how much food should you place both inside and outside? and how much of the cage should be covered inside, outside, bottom of the cage, and outside of
331225
I put a small amount of food inside the trap just to get them inside but none on the outside. I've wasted food in the past as the animal (feral cats in my case) were frightened and didn't touch the food after the trap door slammed behind them. I cover the entire outside of the cage. Hope this info helps.
331226
I used my cage to trap feral cats in my neighborhood. Only small amount of meat is needed inside the cage to lure the cat in.
331227
I used about a palm full of food inside of the cage, opposite end of the trap door. You dont want to put the food directly on the other end otherwise they will pull the food out. You need to give them a reason to go inside to grab the food. I did not have to cover the cage and I was able to move a family of 5 from my area. Haven't had any issues since.
331228
In my experience I used I can of cat food to catch an opossum. Most of the food stayed within the cage. Literally in the cat food tin itself and just a small amount was placed outside the cage to entice the animal. There is no need to disguise or hide the cage in anyway. Just set it out in a known activity area i.e. Look for droppings, and set the trap.
331229
I have found personally that one small can of really stinky style wet food like fancy feast is the most attractive meal for this trap, and it must be placed all the way in the back of the cage past the step lever, so that the cat will go to it. The covering is best covering the sides and top of the cage, it really depends on the cat about the back being covered. Just make sure the covering doesn't interfere with the little hook that is located on the outside that holds up the step lever within. It takes a bit of practice to get it all in order but once you get the hang of it, it is quick to do. I have found personally that one small can of really stinky style wet food like fancy feast is the most attractive meal for this trap, and it must be placed all the way in the back of the cage past the step lever, so that the cat will go to it. The covering is best covering the sides and top of the cage, it really depends on the cat about the back being covered. Just make sure the covering doesn't interfere with the little hook that is located on the outside that holds up the step lever within. It takes a bit of practice to get it all in order but once you get the hang of it, it is quick to... » Read More I have found personally that one small can of really stinky style wet food like fancy feast is the most attractive meal for this trap, and it must be placed all the way in the back of the cage past the step lever, so that the cat will go to it. The covering is best covering the sides and top of the cage, it really depends on the cat about the back being covered. Just make sure the covering doesn't interfere with the little hook that is located on the outside that holds up the step lever within. It takes a bit of practice to get it all in order but once you get the hang of it, it is quick to do. « Show Less
331230
I just make a little trail of food to the cage. I put about a handful of food behind the trigger and maybe some in the cage.
331231
Depends on what you animal you are catching.You can google on line how much food.I would cover the food area in back where you put the bait.
331232
Haven't had much luck with this one. Caught one woodchuck with an open jar of peanut butter inside at the end of the cage. Didn't cover it at all. Since then, nothing. The little latch thing at the top that holds it open is finicky, hard to keep open. Still seems like a pretty good trap for animals larger than squirrels.
2284948
No, you'd need something bigger, unless it's outside of the cage most of the time. Like, if cage is only used for sleeping,etc....that sort of thing. Otherwise, you'd need a giant cage....think...bigger bars.....
779652
Outside but L and W will be almost the same inside, the high you have the burner, water pan and wood pan so the space is different.
1530250
I keep 3 with plenty of room. I think up to 6 would be comfortable. Make sure you reinforce to keep predators out.My Dad raised 5000. It's amazing how little space chickens need to be happy and keep laying.
1246063
Place it on the bottom rack and be sure to cut it down so there is an inch or so of open space one either side
1103362
"Bigger is better! A rabbit's home should be at least 4-6 times the size of your bunny when he's entirely stretched out-more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. Enclosure sizes also should be decided in conjunction with the amount of exercise time and space the rabbit has. One guideline to go by is at least 8 square feet of enclosure time combined with at least at least 24 square feet of exercise space, for 1-2 rabbits, in which the rabbit(s) can run and play at least 5 hours per day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-story "condo" with the floors connected by a ramp-they love this! For ideas on where to buy different housing options," from... http://rabbit.org/faq-housing/ I would not put a rabbit in this cage, unless he was going to be out for most of the day. This size cage is not adequate for a rabbit to get any exercise.
1524085
It would fit comfortably in the cage, but there wouldn't be lot of room leftover for anything else after it's put it. Hope this helps!
2006220
Over the metal cover. It is always a good rule of thumb to keep all heating/light devices outside the tank. You don't want the reptile to accidentally burn themselves.
2000836
The Habitats "Footprint" (The wire portion of the habitat) is 23" (Front to back) X 46" (Side to side.) Therefore, you would need AT LEAST 24" X 47" for proper support of the frame. The green (Bottom) portion of the cage NEEDS a solid support for the wire frame, as it is a soft, flexible fabric that WILL NOT support the weight of the frame. (It would push up and distort its' shape.) This is a VERY GOOD habitat. I had no table wide enough to support it, so I solved the problem by placing a piece of smooth plywood under it, and covering the wood with several layers of newspaper. The dimensions I used (For safety) are 24" X 48". The Habitats "Footprint" (The wire portion of the habitat) is 23" (Front to back) X 46" (Side to side.) Therefore, you would need AT LEAST 24" X 47" for proper support of the frame. The green (Bottom) portion of the cage NEEDS a solid support for the wire frame, as it is a soft, flexible fabric that WILL NOT support the weight of the frame. (It would push up and distort its' shape.) This is a VERY GOOD habitat. I had no table wide enough to support it, so I solved the problem by placing a piece of smooth plywood under it, and covering the wood with several... » Read More The Habitats "Footprint" (The wire portion of the habitat) is 23" (Front to back) X 46" (Side to side.) Therefore, you would need AT LEAST 24" X 47" for proper support of the frame. The green (Bottom) portion of the cage NEEDS a solid support for the wire frame, as it is a soft, flexible fabric that WILL NOT support the weight of the frame. (It would push up and distort its' shape.) This is a VERY GOOD habitat. I had no table wide enough to support it, so I solved the problem by placing a piece of smooth plywood under it, and covering the wood with several layers of newspaper. The dimensions I used (For safety) are 24" X 48". « Show Less
461191
I don't think the wires are thin; my cage was bought a year ago so don't know if there's been any changes by manufacturer. Unless you're going to have a lot of extra heavy items in the top cage, I see no reason why you can't put a second cage on top. Since the bottom of the cage is a little narrower than the top, I would put a piece of cardboard, cut exactly or even larger than the top, on the top of the first cage, then put the second cage on that. It will help distribute the weight more evenly. I've used the top of my cage as a table...it's held books, houseplants (NOT in heavy ceramic pots!), flashlight, bags of hamster food, 2 liter bottle water. I don't think the wires are thin; my cage was bought a year ago so don't know if there's been any changes by manufacturer. Unless you're going to have a lot of extra heavy items in the top cage, I see no reason why you can't put a second cage on top. Since the bottom of the cage is a little narrower than the top, I would put a piece of cardboard, cut exactly or even larger than the top, on the top of the first cage, then put the second cage on that. It will help distribute the weight more evenly. I've used the top of my cage as a table...it's held books, houseplants (NOT in heavy ceramic... » Read More I don't think the wires are thin; my cage was bought a year ago so don't know if there's been any changes by manufacturer. Unless you're going to have a lot of extra heavy items in the top cage, I see no reason why you can't put a second cage on top. Since the bottom of the cage is a little narrower than the top, I would put a piece of cardboard, cut exactly or even larger than the top, on the top of the first cage, then put the second cage on that. It will help distribute the weight more evenly. I've used the top of my cage as a table...it's held books, houseplants (NOT in heavy ceramic pots!), flashlight, bags of hamster food, 2 liter bottle water. « Show Less
563531
We have toys, ladders, and a tent hanging from the top of the cage. There's plenty of room inside. We also use those flexible rope perches inside as well as outside the cage. We have a Quaker inside ours and he enjoys every inch of it.
46294
I have two conures...a green cheek and cinnamon... Granted they spend a lot of time outside this cage, there is plenty of room for both
165877
I use ours on the inside of the cage. Our cage has a base part that sticks out so I couldn't put it on the outside. We love it.
903908
Hi, Well I put mine under a patio with only one side open.. Its a beautiful cage.. so I really dont know how it would hold up if it is out in the open.. maybe if it is under a patio it will be ok.. but I live in Cal. and the weather is alot different here then in NJ.. So I dont think I am much help..
791838
Cage construction would be fine outside - plastic and metal. The problem would be water would collect in the platforms and bottom pan. Some shelter would be necessary for protection from extreme heat and the elements (rain). Ours is used exclusively inside to separate 1 outside (not declawed) cat from our indoor (declawed) cats. We added a 5 foot extension to allow our outside cat more exercise room when he is inside. Serves our needs well!
1035506
I think it would be tight quarters. I have a single silkie chicken in ours (she was being bullied). She is okay to be in there during the day without being let out, but I'm not comfortable with it every single day. When we get her a friend, they will fit fine for sleeping and the occasional day or two that they don't get out, but they will need out most every day. There would be no room for a single bunny to really run and do happy jumps/kicks in this one, but it would be okay for night/occasional day I think. You'd definitely want to use some hardware cloth on the underside or something so they can't dig out. The bottom is not covered. I think it would be tight quarters. I have a single silkie chicken in ours (she was being bullied). She is okay to be in there during the day without being let out, but I'm not comfortable with it every single day. When we get her a friend, they will fit fine for sleeping and the occasional day or two that they don't get out, but they will need out most every day. There would be no room for a single bunny to really run and do happy jumps/kicks in this one, but it would be okay for night/occasional day I think. You'd definitely want to use some hardware cloth on the underside or something so... » Read More I think it would be tight quarters. I have a single silkie chicken in ours (she was being bullied). She is okay to be in there during the day without being let out, but I'm not comfortable with it every single day. When we get her a friend, they will fit fine for sleeping and the occasional day or two that they don't get out, but they will need out most every day. There would be no room for a single bunny to really run and do happy jumps/kicks in this one, but it would be okay for night/occasional day I think. You'd definitely want to use some hardware cloth on the underside or something so they can't dig out. The bottom is not covered. « Show Less
851403
I don't own it any more to measure it. Our dog died. Although I can tell you that it is not the bar spaces that would be a problem foe rabbits. You need a tray that is located under a wire bottom for rabbits unless you have time to clean it daily. If not you will quickly get maggots and flies. And if they sit in their own waist, the maggots will enter the rabbits back end. I tried using a litter box in a cage for a rabbit once and that happened to my rabbit.