What are the best maintanance tips for this saw. to keep the tray sliding smooth? certain oils for the bearings etc
199501
The bearings are of good quality and will last a long time. When I store my saw I will spray W.D. 40 all over the bottom of the saw tray.
434768
Dennis, first you take off the two nuts on the black chain cover and remove it. Then you spread the handles out so that you have access to the chain gear and the space between the guards and the chain and chain bar. I use a flat head screwdriver to clean all the debris out of the inside of the saw. Be sure you unplug your saw before you start working on it and be sure to add oil in the tiny oil holder. I also put some oil on the chain and chain bar too. It is a great little saw. frank B.
323441
Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon for about $8 with free shipping. Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon... » Read More Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon for about $8 with free shipping. « Show Less
308160
I have noticed some leakage when the saw is stored--more than simple dripping from the chain. But other saw's I've owned have leaked more. Perhaps I'll fiddle with the reservoir screw as Z. Galvins suggests below; but I'm not greatly bothered. I store it on a piece of corrugated cardboard that absorbs the mess. Otherwise, the saw performs so well I refuse to complain.
924898
As almost everyone has experienced, the flaw with the tool is the slipping when pressure gets on the saw. Dust drill a 3/32 hole about 6 inches below the plastic collar that holds it tight. then extend to whatever length you want and use the same hole and drill thru the inner tube. just place a small bolt thru and it will work great.
865937
I would rather use saws to rough it out first. Then use rough wood files for further shaping. Then finish it in with a sander with 36 grit sand paper and continue with finer grits. The microplane is not one of my favorite tools. Also check out youtube for tips on your project.
1819989
Get an inexpensive 30 weight oil. What you are oiling is the bar so the blade slides through it without sticking. Since the oil is thrown off, you do not want to spend a lot of money on it. They actually make a chain saw oil that is probably recycled oil but I have not been able to find any.
832666
I use this saw every day, top of the line, seems to me when first started using the slide feature was a little tight when making cuts, but was not an issue for me. Its been several months and the saw slides really smooth, no play that I can tell, just took some use to break in. If you buy this get a better blade if doing any finish work 80 tooth is good, the stock blade I use for cutting framing and treated lumber.
2190888
They were saying to oil the blades, if you have a reduces blade friction optimizing shredder perforfmance then oil it. The best thing to use is a Shredder lubricant sheet, that is what I use the oil is in the sheet and all you have to do is shred the sheet
457219
The chainsaw has a gear driven oilier that lubricates the chain and the bar to prevent wear and a possible seizure. If you have bought this saw follow the user manual for your information about the saw, how to start, how to adjust the chain, the safety notes are helpful. I have been cutting wood for close to fifty years and this saw it one of the best little saws I have ever owned and operated! Cuts like a hungry piranha and is lite and well balanced. The older I get the liter I like my equipment. Again, great saw!
1797520
It's made of aluminum, so you shouldn't need it. The different sections slide within each other without any problems. Just don't be to rough with it because the sections can become bent enough that that won't completely slide back together. That's what happened with mine. I dropped it when it was extended and I think it must have bent it a little, because it won't completely slide back within itself now. My fought. I used some DW40 but it didn't help. Other than that, I haven't needed any kind of lube for the pole saw.
359840
take blade cover off and loosen blade tighting screws &or nuts, most company sites have access to instructions for doing these things
348050
Hello Valerie, used wood and planers are a touchy subject. I recommend taking a belt sander with a rough grit and expose the surface for any hidden nails...etc. Then at least you will wear out a belt instead of a costly set of planer knives...Makitas are great
1764357
Charlie - I am having the exact same problem with my brand new Makita UC3530A. Unfortunately, I found that many others were encountering similar problems with the saw not channeling the oil to the chain only after I had already purchased mine. I called Makita corporate customer service about the problem, and they suggested that I take it to a Makita service center. I am planning to take it to the Makita service center in Houston next week. The Makita rep at corporate HQ said that I evidently have a defective unit. I don't think so. I think this is a basic design defect with this saw because so many others are having a similar problem. I will see what the Makita service center folks have to say, and if I am not satisfied that this is a fixable problem I am going to return it to Amazon and buy something else. I regret that I might have to do so because the saw cut beautifully until I unknowingly dulled the chain to such an extent that it no longer cuts at all. The reason the blade dulled so quickly, of course, was that it was getting no oil to the chain, but I didn't realize that until the damage was already done. I hope this is of some help even though it certainly isn't a solution.
918298
There are constant problems with everything on this machine. Mine needs some kind of maintenance work everyday. The drive belt jumps off, blade guides get loose, upper blade guide doesn't work when sawdust gets in it., wheels are difficult to bring into alignment and works best with Timberwolf Blades. No more than 4 tpi if you can find them. Try Suffolk Tools.
1967365
What do you need? I have assembled this and the only issue is that the sliding tray can be a pain
819715
I have the same saw. Check out Home Depot. I bought what's called a Universal Edge Guide. I had to do some minor filling on the mounting slots of the shoe of the saw. Works great!