Easy Touch shows 0 PPM for salt &amp; red light lite on unit but flow light is green. Will new flow which fix this?
217549
You're probably right, remove the salt cell and do a visual inspection of the flow switch in my case the silver metal strip was completely gone
1654173
I would send it back. I have had mine for some time and have had no issues with mine. Sounds like a bad light sensor. Good luck.
1636076
Actually a better way to check. Strip back the grey insulation from the flow switch. (somewhere in the middle). Cut the red and the black wire, then short the them together (going back to the cell, not the flow switch) This will simulate the flow switch is closed. If your flow light turns green, its the flow switch, if it stays red, its something else.
336495
I have taken the flow switch apart to see how it operates. I believe it is just a proximity switch that indicates that there is water flowing. My new flow switch stopped working after a few weeks. After verifying that there was water flowing I removed the RJ-11 connector from the control panel and replace it with a short circuited wire in an old RJ-11 connector. Once the control panel sees that there is water flowing it will provide power to the salt cell. I hope this helps. It was very difficult shorting out the RJ-11 connector.
680829
I dont know! I had mine with the same problem. It seems like the switch got broken because it feels kind of loose compared on How it was before. Mine It also got water inside. Did your flashkight got water inside too? I have not tried to fix it yet.
711416
On the base of the pump there is a sliding button that I believe adjusts the flow. You can also slide the light to normal on, to a dim one with a blue hue or off.
964430
I think this happens to a lot of people while troubleshooting a bad cell. Unfortunately, dilution is the only way ... I know of no chemical method to decrease the salt ppm. You don't have to drain the entire pool though, just enough to dilute the water down to the target level. You probably could crunch some numbers for percentage of gallons/ppm or something to get an idea, but I would suggest just draining a good bit, say 10%, re-filling, and then circulate for 12 to 24 hrs before taking another reading. The joys of owning your own pool ... good luck.
1376724
Ryan...I do not know what your specific problem is, but, I would suggest you contact you contact Intellichlor technical staff for guidance. They diagnosed my flow problem over the phone...Don
1749794
We haven't had the red issue but we have had the screen turn colors and the black vertical lines happen. The unit has cheap capacitors in them. If you can solder it is a $5 fix. If you canT and you buy the new board about $120 fix. Very easy fix though. Look it up on Youtube and you can see what I am talking about. Youtube instructions stepped me through it....super easy
1856009
Sounds like power supply. Had it happen on mine. Check how many times the red lite turns on and off and then check unternet
336498
The flow switch has nothing to do with the salt sensor per se. It is a transducer that sends an electric pulse to the system when water moves through the lines. It is very important that the flow switch be positioned correctly to allow the switch to move and send a signal to the system. There is a very small arrow to indicate the correct position. It will not send a pulse to the system if it is even off position just slightly. There must be something really wrong with you system if you have to replace the salt sensor annually. Most likely your sensor is getting calcium deposits and just needs to be cleaned with muriatic acid solution. Be extremely careful mixing muriatic acid with water as it is very volatile. You should have directions for doing this in you salt generator manual or find it online. The Hayward system has a "timer" to flag you to check the salt sensor every so many hours of operation. You may be getting this indication and thinking you need to replace the salt sensor. If you think there is nothing wrong, you can push the diagnostic button for several seconds and it will reset the check indication. Your pool supplier should be able to check the sensor if you suspicion that it is faulty.
1226511
Led not turning on response to your question I recently purchased the same faucet and it's pretty simple you just have to make sure that you connect the gold connectors and put batteries in if not working it's probably a defect
257684
i had the same problem, the red light stayed on & couldn't get the green light to show until i adjusted the float knob (the white knob)...then it worked perfect!
1636075
no my flow switch stopped working which in turn shuts the cell off so you do not produce clorine. i called pentair and they told me i had to buy a new chlorinator $$$wrong, bought a flow switch cut the old one off, installed the new one, everything functions just fine now and it was only $25.00
1140985
Mine doesn't do that. It gradually rises or falls according to what the ppm is. Sounds like you have a defective unit.
2283541
The label must have changed. Mine had +/- Load. I hooked up the +from the P/S to the +, the - from P/S and LED light (load) both connect to the - on the switch. The + from the LED to the Load. My assumption would be Line/Negative/Load. You should contact the seller to be sure. Good luck!
1404604
I kept adding salt to the pool and the PPM wasn't going up. It was staying around 1700 or so. I talked to my pool guy and he suggested I replace the cell. He said they generally only last about 5-6 years. I got 7. When I installed the new cell, my salt PPM was up around 6,000...not a happy level for the equipment.