What needs to be done to replace my Intermatic T8845PV with this netAQUA 9D WIFI Web-Enabled Irrigation Controller? Is it an easy swap out?
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A note from us at Roslen: It is as straight forward as described by the other users. For more info you can download the Quick Start Guide and User Manual from our website (roslen.com), and there is even a link to "test drive" a live netAQUA. Please feel free to contact us directly. We are truly committed and happy to help you in any way that we can before and after the sale.
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Hi Jason, unfortunally I do not know your system - but you should have a look on your valves. The power they need should match to that controller.regards, Torsten
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This should be an easy swap. You connect the 9D to you computer with the provided Ethernet cable to do the initial set up, identify it to your wifi, then disconnect it. Put it in the desired location, connect your circuits to it, and plug in the power. From then on you can control/adjust it from any computer. I do it from my cell phone. These guys are also available for assistance by email and phone. Awesome product.
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Yes, pretty easy. My advice: before you disconnect your existing controller, write down the wire color and zone info for each of your current circuits. Then disconnect and remove the existing controller. Mount the new controller and connect the colored wires back to the zones you wrote down earlier.
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I replaced an non-working phc01 with the mini controller. I have another phc01 with the same house code, it and the new mini controller are working fine together.
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Yes, you will need an electrical connection to plug in the unit after you have mounted it to the wall. If you are replacing n existing box, carefully notice which colored wire goes to which watering station. Write it down so that you will not make a mistake when you connect the colored wires to the new box. After you connect the wires, read the instructions to program the unit. Be patient, it's definitive and easy.Noiw if you are not replacing an existing control box to in existing lawn watering, you have a lon, long way to go before you are ready for a control box. Unless you have knowledge of installing such a system, get professional help As this part is not easy. Yes, you will need an electrical connection to plug in the unit after you have mounted it to the wall. If you are replacing n existing box, carefully notice which colored wire goes to which watering station. Write it down so that you will not make a mistake when you connect the colored wires to the new box. After you connect the wires, read the instructions to program the unit. Be patient, it's definitive and easy.Noiw if you are not replacing an existing control box to in existing lawn watering, you have a lon, long way to go before you are ready for a control box. Unless you... » Read More Yes, you will need an electrical connection to plug in the unit after you have mounted it to the wall. If you are replacing n existing box, carefully notice which colored wire goes to which watering station. Write it down so that you will not make a mistake when you connect the colored wires to the new box. After you connect the wires, read the instructions to program the unit. Be patient, it's definitive and easy.Noiw if you are not replacing an existing control box to in existing lawn watering, you have a lon, long way to go before you are ready for a control box. Unless you have knowledge of installing such a system, get professional help As this part is not easy. « Show Less
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The control unit may need a software revision. In 14 years my software has never been updated. Call Hayward for more info.
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It should be pointed out that WNDRMACV2 builds have been available since 2013 at least. It works fine. It is correct that the model is not listed in the table in the wiki, but go to the download page, ar71xx section, and you'll see it.The enhanced build from the forum is also fine:https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?id=47382
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For my installation I also ordered the Polaris Iq900-Rs Aqualink Upgrade Kit too so I could have full variable speed programming control. I replaced a 10 year old Aqualink and Jandy Stealth 2.0HP pump so I could cut my electricity bill. In my case, dropping the pump speed from the fixed 3750rpm to the variable speed 1750rpm (~one half) dropped the pump power from 2.1kW to 200W. I ended up bumping up the speed setting to get the chlorine generator to work efficiently. Changing the Aqualink controller gave me a lot of flexibility in the power vs flow programming that I wouldn't have had -- I recommend that you change out the controller too. The controller switch took about 2-3 hours. The pump swap took considerably longer because the old Jandy Stealth Pump connections were not the same as the new ones. I had to order a new valve and connectors. All that being said, a friend of mine (different controller and different pump) used some kind of relay system that gave him primitive 3-speed control. IMHO, spending the extra ~$600 to get variable speed and wifi control was worth it. In my case running the pool filter system was 1/3rd of my electricity bill -- changing to flexible variable speed programming saves a ton of money each month that offsets the cost of the controller upgrade.
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This will not replace the router, this is a switch only. Get a router e4200v2 instead
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I had the same issue and tried the same thing DukeofWagner did but with no joy. In case you have the same problem: The old driver and software has to be removed first. Then run the driver from Vizio and choose remove. Reboot, run the driver again and choose remove again (I know its stupid but these are Vizio tech's steps) Reboot. Run the driver and this time install it. If you are asked to install the software I choose no. Windows does a fine job with wifi and all it needs is the driver.
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I believe Vivint sky is another gateway/hub/controller like the Vera3. Another word, if you have Vivint sky unit, you don't need to integrate them bc they're independent systems.
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Most likely. You can send Jandy Tech Support an email to confirm. I have all Pentair equipment and this works with one note about the Pentair chlorine generator: this unit does not interface with the Pentair chlorine generator vis the RS485 interface so you won't be able to adjust that with the Jandy controller. Think hard first, because this would be the time to switch to a Pentair controller if that is something you want to do. I've found the Pentair equipment better but had a Jandy controller so upgraded to this unit. I then changed my Pentair chlorine generator to a Jandy so that it can interface to the controller. From my experience so far, Pentair equipment is much better than Jandy equipment. I've also had it with Jandy support. But if you do upgrade get the Version 2 of the Aqualink!!! It has a better WiFi radio that will save you "moments-of-angry".
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I tried the TL-WN823N and could not get it to work. Could find no information on how to set it up by Drobo and TP-Link has no idea either.
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Yes, works great. I didn't use NOOB. Rather I dd'ed the image directly to the sdcard. I've used both the vanilla raspian as well as wheezy-octopi raspian images. Both work fine on the A and B+ models. To disable the power saving feature of the device do this. If you don't the rpi will turn the wifi device off after a period of time: vi /etc/modprobe.d/8192cu.conf insert into this file: options 8192cu rtw_power_mgnt=0 For static IP addresses, edit /etc/network/interfaces, replace the contents with (adjusting IPs as required): auto lo iface lo inet loopback iface eth0 inet static address 10.100.100.100 netmask 255.255.255.0 gateway 10.100.100.1 auto wlan0 allow-hotplug wlan0 iface wlan0 inet static address 192.168.100.100 netmask 255.255.255.0 gateway 192.168.100.1 wpa-passphrase yourpassphrase wpa-ssid yourssid Then reboot. YMMV....
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kerry, i had a lot of help to get this thing going. between radiowerks and my teckie. if i understand my teckie right, once you change anything on the router, you start all over. off the top of my head i would do a total reset of everything. also move the module to the opposite side of the thermostat. i did have my module replaced. i hope this was of some help! glenn funck 602 992 6667
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This is what you need: http://www.amazon.ca/Heath-Zenith-BL-6133-WH-Solutions-Wireless/dp/B000NCV2V6/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid;=1421242637&sr;=8-23&ke;ywords=Heath+zenith You must replce the outside don't trol switch (easily done) with the one shown, and then mount the wireless control switch anywhere you want.
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It uses a proprietary voltage that won't work under the standard 802.3af or 802.3at. There's no choice but to use the included POE injector.
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I can give you a general answer since I have the Intermatic network controller with the GE remote. The remote has be copied first to the network before any specific module can be programmed and controlled by it. The remote out of the box will not control any module that has already been added to an existing network without first pairing the remote to the network controller. Go to the page in your ADT user manual about adding a secondary controller and copying. And open up the section in the users manual for the Intermatic remote. Place both the remote and primary controller next to each other. Initiate the copy command on the ADT network first, then do the same for the remote. Note: If the Intermatic remote is like my GE remote, you will as part of the setup have to punch in a 3 or 4 digit code. Once the remote is added to the network, the default control of ALL ON and ALL OFF should be functioning with no further programming. Then follow the instructions on the remote user manual to add specific modules for control corresponding to the numbers available on the remote.
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http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Idea-Windows-based-Tablets-and/Yoga-2-Pro-WiFi-Replacement-Cards/td-p/1320753/page/2