I mixed the epoxy today &amp; it still isnt clear. It's thick &amp; white. What did I do wrong? I mixed equal parts, but I used a plastic spoon on cardboard.
1563409
Ours did not turn clear. The color wet (milky, marbly white) was the color when dry. It worked great for what we needed.
1793095
the tube should be the hardener, so it may need a little kneading to make it more easier to work with. If it is too hard, I suggest putting it outside in a warm area. Maybe the warm area for awhile will make it more easier to knead. I also believe that the directions did say to knead the tube first before mixing it with the filler.
519107
Can't say I've done that...I think it might be a bit viscous for that. One can lower its viscosity by warming the epoxy a little, but that will shorten its 30 minute working time.
578753
Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed to never let loose.Joe Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed... » Read More Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed to never let loose.Joe « Show Less
1441587
I put on the colored coat and added the flakes before it dried. then I added the clear epoxy. I think in order to do a 2nd coat of clear epoxy you need to do it quickly or you have to sand the surface for it to stick. I don't see any benefit to the flakes. just decorative. there is a phone number on the product to call the manufacturer. I will tell you if you do it right, this coating is almost impossible to mess up. I make natural soap and it has had lye on it and has not shown any effect. but the key is to do it right. if your concrete has any moisture in it, the coating will not stick. my concrete was very wet and I had to put fans on it to dry for a week. you have to do the moisture test to see if your concrete is dry. this stuff is the best! .
1079745
Hi I've always had good luck with duct tape, just make sure it is stuck well along the crack so it doesn't leak when the epoxy heats up/kicks. Are you using a filler or just straight liquid epoxy? You probably already know this, but it's best to thicken it with one of the thickening agents, like colloidal silica. Cheers Brian
630607
Don't think this is good idea because even mixing a small amount (1/2oz) could produce heat reaction..You should always use the correct harder with the correct resin.. They are all different..
1793916
Let it set for a few hours before allowing the heatsink to become a hung weight off the IC. AS does not make several epoxies as of my last check, there was only this and the alumina (or is it ceramique?) epoxy. The performance difference in use between them is trivial.
1217063
Hi Eric. It just so happens I have stumbled on a nice sealer/finisher, a totally matte spray by Deco Art, Americana. It is nicely clear, doesn't seem to yellow the paint and is just the ticket for the crackle medium. I found it on Amazon, and it may be a bit pricier than something you'd find in Home Depot type box store, but it works fine. I'm doing a big wall cupboard in crackle, and I am thinking about using it on a table if it's conducive to using as a dining top finish. Good luck! Terri C.
206250
1.If you are mixing any kind of epoxy the components must remain separate until you are ready for them2.If you are mixing paints you don't want to contaminate one color with another.3.Sometimes there is no time to completely wash and dry one or two syringes,it's not being lazy you may not have enough time
124645
I only covered flat surfaces (counter top) so my only guess would be that since your covering something bowl shaped you'd have to constantly rotate it to keep the epoxy flowing smooth until it dried. Sorry that's just a guess though. Do they make rotisseries for things that aren't food? You could probably call the company though. I looked them up online countertopepoxy.com
281176
When you add the hardener, mixture will be thin. Wait a few minutes but keep an eye on it. It thickens and you literally only have a short time to work with it. I suggest working in small quantities. Highly suggest doing an experiment first.
576365
The metallics take a bit longer than the flat and gloss finishes in my experience. You can thin it for better results, but using thinner coats of it straight from the bottle may work for you as well, depending on your painting technique (hand painted Vs. airbrush, etc.) Try thinner coats applied to the plastic model and doing multiple coats where applicable, first. If that doesn't/already isn't working, then try thinning it out progressively. You can practice on plastic spoons/knives to get your method down without running any potential risk with your model pieces.
1843949
You can check with the manufacturing company they maybe able to resolve it. They just mixed ours
2047888
You can add up to ounce of `universal' type tints to each kit to make the epoxy into lighter and pastel colors. Universal Paint Tints are a liquid universal coloring system that can be mixed with oil or water-based paints. Since the epoxy is bright white, it cannot be made into dark colors since the base is white. These universal tints are available at paint stores. It is recommended that you have the paint store add the tint to the Part A (Color Component) before mixing with Part B (Epoxy Hardener). If you are using more than one kit, I would suggest mixing all Part A's together tinting before mixing with Part B (just keep mix ratio the same). Have the paint store mix in tint and put on paint shaker for even distribution. There will probably be a small fee for this.
2050921
The color will be close, it does not show metal flake. I did a metal flake and a solid color, the solid color came out right on the metal flake seemed off. The trick is mixing in enough hardener and color because you run out of room in the bottle. The more color the better it looks but make sure you put enough hardener in because it effects the texture and it will go farther( acts as a thinner)
1825096
David, The supplier that we receive our material from has assured us that the blank material that is in question is Mylar plastic. If you would like, please contact us, as we can provide you with the Material Data Safety Sheets for the particular material. Thank you, The Stencil Ease Team