I need to seal the brick inside in my see-through fireplace. It's 120 year old brink and did some crumbling during cleaning. This fireplace will also house ventless gas logs. I just want to be 100% sure this NON FLAMMABLE because the fireplace will be used quite often. I need to seal the brick inside in my see-through fireplace. It's 120 year old brink and did some crumbling during cleaning. This fireplace will also house ventless gas logs. I just want to... » Read More I need to seal the brick inside in my see-through fireplace. It's 120 year old brink and did some crumbling during cleaning. This fireplace will also house ventless gas logs. I just want to be 100% sure this NON FLAMMABLE because the fireplace will be used quite often. « Show Less
864707
I used this sealer to seal a brick wall which I exposed for a new kitchen. I can attest to the ability of this sealer to prevent brick dust, but I don't know about its NON FLAMMABLE qualities. This sealer is invisible, so, if you want the brick to appear as it does before sealing, this one is for you.
1978184
It's water based and the documentation say it's non flammable. My application was strictly to seal the masonry around a bay window, though, due to moisture seepage and it worked very well for that using multiple coatings with a garden sprayer.
774499
We have only used ours in an outdoor firepit, but I don't see why you couldn't use in in your open fireplace. Its doesn't create smoke or an odor.
31168
Hi. we have a double sided glass fireplace and that is what it was used for. It was pretty dirty, we are third owners of the house and it probably wasn't cleaned ever before. It took two cleanings, but it is now spotless. We had tried numerous other methods, including razor blade scraping which didn't do it, but this did and it was easy and worked great.
1632752
forever. buy some extra glass, though, you will want it. Fireplace Fire Pit Glass, Chunky ~1/2" Clear with slight aqua tint, 10 LBS
854593
From what I understand it is for a short period of time..but there is no insulation on the inside to speak of...to get the fire safe version you need to shell out a few hundred more..
1484455
It's an open flame, it produces carbon monoxide, and it smokes a bit. I happen to have a fireplace in my house so I could use it there, if I opened the flue. But I wouldn't generally recommend using it indoors.
2216411
Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the big logs could still crack. Hope that helps! Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the... » Read More Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the big logs could still crack. Hope that helps! « Show Less
944331
Its not really necessary. If you put brick in the bottom the bottom might get to hot. I don't know what its made out of but it might not last took long at the high heat.
77731
I am pretty sure it is made out of Cordierite which is the same material as Kiln bricks are made of, should easily handle more than 700 degrees.The only smells you may get are if you get grease on it like Pepperoni drippings or cheese oil, when those burn off you of course will get some fumes from that but there isn't a stone made that wont do that except maybe the glazed ones, but to me the glazed ones defeat the whole purpose of using a stone in the first place which is to absorb the steam coming out of the dough may as well just use cast iron if the stone is glazed.
1232651
I don't see how you could because there is nothing to burn. The glass doesn't burn. It just reflects the flames from the gas. If you had a gas pipe installed in the fireplace, you could put fireglass in there
1592434
No... It is intended for use with gas fireplaces. It is a decorative element not a fuel source. Some gas fireplaces use it to cover the burners and the flames come up through the glass and others (like myself) put it around the bottom of the gas logs for a visual shimmer effect.
1648076
We built a frame under our mantle and set bricks around it to look real, but you have to have a vent coming out in case the heat gets turned on. If there is no vent it will cause a fire
1698149
According to many of the reviews and the instructions, there is quite a bit of moisture in the fire proof material built into the walls of the safe. You need a desiccant pack to absorb the moisture.I just bought this safe and a desiccant pack today so I don't know how well it will work, but this is what I bought.Hydrosorbent OSG-40 Silica Gel Dehumidifier Desiccant 40 Gram Orange NO Cobalt (II) ChlorideMy safe came with a small desiccant pack. But I would not rely on it because it's small, and there is no indication of when it is saturated and needs reactivated. According to many of the reviews and the instructions, there is quite a bit of moisture in the fire proof material built into the walls of the safe. You need a desiccant pack to absorb the moisture.I just bought this safe and a desiccant pack today so I don't know how well it will work, but this is what I bought.Hydrosorbent OSG-40 Silica Gel Dehumidifier Desiccant 40 Gram Orange NO Cobalt (II) ChlorideMy safe came with a small desiccant pack. But I would not rely on it because it's small, and... » Read More According to many of the reviews and the instructions, there is quite a bit of moisture in the fire proof material built into the walls of the safe. You need a desiccant pack to absorb the moisture.I just bought this safe and a desiccant pack today so I don't know how well it will work, but this is what I bought.Hydrosorbent OSG-40 Silica Gel Dehumidifier Desiccant 40 Gram Orange NO Cobalt (II) ChlorideMy safe came with a small desiccant pack. But I would not rely on it because it's small, and there is no indication of when it is saturated and needs reactivated. « Show Less
1637647
Sorry, I havent completed fireplace for my install box is still sealed. I think website had good information when I bought it.
2173061
I don't seal it all off. That would prevent oxygen from getting to the fire or coals. No fire or coals, no cooking or smoking.
385303
I didn't actually time the burn but it is shorter than firewood but longer than I had anticipated. I mix woodchips/saw dust with shredded paper to about a 50/50 mix and I haven't noticed any extra or unwanted smoke. I want to try and make enough bricks this spring and summer to get me through next winter. If you don't mind a little work then it's worth it, FYI I fill up a 50 gallon trashcan with my mix and it usually makes about 32 bricks.
64690
Like any fireplace or stove one needs to light smaller kindling with paper or something and work your way up to the larger 18" split firewood. Leave the door open to allow plenty of oxygen to help this process. Once the larger wood catches close the door. In particular with this unit the damper located in the center below the door. Pull it out (it takes jiggling) completely allowing maximum air in while the wood catches fire. Close it some as the fire catches, slowing the burn and making the heating more efficient. When it is at its most efficient you want to close it (push it all the way in) completely making the firebox heat the most and allowing the wood to last longest. The flames continue but look to be in slightly slow motion. Put in another piece of wood from time to time as needed. One of the toughest things you will encounter is having smoke come into your house rather than exiting the chimney. This happens when the chimney is cold, the smoke cannot go up until it warms. Closing the door slows it but it starts coming through all seams. You need to struggle through this by getting the fire as hot as possible and the smoke will turn to a point where it starts creating a vacuum and sucks smoke back out of your room. I do this best with a lot of cardboard which burns hot and fast. There are shortcuts to get by the paper and kindling. There are fake logs soaked in lighter fluid available to start it. I bought a cast iron tray that you place in the stove, pour kerosene in and light it just below the firewood.