Could you please tell me what Color of film when dry? I hope is clear as I want to protect my saw blades but I dont' want to cover the silkscreen with data/information.
1553177
It dries clear. I haven't used it on any visually critical areas but never noticed any tint. It's great stuff.
1553178
Clear. It removes rust, drys to a sheen. CRC has several "green" labels. I can only speak of the produce with PTFE. It works great for my RV needs. Lubes the slide tracks wonderfully and the awning rollers.
77300
It might have a tint of white when you first apply it but it does dry completely clear so your good to go! Unless you want color, haha :)
429636
A liner would make it completely opaque. Without the liner, it's kind of frosted or translucent.
1697102
Thanks, an LCD screen is on a CELLPHONE isn't it? My major was EE they use UV in a lot of processes curing, etching etc. so there could be cause for concern. I thought this was Seller contact NOT buyers. I wrote them also.
2022140
I have not noticed a film. Its like Windex works for windows...its worked great for me. I only use it on my hard wood floors.
1022505
I think because this leaf pattern is so nice I would want it to stand out. I would apply a plain translucent film. In my opinion too many textures would make the effect too busy.
1367079
Not sure; Suggestion; my email plafib@gmail.com I will send you a sample you can try, I would be doubtfulas backing appears to be paper.Not like wet or dry I am used to working with.
1413164
Matte finish. Should work for your application. Get your long straight edge and Exacto knife ready.
1768157
It's like frosted glass, maybe more like wet frosted glass. There won't be any that are clear like glass or it will effect the texture like cellophane. There is clear contact paper that is cheap and acts like lamination. If thin is ok there is industrial cling wrap. If it's for weather proofing I used this. I put a wood dowell taped to the end and on nice weekends I roll the plastic with the dowell and tie it to the top of the window. The rest of the Windows have the plastic taped all the way around for better insulation. It works just as well as double pane windows and allows loads of light through. Very helpful for a window that faces the neighbor's house or alley. It's like frosted glass, maybe more like wet frosted glass. There won't be any that are clear like glass or it will effect the texture like cellophane. There is clear contact paper that is cheap and acts like lamination. If thin is ok there is industrial cling wrap. If it's for weather proofing I used this. I put a wood dowell taped to the end and on nice weekends I roll the plastic with the dowell and tie it to the top of the window. The rest of the Windows have the plastic taped all the way around for better insulation. It works just as well as double pane windows and allows loads of... » Read More It's like frosted glass, maybe more like wet frosted glass. There won't be any that are clear like glass or it will effect the texture like cellophane. There is clear contact paper that is cheap and acts like lamination. If thin is ok there is industrial cling wrap. If it's for weather proofing I used this. I put a wood dowell taped to the end and on nice weekends I roll the plastic with the dowell and tie it to the top of the window. The rest of the Windows have the plastic taped all the way around for better insulation. It works just as well as double pane windows and allows loads of light through. Very helpful for a window that faces the neighbor's house or alley. « Show Less
2230738
Best to use a Worm Drive saw and keep the cut line wet. What I do is to attach a sponge to the blade and keep the sponge wet. That stops the dust and the mesh.good luck.
2216409
This is a great product to stop spliting and checking on log ends. I would use another product like an oil based transparent varnish or polyurethane. If you want the more rustic look from sawmill or chainsaw milling, maybe a deck stain with sealer be best.
345169
Having never had to do it, I can only offer suggestions. Not a technician, but at 67, been around the block a few times enough to garner experience. ;&lt;) 1. Is it a hard water accumulation (white powder) ? If so, soak in vinegar. 2. Is it possibly fabric strands (shouldn't, but could be) ? If so, try to remove the screens. You might try soaking them in bleach or drain cleaner (it's main ingredient is bleach). After removing the worst of it, you could then carefully (IF the screen is metal and there is no RUBBER gasket), hold the screen over a flame to burn off the rest. OR, you could spend a lot of time meticulously picking out whatever is left. All I can think of. Hope I've helped.
2078477
Aloha, Tom. I need to cover a bathroom window with this material for passing final inspection. It is a clear, plastic film, called "4 mil security film' because it is tough enough to keep robbers at bay. See the YouTube video of thieves giving up breaking into a storefront covered in this stuff. Directions for applying it comes with the order. I saved $170 by buying this and doing it myself over the charge it would have cost me to have a "pro" come out and do it.
1221093
In my opinion, it is better to go by sight than laser for several reasons. First, if you are working in the sun, it is often next to impossible to see the laser if the sunlight overpowers it. Second, if the laser and saw blade are not perfectly aligned, you may inadvertently incorrectly cut your material. Third, you need to know where your laser is aligned relative to your blade which will be different with each blade and whether you are cut is to the left or right side. Finally, if you are color blind, as am I, the laser line will appear to move. Although there are glasses to assist, I personally cannot see the line worth a darn. My advice is to skip the laser, get familiar with your saw so you know the proper location to mark your material, bring the saw blade down to your material before pulling the trigger to align your cut, make any small adjustments, re-check the alignment, be certain your hold hand is well clear of the blade and then pull the trigger.
1865877
The coating is most likely going to wear away with heavy use unless you plan on using it to cut mostly soft materials. I have the non-coated A1 and its held up great over the years with no rust issues. I also have a pilot with the coating and most of the black coating has worn off around the cutting edge. IMO I don't really think a coating is needed if your worried about rust. If your batoning through chunks of wood the black coating seems to have a slight sticky feel to it as well. I personally like the A2 and A1 non-coated.
834379
I used this same film on a window in a duplex I rented and just peeled it off before I left. I then cleaned the window with a standard window cleaner. I had only had the film on for 1 year. Gila offers some alternate ideas http://www.gilafilms.com/en/Film-FAQ.aspx.
1785379
As it turns out, no one on this post has actually stated what type of steel this is made from. The fact that it has carbon in it doesn't say much about its stain resistance. My Henckel blades are fairly stain resistent, I suspect they are 420 HC.