I thought the 2596 was a low dropout converter. it say must be over 1.5 volts. thought the spec says .5.is it?
349829
It is a step-down switching regulator. You can find the specs in http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2596.pdf
1924241
The input caps are not the only voltage sensitive components in the converter. The voltage regulator chip, the transistors, and possibly other components will have a max voltage rating that would have to be analyzed to be safe with the changes you suggest. Thermal evaluation of some components might also be needed with the higher voltage. You would be better off starting with a converter designed for 74+ volts.
241296
I bought it for a low voltage application...using 12vdc. It does not specify on the device the rating.
1980167
I just checked mine on a Simpson 260 and a Fluke. It is about 1000 Volts open circuit
435546
i don't know about the output, i ordered 11.1v because that was the one i wanted. you might have to contact the sellers directly for that information
2129441
not sure if it will work on a 2598LMT HD , the one I have is for up to a 2595LMT so I'm going to say no it will not.
863276
I don't believe it supports that voltage. If that's what you require, you'll have to run it through a converter.
333759
Different HY1803D? Could you include links to the different types? The bottom line is, this power supply is 18 Volts 3 Ampere. Not sure what does D stand for.
404149
No, the idea for this one is a booster. The output is variable, but I don't think there's much overlap between its acceptable input voltage and its output. From my unit, it certainly couldn't go as low as a 5 v DC output.
663933
In practice these things are pretty robust. As long as you do the adjustment while there's no output load (just your meter connected) and don't exceed the maximum rated input voltage, you're unlikely to fry it.EDIT: It sounds like one blew up on you, sorry to hear that. This is surprising to me, since the LM2587 has undervoltage lockout. I bench tested this for my application (dropping the input voltage until the thing turned off) successfully several times under 10W load.
1409331
You're right, Scott, there is not a lot of information and the information that is given is wrong.(see my question about the schematic shown... be sure to read the comments to the answers.)The standard SI solenoid that this is based on is 100 amps continuous and 300 amps surge.In this form factor, that is typical.Whatever you do, DO NOT wire it per that diagram.Do yourself a favor and buy the Intellitec Battery Disconnect Relay or Parallax disconnect.
1180969
First- I'd like to note that the chip on this module I just received is a XL6009E, not a LM2577. Pin2 for the XL6009 is a standby pin (low to stdby) but if you do so, the input current goes up significantly, so think it is tied to Vin on the board.With 5Vin, 12Vout: Iin = 20mA under no load. 5Vin, 24V out: Iin=26mA. Driving a 24V solenoid with at 24V output, 5Vin, power efficiency is just 74%.
1865415
Hello, I bought this converter in combination with a 110V pyrographic tool. After two days use, the tool had a short circuit and also the converter was burned through. I dont know if it was the tool or the converter that has caused the malfunction. That was my experience; I cannot advise you. The only thing I can say is that I would not buy this converter again. Wish you luck with your purchase!!! Hans Melissant
667349
Hi, I'm a little confused by your question. Are you asking if the 6145 model can be used for 200 volt plug-ins?
1488750
I know this is an old post but it may help someone. Interesting that they'd say 9-12V. It will probably work, but this is what I know about car electronics. I'm a product design and electrical engineer and I've developed lots of products that plug into car cigarette lighter sockets. The 12V power is really "noisy" meaning there are spikes and jolts and surges all over the place. It's a nominal 13.5V on most electrical systems, though the newer cars with advanced electronics may clean that up a bit. But here's the deal: The "nominal" (average) already exceeds their 9-12V spec, and when you consider the spikes and surges, I'd think you'd be risking blowing out your DVD unit to plug it in with a direct 12V cord. The 9V cord not only transforms it down to a lower input voltage, but it has a switching regulator that adapts very quickly to quell spikes and surges. The replacement adapter from Philips is $12, but hey, that already fried! It probably didn't "fry itself", but more likely was fried by the car you used it in which may have had worse surges than the average car. I would get the $20 one from Radio Shack (m/n 273-369). Take in your player to a store and they'll fix you up with the correct tip in the right configuration. I'm not insensitive to your need for economy, but you are risking frying your whole $130 DVD player for want of $10 or $20 for a good power cord. Go without those Lattes for a week and get a quality power cord.
626443
I ran a small 400 watt inverter off of this unit to operate a laptop computer up on the dash of my motorhome while underway. Worked fine but the key of course is having it on a properly fused 12 volt circuit matched to whatever device your trying to run. This unit has a 15 amp limit. Use it improperly and I'm sure it would burn up.
299104
This converter is a 12volt input with a 5 volt output , I don't think this is what you are looking for,however they might have other step down converters to choose from,I hope this helps you out.