we have bruce hardwood floors - some of finish has completely rubbed off and am trying to use this instead of refinishing - do we need to sand first?
295422
Tina, I'm not a pro but I would expect different absorption rates giving you a blotchy finish. If your other option is to sand, why not try a small area and if I'm right and you then have to sand, what have you lost?
295423
I am pretty sure you'd have to sand fiirst. This finish will be a lot different than the original finish. OSMO soaks in rather than sits on the surface like polyurethane. My guess is that the bruce floors are finished with polyurethane. I use this finish on all the furniture I make. It's beautiful
295424
This product is more like an oil than a top coat finish so it depends on what the other product you have used as to how it all might look if you go ahead and apply the polyx to the rubbed off area. The good news is that you could give this product a try, and then if it hasn't blended in well, then try sanding later. When you sand afterwards it's not the same as sanding off a 'varnish', you are simply sanding the floor boards themselves (as the polyx is absorbed rather than sitting on the surface). Hope this makes sense. I also am no expert, just a user.
525116
I am sorry, but we never used it after all. We have hardwood floors a nd had them refinished professionally.
2038871
You would have to de-blacken the scratches and possibly fill them in with wood putty, if needed. As a clear varnish, this would otherwise heighten the contrast between the scratches and the floor. Alternatively, you could just go with the distressed look and pretend you did it on purpose.
2173683
I actually tried it both ways to see. Most definitely it is better to just light sand. Put the first coat on... Let dry.. Light sand again and Whahoo! New cabinets! I love mine to the point I'm scrapping the idea for new cabinets. This will let me wait a few more years till I'm ready to pull the trigger for new! Good luck!
108643
I used a medium coarse pad and a mouse sander. After I used the buffing pad, worked great
451757
Sure, why not. The finish is not gloss so you might be able to find a paint that you can use without sanding it. However the best way would be do a light sand, paint with primer and then apply the finish coat.
1257991
Sanded ready to finish wood. You'll have to either clear coat with some type of polyurethane or stain and varish. It's bare wood
1848755
I agree, Bruce wax was far superior. Two months ago I did my floors...disappointed, already showing wear. Anyone know where Bruce floor wax is!!
1355794
I agree with the other responses. The wood has been finished with a lacquer or polyurethane. It could be removed with a stripper, and would then need to be sanded before staining. It would take some work especially with hand sanding in small areas. I suggest you live with the natural for a while and then see how you feel about it...
527306
It will not make it look new, so I would clean the wood first. After it is good and dry, use the beeswax generously and after applying a coat, wait a few minutes then buff with a clean, dry, rag that is white. It has a wonderful muted shine when used on wood furniture. To clean the crib, I might use diluted vinegar with dish detergent instead of Murphy's wood Soap. It has never done a good job for me on old wood. Anyway, that's my two cents. I just love the Van's Beeswax.
517120
The wood is very smooth and it could be fine without polyurethane. We did put polyurethane on, and as Gennaro says below, you need two coats and should lightly sand the first coat before putting on the second. So you don't need to also sand the wood.
60581
It depends on the wood underneath the carpet. If its smooth and flat, then you should be fine. I would pull the staples and nails instead of hammering them, and I highly suggest you use a adhesive flooring primer. If the wood isn't smooth and flat, sand it down and definitely use the primer.*note* for lining it up, there are arrows on the backing paper that you use to line it up. We went every other one up then right and loved the design.
27151
Perhaps, but why? A water-based conditioner will raise the grain on the wood, meaning that you'll need to sand it again before staining. This product is not water based. If you have a different water-based product in mind, I would check the directions on the label. It will probably say. But for myself, I avoid them.
891644
Works great on hardwood floors. We have Bruce flooring, glossy finish. No scratches.
453087
I agree with David. Scuff the surface of the floor where the glue will be applied using 100 grit sand paper. It shouldn't take much. Just take off some of the shine.
1907283
The wood is finished, so not sure it would take a stain without sanding or taking off the finish.
1880863
Yes, if you are going to refinish anyway, this product won't harm the wood. Just lightly sand the surface, and this product will provide a temporary fix and protect the surface.