Has anyone used this for 120V lighting? I want to try it for ~10 feet of 2amp load for a ceiling fan.
1537082
I haven't tested that myself but that's well within what the cable will handle. That should work just fine.
1562399
I use it for 8 cfl bulbs @23watts each, and two 4' fluorescent lamps in my garage. Total is way over the 150 watt cfl rating, and it's worked fine for over a year so far.
335764
I use it only for fans in bathrooms. I have installed 4 of them and they all work great. I dont see why they would not work as well for a ceiling heater. they are just timing and turning off/on the device no matter what wattage the device itself draws. you could check with the manufacturer to be sure. good luck. R
2064096
I use Sylvania 40 watt - 120 volt - A15 - Medium Screw (E26) Base - Soft White - for Ceiling Fans (40A15/SW/FAN). They come in a 4-pack, listed with "Double Life" and "Vibration Service" on the package. I have my light on a dimmer and bulbs work well.
47308
I TRIED to advise someone earlier that capacitative loads such as electronic ballasts for LEDs & compact-fluors would be PROBLEMATIC, so nobody should be surprised. The only way I can see to make such a thing work is to do one of the work-arounds I have tried and succeeded with: 1. Use on a circuit, such as a ceiling fan/lamp fixture, where the capacitative and inductive loads help "cancel" each other out... i.e., screw-in the fancy bulb all the way and set the fan to at least low speed at all times. THEN, the fan will always move a bit (but will NEVER attain full-speed performance at any mechanical setting), but the e-ballasted bulb will at least turn and OFF decisively. THIS is the problem I'm currently struggling with as I dread the approach of Summer, where I won't be able to "feed" my current-hungry ceiling fan thru that current-limiting 6696 wall-switch.... The other workaround yopu could try is to put a low-wattage incandescent bulb (resistive load) in as part of the usual combination of bulbs in the ceiling-fixture. Currently (no pun intended), I use none of the fancy bulbs and rely solely upon the li'l 20W tungsten bulb in the whole ceiling fixture-- works GREAT... dimming/set and everything. I've also found that one or so fancy bulbs will also operate "properly" in the ceiling-fan fixture WHEN and only when the incandescent bulb is also operating. The e-ballast will cause the fancy bulb to sputter-- even as the incandescent is dimming-- but at least it will get to full-on or full-off in a second or two. Such is not possible with the fancy bulb(s) comprising the total electric load on the e-ballast alone. It's a bad, caveman-ish design; the older versions (with the 4-batt remotes) were less difficult... bulb-sputter and never a full-turn-off without the fan being at least on "low," but at least they would allow FULL-speed operation of the fan.... I'm working on the problem... thinking of a dual-switch solution for the fan only... so stay tuned....
562068
This would work for low voltage sources like LEDs. If you wanted to use it with 120v, you'd need to pair it with a relay switch like this one: Amprobe RC-120S Closet-Type Remcon Relay Switch
2150908
Manufacturer's rating is 300W / 2.5A maximum load. It is *NOT* for high current applications. I use it for controlling exterior lights on a detached garage.Look here:http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91WEInllQDS.pdf
386798
The fan has to use less than 300W. It has a "Software Fuse" that will shut off all power to a load exceeding that. I tested my RP200 Home Dimmer Module with a Honeywell HEPA Air Purifier and it seems to work okay. (I don't know how many watts it uses) Probably you would want to set your dimmer to 50% - 100%.
1752446
This switch most certainly DOES work for incandescent bulbs. I know this, because it is currently (get it?) working in my incandescent lamp. If your original dimmer was 500W 120V 60H this will work. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I can't think of a single way the switch would know what type of bulb it is outputting power to, which is why I used it, and I couldn't be happier.
1587110
I tested mine with two of the HitLights 5m cool white lights and ran it for about a half hour. The power supply didn't get noticeably warm so it didn't seem to be overdriven with that many lights. I would recommend going to the higher-rated power supply as a 48W supply will probably get hot with a maxed out load on it and fail prematurely, especially if you are going to add jumper wires to connect the strings or any smaller segments you cut and connect.
1564947
I am currently using it on a circuit with 2 - 60 watt fluorescent bulbs and 1 - 75 incandescent bulb and it works fine. If it get time, I will try to remove the incandescent to test it with only fluorescent.
219842
I don't think it will handle the current for the lighting. Belden Co. makes a three conductor shielded cable that should work for you.
1645945
If the chandelier uses 120-volt wall power, this wire is too thin to be safe. Look up what's recommended for work at wall voltages. If you're unsure, ask an electrician. Your local building code may also have requirements relating to built-in light fixtures.
1349615
I believe this switch is rated at 1800 watts. As long as you fan is not drawing more than that, you should be fine to use it.
1996961
I used this for low voltage under cabinet lights. I don't if it would work with standard incandescent lights. You could send an email to Westek and ask the question. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
814256
I think this should work just fine - but I bought 2 dimmers and only one worked. The voltage of your power module is in the range of the dimmer and the current draw is well under the 2 amp. maximum. I cut the connectors off and soldered the wires directly into the circuit and the one unit works well.
1896693
Are you using this for LED tape light? The dimmer is rated for 12 volts. If you hook it up to a power source with a voltage greater than 12 volts the switch may work for awhile, but will eventually get fried.