Can you have both follow-me and energy saver modes on at the same time? UPDATE: Spoke with techs (?) from keystone and they said a lag of 3-4 degrees is normal for both follow me and the energy saver. Seems like you need to set the temp LOWER than you...
1951065
Yes. The remote has an "energy saver" button on it to start or stop it. The "follow-me" remote will determine the set temperature at the remote instead of the AC unit. The follow-me can do everything, even glows in the dark. I am very happy with this AC, all the features, it is much more than they say it is, I recommend it to you.
893059
hi emily, i always use mine w/ the continuous on option. i can can set it low enough so it doesn't burn me .it's a great heating pad!
2249350
Not for me so far. I've seen comments from other owners that have reported burn-in. The internet consensus seems to be that burn-in is possible.
1943110
I do not use the "Auto" feature in my church application because we are only there a few times a week, so I can't tell you how well the feature works. However when set on the "Auto" mode it is supposed to switch back and forth from heat to cool. It can also be set in the "Heat" only or "Cool" only mode. I have had two of these for 5 years or more, and purchased 2 more about 2 years ago when we added to our church. I like them.Dean
43226
As others have said, make sure that you've set your programs to heat/cool in a way that fits your schedule. Also make sure that you've set the system to the appropriate setting. For example in the summer I set mine to "cool." In the fall/spring when I don't use the heating and cooling, I set it to "off" and then in the winter I switch it to "heat." These are the only things that I could think of that might be causing trouble.
1379960
It may well be due to the low temp setting at 51. I would suggest trying the automatic temperature control versus adjusting the save-smart temperature and see if it makes any difference. The physical size of the area you are heating can also make a difference. Ours doesn't cycle near as often, but we keep the temperature set at 68 and heat a 900 sq ft area. If you still suspect something is wrong call 1-800-233-0268 (Lasko customer service) and see what they tell you. No matter what we'd appreciate knowing what you find out.
1755767
Mine is doing the same thing. It states the max temp is 190, so setting it at the max should be safe and it operate normally. Has anyone else set there's at the max and it works fine? thanks
700504
That sucks. When mine is on it's set to Cool/Low/62/No Ion. It still doesn't actually cool particularly well (as my review says), but it does stay on indefinitely. You could try "power cycling" it. Unplug for 10 minutes or so (to make certain the compressor is reset) then try again. Works for routers, lol. Also consider maybe its an electrical issue. Try plugging in to a different circuit or something? Or is something bouncing air back into it that could be causing it to get wrong air temps? I'm just throwing out ideas here. :)
1065435
I run mine on low speed most of the time and noticed a $20 savings on my first month. It wasn't a full month, so I'll know more this month. I'm sure there is an energy savings because PG&E; gave me a $100 rebate and it is an energy star.
1498682
If your unit is turning on in that manner, there is probably a setting in the menu for motion sensitivity. I would suggest turning this option off. May be under some kind of energy savings menu.
1086762
I can't answer that directly. I've had mine in for less than a month. I can tell you that it's not necessary to have it on all the time. I programmed mine to run constantly in the mornings and evenings when the water gets heavy use in our house. For the time in between I have set it to go on and off every 15 minutes. I work from home and use the water fairly often at those times. I have noticed no real difference than when it's running full time at peak hours. There is also no reason to have it running in the middle of the night. I look at it more from a longevity of the pump perspective than an energy perspective. I don't think they use that much energy to run, but the pump (any pump) has a life span. The only reason I may run mine at night is for winter. The farthest pipes from the water heater are on an outside wall. A well-insulated outside wall, but if we get sub-zero temps like we did last year I may run every half hour or so at night just to keep the pipe warm.
849010
Most systems must be installed by a licensed contractor and have a permit to collect the rebates. This insures that the inspector has verified that the system was installed correctly. If you must have a 14 SEER, then getting a 15 SEER would be best to make sure that you at least meet the standards. 16 SEER will meet those standards, and save even more energy, yet is much more expensive. Sometimes a 14 SEER system will not meet the 14 SEER rating due to smaller air ducts, or other problems. Also how many square feet are you trying to heat and cool? What state are you in? This will help verify if the system is sized properly. Also do you plan on installing back up heater? If so what size? I disconnected my 20 KW electric heater when installing my 4 ton heat pump. For back up heat, I will use one section of the 20 KW, and disconnected 1/2 of that, giving me a primary 5 KW electric heat back up. Then have a 10 minute time delay, so that the other 10 KW heater contactor will energize to provide another 34,000 Btu's of heat when it is calling for heat more than 10 minutes. I could have wired the 5 KW heater to run at the same time as the heat pump is in defrost, however I decided I would rather have 5-7 minutes of cold air and save the energy. My 4 ton heat pump makes about 48,000 BtuH of heating, at 55F outside air temp, then will defrost for about 2-3 minutes per hour (at 55F outside air temp). During defrost, it reverses to cooling cycle, and will blow out cold air (if it is 70F inside the home, it will blow out 50F air for a few minutes). By running a 5 KW electric heater ($0.50 to $0.75 per hour - depending on local electric costs) this can warm the air to about 65F while in defrost. I am just cheap and want to save the money! If my family complains to much, I might have to run the 5 KW heater during defrost.
1776544
Minimum temperature for heat? I use this in home office in 1 walled off bay in un-insulated 3 car Garage. Tonight it was 52 degrees F when I turned it on and after about 45 minutes its 64. I don't see why it'd have a minimum but may not want to try below 32? Read the manual? Might be specified... Extended warranties: Dunno....in general I never use them but have recently started for my kids cell phones but nothing else. This might be a good candidate though ...it works great after a few years but if something breaks its probably not repairable...(spare parts from China??? no Maytag repairmen on this thing???)
1342848
Yes.At those temperatures, the %RH cannot be very high. If it is, you would be enjoying an "indoor fog." Don't allow it to run constantly. Try setting the unit to 45 or 50% RH at normal speed. Don't be surprised if the unit seldom runs until you reach an ambient 65 - 70 degrees.
1292758
Yep, I've had mine running all winter long. The unit itself doesn't get hot and once the room reaches the desired temp (set by you) it goes into power save mode.
1452206
It didn't go up much higher for me. The amount I saved on my gas bill pretty much transferred to electricity, but previously I was freezing in my second floor bedroom at night while my 1st floor living room was almost too warm. At least now the heat is where I need it to be. I was considering getting a thermostat controlled heater because sometimes I'll wake up in the middle of the night and its in the upper 80's in my room.
1250446
Hi Mr. James. I just got home to check out your predicament, and I can say that I arrived at close to the same conclusion. I set my fan to manually run at max and there is a visual disconnect though the Precision X HUD. The meter says my fan is running at max, but the digital readout on PX says it's only at 80%. That's not exactly what you're reading (75%)...but it looks like the same issue. For comparison sake I took the other fan software and did the same thing to see if I noticed the same issue.... and I did. For some reason all the Fan software I use say the max is 80%. What I found out after looking into it more was that EVGA apparently puts a limit on the max speed you can run their fans using external controllers. I do not know if the card itself will push the fans above 80%, but it seems that when using other software, that is the max. ...even so. Whether your fan is running at a true 75% top speed or the actual max speed, I find that my fan on max keeps things cooled to about 40-44c...which is well below maximum temps. Hope that helps! (on a side note, I've read that you want to keep these cards at 70c or cooler in order not to lose any clock speed. Supposedly, once they hit 70c the card throttles back the clock until temps are below 70)