Do I need to run my load through the controller, or can it go directly to battery? What are the advantages of running through the controller?
880314
the controller "adjusts the feed from the panels to the best volt/amp production, creating a more "steady" charge
880315
the load is the battery(s) the controller is to keep the batteries from being over charged. So no you do not need to run the load through the controller
880316
The controller prevents over charging and certain models provide better charging features, it also prevents loss from the battery after the sun goes down
880317
Many years ago i was told in powering my boat, any solar panel 50 watts or less would be ok without a controller. Over that and it may fry the battteries. Yes you can godirect, but you have to moniter and be tne controller.
2131190
It has multiple options. It can turn the load on when there is no sun to the panel and run from 1 hr up to 14 hrs if the battery will last. One of the options (17 i think) powers the load at all times. Provided the battery has power. I was unable to have the controller provide power directly to the load without a battery.
942973
There are many reasons this could happen. The most likely is that either: 1) Your system is wired backward. 2) Your wires are too thin. 3) You are running too much current through the controller. The controller has a max amp rating that is 3x higher than it's continuous current rating, meaning, if you are always pulling full power from your batteries you will ruin the controller.
2146575
No. It needs to be plugged in since there is no battery pack on the controller.
232356
The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and charge controller. The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and... » Read More The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and charge controller. « Show Less
2045030
I run mine from an inverter that is hooked up to batteries that are charged by my solar array. It uses very little power.
726990
yes. that is one of the reasons you need a charge controller. also remember your open voltage on solar panel [without load] is much higher. I have digital meters checking my system and when the battery is near full I can see the meter increase. that's because the charge controller limits the input to a trickle. so the load on the panel is lower. so you start to see more of the open voltage [higher voltage]. this controller also cuts off the load when the battery gets to a very low charge. so you do not damage the battery by over discharge. hope this helps.
1957390
You can as long as the controller is rated at 45 watts. You will boil your battery dry if it isn't rated correctly. The three amp power supply is fine, it will not boil your battery dry. Battery tender has a help line and they are great to talk to.
1317252
Yes, the Inverter should hook directly to the battery, with very large cables. You can run your low wattage dc loads off the Renogy 30 amp charge controller. I run some 12 volt dc lamps off the charge controller. See the diagram on Renogy's web site for an example... Follow the hookup order for the cables to the charge controller
285872
If the panel is small enough in relation to the battery, it is actually better without a charge controller. The controller cuts down the energy flow to a level that won't overload the batteries, but a small panel is too weak to actually be a threat, and it is more likely that the energy is being wasted by cutting it down at all. With more panels, overloading the battery becomes an issue. Then, you need to shorten and fatten all the wire paths, and buy a good charge controller. On a top end charge controller, you can even manually up the voltage output to make up somewhat for what you lose through the wires.
1560202
Do you have the set up yet? When you do have, the instructions are very clear. They show the wires coming from the panel to the controller, a red and black wire. from the controller they go to the battery. This too is clearly marked. The wires that attach to your battery need a connector. If you still have trouble connect me again and I will give you my husbands email so he can walk you through it.
683246
This controller does have a "load" connection for lights or any "Load', but the controllers rating is only 7 amp. Hooking up a power inverter and expecting it to never pull 7 amps would mean the load can't be over ~60 watts which seems pretty low for an inverter, so I'd not try it. Also if the inverter is running anything that has any kind of "surge" load, the controllers rating needs to be able to handle that too, so it doesn't sound like the best idea to have an inverter running through a controller like this (I've even seen the inverter alone create a fair arc as I connect up the wires to batteries because of charging capacitors). If you're pretty sure you have a steady load that will be under 20 amps at 12V, then there are controllers rated at that, but I'd not try it with something under ~20 amp rating even for a 100-150 watt inverter (which is almost the smallest size for inverters).
112749
no controller needed, can (like mine) be plugged directly into wall for tank circulation
1831206
Sure you can wire it to between battery and load. To monitor the amp hours your using.
1293257
Nothing special. Connect the panels in series, run the wires to the controller. The controller has screw down lugs - insert stripped (tinned optional) wire , and tighten down the screws. Same kind of connections on the battery side.
1885014
I have successfully used it to keep my rv house batteries charged up during downtime. You should have no problems for your use. You will not need a controller as there will be no chance of overcharge with the small wattage.
1024384
To the best of my knowledge it is intended as a battery maintainer for 12 V. batteries either starting or deep cycle. It's low output does not require a controller.