What is the natural gas detection threshold; "0.1%-0.3%" as stated on the webpage, or "LEL: 5.0 % Vol / HEL (UEL) 15.0 % Vol" as on the instructions that came with it? Even at the MINIMUM difference (using the .3% as shown on the webpage, and 5% on the...
10380
This is a cheap device and I wouldn't trust the numbers provided. I tested it by turning on my gas stovetop and putting it right up next to the gas for about 3 minutes and it never alarmed. So I returned it.
2242907
From the manual... CO displays from 30 to 999 pm. Alarms at 70 ppm within 60 minutes, 150 ppm 10 - 50 minutes, 400 ppm 4-15 minutes. For methane displays "GAS" . Will alarm before gas reaches 25% of lower explosive limit.
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Hi D.A. I have one (purchased through Amazon) and the 1503 is a fine little pocket Geiger counter. Be sure to read the manual and understand its operation --cumulative 160 second timed averaging in particular. In answer: while food that's 100 or 1000 times more radioactive than the "safe to eat" limit^ might be noticed when scanned with the RD-1503, no Geiger counter can read food or beverage as being safe, nor can specific isotopes be identified for sure. That takes training, discipline, seasoned experience and thousands of dollars worth of gamma spectrometry equipment. The FDA and your state health department should be doing this work --but they seem to not want to know --or want us to know. ^ Interestingly, Japan's limit for radioactivity in seafood is 100 Bq/kilogram, while ours and Canada's is 1200 Bq/kilogram. It would be a crying shame if our fishing industry got put out of business simply for lack of testing and/or consumer confidence.
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This is natural gas. Abbreviation in descriptions will be "NG" for natural gas, or "LP" for liquid propane. They make conversion kits to switch between the two but I would highly recommend getting the correct type of unit from the start. The kits are expensive and often not all that easy to install.
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The Frigidaire GRLP3 Conversion Kit contains many different size orifices. Each of your burners uses one orifice. You will only use a fraction of the ones in this kit. There is a small number on the side of each one to identify what size it is. The instructions will tell which ones to use depending on the size of the existing orifice you take out of your natural gas stove. Take care not to drop any inside the stove. They will be difficult to retrieve if you do. Read the instructions step by step and you should be fine. Frank
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I am using natural gas for my fuel source. Natural gas burns almost 99.9% pure. I had the same concerns you did but when I did the research I found that there is little to no risk if installed properly. As far as the moisture is concerned, it only acts as a benefit. When you use a fuel-burning source in the winter the moisture will naturally humidify your house. We have never had a problem with excess water at all. I would recommend getting a digital carbon monoxide tester. Dangerous levels are around 99 ppm my system has never registered anything over zero. I am very pleased with this product!
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It's actually just R 1.04 (very low) - unless you put a continuous 3/4" air gap around it with spacers - which almost no one ever does. Then it goes up to R-4 or something. Here's a balanced article with the pros and cons: http://bit.ly/a4VRz0The stuff is pretty and easy to work with and I used it one some ducts in my basement. But know its limits and certainly don't mistake it for "high performance". The stuff is only 5/16" thick and you can't magically change the laws of physics with shiny foil.
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I looked at the user's manual and it did not list the level of detection. However, the unit has worked without a problem. It was installed new in March of 2013. Hope this helps.
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I bought those too, the readings with the no-calibration strips still came out as 0.1's almost all the time with occasional 0.2's just like the first set of calibrated strips that I had bought with the meter originally. I'm an engineer and don't know exactly how they do it, but nanoscale manufacturing these days is doing amazing things so maybe the calibration sample is on the strip sub-microscopically and we simply can't see it. Just follow the instructions and be happy.
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The placement of LP gas detector should be low close to the floor. It does not matter the location of the CO detector see the following abstract from the National Institute of Health http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21536403
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It shows 1543.2grains + or-0.1 ! Iwould like to say that I recieved mine with no instruction and lyman was great to work with on any question,once calirated,right on!
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I would not order from this company. It is listed as Violet light, which would indicate it is Argon Gas. I ordered it. The device I received was yellow/orange indicating Neon Gas. When I contacted the seller, they are in China and it was not possible to effectively communicate with them. They would only do a return if I paid to ship the wrong device they sent back to China, which was very expensive. Amazon, of course refunded my money, but it was still a pain.
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Hey there. I had bought this for a friend. From what I can remember it's 3.5 h ope this helps.
994827
Specifically for the Kidde p12040 the sensitivity is 2.28+/-1.08%/ft.If you are asking what the numbers mean, the detector measures smoke by detecting how obscure the air has become. Perfectly clear air is 0% a wall is 100%. For this detector, you should expect that if a light is 22' away from you when it goes off, you'll see only half (50%) of it's normal light output. This detector is photoelectric type, ionization type detectors are more sensitive (0.8 - 1.35%/ft). However, this ' better' sensitivity does not always translate into faster detection of all fires. A good choice would be to pick a combined unit that uses both ionization and photoelectric technologies, especially in kids bedrooms. Specifically for the Kidde p12040 the sensitivity is 2.28+/-1.08%/ft.If you are asking what the numbers mean, the detector measures smoke by detecting how obscure the air has become. Perfectly clear air is 0% a wall is 100%. For this detector, you should expect that if a light is 22' away from you when it goes off, you'll see only half (50%) of it's normal light output. This detector is photoelectric type, ionization type detectors are more sensitive (0.8 - 1.35%/ft). However, this ' better' sensitivity does not always translate into faster detection of all fires. A good choice would... » Read More Specifically for the Kidde p12040 the sensitivity is 2.28+/-1.08%/ft.If you are asking what the numbers mean, the detector measures smoke by detecting how obscure the air has become. Perfectly clear air is 0% a wall is 100%. For this detector, you should expect that if a light is 22' away from you when it goes off, you'll see only half (50%) of it's normal light output. This detector is photoelectric type, ionization type detectors are more sensitive (0.8 - 1.35%/ft). However, this ' better' sensitivity does not always translate into faster detection of all fires. A good choice would be to pick a combined unit that uses both ionization and photoelectric technologies, especially in kids bedrooms. « Show Less
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I used a short term test like the one from First Alert to validate the readings in my basement and it came out accurate. Make sure that you carefully place the unit because placement can effect the readings. 25 is pretty high but certainly in the range of possible - don't ignore it !
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"Approved" is a tricky term here. UL does have a special category for RVs, but there is no code that I am aware of that stipulates what kind of detectors may or may not be used, especially in the aftermarket.
709199
Manual says '.1' without specifying units. The detector responds well to an Am-241 smoke detector source held next to the detector; gammas emitted from the source are 26.3, 59.5, and 13.9 kev.