I am getting an uneven base on my slots using a Craftsman 10 inch contractors saw.How do I correct this problem.Tahnks
1991496
I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced... » Read More I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. « Show Less
476852
This is mysterious. Raise the blade up as high as it will go and check with a square that you trust to see if the blade is truly perpendicular to the table. Make sure that the throat plate is not throwing off this check for square. If the blade is square to the table top, then you might try a run-out gauge on the saw's arbor. Excessive run-out is less likely in my opinion and probably wouldn't cause the uneven bases in any event. Finally, make sure you have a backer board behind your work piece.
1991497
I suspect that the Craftsman blade is an ATB (Alternating Top Bevel). I would recommend an FTG (Flat Top Grind) blade when doing box joints.
1991498
When you say "uneven base", I'm assuming that you're talking about the bottom of each slot not being flat.....as opposed to the "depth of cut" causing the bottom of each slot to not be perfectly level with the slot on either side of it. If it's the second scenario, maybe there is a problem with the saw blade guard not being level with the saw table, or stock is somehow moving, causing the "depth of cut" to vary. Arbor run out should not cause the problem, but make sure that the blades fit snugly on the arbor (arbor might be worn and under original diameter) and the arbor nut is secure. When you say "uneven base", I'm assuming that you're talking about the bottom of each slot not being flat.....as opposed to the "depth of cut" causing the bottom of each slot to not be perfectly level with the slot on either side of it. If it's the second scenario, maybe there is a problem with the saw blade guard not being level with the saw table, or stock is somehow moving, causing the "depth of cut" to vary. Arbor run out should not cause the problem, but make sure that the blades fit snugly on the arbor (arbor might be worn and under original diameter) and... » Read More When you say "uneven base", I'm assuming that you're talking about the bottom of each slot not being flat.....as opposed to the "depth of cut" causing the bottom of each slot to not be perfectly level with the slot on either side of it. If it's the second scenario, maybe there is a problem with the saw blade guard not being level with the saw table, or stock is somehow moving, causing the "depth of cut" to vary. Arbor run out should not cause the problem, but make sure that the blades fit snugly on the arbor (arbor might be worn and under original diameter) and the arbor nut is secure. « Show Less
1680178
That is not the particular model I have. Having said that, The bases, at least that which I have, are welded construction. Therefore shortening would create considerable hassle. But I believe they have a mobile base, 50-2000 for a 36" saw
325609
I did not have that problem...However I suggest you take the screws and the top section of the base to a local hardware store such as "Coast to Coast" or "Ace Truvalue" and show them the problem. These folks will try several screws until they find the correct fit. This is your least expensive option!
2184787
I mounted mine on a Craftsman saw and had to drill. I drilled the mount not the saw. Chances are you may have to drill.
1203484
I am presently using this on a Craftsman 10" saw but not all of the craftsman 10" saws will support it. The saw's documentation will specify the blade diameter supported by the saw for a dado set, and the dado set width supported by the arbor. It is important to follow these guidelines as the retention nut on the arbor must thread on far enough to secure the blade -- if it does not, it could result in injury. Additionally, the throat included with the saw likely will not accommodate a dado blade. You will need to order a new throat for dado use. I ended up making my own throat as I could not find one commercially available for my saw. I am presently using this on a Craftsman 10" saw but not all of the craftsman 10" saws will support it. The saw's documentation will specify the blade diameter supported by the saw for a dado set, and the dado set width supported by the arbor. It is important to follow these guidelines as the retention nut on the arbor must thread on far enough to secure the blade -- if it does not, it could result in injury. Additionally, the throat included with the saw likely will not accommodate a dado blade. You will need to order a new throat for dado use. I ended up making my own throat as... » Read More I am presently using this on a Craftsman 10" saw but not all of the craftsman 10" saws will support it. The saw's documentation will specify the blade diameter supported by the saw for a dado set, and the dado set width supported by the arbor. It is important to follow these guidelines as the retention nut on the arbor must thread on far enough to secure the blade -- if it does not, it could result in injury. Additionally, the throat included with the saw likely will not accommodate a dado blade. You will need to order a new throat for dado use. I ended up making my own throat as I could not find one commercially available for my saw. « Show Less
983134
I have had this unit for 2 years. No problems with poor machining. Table saws are not made equal, nor are the table tops ever perfectly flat. The slight wobble with this unit is not detrimental enough that it caused square issues. You might want to call Grizzly and inquire about this problem; get an answer from the "horses mouth" so to speak. Hapy jigging!
493471
Craftsman has a dado insert for your saw. I can not speak if other brands will interchange. You will like this product.
1735249
I would suspect something with the saw. Mine works great with the table saw.
1320832
You need to check the arbor size and buy the same arbor size as the blades you buy. Mine required filing as the machining in the arbor hol was not clean and there was a ridge that I had to file down. After that it works as advertized and I use it on a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw.
666529
I wouldnt be to concerened with adjusting the blade to the miter slot, not important. Adjust your fence to the blade, because that is what you guild off of not the slot. 1/64 off is not bad for a contractor grade saw that is portable.
381318
Check the finish on the sheeve for any burrs. File them off and then emory cloth it smooth. Otherwise it has been great. Hope this helps. Good luck.
822243
Yes...I don't have a problem with mine. Maybe jiggle it a little to make sure it goes in...there are grooves on the base so they have to fit in their specific slots.
986323
I purchased this base for an older unisaw with the cast iron"skirt" around it. It would not fit so I had to cut is apart and enlarge it to fit my saw. I have been using it for a couple of years and I really think it is poor quality. I would never buy another one of these or any other mobile base from Delta. I am planning on building a new base for my Unisaw from heavier gauge steel. I have noticed that there has been flexing going on to the base when it is moved which has given me issues with my table extension. Poor quality - go to your local metal fabricator and have them build you something that will be stable and last as long as your saw. I purchased this base for an older unisaw with the cast iron"skirt" around it. It would not fit so I had to cut is apart and enlarge it to fit my saw. I have been using it for a couple of years and I really think it is poor quality. I would never buy another one of these or any other mobile base from Delta. I am planning on building a new base for my Unisaw from heavier gauge steel. I have noticed that there has been flexing going on to the base when it is moved which has given me issues with my table extension. Poor quality - go to your local metal fabricator and have them build... » Read More I purchased this base for an older unisaw with the cast iron"skirt" around it. It would not fit so I had to cut is apart and enlarge it to fit my saw. I have been using it for a couple of years and I really think it is poor quality. I would never buy another one of these or any other mobile base from Delta. I am planning on building a new base for my Unisaw from heavier gauge steel. I have noticed that there has been flexing going on to the base when it is moved which has given me issues with my table extension. Poor quality - go to your local metal fabricator and have them build you something that will be stable and last as long as your saw. « Show Less
1543466
There are several screws on the edges that snug the insert in the saw. You should only need to adjust them once - they stay put. After the initial cut, I never had to adjust my insert again. Just follow the instructions included with the insert.
1434797
The door jig worker really well for me, so you must be having an issue that I did not encounter. The holes on my jig are spaced at 1/4" intervals (assuming we're referring to the same holes).
2063351
Either problem with set up or with the saw. I have never had a problem. Sorry, not much help.
1846474
I have mine on the right side and it works just fine. I think they show it as they do because most saws already have an extension table on the right side.