I'm foggy on a few things.1. Power connection - The system comes with a transformer. But you can't connect the transformer to the main unit? Just need insulated wire to connect the two?2. Placement - Where would one normally put the main unit in a two story house? Near the main entrance? Would the alarm be sufficient to alert someone in an upstairs room - or would added sirens be needed? I assume the "remote control" would be able to disarm assuming I had line of sight? I'm foggy on a few things.1. Power connection - The system comes with a transformer. But you can't connect the transformer to the main unit? Just need insulated wire to connect the... » Read More I'm foggy on a few things.1. Power connection - The system comes with a transformer. But you can't connect the transformer to the main unit? Just need insulated wire to connect the two?2. Placement - Where would one normally put the main unit in a two story house? Near the main entrance? Would the alarm be sufficient to alert someone in an upstairs room - or would added sirens be needed? I assume the "remote control" would be able to disarm assuming I had line of sight? « Show Less
1490042
1. Correct. You will need to purchase a two conductor wire (I have 18 ga alarm wire from my local home improvement store) OR you can purchase the Honeywell LT-Cable.2. In my two story home, the unit is across the room from the main entry door. The alarm is PLENTY loud enough for a 2000 sq ft home. The additional sirin really succeeds at letting your neighbors know the alarm was triggered.The alarm remote is radio based and can work through walls. When the remote is used, the main unit beeps one time, very loudly to let you know the status has changed.
1035926
Dear Janet,Wiring instructions illustrations look more complicated than it is. Just connect the two wires to any low voltage tranformer. Just be gentle on the install. This is designed to connect to your existing doorbell transformer for power. If that's not your plan, you need a transformer to supply power. thank you for your interest! Best regards,DavidGood Wood Books
301542
I have not yet installed my system. The instructions are HORRIBLE, and I'm going to have to take some time to sort them out. Regardless, I would assume that it is as safe to leave plugged-in as would be any electrical appliance, and likely, safer than most. (Coffee makers come to mind.) When I do install it, the controller will be near my back door, and it will be left plugged in, unless I decide to simply hard-wire it into the nearby breaker box.
263937
Sidney, I wonder if you tried it? If so, how did it work for you? I am considering the same setup. I cannot run a wire from the inside wall to the outside wall so I was thinking simply mounting the units on opposite faces of the door, hiding the wire inside the door itself. (sorry if this comment is entered in the wrong place)
921200
Donna,FYI - I bought and installed this exact system with no difficulty. Your comment/question is too vague to answer. To recap the usual installation: the red dimmer wire must connect to the "+" side of the LED strip, and the black wire must connect to the "-" side. This is mandatory or else the LED's won't turn on. The dimmer is then plugged into the transformer, and naturally the transformer must be plugged into an active 120 volt outlet. Also, double check that you have good connections at the LED strip. If this doesn't help you, please explain in more detail how you have your system set up. I'd be happy to help you.Doobster Donna,FYI - I bought and installed this exact system with no difficulty. Your comment/question is too vague to answer. To recap the usual installation: the red dimmer wire must connect to the "+" side of the LED strip, and the black wire must connect to the "-" side. This is mandatory or else the LED's won't turn on. The dimmer is then plugged into the transformer, and naturally the transformer must be plugged into an active 120 volt outlet. Also, double check that you have good connections at the LED strip. If this doesn't help you, please explain in more detail... » Read More Donna,FYI - I bought and installed this exact system with no difficulty. Your comment/question is too vague to answer. To recap the usual installation: the red dimmer wire must connect to the "+" side of the LED strip, and the black wire must connect to the "-" side. This is mandatory or else the LED's won't turn on. The dimmer is then plugged into the transformer, and naturally the transformer must be plugged into an active 120 volt outlet. Also, double check that you have good connections at the LED strip. If this doesn't help you, please explain in more detail how you have your system set up. I'd be happy to help you.Doobster « Show Less
1758857
I had not any problem. Instruction manual is quite clear. I recommend only to connect AC power instead of using battery...I first tried with battery, and nothing happened: It was because the battery I had just bought was...empty ! (it happens sometimes, or China imported..)I connected it with my home tv, and have just to zap when door bell rings...Plse let me know what infos you need. And since my english is not very fluent (I'm living in France); what is the meaning of rerode ??I have bought those items last October, and sincerely they work fine. Maybe only concern is to hire poeple to stay on stand-by near the TV ....Best regards. I had not any problem. Instruction manual is quite clear. I recommend only to connect AC power instead of using battery...I first tried with battery, and nothing happened: It was because the battery I had just bought was...empty ! (it happens sometimes, or China imported..)I connected it with my home tv, and have just to zap when door bell rings...Plse let me know what infos you need. And since my english is not very fluent (I'm living in France); what is the meaning of rerode ??I have bought those items last October, and sincerely they work fine. Maybe only concern is to... » Read More I had not any problem. Instruction manual is quite clear. I recommend only to connect AC power instead of using battery...I first tried with battery, and nothing happened: It was because the battery I had just bought was...empty ! (it happens sometimes, or China imported..)I connected it with my home tv, and have just to zap when door bell rings...Plse let me know what infos you need. And since my english is not very fluent (I'm living in France); what is the meaning of rerode ??I have bought those items last October, and sincerely they work fine. Maybe only concern is to hire poeple to stay on stand-by near the TV ....Best regards. « Show Less
1826249
The unit I have requires a hard wired phone line plugged in. I set it up to blend into a book case as if it were another book because the first phone calls go out before the alarm is triggered so you do not want a burgler recognizing it and disconnecting it from the phone wire. The unit is powered by several batteries - the compartment is not easy to open so it would take a thief some period of time to find the battery door, open it, and remove the batteries. At first I was flustered at how hard it was to open the case but then I realized that was a positive feature since a thief would stumble around with the unit for a while. The unit I have requires a hard wired phone line plugged in. I set it up to blend into a book case as if it were another book because the first phone calls go out before the alarm is triggered so you do not want a burgler recognizing it and disconnecting it from the phone wire. The unit is powered by several batteries - the compartment is not easy to open so it would take a thief some period of time to find the battery door, open it, and remove the batteries. At first I was flustered at how hard it was to open the case but then I realized that was a positive feature since a thief would... » Read More The unit I have requires a hard wired phone line plugged in. I set it up to blend into a book case as if it were another book because the first phone calls go out before the alarm is triggered so you do not want a burgler recognizing it and disconnecting it from the phone wire. The unit is powered by several batteries - the compartment is not easy to open so it would take a thief some period of time to find the battery door, open it, and remove the batteries. At first I was flustered at how hard it was to open the case but then I realized that was a positive feature since a thief would stumble around with the unit for a while. « Show Less
849010
Most systems must be installed by a licensed contractor and have a permit to collect the rebates. This insures that the inspector has verified that the system was installed correctly. If you must have a 14 SEER, then getting a 15 SEER would be best to make sure that you at least meet the standards. 16 SEER will meet those standards, and save even more energy, yet is much more expensive. Sometimes a 14 SEER system will not meet the 14 SEER rating due to smaller air ducts, or other problems. Also how many square feet are you trying to heat and cool? What state are you in? This will help verify if the system is sized properly. Also do you plan on installing back up heater? If so what size? I disconnected my 20 KW electric heater when installing my 4 ton heat pump. For back up heat, I will use one section of the 20 KW, and disconnected 1/2 of that, giving me a primary 5 KW electric heat back up. Then have a 10 minute time delay, so that the other 10 KW heater contactor will energize to provide another 34,000 Btu's of heat when it is calling for heat more than 10 minutes. I could have wired the 5 KW heater to run at the same time as the heat pump is in defrost, however I decided I would rather have 5-7 minutes of cold air and save the energy. My 4 ton heat pump makes about 48,000 BtuH of heating, at 55F outside air temp, then will defrost for about 2-3 minutes per hour (at 55F outside air temp). During defrost, it reverses to cooling cycle, and will blow out cold air (if it is 70F inside the home, it will blow out 50F air for a few minutes). By running a 5 KW electric heater ($0.50 to $0.75 per hour - depending on local electric costs) this can warm the air to about 65F while in defrost. I am just cheap and want to save the money! If my family complains to much, I might have to run the 5 KW heater during defrost.
917424
The signal that activates the alarm, including the siren, is relayed through the main unit. Once you activate the panic button the signal is then relayed to the main unit and from there transmitted to the siren. I'm not sure if you're asking if you need the main unit to use the panic button but if you are, the answer is yes. My system works okay although I wish the siren was louder since I live in a rural area and my nearest neighbor is pretty far away. If you live in the suburbs or apartment building then it should be loud enough. Other than that, I don't really have any complaints about the the system. It does take a little bit of learning to understand how it all works but not that bad and I think it's well worth the price when compared to other units.
1153883
First make sure your alarm company is notified to put your system on test. The following assumes use of standard phone wire (r-w-b-g):1. Unscrew (disconnect) the red wire & tape it (that's the power wire);2. Unscrew the white wire (ground);3. Unscrew the red & green wires (these are the alarms wires);4. If there's a resistor soldered to the red or green wire, leave it, you'll need to keep it in the circuit when you install the new unit.Good luck!
1220597
I already had 1 of these units (set up by installer). I bought 3 more on amazon.com and self-installed and they just showed up on alarm.coms site after I configured the main panel. Don't know if this helps you or not.
1556118
Ms. Kittay,I suspect you are trying to buy the smoke alarms from the same vendor I did. First of all, they do not come with an adapter. Secondly, I bought a package of 6 from the vendor to get a cheaper price. However, three of them started beeping (acting they were faulty) right from the start. My guess was that they were not "new" and might have been refurbished, although I was under the impression I was purchasing new products. So, I would instead try going to your local hardware store for these items. That way, you can return them there a lot easier (and cheaper) if they do not work out.I hope this helps you.Regards Ms. Kittay,I suspect you are trying to buy the smoke alarms from the same vendor I did. First of all, they do not come with an adapter. Secondly, I bought a package of 6 from the vendor to get a cheaper price. However, three of them started beeping (acting they were faulty) right from the start. My guess was that they were not "new" and might have been refurbished, although I was under the impression I was purchasing new products. So, I would instead try going to your local hardware store for these items. That way, you can return them there a lot easier (and cheaper)... » Read More Ms. Kittay,I suspect you are trying to buy the smoke alarms from the same vendor I did. First of all, they do not come with an adapter. Secondly, I bought a package of 6 from the vendor to get a cheaper price. However, three of them started beeping (acting they were faulty) right from the start. My guess was that they were not "new" and might have been refurbished, although I was under the impression I was purchasing new products. So, I would instead try going to your local hardware store for these items. That way, you can return them there a lot easier (and cheaper) if they do not work out.I hope this helps you.Regards « Show Less
2279253
The system will not start if the gear is not in neutral (well that's if its connected properly). What I know is that you need a very good auto electrical technician to have it installed. The guy who did the job for me took about 4 hours and charged about just as much as I paid for the product, but it was worth it. The alarm system works like a dream and I got everything that the box said I would. Hope this helps
1290618
The sensors/alarms/PIR's that come with the system are pre-programmed...you can add additional sensors, PIR's, smoke alarms, CO detector, water level sensors to the system (pretty simple process). i purchased two systems (cheaper to buy a smaller system along with my primary system to get the additional items rather than ordering individual) and programmed all the items on one controller (i also have two story with basement). I put an extra siren and multiple sensors and PIR's onto the system with no issues (even on my detached garage about 50 feet away from my house).
1583430
Hi Rick--you have to provide your own transformer (and/or batteries), and buttons. I purchased Heath Zenith 121AC Wired Door Chime Transformer and two NuTone PB7LSN Wired One-Lighted Door Chime Push Button, Satin Nickel Finish. I also separately purchased some doorbell wire, I think 18AWG (18 gauge). I think you can get a higher gauge number (thinner) but I was making long runs to the back and front doors of my commercial building, so wanted to have more copper for the long runs of wire. I specifically wanted a hard-wired doorbell because wireless has not been very reliable for me, and I needed complete reliability. Hi Rick--you have to provide your own transformer (and/or batteries), and buttons. I purchased Heath Zenith 121AC Wired Door Chime Transformer and two NuTone PB7LSN Wired One-Lighted Door Chime Push Button, Satin Nickel Finish. I also separately purchased some doorbell wire, I think 18AWG (18 gauge). I think you can get a higher gauge number (thinner) but I was making long runs to the back and front doors of my commercial building, so wanted to have more copper for the long runs of wire. I specifically wanted a hard-wired doorbell because wireless has not been very reliable for me, and I... » Read More Hi Rick--you have to provide your own transformer (and/or batteries), and buttons. I purchased Heath Zenith 121AC Wired Door Chime Transformer and two NuTone PB7LSN Wired One-Lighted Door Chime Push Button, Satin Nickel Finish. I also separately purchased some doorbell wire, I think 18AWG (18 gauge). I think you can get a higher gauge number (thinner) but I was making long runs to the back and front doors of my commercial building, so wanted to have more copper for the long runs of wire. I specifically wanted a hard-wired doorbell because wireless has not been very reliable for me, and I needed complete reliability. « Show Less
1403641
John, I apologize that it took me so long to get back with you. If you do a search on the type of key that is comparable to the one you have then I am sure you shouldn't have a problem. Now as far as your alarm system, if you set it up yourself; I would think you wouldn't have a problem. But if it was something that was done by a company (as far as the installation and pairing with your key for remote access) then you may have to take it back to them for service. Just my opinion. I am not an expert. :)
306505
Hi Art, I had an electrician run a wire and install an outdoor, weather protection covered, outdoor GFI power outlet on exterior wall. I plugged the heater's power cord into it. Don't hard wire it, as it's handy to be able to unplug the heater when you need to service or repair it. Make it a "two gang" outlet so you can use the other socket for other purposes. If you're asking about a back-up source of power in the event of a complete power outage, I'm not sure what to use for that. Amazon reviews mention using power back-up that's used for computers. The controller was included in box. It looks like a remote, but it is wired to the heater. The wire are not long enough to attach the controller to the wall. So it's just dangling under the heater. I'll need to figure out a way to attach it to the wall.