When planting these in the ground, do you need to slice open the sides? Or will the roots somehow be able to penetrate this fiber material? Thanks.
8802
This material disintegrates naturally. You just plant the fiber cup as is;) It does not impede the roots...
8803
The roots do find their way through. But I myself like to rip the bottom off. I like to help.I do bury the fibre into the soil. Compost! ;)
8804
Personally do not understand how anyone thinks these are too thick and do not break down. Mine were falling apart after a few times watering. Would rather they stayed together better myself. The bottoms were coming out before I could even get them a decent size.
8805
I would slightly break the fiber, Mother nature sometimes needs a little help,- gently of course.
8806
As a couple reviews mention, they are fairly thick. They will eventually compost, but for the health of your plants I'd suggest you cut the bottom off when you transplant to let the roots expand.
2220481
dip root into bag and then plant. Also spread some around on top of soil.. GREAT STUFF !!!
1657486
The tines are only about four inches long, but if you move the the already-tilled soil and then till again, you can get a lot deeper than that. It doesn't cut the roots but that's something you can do yourself as you come upon them.
401567
Do you have a warm very sunny place to put them if you plant them if so I would go ahead and plant them if not I would wait and place the cuttings in a cool place until spring. I am certainty not an expert on these but, this is what I would do if I had just received them. Hope this helps!
814798
Hello. I planted them in potting soil from the home depot, About a half inch deep. But It should be noted that i didn't receive the correct seeds from the seller, and I have no idea what the plant i have is.
533371
I would. We have sand and foam padding under ours and still have problems with roots, rocks, and clay. Does not prevent anything from growing thru it.
1513180
I have planted these in VA. I started them indoors and then moved them out after acclimatizing them. All of the seeds I planted have sprouted. I have them where they receive full morning and early afternoon sun. They get a little wilted by mid afternoon if it is very hot but recover by evening. They seem to be pretty hardy--my dog trampled two of them but they recovered quickly. They have been in the ground for about 2 weeks now and they all are really beginning to take off. I show multiple small fruit on all but they are very small yet. I am thinking they will do well.
2130467
Caroline, I am sure you can bury the cables as long as both ends are isolated from moisture, ie; J-box, weather proof (type 3M), or ran back indoors. There is not really any regulations regarding depth, however I would put the cable deep enough (about 6 in.) so that it will not be damaged by roots or lawn equipment. FYI, sunlight might cause cable to become brittle. Whenever you are coming out of the ground, protect it with conduit or some sort of guard.
252640
Have you considered putting a thick layer of wood chips under your fruit trees on top the ground (this is chipped branches & leaves that you can often get for free if you offer to let your local tree trimmer dump their waste wood chips at your place)? They are shock-absorbing (if the trees are dwarf size - not too tall), hold water for hungry roots so don't need to water as much, soften the ground below them => promoting more rapid tree root growth if extended out far enough, keep weeds away if deep enough, have an insulating factor in cold weather & overtime provide additional nutrients to the soil as they break down. Checkout it out in a documentary on a simpler way to garden => "BackToEdenFilm.com". Have you considered putting a thick layer of wood chips under your fruit trees on top the ground (this is chipped branches & leaves that you can often get for free if you offer to let your local tree trimmer dump their waste wood chips at your place)? They are shock-absorbing (if the trees are dwarf size - not too tall), hold water for hungry roots so don't need to water as much, soften the ground below them => promoting more rapid tree root growth if extended out far enough, keep weeds away if deep enough, have an insulating factor in cold weather & overtime provide additional nutrients... » Read More Have you considered putting a thick layer of wood chips under your fruit trees on top the ground (this is chipped branches & leaves that you can often get for free if you offer to let your local tree trimmer dump their waste wood chips at your place)? They are shock-absorbing (if the trees are dwarf size - not too tall), hold water for hungry roots so don't need to water as much, soften the ground below them => promoting more rapid tree root growth if extended out far enough, keep weeds away if deep enough, have an insulating factor in cold weather & overtime provide additional nutrients to the soil as they break down. Checkout it out in a documentary on a simpler way to garden => "BackToEdenFilm.com". « Show Less
214823
The base of each side has a crossbar to stabilize the width. Below that are "rods" about 4 inches in length that penetrate the soil, if you call that an anchor. Here in Arizona our ground is very hard and once we dug the holes, refilled the dirt around the rods and watered the ground to compact it, it was very stable. Then the plant we draped over the arbor was mature and we secured it to the top of the arbor. If you are in an area where your soil is soft then I would probably cement the rods below ground level as an anchor.
1810117
Just like if you were planting in the ground plant pieces approximately 8 inches from top of soil once they start sprouting you can mound if u want to. All I did was putting potting soil in then plant 10 potato pieces in each bag and then covered with 8 inches more of soil .
766151
mine's still going strong- I just put some stones in there and put enough water to cover the roots. It's in a non sunny spot so I occasionally put it in a sunny spot - so far so good. I've never done anything to the roots. I might actually check them at some point in case they're getting too long. Enjoy !
2145344
You should dig up any weeds that grow wide leaves and that a weed-kill spray won't kill. The wide leaf weeds tunnel under the earth down to 8" under and then these roots grow sideways, making a virtual elaborate web type understructure. But, if you don't care if they are there, that is your choice. However, they will certainly kill anything around them as they suck up all the nutrients and moisture from the ground and from the plants/grass around them and the roots can grow at least the size of the width of young carrots and are a beast that will quickly take over your underground (this is very bad for trees and plants and pipes). You certainly can spread them over top your grass, where ever you want them to grow - such as the bald spots. I use a fork shape spade (don't know the term) and scrape the area where I want to put the seeds, so they drop into the indentated soil, then I put a 1/8 - 1/4" soil on top. (If the ground is hard, pre-water it the day before and you will have no problem putting the forked rows into the ground.) Then I just toss the seeds from within my hand, in a 45 degree horizontal waving motion from in between the thumb and closed index finger [to make a small, but wide, opening between the two]. I don't put top soil wherever there is establish grass. You want to MIST water daily until they germinate and start to root into the ground, otherwise you will wash the seeds away into puddles in the yard and they will be left exposed and won't produce well. These directions work very well for me.
77898
You can plant them right through the fall, as long as you can work the ground. The biggest issue is that you want the roots to be well established, so that when the ground freezes, it does not heave the plants up out of the ground. You can prevent this by hilling your plants and then covering them with plastic or a good, heavy mulch. I've planted during every season (except winter, of course) and as long as I understood the dangers and prepared for them, I have had no problems. Hope this helps.
2182441
Absolutely however, if you live in a windy area or you try to do it on a windy day you will need two people OR something to hold down the side you are not cutting. Best to open completely & lay across the "bed " or wherever you want it just to make certainthat you are leaving enough to "pn" to the ground (bed). Hope this helps. Have used these for appox. 3 years. Fold & save for next season if you want to. Eventually they will need to be replaced if you are careful they will last a long time.
1719891
I wish I could tell you exactly. I haven't even made a dent in my bag & I've sprouted several batches. I imagine it will depend on how thick you sow them in that size container you mentioned. Maybe a nursery could better tell you for the size planters you want to use.
1686480
these grow slow....start in pots with peat and let the seed sit barely covered (yeah seeds are small)...leave in pots for a while, at least 9-10 inches tall, and transplant. the longer they get in the ground the better roots establish so start seeds as early as possible. i got a 20 seed packet and only 5 germ. and got established (that is a good result)...as long as the root bed gets established, they have a better chance of winter survival. i lost 2 because of a really bad ice storm that ruined the root bed because they werent established enough....still, better have a green thumb for Eucalyptus...not for beginners