im looking to sand a floor,living room, would you recommend this?? the living room is about 250 square feet. Help?! and then stain it afterwards...
1508216
No it's not suitable for doing a floor, it is difficult to control and only gives a very light sand. You really need a industrial floor sander.
1508217
Awesome sander, i would highly recommend it. I used it to sand my kitchen cabinets and it worked perfectly. They had a laquer finish that was very hard to remove and the sander never failed me. I probably had 20 to 30 hrs sanding time and it is still going strong. It should work even better for floors since the round head does a quicker more aggressive job and you should be able to use that head to do most of your job, but you will also have the finishing head to sand you corners with, thats whats so great about this sander, its 2 sanders in 1
1508218
For trim work ONLY. Too small for the entire process. Rent a floor sander and do the main job with that, then the hand unit to finish. Get all saw dust off before you seal the deal. Plan your exit. Allow plenty of time to dry.
526800
Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely to leave some evidence of your retouching effort. I'd do the entire floor if possible. Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely... » Read More Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely to leave some evidence of your retouching effort. I'd do the entire floor if possible. « Show Less
26820
You could paint. Or better to sand lightly, remove dust w tack cloth & stain&varnish.;
1481607
You can refinish your floors with this product, but it depends on how large of an area you have to finish. This is a small diameter disc it would take awhile. As for sanding without water I would not do that. The water does two things it keeps down dust and more importantly prolongs the life of the abrasive pads, not too mention you get a more even finish by using water.
2181201
Funny you should mention that, bc I bought this hoping to be able to sand a deck. It works wonderfully on single boards, like a railing, so it'd work great for that. That's really what it's designed for. For the actual deck though, this would take FOR EH VER, so save yourself the trouble and get a belt sander or rent a floor sander from home depot. You'll thank yourself. As for grit, for a deck I'd probably go with 80 grit sand paper
295424
This product is more like an oil than a top coat finish so it depends on what the other product you have used as to how it all might look if you go ahead and apply the polyx to the rubbed off area. The good news is that you could give this product a try, and then if it hasn't blended in well, then try sanding later. When you sand afterwards it's not the same as sanding off a 'varnish', you are simply sanding the floor boards themselves (as the polyx is absorbed rather than sitting on the surface). Hope this makes sense. I also am no expert, just a user.
1954224
My space is much like a large loft--open, over 2000 square feet and a pain to mop. Since it's a commercial kitchen, used by groups of people for cooking classes (also, see it on Top Chef on Bravo--the main kitchen), it always needs mopping--my back has had it so I am hoping this can work. But I fear I'd be wasting my money, if I can't section it into small enough parts. "8+ feet" needs to stretch a long, long way to work. Wish someone from the company would respond, but thank you so very much for yours. I know my query is pretty unusual, since this is definitely not a home use question. My space is much like a large loft--open, over 2000 square feet and a pain to mop. Since it's a commercial kitchen, used by groups of people for cooking classes (also, see it on Top Chef on Bravo--the main kitchen), it always needs mopping--my back has had it so I am hoping this can work. But I fear I'd be wasting my money, if I can't section it into small enough parts. "8+ feet" needs to stretch a long, long way to work. Wish someone from the company would respond, but thank you so very much for yours. I know my query is pretty unusual, since this is definitely not a home use... » Read More My space is much like a large loft--open, over 2000 square feet and a pain to mop. Since it's a commercial kitchen, used by groups of people for cooking classes (also, see it on Top Chef on Bravo--the main kitchen), it always needs mopping--my back has had it so I am hoping this can work. But I fear I'd be wasting my money, if I can't section it into small enough parts. "8+ feet" needs to stretch a long, long way to work. Wish someone from the company would respond, but thank you so very much for yours. I know my query is pretty unusual, since this is definitely not a home use question. « Show Less
602246
We did about a week ago. You don't need to sand down to bare wood. You have to follow the instructions for screws, nails, cracks, etc. Oh, and that really prickly feeling on bare feet went away after about a week.
767960
It would probably take you a while depending on the size of the deck. I'd consider a belt sander for the surface, although this would be good for rails.
1117682
you can get inferior sand instead, which is all you need for your purpose, from a big box store. Of course you can use this sand i just wouldn't waste it on that use
1240324
I really don't know, but I will say this... it is ALL ABOUT THE PREP. Some of my cabinets needed sanding, some were fine with the product they provide in the box for use with the scrubbie pad. If I was going to try it on a veneer I would probably sand.
1567237
My understanding of sanding wood floors is you need a belt sander and MUST sand in the direction of the grain. This is a great sander but it's orbital so I would think it would not be optimal for floors. I use this to sand the bottom of my boat. What's really great is there are holes in the sanding disks and with a shop vacuum hooked up it's virtually dustless but again - I think you need a belt sander.
55695
I think so. It does better on rugs than hardwood or tile. I have swept sand up no problem.
599289
It would probably be tough to get into the corners and whatnot, and the disk is also pretty rough, so you'll definitely need to sand quite a bit afterwards. That being said, it really didn't tear up the wood on my house when I used it. I was taking paint off cedar, which is quite soft. Hope that helps!
687713
I started with baking soda for removing the finish off of furniture and quickly went to bagged play sand which I ran through a screen. Depending on how much you need, sifted building sand should work as long as it is dry. If you plan to do a lot of blasting the finer the better it seems to me. You should seriously consider good eye protection, a respirator and appropriate clothing.
50124
I used it to sand a table and chair set which it did really well. Since then I have started sanding and refinishing our kitchen cabinets. using course paper it will take off material quickly.
960526
If by trim you mean molding, it will require a very steady hand to not gouge it. I used it on judge's paneling to remove varnish and also paint samples where I tested colors to decide what I wanted the final result to be. It will remove paint drips and clumps handily - be sure to order extra pads if you have a big area as I went through them fairly quickly, especially the edges when I was doing tight trim since the edges are what fit along tight trim. I also used it to smooth out parts of the molding that had been gouged through the years in a house I redid. I found in the very tiny parts or tight corners that it requires some manuevering, but it is the best thing available that I could find. If you are doing a lot of tight trim, it probably would be a good idea to get an old picture frame molding and practice with that before you start on the main project. Hope this helps. Without knowing precisely what your project is it is hard to say, but we turned a room that made me cringe into a masterpiece with this sander. And, as I said in my review, I ran it for hours at a time. It does get hot when run for that long, so gloves are a good idea.