Would these meters be suitable for a generator reated 7500 running watts and 9000 surge watts, or would the MB125 be a better choice?
330519
Controls design philosophy dictates nominal expected deflection should be about mid-scale, not full scale. Contrary to this, I find it is easier to observe the loading of my generator ( rated about the same as yours) as the breakers are closed one at a time until I approach 100% deflection or 7,500 watts. During any surge near 100% loading the meter high may peg high, but then it will level off, back down to on scale, post-surge. My generator is also rated about 7500 continuous watts, though I would not plan of running at that level continuously anyway. Perhaps around 90 percent or around 7,000 watts continuous providing a little headroom or cushion. So, contrary to what the engineers might call for in design, I have installed the MB75 and that works just fine for me.
244271
Quite frankly, I am not really smart enough about surge watts and the like. I use my capacitor for a 230 volt 4 ton air conditioning condenser. So, I do not know if that relates what your situation is.
771440
If you don't have GFI beaker in line it should work just fine, their is another plug that has two 30 AMP plugs I run that off of shore power if I am not using my generator. It's about $45 on Amzon
1262612
This is a 25 amp generator for 48 volt Ie total about 1250 watts total if it was doing bulk charge It should preferably have generator with more wattage than that.1500 to 2000 should suffice
35589
Its 100A max input which would point toward 6gauge if you want to provide full current capacity. I however used 8guage as I'm only pulling maybe 60A max.
2281041
To measure current that high you would need a clamp ammeter or I would recommend the fluke i200 clamp that works with this meter. Remember that if it's AC then there is no polarity. I am assuming that your campground is supplying 120 or 220VAC
1844444
I'm surprised no one has pulled out a multimeter to test this, and if I purchase one of these I certainly will... From my experience with similarly-sized relays and looking at other isolators, 500 milliamps would probably be a good guess, but assume 1 amp to be on the safe side
1232078
I am planning to use this generator to keep my electronics running in case of a major emergency. Would this work well for a couple of laptops and a PC, video camera etc? Or would I need anything else? Thanks!
722463
From what I understand 14000 is rated, I don't know what the surge is on the generator I'm not 100% sure and would have to go back and look it up, however, the 14000 is continuous rated. As far as I'm concerned, most appliances that are running will have to be restarted and will not come back on their own. The only appliances that will come back on their own immediately and create a surge is central air/heat, TVs, refrigerators and coffee pots; everything else, including microwaves, ovens, electric ovens, washer/dryers, etc. will have to be restarted, which eliminates half your load on surge; then you have your own decision making power of what you want on during an emergency. The RTSD100A3 Smart Switch allows you to automatically transfer from the utility to the generator automatically and safely, and you also have the option to shed loads that you do not want on the generator; thereby routing the load and switching it over to the switch in order to isolate the load from the house load. I've been an electrician for roughly 30 years, and forewarn you that this is very intricate to set up, and I also forewarn you that I had a plummer do the hook up for the gas line. All in all, I'm very glad to have made this purchase, and have been told by friends and family that they will be crashing at my house if they ever lose power like they did during hurricane Sandy, and now they are teasing me saying that I'm turning into one of those survivalist people. I'm not, I just like to be cool in the Summer, and warm in the Winter, and I don't like it when my food spoils because there is no power. Best regards, Mike
1123421
115-230 VAC is a selection, not a range. So if you select 115 VAC then you have selected the correct output for this inverter as it is a nominal 120 VAC inverter. With a range between 7.5 amps and 15 amps being drawn by the compressor, the inverter is just a bit shy of what you require. Another big problem will be the stoutness of the battery you are using. From a static 12 VDC source (stand alone battery), converting it to 120 VAC, drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,800 watts. That is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. From an active 14.5 VDC source (a 12 Volt battery driven by a alternator), converting it to 120 VAC and drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,740 watts. Again, that is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. But here is the catch, an AC inverter is never 100% efficient, so the calculations stated above are actually worse. Could be 20% off or more 'off' due to inefficiency. Technically, you could run your compressor for a few moments without damage to the inverter, but this inverter would not be the proper selection for your work load. I would select something in the 2,400 watt range for the continuous power required that you seek. This would give you 20 amps minus 20% inefficiency giving you 16 amps of reliable current. So 2,500 watts, with the ability to surge to 5,000 watts momentarily (allowing a 100% overage of current drawn on start up for the motor of the compressor) should fit your bill. All units will be very happy with each other (provided you have a robust battery, or battery bank). An "8D" battery would serve you well (but pretty heavy at 161 lbs each). Do not forget "voltage drop" that happens, and make sure you use HEAVY cables to the battery; perhaps 2/0 pure copper (not copper clad) cables. This will keep your input high. It is worth the expense (and you only buy them once).
439408
I'd guess you would be fine. If you know the amperage of the unit you can estimate: Amp*volt=watt. In USA the current supplied is 110volts, I have a 12,000 btu window unit that draws 12amps so: 12*110=1320 watts, well within the range of the generator. This particular generator supplies 3300
39575
I'm confident that the cord will handle that momentary surge, however, I would be more concerned about your power supply/generator being able to handle that surge.
1282765
Hello Connie, For this application it is a little to small you will not be able to rev your generator well and you will find it slightley under powered. I would recommend a larger regulator. it works fine on my 6500 Watt but I normally do not use it at full capacity.
201977
This watt meter will definitely work on a 7000 watt generator. The meter is rated at 7500 watts so you even have a cushion to play with. If you install this yourself, be very careful because you are wrapping the sense wire around one of the incoming hot legs and the potential for a major shock is there if your not careful. If your not comfortable working on live circuits I would suggest you hire an electrician. It shouldn't cost very much and for peace of mind it's worth it. Good Luck!!!
201976
Yes,as long as you don't have a generator that goes over 7500 watts ,and not over 30 amps,this mb75 box will work.hope this helps,and fill free to ask questions
1552178
Sorry Calvin, I think this a great meter, however, I only use it to check the voltage on my AA and AAA batteries and rechargeable batteries from Amazon..... Works Great ! Phil Pauls Valley, Oklahoma
418840
OK. 9000 BTU is available only for 120 Volt power. 12000 BTU is available for both 120 ad 230 volts. All of these are very similar in size and structure. So the price differences between them are minimal. And they do not use plugs to receive power. They must be hard wired to your electrical panel (permanent installation). Hope now you are clear.