I'm using this on kitchen cabinets that I've completely sanded down but I'm stuck on what to use on the old holes the hardware left. Any ideas that would be a good match? I've tried mulitiple wood fillers and they all say "stainable" but its not quite...
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I used Elmer's Carpernter's Wood Filler Max - Natural. It dried kind of blue-white. For a couple of holes that were in areas where more of the wood showed through the whitewash I mixed it with a drop of a craft acrylic paint in a tan-ish color - that dried a little more tan, more wood-like. Neither was perfect, but they were close enough on bathroom walls that had been paneled with a beaded white wood panel and trimmed with pine (?) molding.
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I am a novice furniture finisher. I stained a raw wood bookcase. This was my first piece and don't know how the stain would look on a piece previously stained. Sorry.
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I didn't use this on water-damaged cabinets and furniture, but we just pulled up carpeting and discovered several water stains, most likely from canine urine, which darkened the oak floors. I used steel wool and Duraseal Cleaner and waxer which really didn't help. On the large area I used a bleaching product, and even after several applications it didn't clear it up. I finally scraped with a razor and sanded lightly which only lightened it a bit. What is really needed is a deeper sanding and refinishing. Not doing it at this point. Hope this helped. I do really love this product for its advertised purposes. Did a beautiful job on evening out my mom's walnut kitchen cabinets, 50 years old, after using the Howard cleaner.
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Check out this website. This is the method I used and it turned out great! The site I'm listing also links to another tutorial--I recommend reading both. Good luck! http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2012/09/bathroom-cabinets-makeover-my-first-ever-grown-up-diy-project.html
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I don't know about wall paint, my cabinets were stained with glossy finish, I used tsp and then wiped down with windex and my cabinets came out looking brand new.
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I used Titebond II (wood glue) on the bottom piece and all six drawers. I've found this brand to hold longer/better than Gorilla or Elmer's (possibly a local humidity effect?) and you should be able to get the original or Titebond III (three viscosities and drying times) at any home center/hardware store for about $6. A newer product I also can recommend is called Nexabond 2500. It will cost a little more and only comes in short- or medium-handling times, but it's a great adhesive for gluing wood to leather, plastic, plexiglass or other materials and takes a lot less effort (e.g., holding pieces firmly for five minutes is better than using wood clamps for an hour or more). I used Titebond II (wood glue) on the bottom piece and all six drawers. I've found this brand to hold longer/better than Gorilla or Elmer's (possibly a local humidity effect?) and you should be able to get the original or Titebond III (three viscosities and drying times) at any home center/hardware store for about $6. A newer product I also can recommend is called Nexabond 2500. It will cost a little more and only comes in short- or medium-handling times, but it's a great adhesive for gluing wood to leather, plastic, plexiglass or other materials and takes a lot less effort (e.g., holding... » Read More I used Titebond II (wood glue) on the bottom piece and all six drawers. I've found this brand to hold longer/better than Gorilla or Elmer's (possibly a local humidity effect?) and you should be able to get the original or Titebond III (three viscosities and drying times) at any home center/hardware store for about $6. A newer product I also can recommend is called Nexabond 2500. It will cost a little more and only comes in short- or medium-handling times, but it's a great adhesive for gluing wood to leather, plastic, plexiglass or other materials and takes a lot less effort (e.g., holding pieces firmly for five minutes is better than using wood clamps for an hour or more). « Show Less
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I know it can be used for the counter and basin of vantories. If you want to redo the cabinets, Restoleum has a specific product for cabinets, which I haven't tried.
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It brings out the wood grain. I've seen a lot of people say that they don't use it with the darker stains, but I think it makes a difference even with the darkest stains. Even on fake wood cabinets, the glaze gave it the appearance of real wood.
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Personally, this template did not work at all for me . Make your own, it's cheaper and can be adjusted for imperfection on cabinet doors and drawers.
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I made a template or 'jig' using the measurements on the page included with the product. Since I had 9 to install and all drawers were the same depth in cabinets from the same manufacturer, I thought it easier to make a template so I could just mark the holes for drilling rather than try to measure each location. The template works great. I slide it up under the existing rail and mark the three holes to be drilled. I made the template in duplicate i.e. one for left, one for right side. I'd send a picture, but this website doesn't appear to allow an attachment.
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Yes, in order to get the cabinets stained well I removed all screws. You need to do a light sanding anyway to remove the gloss finish. The gel goes a long way. I like the sock method to get gel on and it takes a couple of coats. However, I was able to buy a quart and did my kitchen and a bathroom.
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When in doubt, always go light. You may be sorry if you do anything any darker. The dark stains any grain too dark for light wood. (For me anyway.) I would suggest trying Howard's Restore-a-finish in Golden Oak. Won't change the color at all and gives a beautiful finish, but is a little more than just a spruce-up shine. This is wonderful stuff. Maybe your lumber company will have a sample. I bought mine through Amazon as I was already familiar with product. Good Luck.
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Hello: dark cherry finish - I stained mine even darker to match cabinets and they looks awesome!
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Cant give much insight on backsplash under glass tiles, but as far as the edges go, I would do the granite paint on the edges. I think it would look better than painting the color of the cabinets. The biggest problem we had was that our laminate was not only on the counter surface but also went up the back and one side about 5 inches. It was kind of difficult to get the granite paint to look right where the back/side and top met, and in the corner. I would recommend taping some plastic or brown paper on a good-sized portion of the counter where it meets the back, and doing the back first. After the back dries, I would then cover the back with plastic or the brown paper and paint the counter top. Cant give much insight on backsplash under glass tiles, but as far as the edges go, I would do the granite paint on the edges. I think it would look better than painting the color of the cabinets. The biggest problem we had was that our laminate was not only on the counter surface but also went up the back and one side about 5 inches. It was kind of difficult to get the granite paint to look right where the back/side and top met, and in the corner. I would recommend taping some plastic or brown paper on a good-sized portion of the counter where it meets the back, and doing the back first.... » Read More Cant give much insight on backsplash under glass tiles, but as far as the edges go, I would do the granite paint on the edges. I think it would look better than painting the color of the cabinets. The biggest problem we had was that our laminate was not only on the counter surface but also went up the back and one side about 5 inches. It was kind of difficult to get the granite paint to look right where the back/side and top met, and in the corner. I would recommend taping some plastic or brown paper on a good-sized portion of the counter where it meets the back, and doing the back first. After the back dries, I would then cover the back with plastic or the brown paper and paint the counter top. « Show Less
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You do not need to sand. Just wipe the cabinets down with any household cleaner (windex,409,etc).However, if your cabinets are chipped or paint flaking, a little sanding of those areas is recommended.Go ahead lLee Ann and paint. You will love the result of this easy makeover.
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I haven't used this yet, but you can stain with the Ardex SD-M stain and it will adhere. Apparently, other stains will not work. For more info go to karapaslaydesigndotcom. She is a huge fan of this product, and gives step by step instructions on her blog. Hope to get to using this in my kitchen soon.
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Laminate wood? I would say so. I'm no expert by the majority of our cabinets are particle cheap stuff. The only thing I would suggest is that to at least sand your area down just a tad as I did the same to lift the gloss that is applied to top layer. I used two coats for the color I wanted then applied the clear coat to protect.