How smothe does this planer get the wood? Dose it jump up when it hits a knot? Thank you. Lewis K.
1533766
No, not if you slow it down when you see the knot coming. It is a great tool. Lots of power, nice features.
1533767
Planer is steady all the way through the cut. Keep your left hand away from the belt drive housing, on underside the belt is not fully inclosed so you can get burned if your not careful. Planer had no problem with a max depth cut on a 18 ft. long hundred and fifty year old oak beam. Will never buy another planer, this is the best I've ever owned. It ROCKS!!!!!
1533768
I've never noticed any jumping. But I'm always taking the thinnest cut possibile.
1533769
It planes very smooth and I've always had it plane smoothly over knots. It might jump if you are not bearing down hard enough. Hope this helps.
1533770
It has done just fine for everything I've used it on, and I've used it on some pretty rough wood.
1533771
Great tool..very strong. Phanes smoothly When you plane over a knot you just go slow.
1614027
Like other planers you will get some snipe if the work piece isn't supported. I have gotten the feel of how to hand hold the work piece and can usually keep it snipe free. If I have a piece that would be crucial I will run a sacrifice piece butted against the work piece. Hope this helps .I do like this planner for the difference in cost of others.
954880
My Opinion: I like this Stanley smoothing plane, and it does not need an adjustable frog. You are correct, one piece is better. Keep the blade sharp, and enjoy using this plane.
662909
Negative. It doesn't fly. It is a really fun tho. I pull it in a hard turn at 40 mph behind my Yamaha jet boat and you can lift the edge and it won't roll over.
1488448
Yes this plane is outstanding for a begginer, That was the reason I bought it. I have tried 2 other begginer planes that cost more money and have not lasted half as long. I have crashed a few times and had to use some foam glue(not super glue) to get the plane back to flying but nothing major that needed me to buy replacment parts for the plane. I have nose dived into the ground, hit a fence a few times even hit a tree and the plane is still flying great. The controller is simple and will not confuse a new flyer, the gyro system in the plane is great and will keep the plane level while flying. Hope this answered your question and if you have more feel free to askVR James Yes this plane is outstanding for a begginer, That was the reason I bought it. I have tried 2 other begginer planes that cost more money and have not lasted half as long. I have crashed a few times and had to use some foam glue(not super glue) to get the plane back to flying but nothing major that needed me to buy replacment parts for the plane. I have nose dived into the ground, hit a fence a few times even hit a tree and the plane is still flying great. The controller is simple and will not confuse a new flyer, the gyro system in the plane is great and will keep the plane level while... » Read More Yes this plane is outstanding for a begginer, That was the reason I bought it. I have tried 2 other begginer planes that cost more money and have not lasted half as long. I have crashed a few times and had to use some foam glue(not super glue) to get the plane back to flying but nothing major that needed me to buy replacment parts for the plane. I have nose dived into the ground, hit a fence a few times even hit a tree and the plane is still flying great. The controller is simple and will not confuse a new flyer, the gyro system in the plane is great and will keep the plane level while flying. Hope this answered your question and if you have more feel free to askVR James « Show Less
208303
Hi Peter, I can't see any reason to get shocked other than the air and dry dust particles flying through the hose will create static electricity. When we use our wood planer we hook up the big dust collector and attach a grounding wire from the thick hose to the ground and it keeps us from getting shocked whenever we touch it. I've seen serious arcs of electricity come off of it when we forgot to hook it up. The wire only needs to be attached to the big collection hose. I've never tried it with a sander but I think the same principal applies.
241705
I purchased mine about 8 years ago and mine came with a wooden case with a set of moulding knives. However, it was not advertised as including them. The planer does not have a locking table so you will get snipe. However, I use a pair of QuickGrip bar clamps under the out-feed of the cast iron table and the opposite end to the top side of the housing (which is cast iron). It eliminates all snipe. This is a very well built planer.
486991
Another thing to remember is that it "snaps" the material, when the blade presses down. There is no sawing motion as such, just simple pressure force on the blade. Be sure to draw your cut lines clearly so you can see them, and perhaps even pre-cut using a straight edge and carpet knife or other tool proper to the material. It works wonders, and if someone is putting in flooring it is a dream to use. It is easiest to use by "standing" on the material, but it will also work cutting board style as well on a table.
1128380
To date, I have only planed alder, cherry and walnut. Recognizing the limits of ANY of the smaller planers, I tend to take more passes with less wood removed with each pass. I have had zero to minimal issues with snipe with this machine right out of the box.
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
2215729
Yes, it's a great planer. I have used it a lot and it is doing a great job. The two speeds in feeding the wood through the planers makes a big difference. The tables and extra blades makes a better deal, but it is still a great planer. The blades are sharpen on both sides and the tables give you extra support, but really you need to support the board to help from getting to much snipe.
1457143
Bob's answer is the first line of defense. I've also experienced that with the blade height adjustment, especially if you rip a lot of mdf. If it's that way out of the box, I'd ask "Is it sticky when the fence is removed?" If not, I'd adjust the back setscrew on the fence rails as one rail is probably fighting the other. Mine is as smooth as glass, so it's not systemic.
1670463
I actually have two of these. The first I have put in a Kreg PRS 1040 table with a Woodpecker fence. The table is pretty solid and the fence is super adjustable. That works well for everyday stuff. The second lift will go in the side extension of my table saw. This will help with longer stock. I've not tried it in any other tables.
1809780
Aside from the previous mentioned nails as well as insuring the boards are flat ahead of time (if a board is bowed going in, it'll be bowed coming out) this planer will handle that job. I ran 180 year old rough heart pine beams through this planer and it did a great job. Unfortunately I did miss a nail or too a chipped the blade but this planer did great job!
598684
A cheap vac will do, but whatever you get you'll probably still need a rubber step-down adapter to the 1-1/2 ID you need for the planer. They're cheap, e.g. at Woodworkers Supply.
265474
There are different models, look in the description when getting one. I got the "strait" one, but it still has like a 3 degree angle to it. I believe the rear of the flight is up and the front of the flight is down while in the fetching jig.
905866
In my experience I use Galahad 9 out of 10 times Chain saw ringlets much faster The plane works but feels a little "jumpy" Perhaps a combo Remove the angle to pencil Mark with the ringlets and smooth with the plane I am very fond of the holey Galahad attachments for shaping anything wood .