I would like to use this in the outlet a couple of feet from the kitchen sink. That outlet has the required safety shut-off with the little red reset button in the middle, between the two sockets. Can this unit be used there?
208766
I would think so. This unit just extends the existing electrical circuits, so you would still have your ground fault protection. However, if the ground fault function in the main outlet was activated, you would need to remove the surge protector to access the re-set switch.
847726
Yes to the first question. The second -- it won't take up both outlet if you put it in the upper outlet and use a regular plug on the bottom outlet. I like it a lot.
1030315
I also have 3 on the same circuit - first in the garage (which I was advised by the home inspector), second in bathroom # 2 (right near the sink), and third in bathroom # 1(also right near the sink) - just in case something happens in either room. I also have one in the kitchen, just past the refrigerator near the sink. I was advised by an electrician NEVER plug the refrigerator into a GFCI receptacleas it could "kill" the unit due to its constant recycling. Also advised to install a ONE plug surge protector behind the refrigerator.
119730
I would not use it in the bathroom. The bathroom requires a GFCI to protect you around wet areas. This unit does not provide protection required. I would carefully check to make sure the electrical circuits are correct in the bathroom, therefore, I would recommend you find a good local licensed electrician and seek their advice. (Note: I taught electricians for nearly 22 years however, every local area has their own rules and licensing. Please be safe here and ask your electrician)
1401912
I personally would not swap it out. That outlet is there to protect you from being electrocuted. Usually wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms have them where most accidents happen. I would look elsewhere to install it.
281359
Sorry - I don't know. I've only used it with a household electrical outlet.
392618
Yes you could. the red button will trip open the breaker. To close you would have to reset the breaker by turning the little grey lever.
22678
The unit has three prongs that plug into the wall outlet. It probably could be used with the proper three-to-two prong adapter.
1482110
I don't see why not. It simply plugs in the socket and you plug what you want into it and after the time is up it turns off the electric.
1262117
Yes, normal kitchen outlet. I do not run anything else on that circuit while the pot is plugged, however, just to be on the safe side. Would not want to trip any circuit.
781408
I would not recommend doing that because of the current load. The switch has a 10 amp (PEAK) rating. I would not recommend using it for more than 5 amperes of continuous current, more than that for any lengthy duration would likely increase risk for breakdown and potential fire. If you are using it for very low power devices, you could do that, but I would check the current rating of everything you daisy-chain from it very carefully before doing that.
1319277
sure.as long as the female end doesn't get wet and trip the circuit breaker or ground fault or worse yet a slight tear in the hot wire waiting for you to become the ground then ZAPPO.It's safer to roll up the cord and unplug from the receptacle after each use.
2055502
Yes, technically. However, there are a couple other, and better, options. The best option is to put the surge protection device at the breaker panel. This requires a hard wire connection to a double pole breaker, which would also require the availability of two free breaker slots, thus protecting both legs of the 240V service. The second option would be to use a smaller Tripp lite outlet strip that only has one or two receptacles, since code states that large appliance loads should be on individual circuits. This would keep honest people honest by not allowing multiple loads to be connected to the large appliance circuit. Yes, technically. However, there are a couple other, and better, options. The best option is to put the surge protection device at the breaker panel. This requires a hard wire connection to a double pole breaker, which would also require the availability of two free breaker slots, thus protecting both legs of the 240V service. The second option would be to use a smaller Tripp lite outlet strip that only has one or two receptacles, since code states that large appliance loads should be on individual circuits. This would keep honest people honest by not allowing multiple loads to be connected... » Read More Yes, technically. However, there are a couple other, and better, options. The best option is to put the surge protection device at the breaker panel. This requires a hard wire connection to a double pole breaker, which would also require the availability of two free breaker slots, thus protecting both legs of the 240V service. The second option would be to use a smaller Tripp lite outlet strip that only has one or two receptacles, since code states that large appliance loads should be on individual circuits. This would keep honest people honest by not allowing multiple loads to be connected to the large appliance circuit. « Show Less
334916
No, it is to be used only for replacing a bath fan switch or solely as a timer switch if you want to have power run to a switched outlet and have it turn off after so many minutes.
541282
There is a standard household cord on it that plugs into a standard 110/120 household outlet... an electrician could remake the connection at the end of the cord by cutting off the plug but not be able to remake the connection inside the unit... that would surely void the warranty. Your dishwasher, stove, oven, freezer, microwave, etc. all have plug in cords... why would you want to break away from a good concept and hard wire it? If you do not want to see the units plug at the counter... I would suggest have the electrician make a new outlet that is under where the unit is going. Anytime you change the manufacture's wiring you add to the risk of problems and or fire. Be safe! There is a standard household cord on it that plugs into a standard 110/120 household outlet... an electrician could remake the connection at the end of the cord by cutting off the plug but not be able to remake the connection inside the unit... that would surely void the warranty. Your dishwasher, stove, oven, freezer, microwave, etc. all have plug in cords... why would you want to break away from a good concept and hard wire it? If you do not want to see the units plug at the counter... I would suggest have the electrician make a new outlet that is under where the unit is going. Anytime... » Read More There is a standard household cord on it that plugs into a standard 110/120 household outlet... an electrician could remake the connection at the end of the cord by cutting off the plug but not be able to remake the connection inside the unit... that would surely void the warranty. Your dishwasher, stove, oven, freezer, microwave, etc. all have plug in cords... why would you want to break away from a good concept and hard wire it? If you do not want to see the units plug at the counter... I would suggest have the electrician make a new outlet that is under where the unit is going. Anytime you change the manufacture's wiring you add to the risk of problems and or fire. Be safe! « Show Less
1995936
Dont know what rhe counter needs....the sensor just has a spdt dry contact out. If you just need a "pluse" (your counter provides the voltage, the sensor gives you a contact close (or open).. your golden. The sensor here does NOT have a solid state output, so no "sink or source" worries...
752616
Yes - but you will need to take in to account the whole environment. i.e. don't place where it may become submerged; the instructions/directions specify that it be used on a ground-fault interrupt (GFI) protected circuit.