How often would I need to apply this to a kitchen table (face grain, not end-grain)? I am thinking of using this instead of re-applying Emmet's Good
292409
I only applied it once so far (its been almost a year) to my island in the kitchen and it still looks beautiful. I use my island daily, so it gets a good workout :).
292410
John Boos is great when you use it every two weeks for regular use of the block, however during heavy cooking seasons such as Chrstmas, Thansgiving and the Fourth July you should use on both faces of the block. Please be sure to follow the product instructions for application.
1318195
That all depends what "daily use" means. Are you planning on applying it liberally or only using a drop? Will you need to re-apply after 12 hrs, or just be using it once a day? How extensive is the surface area you'll need to cover each day? In my experience, one container will not last 2 weeks. It's pretty small, being only 2 oz.
1161737
I can't say if it's good for your kitchen cabinets. My cabinets are very old mahogany with a low sheen varnish with a lot of mileage...a scratch here and there. I clean the cabinets with a dampened cloth to remove dust/ dirt. Let dry and apply Rejuvenate. They are still old but with a shiny and perky look about them.
1866719
I use about once every two weeks. Use depends on how often your counter tops are used and wiped down.It really makes the counter tops shine. I like the spray bottle better than the old bottle ,which was a heavy paste. I have been using this for years to keep my counter tops looking new.
359150
A little goes a long way. I would think you could polish all of your cabinets several times with one bottle. I use it on my wood furniture about once every three months; dust in between. It smells wonderful! One bottle lasts me over a year.
465721
spray it with a water bottle every week or so. Depends on how dry it is in your home.
1738582
Actually, it is like a peanut butter consistency. The best idea is to use it around base boards behind your refrigerator etc. a lot of people have had good results putting dots of this on index cards instead of actually on the wood in cabinets etc.
2094308
I can't help with the shelf life question because I always use it up rather quickly. My dermatologist recommended it and after my first purchase, I was sold! A great product to use under foundation or by itself.
9689
For sure. We use it for our entire dining room table, and a jar lasts us nearly a year. Initially you'll use the jar quickly, so might make sense to buy two to start off with. Good luck!
1318243
I apply it as often as I like, but it lasts for weeks so there is no need to apply often! Every once in a while you might want to give your nails a break and use a nail strengthener.
2254955
actually I am not the seller I am a buyer and I never had that problem. Maybe that one was flawed. The grains are slightly bumpy but not painful maybe your skin is sensitive. I never had a problem with it, neither my sister or niece that used it.Request another or contact amazon for a refund. Once again I bought the product I don't sell them. If you want something milder for your face try bentonite clay it clears almost any skin or disoder. check out aboutclaydotcom.
1004707
If you were to use this on varnished surfaces, it might tend to seat on the surface and get gummy. It is best used on open grained surfaces. It is really a form of rub on varnish that needs to penetrate the surface. I have had very good results using it on old, cracked varnished surfaces like you would have on antique pieces. Use several light coats, never try to put a thick coat down. Rub the excess off between coats after it has sit for 15 to 30 minutes. I have a boat with an open grained teak interior that I use this on and it looks great. I have built numerous pieces of furniture made from pine, teak, cherry and other woods and find that multiple coat of this (6+) provide a very attractive finish that holds up well with a single recoat every 6 months to a year instead of wax or furniture polish.
378216
I would use plain mineral oil for the first couple of coats, then switch to the Board Cream. I'm guessing it will take a couple more coats at that point to get it fully into the wood. Allow it to soak in overnight at least between coats. A tube of the Board Cream should be enough for that first treatment, but that's just a guess. (All my boards are end grain, and being Boos boards, came already treated.)
1555539
Emmet's Good Stuff is great. We fabricate butcher block countertops and emmet's is the only thing we use to finish them. It is very strong, food safe and has a beautiful finish. It does the yellow the wood a shade. The only other thing we used to use is food grade mineral oil that you can pick up at any walgreens or CVS, in the laxative isle. It does raise the grain of the wood a bit so make sure you sand the top to at least 200 grit or higher. Anything less will be a rough finish once the mineral oil sets in. The mineral oil also just seals the wood for a little while it will have to be re applied at least yearly. Mineral oil, also wont protect against any scratching. Emmet's Good Stuff is great. We fabricate butcher block countertops and emmet's is the only thing we use to finish them. It is very strong, food safe and has a beautiful finish. It does the yellow the wood a shade. The only other thing we used to use is food grade mineral oil that you can pick up at any walgreens or CVS, in the laxative isle. It does raise the grain of the wood a bit so make sure you sand the top to at least 200 grit or higher. Anything less will be a rough finish once the mineral oil sets in. The mineral oil also just seals the wood for a little while it will have to be re... » Read More Emmet's Good Stuff is great. We fabricate butcher block countertops and emmet's is the only thing we use to finish them. It is very strong, food safe and has a beautiful finish. It does the yellow the wood a shade. The only other thing we used to use is food grade mineral oil that you can pick up at any walgreens or CVS, in the laxative isle. It does raise the grain of the wood a bit so make sure you sand the top to at least 200 grit or higher. Anything less will be a rough finish once the mineral oil sets in. The mineral oil also just seals the wood for a little while it will have to be re applied at least yearly. Mineral oil, also wont protect against any scratching. « Show Less
459375
my method may not be the best... after applying the gel, i left it on for more than 30mins.. i used scraper to remove the paint (don't need too much force).. then repeat the cycle twice.. that's when i see the wood..i clean the surface with tap water & old sponge (be careful of splinters).. after cleaning, there is still an extremely little bit of hair-width sized paint that's left within the wood grain pattern.. but i don't mind that..hope i answer ur question =)
655672
One more thing: do NOT put anything wet under the board. It will raise the grain. And use regular mineral oil on the surface to protect it.
1192841
Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to leave any part of your gun "oily" as that is a place for grit/grime/carbon to build up rapidly. Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to... » Read More Definitely not a problem. I've used this stuff for 4 years. I realized very quickly that in most cleaning situations I can use just a little of the product. I'll soak the inside of the barrel and let it sit. Everywhere else just gets a wipe down. If I do an indepth cleaning I might use a little more on the firing pin and wipe it off really good. I remove any oil reside with dry worn out cotton shirts and reapply one tiny little dot / dab of oil on one contact point and spread it to the other contact points with my finger or cue-tip. I use VERY little to accomplish this. It's not good to leave any part of your gun "oily" as that is a place for grit/grime/carbon to build up rapidly. « Show Less