Question: My crop of green peppers has been a failure. What is the secret to growing this vegetable?
Answer: Adding pepper plants to the garden or large container in either March or August is the best way to start this crop. Make sure peppers have a full day of sun and keep the soil moist. Fertilize every three to four weeks with a general garden fertilizer or use a slow-release product as labeled.
Mites can be a problem, causing the new growths to twist and appear stunted. Use an insecticidal soap or Neem oil spray at first signs of damage, following label instructions. Sweet bell peppers decline or stop fruiting during summer, but hot peppers continue producing.
Q: Many lawns in our neighborhood turned brown during recent dry weather. How long will it take them to recover?
A: Gardeners did not have a problem spotting dry spots during May. Even with irrigation, it may not have been enough water during the hot, dry and low-humidity weather. Some irrigation systems did a poor job of moistening fringe areas, and the grass declined.
Many brown areas are making a good recovery. They should fill in with the green you remember by mid-summer if seasonal rains continue. If bare spots are noted and the runners are dead, it is about time to fill larger areas with sod or plugs. Have no doubt weeds are waiting to re-green these areas if they remain barren much longer.
Q: I am doing my best to control nematodes in my garden. Are there any vegetables not affected by these pests?
A: Vegetable gardeners are sure to meet up with root knot nematodes, causing roots to swell and crops to give poor production. Some techniques including soil solarization, using resistant cover crops and adding organic matter to the soil helps reduce nematode populations. But still nematodes are bound to have some effect on the plantings. Nematode-resistant varieties could help.
Crops like tomatoes and sweet potatoes may have resistant varieties less likely to be affected by root knot nematodes. Regretfully, there are several types of this nematode and crop resistance varies. So when available, plant crops that offer resistance but don’t count on it for total control. Cool season vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower, are not resistant but grow when nematodes are less active. The cool season crops seem to give good productions even in soil with root knot nematode populations.
Q: I harvested southern pea seed and would like to keep it to grow another crop. How long do I dry the seed before putting it in the freezer?
A: Pea seeds saved from dry pods should be about ready for storage. Give it a week or two in a low light area of the home and then place them in a plastic bag or sealed container. Store the seeds in the refrigerator and not the freezer. Seeds can be stored in a freezer but only if the moisture content is very low. Normally seeds gardeners prepare for storage have too high moisture content and the refrigerator is best.
Q: Once again crabgrass is creeping into my St. Augustine lawn. What can I do to get it under control?
A: Many gardeners would like an easy control for crabgrass in the St. Augustine lawn, but none is available. Garden centers do not have an effective product and neither do lawn care services. Some use a home remedy of lightly dusting baking soda over the turf in the late afternoon around dusk and report good success suppressing the crabgrass. It appears baking soda acts as a contact herbicide, but the crabgrass can grow back.
Other residents dig out or spot kill the affected area and add new turf. Some mow the crabgrass as it does produce a green cover for summer. Until a new control is available, crabgrass can only be selectively removed from zoysia and bermuda lawns.
Q: I have not trimmed my in-ground poinsettias. Is there still time, and if so, how much pruning can I do?
A: Gardeners like to give poinsettias a heavy pruning during early spring. Most plants are cut to within 12-18 inches of the ground. But it’s now summer, and you are a little behind. Possibly a trimming back to two or three feet above the ground may be more appropriate.
After major pruning, the plants are allowed to produce a foot of new growth. Then 4-6 inches of growth is removed from the tips of the new shoots. The plants are allowed to continue making another foot of growth and are similarly pruned as needed throughout the summer. A final pruning is provided in late August to allow the shoots to mature and produce the December color.