For poly and epoxy surfboards, what would be recommended for each, with minimum yellowing &amp; easiest to sand and maybe even polish after 600/1000grit?
1562337
Hi again Good question and very important. You really do not want to use a GLOSS resin as a laminating resin because it has a surfacing agent mixed-in. It can cause delaminations. Polyester LAMINATING would be the call
2087745
I used adhesive vinyls on the surface & then used urethane. I believe you would be able to use acrylics & then use a varnish coat for lasting durabilty. I'm sure anything would scrape off if road hard.
1499944
I'm not a glue expert but this is the best epoxy for plastics I ever try. I heard about application for sail boat ballast in salt water. Swimming pool job looks easy to compare with. Important to keep surfaces perfectly clean and adhesive (surface must have some fine structure for glue to adhere, not be shiny or glossy). Some plastics required flame surface activation. Because glue when cured stays flexible, water pressure will only help to seal connection.
1615979
I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover. (See also: www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/ I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover.... » Read More I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover. (See also: www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/ « Show Less
835259
Hello -- I bought this directly but it was for my contractor to use on our new epi (sp?) -- I believe they mixed it with water. He had used it before on another project, and like it a lot. So far, it has performed well on our deck.Thanks.
769322
Grit and size are what is important. Almost any brand is good anymore. Some, though, works better wet with water and some is better dry. For wood I'd say dry is best.
325575
What I use after applying the stain is a polycrlyic works awesome and only take a small amount. And it won't yellow after time like polyurethane
1812654
For best result you need diferents pads an apropiate chemical, remember low speed is for buff, dont use more that # 5 to polish
2257770
Sandblast and powder coat the deal. Don't mess around with anything else or you will be wasting your time.
1078736
I would use latex. The epoxy will stick better and the finished product will be just as glossy.
188320
I use an X-Acto #1 knife with a few #11 size blades. These are great. I highly recommend a Tamiya 74001 Side Cutter for Plastic (or similar product but the Tamiya one is top quality) to remove parts from the trees. For glue, old fashioned Testors tube glue is handy for the main hull parts and sticking some of the small parts in place. For overall gluing, I use Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement. Some Tamiya Basic (grey) putty will be handy for the hull seam, if that kind of thing is important. You can get some assorted wet and dry sandpaper from a local hardware store to smooth out the putty. I chose not to use the kit's somewhat inaccurate painting guide and used colors based on specific Arizona information you can find online. But, in general, I used some of the excellent Tamiya spray paints for the hull and superstructure colors. I finished the decks by hand with several coats of enamel wood color/deck tan paint. If you don't have all of the supplies up front you can pick them up as you need them. Some things like a parts cutter are fairly expensive but once you have one, you have it for many, many, years. You might also check out some of the model ship building boards online such as steelnavy.com that have discussion forums, galleries of built model photos, historic information, etc.
1073784
I should also mention that I really like Good Stuff! Its a gel that is easy to apply with a lint free rag. I make end grain cutting boards and 3-4 thin coats produces a beautiful and protective finish. I do refinish the boards every 6 months but they take a beating during those six months. I hope this helps.
879732
Lightly sand with fine paper ( 220 ) to remove the poly first. Any amount of sanding will also remove the old stain as well but it will be easy to even out with one coat of the gel stain and look great! Use a satin poly over that for a perfect finish.
885056
At any boat shop you can pick up the rubber contact cement that is recommended for this. Just let them know what you are try to do, unless they can do the ultrasonic weld on the area for you.
291716
I have used the Rotex for bringing up the gloss and knocking down the orange peel from spraying on polyurethane and also on epoxy barcoat finishes. I used it in the rotary mode ending with 4000 grit paper and a bit of water or mineral spirits. I also used the hard felt and soft pads after the 4000 grit, but honestly they didn't seem to make much difference, the 4000 grit was the real ticket. I can't speak to other polishing scenarios, but the Rotex worked well in these cases.
1107546
I finished a table I built two years ago, fished with Danish oil then used arm r seal satin. It looks great after two years. It isn't shiny at all but very durable. Use at least three coats ( I did 7 ) with very light wet sanding with 600 grit after the 2 nd coat and between each successive coat. I used a staining pad to apply and it was one of the easiest finishes I've ever used
1342800
I started with the one step compound and the Orange pad and it came out flawlessly. I'd recommend in progressive grades to be safe. Always use a wax sealer after otherwise that oxidation will come right back.