I am treyin to decide on witch mora to buy for my first mora . Witch would you think would be a better knife for survial or bushcraft ? I also am going to be learning how to sharpen on this knife . Is there any difference in how easy these three knives are to sharpen or put an edge on ? Also is there any difference you have noticed in how well these knives hold an edge and how they performe carveing or wood working . The three knives I mean are the robust , the comapoin , and the compaion heavy duty .Thank You! I am treyin to decide on witch mora to buy for my first mora . Witch would you think would be a better knife for survial or bushcraft ? I also am going to be learning how to sharpen on this knife .... » Read More I am treyin to decide on witch mora to buy for my first mora . Witch would you think would be a better knife for survial or bushcraft ? I also am going to be learning how to sharpen on this knife . Is there any difference in how easy these three knives are to sharpen or put an edge on ? Also is there any difference you have noticed in how well these knives hold an edge and how they performe carveing or wood working . The three knives I mean are the robust , the comapoin , and the compaion heavy duty .Thank You! « Show Less
1990501
I purchased the Robust. Primarily because it was made out of Carbon Steel and I could use it to strike a firesteel. As for sharpening, if you are careful to hold the angle for the Skandia grind, you will find it a very easy knife to sharpen. I find one of the most important steps in sharpening is honing after you have used your stones, sandpaper, etc. Honing gets rid of the final burr and makes it very sharp, hope this helped. P.S. for the price, you really can purchase any mora knife and have a winner.
1990502
The robust has a much thicker blade than the other two, so if you want to use it for bushcraft/survival purposes this would be the bestbofbthe three. And because of the scandy gring mora knifes are easy to sharpen, but just as a recommendation for bushcraft and survival you might that a knife like this is to short for some tasks, that's why an almost perfect combination is a small act like the fiskars x15, long enough to de real work and short enough to be caryable.
1990503
I do have the knives you mentioned. If I have to choose one, I'll have the robust, but if I go out in the woods with fiskars x7 and a bahco folding saw ... any of this mora knives would do. Hope this helps.
1990504
the edges are all the same for sharpening. but different steels. the high q robust will rust on u if u dont oil it or keep it very dry and clean, but it holds an edge for the longest. the high q robust is the thickest so u can baton with it better than the others. bc they cost so little i would just get a stainless and the high q robust. never hurts to have two knives. check the prices on ebay before u buy here. info on sharpening is second hand. i havent had to sharpen one yet and bc i get these for 12$ a piece at the smokey mountain knife works in TN i would rather throw it in the back of the shop then bother to sharpen it. go here to learn to sharpen: http://ragweedforge.com/scanshrp.htmlgood luck the edges are all the same for sharpening. but different steels. the high q robust will rust on u if u dont oil it or keep it very dry and clean, but it holds an edge for the longest. the high q robust is the thickest so u can baton with it better than the others. bc they cost so little i would just get a stainless and the high q robust. never hurts to have two knives. check the prices on ebay before u buy here. info on sharpening is second hand. i havent had to sharpen one yet and bc i get these for 12$ a piece at the smokey mountain knife works in TN i would rather throw it in the back of... » Read More the edges are all the same for sharpening. but different steels. the high q robust will rust on u if u dont oil it or keep it very dry and clean, but it holds an edge for the longest. the high q robust is the thickest so u can baton with it better than the others. bc they cost so little i would just get a stainless and the high q robust. never hurts to have two knives. check the prices on ebay before u buy here. info on sharpening is second hand. i havent had to sharpen one yet and bc i get these for 12$ a piece at the smokey mountain knife works in TN i would rather throw it in the back of the shop then bother to sharpen it. go here to learn to sharpen: http://ragweedforge.com/scanshrp.htmlgood luck « Show Less
1990505
I have a robust and a couple companion and like them both. They are carbon steel and easily sharpened, thus they hold an edge well and are very sharp. The robust has a Thick blade and can with stand much work. I have batoned wood with it and it has stood up well to the striking. The companion knife is a thinner blade but is excellent for carving wood and general bushcraft task. I wouldn't baton with it though. The robust has worked for me for striking sparks on a magnesium stick or fire steel. The back of the blade is to smooth. Both knives are excellent. The handles fit fine in most hands. Since they are inexpensive I would recommend buying one of each. I have a robust and a couple companion and like them both. They are carbon steel and easily sharpened, thus they hold an edge well and are very sharp. The robust has a Thick blade and can with stand much work. I have batoned wood with it and it has stood up well to the striking. The companion knife is a thinner blade but is excellent for carving wood and general bushcraft task. I wouldn't baton with it though. The robust has worked for me for striking sparks on a magnesium stick or fire steel. The back of the blade is to smooth. Both knives are excellent. The handles fit fine in most hands.... » Read More I have a robust and a couple companion and like them both. They are carbon steel and easily sharpened, thus they hold an edge well and are very sharp. The robust has a Thick blade and can with stand much work. I have batoned wood with it and it has stood up well to the striking. The companion knife is a thinner blade but is excellent for carving wood and general bushcraft task. I wouldn't baton with it though. The robust has worked for me for striking sparks on a magnesium stick or fire steel. The back of the blade is to smooth. Both knives are excellent. The handles fit fine in most hands. Since they are inexpensive I would recommend buying one of each. « Show Less
1990506
I use this knife mostly for dressing big game and highly recommend it. Heavy blade, good steel and the handle is oversized making it easy to grip when the slick stuff starts. Minor stone work keeps it shaving and Im sure a steel would also. Wipe it off and put it back in a dry sheath or you will get a rust. I use my knives to dress 4 to 10 deer or hogs a year and the Robust is one that will be in the work. I don't baton a knife but this blade would hold up to it better than the rest you mention.
1990507
The Robust and the Companion Heavy Duty are basically the same knife with a different color pattern. The Companion MG is also basically the same knife, but with a thinner spine. Any of them are fantastic as far as woodworking or bushcraft go, although I prefer the regular Mora Companion MG in carbon steel personally (I like the thinner blade because it seems to cut just a little bit easier). As far as sharpness goes, they will amaze you, and they are easy to sharpen, look up "Sharpening a scandi grind" on YouTube or Google.
2216827
i suggest using the angle guide since you are new to sharpening follow directions that came with stone they are helpfull for beginners it takes time to learn how to but u must keep the same angle all the way tru that why i suggest using angle guide the corse s for fourm rough edges but you shoul feel it getting shaprer on course then work down to me then fine this can take a long time if knife is dull but once u get a goodege on kinife it takes lot less time
74894
I've had Buck knives since 1976. They take more time to sharpen than some of the other knives I've had but hold an edge much longer. I used to to a lot of trapping and rawhide braiding so I used lots of different knives at first looking for ones that would hold an edge the longest. I've never found anything better than the Buck knives--but they do take the longest to sharpen. I still use a stone. Nothing else.
854771
It depends on what you are going to use the knife for. S1 is good if you want to chop up tree with the knife. But If you need to chop up things, a machete is a much better choice. I prefer F1. It is more practical. You get a lot more power to the stride when the lever is less then with a S1. There are also many other benefits of F1, but it takes a long time to explain. I also like zytel sheath. It can withstand more wear and moisture.
1869083
The BK16 is a smaller knife suited to most hunting, bushcraft, or camp chores. The BK10 is more of a survival type knife (think a thinner lighter version of the BK2). I have and have used all 3, I can't imagine anything I would do with a knife that the BK16 cannot handle. I gave away my BK10 and only keep my BK2 for it's macho value. If you want to chop big trees get an axe. If you want to split firewood get a belt pole axe. Having said that, in an emergency the BK16 will baton very well.
1297115
Thank you everyone for the responses. I saw a video that pointed out the difference between two knives. The leather wrapped handle is best for dry environments and the black handle is best for damp environments.
1521056
That's why I bought it... Hell ya!!! Love the bushcraft black... My go to bushcraft survival knife..!!
10797
The blade is slightly longer (than the BK) but the handle is a bit crowded, for larger hands. ... The flare, at the rear, tends to make my meaty mits feel a bit "bunched". ... Just fine if your hands are thinner (more narrow). ... There ARE better options and I think that the BK16 is one of them. ... If you can afford it, nothing beats the TOPS BoB Fieldcraft Knife. ... The Mora Bushcraft Black (with or without the enhanced sheath) is a great option. ... The Condor Bushlore and the Condor Basic-5 Inch are both very adequate. ... I carry the TOPS BoB Fieldcraft and the Mora Black as a reserve knife but, to be totally honest, I use my Spyderco Endura4 FFG or my Mora 840MG Companion for any tasks which they can handle. This saves my better blades for the things that ONLY they can handle.
1824860
Thanks for your informative reply! I had already bought one, & forgotten about posting this question. It does work well, & looks like the cleaning feature will be handy. And I've used it to "dress up" the edges on a couple of Fiskars axes, plus their bill-hook machete "brush axe", as well as a Gerber Camp Axe.Reason I asked in the first place? I had bought a different sharpener from another source that advertised "wheels", but only had two crossed ceramic "rodlets". It occurred to me that maybe even Fiskars might make this error. Happily, there was no problem- Fiskars told the truth! And considering what things cost these days, it's well worth the money. Thanks for your informative reply! I had already bought one, & forgotten about posting this question. It does work well, & looks like the cleaning feature will be handy. And I've used it to "dress up" the edges on a couple of Fiskars axes, plus their bill-hook machete "brush axe", as well as a Gerber Camp Axe.Reason I asked in the first place? I had bought a different sharpener from another source that advertised "wheels", but only had two crossed ceramic "rodlets". It occurred to me that maybe even Fiskars might make this error. Happily,... » Read More Thanks for your informative reply! I had already bought one, & forgotten about posting this question. It does work well, & looks like the cleaning feature will be handy. And I've used it to "dress up" the edges on a couple of Fiskars axes, plus their bill-hook machete "brush axe", as well as a Gerber Camp Axe.Reason I asked in the first place? I had bought a different sharpener from another source that advertised "wheels", but only had two crossed ceramic "rodlets". It occurred to me that maybe even Fiskars might make this error. Happily, there was no problem- Fiskars told the truth! And considering what things cost these days, it's well worth the money. « Show Less
1738215
As an overall survival knife I prefer the Buck Hoodlum. My first impression was how light it was for a big blade. Its more versatile and I like the sheath better. The BK9 is better for batoning and chopping in my opinion. I don't like the sheath and it doesn't have a finger choil so you can't choke up on it for more finer bushcraft work. Last time I checked the BK9 was about $20 or $30 cheaper.
116451
IMO, Buck knives are better than Ka-Bar but to each his own. You won't find a better all-around knife than the 119 Special and with the cocabola handle you get a knife that he will definitely treasure for a lifetime. I have two of the 119's with the black phenolic handle that I have had over 20-yrs and recently bought one with the cocabola handle as more of a display knife, than to use, because I like its looks. It is a beautiful knife. A slightly smaller version of the 119 (6" Blade) is the 105 PathFinder (5" Blade) which I use a lot when doing a little more delicate work such as deboning, etc. If you husband has small hands, he might prefer the 105 instead. Unfortunately, I've never seen the 105 with a cocabola handle, though Cabela's carries it in cherrywood and bone handles and LLBean has it in leather. However you will pay more at those places than Amazon. For a knife to use for gutting, skinning and cutting up the vension, you can't go wrong with the 119. Almost forgot to mention that Buck also makes a Model 121 which is in-between the 105 and the 119 in blade length (5.5"). This is a Boone&Crockett commemorative knife with the B&C emblem on the handle. I just recently bought one off Amazon but have not had a chance to use it yet. If he's big on Boone & Crockett, you might consider it, but for pure beauty, you can't beat the looks of the 119 with the cocabola handle.
2186179
I still LOVE all of my ceramic knives! I use them for different jobs. . . when doing 'small' work, I like the little one, the 5 is a good place to start, since it can be used for many applications. Biggest suggestion: BE CAREFUL!! I've cut myself when I haven't been paying attention. . . it only takes a touch. . . and you can have that little bitty cut.
2257536
The best way to describe the Morakniv Bushcraft, in fact most Moras, would likely be to call it a "2/3 tang" design. But don't let this deter you from considering this knife. It's built well. The Mora family of knives are some of the most popular and modestly priced bushcraft knives out there. They combine excellent metallurgy with modern manufacturing techniques to create a good knife that anyone can afford. If you want to chop a tree down with a blade, buy an axe. If you want a good affordable knife that can handle any task a REASONABLE person would use it for, a Mora is a great choice. I've been happy with mine, and I've used it quite a lot with no problems.
354875
Condor knife would be my next choice for the price. You can't go wrong with the mora BB. It gives you a sharpener & ferro rod
931294
This is said to be the thickest Mora knife, for me the larger handle fits me better. Typically for me it's useful, i'm not a survival or bush craft guy. I'm a knife guy who keeps Mora's in his vehicles. For survival, this is to short a blade, to light weight and not full tang. For bushcraft it may be to thick to feather with, not impossible with practice. For $20 this knife is perfect for a normal man's life. I have cut carpet, foods, ropes, plants and various things with all Mora's. I simply like this because it's beefier in both handle and blade.
53935
The Randall RAT 4 is an excellent choice. Similar in price, I think a little less. Currently there is an Ontario version, which is decent, but Randall is the original designer. I also really like the KaBar Becker line. The BK 16 is very close in comparison and cheaper. The Beckers are easier to sharpen, however they have to be cared for to prevent corrosion. And your absolute cheapest, is gonna be a Mora. They can be had for $20ish. Or more depending on quality and sheath options. They are a good cheap blade. But very susceptible to rust. If you have more questions I am happy to answer as best as I can. These arent armchair opinions either. I own or have friends who own, and we use them in the woods.
1019202
All are excellent, I recomend the carbon steel over the stainless version for all mora knives. And all perform equally as good in my opinion and all scandi grind knives are all relitivly easy to sharpen.