Installing Trex deck. Problem I see is the long sides(20')are against a fence & my house. How would I fasten those end boards as jig wouldn't work?
1975044
You just have to face nail them, use the drill bit to counter sink the holes
1975045
Hey Gary,I did have similar situation her: deck against the house. The solution was to screw from the top, face screw. Just use the drill bit from the kit and drill enough so the screw head will be under the deck level by 1mm or 2mm. To hide the screw I used some wood filler and sanded later. You only need to do this on one side of the boards as the other side you can pre-drill away from the obstruction (house wall) and screw without the jig, taking care to not over screw. After oil, the wood filler is almost impossible to spot!
1975046
Gary, I had the same issue against the house. I was using treated pine and I simply "face-screwed" the boards using the Kreg screws, with excellent cosmetic results. You can fill the holes if you like but they are nearly invisible as is. If you are using a composite, the holes would certainly be more visible, but it would require a very close inspection to even notice them. After you use the system and get the hang of it, you will be able to "freestyle" in several challenging position problems. Hope this helps!
1612511
I put the mounting hardware that came with the board on the twenty behind the board of course, and for d a stud and put a 3 inch screw into it and just slid the board on there. If you want something to keep the board completely secure you may need to buy an extra mounting kit for the bottom.
71649
Well, we just put ours up again this year on an 8'X10' deck we built for it. I will definitely need anchoring and yesterday I purchased some thin threaded rods that I am going to install between the decking boards and fasten the feet of the frame with washers and wing nuts. I don't really want to drill holes in my deck, so I am hoping this will work. Also, I put plastic shelving inside on both sides of the tent with my plants on them; this also helps to secure it from windy and stormy weather. I will need to put some kind of heat source inside, as well; not sure what though. I like the idea of the reptile heater and am going to look into that. Hope this helps. Well, we just put ours up again this year on an 8'X10' deck we built for it. I will definitely need anchoring and yesterday I purchased some thin threaded rods that I am going to install between the decking boards and fasten the feet of the frame with washers and wing nuts. I don't really want to drill holes in my deck, so I am hoping this will work. Also, I put plastic shelving inside on both sides of the tent with my plants on them; this also helps to secure it from windy and stormy weather. I will need to put some kind of heat source inside, as well; not sure what though. I like the idea... » Read More Well, we just put ours up again this year on an 8'X10' deck we built for it. I will definitely need anchoring and yesterday I purchased some thin threaded rods that I am going to install between the decking boards and fasten the feet of the frame with washers and wing nuts. I don't really want to drill holes in my deck, so I am hoping this will work. Also, I put plastic shelving inside on both sides of the tent with my plants on them; this also helps to secure it from windy and stormy weather. I will need to put some kind of heat source inside, as well; not sure what though. I like the idea of the reptile heater and am going to look into that. Hope this helps. « Show Less
2266615
There is a bracket that screws into the deck or some flat surface on the deck. The surface must be about 24 in. long. It works very well.
1671337
Strongly suggest you did what we did...get some short rebar rods and pound them in along-side the legs. Then tether them to the legs with cable ties. No chance of winds blowing it over now.
738858
when you drill or nail the anchors make sure they're even and they're about 33in apart. Also make sure that the short bend is facing upwards towards you (like an upside-down chair). The place the board on it. the anchors will slip in between the border and the actual board
934867
Hi Johnathan, I think the best way to do what you want to do is to use a flush cutting bit adjusted to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper away from the plywood for the final pass. Adding a larger base made from masonite or plexiglass could help prevent "dig in" of the bit as you approach the edge. After the last pass with the router, carefully sand the edging flush with the plywood.
530818
Your bridge MUST have the "sides" to it. Not the flat ones otherwise it has nothing to grip on. You may have to give it a little love tap with a rubber hammer to make it snug. Looks cool!
693664
I bought some sectional clamps, but I haven't installed them yet. I don't think cable ties would work well bc the legs are so short. I used rubber pads on the feet as a stopgap; they seem to eliminate some of the sliding around.
1441344
The most important thing to do is make you sure find studs to drill/screw into. Personally, I used Tapcon (blue) screws, but most screws that are at least 2 inches in length with some decent threads on them should do the trick. Good luck and happy swinging!
721590
great idea with the auger anchor. i was going to buy a big square one and i wasnt sure how i was going to attach the opposite side.. i might try that.
2113902
No problem, just be sure that your fasteners are attach to studs or thick wood... Enjoy
1798589
I've got a Delta Unisaw with an Incra Fence system. My fence extends past the front of the table about 5". I can easily do a taper 30" using the jig. To safely extend much much beyond that distance you would have to have a properly aligned indeed table and put a fence extension on. If you did that your distance cold be as long as you make your indeed table/fence extension. Hope this helps.
1799790
You'll probably be better off to buy the 18' pergola and shorten the "beams" that sit on top of the brackets. If you cut beam where it connects to the other half, then put some sheet metal screws in the top of the connection for stability, the tapered ends would remain the same, only the piece would be the right width. Do the same with the 2 X 2 pieces that sit at the very top, sealing joints with silicone. The heaviest part of the entire piece are the side brackets; otherwise the cross members are very lightweight and should work well, without concern of sagging, for your project. Hope that helps. Maybe use the remaining support bracket for a mailbox, or if hung upside down, for hanging planters.
1876759
I anchored mine to my wooden deck, but if you try asphalt you will need to use lag bolts or lead shields to keep it in place
1116185
Hey Gary, I did have similar situation her: deck against the house. The solution was to screw from the top, face screw. Just use the drill bit from the kit and drill enough so the screw head will be under the deck level by 1mm or 2mm. To hide the screw I used some wood filler and sanded later. You only need to do this on one side of the boards as the other side you can pre-drill away from the obstruction (house wall) and screw without the jig, taking care to not over screw. After oil, the wood filler is almost impossible to spot!
786559
jointing edges are not a problem but face jointing over 6 inches presents several problems. First you run one side through then run the other unplaned area through. You need to take a pass one after the other to keep them even. You should be sure to adjust the fence to 1/2 the board's width so that you are able to be uniform in the passes. Ideally you should use a surface planer or large drum sander greater than the dimensions of the board you wish to plane