can i hook this up directly to my rv batteries with what it comes packaged with or do i splice and use alligator clips if this can be done, and what is the best inverter to use when i completly go off grid and have a bank of batteries can i hook this up directly to my rv batteries with what it comes packaged with or do i splice and use alligator clips if this can be done, and what is the best inverter to use when i completly go... » Read More can i hook this up directly to my rv batteries with what it comes packaged with or do i splice and use alligator clips if this can be done, and what is the best inverter to use when i completly go off grid and have a bank of batteries « Show Less
270171
No, it is more involved than that. You will need a controller and two circuit breakers. The inverter and controller will depend on what you want to do with your solar
270172
No, buy a solar charger, and fine a true or pure sine wave power inverter that suits your needs
270173
In order to safely and effectively charge your batteries the panels should run to a solar charge controller, I use Morningstar and they are what was recommended to me, then to your battery. The controller manages the incoming and outgoing voltage so that you don't over charge or over discharge your batteries. Whenever sunlight hits the panels they produce electricity and you need the help of our robot overlords manage the awesome power of the sun.
270174
You will need an invertor and a charge controller and make sure it is a pure sine wave inverter even if it's a cheap version just make sure it says pure sine wave.
270175
You must use a solar charge controller and absolutely 'not' connecting the solar panel to the battery bank directly. I'm using Xantrex inverter, but there're a few brands work well also. Make sure it's a "true sine" wave inverter, well worth the money. You also want to look into if you want just an inverter or an inverter with charger? The combined unit may save you some time in troubleshooting problems later on. Talk to a few RV installers before making purchase, and avoid the shops who say they'll do whatever you want.
1842484
Hi Edward,This is the right way to use the inverter>>> http://www.amazon.com/review/R3RTW2NTIXFOON/Hope this helpsRegards,Angela CS Email Representative
1953352
Hey man.... just connect it like the instructions tell you. Direct to the positive and negative on the battery. Not part of the charger. Connect and forget and let it do it's thing. Mine has been on my RV battery all winter while I'm staying in it in Arizona. Works by itself. Still have the original battery in my 2008 rig.
336377
Thank you for bringing that to our attention.After checking our system, we found that it could not be plugged into the renogy solar panel controler as to hook the controller to rv batteries. Thank you in advance for your patience and understanding.
721808
This device doesn`t support the batterys.Your Charge controller & solar panels determon what charge is in your batterys. The amount of amps drawn from your battery to run this device is determoned by how much power your load is drawing from the inverter.I have 30 deep cycle marine batterys supplying power to my 2500 watt inverter & I run two 1000 watt electric heaters, my frig. and house lights when I have a good supply of sunlight charging my batterys at 14.3 volts from three 40 amp charge controllers.I have at times seen this inverter draw my batterys down on a very cloudy day to 9.6 volts and still put out 115 volts.Any lower battery voltage and the inverter will shut down, but will come back on automatically as soon as the battery voltage gets built back high enough to run the inverter.
1000455
This is designed to charge your battery or batteries, not to directly power lights and fans and whatnot. I have mine set up in conjunction with a solar panel grid. Each runs through a charge controller of its own and into a distribution block before going into the battery bank. To run lights or AC powered items you will need to either use a power inverter connected to your batteries. This is a great little turbine but its not designed to power something all by itself. Since wind speeds vary its power output will vary. you will want a charge controller to cut off power flow if the winds blow too hard or if your batteries are fully charged to prevent overcharging. think of the wiring like this: turbine&gt;charge controller&gt;battery bank&gt;power inverter&gt;lights and fans. I hope that helps. If not search YouTube for a guy named LDSprepper. I wired my solar and battery bank like his but I added the turbines for cloudy days.
1662461
Jedi, Thank you for your message. This battery is usually charged with a 12V 1 or 2 Amp charger, that you plug into the wall and connect the alligator clips to the terminals on the battery. Please let me know if there is anything else we can assist you with.
264142
I had an rv place do the wiring. There's a pigtail with a plug that's hooked on car, I plug that into the plug on the trailer.Sorry, I don't know the technicalities of how to do it. It would vary from vehicle to vehicle anyway.
908750
This unit will work on any 12V lead acid type battery no matyter what it is in/on. If you don't drive the car often just hook up the alligator clips. If you store it get the cord that will tie to the battery and run it out under the hood of car and simply unplug when you want to drive the car.
1021668
I'm not sure that I understand the question, but I will try to answer what I think is being asked. First, my inverter is directly connected to my power source on my truck. So I don't use anything that will run my truck batteries down while the truck is not running. If this Digital Inverter can be charged from a 110v wall outlet, then it will probably draw a lot of power to charge I would not charge it from my inverter unless my truck is running and I wouldn't be running anything else at the same time.. You could damage the electrical system in your truck and/or damage your inverters. Hope this helps.
1298228
I suggest that you use as heavy a wire as you can attach to clip or loop end to. The heavier the wire the more energy you get. Single strand or braided wire is fine as long as you can get it into the screw loop end attachment. Of course that goes onto the Charge Controller. Now it depends on what type of battery posts you have. if you have a threaded post with a wing nut or large nut then I was use another larger end loop connecter. If not just go buy some small but heavy alligator clamps, you know kind of like what the ends of jumper cables use, just smaller. I had to replace my Sunforce regulator. It failed after about 2 months of use. I don't know why but where I to guess I would say from moisture accumulating within the regulator during rainy weather. So keep it dry. I don't mean to try to change your mind about the product, because it did work well. when it worked. But when I replaced it I found a product that I like much better for a couple reasons, first and foremost it was only $35, which included shipping and it arrived in 2 days! Secondly it has a digital readout screen that tells you exactly how many volts are being produced by your panels. The Sunforce doesn't have any read out at all, only lights that I could never tell if it was working or not. I had to use my own personal digital tester to know my panel output. I replaced the Sunforce 500 watt, which was around $80 with a Thunderbolt Magnum 500 watt for $35 shipping included. Good luck with your charger and I hope I wasn't too confusing when trying to answer your question. As I stated, just use simple loop wire connector ends to attach to the charger and also a similar but larger type connector if your battery has threaded ends with wing nuts. If it has basic battery post just get some large alligator clips and attach it to the battery. Use as heavy a wire as possible, single strand is best. They work fine as long as you keep them clean. Do everything you can to water proof all you electronics.
1318351
The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it drops to a certain voltage. So solar panel isn't being used to its full advantage. The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it... » Read More The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it drops to a certain voltage. So solar panel isn't being used to its full advantage. « Show Less
72527
I used a 1/4-20 (1/4" dia., 20 thread per inch) tap to thread the existing bolt holes in the studs to prevent losing all those nuts and washers. I believe my cables are 4AWG with 5/16" connectors. One thought I had the other day is, I wonder how well a set of jumper cables would work at connecting between the inverter and battery?
1719678
I installed this in a boat but still had the same problem with the cable length. I replaced the supplied cable with a different cable and terminated the new cable to the boat battery. The boat battery has screw terminals so it made connection easy. However I just did almost the same thing in my old truck hooking up an amplifier that took #4 awg cable. I purchased a large fuse holder at Radio Shack (cost $13.99) and purchased some 40 Amp round AGC fuses at Auto Zone, and I purchased a battery connection tap (I have a side mount battery but they also make some for conventional batteries) at Auto Zone. For cable I just purchased a cheap #14 awg extension cord at Wal-mart (orange jacket with three #14 awg conductors inside). I connected all 3 conductors together to use as one positive cable and I connected all 3 conductors together to use as one negative cable. The combined ampacity of all 3 conductors tied together was more than the amp or an inverter would require.
1831632
I haven't hooked mine up yet, but my understanding is that if you run your panel(s) through a voltage regulator to the batteries and hook up the inverter to the batteries. The panel itself will not run an inverter.
366251
If it's a properly grounded, running vehicle, the battery ground should be solidly attached to the chassis. Therefor, attaching the inverter to bat + and any good chassis ground should be fine. But getting a set of those quick connect jumpers and using for the inverter rather than jumper cables would be ideal!
60011
If I understand it correctly, it"s kind of like a "Miracle Charge" you would put on your motorcycle or antique car, but this one, "a microprocessor-controller that constantly monitors the RV battery status and automatically selects one of four charging modes: Boost Mode - (14.4) to quickly bring the battery to 90 percent of full charge, Normal Mode - (13.6) safely completes the charge, Storage Mode - (13.2), automatically activates after 30 hours of non-use or Desulfation Mode - (14.4), for 15 minutes every 21 hours to prevent battery stratification and sulfation (the leading cause of battery failure)." I think it monitors the batteries, locates the lo battery and re-routes power from another battery. It's not really a battery chargers, but more of a routing station. My RV has 5 batteries and sometime certain batteries use more power than others and this helps keep them all charged ith in the same range. That is what the hi-lighted section refers to. Mine has worked very well. Dont buy the cae they try to sell with it. Its plastic and will disappear with a good kick. I used a chain of a cable with a lock. I hope this helps, but I could be totalyy wrong.