When using the stop for multiples, I get a lot of variation. The stop has a lot of play. Good to +- 1/16". How do I stop the slop?
42274
Tighten up the knobs. Mine work fine. I recall having a little hassle positioning the to exactly where I wanted them to be, but I haven't used the saw stops for about a year, so my recall is fuzzy. All multiples are identical. If you get looseness after tightening, then return the product for one that works.
42275
The saw works beautifully in the two situations I have: construction and furniture making. On construction projects, I use the Dewalt stops on the stand. I can live with +- 1/16". For furniture work, I'm back at the shop, using a custom made extension table with with stops that don't move. For furniture, I can not have any deviation. That's my solution. In a previous comment, the writer suggested you snug up the stops, and be careful about how much pressure you put on them with your workpiece. I do this out of habit, and it usually produces pretty good results.
42276
Make sure all bolts are snug. And try not to push the piece into the stop too hard. It may be flexing some.
42277
As nailbender suggested a 1/16" tolerance is probably as good as its going to get without a dedicated table that's better locked into place. I too resigned myself to just bringing a custom table into the field if I was cutting stacks and needed it tighter than that tolerance. This stand is hard to beat for convenience but you usually always give up something for convenience. The nylon washer idea may be worth a try. The other problem is that as these stands wear out, the problem will get worse. Mine slopped quite a bit before I bought a new set but to be fair I had field repaired them many times before replacing. Not quite bubble gum and duct tape mind you, but they definately looked pretty Frankensteined at the end of their life
42278
Good Luck! I have used these for years, and the best suggestion I have is to be very gentle when putting your material up to the stop. If I tighten all the bolts extremely tight and VERY GENTLY slide my material on the stand up to the stop, I have more consistent pieces. But if I work at a normal speed, +- 1/16" is good. I have never looked at this set up as extremely accurate, there are to many areas for movement, if you need less then 1/16" tolerance, you need something else in my opinion.
42279
I went to the local big store and bought nylon washers. I added 1 to each side and that took care of the problem. Total of 4 washers, 1 on each end and each nut bolt combination. Good Luck
1235163
mine came to me with six different colets if i want to use a larger diameter bit i just switch to a different collet. go to lowe's and buy some more collets. the cat man
442194
The 2 units that I bought and use both had hard stops. That said, the quick release plates were different on the 2 units and are not interchangeable, so there are variations in the production. Those variations may include the hard stops. I have used both very heavily and have no complaints, but proceed with caution.
1954642
The end pieces move up and they can be used as stops, but I find they are a bit "wiggly" and seem cheaply constructed. I do not rely totally on them for stops; I clamp a piece of wood to the arm and make it as firm as possible. Maybe the one I got is not as well built as the ones used by the authors of the other two answers.
717415
There is an adjustable stop for the wire length. You are able to easily adjust the stop to your 1/8" length.
496501
It's likely that Your upper track is not level to the bottom track. I would re-hang the upper track leaving enough room so that there's a bit of play - you have to be careful though - if it's too spread it'll bind as well.
396368
I had real problems with this tool because the oval piece (like a washer) the the slot rides on was too narrow to be a tight fit - therefore, there was 'slop' in the tool - 2.5 degrees of slop.I think the actual _sensor_ was _very_ accurate - a fraction of a degree.I _almost_ tried to fix it by hammering or otherwise widening the "washer" - just a small metal piece that connects the sensor to the actual steel - but, in the end, I returned this item, and got a competitors product, which did not have this issue.Now, if you're always turning it against the washer in the same direction, it would work repeatably - but - this was a deal breaker for me. I had real problems with this tool because the oval piece (like a washer) the the slot rides on was too narrow to be a tight fit - therefore, there was 'slop' in the tool - 2.5 degrees of slop.I think the actual _sensor_ was _very_ accurate - a fraction of a degree.I _almost_ tried to fix it by hammering or otherwise widening the "washer" - just a small metal piece that connects the sensor to the actual steel - but, in the end, I returned this item, and got a competitors product, which did not have this issue.Now, if you're always turning it... » Read More I had real problems with this tool because the oval piece (like a washer) the the slot rides on was too narrow to be a tight fit - therefore, there was 'slop' in the tool - 2.5 degrees of slop.I think the actual _sensor_ was _very_ accurate - a fraction of a degree.I _almost_ tried to fix it by hammering or otherwise widening the "washer" - just a small metal piece that connects the sensor to the actual steel - but, in the end, I returned this item, and got a competitors product, which did not have this issue.Now, if you're always turning it against the washer in the same direction, it would work repeatably - but - this was a deal breaker for me. « Show Less
415854
Hi Brett: I'm sorry Brett, but I have been using this tool with the single padded curve that works just fine, and I'm a little unclear how "S" hooks enter into this tool. Rossi
960178
I'm having difficulty recalling as I use mine only at 0 deg. --- but it seems as if the choices were indeed only 0 and 90. EDIT: based upon consensus, I'm guessing that my previous comment is not correct!
1347364
add two then skip one then repeat......by adding them all it becomes too tight.
1117155
Did you have any of the mylar shims with it? Like thin sheets of plastic? If so, start adding those to the sandwich and see if it improves. If you don't have them, try copy paper- adding a sheet at a time until it cuts all the way through. Thats all the problem is, the sandwich isn't quite thick enough. remember to add shims one at a time until you get a good cut- you don't want to force something too thick through your machine.When you have the cut right, you can see if you could swap plates- taking out a thinner one and replacing it with a thicker one. Its really trial & error- no two machines will use exactly the same pressure, so what works for one person may not work for someone else. Sometimes, placing the die and chipboard on a different area of the platform, or facing a different way can help too. Hope this helps.
1370299
If you have a model with the + and - on the top, just push the - several times to reduce the amount dispensed. You can adjust up or down to suit your usage needs.
59289
Well, I know I have done more than one word at a time, but for the life of me I can't remember where I found out how to do it. I don't remember completely, but I think maybe I used a "comma" in place of the space. Then, before I began stitching, I think I hit "Multicolor". This way the machine stops after each letter, I think. Then when the comma comes up, you can hit the "Forward One Color" button, and it will skip the comma and leave the space. Now, it has been a year since I tried this, and my memory isn't like it used to be (ha), so make sure to try this on a scrap piece of fabric and see if it works. I could be completely wrong, but this would be worth a try. I know it's a hastle for it to stop after each letter, but that actually worked better for me, as it seemed to bunch up my fabric when I didn't stop after each letter. I cut the thread after each letter too, if I remember correctly. Anyway, I do know you can do it somehow, and you don't have to purchase additional software to do it.
1466373
Exactly. You can only use one at a time. If you want to use more than one effect, you can buy the Line6 M9 or M13 - these can stack effects (e.g., a delay + chorus + eq). More info at Line6 website
749598
An old trick I learned when I was a kid was to put a penny on top of the head of the tone arm, the little bit of extra weight keeps the needle in the groove. If it happens with every record that might fix it, if one penny helps but doesn't stop the skipping add another. I wouldn't put more than 3 pennies on it though.I hope that works.
129509
I had the problem at first too. I discovered when you fill it to the line, it doesn't work. So, I go a little below the line and it works fine. Try that!
923149
OK a couple of things, Is your SPL meter set at C weighting and slow for the slew rate withe range set at 70 or 80db? Also to accuratly calibrate your speakers you would use speaker test tone generator in the setup menu. To do this go to said speaker test tone section, SLOWLY turn the volume up to 0 will running your test tone. Once your volume is at 0 use the SPL meter to adjust the gain on each speaker till it is stable between 75-80. The max I run my system is -28 and to me that is loud so be ready it will be a very loud test tone at 80DB.