Q: I have this problem with my bell peppers. This is the second year in a row this has happened to the peppers while still on the plant. Some get the spots while still very small and some while quite large ready to pick. Can you tell me what to do so to prevent this from happening?
A: Ron's problem, would appear to be the same problem many gardeners are experiencing with their tomatoes — blossom-end rot. In peppers, it normally appears as a small brown spot on the side of the pepper, toward the blossom end. And, as with tomatoes, it is a calcium deficiency in the plant that causes the problem. It is not usually a lack of calcium in the soil but problems in the ability of the plant to take up and use the calcium already available.
Things to check:
•Test garden soil for a pH around 6.5. This pH allows the plant to
extract available calcium from the soil. Only if a soil test comes back with recommendations for altering the pH or, very rarely, an actual calcium deficiency should you consider adding calcium.
•Excessive foliar growth, over fertilization during the fruiting process can affect calcium intake and distribution. Do not feed with a high nitrogen fertilizer once the plant begins to flower.
•Stress from drought or irregular watering fluctuations can cause problems. Keep plants evenly watered, supplementing rainfall during dry periods. Additionally, mulch will conserve moisture, reduce watering needs and keep soil temperatures more even.
For additional information on blossom-end rot on peppers, tomatoes and eggplant, read the Ohio State fact sheet (http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3117.html).
Bacterial spot was another consideration, however, this would appear on other parts of the plant as well. The spots on the peppers themselves begin as green spots, circular and raised, progress to brown and cork-like. This does not match Ron's description.
Bacterial spot considerations:
The bacterium responsible for the problem winter over in crop residue left in the garden, in seeds (for up to 10 years) or in host plants (nightshade and ground cherries, for example). Contamination spreads from plant to plant by splashing up on plants or working in fields while plants are wet.
•Use fresh seed or healthy transplants from reliable vendors.
•Select resistant varieties. No variety is resistant to all strains of bacteria but offer some protection.
•Clear infected debris.
•Keep surrounding area free of host plants.
•Do not work on plants when they are wet.
See the Ohio State Extension fact sheet
(http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3123.html) for pictures and additional information.
Q:I have a major problem with my lawn. It is about a ¾-acre lot. I have about 1/3 of the lawn being strangled by a weed, which looks like strawberries. From time to time there will be small berries. Last year I re-seeded some of my yard where I landscaped, and that area is beginning to have the same problem. What can be done about this problem?
A: Although wild strawberries are found in our locale, the most likely weed is Indian mock strawberry (Potentilla indica, formerly Duchesnea indica), identified by the yellow flower petals and dry, bumpy fruit.
Wild strawberries and their much more common look-alikes are some of the most difficult weeds to control. The plants spread by seed and runners. Individual plants are easy to pull out. However, the attached runners must be removed or the plants will continue to grow and spread.
•Constant pulling could, over time, remove the problem but it is an
intensive and long process. Nor is it practical for a large area.
•Select flame weeding will also work, but it would still be difficult
to get the entire weed without killing any grass.
•Create the ideal growing conditions for your grass and crowd out any weeds.
oCorrect drainage problems (too much water)
oMulching clippings into the lawn (return nitrogen to the lawn)
oClearing and reseed thin or bare spots (reduce soil exposed to weed seed).
•Use an acetic herbicide such as Burnout (a vinegar solution with
lemon and other oils). It is nonselective and will kill whatever it touches. Apply carefully so that it is applied only to the weed plants.
•A third option would be to use a broadleaf weed killer that
specifically lists wild strawberries/Indian mock strawberry/Potentilla indica/Duchesnea indica as a targeted weed.
•One could also kill the entire lawn and start over. But then,
remember that weed seed is still viable for many years in the soil.
Wind-borne seed will blow in. And finally, it is the bare soil and thin lawn that allows weeds to get a foothold.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden writer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at email@example.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
This Week in the Garden
•Start pansy seeds to transplant in fall and bloom in early spring.
•Sow seeds that need a cold period for germination, poppies, for example.
•Drain containers of standing water, breeding ponds for mosquitoes.
•Asters and mums are starting to appear on the market. Start thinking
about adding to your fall display, either in the garden or as part of a container display.
•Hold off planting perennials, shrubs and trees. Gather unplanted
pots together and water regularly until cooler fall/late summer weather.
•Harvest regularly, at least every other day.
•Remove spent plants and compost healthy ones. Do not put diseased or
infested plants in the compost pile. Check for pests, fungus and disease; early control is the key to success.
•Plant leafy greens for salads this fall.
•Order garlic and spring-flowering bulbs, flower and fruit plants,
and shrubs for fall planting. Shop nurseries for end-of-season bargains or new fall arrivals.
•Water potted plants regularly but only as needed, daily during hot
dry weather, sparingly if at all during rainy periods. Plants on sunny patios or driveways may need watering more than once a day. Check daily.
•Water any newly planted trees or shrubs any week when we receive
less than an inch of rain. Regular watering is essential as the plants settle in and reestablish their roots.
•Deadhead flowers regularly to encourage rebloom and avoid wasting plant energy making seeds. Remove flower stalks from hostas and daylilies. Cut back spent phlox, monarda or black-eyed susans.
•Weed regularly and cut off flowers of any weeds you don't get to.
•Check for ticks after every outing. Wear light colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in grassy areas or under overhanging branches.
•Lawns: Cut lawns only when needed; use fresh gas and a sharp blade.
•Continue to feed birds regularly and provide fresh water. They need to build strength and stamina for the winter.