spooling up..mid stick seems to loose almost all rotor head speed. gears are good shaft is good.dont think is mech .
867276
Sounds like your throttle input from your radio is wrong. Go through the set up again paying particular attention to how the throttle is set. At mid stick it should be at least 60%.
867277
I agree w/ another comment about Throttle Curve; make sure you have the radio's parameters dialed in with the 300X. Also sometimes after I experience radio/ electronic anomalies I re- bind my DX6i w/ the heli just to make sure that link is secure ~ you also can look on YouTube & possibly see a vid with an experience similar/ ballparky/ or even identical to yours
867278
Check your throttle curve in the radio at mid stick to make sure it has 50-60% out. Increasing the throttle curve up give more power and decreasing the throttle curve will decrease head speed at giving throttle position.
2120866
Check the alignment of the gears on the bottom side of the rotor. Sometimes the shaft slips and disengages the drive gears....otherwise it's the wiring to the motor on that side.
238799
i had the same problem ..i replaced the.....transfer motor...and that fixed it....there can be other problems....look on the net..for more info...that will help..
1084208
All current models have a plastic gear. The issue is with the poorly made white shaft. Overtime this deforms and causes the gear to not retract. You need the gear to give otherwise it would stay engaged with the throw wheel and damage the engine. To replace this, your going to have to build your won tool. Hope this makes sense to you. If you inspect your old starter you will see the warp in the shaft that keeps the gear from smoothly retracting. The shaft that I am referring to is the white plastic shaft that the gear travels on.
1434672
They are not bad at all. The Sanwas seem to return back to neutral faster even though they are a bit easier to push down. If you were going to mod I would recommend replacing the joystick before the buttons. I thought that mod was a major improvement over the stock stick. Hope this helps.
372285
Its not super fast bit fairly quick the motor it comes with is made for crawling so it has more torque I bought a 12t motor to make mine pretty quick
1269939
I think you might have to buy the motor before you do check eBay sometimes I think they may sell the gears I am not sure.
921840
Sounds like the gear to the top rotor blade is loose or is not making contact. You have to take it apart to fix.
1517520
hello i think so . 182$ from parts tree.com . new fly wheel , electric motor and 120v jack ,thats how i see it . is it really that hard to start? good luck ..i just found that one site so far. pete
1673573
To be honest no, I'm sorry to say this is of very poor quality and may make matters worse, go on ebay and there is a vendor selling new Hitachi MAF for under 50 bux, make sure you get a nissan/hitachi part or you will be trading one problem for another
512554
Denso makes good parts. The one that was installed held up well. If you have a Mazda with the 3.0L V6 you must have had to replace a few of the coils over time. I had to replace at least 4 of them over 10 years.
567724
Hi Jeff, if the motor is hesitating is't because it has more resistance at that speed setting than the motor has torque to push through. Check that the slide block assembly (the part where the rod goes through) is not loose or not misaligned, causing resistance. If the attachment you are using is large or heavy, it will pull down on the rod, causing more resistance on that block assembly and cause resistance as well, in this case the rod extension will not be usable. This is a good machine for the money, the high-end versions cost 1000 - 1500 so at $500 these are some of the caveats. We are considering working on an aftermarket part for this product to solve some of the limitations, but an upgrade package would be in the $175 range and we don't know if there would be interest, let us know.
877782
I too thought that the gearbox was broken. Turns out the gearbox speed change mechanism sometimes wouldn't engage fully whether pushing or pulling. Make the belts are aligned and the clutch knob is secure first. I found that if I spun the blade pulley slowly by hand while firmly engaging the clutch knob the internal gears would engage and viola! I now had the new speed. In time the gears should wear-in enough that speed changing will become much easier. I also make sure that power is disconnected from the saw before I grab the pulleys. Don't want to damage or lose any fingers.-Bud,
1296897
This was the fix for me. The top rotor came right off with no effort. I put it on and tightened the two phillips screws on top rotor to the shaft. It flew right away! Thanks for posting!
589296
Andrew, sorry but I don't have an answer for you. These are hard problems to troubleshoot and require expensive electronic tools to check components. I'm sure you don't want to spend a lot money trying to guess on what parts to buy on a 14 year old vehicle.My advice is to pay someone to at least diagnose for you with their test equipment.You have to find out if the grinding going into park is related to the 4wd problem. To buy an actuator motors and just guess could be a waste of time and money?
478505
only 2 in the kit when I bought it back in 2010, I did all 8 cylinders bought the other 6 at 20 a piece, however, I have put sixty thousand miles on these with no problems, so still much cheaper than new heads, and the kit is quality, you will need a 3/8ths drive air ratchet, I did this on a 99 f250 and was able to reach all plugs,, some a little tricky , but still doable.watch the video it's floating around everywhere.
1217515
Just doing some speculating here . . . but do you have a way to determine whether the problem is with the motor or with the controller? Beyond that, I wouldn't have a clue. Good luck.