Question for owners - should this be installed on the supply side (outgoing) or return side? Should the unit be put into middle of duct or in AC?
1982260
Bio-Shield Air Sanitizer Fixtures can be used to bathe surf aces, the air or both with UV-C energy. The most common area for installation is in the return duct (BELOW) and mixed air plenum s or any combination of locations. For a more Advanced Installat ion: if it is known exactly where the coils, refrigerant line, fan, drain pan and ot her component are located, and the installation hole can be drilled without affecting any of these or other components, the Bio-Shield Air Sanitizer c an be installed near any of those components. Joneca Corporation is not responsible for any damage to HVAC if installation is installed in Advanced Installation areas.
921242
I don't think it will make any difference as long as it is installed on the return duct , in my case , I installed the humidistat about 5 feet from the main unit which is the aprilaire 700 and it's been working like a charm for me specially when I used that outdoor sensor that came with the unit . I hope I was helpfull
1458089
I installed with downward flow / boost, as my dryer vent PVC is under slab. The pressure sensor is vertical as in instructions. The unit works perfectly, so far... I have noted that the clear tube leading to pressure sensor gets condensation build up and could potentially lead to water getting in the sensor. I plan to reposition so the sensor is vertical but the tubing is an uphill run to the sensor. To get the recommended 5 feet from the dryer outlet, I ran flex duct to a through the wall PVC "splice" and then all PVC on the garage side of the wall wear the booster is connected. It is in non heat / cool garage space, so it is dry but "outside" the house. I installed with downward flow / boost, as my dryer vent PVC is under slab. The pressure sensor is vertical as in instructions. The unit works perfectly, so far... I have noted that the clear tube leading to pressure sensor gets condensation build up and could potentially lead to water getting in the sensor. I plan to reposition so the sensor is vertical but the tubing is an uphill run to the sensor. To get the recommended 5 feet from the dryer outlet, I ran flex duct to a through the wall PVC "splice" and then all PVC on the garage side of the wall wear the booster is connected.... » Read More I installed with downward flow / boost, as my dryer vent PVC is under slab. The pressure sensor is vertical as in instructions. The unit works perfectly, so far... I have noted that the clear tube leading to pressure sensor gets condensation build up and could potentially lead to water getting in the sensor. I plan to reposition so the sensor is vertical but the tubing is an uphill run to the sensor. To get the recommended 5 feet from the dryer outlet, I ran flex duct to a through the wall PVC "splice" and then all PVC on the garage side of the wall wear the booster is connected. It is in non heat / cool garage space, so it is dry but "outside" the house. « Show Less
668179
I installed it at the furthest point from the water heater. Hot water will only go as far as where it is installed and that way all the outlets are somewhat covered with just one unit. My wife is always telling me " Go hit the button ".
442630
It's a perfect fit to slide inside 4" metal ducting. Tape it up and plug it in and you're set! Air flow. Good question!
786261
Yes, AND to pull fresh air return. The rear of the cooling unit has 2 airflows, exhaust and return. The duct fan will assist with both airflows.
2180757
Depends on which way you place it. You can have it push or pull air. I have two in my case now, one as an intake and one as an exhaust. The side with the Corsair label is where the air is pulled from, opposite side is where it's pushed out.
181761
In general, you need to have a few inches of clearance on the sides for air circulation. Obviously you will need an open area for dry air to suck in and humidified air to blow out. Usually, best place is where the humidified air can most easily circulate throughout your house. I have force hot air central heating, so I place mine near one of the hallway air return duct, so that the humidified air can get sucked into the central heating system to be distributed through the house. Owner's manual does say to avoid heat exhaust ducts and doors and windows. You will need to experiment to see what works best in your situation.
643297
It's never a good idea to keep any cooling system (a/c, refrigerator, etc...) on its side for too long. If you need to place a cooling system on its side for transportation etc... Then make sure that you place it back upright for a minimum of 24 hours before you plug it in for use. If you don't then more than likely you'll damage the unit.
610268
It should be installed somewhere inbetween the exaust fan and the thing you see outside. I bought thiss to stop cold air from coming into the dryer. Works better than the vents that are normaly outside which you would keep. If you really want to stop the air completely (which I did) then you'll have to doctor this up a little bit. A Flood Light doesn't even penitrate mine after. It works great now
435621
It's on the back of air conditioner at the bottom in the middle. Just turn it a little. But if you are using the A/C you don't need to drain it at all.
1480874
I believe it can go either way. All this thing does, is take water and trickle it across a panel. I installed mine on above the furnace, basically. The air is hot that goes by the panel, picking up water and taking it up the ducts to the house. You put the vent valve on Winter setting. I installed a duct over to the return side of the house-duct system. What this does is provide a tiny bit of a breeze to blow the water vapor out into the heated duct side. You close this in the summer. Hope my disjointed answer helps.
344856
I would try to. I installed my unit in a 500sqft rectangular room. Place the unit on a solid exterior wall with easy access for electrical and drainage. Mount the exterior condensor above ground with the supplied wall mount. It looks clean and will be out of the way. I did have two leaking valves that cost me to have the unit recharged after 2 months of operation. Either than that the unit is good for the price.
601422
I'd measure the old opening and compare to that to the one in the new installation instructions to see what needs to be done. I seem to remember that I had to make my original opening smaller for the new unit. I just pop-riveted a strip of duct work to the old opening.
556618
You're trying to get the volume of air coming out, so it's best to measure the duct. The installed grill will reduce flow so if you want to know exactly what's happening, measure the inside of the grill opening edge to edge, not from the outside lip. Some grills that are adjustable restrict the flow quite a bit, so depending on what you are trying to figure out, take that into account too.
2208023
Yes, the typical installation requires a single hole in the ductwork distribution box (or air handler) downstream from the evaporator coil. In this position, the ionized air will flow through all ducts. Be aware that whatever duct is closest to the RGF unit will receive the most effects. Since the unit is designed to be on all the time, expect a slight ozone smell from the ducts each time the air handler fan cycles on (assuming you have your FAN set to AUTO rather than ON). The smell is VERY slight, and dissipates immediately. There is NO lingering ozone smell whatsoever during operation.
2184720
I enstalled an outlet out side so that the therostat is actually located out side. When system is running it is only warm at best, I used it for a High Energy Furnace water drain that was freezing up and backing up inside the furnace. Only run it when temp gets in the 30's and lower. I would think that having the thermostat inside would nulify the device.....