How does the 60 tooth do on pine? If I'm building pine furniture, am I better off with the 80 tooth? But I'd like not to change for ripping.
885209
Haven't used it specifically on pine but have both ripped and crosscut redwood and oak. Seemed to do a good job on both.
885210
it's incredibly smooth on everything i've cut. i've cut oak, pine, poplar and ash. I recently went to cabinet making shop and they use this same blade in all their saws. They're great blades!
885211
It works great on pine for me but I wish I would have opted for the 80 tooth because the 60 does tend to splinter deck lumber.
885212
I have not used the blade for ripping pine but a 40 tooth general purpose blade should work just fine and save the 60 tooth for crossing cutting or mitre work
1284578
It's good going in. The problem is when they come out the other side they do tend to "blow up" the wood. Especially when they start to get worn down. I would not recommend it for finish wood. Any other wood is great. These are still the best spade bit with the threaded center that I have used. I usually drill through one side until the threaded center comes out the other. Then I drill from the opposite side where the threaded center came out of. Works great.
533820
It comes with which ever one you choose, depending on what your cutting. The harder the wood the more teeth per inch. I highly recommend the saw, with positive stops for a multitude of angles you can't loose. Any machinist rule will work. Dennis
1553144
I like it and I use the gauge to file the teeth on my saw chain. I took a bit to get use to it but now that I have mastered it, I am happy with it. I have not used it to file the rakers mainly because it does not work well for that or I don't understand how??? In my opinion the use for the teeth is a good deal. I don't like free hand filing and I have use several other jigs and gauges. They all work fairly well but for the cost this one is a good deal in my opinion. You should know I am not a professional sawyer but I have made money running a chainsaw doing precommercial thinning, slashing and building fire line on active fires including falling snags so I do have some experience. Good luck!
1878602
I feel the 18-900L is good for non-production wood drilling but I have found the press has frame deflection and vibration issues when drilling holes in metal with greater than 3/8" diameter drills.If you obtain this drill press I suggest inspecting the column base casting. That part failed on mine. I got a busted toe but it could have been worse. Delta did repair the drill press under warranty but I was on my own waiting for my toe to heal.
1884878
I don't have any idea why the poor reviews on the HD site. I really like mine. I've used it to break down cabinet grade ply wood. I got as good an edge as I would have on my table saw. I've used it to get a true edge on some 5/4 rough heart pine. it cut beautifully. I see a number of the HD reviews are complaining about the track. It seems like several of the reviewers did not realize there are some adjustments to make sure that the saw is tight in the track. As far as shipping, mine shipped from Amazon and it was well packaged. No problem with the track. I don't have experience with other track saws, but I can't imagine them being significantly better than my Makita.
701270
The saw has relatively fine teeth and makes a nice neat cut. It should cut the wood very well. One big watch-out I would add is that the saw is very high temper hard teeth. If you hit any iron or steel in the cut it will ruin the teeth completely. I made a mistake and hit a nail with the saw and the teeth of the saw completely broke off. Some cheaper saws of another style might just get dull, but these very hard teeth broke off. This means that the saw will cut hard woods very well, but if you hit iron, it will ruin the blade and not cut at all.
85268
I use my Ryobi 18V drill. I keep it on drill mode for the initial hole and then dial it down to around 6-8 lowest settings when doing the screws. If you leave your torque too high you'll break through your board. That's more of an issue with plywood than dimensional lumber. I glue my seems though it isn't necessarily needed.
1171923
Wilton used to be the standard by which all else were judged. They seem to have dropped from that position. If you want or need to beat on your vice and its contents then go for the Rigid,, or any other vice that has its tensile strength. If you hold lighter things and want one that has more flexible holding features, then consider lesser expensive weaker models. My Rigid isn't the most adapting yet I'm totally comfortable beating hard on it (its also guaranteed not to break). I thought I might buy a cheaper second vice for holding small pipes and other round things for instance. After more than a year, I still have only the Rigid. I weld, and work on heavy trucks and machinery as well as delicate electronic soldering, so far, all with the one vice.
552835
I use my saw to build furniture . It is a fine tool , great finish , smooth , no chatter . I replaced another saw with the Makita . The old saw was a Delta , a good saw , but used it for years , building decks and misc things , it was worn out . I love the Makita .
1818944
I've had some success with pine that large that was well aged and relatively clean of knots. Generally, I had to hand split it once and then it was fine.
1416818
I would suggest you buy the "bigger brother". it is tough on the hands tobite through tool steel.
2161181
Hi. Great pinner that you have purchased. I have used several and this is my favorite. As far as PSI setting, just follow manufacturer's recommendation. The setting is a function of the hardness and density of the material you are pinning; pine requiring much less force than walnut or oak. Start at 60-70 psi. If the pin sets properly then you guessed right. Adjust psi up or down as needed. The only thing you want to make sure you don't do is to overdrive the pin. That can damage the gun if done repeatedly.
968605
Nigel, Seeing that you are cutting flooring material, I can assume that just about 100% of your cuts are (cross cutting). Typically, for cross cutting the more teeth the blade has the smoother and less edge tearing there is. That being said, blades for (ripping) length wise, with less than 40 teeth will usually rip faster than a blade with more teeth. However, There is always the personal preferences that we all have--One thing is certain, a good sharp blade and not (rushing) the cut for either cross cutting or ripping will give you the best cut you are going to get. Of course the cut can be influenced by the running (condition) of your saw's spindle--smoothness & tightness. Now, back to your question---The 50T, 60T or even an 80T for cross cutting is what the industry would probably reccommend. AND again, if you already have a 40T that is nice and sharp do a few test cuts to see if it meets your demands--it is less expensive and (for instance) an 80T typically would not be a first choice for ripping. I hope this helps
1409440
I had the hitachi. It's a good saw but festool is just so much better. I'm a professional furniture maker an it is perfect for me. If cost is a consern go with hitschi but if u can swing the extra cost go for the festool.
948967
I'm a hobbyist and have had the DW734 for about a year now. Most of my planning had been hardwoods, Maple, Cherry, Walnut and some Purple Heart. None of them have had complicated figure. The widest board I've run through the machine was about a 9" glue up. I've gotten very good results and virtually no tear out. For my purposes an extra 1/2" in width and 2 speeds wouldn't make any difference in my projects. For me, this was a great buy. Depending on your needs, your results may var :)
2088528
Dear inquirer. Most of us are using the Makita Blade with the Makita Saw. I find them to make quality products specifically for their own product line. Just be sure to get the correct # of teeth for the intended use. Happy Cutting--Bigfooot