I want a product that stays clear without yellowing or have an orange tint to it. Did this happened with your project on lighter colored wood?
707136
No.The teak remains true Absolutely no yellowing It is the Best product for outside use I have ever seen! No reservation s
707137
We have a screened porch with flooring made out of cypress, a very light wood similar to pine. Epiphanies gave it a pleasingly warm light amber color. There's been no appreciable change in the hue over the last 15 months. More importantly, this varnish is tough as nails. It's the best exterior varnish I've ever used, by far.
707138
I put it on darker wood and have only the first coat on it so far. I dont think I will be able to tell over this dark wood if it has any discoloration.
1336958
That's a yes and no answer. It can take many saturations to achieve any depth of color. Tinted urethanes in the right shade are a good sealer and part of the staining process. It's always possible but sometimes takes some effort. The cane is not super absorbent in my experience.
200209
Mine has been stained, and the result is definitely not pine looking to me. I wish it were. It looks closer to yellow than pine I am afraid. Perhaps if the staining were done differently you might have a different result, but as I had said in my review, this table was difficult to stain according the the fellow who did it. Each section (Leg, top, drawer face) seemed to "take up" the stain differently. Over the stain he put polyurethane. That may be what is causing the yellowish effect. There is no hint of grain I would like to see. His (and therefore my) recommendation was to buy this if your intention was to paint it. It would be a lovely little table to paint. (hint-hint). Mine has been stained, and the result is definitely not pine looking to me. I wish it were. It looks closer to yellow than pine I am afraid. Perhaps if the staining were done differently you might have a different result, but as I had said in my review, this table was difficult to stain according the the fellow who did it. Each section (Leg, top, drawer face) seemed to "take up" the stain differently. Over the stain he put polyurethane. That may be what is causing the yellowish effect. There is no hint of grain I would like to see. His (and therefore my) recommendation was to buy... » Read More Mine has been stained, and the result is definitely not pine looking to me. I wish it were. It looks closer to yellow than pine I am afraid. Perhaps if the staining were done differently you might have a different result, but as I had said in my review, this table was difficult to stain according the the fellow who did it. Each section (Leg, top, drawer face) seemed to "take up" the stain differently. Over the stain he put polyurethane. That may be what is causing the yellowish effect. There is no hint of grain I would like to see. His (and therefore my) recommendation was to buy this if your intention was to paint it. It would be a lovely little table to paint. (hint-hint). « Show Less
402627
Hi Andy, Do you have a picture? I know pics can sometimes be decieving, but it really could help me better understand the target color amber you are trying to hit. From there, I could attempt to coach you through a color formula that will hopefully get you pretty close to where you want to be. Otherwise, on Pine, you will want to take it very light with these dyes, they really are quite powerful. A very diluted formula of say 1/8th tsp of yellow, a few grains of brown (literally just like 5-10 grains- the darker color will be very pronounced in a soft wood and especially in a light color) - and about 1/4th of a pea size of red dye (maybe like 20-30 grains to 8-12 ozs hot water. Then, just add a couple grains to adjust the color until you hit your target. If the color is missing something and you just cant quite put your finger on it, try 2-3 grains of blue. I know it sounds odd, but the blue can adjust your green tint, especially in a yellow based stain. Hope that helps with some direction buddy.... Thank you again, Keith Keda Dyes Inc
1553177
It dries clear. I haven't used it on any visually critical areas but never noticed any tint. It's great stuff.
1549222
Absolutely not clear. Kind of amber colored. Seems a little darker after a year on the bottom of a snowboard. Not opaque at all but not clear.
689067
If you are using oak it will take multiple layers to get the color dark. If you are using a wood like poplar or pine, I'd start with the darker color then slowly add water to lighten the color with each new layer. It's going to be a challange
1734954
Hi. I have not had it yellow on any wood I have used. Always test a spot or two before applying on entire surface. I like this as it works well on so many woods and holds up so well. Good luck with your project. Last thought, a little goes a long way. Old Nick
417049
No. This is a polyurethane and adds no color or at least none that I could discern even with light woods. The GF Gel Topcoat is an excellent product but follow the directions carefully. I think the worst thing you can do is apply too much. A very light coat dries in an hour or two and then you can sand with a very fine grit paper if needed (I rarely had to) and then apply a second or third coat. The results have been outstanding.
131365
Yes. I've used mine and clean it after every use but still see some green/orange tint no matter what.
1063884
It will darken it to the same extent as an application of lemon oil, if you've used that. Oiling or waxing always makes wood appear just a hair darker, but it brings out the luster and wax protects the surface somewhat. It doesn't discolor or tint, particularly.
77300
It might have a tint of white when you first apply it but it does dry completely clear so your good to go! Unless you want color, haha :)
2216409
This is a great product to stop spliting and checking on log ends. I would use another product like an oil based transparent varnish or polyurethane. If you want the more rustic look from sawmill or chainsaw milling, maybe a deck stain with sealer be best.
177158
The transparency of this product when it's dry has mostly to do with the thickness of the application. If it's smeared on a surface thin, it's pretty clear, or at least it looks that way. But it's actually slightly opaque so the thicker it gets the whiter it appears. In other words, a thick bead, like the thickness of your finger, might appear to be almost white. It's a great gap filler, so I've used it to fill 1" wide gaps that are 1/4" deep... it looks white when you do that. I've also used it to glue together pieces of unfinished wood, and smeared any excess on the surface... it's clear in those cases. Make sense?
308062
It has a creamy color when dried. If you apply too thick you cannot see the state of the wood.
1588188
I didn't have a cloudy effect at all. I had the grey color base epoxy under the clear, with plenty of sand in the clear too coat, and no cloudy finish.
323556
To be honest, never tried it. But I have never seen this stuff change color on anything. I do sand, and STAIN wood and finish, and it doesn't darken, nor color the wood. Do a test spot and see? :)