I don't see threads on the ball valve. Will I be able to fit hoses to drain brew? If not, what would I have to do?
1980930
The ball valve takes a 1/2 inch connector. I threaded in a half inch female quick disconnect and have a male disconnect in the tubing.
1980931
It has threads. I chose to buy a 1/2" barb fitting that screwed into the ball valve. I drain all my brews through 1/2" or 3/8" silicone tubing. The bulkhead is also threaded on the inside of the kettle and is easily adaptable for a bazooka screen or false bottom. Hope that helps.
1980932
There definitely were threads on my ball valve. I simply purchased a street ell and drained it that way. Someone knowledgeable with plumbing fittings can configure it anyway you want. Bring ball valve to Home Depot and they can help you out.
1980933
I had to buy a 1/2 inch male hose barb at lowes ($4-$5) and some hosing. But yeah you could do it. It's threaded and works great. Don't forget to put the rubber washers on both sides and tighten it as much as you can. Test for leaks first. And make sure you use better plumbers Teflon tape than what they send you. Had a tiny leak at first. But better Teflon fixed it right away. Love this pot.
1980934
I believe the ball valve is threaded. But I would assume if you wanted to use hoses you would need an adapter with a "spigot" tip to get hoses put on.
70550
Call Bunn and order a soft water spout. This will fix your problem. It will add 20 seconds to the brewing cycle but no more overflows.
783396
This is a very important issue. Yes, it's a 3/4" pipe thread at the inlet, but inside, the outlet opening is restricted down to about 9/32". So, you lose about 2/3 of your flow. I was redoing my long drip irrigation lines where I needed to maximize the flow. I returned mine and bought a bunch (14) at a big box store (blue/gray colors), which had much less restriction. In my opinion, it's more a volume issue and not so much a pressure issue, as the higher restriction increases the pressure, but lowers the volume. Now I get the flow I need. These are, however, nice little, well-made valves and I'd use them on an application where I didn't need that much volume. This is a very important issue. Yes, it's a 3/4" pipe thread at the inlet, but inside, the outlet opening is restricted down to about 9/32". So, you lose about 2/3 of your flow. I was redoing my long drip irrigation lines where I needed to maximize the flow. I returned mine and bought a bunch (14) at a big box store (blue/gray colors), which had much less restriction. In my opinion, it's more a volume issue and not so much a pressure issue, as the higher restriction increases the pressure, but lowers the volume. Now I get the flow I need. These are, however, nice little, well-made... » Read More This is a very important issue. Yes, it's a 3/4" pipe thread at the inlet, but inside, the outlet opening is restricted down to about 9/32". So, you lose about 2/3 of your flow. I was redoing my long drip irrigation lines where I needed to maximize the flow. I returned mine and bought a bunch (14) at a big box store (blue/gray colors), which had much less restriction. In my opinion, it's more a volume issue and not so much a pressure issue, as the higher restriction increases the pressure, but lowers the volume. Now I get the flow I need. These are, however, nice little, well-made valves and I'd use them on an application where I didn't need that much volume. « Show Less
1518841
You have to use the Teflon thread seal tape where the pipe nipple screws into the ball valve. Use enough such that the last few turns are difficult. If the valve turns easily all the way to the hex nut, it will leak. You should also make sure about half the pipe is inside the kettle and half is outside to make sure you have enough thread available. If you ran out of the tiny amount of thread seal tape that came with the kettle, you can buy a whole roll of it at Home Depot for about $2. Lastly, I only used the silicone ring between the inside hex nut and the inside of the kettle wall, not on the outside. You have to use the Teflon thread seal tape where the pipe nipple screws into the ball valve. Use enough such that the last few turns are difficult. If the valve turns easily all the way to the hex nut, it will leak. You should also make sure about half the pipe is inside the kettle and half is outside to make sure you have enough thread available. If you ran out of the tiny amount of thread seal tape that came with the kettle, you can buy a whole roll of it at Home Depot for about $2. Lastly, I only used the silicone ring between the inside hex nut and the inside of the kettle wall, not on... » Read More You have to use the Teflon thread seal tape where the pipe nipple screws into the ball valve. Use enough such that the last few turns are difficult. If the valve turns easily all the way to the hex nut, it will leak. You should also make sure about half the pipe is inside the kettle and half is outside to make sure you have enough thread available. If you ran out of the tiny amount of thread seal tape that came with the kettle, you can buy a whole roll of it at Home Depot for about $2. Lastly, I only used the silicone ring between the inside hex nut and the inside of the kettle wall, not on the outside. « Show Less
442799
the hose is in-line threaded. for tight areas - motorcycle wheel - I needed the 90, same thread as the valve stem. works fine for me.
26169
I don't think the threaded hose attachmentWill fit your model if it does u should beAble to use it!
675185
Not me. Mine pours just fine. Make sure there is gasket on the removeable top above the threads.
1135820
You need a valve but not a needle valve. I use mine for brewing as well and just used a Home Depot ball valve on the end of a section of black pipe running from the burner to the valve. Love the burner although it does blacken the brew kettle.
2146695
There is a threaded hole. I use a Skil buffer so not sure of the size match up
1040985
Yes.Found this at the top of the list when I googled it. You might want to try that nifty google thing first.http://www.chuggerpumps.com/home-brewing-pumps-chugger/chugger-pump-products/item/chugger-ss-inline/
1867688
Obtain a short piece (1" long or so) of 1/4" diameter copper tubing reamed out to exactly fit over the TC shaft. Then clamp the Cu tubing in a standard brass compression fitting (with the TC installed, when the ferule collapses it will also tighten the Cu around the TC) which will usually have 1/4" NPT threads. Then use either a reducing bushing or bell reducer to adapt this assembly to the 1/2" NPT of the brew plumbing. I've done this 4 times with no problems.
290777
Jason, I will have to go out in the daylight and get a measurement or imprint off of the tube. I am using the Midwest Brewing basic CO2 set up for it. The gas line is 3/8tha and the beer line is 5/16ths but I cannot remember the length you need to keep the brew from foaming to death.Wheelchair Bob
259523
Solid maybe? The outflow hose is smaller in diameter than a garden hose and it doesn't have a threaded fitting like a garden hose. That said, I think you could probably find something at your hardware store to rig up greater hose length if you need it. Maybe the same size hose and a double-sided coupler to connect the two? Maybe a slightly bigger diameter hose that you can fit over the one on the pump and then clamp? Good luck.
2177644
There is a small nut from the new device that is suppose to fit into position once you have removed the on-off handle from your existing spigot/faucet. Thats gotten fit or your hosed (pun intended). The best thing to do is check the manufacturere's website as they have a very helpful video that will detail the installation. Good luck.
1143744
I elevated mine. Is it necessary? Prob not. I put an extra spigot below the original one because the original one is quite hi. It leaves a lot of unused water in barrel.
140601
Like everyone else is saying you need a longer threaded nipple. I also added a couple of stainless steel washers to give me room to open and close the valve. I also have a Home Depot 10 gallon cooler.
1863088
There are overflow outlets at the top of the barrel that will drain the excess. These are probably closed over when you get them so you can just punch or drill a drain hole the size that you want