I want to fill the gaps (1/16 - 1/4") between boards in a wooden floor. I want a pot life of at least 1/2 hour, and a viscosity of honey. Suggestions?
281176
When you add the hardener, mixture will be thin. Wait a few minutes but keep an eye on it. It thickens and you literally only have a short time to work with it. I suggest working in small quantities. Highly suggest doing an experiment first.
378217
My guess is that you would use about three quarters of one tube during the initial application. I use this product on a butcher block top kitchen island about once a month to maintain a moisture/stain barrier on the natural wood. The wood absorbs less board cream after the initial application so you probably wouldn't use that much ever time you apply it.
838646
Fill the perimeter with mortar bed. Just be sure the get a slope from the perimeter to the kerdi tray
690092
I wouldn't do more than 1/4-1/2 inch at a time, as you need to get air bubbles out. Perhaps you could several layers to get to a desired thickness. I have not tried to do so.
1264598
They are gaps, but very small. I painted the top of our table with chalkboard paint and it came out great.
951781
You could try the woodchips sold at most big box hardware stores. Find it with the charcoal.
1016647
IMO, I'd probably use some small chapstick pots that screw shut instead of tubes.
1176544
I'm trying that this year as well. I have a bunch of hardwood logs that are in good shape and I purchased Red Cheese wax. This weekend, I will be drilling the holes, inserting the plugs and covering the holes up with the wax. A pretty ribbon will finish it off. I received limited directions with the plugs.
42078
Daddy Van's Bees Wax would work. It takes multiple coats to get nice deep luster, and also makes the surface water resistant. I made a table out of a Tulip tree round and added around 14 coats of beeswax ... no trouble with water and it has a deep hand rubbed luster to it.
939487
at least an hour -- that's all i've tried. i must admit i use it for an unintended purpose: grinding foam rubber for model railroad scenery purposes in lieu of buying commercial product. i just got it & am still learning how full to fill, what setting, how long, etc. it seems a good machine, and ought to be quite satisfactory for its intended use. ajs
1773739
2" deep is a huge amount to fill with this product. It is for thin skim or filling of thin cracks. For your application I would wet the area with water and then use a PVA concrete adhesive such as Sikalatex on the recess. When it is still wet use regular concrete mix just a little more water than usual to allow it bed in properly and keep the fill about 1/16" below the garage floor surface. After it has dried for a week or so then you can use a thin coat of this epoxy to level out the filled area and feather it into the surrounding area. You can even sand it a little after it dries for 24 hours... 2" deep is a huge amount to fill with this product. It is for thin skim or filling of thin cracks. For your application I would wet the area with water and then use a PVA concrete adhesive such as Sikalatex on the recess. When it is still wet use regular concrete mix just a little more water than usual to allow it bed in properly and keep the fill about 1/16" below the garage floor surface. After it has dried for a week or so then you can use a thin coat of this epoxy to level out the filled area and feather it into the surrounding area. You can even sand it a little after it... » Read More 2" deep is a huge amount to fill with this product. It is for thin skim or filling of thin cracks. For your application I would wet the area with water and then use a PVA concrete adhesive such as Sikalatex on the recess. When it is still wet use regular concrete mix just a little more water than usual to allow it bed in properly and keep the fill about 1/16" below the garage floor surface. After it has dried for a week or so then you can use a thin coat of this epoxy to level out the filled area and feather it into the surrounding area. You can even sand it a little after it dries for 24 hours... « Show Less
44014
As long as you have the right set up to properly clamp the jig and board down to your workbench, you could probably go as long as you'd like. It's open ended, so there's no restriction there, but you have to have a rather elaborate clamping system to do really long pieces. If you use a router table, it makes everything easier on you and you only have to use a spacer that is proper thickness to keep your board level. If all you use is the jig and basic clamps, I'd say 24" tops for ease of use.
1476222
I am not certain that I understand what you want to do. Great Stuff is a foam and does not have any real structural strength. It is just a foam like stuffing marshmallow in the gap. It will fill a gap but if you hit it with anything it will just tear and break off parts of the foam.
1384354
A few table spoons.....it does not take much. 2lbs should last a very long time. Rinse the wood 5 or 6 times before sanding and wear a face mask if you do.
1307724
I would recommend you ask the flooring supplier. That's what I did when I installed my first floor. I purchased the flooring at a local place not a big box store as I wasn't satisfied with their quality the first time. Purchase 1st or 2nd quality otherwise you may find inconsistency in with of boards. As it turns out I put down 3/4 inch solid tongue and groove over tar paper on 3/4 inch subfloor. He recommended 1 1/2 inch staples. Been a few year now and all ok. Floor was installed over a crawl space so they advised tar paper butted and taped at the seams.
1225992
In the bottom metal part, do not over fill, use about 1/2 inch. Also go on line and ask for directions.
1335286
I use a block of wood that is about six inches long, clamp it to the bottom edge, and place the jig against it. Do the same at the back to get the same spacing.