Is the harder, semi rust resistant steel really worth the extra twenty dollars more, over the bk14(bush/game knife) Have the bk7 for large tasks.
853906
Yes it is, I have both, the 1095 carbon seems to attract rust just looking at it.
853907
I wear mine as a neck knife and it is subject high humidity aka sweat. I never get any rust so it is worth it for me. Will you miss the twenty dollars in a year? You will enjoy the additional quality for a long time. It's a great knive good luck.
853908
I own three 1095cv Beckers including the BK 14. They sharpen really easily. D2 is known to be more difficult to put an edge on it (once it's on, it's there for a while). If you have to maintain your knife in the field 1095cv is the better (and cheaper) option. Wet, damp conditions will give the D2 the advantage (and less maintenance-based on other D2 knives I have owned)
853909
I own both and personally prefer the coated BK14. The coating prevents rust and covers up any rough grind spots that the BK24's stonewashed surface does not. I don't know if they changed the coating somewhere along the line but mine has not scraped off with use; not to say the coating will never scrape, but I'm personally glad it's there.
1865875
I personally like the satin finish. You will be able to see the lines where the VG10 steel is laminated with the other steel. It's quite beautifully to see if you into that sort of thing. However, it's really up to the individual who's buying and what they're preferences are. If you are buying this knife for tactical purposes for yourself or someone in the Armed Forces, you should get the black one.
135766
The S&W; M&P; is the superior knife. It's more ergonomically designed and has better balance. Overall, the better choice.
1314648
For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths are not, however). They are great for digging small holes less than a foot down. For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths... » Read More For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths are not, however). They are great for digging small holes less than a foot down. « Show Less
1859885
The more expensive knife has a solid brass end cap, a more expensive wood handle and weighs about 3 ounces more. I love the knife, it will last a lifetime.
53935
The Randall RAT 4 is an excellent choice. Similar in price, I think a little less. Currently there is an Ontario version, which is decent, but Randall is the original designer. I also really like the KaBar Becker line. The BK 16 is very close in comparison and cheaper. The Beckers are easier to sharpen, however they have to be cared for to prevent corrosion. And your absolute cheapest, is gonna be a Mora. They can be had for $20ish. Or more depending on quality and sheath options. They are a good cheap blade. But very susceptible to rust. If you have more questions I am happy to answer as best as I can. These arent armchair opinions either. I own or have friends who own, and we use them in the woods.
1941258
Actually this knife is the largest fixed blade survival knife that I would carry. The BK 9 is definitely too heavy to carry on your belt for a long journey. But, I have walked 5 miles or more with this on my belt and I wasn't feeling like I wished I hadn't. I feel that It isn't too heavy or long to use on a decently long journey. That being said I think the BK 16 is a little lighter, but isn't as good for batoning or other tasks where the longer blade on the BK 7 is better suited, it does however have it's place also though. Take care and go ahead and get it or better yet, get both the BK 7 and 16 ! :) CDR Actually this knife is the largest fixed blade survival knife that I would carry. The BK 9 is definitely too heavy to carry on your belt for a long journey. But, I have walked 5 miles or more with this on my belt and I wasn't feeling like I wished I hadn't. I feel that It isn't too heavy or long to use on a decently long journey. That being said I think the BK 16 is a little lighter, but isn't as good for batoning or other tasks where the longer blade on the BK 7 is better suited, it does however have it's place also though. Take care and go ahead and get it or better yet, get both the BK 7... » Read More Actually this knife is the largest fixed blade survival knife that I would carry. The BK 9 is definitely too heavy to carry on your belt for a long journey. But, I have walked 5 miles or more with this on my belt and I wasn't feeling like I wished I hadn't. I feel that It isn't too heavy or long to use on a decently long journey. That being said I think the BK 16 is a little lighter, but isn't as good for batoning or other tasks where the longer blade on the BK 7 is better suited, it does however have it's place also though. Take care and go ahead and get it or better yet, get both the BK 7 and 16 ! :) CDR « Show Less
1399493
My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this helps you. My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this... » Read More My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this helps you. « Show Less
1537921
I would say they are very similar. Same handle materials & finish. I bought the BK22 Companion and the only difference is the blade shape & it is a little bit thicker & heavier. I hope this helps. Both knives I bought are great.
935751
The black SRK is SK5 steel which is a carbon steel easier to sharpen than stainless steel but won't stay as sharp will rust the one without the coating is San Mai III which is a higher quality stainless steel stay sharp longer won't rust as easily but harder to sharpen I'd go with San Mai III
407255
1075 is a bit softer. The edge will wear a bit quicker than 1095 but it is much easier to sharpen. It will also absorb shock a little better. It's a good steel for an all purpose knife that might be used for tasks that one might use a small axe for
1086393
fellow tnp'r. this is o1 tool steel not the sk5 i just bought this recently. i highly recommend it. i did a cold gun blue for rust protection and havent seen any issues. good edge retention and easy to hone. i am also a avid knife designer/maker/modifier. as far as general abuse goes, this knife is a safe bet for just about anything, just dont mess up the heat treat and be careful in extreme cold weather ( under freezing ).
2200552
I like the rat 1, great blade, get satin blade the black is paint & doesn't wear well . The handle is strong & comfortable .Razor sharp out of the box & I prefer the drop pt. blade shape. Kershaw knives are well made & sharp but I would choose the Rat.
1865878
I personally prefer the stainless blade. It doesn't take much to mess up the black covering and the knife looks ratty. But with the stainless it always looks good!
1309804
Much better than a Walmart machete(I've owned several of both), and a little better than any surplus machetes I've seen.In my opinion, Cold steel doesn't have the best machetes, but they're the best for the price.
1571800
this one will get patches of black rust specs as it is very high carbon, but only if used outside very often. The sheath on this one is far better, the cutting capability is far better, the look and feel will be better, this kukri is one centimeter thick and razor sharp, the other is a millimeter thin and dull, it's over all worth spending the money.
262721
The BK2 has a heavier blade than the Blackbird, making it more suited for heavy tasks such as chopping. The BK2's blade is also thicker than the Blackbird's, making the Blackbird more suited for fine tasks such as making feather sticks. The BK2 can be used to produce sparks from flint or chirt because the blade is carbon steel, and it's easier to sharpen in the field. The stainless steel blade of the Blackbird is lower maintenance and will hold it's edge longer, but may be more difficult to sharpen. The Blackbird comes with Micarta handles which are nicer than the black grivory handles on the BK2, and sheath that comes with the Blackbird; though generic and sloppy, is more versatile. I think the pros and cons of each knife make them more or less equall, so it boils down to personal preference. I chose the BK2 because I wanted the heavy work horse. Oh, there's also a bit of price difference. The BK2 is less expensive, the trade off for the cheaper sheath and handles, I suppose.