How does it attach to the housing? I'm looking to replace my old one that had a spring loaded wire on 2 sides and were attached to the trim.
329522
It attaches like this (rather than a coul spring):http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f18/45185d1328279799-help-recessed-light-shower-light-trim.jpg It sticks to the cieling very tight. I slide a credit card in to pry it off a bit so i can get my fingers underneath when i need to remove to change the lightbulbs. Also I was wondering when I bought this if it was a glass or plastic lens. I was very glad it ended up being a nice glass rather than plastic which could yellow over time.
329523
It attaches the same way. Spring loaded wires on 2 sides. I ordered one a few months ago and it fit perfectly into a light that was manufactured in 1980.
1957202
Other possibility is that the two halves (indoor and outdoor) of the housing are pinching down on the mechanism when the two installation screws are tightened. Mine was like this and I added a thin washer to both the upper and lower screws between the two halves (installation is a little tricky...extra hands help). You can check for this condition by simply loosening the two installation screws to see if the key cylinder frees up.
2131295
You pull the wire through. Used a "makeshift" cradle to hold a reel of wire which allowed the wire to pull thru. It cut and removed the sheathing in one pull. May have to work on getting the setup right but once it is...... happy stripping!
1428027
The entire housing slips on and is held together with the metal band that holds the two housings together. Hope that helps.
262683
Two welded on tabs that are predrilled along with a grommet to remove to feed wires. Unfortunately I cannot tell if the ends of the bar meeting on the bumper are drilled and rubber grommet for wire exit since it is already mounted to my LJ
542745
It ONLY installs on the bottom, not the side. There is a wood version that installs on the side but the wire is bottom base installation only.
1871333
I'm sure you figured it out by now but the housing, at least for me, was tough to get off. Someone suggested a gear puller which would seem like a great way (maybe the proper way) to do it. Not having a gear puller, I wound up using a couple small wrenches as levers on either side of the housing and popped it off that way.
1309470
I ran the wire through 2 metal cable clamps coated with rubber. Then I removed 2 oil pan bolts and put the cable clamps on the bolts then reinstalled the bolts being careful not to over tighten them. Then I ran the remaining portion of the heater wire over to the frame of the truck and zip tied up so it wouldn't hang down and get caught on something.
1257204
Do you mean the clip? It goes around the cord and hold the float the correct length you need. It goes back to the same place the old float was attached. If you put the old and NEW float side by side put the new clip at same spot on the NEW float as the old. If you can't find where it was bolted to you can take the bolt out that is holding the other cord and bolt both together.
1871334
I did it a couple years ago so my memory is foggy, but do recall being stumped for a while and then suddenly discovering the solution. I think you have to take off the guard first. Here's a diagram that will help you see how it comes apart: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-and-decker-gh1000-type-string-trimmer-parts-c-4167_9518_183331.html
311314
The mounting plate has a flat on one portion of the round plate which allows proper fit to the main housing. I found that if I mounted it properly the wire with the plug was NOT long enough to reach the outlet. I concluded that the motor was mounted to the mounting plate turned around 180º. I left it that way but had to extend the wire by splicing a short (appx 6") extension on to the wire from the motor. Other than that all works OK and it sure beats replacing the whole thing.
1524350
Not sure that I can add anything to this. The only thing I can say is to look at the way the wire was attached that you are replacing very carefully, and replace with new wire the same way. Look at other answers for details if you can not figure it out.
879143
Spring-loaded insertion holes (except for the woofer). Wire is included but the holes will accept larger diameter if you want to use your own.
153870
It has 2 slots on the back of the body that allow it to hang on screws that you would attach to the wall. So you put 2 screws in the wall and tighten them until they are almost flush with the wall, then you can push the housing slots over the screw head and then push the housing down until the screws hit bottom.
705205
Mine was exactly the same; wall mount broken. My old wall mount was screwed into the baseboard so it was easily unscrewed and the new one screwed into place. There is a slit near the bottom of the pulley and the cord simply slides into place. Kinda hard to explain, but very simple in operation. FYI, the one I received is slightly different than the photo on Amazon. The photo is representative of my old one, where one side of the pulley rotates to create an opening for the cord. That's not the style I received, but I like the one I received more as there are fewer moving parts to break.
1067389
Instal on the low pressure side, it is usually the smaller pipe coming off of the condenser. On mine it was the only pipe I could reach. Place it where you have room to put the charging hose and gage on. Also make sure once installed you can put the housing back on uninhibited. You cannot remove once installed because it pierces the pipe. Do not overfill.
1796235
It might work OK, if the spring clips reach the sides. Maybe you could move the holes for them? (The depth of the trim is 7/8" if that helps) I'm sorry, I don't know enough about this.