I am looking for a small drill to work in tight places. I need to install some Lynx roll out chrome cabinet drawers onto existing fixed shelves in my baseboard cabinets. Space will be very narrow and hard to maneuver within! Is this the drill for the job? Thanks. I am looking for a small drill to work in tight places. I need to install some Lynx roll out chrome cabinet drawers onto existing fixed shelves in my baseboard cabinets. Space will be very narrow... » Read More I am looking for a small drill to work in tight places. I need to install some Lynx roll out chrome cabinet drawers onto existing fixed shelves in my baseboard cabinets. Space will be very narrow and hard to maneuver within! Is this the drill for the job? Thanks. « Show Less
1493438
I suspect a little depends on the drilling material. I've used mine in tight places with up to #8 screws through pre-drilled shelves. I wanted a light drill for hard to get to places without the cumbersome flat type batteries. (of which I have several)
1493439
Drill is small and powerful, but handle is stationary as opposed to some portables I've seen where the handled is hinged. Probably if your hand will fit in the space where you need to work, this drill is appropriate.
1493440
Without knowing your restrictions, like, exactly how narrow, I can't say for sure, but I can say this is one of the most compact, yet powerful and well-made cordless drills I've ever purchased. I love this drill and it's great for general, around the house jobs.
417879
It may work. Home Depot and Walmart carry them. You can check one out there. I don't see them at Lowes.
1493441
Meh. For one time jobs, maybe. Otherwise spend more for a compact with a replaceable battery. Bosch is a good choice.
1651315
I believe is drill would not be the one for that small of a bit, you may need to go to a flex drive with a stationary mount motor so you don't have to hold so much I your hand to control such a fragil bit.
1096901
This drill should have adequate torque/power to install the fasteners for a piece of furniture. It has an adjustable clutch feature so that you can avoid over-tightening the fasteners; setting it at the middle value of 5 should give you enough torque before it begins to slip. If you need more torque, just twist the collar to a higher setting. The drill comes with a 2-ended screwdriver bit (stored at the base of the handle) that has #2 Philips and regular slot blade points. If your fasteners need a hex wrench, then you will need to buy the appropriate size hex driver bit.
1904390
Ive had them uninstalled for months. Depending on how much room you have to get a drill in there it shouldn't be too hard. An angled drill would be great, as that will be my approach. I just haven't had the time.
658778
If you use one of the smaller drill bits and don't have to do more than one hole. Otherwise get a bigger drill. I use mine mostly for pilot holes, but then again I have other drills. The advantage of this drill is that it is cordless and works with regular batteries so you don't have to put up with a cord or an uncharged cordless drill for a small job.
437062
I have a standard household type cordless drill. It's 3/8 chuck. It didn't work, and so I either had to return it or buy a new drill. I didn't feel like buying a new drill. I returned it and I'll get something smaller. Unless you are sure you have a heavy-duty type drill, check it before you order this.
1881348
If you need a 1/2" drill, then this is idea. It does well for building decks, etc. in home use. But, if your needs are more delicate, as mine are in my cabinet shop, like drilling holes in entry door edges for latching hardware and dead bolts, I think it is too aggressive. I use a 3/8" drill for these lighter purpose. This drill is powerful and especially good where a hard working drill is needed, like masonry or rotary drilling bolt holes when building decks. In the situation I stated for shop use,this drill almost went all the way through the door stile. That would have been a disaster for me. It is aggressive. If you need a 1/2" drill, then this is idea. It does well for building decks, etc. in home use. But, if your needs are more delicate, as mine are in my cabinet shop, like drilling holes in entry door edges for latching hardware and dead bolts, I think it is too aggressive. I use a 3/8" drill for these lighter purpose. This drill is powerful and especially good where a hard working drill is needed, like masonry or rotary drilling bolt holes when building decks. In the situation I stated for shop use,this drill almost went all the way through the door stile. That... » Read More If you need a 1/2" drill, then this is idea. It does well for building decks, etc. in home use. But, if your needs are more delicate, as mine are in my cabinet shop, like drilling holes in entry door edges for latching hardware and dead bolts, I think it is too aggressive. I use a 3/8" drill for these lighter purpose. This drill is powerful and especially good where a hard working drill is needed, like masonry or rotary drilling bolt holes when building decks. In the situation I stated for shop use,this drill almost went all the way through the door stile. That would have been a disaster for me. It is aggressive. « Show Less
2177029
I used speed shank accessories which snapped in. Requiring no chuck. I've only used it as a screwdriver to remove screws from kitchen cupboards. It worked perfectly as it was confined space.
2180014
I do not believe that it comes out. I had a very tight fit, too, but I now have a useful space whereas before I didn't. Having a magnetized drill came in very handy! Good luck.
417813
If you go to rollout shelves on Amazon they have people who deal with these and the sizes they carry. Can't remember who I got them from but the first one was Costco. Thinking all small doors were the same we bought more only to find out only one door worked. Even went to lowes and Home Depot. Makes sure you get the width and depth the only place I found anymore that fit was Amazon.com. The vendors had all the sizes ( more expensive) but you only do this once. My friends had done wood ones made. We went with metal. Very good selling point for our home. My husband didn't want the two tiered but it turned out to be a great addition. I can't measure it because we don't live there. If you go to rollout shelves on Amazon they have people who deal with these and the sizes they carry. Can't remember who I got them from but the first one was Costco. Thinking all small doors were the same we bought more only to find out only one door worked. Even went to lowes and Home Depot. Makes sure you get the width and depth the only place I found anymore that fit was Amazon.com. The vendors had all the sizes ( more expensive) but you only do this once. My friends had done wood ones made. We went with metal. Very good selling point for our home. My husband didn't want the two tiered... » Read More If you go to rollout shelves on Amazon they have people who deal with these and the sizes they carry. Can't remember who I got them from but the first one was Costco. Thinking all small doors were the same we bought more only to find out only one door worked. Even went to lowes and Home Depot. Makes sure you get the width and depth the only place I found anymore that fit was Amazon.com. The vendors had all the sizes ( more expensive) but you only do this once. My friends had done wood ones made. We went with metal. Very good selling point for our home. My husband didn't want the two tiered but it turned out to be a great addition. I can't measure it because we don't live there. « Show Less
433125
Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the purpose to drill thousands of holes (in wood) since I've had it, and if it suddenly died I'd probably just buy another of the same. Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the... » Read More Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the purpose to drill thousands of holes (in wood) since I've had it, and if it suddenly died I'd probably just buy another of the same. « Show Less
336453
Yes. There are actually 4 holes to place the two base screws into. Two on each side. The two holes furthest apart are 6 inches apart while the other holes could be 5 or 4 inches part depending in which you use. I did not need to drill. I used a hammer and a punch to start the hole and then screwed in the screws in less then a minute each. My cabinets are solid wood so may e that is why I was able to do this. I hate clean up after using a drill. Good luck
669557
I'm actually concerned as to why specifically license plates. Especially given the small and therefore concealable nature of this drill. To answer the question- on high torque this sucker will drive a 3" wood screw. Just have to push harder than you would with a bigger drill.
1146568
I wouldn't recommend it for any reason (see my review,) but on a good day you should be able to produce a 1 inch hole into a particle board using this driver (drill.) It has decent torque. The problem is that it is slow and unsteady. Slow is ok for driving screws, but makes it hard to drill. Unsteady is not good for anything. (Perhaps I got a bad one? Construction overall is pretty unreliable anyway. If you are considering this one due to the low cost, I would recommend using the budget for a used corded electric drill that will actually work right for all similar jobs and last a decade.) I wouldn't recommend it for any reason (see my review,) but on a good day you should be able to produce a 1 inch hole into a particle board using this driver (drill.) It has decent torque. The problem is that it is slow and unsteady. Slow is ok for driving screws, but makes it hard to drill. Unsteady is not good for anything. (Perhaps I got a bad one? Construction overall is pretty unreliable anyway. If you are considering this one due to the low cost, I would recommend using the budget for a used corded electric drill that will actually work right for all similar jobs and last... » Read More I wouldn't recommend it for any reason (see my review,) but on a good day you should be able to produce a 1 inch hole into a particle board using this driver (drill.) It has decent torque. The problem is that it is slow and unsteady. Slow is ok for driving screws, but makes it hard to drill. Unsteady is not good for anything. (Perhaps I got a bad one? Construction overall is pretty unreliable anyway. If you are considering this one due to the low cost, I would recommend using the budget for a used corded electric drill that will actually work right for all similar jobs and last a decade.) « Show Less
1107681
I've installed about 50 of these. They come with bolts that screw into the knob base. You pre-drill holes in the door or drawer face the diameter of the bolt, push bolt through from the inside and screw knob on the outside. However, the length of the bolts is not long enough for most door and drawer fronts. You need to go to a big box store and buy the same diameter bolt at longer lengths--easy to do, inexpensive, but a step that you are unprepared for. Why the manufacturer does not remedy this problem, I don't know.
406396
No. However, this drill is not direct drive. The chuck shaft is mounted above the motor rotor and a gear drives the chuck shaft. It stops rotating quickly. I just finished a pair of oak cradles, each with 28 spindles and 40 screws. I used this drill to drill the 112 spindle and 80 screw holes with countersinks. The drilled performed flawlessly.
510419
I fhave a standard cordless drill. It just fits in the chuck and I tighten it and off I go. As I recall you should only go in the clockwise/tighten direction. Its easy. And it works very well.