Is this better to use on the 4 main contact points of the slide of my handgun then just standard oil? seems like this would be better???
325909
Much better Chris, much much better, I use it on all 7 points of lubrication on all of my M&P's and the bread is much better, and cleaner, and unlike traditional oil that runs off in almost no time at all, this lube stays in place even after shooting. I put well over 100 rounds through my M&P's she I take them to the range, and she I field strip them for cleaning, the grease is still there, and does not attract grit and grime from shooting, it's a purchase that I highly recommend, and I'm very selective with lubricants for my firearms, Slip 2000 is the way to go. Their synthetic oil is great for the points that you can't get the grease on. But again, go for it, you won't regret it.
325910
Much better Chris, much much better, I use it on all 7 points of lubrication on all of my M&P;'s and the bread is much better, and cleaner, and unlike traditional oil that runs off in almost no time at all, this lube stays in place even after shooting. I put well over 100 rounds through my M&P;'s she I take them to the range, and she I field strip them for cleaning, the grease is still there, and does not attract grit and grime from shooting, it's a purchase that I highly recommend, and I'm very selective with lubricants for my firearms, Slip 2000 is the way to go. Their synthetic oil is great for the points that you can't get the grease on. But again, go for it, you won't regret it. Much better Chris, much much better, I use it on all 7 points of lubrication on all of my M&P;'s and the bread is much better, and cleaner, and unlike traditional oil that runs off in almost no time at all, this lube stays in place even after shooting. I put well over 100 rounds through my M&P;'s she I take them to the range, and she I field strip them for cleaning, the grease is still there, and does not attract grit and grime from shooting, it's a purchase that I highly recommend, and I'm very selective with lubricants for my firearms, Slip 2000 is the way to go. Their synthetic oil is... » Read More Much better Chris, much much better, I use it on all 7 points of lubrication on all of my M&P;'s and the bread is much better, and cleaner, and unlike traditional oil that runs off in almost no time at all, this lube stays in place even after shooting. I put well over 100 rounds through my M&P;'s she I take them to the range, and she I field strip them for cleaning, the grease is still there, and does not attract grit and grime from shooting, it's a purchase that I highly recommend, and I'm very selective with lubricants for my firearms, Slip 2000 is the way to go. Their synthetic oil is great for the points that you can't get the grease on. But again, go for it, you won't regret it. « Show Less
325911
I use it on all of the main contact points on all of my firearms. I feel it is much better than oil. Just remember a little goes a long way.
1492526
if u want it for upper cylinder lube best to use marvel mystery oil. its compatible with diesel and gas. i have noticed a increase in my MPG by adding 6 ounces of it to my tank every time i fill up.
1520929
I don't think so, this is gear oil. Primary oil is a lot thinner than this?
1192841
Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to leave any part of your gun "oily" as that is a place for grit/grime/carbon to build up rapidly. Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to... » Read More Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to leave any part of your gun "oily" as that is a place for grit/grime/carbon to build up rapidly. « Show Less
1459891
I dont have that pistol, however i use it on all the ones i have every used putting one drop on the powerlett before screwing it tight. I would check the makers instructions if they have special instructions or want you to use a special lube. A good source of info is pyramid air where they have people to chat to online
1611133
Yes, the "laserlyte system" is much better than the "sirt trainer/pistol" primarily because, as indicated by "C Wigley" above and/or below, your're practicing with the same weapon which you are actually going to be shooting; however, I must respectfully take exception with his recommendation to NOT buy the laserlyte target ... if for no other reason than the laserlyte target provides lasting "feedback" to study/evaluate regarding the actual point of impact that you just can't get from other fixed targets which he uses; therefore, I HIGHLY recommend using BOTH the cartridge & target. Just sayin' . . . to each his own! ;&gt;) Pricing has noticeably dropped since the laserlyte products were initially introduced on the market! - Good Luck!
1499861
I use this in the receiver and on the BCG instead of the oil to keep my weapon wet. In Arizona the extreme heat together with the heat from firing the weapon requires a little thicker lube. It's not as thick as you may think of grease normally. It's a perfect viscosity to keep the weapon wet under extreme conditions. Never used it in the barrel. I usually run a pad with the slip 2000 oil one time through for storage.
1176313
I bought this with an 18 gauge nailer. The 18 gauge came with a small bnottle of oil so every once in a while I do put a drop on the sliding parts. It works great.
907083
I use Crosman's silicone chamber oil in all my piston break barrel guns. It works as advertised in all of them. I've found the oil to be as effective as any I've tried.
1333360
It is NOT the same oil. Personally, I would not "upgrade" to another ATF unless Toyota (the company, not just a dealer) confirmed compatibility. Hey, if the company could assure us that a newer, more expensive, fluid would work, they certainly would tell us, right?
794020
Hi Vernon, The product is designed to reduce friction on cold start up in order to prolong engine life. When one first starts their engine after sitting overnight most of the oil is in the sump (oil pan). It is not pressurized for a split second. This is when an estimated 60% -70% of internal engine wear takes place. The Liquid Moly clings to the upper bearing surfaces and piston cylinder walls more so than regular engine oil due to it's composition. This product is widely used by BMW Dealers in their vehicles. Most benefit in my opinion occurs on an engine at around 10000 -15000 miles on the odometer. Why? Because the engine has started developing it's internal wear patterns. Microscopic scratches are 'filled in' with the super slippery ceramic coating thus reducing heat and friction at those contact points. The product is drawn to high heat friction areas by molecular attraction. - I am an advocate of allowing new engine bearings and friction surfcaes to 'seat in' (old school). In short in my pinion, and I am sure many will disagree, I would wait until you have around 10K to 15K miles on your new vehcile. Does the product work? Yes. - Please also read my review on 'FriktionTek' which I am convinced is a better option for a higher mileage engine (70K to 100K miles). But it is very pricy at $179.00 per tube on Amazon. I have used both. On your new engine, I would wait until all the bearings, valves and pistons have seated in first.
1879449
Yes...I Used It On the Action of My .22 Auto. Personal I Think the Dry Wax is Better. I Know it makes a Better Pellet Lube. Hope I Helped Ya..
743321
I use a couple of different brands of pneumatic gun lubricant with my Hitachi. I have a great number of pneumatic guns and tools of varying brands. I have yet to use the tool manufacturers recommended brand only or specifically. I have never had a tool failure and some of mine are over 20 years old. As far as I know, no pneumatic tool manufacturer produces a proprietary lubricant. The lubricant is a light weight oil of generic production, just like chainsaw bar oil.
1948831
I would not personally use this on my CO2 pistol, but I use it on my Ruger Air hawk and it works great. I have an oil made for my CO2 pistol and I wouldn't use it on my Ruger either.
697551
If you have a torque value to be applied, it will be the same if you use this first. You actually never want to torque something, especially with a high torque value without a torque lubricant like ARP (B004BRCR5Y) or the higher the torque value, the more off your torque will be. Although this Permatex product does say lubricant on it and it does function in that way, it is specifically for Anti-Seize, most commonly used with aluminum or bolts made of other metals (steel) going into aluminum which will basically mechanically bound over time in you don't use an anti-seize product.
1661475
Dont buy this. A channellock large pliers works better and has more other uses. Also you should only hand tighten. Any more is unnecessary. If your first time read some guides online. Changing your own oil is easy if you do it right. Can be messy at times...
1492878
There are better lubes for PTO applications. A good grease would probably be better.. but.. in a pinch, if it were going to sit connected and idle for long periods.. it would probably work just fine.