What preparation is needed when applying to a long, wooden fire escape stairway? The top is dry and weathered; the bottom has some green mold on it.
210320
It will only penetrate if there is nothing to impede its ability to do so. You want it to penetrate as much as possible since it seals from the inside out without forming a skin on the surface. Anything on top of what your sealing will catch the material and prevent it from reaching the target. Get a stiff brush and remove the moss. The surface should be clean and dry with no dust etc. Good luck
210321
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/bleach-fences-34862.html same for stairs good luck - see web site as an example
210322
Preparation is very important to the success of any coating or waterproofer project! You need to remove all dirt, grime and mold from the surface where product will be applied. Mold should be not just rinsed off, but killed chemically for best results. There are many products on the market that will do this. Follow this up with a thorough rinsing and then let it dry at least overnight before applying the Rainguard Waterproofer.
2067221
I just use plain old wood, the type has not seemed to matter. We did, however, drilled a couple small holes in the bottom for drainage from the rain.
1751704
It's a weathered looking wood, but I don't think it's weather treated. For me that's OK due to living in Arizona. I don't know how it would be in climates that get a lot of rain and snow.
135165
You'll still want to apply a standard finish. This just colors the wood, it doesn't protect it in any way
1252594
Shake the product up well and apply it with a soft cloth. You don't have to do anything else. It should be absorbed by the wood.
852810
wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally... » Read More wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. « Show Less
925952
I would start with a small, lower heat fire after 24-48 hours, and gradually work up from there. My experience has been that even after it has dried enough to handle, there will still be some moisture that needs to escape. A gradual build fire can help you prevent extra cracking from this moisture.
1682405
The treated wood is harder than real wood because the product binds the particles together and stops the rot. This product is a great restoration tool!
184838
I would make a fure,if that is still possible, get the wood hot, then pour a couple scoops of Rutland,over the hot coals. The heat activates the chemical. You may have to build a couple of fires, until that creosote turns brown, then it is dried out
1935612
I am not an expert, but in order for the product to saturate the wood, it would be good to be as dry as possible. Gary
528002
I was covering a medium green adirondack bench. I didn't sand or prime. After 2 coats the green is slightly visible. I think one more will do it. I used the whole can on two coats.
2123461
It will cure and harden the wood that is left (you must remove complete dry rotted wood and repair) so it is solid. However, you need to solve the water issue else nothing will prevent future problems.
717783
The bottom has slats. It will definitely need an exterior varnish if it's going to be used outside. The "wood" is not very strong. If you were going to put potted plants in it, you will need to line the wagon to protect it from rotting. The stain does not appear to rub off, not sure what will happen if it gets wet.
2211803
Hi Stephen,For application to fine-wood floors, shake Mold KillerTM very well. Spray 5ft X 5ft area and wipe with cloth slightly dampened with Mold KillerTM. Continue in 5ft sections until complete desired area is treated.Thank you,Jay
105458
Not sure what you're asking here. Just follow the directions on the container. Basically, spread a generous amount of cream carefully over the entire work surface and let it stand for several hours to give it a chance to be absorbed into the wood. When the absorption is finished, wipe off the excess. Repeat whenever the wood appears to be drying out.
182017
The grain runs lengthwise along the 72inch length. The wood is unfinished so it can be stained before sealing.
1166101
It does not need to be mixed with water. Apply directly to wood. Make sure you wear gloves.