Can someone explain to me how the "flange" works? Do you just drill drywall onto the cover to disguise the safe, if so will it be flush?
1520531
the flange is larger than the opening that you cut into the wall. The safe is secured from the inside side walls with lag bolts into studs. The flange is larger than the hole and basically hides the edges of the hole. Do not drill into the flange that would be ugly, besides it defeats the purpose of installing the safe. The safe is attached to the studs surrounding the inside of the safe.
1520532
You need to cut a square cutout between the wall studs and insert the back part of the safe all the way in the hole. The flange will hide the rough cut of the drywall. The safe will sit flush in the wall but only the thickness of the flange (1/8") will stick out.
1769727
It's secure. I had a stack on barometric safe that was not fire rated, and it was the same gauge steel as this. Make sure they are not running electrical horizontally through the wall where you are planning to put it.
1365277
There are metal bars that screw into the wall that the sink is then slid onto. We also put some putty on the flat metal bars to really attach the sink firmly and help level it. If the drainpipe goes straight down thru the floor it will be more secure, ours however did not.
595003
If your safe is not equipped with an inside electric outlet, you will need to drill a small hole in the back of the safe. The unit itself comes apart so you only need a very small hole. The unit comes with detailed easy to follow step by step instructions.
1292308
It comes with bolts that you put through pre-drilled holes in the safe. My husband did not like their bolts, so he used different ones than those shipped. If the holes don't line up to your wall studs, then you can use heavy duty anchors in the wall. We mounted to wall and wood floor. It was actually pretty easy to do.
765081
The safe is great. But, we decided to use four larger bolts. Two are through the back of the safe and through the wall of the house. Two are to L-brackets on the bottom and secured into wall studs.
152031
I bought an insinkerator with my new blanco sink. I did not use the flange that is included in the disposal. I chose to use Blanco 3-in 1 for aesthetic reason. This includes a cover for the basket strainer.
489283
Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you may want to consider not having the post slide all the way down to the bottom (but I would not recommend this). Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you... » Read More Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you may want to consider not having the post slide all the way down to the bottom (but I would not recommend this). « Show Less
388732
Mine is already installed so I can't measure. The panel is mounted using screws with a paddle at the end that needs to be aligned flush with the panel to go into the wall opening. Once you begin to tighten the paddle there is a catch to prevent it from getting back to the flush position. It is the same design as a remodeling electrical outlet box you would find at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I happen to have one of them on hand here at home and it would accommodate a wall thickness of 7/8". You could probably squeeze a full 1" if you backed that paddle off a bit more. Hope this helps.
516058
Yes, you can either put some 1/4" shim stock on the studs or like in my case, i just tighted the lag bolts until I felt slight resistance. don't overtighten or you could deform the safe. My gap was slightly less than 1/4" on each side (wood and houses aren't perfect) but it is plenty strong. I'm not overly concerned about would be theives from prying it out since mine safe is hidden and to be honest, if they find it and want it, they will find a way to get it out.
2284228
I purchased one of these safes in July and installed it. No issue with depth. Can't be 7" unless they measure total depth. It works like a charm and my wife loves it!
1450842
There is a flange on the frame that goes around the inside of your opening. It has holes for you to secure it with screws.
817891
I notice that they don't show the back of the door on purpose. I just got the PDS-500, and the black box that is covering the works, and takes up most of the back of the door, is about 1 3/8 ". The distance from bottom, without pad, to rail is about 3 3/8. That only leaves 2" inside for stuff. So, how deep is the works plastic thing? Must be less on this one. Are you sure of your depth inside with door closed?I might be getting this one, though it does cost 75% more. Let me know. Thanks!
2188997
I understand what you are asking. I have the same question, do you have to countersink the PULL (not the screw head) to get these flush to the cabinet/drawer face? I don't want to put huge holes in my cabinet fronts by countersinking a cup pull and the pulls we just received, require the countersinking. ugh! Some cup pulls have "feet/ screw recepticals" that protrude 1/4" so the pull is not sitting flush unless the feet get countersunk. Can someone tell us if these pulls are flush mount without countersinking the PULL cup.
385249
Mine is pretty flush, cut between the studs and screw in from the sides, not the back.
420453
Mine does not have holes in the back, only on the sides for mounting. It is very substantial and designed to be mounted to the studs. A cabinet itself is not stable enough to support the safe. That said, I suppose you could drill holes thru the back, but it would have to be screwed into wall studs. Hope this helps!
510874
The safe has predrilled holes in the back but not the sides. It could be mounted in the wall but it is not designed for it. The door would not allow it to mount flush with the wall either. I mounted mine on a wall in a closet. Vline does make another safe specifically for inside the wall mounting. The buttons are completely mechanical and have no electronics or batteries.