The description of the output contradicts itself, at the top it says 10,000 to 20,000 KW per year and later it says per month. Which is it?
1974426
Can't be per month, as it's rated at 10 KW output, which if it ran 24/7 (i.e. in the dark too) for a month, would only produce 10KW * 24 hours * 30 days = 7,200 KWH. A number nearer to reality would be 10 KW * 8 hours/day * 365 = 29,200 KWH, which assume it's always perfectly sunny and output is at peak level. So under realistic conditions in a very sunny location (Arizona say), I might believe 20,000 KWH per year.
1974427
The kit itself is rated in KW (instant power in bright sunlight). To figure your kwhr/year, you need to know the number of sun-hours in your locale. An easy calculator to do this at http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/calculators/PVWATTS/version1/ . At the web site, pick your state and nearest city, which will give a form to enter numbers. You can enter the KW rating, roof angle and azimuth (direction). You will get a chart showing monthly output in KWHR's. In the northeast, a 10kw system will produce 10,000-13,000 kwhr/year. In Arizona, the same system will produce 17KWHR's per year, due to more sunlight. The kit itself is rated in KW (instant power in bright sunlight). To figure your kwhr/year, you need to know the number of sun-hours in your locale. An easy calculator to do this at http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/calculators/PVWATTS/version1/ . At the web site, pick your state and nearest city, which will give a form to enter numbers. You can enter the KW rating, roof angle and azimuth (direction). You will get a chart showing monthly output in KWHR's. In the northeast, a 10kw system will produce 10,000-13,000 kwhr/year. In Arizona, the same system will produce 17KWHR's per year, due to... » Read More The kit itself is rated in KW (instant power in bright sunlight). To figure your kwhr/year, you need to know the number of sun-hours in your locale. An easy calculator to do this at http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/calculators/PVWATTS/version1/ . At the web site, pick your state and nearest city, which will give a form to enter numbers. You can enter the KW rating, roof angle and azimuth (direction). You will get a chart showing monthly output in KWHR's. In the northeast, a 10kw system will produce 10,000-13,000 kwhr/year. In Arizona, the same system will produce 17KWHR's per year, due to more sunlight. « Show Less
815155
I've been using it side by side with a digital usage meter provided by my utility company (SMUD) and it is always within 30 Watts (shows 30W less). Not a scientific test though :).
541034
The unit itself would draw practically no current either on or off. It may cost over a dollar a year to operate if you pay $0.15 per Kwh for electricity.
2092153
With 12 hours a day usage, it should be around 1 kw a week or 50 Kw a year. The problem though, is that due to the bad quality of the unit, they turn into permanently "ON" lights after some few weeks of use and the electricity consumption will raise along. I do not recommend anybody to purchase this unit
1228604
no it is not, plus there was a recall on them i still have not been able to get my money back! my electric bill went up to over $400.00 every month from $98.00? during christmas my eletric bill had never been that high....piece of junk. they should not even still on the market since they had a recall on the 2 models i bought from amazon not even the company will answer the phone.
2149870
It's hard to say exactly. I keep this one on all winter downstairs and I keep an oil filled heater on all winter upstairs. My electric bill is about $100.00 a month more for both running pretty much all the time. But, my gas bill is way lower than it would normally be so, it balances out. My gas pack air handler doesn't come on unless it gets real cold. It saves wear and tear on that so, I figure all in all it's a good deal. When it gets extremely cold this heater wont keep up but, neither will the oil filled. It was 5 degrees earlier in the week with a two day high of 23. The air handler came on a lot. My iheater is several years old now. It's still working. It's hard to say exactly. I keep this one on all winter downstairs and I keep an oil filled heater on all winter upstairs. My electric bill is about $100.00 a month more for both running pretty much all the time. But, my gas bill is way lower than it would normally be so, it balances out. My gas pack air handler doesn't come on unless it gets real cold. It saves wear and tear on that so, I figure all in all it's a good deal. When it gets extremely cold this heater wont keep up but, neither will the oil filled. It was 5 degrees earlier in the week with a two day high of 23. The air handler... » Read More It's hard to say exactly. I keep this one on all winter downstairs and I keep an oil filled heater on all winter upstairs. My electric bill is about $100.00 a month more for both running pretty much all the time. But, my gas bill is way lower than it would normally be so, it balances out. My gas pack air handler doesn't come on unless it gets real cold. It saves wear and tear on that so, I figure all in all it's a good deal. When it gets extremely cold this heater wont keep up but, neither will the oil filled. It was 5 degrees earlier in the week with a two day high of 23. The air handler came on a lot. My iheater is several years old now. It's still working. « Show Less
2192693
It depends on the cost of electricity per kilowatt-hour (kw-hr) from your power company. A kw-hr is 1000 watts of electrical load for 1 hour. So, for each hour of operation, that heater uses 1.5 kw-hrs. Multiply that by the cost of the electricity per kw-hr and you'll know how much that heater costs to run each hour. Then multiply that by the number of hours it's operating in a month and you'll know the impact on your monthly bill. For example, if electricity costs 10 cents per kw-hr, the heater costs 15 cents an hour to operate. That's $3.60 per 24 hour day, $25.20 per 7 day week, and $108 for a 30-day month. It depends on the cost of electricity per kilowatt-hour (kw-hr) from your power company. A kw-hr is 1000 watts of electrical load for 1 hour. So, for each hour of operation, that heater uses 1.5 kw-hrs. Multiply that by the cost of the electricity per kw-hr and you'll know how much that heater costs to run each hour. Then multiply that by the number of hours it's operating in a month and you'll know the impact on your monthly bill. For example, if electricity costs 10 cents per kw-hr, the heater costs 15 cents an hour to operate. That's $3.60 per 24 hour day, $25.20 per 7 day... » Read More It depends on the cost of electricity per kilowatt-hour (kw-hr) from your power company. A kw-hr is 1000 watts of electrical load for 1 hour. So, for each hour of operation, that heater uses 1.5 kw-hrs. Multiply that by the cost of the electricity per kw-hr and you'll know how much that heater costs to run each hour. Then multiply that by the number of hours it's operating in a month and you'll know the impact on your monthly bill. For example, if electricity costs 10 cents per kw-hr, the heater costs 15 cents an hour to operate. That's $3.60 per 24 hour day, $25.20 per 7 day week, and $108 for a 30-day month. « Show Less
1680259
well your pushing it but thats if they are doing 100% out . most of the time it about 75 - 80 % that about - 9 to 10 watts lost = 22 to 23.out put so it should. but it will be close and pushing it on great days at when they put out 120% . some thing to think about.
2260794
1500 watts = 1.5kw hours for each hour it runs full blast. For each hour it runs, multiply your electric bill kwh rate (usually about 10 cents) by 1.5. So if it runs 10 hours a day full blast, that's 10 hours x 1.5 kwh x .10 cost = $1.50 per day.
149509
I used my Kill-A-Watt to measure mine and after 2275 hours on it broke down to 26 cents a day/ $7.99 a month to keep my 14' by 12' office at 70 degrees. Very efficient. It pulls 11amps/1262watts when running at full blast. I've had mine for at least 4 years and it still works wonderfully.
75137
The high setting on the heater is 1,500 watts which is equal to [1.5 kilowatts] - (kilo = 1000).Your electric company rate charge is based on "kilowatt hours usage" - the number of kilowatts of electric you use in one hour. What do you pay per kilowatt hour (usually around 9 - 12 cents per kilowatt hour is typical) - it should be listed on your bill? Multiply that "per Kilowatt hour rate charge" times 1.5 kilowatts (heater on high). Example: 1.5 X .10 = 15 cents "per hour."
1283913
My fisrt answer was wrong. 0.01 kWHrs woulf be 10 WHrs not watts. The instruments resolution for power seems to be 1watt. Currently reading my refrigerator, the meter reads: 118.5 V, 0.84 A, 95 Watt, 97 V-A, 59.9 Hz, 0.97 pf, 6.10 kWHr, 79.15 hours. Some of the numbers seem a little off, exammple - 118.5Vx0.84A = 99.5 VA not 97 but that is only off by about 2%. Not too bad for a $20 instrument.
692971
I don't remember, but I'm sure it's listed at the bottom of the page with all of the other statistical information or at least that's where it was when I ordered my two units in 2012. Both of mine are still working fine and are used daily.
2255980
My Kill A Watt recorded this as 0.009 kWh per day. It was in 'Timer' mode, the knobs were all in the 'on' position, and I didn't have something plugged in while I was checking.
289392
@MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really is. @MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really... » Read More @MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really is. « Show Less
255718
No it's not. It still works but gets hot and only last a few months. It would be better if you get a converter.
251093
It doesn't. I don't know how they got the figure. I guess they assume you run it less then 2 hours a day. I pay $0.11 a kWh so according to my math (and this is quick math) its roughly 1.2 cent a hour to run.