Is this easy enough to control to cut a 3" board a precise 45 degrees or should I stick with a miter back saw?
2057385
You can not do a precise cut with this type of tools unless you are a professional and has other tools beside this one to get the job done right
2057386
Is not easy, sorry, including a lineal cut is hard. The saw don't cut with precision.
2057387
I haven't had control isuue. But, I,m 6'2" 215# I found a speed square valuable for any cut for any hand tool.
1198858
It cuts right at twelve inches at 90 degrees. It will cut a 12" board at 45 degrees, but you have to flip the board over to finish the cut.
2085998
If you're looking for a 45 Degree edge on a large piece of wood, this bit will do that. There may be better solutions. This is very large bit. I am using it to cut perfect 45s in 3/4" stock.
1296503
Sure. Just set the devise on the table portion and zero it then sick (magneticly) on the blade to deiermine the angle to be cut. It works like a level so I can't say it works setting a miter angle.
637111
I always use it to true 1 end then set the stop for repeatability. Since I bought this, I only use my miter saw to ruff cut.
576560
It depends on your blade selection, your set up, and your skill level. I highly recommend you view a 35 minute you tube video entitle Bandsaw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass. It explains a lot of things and clears up a couple misconceptions about bandsaws. Then, do your research on blade selection (especially where blade width vs. curve radius is concerned). Finally, plan to take it slow. Don't force the cut. Let the blade establish your feed rate. With the right blade (probably a new 2-3 TPI) the saw has the power to do the job
272070
Yes. Chief jd's advice re being patient and letting the saw do the work is spot on. Set the speed fairly high. 5+ should do it. Don't be too aggressive with the orbit of the blade. If you are cutting across the grain be sure to score your cut line with a razor knife. This will help prevent splintering of the top layer of veneer.
159573
Works on any saw with a 3/4" miter slot. And it is "reversible" to work on either side of the blade.
1198859
I don't think so, maybe 12.5 in max, at 90 degrees you can lift board to get a little more, cut specs should be listed in saw description. You can spin board and cut from both sides, laser makes lining up cuts easier than other saws and accuracy us top notch.
1307296
The saw itself had no problem cutting 1" ID steel tubing with a wall thickness of 1/8". The cut was neat enough for what we wanted to do with it (re-sizing an air gun piston). When it comes to cutting flat metal, the saw has no problem for any reasonable thickness (less than 3/16) that I have attempted. That said, 1/16 or thinner tends to warp if you are just trying to rip a piece without bracing the sides of the cut. Now, I keep saying the "saw has no problem", because the commonly available Bosch blades don't last too long. HOWEVER, I wasn't going heavy enough with the oil (I assume), and I think the blades were overheating (warping and blackening).... So to sum up, the saw is not the problem, with the proper technique and blade the saw cuts metal of a thickness less than 3/16 quickly, and acceptably cleanly. May not apply to stainless steel though, no experience with stainless. -Edit- Remember to keep this saw spotless if you are cutting metal; it will crud up like crazy if you throw it aside with metal filings all over it. This is a quality tool.
356136
never tried to cut at a 45.....If I were to want a 45....I would use a electric saw instead.....barry
338093
I have used it for both, but I also have a good miter saw with calibrated pivot for a easy angle adjustment. I think you will find the angle adjustment a PITA for lots of wood work. I have no idea what would happen to the blade for long term wood cutting but it walks through metal fast so I suspect it would last a long time. Also note I don;t think it has a blade brake like wood miter saws, watch those fingers. It's is a excellent cutting machine.
1567637
Nope. The idea is to make the saw blade cut are your required angle relative to the work surface. Even if that surface is not level. So you first set the Angle Guage on the sufface and press Zero. Then place the Guage on the blade to adjust for the angle (true angle relative to the surface). I've found that the adjustment markings on my table saw and chop saw are not accurate enough to eliminate minor gaps in longer pieces like picture frame corners or door fronts. Very nice little device.
2141048
As far as cutting 1/2 in popular, this saw will cut it with an aggressive blade attached. But It all depends on what you are wanting to do with it. Are you making fine tight curved cuts? I would recommend this saw. Are you cutting to final dimensions? I would use a table saw. If your heart is set on either a 9" band saw or this scroll saw, and I was doing final dimension cutting, I would find a bandsaw with a fence and miter gauge for more precise cutting. But overall I would recommend a table saw over both for cutting wood to final dimension. Hope this helps.. Now if you are looking to adding any fancy corbels or tight cut decorative additions to your work. The scroll saw will be my choice all day long.. As far as cutting 1/2 in popular, this saw will cut it with an aggressive blade attached. But It all depends on what you are wanting to do with it. Are you making fine tight curved cuts? I would recommend this saw. Are you cutting to final dimensions? I would use a table saw. If your heart is set on either a 9" band saw or this scroll saw, and I was doing final dimension cutting, I would find a bandsaw with a fence and miter gauge for more precise cutting. But overall I would recommend a table saw over both for cutting wood to final dimension. Hope this helps.. Now if you are looking... » Read More As far as cutting 1/2 in popular, this saw will cut it with an aggressive blade attached. But It all depends on what you are wanting to do with it. Are you making fine tight curved cuts? I would recommend this saw. Are you cutting to final dimensions? I would use a table saw. If your heart is set on either a 9" band saw or this scroll saw, and I was doing final dimension cutting, I would find a bandsaw with a fence and miter gauge for more precise cutting. But overall I would recommend a table saw over both for cutting wood to final dimension. Hope this helps.. Now if you are looking to adding any fancy corbels or tight cut decorative additions to your work. The scroll saw will be my choice all day long.. « Show Less
707809
Aaron: You can lay a 2x6 flat, or stand it on edge. Which way are you talking about? You can cut at a 45 degree angle across the board, or tilt the blade (not swivel it) by 45 degrees. How about a better description of what you want to do. Regards, Pete
300250
I have owned Dewalt products for many years. I have a miter saw that is twenty years old and runs great. I upgraded to the DW717. It handles and well and is smooth to operate on the slides. I do not own any rigid tools.
666529
I wouldnt be to concerened with adjusting the blade to the miter slot, not important. Adjust your fence to the blade, because that is what you guild off of not the slot. 1/64 off is not bad for a contractor grade saw that is portable.