Can you run a mitered cut on the sled (i.e can you angle the stock at 45 degree's). I'm thinking of using this for picture frames
1974081
I don't believe you can angle the stock without a wedge, and then there might be issues with holding it stable. You could keep the stock at 90 degrees, flip it on edge and use a 45 degree router bit, as long as the wood is not wider (taller when on edge) than the height of the bit.
1974082
I'm not 100% sure what type of 45 degree you are talking about cutting, but I believe you are referring to using it to cut your corners to create a 90 degree corner. If that is the cut you are looking for then this jig will not do that.
1974083
I don't think this would work. There is only 5 5/8" from the fence to the slotted plate that secures the board. If you removed the plate and used a 45 degree wedge, only one of the clamps would contact the material because of the way they are implemented.
1974084
Unless you wedge a 45 degree shim against the perpendicular extruded aluminum I would say no. It is really designed to hold the rails at a 90 degree angle. Its a great product for routing rails
1974085
Rob, I never tried that but it should work as long as you get it secured. The Woodpecker folks would be the best people to ask.
1590220
I wouldn't use it for that purpose. It is not designed for that kind of delicate work and would not produce the kind of cut you would want on a picture frame. If you are making a lot of picture frames you should invest in a nice miter saw and put a really fine Diablo blade on it. You can get one for not much more than this bare tool DEWALT costs. I hope this helps Ana and best of luck with your projects.
1527763
Mine has stops for 45 degrees -- both positive and negative. I've found that Rockler is really good to deal with and helpful, if you have product questions. I've called them about a couple things over the years, and they were always willing to find an answer for me, so you can also check with them about this saw, but it does have stops for common miter cuts.
1531304
Depends on the thickness of the frames. Just to let you know the blade isn't perfect 90 degrees to the table. It's like 1-2 degrees off. For small things that's not a big deal. Larger thing you'll have squaring issues. For my need its not a factor.
1296503
Sure. Just set the devise on the table portion and zero it then sick (magneticly) on the blade to deiermine the angle to be cut. It works like a level so I can't say it works setting a miter angle.
1547735
I would definitely use a jig to keep your angle correct, but the 3/16 seems very small. Refer to your owners manual for the correct file size, and angle for your saw.
2153335
The rig is based around standard 15mm rails, so yes - what you're proposing is possible. I have already combined this rig with another to make a monster Frankenrig. The joy of industry standards never gets old. ;)
681484
No, unless you are using it on one of the "dry cut" slower turning miter saws. A regular miter saw spins at 3,200 - 3,800 RPM. A "dry cut" metal saw turns at 1,300 RPM. I believe this blade is rated at 2,000 RPM maximum. Another consideration is that there is no proper way to clamp your metal in place to cut. A "dry cut" saw has a nice sturdy vice to aid in clamping. A regular miter saw does not provide the needed clamping force to resist movement of the stock being cut. Once bad move cutting can cause damage to the stock, the saw fence, arbor shaft and injury to you in a worst case scenario. Be safe! No, unless you are using it on one of the "dry cut" slower turning miter saws. A regular miter saw spins at 3,200 - 3,800 RPM. A "dry cut" metal saw turns at 1,300 RPM. I believe this blade is rated at 2,000 RPM maximum. Another consideration is that there is no proper way to clamp your metal in place to cut. A "dry cut" saw has a nice sturdy vice to aid in clamping. A regular miter saw does not provide the needed clamping force to resist movement of the stock being cut. Once bad move cutting can cause damage to the stock, the saw fence, arbor shaft... » Read More No, unless you are using it on one of the "dry cut" slower turning miter saws. A regular miter saw spins at 3,200 - 3,800 RPM. A "dry cut" metal saw turns at 1,300 RPM. I believe this blade is rated at 2,000 RPM maximum. Another consideration is that there is no proper way to clamp your metal in place to cut. A "dry cut" saw has a nice sturdy vice to aid in clamping. A regular miter saw does not provide the needed clamping force to resist movement of the stock being cut. Once bad move cutting can cause damage to the stock, the saw fence, arbor shaft and injury to you in a worst case scenario. Be safe! « Show Less
1089036
Don't know about that. Do know that the design of the jig allows a lot of play. It's about impossible to drill the holes in the correct location. I ended up not using it and did the job on a friends mill. Save your money and go to a gunsmith to have the job done
1913442
I don't see any reason it won't work. Fantastic gauge, enjoy. Once it's zeroed at 90d everything else is dead on. I cut 8 45s and no matter how I put them together they came out at 90 degrees.
1811290
If you're able to set up a jig for stability and accuracy - I think I would give it a try. It really puts a circular saw to the test though. Safety first!
1395392
Paul, sorry for the delay. A busy time of year for a minister. I'm not exactly sure about your question, so if you give me a little clarity I'll do my best. Taking a guess at what you might mean, there is a place to hold/store the miter gauge, on the right side. Is this what you mean? Or, do you mean to secured the angles cut (yes). Looking just now at the other response, I assume you mean to extend the gauge. Correct you can add, or clamp your own. Pls respond directly if you wish to revmike@churchonthepark. Merry Christmas.
1670463
I actually have two of these. The first I have put in a Kreg PRS 1040 table with a Woodpecker fence. The table is pretty solid and the fence is super adjustable. That works well for everyday stuff. The second lift will go in the side extension of my table saw. This will help with longer stock. I've not tried it in any other tables.
1501512
If you have a weaver or picatinny rail section mounted to the handle, I can see no reason why not. It has been my experience however, that the addition of that rail section is rarely solid and stable and always places the optic (any optic) so high as to be very un-natural feeling. I can't get a proper cheek weld and have to lift my head out of contact with the stock. Some of today's more sophisticated stocks with adjustable cheek pieces solve that problem......all it requires is money. Good shooting.
1892964
As far as I am aware, there is no angle/corner, be it inside or outside that this tool will not read. Pay attention to the exact reading/degrees, set your miter saw accordingly, make your cuts and get perfect joints first time, always. This is a really useful tool.
956671
No! 30 round mag is too long for this particular sled. However, a ten round mag works great! This is the only time that a 10 round mag is useful - since you're only using the sled for zeroing.
1487538
Hi there. In a perfect world it would be helpful but isn't 100% required. There is enough adjustability in the fixture bar that you can be slightly off. I've made 5 crosscut sleds with these and didn't own a self centering bit. Try clamping a good straight edge to the fixture bar when you tighten the screws down. Also if you are unsure of this or the incra ones, I prefer these. Hope this helps!