but that is it.  Good luck with your money


"> Milano says that Hellie’s poor oversight of the remodeling job caused costs to spiral. She ended up spending $5 million, though the home is worth no more than $3 million.    This sounds like lack of oversight on Milano's part.   Who gives their so-called ""business manager"" handle your home improvement project?   Why can't you go to an architecture & construction company yourself? How hard is that?"


You never know when your upholstery or carpets can be in the need of Bunbury cleaning services, and this is exactly why you should always have our number handy. We, Chem-Dry Clean and Green, are like a doctor for your upholstery and carpet and you can give us a call anytime they are dirty.


">Yes, they are. Ridesharing is just a term for Unmarked taxi booked through app.  No.. Ride sharing is when you share a lift with someone, traditionally it's when someone is going somewhere and they offer space to others too (And that's quite popular where it exists).  Uber is a minicab company in that you book a vehicle and it take you somewhere, in the UK at least, it's regulated and licensed in the same way (as opposed to black cabs which are licensed and regulated differently and can be flagged down).  >I have no issue with that, since ""Government regulated taxi"" is so awful in almost every city on earth, that ridesharing has improved safety and convenience.  That may be true in parts of the US and some other places, but it's really not the case in 'almost every city on earth'. I've lived in quite a few and visited many others and frankly Uber is at best on a par with taxi services, especially given that having an app to book is no longer unusual, where it does better is in places where regulation is essentially a protectionist mess (which is more an exception than the norm)."


"In financial theory, there is no reason for a difference in investor return to exist between dividend paying and non-dividend paying stocks, except for tax consequences.  This is because in theory, a company can either pay dividends to investors [who can reinvest the funds themselves], or reinvest its capital and earn the same return on that reinvestment [and the shareholder still has the choice to sell a fraction of their holdings, if they prefer to have cash]. That theory may not match reality, because often companies pay or don't pay dividends based on their stage of life.  For example, early-stage mining companies often have no free cashflow to pay dividends [they are capital intensive until the mines are operational]. On the other side, longstanding companies may have no projects left that would be a  good fit for further investment, and so they pay out dividends instead, effectively allowing the shareholder to decide where to reinvest the money. Therefore, saying ""dividend paying""/""growth stock"" can be a proxy for talking about the stage of life + risk and return of a company. Saying dividend paying implies ""long-standing blue chip company with relatively low capital requirements and a stable business"". Likewise ""growth stocks"" [/ non-dividend paying] implies ""new startup company that still needs capital and thus is somewhat unproven, with a chance for good return to match the higher risk"". So in theory, dividend payment policy makes no difference. In practice, it makes a difference for two reasons: (1) You will most likely be taxed differently on selling stock vs receiving dividends [Which one is better for you is a specific question relying on your jurisdiction, your current income, and things like what type of stock / how long you hold it]. For example in Canada, if you earn ~ < $40k, your dividends are very likely to have a preferential tax treatment to selling shares for capital gains [but your province and specific other numbers would influence this]. In the United States, I believe capital gains are usually preferential as long as you hold the shares for a long time [but I am not 100% on this without looking it up]. (2) Dividend policy implies differences in the stage of life / risk level of a stock. This implication is not guaranteed, so be sure you are using other considerations to determine whether this is the case.  Therefore which dividend policy suits you better depends on your tax position and your risk tolerance."


The answer is that other than a small number of applications (the approx. 10% of gold production that goes to 'industrial uses') gold does not have intrinsic value beyond being pretty and rare (and useful for making jewelry.)  There are a number of 'industrial' applications and uses for gold (see other answers for a list) but the volume consumed this way is fairly small, especially relative to the capacity to mine new gold and reclaim existing gold. If you removed investment, and jewelry usage (especially culturally driven jewelry usage) then there's no way the remaining uses for industry and dentistry could sustain the price levels we currently see for gold.  Furthermore, and perhaps more importantly, the best data I can find for this shows the total number of tons consumed for industrial uses has been shrinking for several years now, and that was prior to recent price increases, so it is difficult to tie that reduced demand to increasing prices.  And one might postulate in a 'collapsed society' you seem to be referring to in your question, that a lot of the recent industrial demand (e.g. the '50 cents of gold in each cellphone') could quite possibly disappear entirely.   The argument many people use for gold having value is usually 'been used as money for thousands of years'.  But this confuses gold having a value of its own with the reasons why something makes a useful currency.  Gold has a large number of characteristics that make it an ideal currency, and of all the elements available it is perhaps the best physical element to serve as a currency. BUT just as with a dollar bill, just because it is a good currency, does NOT give it an intrinsic value. Any currency is only worth what someone will trade you for it.  The value is set by the economy etc., not the medium used as a currency.   So yes, people will probably always use gold as money, but that doesn't make the money worth anything, it's just a medium of exchange. Incidentally two other things should be noted.  The first is that you have a problem when the medium itself used for a currency becomes worth more than the face value.  Hence why we stopped using silver in coins, and there were concerns over pennies due to the price of copper. This leads to the second point, which is that currently, gold is TOO RARE to suffice as a world currency, hence why all countries went off the gold standard years ago.  The size of national and global economies was growing faster than the supply of gold, and hence it was becoming impossible to have enough gold to back all the currencies (inflation concerns aside).


All I am saying is that I would pay $.50 in order to not deal with automated check out.   I'm sure that once we reach the point of automated check out that there will not be a checkout, like the Amazon convenience store.


>the company said these guys didn't know about the breach  yeah... thats a little hard to believe but this is all in the name of plausible deniability so I cant blame them. I dont think a single person buys that these guys all just decided to sell stock at the same time right before a story hits that will tank the value of the company


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Grampa wiggly your such a silly faggot. Always hopeing that someone is in highschool.   >Worthy only of mockery, you shall e laughed at for the next 2 seconds.   nice to see you still think this is funny, cute, hurts, or what ever the fuck you think it is.


"As @BrenBarn points out, when people say ""they like having a mortgage because they get the benefit of writing off the interest"" they typically mean as opposed to renting. You can deduct interest and real estate (property) tax payments, as well as some closing costs in the year you purchase the home. You are also building equity (instead of helping your landlord build his or her equity).  Take for example a single person paying $1,000/month to rent an apartment. This is not deductible. He has $1,800 a year in other expenditures that would otherwise be deductible (charitable contributions, etc.), but he doesn't itemize because it isn't more than the $6,100 standard deduction, so it doesn't matter.  He takes out a mortgage for $150,000 at 6% over a 30-year term to buy a similarly-appointed home. His new mortgage payment is about $900/month, plus he puts $100/month into an escrow account for property taxes, roughly totaling his former rent payment. Over the first full year, he pays about $9,000 in deductible mortgage interest and $1,200 in deductible real estate taxes. And because he is now itemizing, he can also write off the aforementioned $1,800. At a top marginal tax rate of 25%, he shaved nearly $1,500 (.25 * (9000 + 1200 + 1800 - 6100)) off his federal income tax bill -- with the same living expenses! This is a simple example with some arbitrary numbers to prove the point, and there are a lot of other pros and cons to buying vs. renting. But again, this is probably what they mean when you hear this. Others have covered the overpaying angle, and there are a bunch of other Money.SE posts on the same or similar subjects."


Use a currency ETF.  there are many.  Specific to your question there is WisdomTree Dreyfus Brazilian Real Fund (BZF) I don't happen to find a currency ETF for Thailand, so the closest you could come to a Thai currency fund would be something that's an Index fund ETF that is based on an index in the Thai Market such as:  MSCI Thailand Investable Market Index Fund Because that fund is investing in an index of stocks that trade on the Thai market, you are in effect investing in something denominated in Baht.  This is spelled out in the prospectus where it discusses 'currency risk'.   The problem is that you are however not investing in just the currency, but rather a broad index of stocks denominated in that currency.  Still to the extent the market holds fairly steady, you get much the same effect of investing in just the currency.  to the extent the market is moving, you get the net effect of what the thai market does, plus how the bhat trades relative to the dollar.


Thousands of public servants ride 24+ hours in C130 cargo holds and get off and perform top notch combat and/or humanitarian work for days or weeks on end.  I have no pity for the overpaid bureaucrat flying coach for 2 hours. They're unqualified for the job if a flight in coach stresses them out and causes them to under or not perform.


I think it's a bit dependent upon the individual locations. The ones near where I live, for example, are absolutely atrocious, with some being obscenely greasy or salty, others having little more than mush.  The one near where I work, however, is pretty decent, and the burgers usually aren't disgustingly greasy and the fries aren't over-salted.  It's the exact opposite for Burger King, though: The one near where I work is so bad I've simply stopped going there, but the one near where I live is pretty decent (the salads, especially, are a key issue for me: near where I work, most of the lettuce is wilted, but near where I live, it's usually crisp).


"Start by going to Salary.com and figuring out what the range is for your location (could be quite wide).  Then also look at job postings in your area and see if any of them mention remuneration (gov't jobs tend to do this).  If possible go and ask other people in your field what they think the expected range of salary should be. Take all that data and create a range for your position.  Then try and place yourself in that range based on your experience and skill set.  Be honest. Compare that with your own pay.  If your figures indicate you should be making significantly more, schedule a meeting with your boss (or wait for a yearly review if it's relatively soon) and lay out your findings.  They can say: Be ready for curve balls like benefits, work environment and other ""intangibles"". If they say no and you still think your compensation is unfair, it's time to polish up your CV.  The easiest way to get a job is to already have one."


You're assuming options traded on the open market. To close open positions, a seller buys them back on the open market. If there's little on offer, this will drive the price up.


What is the corporate structure? Your partnership agreement or LLC operating agreement should dictate how you approach this.


Can't say I agree when we're talking about a minimum wage job. I sold a business this year and I'm fairly successful, but I did work some crap jobs in my younger days. For me personally, it was not at all worth the effort of going all out for $5.xx an hour (at the time) and I'm completely ok that I didn't. I tended to look at the few people who did put in their all with suspicion and I also think those people probably had low ceilings in life - way too satisfied with being worker bees.


Definitely see your point. One of my customers started as an owner/operator of a frozen yogurt shop that became popular, and now he has three. He says he works less hours now but his stress level is *higher* because he employs young people. (He actually has a low turnover because he pays well). Still, some people graduate high school not knowing you have to wash your hands after handling money, and chocolate toppings on the floor need to be cleaned up before bugs are attracted. He said he spends a ton of time explaining things that 18-22 year olds should already know. He told me if he had it to do over he would have just kept the one store and ran it himself. The point im making is that some people would prefer to keep it simple.  The only reason im expanding is I think there is room to bring in my good friend as a partner.  Ill end up making less money for a while and maybe equalizing in the long run but the business will be able to stay open five days a week even if one of us is gone. Ill be trading income for time without disrupting my customers.


They won't survive. If it looks like they will, the right wing will pass more laws that only aim to bankrupt the postal service. They'll keep hammering until it's dead, hand it over to some ridiculously inefficient monopoly, and then hold it up as an example of how awful government run servhices are. And in a decade or so it'll cost a dollar to send a letter, you'll have to go to the past office to pick up your mail because there's no money in service to your door, and service will take weeks.  Another decade, probably less, and the postal service will be a distant memory, and your only option for physical goods will be FedEx or ... well, nothing, because by then FedEx will have a monopoly. And it'll cost two dollars to send a letter, you'll have to pick it up wherever they decide to send it, and if you don't like it, too bad! Because there will be laws in place making it impossible to start up a competitor.  They'll make billions, delivering worse service for higher prices, and all we'll ever hear about is how awful it was when the government ran the show and incompetently bankrupted the agency.


"I think you have succumbed to a category error. The rational course forward is to classify all property as either his, hers, or family's. Each contributes a portion of wages to the family. Each logs hours spent performing familial duties and is ""paid"" in virtual dollars into their family account at market rates for that service. At any point actual plus virtual dollars are summed to assess the value of the family and percentages are allocated to each party on this basis. Put this into a pre-nuptual agreement.  At the time of the inevitable divorce you leave with yours, she leaves with hers, family's assets are divided as described, and division of children should be as King Solomon suggested. Or you could do what I did: Put all your property (and debts) into one pot. Make sure each partner can competently manage bookkeeping and investments. Accumulate a family net worth sufficient to divide in two and each have financial independence. (I'm working on this last step.)"


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"There are a number of bona fide reasons to consider here. If there is a cost to discharging a security packet, or a mortgage, it may not be convenient if we are advanced in the repayment schedule. Early exit fees may apply, or the interest may be ""pre-determined"". As a rule of thumb, when we are talking about rates above 10% p.a. then arrangements should be short (bridging finance - keep it short and charge 'em heaps), and for personal arrangements, small."


I am surprised no one has mentioned the two biggest things (in my opinion).  Or I should say, the two biggest things to me.  First, 1099 have to file quarterly self employment taxes.  I do not know for certain but I have heard that often times you will end up paying more this way then even a W-2 employees.  Second, an LLC allows you to deduct business expenses off the top prior to determining what you pay in taxes as pass-through income.  With 1099 you pay the same taxes regardless of your business expenses unless they are specifically allowed as a 1099 contractor (which most are not I believe).  So what you should really do is figure out the expense you incur as a result of doing your business and check with an accountant to see if those expenses would be deductible in an LLC and if it offsets a decent amount of your income to see if it would be worth it.  But I have read a lot of books and listened to a lot of interviews about wealthy people and most deal in companies not contracts.  Most would open a new business and add clients rather than dealing in 1099 contracts.  Just my two cents... Good luck and much prosperity.


Hi! This is just a friendly reminder letting you know that you should type the shrug emote with three backslashes to format it correctly:   Enter this - ¯\\\\\\\_(ツ)_/¯    And it appears like this - ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯    ---   *^If ^the ^formatting ^is ^broke, ^or ^you ^think ^OP ^got ^the ^shrug ^correct, ^please ^see [^this ^thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/john_yukis_bots/comments/6tr5vq/u_you_dropped_this_a_shrug_fixing_bot/)^.*   ***^Commands:*** *^!ignoreme, ^!explain*


I may be moving to Switzerland soon and would like to know if there's a similar system to move money between a Swiss bank account and a U.S bank account. There is no easy way.  The most common method is International Wire or SWIFT. These kinds of transfer are generally charged in the range of USD 20 to USD 50 per transfer. It generally takes 2 to 5 days to move the money. Some Banks have not yet given the facility to initiate a International Wire from Internet banking platforms. One has to physically walk-in. So if this is going to be frequent, make sure both your banks offer this. As the volume between US and Switzerland is less, there may not be any dedicated remittance service providers [these are generally low cost].


From a quick google, apparently 5% of government contracts need to go to women- or minority-owned small businesses, with another 18% going to small businesses more generally.   If your company was bumped, it was b/c they were on the bubble in terms of quality/price, and inevitably the only reason were able to contract in years prior was b/c of the rules discriminating against large businesses over small businesses.  The more concerning take away in all of this, is how on earth is it a struggle to hit the 5% target without any sort of affirmative action intervention.  A bit of an eye-opener on the extent of systemic racism / inequality of opportunity that exists today.  We really should be doing more to support minority owned businesses, and more importantly addressing the apparently inequity in opportunity in our business culture.


From what I can make out from CRA site it seems that you can definitely not redeposit in the same year (as I originally incorrectly answered to someone else, but have since corrected). It does appear, however, that you can withdraw as much as you like, and that would generate room for the subsequent year. Good Luck


I know what you are talking about and this is what students at UC I know usually do in such cases: Talk with the cashier's/registar's office and see if you have been reported to collections. If you had plans to pay via financial aid, this can be a non-issue, but be sure. It's critical to remove your record from collections, if any. Take a loan and find out how the loan will be paid. Most lenders pay the school directly based on what the school bills for the quarter. If you signed up for X units in Fall '10 and plan to take Y units in Winter '12, add X+Y units in your list of courses. Those X units could be anything in your course catalog. Once the school sends out the bill and the lender pays it, drop the X units. This will give you a check and use that to pay out the outstanding amounts. Most schools will include all outstanding amounts in the bill for your current quarter, but I am not sure if your lenders has agreements otherwise. Also, some lenders have agreements in place to send refunds directly to them, but remember, the cashier is king and she can make refunds happen the way she likes, and she is likely to help a student unless you have a bad payment history (collections, bounced checks..)


It depends how deep in the money it is, compared to the dividend.  Even an in the money call has some time premium. As the call holder, if I exercise instead of selling the call, I am trading the potential for a dividend, which I won't receive, for getting that time premium back by selling.  Given the above, you'll notice a slight distortion in options pricing as a dividend date approaches, as the option will reflect not just the time premium, but the fact that exercising with grab the dividend.  Edit to address your comment - $10 stock, $9 strike, 50 cent div. If the option price is high, say $2, because there's a year till expiration, exercising makes no sense. If it's just $1.10, I gain 40 cents by exercising and selling after the dividend.


"Gold ownership has been outlawed before in this country.  However, if you research it I think you'll find that there are two components in pricing gold coins:  * The spot value of gold  * The numismatic value of the coin in question.  That second point is where you get fucked.  There are a whole lot of outfits selling worthless ""investment grade"" coins that sell for way more than they should based on gold content, and for way more than any coin collector would ever give you for the value of the coin itself.  But it's much harder to find a reasonable price for some supposedly rare coin than it is for the metal itself, so it's easier to scam you.  So it's in the best interest of the guys that advertise for these firms to say ""buying rare coins is awesome, and buying straight gold is stupid.""  Me?  If I want to buy going coins I'll buy US Gold Eagles for a small percentage over the spot price.  They're probably more liquid than some random chunk of goldish metal that says it's 1oz/10oz/100oz of gold."


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"I highly doubt this was a mistake. In the event of a corporate merger/buyout, changes to employee 401(k) plans are usually hashed out as part of the M&A agreement. The choices made in the agreement depend on numerous factors, so it may be difficult to predict what happens to your plan in situations like this. A quick online search reveals a few articles, e.g. this one from expertplan.com, that list the three most common consequences for retirement plans: It sounds like the company that purchased your employer agreed to immediately vest employees in employer 401(k) contributions as part of the purchase agreement. Without knowing the details of the merger/buyout, I can't say this for sure, but this sounds like a plausible way to keep employees of the purchased company content.  Rather than roll it over, does it make sense to wait for that company to be purchased, in the hopes that a similar ""mistake"" occurs? Since this doesn't sound like a mistake, but rather a part of the buyout agreement, I don't think it's something you should count on in the future. It may be very likely, or it could be a relatively rare occurrence that happened to be part of this purchase agreement. I don't believe the Employee Retirement Income Security Act regulates what can or can't be done to your 401(k) in a buyout, except that the company is required to inform you of any changes (and obviously, the new 401(k) plan must conform to ERISA as well)."


> My biggest thing is I can't put them on bookshelves...I have a mini library starting and I really enjoy having physical books around I can pick and choose from whenever I feel like reading.  Aah, the stationary life.    As someone that likes experiencing the world and has spent 2+ months in maybe 5 countries so far in his life (including living in 2 and soon a 3rd), the bookshelves are the most annoying part of physical books. Sure, they're visually pleasing, but when we moved countries last time I swear 50% of the weight we dragged over was in books.  Also: I do a great deal of long distance flying, and used to pick up books for both flights. 20 flights a year and I'd have 40 soft cover books of mediocre quality accumulating on my shelves just from that. I hate throwing books away, and with my wife flying similarly we just accumulated this crap (and it was annoying while traveling too).  All in all, life has been **much** easier since the e-books came out.


There are two methods of doing this Pulling out the money and paying the penalty if any, and going on your way. Having the Roth IRA own the business, and being an employee. If you go with the second choice, you should read more about it on this question.


"fiat in Latin means ""let it be"" or ""let it happen"" - as in ""fiat lux!"" meaning ""let there be light!"". Thus, fiat money means money that are created by the government decree - they would be random worthless pieces of paper otherwise, so the government says ""let this paper be worth $100"" and it becomes $100. Non-fiat money have some value that is beyond declaration - e.g., gold coin has the value of gold that is made of. Since 1971, almost all world currencies are fiat money."


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Kate Gregory has already covered maintenance and tools. As a one-off, there's furniture and soft furnishings for the home. Cable/satellite TV if you want it. You listed car insurance, but not fuel, servicing, repairs and depreciation/leasing (as applicable). And, there's also food.


I was making the point that Accenture is no longer Big4. There are a lot of consulting companies, but Accenture is not in the same league as the Big4 any more. This is demonstrable by the difference in benefits and bill rates.  The Big4s are owned by partners. Their compensation is private, but recently PWC had to reveal that their average compensation is $600k/partner. My firm has about 1500 consulting partners and each of the Big4 varies quite a bit. Whatever the Accenture equivalent is for partner, whatever you call that, they make nowhere near the same compensation level. And this actually gets disclosed as they are a public corporation.  Higher compensation; therefore higher bill rates; therefore small overlap for competition.  The business model is very different between public and private consulting companies.


"First of all, one thing that is very important: Match is always better than no match.  So, you should definitely use that match on your HSA if you've already maxed out the company match on your 401(k).  In fact, for most people there won't be much reason to invest in your 401(k) above the company match at all. If, for example, your company matches only up to 5%, and you want to invest 15% of income into retirement, you ought to open an IRA instead (Roth or standard depending on your situation) and put the extra 10% in there. Beyond that, you're right, HSA's (the accounts themselves) have all the benefits of a 401(k).  I wouldn't invest there for retirement instead an IRA, though.  There is just no reason. The only built-in downside of an HSA is the HDHP attachment, which may be undesirable to some employees or in certain situations. If you want to get down to raw dollar figures and your company is offering both a standard health plan and a HDHP+HSA, the calculation will be dependent on the premiums and benefits of each and your projected costs of your health care (which is always a crystal ball estimation anyway).  Those costs and benefits can vary wildly, from a completely obvious choice on either the HDHP or standard plan, or pretty much a wash where you decide based on your comfort level with a high deductible. To illustrate... Standard plan: Your company might offer a standard plan that costs you $100 out of pocket for an individual.  That means you pay a minimum of $1200 a year for health care.  Most plans will have copays (a flat amount like $15 you pay for standard doctor consultations), a deductible (you pay 100% of fees up to this, co-pays don't count), a percentage you pay beyond the deductible (20% is typical), and a maximum (like $1000 per individual per year - beyond this, up to a ""lifetime"" maximum benefit of like $2 million, you won't be charged anything). In a standard plan where you have no expenses, you might pay $1200 a year plus a couple co-pays, for a total of $1230.  In a bad year with surgery, you might max out, so $1200 + $30 + $1000 = $2230. HDHP/HSA: These plans are very different.  You might still pay a premium, I.E. $30 a month.  They will still have a deductible and maximum, but they might be the same amount.  You will probably not have copays (I didn't when I had one, but I could be wrong), which means a standard doctor visit will cost more like $80-100. In a good year, this will mean that you pocket $500 from your company, but pay back $360 in premiums.  A couple doctor visits would mean there's only $300 left in your account at the end of the year.  But, that's still a net cost of only $60, compared to $1230.  Big win! In a bad year, you would end up out of pocket the max (say $2000) plus premiums, minus the $500, for a total of $1860.  In this case, still better than the standard plan. The important difference will come in an in-between year.  You will reach the max quicker on an HDHP than you will on a standard plan.  With a family, where all of these numbers are higher, and you have more people to be getting sick/injured this might make the standard plan a better benefit. However, since whatever you build up in an HSA account stays with you forever, while you're single and have only your own health to be concerned about, that is probably a good choice.  When you have a family, things might change and you switch to a standard plan, but you still have that war-chest to offset copays and hospital visits in future years. I was forced onto an HSA for 2 years with a smaller company.  They had a really good contribution, $2500 if I remember right, and we saved up big time. Later, when my wife was pregnant, we were on a low-deductible standard plan and paid all our fees out of the HSA.  It worked out great. I say, as long as the averaged yearly expected costs make sense after doing calculations illustrated above, go for it!"


A bank is insolvent when it can no longer meet its short-term obligations.  In this example, the bank is insolvent when depositors withdraw more cash than the bank can pay out. In this case, it's probably something in the range of $600-700k, because the bank can borrow money from other banks using assets as collateral. In the US, we manage this risk in a few ways. First, FDIC insurance provides a level of assurance that in a worst-case scenario, most depositors will have access to their money guaranteed by the government. This prevents bank panics and reduces the demand for cash. The risk that remains is the risk that you brought up in your scenario -- bad debt or investments that are valued inappropriately. We mitigate this risk by giving the Federal Reserve and in some instances the US Treasure the ability to provide nearly unlimited capital to get over short/mid-term issues brought on by the market. In cases of long-term, structural issues with the bank balance sheets, regulators like the FDIC, Federal Reserve and others have the ability to assume control of the bank and sell off its assets to other, stronger institutions. The current financial regime has its genesis in the bank panics of the 1890's, when the shift from an agricultural based economy (where no capital is available until the crops come in!) to an industrial economy revealed the weakness of the unregulated model where ad hoc groups of banks backed each other up. Good banks were being destroyed by panics until a trusted third party (JP Morgan) stepped in, committed capital and make personal guarantees.


I agree with Speedbird389 - I leased an economy car 10 years ago, paid the residual at the end of the lease because I knew the car would last a long time, but that cost me $5000 more than if I had bought it in the first place...


"If you start an LLC with you as the sole member it will be considered a disregarded entity.  This basically means that you have the protection of being a company, but all your revenues will go on your personal tax return and be taxed at whatever rate your personal rate calculates to based on your situation.  Now here is the good stuff.  If you file Form 2553 you can change your sole member LLC to file as an S Corp.  Once you have done this it changes the game on how you can pay out what your company makes.  You will need to employ yourself and give a ""reasonable"" salary.  This will be reported to the IRS and you will file your normal tax returns and they will be taxed based on your situation. Now as the sole member you can then pay yourself ""distribution to share holders"" from your account and this money is not subject to normal fica and social security tax (check with your tax guy) and MAKE SURE to document correctly.  The other thing is that on that same form you can elect to have a different fiscal year than the standard calendar IRS tax year.  This means that you could then take part of profits in one tax year and part in another so that you don't bump yourself into another tax bracket.  Example:  You cut a deal and the company makes 100,000 in profit that you want to take as a distribution.  If you wrote yourself a check for all of it then it could put you into another tax bracket.  If your fiscal year were to end say on sept 30 and you cut the deal before that date then you could write say 50,000 this year and then on jan 1 write the other check."


What about the jobs!???!!! You know how many people work in health care! Repealing health care is like shooting our economy in both feet and then having no health care workers. I could toss a few FUs out to these CEOs, insurance companies for holding us hostage. But my comment is really think about the ground workers, the people who actually do the work, their jobs will be eliminated first when the patients stop coming.


Sorry to hear about your spouse's health issues. May he have a speedy and, as far as possible, full recovery. The Patient Protectection and Affordable Care Act (PPACA, aka Obamacare) is now the law of the land. Among its many provisions are that insurers may no longer deny coverage for pre-existing conditions, they may not put lifetime caps on benefits, and they may not charge different premiums based on any criteria except age cohort and geographic area (i.e. rates may be higher for 50 year olds than 30 year olds, but sick and healthy 50 year olds living in the same area pay the same). If he gets government health coverage because he's on disability, this may not matter. On the other hand, you might find it better to put him on your employer's policy, because you like the coverage better, the employer covers part of the dependent premium, or some other reason. In any case, they can't discriminate against him or you based on his condition. ETA: Rates may vary by geography as well as age.


"Wow, a democrat killed one person... but under his watch, many many terrorist attacks inside the USA and a ""Nuclear deal"" that will surely prevent Iran from becoming like N Korea.  I am talking here about handling a rogue country... which got its nuclear abilities due to a ""Nuclear deal"" with Bill Clinton that included nuclear reactors supplied by the USA."


Fuck, I thought you were dumb but this takes the cake. The fact that no one has died (false), no one went to a concentration camp, or a nuclear war has started is your basis for him doing a good job?   Damn, I feel sorry for you kid. You must've had a really shitty life if that's the kind of expectations you set forth for the President of the US. Luckily, I don't have to deal with Trump much longer. You're gonna' wear his embarrassment on your face for the rest of your life.   Unfortunately for you baby, there's only 2 things in life I'm crazy about, and both have been going great for me:  1) Making money 2) Eating your mother's juicy ass  I'm not reading your embarrassing shitty troll comments any further so I wouldn't waste your pathetic breath. SOMEBODY GRAB A BODYBAG FOR THIS KID, HE JUST GOT KNOCKED THE FUCK OUT


The FDIC insures deposits up to $250,000 per depositor, per bank, for each ownership category.  The ownership categories are: You and a spouse could collectively have $750,000 of insured deposits at a single bank if you each had a single account, and a joint account together.


"Offtopic, but what do you think of the idea of the stock market being a ""ponzi scheme""? I've had this same idea that [Mark Cuban reiterated well by writing](http://blogmaverick.com/2008/09/08/talking-stocks-and-money/): >Ive said a lot of this before. The stock market is by definition a ponzi scheme. As long as money keeps on coming in, then there is someone to take the stocks from the sellers. If the amount of money coming in is reduced, the stocks, indexes, et al go down. What if, for who knows whatever reason, the amount of money going into stocks declined significantly ? Who would buy stock from the sellers. I mean goodness gracious, you could see something disastrous happen. Like the Nasdaq dropping from 5000, to under 2000 in just a few years. Its happened before, it can happen again. > >Which is exactly why we get all these nonsensical commercials from brokerages. To keep the money coming in . I wish someone would index the amount of money spent on marketing by mutual funds and brokerages to the Nasdaq and Dow and see if it correlates. > >Money inflows drives the business. We can get all the economic data we ever dreamed of getting, but if money inflows declined significantly for an extended period of time, then every rule of thumb would go out the window until money started flowing in. Yes it would flow in eventually as prices dropped. From big investors like me who wouldnt have gotten hurt by a huge market decline and could come in and buy huge chunks, or companies outright. > >You ? You probably would be like Charles Ponzi’s customers. You wouldnt be able to get your money out of the fund when it went down, and by the time you did, it would be too late. You would have been crushed. > >Ive said it before, a stock that doesnt pay dividends is valued like a baseball card. Just whatever you can sell it for. The concept that you own “your share” of the company is a joke. You are completely at the whim of the CEO and board who will dilute you on a daily basis with stock options, then try to buy back stock to cover it up and push up the price, rewarding the shareholders who get out, rather than those that continue to hold the shares. Meaning you. > >Have you ever seen Warren Buffet talk about buying 100 shares of anything k shares ? or does he take control of , or purchase a material percentage of a company ? > >If you have enough money to have influence , take control or buy it outright, then the stock market can work for you. Thats why I buy stock in public companies that relate to my other business entities. When i pick up the phone and call the CEO of a company i own shares in, they call me back very quickly. When I ask if there are business opportunities that make sense for the company and another company of mine to work together, I wont always get the business, but I will always get a meeting. If Im smart about the investments I make, the more important returns come from the relationships with the companies than the action of the stock. > >If the best you can do is buy shares that are going to be continuously diluted, then you are merely a sucker. There is a good chance that the shares you bought came from shares an insider who got stock options. You just helped dilute yourself with your first share purchase. > >The wealthy can make the stockmarket work for them. Individuals buying shares of stock in non dividend paying stocks… they work for the stockmarket. > >I know Ive painted a pretty bleak picture. > >The stockmarket isnt going away. Would it shock me if the whole thing collapsed ? yes. it would. Its just too engrained in our way of life in the USA. What would change my mind is if a better investment vehicle came along. > >The stockmarket used to be about investing capital in companies that came public or did secondary offerings. That money was used to create amazing businesses and return dividends back to people who truly were investors. There once was a day where most companies paid dividends higher than the interest rates on their bonds. Why ? Because stocks are inherently more risky. If a company goes belly up, bondholders collect first, shareholders usually last. People could buy and hold stocks, and get paid real cash money for being a shareholder in the company at rates far higher than the divident yields we see today. If the company did well, the dividends went up. Investors who held, actually got all their money back in dividends at some point and the rest was gravy. The good ole days. > >But that changed when mutual funds came along and started marketing the concept of growth as a way to attract investors. > >Its not inconceivable that the old mindset could comeback. That a new market of stocks could be created where companies didnt continuously dilute shareholders by issuing stock and options to themselves. Where earnings were earned for the same reason they are in private companies, to not only fund growth, but also provide cash back to investors. Now if that market existed today. Where I could buy 100 shares of stock, and even if it represented just 1/100000 of ownership in the company, I could have confidence that year after year, I would still own 1/100000th of that company, and if that company generated earnings , I would have at least some of that money returned to me. Well then, that wouldnt be a ponzi scheme. That would be a true market of stocks, and I would be happy to recommend to anyone to be careful, but buying stocks in that market could be something worth considering if your appetite for risk canhandle it."


You might also want to talk directly to a bank. If your credit report is clean, they may have some discretion in making the loan.  Note - the 'normal' fully qualified loan has two thresholds, 28% (of monthly income) for housing costs, 36% for all debt servicing. A personal, disclosed loan from a friend/family which is not secured against the house, would count as part of the other debt, as would a credit card. While I don't recommend using a credit card for this purpose, the debt fits in that 28-36 gap.  As Kevin points out below, not all paths are equally advisable. Nor are rules of thumb always true. Not having the OP's full details, income, assets, price of house, etc, this is just a list of things to consider. The use of a 401(k) loan in the US can be a great idea for some, bad mistake for others. This format doesn't make it easy to go into great detail, and I'm sure the 401(k) loan issue has been asked and answered in other questions. With respect to Kevin, if he wrote 'usually', I'd agree, but never say 'never.'


They're trying to keep their supposedly independent driver force indentured to them using whatever means available to them but it seems you don't pay much attention to what Uber is *actually* doing and instead view them as an idyllic libertarian icon.


"i think we are roughly in agreement, but i should stress:  > Can't blame capitalism for shitty politicians  shitty politicians are a natural result of capitalism out of control - the big owners call the shots. the politicians that take the bribes win elections bc the money buys exposure thru (once again private) media.   the politicians with any amount of ethics or servitude to their electorate will be starved of funds. they tend to lose. the evolution of the honorable politician to the corrupt one has been a consequence of obscene money. the sort of money that apple et al make. or the most insidious: the federal reserve, which is PRIVATELY owned by a cabal of the richest bankers. they get to print money to ""lend"" to the government at interest whenever the gov needs to issue bonds. they determine interest rates. their objective is to make more money for themselves. they are not there to provide a service to the people.   TL;DR you cannot get non-shitty politicians without controlling capitalism. adam smith warned us 250 years ago in his seminal wealth of nations that a business-dominated political system would allow a conspiracy of businesses and industry against consumers:  ""the interest of manufacturers and merchants .. in any particular branch of trade or manufactures, is always in some respects different from, and even opposite to, that of the public ... The proposal of any new law or regulation of commerce which comes from this order, ought always to be listened to with great precaution, and ought never be adopted till after having been long and carefully examined, not only with the most scrupulous, but with the most suspicious attention."""


A socialist government mismanaging the economy?  Say it ain't so!  Cut taxes, liberalize the labor force and employment laws, reduce government services and welfare, encourage entrepreneurship, eliminate barriers to international trade.  This is not rocket science.  Get your shit together, France.


Generally, unless you're doing a wire transfer, bank transactions are processed in batches overnight. So the credit card company won't be able to confirm your transfer until the next business day (it may take even longer for them to actually receive the money).


This greatly depends on the local laws and the insurance contract terms. If I remember correctly, my own life insurance policy does also have special terms in case I die within a year of applying, so it doesn't sound totally bogus. For car loan insurance, the amount of coverage and premiums were probably low enough for the insurer not to want to spend the money upfront on the thorough investigation, but they probably do have a clause that covers them in case the insured passes away unreasonably quickly (unreasonably for a healthy person of the given age, that is).


I'm guessing the gist of your comment is that if Amazon were to use HQ2 to staff new projects that explode in headcount, it will be able to grow the new campus exceptionally rapidly. I guess that's a possible future.  I would, however, be mildly surprised if upper management has enough of those sorts of ideas ready to go to round out a 50k campus. To reiterate: I highly suspect this is just Amazon alleviating its real estate crunch in Seattle. It's not being built to fulfill any grand secret plans so much as just being able to gradually spread out a little more. (Not that there won't be any grand secret plans, just that it's not the point.)


You can do FOK on both market and limit orders. Normal market orders will partial fill if you want more shares than are being offered, or if someone pulled their order before you get there and now there are fewer shares than you placed a trade for. With a FOK limit order not at the BBO you are shooting in the dark for a quick match, most of the time it does not fill.  This is a commonly used order type for UHFT arbitrage.  Some exchanges will not attempt to cross it for a match if its price is not at, or better than the market price. When the FOK limit order is at the BBO it is essentially a FOK market order.   FYI: Sometimes you have a minimum quantity to fill option, so you can let the order sit on the book until it fills or you cancel.


Does anyone know is it wise to invest money in NPS for tax saving ? This is primarily opinion based. NPS is efficient retirement plan, allows to invest into Index equities with almost NIL expense ratios. The additional tax breaks makes the overall returns attractive. The down side is 40% of corpus withdrawal is tax free, the balance 60% is taxable; alternatively one can buy annuity to make it tax free.


Set up a company or partnership. Generally what you describe is a classic partnership. In the US - the partnership itself is not taxed (as opposed to a corporation), and each partner is taxed separately on the distributions. That is, the partners as a whole will be taxed on the income of one, if it is distributed through the partnership. Exactly what you want. Do consult with a tax adviser familiar with the Federal and the State laws with the specifics of setting it up and managing it, maybe you'll get a better advice from a professional (which I am not, of course).


Some companies allow you to make a post-tax contribution to the 401K. This is not a Roth contribution. This can be money beyond the 18,000 or 24,000 401k limit. The best news is that eventually that money can be rolled into 1 Roth-IRA. Not all companies allow this option. One company I worked for did this automatically when you hit the annual max. Of course that was made more complex if you had multiple employers that year.


There was one in the economist recently. Issue at end of April, something about relation between minimum wage increases correlated with number of lower rated restaurants on yelp going out of business. It's in the washroom and I'm lazy or I would go get it.   e: Sorry, it was actually very short and general.


I do my best to find the best prices for high quality -- and if you are lucky enough to have a great local natural chain that's cheaper, that's great. For me, I know WF so well I can usually get the best deals there, but every once in a while I find a better option elsewhere.


You could buy Bitcoins. They are even more deflationary than Swiss Francs.  But the exchange rate is currently high, and so is the risk in case of volatility.  So maybe buy an AltCoin instead. See altcoin market capitalization for more information. Basically, all you'd be doing is changing SwissFrancs into Bitcoin/AltCoin.  You don't need a bank to store it. You don't need to stockpile cash at home.  Stays liquid, there's no stock portfolio (albeit a coin portfolio), unlike in stocks there are no noteworthy buy and sell commissions, and the central bank can't just change the bills as in classic-cash-currency.  The only risk is volatility in the coin market, which is not necessarely a small risk.  Should coins have been going down, then for as long as you don't need that money and keep some for everyday&emergency use on a bank account, you can just wait until said coins re-climb - volatility goes both ways after all.


This investment does not have a payback period as the net present value of your investment is negative. Your investment requires an initial cash outlay of $40,000 followed by annual savings of $2060 for the next 20 years. Your discount rate is 5% at which the NPV is $-14327.85 as calculated below by using this JavaScript financial functions library tadJS that is based on a popular tadXL add-in for Excel 2007, 2010 and 2013.


Check out Khan Academy if you get a chance - they have a large suite of finance/capital market video clips that cover a lot of the basics of financial theory in short, manageable clips that might be suitable for someone in high school.


More than 90 of [land for sale in Texas](http://www.texashuntingland.com/) for 2009 were bought from searching the net. How would you use the internet to greatest market your land or home? According to the NAR (National Realtors Affiliation) more than ninety of men and women that bought land last 12 months started their search on the web.


"There's a fair amount of evidence in general that those who complain loudest when doors are opened to new groups are the ones most at risk of losing status to members of those groups. You may observe the same set of complaints happening around immigration policy discussions. I actually had only considered this ""mediocre man"" problem in those terms and had completely failed to recognize that it applied to gender as well."


"With 40% of your take-home available, you have a golden opportunity here. Actually two, and the second builds out easily from the first.  Golden Opportunity # 1: Layoff Immunity Ok, not really immunity. Most people don't think of themselves getting laid off, and don't prepare. Of course it may not happen to you, but it can. It's happened to me twice. The layoff itself is an emotional burden (getting rejected is hard), but then you're suddenly faced with a gut-wrenching, ""how am I gonna pay the rent????"" If you have no savings, it's terrifying. Put yourself in that spot. Imagine that tomorrow, you're out of a job. For how many months could you pay your expenses with the money you have? Three months? One? Not even that?  How about shooting for 12 months? It's really, really comforting to be able to say: ""I don't have to worry about it for a year"". 12 months saved up gives you emotional and financial stability, and it gives you options -- you don't have to take the first job that comes along.  Now, saving 12 months of expenses is huge. But, you're in the wonderful spot where you can save 40% of your income. It would only take 2.5 years to save up a year's worth of income! But, actually, it's better than that. Because your 12-month Layoff Immunity fund doesn't have to include the amount for retirement, or taxes, or that 40% we're talking about. Your expenses are less than 60% of take-home -- you'd only need 12 months of that. So, you could have a fully funded 12-Month Layoff Immunity Fund only in a year and a half!  Golden Opportunity #2: Freedom Fund Do you like your Job? Would you still do it, if you didn't need the money? If so, great. But if not, why not get yourself into a position where you don't need it? That is, build up enough money from saving and investing to where you can pay your expenses - forever - from your investments. The number to keep in mind is 25. Figure out your annual expenses, and multiply it by 25. That's the amount you'd need to never need a job again. (That works out to a 4% withdrawal rate, adjusting for inflation every year, with a low risk of running out of money. It's a rule of thumb, but smart people doing a lot of math worked it out.) Here you keep saving and investing that 40% in solid mutual funds in a regular, taxable account. Between your savings and the compounding returns off the investments, you could easily have a fully funded ""Freedom Fund"" by the time you're 50. In fact, by 45 isn't unreasonable.  It could be even better. If you live in that high-rent area because of the job, and wouldn't mind living were the rents are lower once you quit, your target amount would be lower. Between that, working dedicatedly toward this goal, and maybe a little luck, you might even be able to do this by age 40.  Final Thoughts There are other things you could put that money toward, like a house, of course. The key take-away here, is to save it, and invest it.  You're in a unique position of being able to do that with 40% of your income. That's fabulous! But don't think it's the norm. Most people can't save that much, and, once you lose the ability to save that much, it's very difficult to get it back. Expenses creep in, lifestyle ""wants"" become ""needs"", and so on. If you get into the habit of spending it, it's very difficult to shrink your lifestyle back down - down to what right now you're perfectly comfortable with. So, spend some time figuring out what you want out of life -- and in the mean time, sock that 40% away."


Buffet is able to do many things the average investor cannot do.  For example: During the 2008 market crash Buffet purchased 5 Billion on Citi preferred stock (as somewhat of a bail out) that pays 5% Dividend. Then he also received warrants to buy another 700 million shares over the next 10 years where he can buy shares at 5% discount. So right off the bat he is up 5% anytime he buys some of those 700 million shares. http://dealbook.nytimes.com/2011/08/25/buffett-to-invest-5-billion-in-bank-of-america/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0 This is just one of the Buffet deal makings. With his cash you can move markets.  He buys, people hear about it, they buy, his positions go up.  Put that aside he loans cash, gets interest, buys companies. It is more than just investing in the stock market.


No, look:  Say a company needs to get $100 per solar panel to make a profit.  But a consumer only wants to pay $80 for a solar panel, otherwise it isn't worth it.  So, we have two options:  1. We offer a tax reduction to the consumer of $20.  They now pay $100 for the solar panel, and get $20 back.  The customer has now effectively paid $80 and the company has got $100.   Or,  2. We give the company a subsidy for $20 per panel.  They now sell the solar panel for $80, then get $20 in subsidy.  The customer has now paid $80 and the company has got $100.  You're against the 2nd option, in favour of the first.  Have I understood you correctly?


You will have to write it off as an offset of capital gains or as bad debt against personal income, limited to $3k/ yr. Write off 3k this year, 2k next. Here's the tax code, you'll need to file a form 8949, link below. https://www.irs.gov/taxtopics/tc450/tc453 So, this requires that it is a loan, acknowledged by both you and the borrower, with terms of repayment and stated interest, as well as wording for late payments and time for delinquency.  The loan document doesn't have to be fancy, but it must show a reasonable intention of repayment to distinguish it from a gift.  Then send out a 1099c for cancellation of debt. This is a starting point, it's a good idea to run everything by your tax processional to make sure you're meeting the requirements for bad debt with your contact and payment communication.


"All of the insurance policies I'm familiar with have different costs for liability vs replacement coverage of the specific item. Typically liability insurance is very cheap by comparison, and is therefore a ""must-strongly-consider"". Insuring your specific item is up to you, and depends on how badly you'll feel if you lose it to theft or destruction. Even if you choose not to insure your boat for replacement value, don't forgo liability though, for if you hit something expensive, or if someone is severely injured or killed as a result of an action related to your boat, your outlay could be extremely high."


"You seem to have it right.  Unless you have a big position, having MLP shares in your IRA will not cause you any tax hassles.  Your IRA will get a Schedule K from the MPL (which may be mailed to you), but you won't need to do anything with that unless you're over the UBI limit.  Last I checked, that was $1000, and you probably won't exceed that. UBI in principle needs to be evaluated every year, so it's not necessarily a ""one-time"" event.  If your IRA does go over the UBI limit, your IRA (not you) needs to file a return.  In that case, contact your custodian and tell them about the Schedule K that you got. See also my answer here: Tax consequences of commodity ETF The question is about commodity ETFs in IRAs, but the part of my answer about UBI applies equally well."


The numbers you provided would just barely make it (depending on taxes where you are), and I'd say there's lots of room to cut expenses back if need be. The big assumption is that your fiancé will have a steady income of over $3k/mo take-home. My advice would be to keep your job until you see that as a reality.  That said, getting an education is, imho, the single most important thing you can do. In the long run, it's worth eating ramen noodles and rice and beans for a couple years. It's even worth going into debt. (It took me nearly 10 years to pay off my student loans. No regrets here.) While working your way through school is noble and it's great if you can do it, being able to focus on your studies is what will make it worthwhile.  It sounds to me like you're on the right track.


The majority of illegal immigrants do not work in the field of agriculture. That being said work visas to fill needed niches such as field farm work can be applied for and permitted so that farmers can have the LEGAL foreign workers they need allowed into the country given any legitimate demonstrated need for that industry. The problem is that then these workers would be much more protected then a class of workers who are essentially illegal immigrants and who do work off the books and out of sight and management of the federal government's ability to track them and if need be offer them actual protections as foreign workers on a visa work permit.


Should I use the money to pay off student loans and future grad expenses for me? Yes.  The main drawback to student loans is that they cannot be gotten rid of except by paying them off (other than extreme circumstances such as death or complete disability).  A mortgage, car loan, or other collateralized loans can be dealt with by selling the underlying collateral.  Credit card loans can be discharged in bankruptcy. Stop borrowing for college, pay for it in cash, then decide what to do with the rest. Make sure you have a comfortable amount saved for emergencies in a completely liquid account (not a retirement account or CDs), and continue to pay off with the rest.  You might also consider putting some away for your kids' college, so  I want to get my older son into a private middle school for 2 years. They have a hardy endowment and may offer us a decent need based scholarship if we look worthy on paper I have a hard time getting behind this plan with a 238K mortgage.  If you want to apply for scholarships that's great - but don't finagle your finances to look like you're poor when you have a quarter-million-dollar house.  If you want to save some for private school then do that out of what you have.  Otherwise either rearrange your priorities so you can afford it or private school might not be in the cards for you. That said- while it was a blessing to be able to pay off the second mortgage and credit cards, your hesitancy to pay off the student loans makes me wonder if you will start living within your means after the loans are paid off.  My concern is that your current spending levels that got you in this much debt in the first place will put you back in debt in the near future, and you won't have another inheritance to help pull you out. I know that wasn't your question, but I felt like I needed to add that to my answer as well.


You didn't put what country you're in, so I'll work off the basis you're in the United States. I think you're going to have a very hard time accomplishing what you're talking about after such an extraordinary amount of time.  One has to assume that there would still be records that could be retrieved in order for anyone to determine the amount you'd have to pay, and after 40 years, the paper records would be long gone.  It's possible there might be microfiche somewhere, but I wouldn't have a clue how easy or possible it would be for it to be retrieved.   I assume you're wanting to repay this as a way to boost Social Security or other government benefits in your retirement, but it's really hard to say whether repaying the rebated money would make much, if any, difference.   This is really something you'll have to contact the IRS about, but unless they are trying to collect funds from you that they say you owe then it's highly unlikely they have any record of what you're asking about, and they probably don't even have a mechanism for accepting and crediting such monies.  The real issue here is the amount of time that has passed, because there would be little compelling reason for the government to keep detailed records (they perhaps maintain summaries, but little else) for extended periods.  We all have the impression the government knows all and never forgets, but that simply isn't the case.


"Yes, you could sell what you have and bet against others that the stock price will continue to fall within a period of time ""Shorting"".  If you're right, your value goes UP even though the stock price goes down. This is a pretty darn risky bet to make.  If you're wrong, there's no limit to how much money you can owe.  At least with stocks they can only fall to zero!  When you short, and the price goes up and up and up (before the deadline) you owe it! And just as with stocks, someone else has to agree to take the bet.  If a stock is pretty obviously tanking, its unlikely that someone would oppose your bet. (It's probably pretty clear that I barely know what I'm talking about, but I was surprised not to see this listed among the answers.)"


You could walk away from your mortgage.  When you signed the mortgage you and the bank agreed that if you stopped making payments the bank would get the house.  Give them the house.  Of course this would be a huge hit to your credit score and you would probably not be able to obtain another mortgage at a decent rate for at least 7 years.  You may have trouble obtaining other financing as well (i.e. auto loans).  If you plan on moving to an apartment and don't need to finance car purchases this may be OK.


"Well, to be fair, it certainly wasn't a priority for the government to oversee account-opening operations at the branch level, and I'm sure if they did there would be deafening noise about overreach.  I'm sure that there could be some productive changes made to the CFPB, but as is a theme among the GOP these days, all they want to do is negate every regulation made since 2008 out of spite--or at least that's what it seems like to me.  This bill goes way too far in the opposite direction and is a danger to the economy--particularly among those of us who chose to leave big banks for smaller banks, who now have carte blanche to gamble in order to ""compete"" with the big guys. Looks to me like a strategy to discredit smaller banks in the end."


What legal way can I take what I am owed from this guy? The legal ways are for this guy to transfer you the money or give you instructions that will allow you to get the money.  Alternatively you would need to file a civil suite to recover the funds. What illegal way do people use this info if they had it? I don't want to get in trouble, but I'm just curious because you always hear how easy it is. There are quite a few illegal ways. I don't think this is the right forum to discuss this.


The manual setup of the Netgear extender is bit confusing but if you do not have WPS button then this is the only method left by which you can set up your extender. For the issues related to domain name mywifiext.net, feel free to get in touch with us.


"You ask two questions - First - the market value can drop for two reasons (that I know), the company itself may have issues, and investors don't trust they'll be paid, or a general rise in interest rates. In the latter case, there's little to worry about, but for the former, well, that's your decision, you say ""the company is in trouble"" yet you believe they'll pay. Tough call. Second - yes, when a bond matures, the money appears in your account."


"Whoa. These things are on two dimensions.  It's like burger and fries, you can also have chicken sandwich and fries, or burger and onion rings.   You can invest in an taxable brokerage account and/or an IRA.  And then, within each of those...  You can buy index funds and/or anything else. All 4 combinations are possible.  If someone says otherwise, take your money and run.  They are a shady financial ""advisor"" who is ripping you off by steering you only into products where they get a commission. Those products are more expensive because the commission comes out of your end.  Not to mention any names.  E.J.    If you want financial advice that is honest, find a financial advisor who you pay for his advice, and who doesn't sell products at all.  Or, just ask here.  But I would start by listening to Suze Orman, Dave Ramsey, whomever you prefer.  And read John Bogle's book.   They can tell you all about the difference between money market, bonds, stocks, managed mutual funds (ripoff!) and index funds. IRA accounts, Roth IRA accounts and taxable accounts are all brokerage accounts.  Within them, you can buy any security you want, including index funds.  The difference is taxation.  Suppose you earn $1000 and choose to invest it however  Later you withdraw it and it has grown to $3000.  Investing in a taxable account, you pay normal income tax on the $1000. When you later withdraw the $3000, you pay a tax on $2000 of income.  If you invested more than a year, it is taxed at a much lower ""capital gains"" tax rate.  With a traditional IRA account, you pay zero taxes on the initial $1000.  Later, when you take the money out, you pay normal income tax on the full $3000.  If you withdrew it before age 59-1/2, you also pay a 10% penalty ($300).  With a Roth IRA account, you pay normal income tax on the $1000.  When you withdraw the $3000 later, you pay NOTHING in taxes.  Provided you followed the rules.   You can invest in almost anything inside these accounts: Money market funds. Terrible return.  You won't keep up with the market.  Bonds.  Low return but usually quite safe.  Individual stocks.  Good luck.   Managed mutual funds.  You're paying some genius stock picker to select high performing stocks. He has a huge staff of researchers and  good social connections.  He also charges you 1.5% per year overhead as an ""expense ratio"", which is a total loss to you.  The fact is, he can usually pick stocks better than a monkey throwing darts.  But he's not 1.5% better!  Index funds.  These just shrug and buy every stock on the market.  There's no huge staff or genius manager, just some intern making small adjustments every week.  As such, the expense ratio is extremely small, like 0.1%.    If any of these investments pay dividends, you must pay taxes on them when they're issued, if you're not in an IRA account.  This problem gets fixed in ETF's.  Index ETF's.  These are index funds packaged to behave like stocks.  Dividends increase your stock's value instead of being paid out to you, which simplifies your taxes.  If you buy index funds outside of an IRA, use these.  Too many other options to get into here."


Yea I'm super confused about why this is being touted as some revenge fantasy on corporate overlords, or something. She was hired to do a job, got paid to do it, and was no longer required to do the job.  I don't still get residual paychecks from my first job out of college, and they don't get to call me up and ask me to do a process analysis- I did my job and now I do another one (for someone else). What obligation does an organization have to an employee beyond a paycheck....?


Determine how much you are going to save first.  Then determine where you can spend your money.  If you're living with your parents, try to build an emergency fund of six months income.  The simplest way is to put half of your income in the emergency fund for a year.   Try to save at least 10% of your income for retirement.  The earlier you start this, the longer you'll have to let the magic of compounding work on it.  If your employer offers a 401k with a match, do that first.  If not, consider an IRA.  You probably want to do a Roth now (because you probably pay little in taxes so the deduction from a standard IRA won't help you).   After the year, you'll have an emergency fund.  Work out how much money you'll need for rent, utilities, and groceries when you're on your own.  Invest that in some way.  Pay off student loans if you have any.  Buy a car that you can keep a long time if you need one.  Go to night school.  Put any excess money in a savings account or mutual fund.  This is money for doing things related to housing.  Perhaps you'll need to buy a washer/dryer.  Or pay a down payment on a mortgage eventually.   Saving this money now does two things:  first, it gives you savings for when you need it; second, it keeps you from getting used to spending your entire paycheck.  If you are used to only having $200 of spending cash out of each check, you will fit your spending into that.  If you are used to spending $800 every two weeks, it will be hard to cut your spending to make room for rent, etc.


"Remember this gush-a-thon when everything you can buy comes from the Amazon [chaebol](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaebol).  Only on this site could there be a cult surrounding a predatory reptile who would make the Rockefellers and JP Morgan squirm.  You've been sucked in again; just like with Saint Elon and the Martyred Steve. Those 'disruptors', putting it to the ""man"" from their little garages, until they inevitably become what they conquered."


"Say we have stock XYZ that costs $50 this second. It doesn't cost XYZ this second. The market price only reflects the last price at which the security traded. It doesn't mean that if you'll get that price when you place an order. The price you get if/when your order is filled is determined by the bid/ask spreads. Why would people sell below the current price, and not within the range of the bid/ask? Someone may be willing to sell at an ask price of $47 simply because that's the best price they think they can sell the security for. Keep in mind that the ""someone"" may be a computer that determined that $47 is a reasonable ask price. Remember that bid/ask spreads aren't fixed, and there can be multiple bid/ask prices in a market at any given time. Your buy order was filled because at the time, someone else in the market was willing to sell you the security for the same price as your bid price. Your respective buy/sell orders were matched based on their price (and volume, conditional orders, etc). These questions may be helpful to you as well: Can someone explain a stock's ""bid"" vs. ""ask"" price relative to ""current"" price? Bids and asks in case of market order Can a trade happen ""in between"" the bid and ask price? Also, you say you're a day trader. If that's so, I strongly recommend getting a better grasp on the basics of market mechanics before committing any more capital. Trading without understanding how markets work at the most fundamental levels is a recipe for disaster."


Since I haven't seen it in any of the comments so far, there's another reason - automation or obsoletion.  How soon will we no longer need humans to work as machinists? I have no experience with the trade, so I certainly couldn't say. It's natural for labor needs to shift over time, but if they are shifting more quickly, and while shifting are also dwindling, one would imagine that it's more a difficult for a worker to stomach going to another trade school to pick up another trade that won't pay as well and for which the demand may evaporate, since they are less familiar with the prospects of its automation.


"Another option you might consider is rolling over some of that 401K balance into a self-directed IRA or Solo 401K, specifically one with ""checkbook privileges"". That would permit you to invest directly in a property via your IRA/401K money without it being a loan, and preserving the tax benefits. (You may not be able to roll over from your current employer's 401K while still employed.)  That said, regarding your argument that your loan is ""paying interest to yourself"", while that is technically true, that neglects the opportunity cost -- that money could potentially be earning a much higher (and tax-free) return if it remains in the 401K account than if you take it out and slowly repay it at a modest interest rate. Real Estate can be a great way to diversify, build wealth, and generate income, but a company match and tax-free growth via an employee sponsored retirement account can be a pretty sweet deal too (I actually recently wrote about comparing returns from having a tenant pay your mortgage on a rental property vs. saving in a retirement account on my blog -- in short, tax-free stock-market level returns are pretty compelling, even when someone else is paying your mortage). Before taking rather big steps like borrowing from a 401K or buying a rental property, you might also explore other ways to gain some experience with real estate investing, such as the new crop of REITs open to all investors under SEC Reg A+, some with minimums of $500 or less. In my own experience, there are two main camps of real estate investors: (1) those that love the diversification and income, but have zero interest in active management, and (2) those that really enjoy real estate as a lifestyle and avocation, happy to deal with tenant screening and contractors, etc. You'll want to be careful to be sure which camp you're in before signing on to active investment in a specific property."


I did read the article. I'm very surprised that such a simple and alternative idea was poorly received, but I have a feeling it's because you didn't read my response carefully enough. The 3-5 years which you took to mean the training time, was presented as the commitment in return for free training, which I expected would take around 6-12 months. The candidates suggested would already have Master's Degrees in other fields, and so it's to be expected they'll need around 30-60 hours to train them to an academic level. Full time this should only take a year.   An H1-B visa takes around 6 months to process, and when you factor in the amount of time it takes someone to actually move from a foreign country, it can easily be faster to train than transport. In any case, you could do both while you transition to a training process.  Here's an article on the processes that I am discussing where Peter Capelli is interviewed by the Wharton Business School. The gist of it is that because companies control every aspect of the hiring and job creation process, it is a large part of the fault on their shoulders when they 'can't find the right person.'   http://knowledge.wharton.upenn.edu/article.cfm?articleid=3027  Thanks for playing.