I don't understand the markings on the reticle. The owner's manual gives a chart with many points on the reticle which are associated with distances, but doesn't explain what they mean. Do you zero at the top of the black post under the multi-layered reticle with numbers on them?Can anyone explain in layman's terms HOW to use this reticle??? I don't understand the markings on the reticle. The owner's manual gives a chart with many points on the reticle which are associated with distances, but doesn't explain what they... » Read More I don't understand the markings on the reticle. The owner's manual gives a chart with many points on the reticle which are associated with distances, but doesn't explain what they mean. Do you zero at the top of the black post under the multi-layered reticle with numbers on them?Can anyone explain in layman's terms HOW to use this reticle??? « Show Less
1541389
Yes, zero at top reticle (100yds). The lower reticles are used for 200 yds, then next one down is 300 yds etc...those other reticles are used to aim at farther distances. For example top reticle=100 yds lowest reticle for 600 yds
1541390
the way I adjusted was to set my target at 25 yards and O at one inch low. I can best explain the reticle as an upside down Christmas tree, I used the base IE. of the Christmas tree cross as my impact point for aiming, at 25 yards the ark of the bullet is almost nill but at 100 yards it seems to hit right on. and it saves a ;oy of rounds for sight in I use this same method for all my high-power rifles and it has yet to fail. I really didn't get the info that came with the scope or just how the numbering was meant to be used, sorry I'm not much help let me know if you can figure the numbers out, Good LuckVirg the way I adjusted was to set my target at 25 yards and O at one inch low. I can best explain the reticle as an upside down Christmas tree, I used the base IE. of the Christmas tree cross as my impact point for aiming, at 25 yards the ark of the bullet is almost nill but at 100 yards it seems to hit right on. and it saves a ;oy of rounds for sight in I use this same method for all my high-power rifles and it has yet to fail. I really didn't get the info that came with the scope or just how the numbering was meant to be used, sorry I'm not much help let me know if you can figure the numbers... » Read More the way I adjusted was to set my target at 25 yards and O at one inch low. I can best explain the reticle as an upside down Christmas tree, I used the base IE. of the Christmas tree cross as my impact point for aiming, at 25 yards the ark of the bullet is almost nill but at 100 yards it seems to hit right on. and it saves a ;oy of rounds for sight in I use this same method for all my high-power rifles and it has yet to fail. I really didn't get the info that came with the scope or just how the numbering was meant to be used, sorry I'm not much help let me know if you can figure the numbers out, Good LuckVirg « Show Less
159479
You zero at the center of the crosshairs, the lower levels help you gauge distance from your initial zero. Standard combat zero is done at 50 meters, so zero at the center crosshairs at 50 meters and you're zero for those crosshairs wil be good for 100 meters if you're using the 5.56mm cartridge
1541391
Sight the top crosshair in at 100 meters. The following crosshairs are for ascending 100 meter intervals. The down side is that they are based on the trajectory of a 55 grain FMJ going 3200 fps., and unless you have a 20'' barrel, your bullet is going 2800fps +/-. The scope is only a 3X and the crosshairs are tiny so they won't be good for long sighting anyway. Just use it and experiment with it. You'll work out something that works for you. I bought it because the crosshairs are etched into the front lense (black), AND you can illuminate them in low light. I have not found those features in a compact scope before. This scope has all the features I'm looking for- for use in a short range weapon. Sight the top crosshair in at 100 meters. The following crosshairs are for ascending 100 meter intervals. The down side is that they are based on the trajectory of a 55 grain FMJ going 3200 fps., and unless you have a 20'' barrel, your bullet is going 2800fps +/-. The scope is only a 3X and the crosshairs are tiny so they won't be good for long sighting anyway. Just use it and experiment with it. You'll work out something that works for you. I bought it because the crosshairs are etched into the front lense (black), AND you can illuminate them in low light. I have not found those features... » Read More Sight the top crosshair in at 100 meters. The following crosshairs are for ascending 100 meter intervals. The down side is that they are based on the trajectory of a 55 grain FMJ going 3200 fps., and unless you have a 20'' barrel, your bullet is going 2800fps +/-. The scope is only a 3X and the crosshairs are tiny so they won't be good for long sighting anyway. Just use it and experiment with it. You'll work out something that works for you. I bought it because the crosshairs are etched into the front lense (black), AND you can illuminate them in low light. I have not found those features in a compact scope before. This scope has all the features I'm looking for- for use in a short range weapon. « Show Less
1541392
Yes zero at center say 50yds.then shoot remaining reticles each at 100yds. adjust as needed.
1541393
zero the center cross hair at 200, that should line the rest up for approximate ranges as markedit DOES depend on load and rifle however, will take some time and experience to match to reality
1978041
jmich; Like you, I certainly was not trying to be glib. I just did not encounter the problem you did. I do have one idea, though: The scope comes with two eyepieces. One of the eyepieces is useful, but the other one I found useless. The target could not be centered or even seen. Hope this helps.J
2138688
RR, I found that you have to determine what distance you want as your target point. Plus, I found that the scope that comes with the rifle didn't do the job very well and I broke it trying to get it to get on target, not only for distance, but, also for the left and right setting. I bought another one, not expensive, and raised the rear sight up by about 1/4 inch on the rifle. My target point is about 250-300 ft.. Raising the rear sight allows for the ability to tune the scope to that distance without breaking it. After having done that, the accuracy was maintained even shooting about 2-3000 rounds in it. I also found that if I put my pellets in lubricating oil, the speed and distance are greatly increased. I found that, at a distance of about 50 feet, a pellet will go through an inch thick pine board. I am enjoying the rifle, I hope you will too! JimS
46826
The click values are averaged between rifle and carbine length barrels. Therefore, the exact point-of-aim/point-of-impact range marking may differ a click or two for a given rifle. Knight's Armament suggests firing your rifle at known distances and record your exact + or - clicks for each range. They say the intermediate markings between major range marking may be used for half values such as 250m, 350m, etc. I have mine on a 20" AR-15 with a government profile barrel and zeroed for 50m/200m. This means my rifle will be zeroed at 50m and 200m on the "2" setting. You can also do a 25m/300m zero. This has to do with the trajectory of 5.56 M855 ammunition. I was dead-on once zeroed while using that ammo.
1167295
Its custom. It has 5 crosses corresponding to 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards. The bottom of the reticle has post marks for 70, 80, 90, and 100 yards. Only the crosses light up o the IR model. Great scope.
1382721
Hi KC,Sorry l gave you the wrong scope info for one of my three ones. The one you are asking about has top, left and right mil-dots. I would send a picture but don't know how. Sorry about that. It is a great scope.
613125
There are four reticles to choose and none of them are the "zombies" or biohazard symbol like on the EOTech.There are the following reticles:1.) Single dot2.) Crosshairs3.) Circle with crosshairs4.) Circle with single dot
1318598
The previous answer is a good one. The 30/30 reticle is useful for slow bullets like shotgun slugs etc where range is critical and not so useful for modern high power rifles that usually have a point blank range in excess of 300 yards. (I.e. the bullet trajectory from the muzzle to the point blank range is within 4 inches below or above the line of sight meaning you put the cross hairs right on the target normally close enough for a big game kill)
1552016
I've searched for your answer,and no true answer other than being pin size. I use it from 100m to 600m,and have a delta point on a 45 degree mount. It's a eighth of size compared to the mil dots beside it. What are you trying to make sure of,that it doesn't cover the target?
2263147
with out the 3x magnifier I wanted the two dot easy to see . with out the 3x magnifier over two dots hard to see them . yeah with 4 dots and no ◾3x magnifier looks like a straight line. I dint want the weight and pay the extra cash. my friend has the 4 dot and 3x magnifier really nice set up. hope this helped you :)
313053
The 3,5,8 and 10 mean the MOA dot size is changing. The number of the setting corresponds to how big of an area the dot covers at 100 yards. It comes with scope rings. I have 2 of these and like them very much. Not sure about the warranty as I have never needed it.
1755201
The reticle is set up for 100 to 500 yards. However the average Joe will probably only ever use a scope to a max distance of 250 to 300 yard. After 300 yards you going to be doing a lot more calculating of windage elevation temperature and a bunch of other factors that the average shooter doesn't really know how to do
1087849
The reticle is different between the models. The reticle is what you aim with. Some models it's a bullseye, some a triangle, others a dot. That's the difference between them.
1766628
The red and green cross-hairs overlap or rather shade the regular black cross hairs in the reticle, you also can adjust the intensity or brightness of both the red and green. You also need low light to dark conditions in order to actually see the colors, the intended design is when sighting a dark background you can see the crosshairs. When i went to the range in broad day lignt turning on the red/green was useless, it was too bright outside to see the colors, not only after i threw a towel over my head and the scope did the colors come thru.
1792637
It will vary a little from scope to scope due to manufacturing variations. It really isn't important as to accuracy that they be exactly the same. The main thing is that the rifle itself is level (not canted). What I do is (using little bubble levels such as Wheeler sells) get my rifle perfectly level and then get my horizontal reticle roughly level to match (by sighting it on a target line that you know is level). Again, the most important thing by far is that the rifle is level.
45916
It's a 4 plex reticle. No mil dot, no hash marks of any kinds. Looks like 4 arrows pointing towards dead center. The glass is flawless, the light absorption is awesome, the turrets are great. Being that Redfield was bought out by Leupold it is made by their standards but not with their price. The Objective Diameter is pretty big. I had to buy Ultra High rings to mount to my AR. I'm pretty pleased with the scope. I would like a mil dot reticle but for the price it's pretty solid. Anything else I can help you with?
1034506
Mine did need a small amount of calibration, my elevation line was too high. Fire at a fixed target from a padded flat surface.Mark your targets and check your calibration accordingly.