Looking for reassurance about excessive deflection on compound miter cuts: "thin kerf" blades around .090", standard blades .126". This blade is in between at .109"
2077475
No problem with blade deflection. I'm using the Chopmaster on a 12" Bosch model 5412L sliding compound miter saw. 45 degree cuts are spot on. I think there's more risk of deflection in the saw itself, and I'm careful not to put side pressure on the head of the saw when it's extended.
2077476
I've had no deflection issues with this blade whatsoever. It cuts smooth as glass!
2077477
There was no deflection when cutting the maple face frame on my most recent cabinet job, even when cutting 1/100" off end grain. Deflection, or lack thereof, is why I bought this blade, and it's been perfect.
2077478
I've seen some deflection with thicker hardwoods, but it wasn't excessive or unexpected. I'm still quite happy with this blade
2077479
Hmm, I did all kinds of cuts, and in hard flooring, I noticed not a bit of deflection. Note, these are premium blades, so even though they are thinner, I believe the central plate is properly hardened and stiff to avoid these issues.
2077480
Crosscutting is easier on the saw than ripping, so why not just go with the full kerf? Especially with a 12" span...most decent saws will spin it easily on crosscuts. Unless your making lots of cuts and the wood savings is substantial, there's little incentive not go with full kerf in this situation.
2077481
I have used the Forrest Chopmaster exclusively in my 12" DeWalt compound sliding miter saw. I would use no other. I cannot attest to the deflection, but it is the best, smoothest blade I have ever used. It makes accurate cuts, very smooth with little chip out on the back side of the cut.
1982465
http://www.crkt.com/K415KXPYou have al measures here. Be aware that the handle is on the thin side. I have thin hands myself, and still feels slightly weird.Now, even though my EDC is another blade, ti has a nice mechanism, and the blade itself's given me no trouble.
920958
Mine is exceptionally flat. I am not sure, however, if I would notice the difference between five or ten- thousandths of an inch in a chisel or plane blade. All I can tell you is my DWT 8 inch (all 3) was money well invested. Like the others, you wouldn't see a gap against a dead flat surface.
399912
There is actually an adjustment that the tool has as to the angle to witch the blade cuts. If you have it on the 100% perpendicular setting, there is very if any deflection at all. The only thing you need to watch out for is cutting really tight turns, as the blade does heat up and tends to burn the wood. All in all, I love this saw.
793593
I think what may be happening is they are making the blades with no tolerance at the hole because it is very difficult to get a good box cut unless the two blades are perfectly aligned. Unfortunately your arbor may be just above that tolerance. If you can bring the blades to a good machine shop they can make sure they are 5/8 inches. If your lucky they will reem them for you. If they fit right you will have no problem and you will love the box joints that you get.
1874618
That is somewhat of a wide open question. The saw seems well made. I've only had mine a few weeks and used it a few times. The cuts I've made were through 2 3/8 pipe and have been accurate and quite smooth. As I've used a Makita abrasive saw for years I would expect this one to hold up as well. I will continue to use the abrasive saw for less accurate straight cuts and reserve the new saw for miter cuts or where accuracy is paramount.
2052187
I have two blades like this and both measured the same as I expected. 1/64 inch, or 0.43mm, or 0.0170 inch. Hope this helps. Milt
947197
The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material... » Read More The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. « Show Less
862707
I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I ended up removing it given the fact that it simply did not perform to my expectations. I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I... » Read More I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I ended up removing it given the fact that it simply did not perform to my expectations. « Show Less
1593997
The lower wheel was a tiny bit out of true. The blade that comes with the saw (5/8") rode perfectly on the wheel. But when I changed to a 1/4 or 1/8 inch blade it started riding on the outside of the wheel. Customer service walked me through the process of getting that straight. Customer service was friendly and helpful without being condescending. Also we looked at the brand of blade I was using. Also it turns out that Timberwolf blades did not work well on the saw. What we saw was that two blades the same width had way different tension settings when installed on the saw. I hope that helps. The lower wheel was a tiny bit out of true. The blade that comes with the saw (5/8") rode perfectly on the wheel. But when I changed to a 1/4 or 1/8 inch blade it started riding on the outside of the wheel. Customer service walked me through the process of getting that straight. Customer service was friendly and helpful without being condescending. Also we looked at the brand of blade I was using. Also it turns out that Timberwolf blades did not work well on the saw. What we saw was that two blades the same width had way different tension settings when installed on the saw. I hope that... » Read More The lower wheel was a tiny bit out of true. The blade that comes with the saw (5/8") rode perfectly on the wheel. But when I changed to a 1/4 or 1/8 inch blade it started riding on the outside of the wheel. Customer service walked me through the process of getting that straight. Customer service was friendly and helpful without being condescending. Also we looked at the brand of blade I was using. Also it turns out that Timberwolf blades did not work well on the saw. What we saw was that two blades the same width had way different tension settings when installed on the saw. I hope that helps. « Show Less
1993954
Not sure. Forgive me for asking, but why do you need to know that? The kerf is the width of the cut=Outer Dimention of the cut. That's really what you need to know when you're shopping around for a TS or miter saw blade.
1634825
I have not tried that blade at low rpm.we use it in a 4000rpm dewalt miter saw, and it works very good on .050 wall thickness alum.extrusions
50635
The Cold Steel catalog came today!! Talk about good timing. Blade thickness on the ATC is listed at at 2.8 millimeters.
1381919
Just measuring a 7-1/4" Blade at max Depth it looks like 2-7/16". I haven't tried to cut anything thicker than that and then measure the cut to know more accurately.
1824512
if the miter slot is not 90' to the blade there will be problems making accurate cuts. The gauge is to tell you how far out of alignment the blade is to the miter slot so you can adjust it (the blade). Utube has videos that assist in the alignment of the blade to miter slot. Good luck
432473
So here is the break down of the metal oster blades.00000--almost as close as a straight edge0000--fades the hairline to almost the 00000000--a true 00A-- .25 guard1--is like using the open lever on traditional to get you the .51A-- .75 guard1 1/2-- 1/8 or a 1 guard2-- is using a 1.5 'guard'3 1/2-- is a 2 guard3 3/4--is a 3 guardthe metal guards do cut much closer but they do cut very nicely
1186230
I think the 70716 is a newer model. It's depth of cut is 3.25 (versus 2.75) and it's miter angle readout is more legible. I would pick the 70716 for those reasons alone.You might want to check with WEN and specifically ask them about the differences.As for me, I'm very satisfied with my 70711.