Will I need a drain close by or is the system self sealed with no drainage needed? Also, does tank need any regular maintenance to remove sediment or change filters?? Thanks
879868
Jeff, Yes, you will need a drain. The system will send water to drain every time it regenerates. The drain water is under pressure, and it is common to run it up and across the ceiling to a convenient drain location. If possible, the drain should be no farther than 20 feet from the softener. You can purchase flexible 5/8" outside diameter (1/2" inside diameter) plastic tubing from CAI or your local hardware or building supply store. Some installers prefer to make the drain line connection using rigid PVC. The tubing can be vinyl, polyethylene, etc. If you are using flexible tubing, be sure that there are no "crimps" in the tubing after installation, that may cause a flow restriction. The drain line will be under pressure when the regeneration/backwash cycle is working, therefore make sure the drain line is well secured. The drain line will need to dump into a drain that is a minimum diameter of 1 1/2" and ideally be below the top of the head of your softener. All local building codes should be adhered to. Drain connection locations vary with each control valve. Fleck valves generally have this connection located on the top of the valve - refer to your manual for specific locations - you will see this connection point located near the "drain line flow control" or DLFC. Note: Never connect the drain line directly into a drain. Allow an air gap between the drain tubing and waste line to prevent the possibility of reverse siphoning. Often times, a washing machine drain is a conveniently located and can be used. We do not recommend use of a check valve, as a check valve can fail, and lead to reverse siphoning. CAI Technologies
879869
There is a connection on the control head for a drain line. You will need to run it to a drain in your house. You can use flexible tubing to run to a drain anywhere in your home. call us at 785-735-9769 or visit afwfilters for more information
161816
I did not drain the pool. You do have to backwash to waste after several days of circulating the Fix A Leak. The instructions will tell you that you can not let your filter media go dry as I guess the Fix A Leak will clog the media. I have a sand filter and what I did was replace about a bags full of old sand with new sand just to be sure. My situation was I had a leak at the end of the season that I couldn't find. I didn't want to let the water level drop drastically over the winter so I put an entire bottle of Fix A Leak in my pool upon winterizing. I manually circulated the water (with a brush) for about 1/2 an hour, and waited a few days to see if leak stopped. Leak did stop, and so I covered the pool as usual. Over the winter the water level never dropped. In the spring I opened the pool as usual, but, as Fix A Leak is heavier than water I removed 4 o r5 inches of bottom water with a submersible pump that I moved around the pool. I then used normal opening chemicals and filtered as usual. After about a week I replaced some of the sand in the filter. Hope this helps. Sorry for the long winded answer.
97633
No other filter is needed, you may want to get some air stones just to keep the water at the bottom of the tank moving though.
365058
No, tank has to be in unit to operate and drain plug is in top of tank so not sure how you could make it self drain. Tank fits very smug with no room to add drain tube. Hope this helps you.
1012580
I have not needed a filter and I use only 20lb tanks. Just use the provided hose and it'll be fine.
1622111
Hi, I agree with other comments. I would suggest that you would need to cover most of the base area in order to get adequate filtration circulation for the tank size.
229310
I have installed 2 in the last few months. I plan on draining the tanks every year. I will remove the tank and flush outside since the tanks have no drain. While outside I plan on replacing the anode rod which is less than a $10.00 part. This will prevent the tank from rusting out. This is a little bit of work but for immediate hot water in the bathrooms it's well worth it. I also have the relief valve attached to the drain pipe just incase the valve opens. Pls let me know if you have any other questions
1593342
The narrow slots in the filter are going to stop most anything that doesn't dissolve in the septic tank. Lint from the washer, fibers from toilet paper, etc are going to clog any filter in time. I try to clean my filter about once a year at the maximum. The difference in this filter and the original one, put in when I had the drain field replaced, is part of the filter can remain in the outflow pipe while the inter filter is being hosed clean and replaced. Otherwise any floating debris in the tank will run into the outflow line when the filter is removed for cleaning. I had to have my perforated pipe drain system replaced with a "cap" type system about 5 years ago and it is working well. The narrow slots in the filter are going to stop most anything that doesn't dissolve in the septic tank. Lint from the washer, fibers from toilet paper, etc are going to clog any filter in time. I try to clean my filter about once a year at the maximum. The difference in this filter and the original one, put in when I had the drain field replaced, is part of the filter can remain in the outflow pipe while the inter filter is being hosed clean and replaced. Otherwise any floating debris in the tank will run into the outflow line when the filter is removed for cleaning. I had to have my... » Read More The narrow slots in the filter are going to stop most anything that doesn't dissolve in the septic tank. Lint from the washer, fibers from toilet paper, etc are going to clog any filter in time. I try to clean my filter about once a year at the maximum. The difference in this filter and the original one, put in when I had the drain field replaced, is part of the filter can remain in the outflow pipe while the inter filter is being hosed clean and replaced. Otherwise any floating debris in the tank will run into the outflow line when the filter is removed for cleaning. I had to have my perforated pipe drain system replaced with a "cap" type system about 5 years ago and it is working well. « Show Less
674108
This requires a multifaceted answer. First of all, how large is the sediment your well draws in? These filters are available in several different screen or mesh filter sizes. If it is sandy, you need to compare the size of the sand to the micron size of the filter element. I'd say this is the most important research that you need to do. Next I'd ask how much sand gets drawn in say daily, then over the course of a week. Thus could be determined by how much sand is in your toilet tanks, (when you take the lid off and look inside); then how often do you clean the screens on the washer? Lastly, do you see sand in the faucet arreaters? If the answer is a great deal to any of the above questions, I would advise you to get a filter which is one pipe size larger then then waterline coming from your pressure pump/ inlet to your house. This will allow a longer time between flushing intervals of the filter. I have used them in this application in the past, with great results for our customers. If it is installed correctly, the drain on the bottom would be run to the outside,or a nearby drain. Be sure to install a union on the drain line to allow for occasional disassembly. When the filter shows signs of being clogged- sediment in the bottom, color in the screen; then you flush it out for 1-2 minutes, until clear. I hope this helps you. I am a plumber in northern Arizona, and would recommend this item.
1346675
I would make sure you have a vent on tank. I noticed on mine with a gravity feed it would drain very slow so I installed a breather. Worked great after that.
1872333
that sounds reasonable to me, but don't forget to check it every few wash loads. once the filter bag is full, the water will overflow onto the floor. Also, if you bought these because of backups in the past, you might want to spend $100 or so and get good plumber to snake your drain to get it good and clean.
1156609
Depends on whether your system is city sewer or septic. If sewer, I would think, it wouldn't require alot. We have septic. And our Doggie Doo drain is about 15 ft from our tank, and a 5 gal. bucket of water flushes it down. Or we can go in the house and flush the toilet a couple of times, and that sends it down. Of course using as much water as you can, is best. LOVE our Doggie Doo Drain!!
2262267
Be sure your water level is to top of tank. I used 2 filters in mine for extra clean tank. I also opened top strainer 1/2 open. Mine is so quiet I have to check that it is running. If noise continues I would contact the company for a replacement.
995837
No not necessary - it has an internal tank. I did not have any trouble with the item but it is small and may not work for a large area.
365060
Tank fits snug with no room for extra drain tube. Drain plug is in top of tank and yes, tank has to be in unit to operate. Hope this helps
2109830
I don't see how you could. The tank is adequate in size and dumping it is very easy. You wouldn't really need to have it drain automatically.
2107513
Our installer recommended annual flushing and maintenance as well, but our water is quite soft so are unit has not required any additional service for five years. I think it depends on the quality of your water.