I can't get the flame regulator off of the screw top lid. I saw it on a video, because there was no instructions with the burner.
213788
Lift the flame regulator handle and rotate the regulator lid to the side, exposing the top of the lid. Using your thumb, push down on the screw top lid. It will pop right off.
213789
Hi, I purchased 2 of these, the brass being a big factor vs. stainless. Mine too were "stuck" together - and I separated the screw top from the flame regulator as follows: unscrew the cover and the "stuck" regulator as one piece. Then, by lifting the wire "handle", slide the regulator to the side (open position), place the soon-to-be 2 piece assembly on the floor, (concrete garage floor here), and tap the screw cap, which is now exposed after "opening" the flame regulator to the side, with a large round socket - i used a 15/16" spark plug socket. Voila! Once separated they work great. In my opinion this isn't a "lemon" - it's perfect machining and assembly which fit together with almost .005" precision. Hope that helped. As I mentioned, I bought 2 of these and had to separate both of them that way.
213790
It does not "lift" off.....it slides to either side by pivoting on the rivet in the lid.....very carefully lift slightly on the handle and move to either side...the first time it is very stiff but after that it is easy to use the feature.
213791
Never had that issue...just wiggled both pieces apart and my stove works beautifully! Used it on a 6 day hike along with the wood burning stove...great combo!
213792
While the lid is screwed on, the flame regulator is just clicked on top of it.With the lid screwed on (not very strongly, so the sealing ring doesn't get too compressed), pull the flame regulator up, twisting a bit, like pulling a cork. If it feels 'stubborn', also twist it clockwise. The lid can't twist with it, as it's already closed in the same direction.BTW, to put the fire off, use the flame regulator and not the lid. As the sealing ring inside the lid may be damaged by the heat, it's used only after the stove cooled down.
866065
Contact the manufacturer directly. The website is www.flameengineering.com. If anyone can help you, it'd probably be them.
2254368
m. kelly, i've had and used my grill for almost 2 years and have NEVER experienced this problem. one thing i ALWAYS do after each use is CLEAN all surface areas including the burners. i wipe them down and ignite the flame to make sure all burners are functioning properly. check the bottle gas and make sure it is tight on the threaded valve. i swear by mine, good luck. mc
1501858
Flip the fuel cut-off switch just above the red knob. Not sure how to fix the broken knob, though. May not need it I you use fuel cut-off switch for the same purpose?
1817953
What do you mean.....I had one about 3 or 4 years ago, and my husband put it on the burner....of course ruined....I am very disappointed that I did not get any instructions to use it. Evie
1897137
Remove the one in the old one in the smoke box, and replace the new one using the existing screws. Just reverse how you remove it. It was a simple process.
957516
Is your ring under the lid, clean/debris free? Is your heating element/flame under the pot hot enough? I crank the heat up as high as it can go and slightly massage the locked handle (there should be a little slop with the two handle halves upper and lower sliding past each other maybe an 1/8" and inch). If you do that you can see the little orange pin in the handle locks it from opening under pressure start shaking around until the pressure building finally causes it to pop up. If its just spitting tons of water you are not using enough heat to get it to seal. You will get enough steam to condense around the valves and rim to spurt out though. So crank up the heat, massage the handle with the handle switched to lock when the orange pin starts to jump around, AFTER the pin completely pops up and you have a true seal, THEN turn the heat down. That's all I got.
53900
There should be everything you see in the picture. What you can't see is a copper rod used to help hold up the burner. The rod slides through holes on either side of the metal part that holds the burner. You also can't see the burner or the grill grate. Anything else?
2206393
There is a certain way that the regulator goes in on the burner end you will see a dimple then line up the tube and slide it in the slot has to line up
92632
The pressure regulator knob is suppose to be loose to help release steam - just like on the ones you use on the stove - those are loose also. Hope that helps. D.Wertz
604907
Adjust the igniter metal to be right over one of the burner holes about quarter inch above had same issue that's all it is
1753305
Well Randy, I had a turkey fryer made by another company and the burner was junk. It would burn the bottom of any pot I put on it, so I cut it off and welded the King kooker burner in its place and reused the same regulator and hose that came with the fryer. Now it works better than I had planned and has a nice flame pattern with no black residue. I like it and it works well.
953806
It's the regulator. I had the same issue. The flame will get lower and lower until it goes out completely. When you install the new regulator, be sure to remove the burner and clean it. I used soap water and wire brush, then I used safety pin and poked every holes on the burner to clear the rust and grease. Now, it's like a brand new grill.
2206396
This is our experience: It doesn't snug down like the regulator threads going onto the bottle. Sits a little loose, in fact. With the grill in front of you and the burner inlet on the right, hold the bottle bottom facing you, insert the tube into the inlet and rotate away from yourself until it rests on the table. It will be "locked" in that there's a little tab holding it in. It will still jiggle but hasn't been a problem. That's our experience. Hope it helps!
235850
What I did was take off the previous ignitor and looked at the part # on it. It's pretty easy there is usually a screw that is holding it in place. After removing the screw and ignitor carefully u simply unplug from the connector. Look at part # and verify it's the one your ordering. Very easy process and saved me about 200 $
1580395
Additionally, to all of the other suggestions, try taking about 10 medium size hex nuts and put them inside the tube shaking it around the entire burner loop and back to the opening. Make sure if you put 10 in you get 10 out.
1175118
I believe the burner is, though I can't get a good look at it. I'm going to be cleaning the whole thing this weekend and can update. the drip cover is not. It is starting to rust (my bad for leaving it out all winter)