In rush with ac line splitter read 49 A at 1x and 122A at 10x on sump pump. Is the inrush 49amps or 12.2 amps. Inrush 48A on fridge hot wire at brakr
1565426
I'm not sure I understand the question. Inrush aside, what was the operating current once the current stabilized. The inrush is caused by the "starting" capacitor. If the cap is out of spec or failing the inrush current will be quite high. If the capacitor has failed completely, the motor will "seize" and if it doesn't pop the breaker, it will self destruct. I home this answers your question.
1565427
My Mastech meter works very well and I would recommend the brand and model to others. However, I do not know the brand, model or the operational parameters relative to the installation or application of your refrigerator so I do not feel comfortable giving advise or even speculating about your troubleshooting efforts. Your question(s) should be directed to the manufacturers of the meter and/or the refrigerator.
1565428
The inrush current is 49 amps. The line splitter is only use for small appliances to check there current ratings. You have a very big fridge or the metre need calibrating. That is a lot of current either way you look at it.
646705
This is a 120 volt unit. You would have to use a splitter and step down the current.
614791
We need to work our math out a bit better here. While 225 watts divided by 12 does equal 18.75 amps. That is on the transformer only. In reality, it is drawing 1.875 amps on a 120 volt circuit breaker. Not taking into account volt drops, transformer draws and voltage availability; but lets call it 2 amps. So no need to place on 20 amp circuit if not available.
660131
115vac 3 prong, 2 amps when dumping ice into bin, 1.6 amps while making ice. So far it's working great in my rv. I only checked previous questions and copied this answer here, sorry, I can't lift it to read, but this seems correct. It's a great little unit if a little noisy...Hope this is helpful. Viv
2187749
I have not found any information in Current Capacity for this switch. I would suspect between .75 and 1.5 amps at 120 VAC. I played it safe and have the switch activate a small ice cube relay that needs about 20 milliamps at 120 VAC. I would suggest doing the same.
1542432
No. My electrician wired this thing in for me and we used the 3 40 amp breakers and #8 wire per the instructions. Here's something we noticed when first testing out the unit with water flowing through to our kitchen sink. With this small demand for hot water, only 2 of the 40 amp circuits were in use. One measured 32 amps, the second measured 27 amps, and the third measured 0. My electrician and I assume the unit holds the third circuit in reserve for situations where more hot water is required. Why heat up two circuits when only 2 are necessary, right? I'm assuming this is the case although I have not read this anywhere. You may want to call the company to be sure. We've been using the water heater for close to a month and it does a good job of delivering a steady stream of hot water for the shower. We're very pleased but there is a little longer delay waiting for the hot water to get to where we need it. If you live in an area where water prices are extremely high this would be a consideration. I have not gotten the first electric bill but I feel certain we will see a savings. Please let me know if anyone tells you different information. Thanks!
2179094
According to the quick installation guide, the maximum amp draw of this unit is 100 amps and not 200 amps as stated on some posts here. How much amp it draws depends on your water usage and temperature. Temperature can be adjusted between 80⁰F - 140⁰F. It does require three 40 amps breakers and that may pose an issue when it comes to older homes. Most older homes main panel is 100 amps with little room for expansion. A 200 amp panel upgrade may very well be worth it.
598013
#8 and if your feeding from another box I would use 75 amp minimum. Comes with 50amp+30amp+20amp=100amps. I think 100amp is the way to go
1449741
Although the numbers appear to match up I would be concerned that the booster pump required a lot more to start up and that the transformer is not designed to have that reserve capacity. The output is 12v DC not sure if your pump is AC or DC.... I think there are more alternatives otu there but theyre cheap enough to try or find a 90 watt one etc. so theres some reserve capacity.... hope that helps...
282167
11 to 24 VAC or VDC at 53mA current. I am powering mine straight off the secondary of an old 12V transformer I had. The transformer is rated for 200mA and my wire run from transformer to sensors is over 150 feet. I use shielded cable for power and signal (alarm out) and my sensors have been rock solid.
298267
I pull at least 40 amps through mine 24/7 during winter. Large instant water heater. To heat a detached garage floor. Works great!
1175402
It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and the wire size (20 amps and a #10 wire). As stated by some others here, it all depends on your setup. It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and... » Read More It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and the wire size (20 amps and a #10 wire). As stated by some others here, it all depends on your setup. « Show Less
2081969
I believe the pump itself operates on 12vac and probably draws less than 1-2 amps. I recently purchased a replacement unit and it is still working OK.
767164
It draws 4 amps (48W) according to label. I have one and works great for us.
784816
My system is 14 years old so I replaced MB and transformer. Current limiter or K1 are usually the problem. I searched different sites and found great info for my salt system problems over the years.
35589
Its 100A max input which would point toward 6gauge if you want to provide full current capacity. I however used 8guage as I'm only pulling maybe 60A max.
1714715
I would, 2000 watts @ 12 volts = 166.6 amps. The hot leg of any circuit (AC or DC) should always be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker. If you don't have a manual on your inverter search the internet to try to find its spec sheet to find out its max load in amps then size your fuse (or breaker) just slightly larger then it's max amp load