I am trying to upgrade a Giant MTX125 from 7spd grip shift, my sone cannot shift. Can you remove the left shifter from the lever?
1522671
I underdstant that you're trying to upgrade your grip shifter. And that your son has difficulty shifting. But why do you want to remove the left shifter from the lever. I will be glad to assist you as much as possibble, please explain a little more.
1522672
The shifter and brake lever are one, integrated piece. If you were to upgrade your 7 speed grip shift to the Shimano EF-51, you would need to remove your existing brake lever as well.
2188736
Yes, both the handlebars and pedals must be removed. However, I don't have to detach the shift or brake cables from the handlebars -- the handlebars just need to be detatched from the fork so they can lie parallel to it.
1511951
Better model SRAM grip shifters like X-0 and XX definitely should be used with the thinner 1.1mm cables whenever possible! (Yes, SRAM do make 1.1mm shift cables). However, for cheaper shifters it matters less, and for the grip shifters on kids bikes it makes no difference at all. Shimano shift cables are all 1.2mm
2282893
Not inside, but right alongside it. If you want you can wrap the handlebar tape over the top of it or carefully cut the end off of your grips and route it under those too. This is very tricky and you might have difficulty doing that. Or you can have it move away from the bar rather quickly which works well with drop bars. You can do a google image search for "bar end shifters" and see a bunch of pictures of how people have them set up. If you want to move these shifters to the handlebars there is a mount sold by Velo Orange that will allow them to be turned into "thumbie" type shifters seen on mountain bikes but they are $58 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8.html It would be cheaper to find some 8-speed MTB trigger shifters but the issue there is that often the indexing of the front trigger shifting would be MTB indexing and not road indexing. It depends on what you have on your 'bent. Personally I would probably go with the VO mounts myself. These bar-ends are such a good deal for HIGH quality shifters that even having to pay more for the mounts you still get a deal IMHO. Quality bar-ends used to run $140+ a few years back.
2038205
These do not act as shifters. As a road and track racer, i honestly i dont recommend these levers. i think that the C clamp that you tighten to the handbar isnt strong enough and i had a lot of play after a short time of using them...
1512023
Yes, but only the right (rear) shifter. The left (front) is a friction shifter which adapts to different derailed setups nicely. But it does not click into its positions.
72092
If I am remembering correctly you have a "t" handle style shifter. I am going to hazard to guess that this particular handle is not going to work. However you may want to try youtube to see if someone has switched a handle over to this style.
1763046
Hello, to answer your question, most guys just put a different wheel on the G27 body instead of trying to modify the existing setup. Here is a video of just one idea from Utube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHGmBHoygJA There are other ideas out there too. If you insist of taking the leather off the wheel (from my experience - And I have had a G25 for years and bought me a G27 when one of my wheel buttons began to malfunction. I have modified the shifter so I can have sequential shifting but that is all I care to do to the wheel. If you decide to take off the wheel leather, I wish you luck as it looks like it is really on there. :) -Val
1339453
The bar ends are open (plastic caps come installed but can removed) and the tube diameter is standard. I can slide in a bar-end brake lever (that's all I have around to test with), so I would assume that bar-end shifters would install just fine. The question at that point would be cable routing. The could come out the back end of the bars, but there is not an exit hole that would route them out the side or bottom of the bars in front of the head tube so that the shift cables could be routed along (or within) the downtube.
1643314
You ned to install a tension adjuster on the rear shift cable, somewhere between the shifter and derailer. This can be an inline barrel type, or a cable stop type.
865958
no this shifting system is meant for three speed manual conversions only in you are just looking for a shift lever and knob then this may work but would take alot of fabrication to get it to fit on your shift mechanism
13411
Not hard at all. Shifting to a higher chainring requires very little effort. It's my assumption that your current cables are worn causing internal friction that makes shifting difficult. This new shifter includes new cables as well.
2106119
yes -- never have removed it myself...but looks like you can ....just unscrew the bolt(lever) thin gee
518747
You would need to find an adapter. I found mine on here... Something like this...http://www.amazon.com/Black-Adapter-Manual-Shifter-Selector/dp/B00P9DVRCS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid;=1422996848&sr;=8-10&keywords;=shift+adapter
1117852
Yes, left 3 and right 7, In my case I disassembled the right one and assembled in a way that it's not longer 7 speeds but "free travel" since my vintage bike used to have those "down tube" friction shifters and the rear wheel is 5 speeds, so basically it works like the old shifter but now I have the control on the handle bar.
1447424
Sup mark, you would slip them on the handle bars (they indicate which one goes on the right side and left side). The "double" rings you see on the shifters can be tightened down to a custom fit by using a screwdriver, you can put the shifting levers to the angle of your desire. Afterwards you would just wire the cables through you bike and to your derailleurs. if you have more questions, feel free to ask lol. hope this helps.
1513912
Take the screws out then the plastic cover pull the shifter down then take a screwdriver and pry the open side between the shifter and handle then spray a little WD-40 to lube it then pull straight up on the handle kind of twisting back and forth it should pull off ..., if not then take a rubber mallet and tap the bottem of the handle.... The handle is just wedged in there