How is this different from UL10-U30 model? All I want is a hood with real 900 CFM (or at least close to it). thanks.
271837
Based on my research before purchasing, the difference between these 2 units, per the XtremeAir website, is that the PX10-U30 features "4-speed screen touch sensitive electronic control w/ blue LED display; programmable 1-15 minute delayed power auto shut off; and remote control." The UL10-U30 has "3-speed mechanical EZ push buttons"; no touch display, no delayed auto shut off and no remote control. the PX also offers sensor operation, and I don't see that listed among the features of the UL. Bells and whistles in terms of the controls is the primary difference as far as I can tell. As to whether it's a "true 900CFM", I can't tell you for certain, but I can tell you that I've been extremely happy with the suction and smoke evacuation from this unit, not to mention the quietness. Installation was a bit of a bear, and definitely not one-man job. It's not overly "complicated", just that the unit is heavy and cumbersome and you definitely need to be methodical. But, if you take your time, go step-by-step (and have some help), I think you'll be as happy with the unit as I am. Hope that helps.
1443164
I have this running on a 9590 currently, and it does a decent job. I range between 27-47C. I had a different setup before with dual inline radiators, but I have not had the time to get this setup implemented again.
1240380
I am sorry but I cannot help you with this, as I have never heard of that particular model. I do know that the one I have works great for me. I have an extra large living room area with cathedral ceilings and I use this for supplemental heat in the winter.
1999988
I would guess that it is approximately 900 cfm as it comes out of the box. However, I fashioned a shroud that is about 2-1/2" deep that helps to direct the air flow cleaner (think air tunnel here) through the fan. It seems to have increased air flow through the fan which I would guess is over 1,000 cfm (or more), but I don't have a device to measure the speed. So far a great fan and I have no complaints with it.
1312451
(after my first comment) I now see the 2500 cfm fan uses an "efficient PSC motor"...and costs $10+$12=$22 more, so it is a special motor giving it high efficiency.(apparently larger blades too) Wiki says : "PSC motors (permanent-split capacitor) are frequently used in air handlers, blowers, and fans (including ceiling fans) and other cases where variable speeds are desired." ...or for improved efficiency apparently. So I now say "it's the special motor"..... I also see the numbers are misleading, so read all the details.. the "1500" moves 1300cfm for a 1850sf attic, and says 3.4 amp, but also below says 2.6 amp! the one I bought. The "1600" actually is a 1600 cfm fan so it says, for a 2400sf attic at 4.5 amp, and seems to be 15"x15". The "2500" relates not to the cfm, but to the 2500sf attic! only 100 more than the "1600" model... with amps supposedly at 2.1, but listed as 21"x21". good luck.
1849865
Unfortunately no it is not....The hood you need is an AM132526. Thanks for looking.
1480353
I don't know cfm rating-not listed, sorry not near fan to check. Permanent lubed bearings I believe was in the literature.
1730564
Not 100% about a GLS. I have a Limited but from what I see, the hoods are the same.
949543
Not sure. I bought it for my son who's dorm room is on 20th floor of old building. I did a lot of research, while none of the smoke hoods are perfect, this is clearly the best one on the market.
748775
i think it is to low quality motor .the motor and fan is just a larger range hood type fan.i would buy bigger for that use
2108249
"Average air consumption 6.2 cfm - Actual air consumption 25 cfm", (??) according to CP's website. All I know is it's never bogged running off of my old, oil-free 120 volt, 4HP DeVilbiss that's rated for 6.9 CFM @ 90 PSI. I run it with 30' or more of 3/8" line, no special high flow fittings or anything, and it's broken some pretty gnarly fasteners with no struggle at all. I wrench DIY, not pro, and I believe the DeVilbiss draws about 14 amps.
1919915
Yes there is constant heat all over and it gets really warm. I wear a plastic cap then put the hood on to keep it clean.
98371
You need atlest 5 CFM at 90psi you can have lower then 5 but doesn't perform at full potential.
692380
Like you I didn't care much for the OEM hood. I use a thin UV filter with a soft rubber collapsible hood. Each his own but it works good for me.
2253911
I'm not sure, this one says 1110 as well but maybe professional is different. I will half to look into that!! This one I'm not particularly impressed with as far as the heat source!
1197683
Hi Laura, when I bought it 6 years back it came with a hood. But be aware, that this hood works best at 28 mm and has nearly no function at 300 mm.
1945509
The hood includes the exhaust mechanism, filter and light fixture, and once you install it (under a cabinet or all of the way to the ceiling) you must purchase the necessary exhaust pipe to either take the exhaust straight thru the roof, or get a 90 degree elbow (and the necessary pipe) to bend it (in the attic) in order to take the exhaust to the (side) eve of the house. Exhausting to the eve of the house is more economical and reduces the cost/risk of cutting thru the roof and the potential water leak etc. The elbow and aluminum exhaust pipes that I purchased at Home Depot (very economical) do not have to be sealed since they fit into one another tightly. One thing that I noticed on my hood is that the light switch occasionally stick when I try to turn the light on. Although I have not done it, I am sure that a bit of WD40 sprayed on the side of the switch would do the job. Considering the cost of this product, it is an excellent value. The unit is very easy to install. We are retired and we would buy this item again. We have stainless steel appliances and this hood matches seamless. To impress family and friends there are other hoods that would do the job at higher costs. I suggest that you follow the installation instructions as far as the distance of the hood from the top of the stove. Too close to the top of the stove will impede your working room, too far from the top of the stove, will diminish its power to exhaust the heat properly. It was suggested to us, and we followed, to install the hood where the very bottom of the hood is in line with your eye brows. It works fine, as exhausting the heat/smoke and it gives us plenty of working room with the pots etc. I hope this info helps.....