Do I add this to epoxy resin mixture, then pour as one liquid? Or is it added after?
276125
Add it to one part of the mix, get it thoroughly incorporated, and then add your second mix part. If you added it after you mixed both parts you wouldn't have enough time to get it all mixed with some resins. Hope that helps!
289741
I would not put this product through a sprayer as it is like a two part epoxy and will solidify in your machine. Apply with a hand tool, and only mix up what you can work with. This is an awesome product, which I had much success with, but read and follow the directions.
1309467
If you plan to pour it in and let it dry as a thick brick shape in the box, Melamine board with either silicon mold release on it, or plastic wrap over the board on the end you dont want it pouring out of. If you mean you are just gonna put it on to get a thin layer on all sides of it, I don't think this will be the right product for you. I would go with a spray on poly. This product is a thick, self leveling viscous liquid. It won't stick to the aluminum long enough to dry evenly.
1592622
if you acid washed the concrete and proper prep instructions this simple 2 sided tape should not in no way hurt the epoxy. the only way it would is if the epoxy was not cured to the floor in this area. hope this helps. A Bonus I went with the traffic signal style $20 here for the plus model as I got tired of kicking these things. Good luck.
231225
Our 300/21 epoxy has 100% solids with no solvents. It will adhere to polyurethane foam, polystyrene, and Styrofoam without dissolving the foams. Thank you.
1698399
No it is a two part mix. You need to premix and pour. You cannot spray this material.
1057531
This two-part epoxy, when mixed with its 'Part B' hardener (pictured), will cure in an amber color. The final result will *not* be clear.
2141797
Have never used it on epoxy,and i dont think one should. Works great on my rifles,wood and metal.
614529
As jgr says make sure u follow the directions. The package comes with everything. u will only need a container to mix the two solutions together.
20556
I definitely think you could, and that you'd be very pleased with the result. Some tips: make sure your surface is as level as you can get it before application, make sure you mix the heck out of the two components, like ad-nauseum, when you think you've mixed enough, mix it more. I found it useful to have a heat gun handy during application. If you see bubbles, gently hit them with the heat gun and they'll come out. Be careful not to burn the epoxy compound though!
1878045
When you mix it with the hardener it forms a viscous liquid that can easily be poured onto surfaces. Or, I use it to fill gaps in rotted wood trim by mixing it with sawdust to make a thick paste that will not pour.
2047888
You can add up to ounce of `universal' type tints to each kit to make the epoxy into lighter and pastel colors. Universal Paint Tints are a liquid universal coloring system that can be mixed with oil or water-based paints. Since the epoxy is bright white, it cannot be made into dark colors since the base is white. These universal tints are available at paint stores. It is recommended that you have the paint store add the tint to the Part A (Color Component) before mixing with Part B (Epoxy Hardener). If you are using more than one kit, I would suggest mixing all Part A's together tinting before mixing with Part B (just keep mix ratio the same). Have the paint store mix in tint and put on paint shaker for even distribution. There will probably be a small fee for this.
308773
A batch is six ounces.......it really depends on the ambient temperature where you are working.....don't work in the direct sun. The hotter it is the faster the set up. I poured a table top so I mixed and poured very quickly, but you don't have more than a few minutes to work without it getting sticky on you. Also the thinner the layer the longer the set time, it sets up much faster when it is collected in a cup. Epoxy is not like varnish or paint, the thicker the layer the faster it goes off because of a chain reaction from the build up of the heat that it generates when it cures. If you want to increase the pot life or cure time then spread it out into a thin layer. Also, follow the instructions to the letter without deviation. There is a minimum working temp that it needs to be at or it will remain soft and only partially cured. This stuff is sensitive, takes practice to work with this stuff. But it is worth the effort, the bubbles will rise and break on their own and the surface is crystal clear.
1286092
Again and again. I mix the gels on paper plates. Easy clean up that way. And I also keep the epoxy in a ziplock bag to put away.
1334503
I would expect that, technically, it would easily fill and adhere to the ring surface. I would just not know how constant contact with your skin would react. The cured product seems rather inert but you might want to test a small amount placed against your skin for a couple of days to be sure. I would do this before permanently adding to the structure of a ring you might want to keep. I saw another answer recommending a two part product. This epoxy product IS a two part item as it has one part on the outside ring with a central core of the second hardener. You just tear off what you need and then twist and pull the putty-like substance until blended. It will harden like steel.
301759
It is concentrated, so I would mix with water according to label instructions and pour that into the sprayer and have at it. Thoroughly clean the sprayer after use even if you are going to use it only with this product.
1036834
It doesn't come pre-mixed, so you'll need to mix it with water. It's useful to have another container that you can mix with. Just make sure they can hold the same amount of volume, otherwise you'll need a good way to measure the mix. Typically I keep an old used coolant jug (rinsed of course) from the generic brands for this purpose. Like many others have said, 50/50 is best recommended.