what is the different strengths of the lenses?
313541
I use a 2.0 for computer work and 3.0 with close-up stuff like ebooks and crossword puzzles.
313542
I ordered 3.0 strength. I believe they have a few options that you can order. When you start placing the order it should let you choose the strength that you need.
2069167
Depends on what you want to use for. As the wide angle lens is an extra, you can always switch between them. For biking i would recommend the wide angle lens though.
1154642
The larger lenses are dark green and are difficult to look through in poorly lit areas. The smaller ones areclear magnifiers. You can always change the lenses with any you might find or have cut thiugh that fit welders goggles.
766794
Blue lenses are excellent for all types of light. We currently have the +2.5 in stock but not the +3. Hope that helps.
998684
There is a small lens in the bigger lens which provides spot magnification, thus the two magnification powers.
662890
They are anodized aluminum construction, its sturdy I have even used it with the heavy Pentacon 200mm Lens which is solid-and mostly all M42 Mount lens are usually heavy, I have a couple like also the Russian beautiful Jupiter-Lens 85mm-are old but all made East Germany-even the earlier Carl Zeiss used on the Exacta Camera's.
326042
18-55 and 55-250 lenses are highly recommended despite being cheap, it's good to supplement with a luminous lens, eg 50mm f/1.8. The wide-angle and telephoto are trash, the discarded
513701
It will be one heavy lens! I'd just get two 2.8 lenses to cover that distance!
719928
Not bad to me :-)I mostly use MF lenses adapter on it and the peak value is very useful!
1963741
I cannot know which set you are looking at. The lens should be designated by Pentax with the letters WR on the lens for you to know that it is weather resistant. Good luck with your shopping.
1340325
The first number is the power of the lens, that is how much it will magnify the image. The second number represents the diameter of the lens in mm. They work together to calculate a number called the "exit pupil" or "exit ratio". Take the lens size and divide it by the power to get this number. The higher the number, the brighter the image. For example, 10x50 will give an exit ratio of 5.0, 8x42 would be 5.25, 10x42 would be 4.2. In my opinion, the exit ratio is more important than the power. My favorite binoculars are 8x50 (6.25) but I also just bought 10x50 as a gift who is delighted with that configuration. Stay away from high-power binoculars. They, for me, are too hard to keep steady due to the high magnification. I hope this helps. -Norm
1413083
If you want an all-purpose lens, get the cheap 18-200mm. The 28-300mm is just not a very good lens when you consider the price and weight and image quality. For that money, you could buy two very good lenses.
1780573
The lens is clear. I've talked with Cooper customer service about the cracking lenses. I was told that some of the lenses, if not milled exactly to specs, can crack. She was very helpful and sent me a replacement light. Hopefully the problem with the lenses has been solved.
1232452
The three numbers are listed in millimeters. The first number is the width of each lens, the second is the width of the bridge (the area between each lens) and the third number is the length of each of the arms. http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/frame_size_guide.aspx
880757
Yes they have stronger lens than those you posted above. You can also get a "shorty Barlow" lens that will double your seeing power
933401
Many lenses are described as having "macro" capabilities, but this only refers to their close-focus distance and magnification. A true macro has 1:1 magnification; the 35-70 was 1:5.6, and the 24-70 is a little better at 1:3.7, but neither are true macros.
368136
You get 2 lenses. The smaller one 10-30 and the larger one 30-110. With the larger one I can go pretty close up on an item from far. And the quality of the picture is still good. Hope this helps