Here in Korea, instead of having table saw at house building site, the we often put the 7 1/4 inch circular saw on the lower side(upside down) of temporary work table. Ca you install 6" ado blade on 7 1/4" circular saw? If yes, how did it work? Thanks...
828118
No, a dado blade cannot be installed on a circular saw. It can only be installed on a table saw or radial arm saw.
782675
There is a nob that When tightened keeps the saw at what ever height you need it. If you were to loosen it you could probably do a drop cut.
1325632
You could bolt it to a work table if it was big enough and sturdy enough. You wouldn't want any danger of the table tipping over. I personally use it sitting on my front porch (concrete) and I stand on the ground so the saw is about 3 feet off the ground, which is about waist high for me. This is perfect for my needs. I like it not being bolted to anything so I can put it away when I'm not using it. I hope this answered your question. I love this saw. It has been a real time saver!
754756
Never tried - just curious, do you mean the tools that fit into the grooves built into the surface of the table ? The fence is pretty decent for this type of saw - it is not as tight (solid, steady) as a traditional saw like a Delta Contractor 10"
1623201
I have a Craftsman router table. Bought it at Xmas for $149. No complaint. This is just until I can build one on the table saw.For height adjustment, you have to reach down and unlock the motor, make coarse adjustment. Then make fine adjustment on top.For bit change, to avoid having to use 2 wrenches, I bought a Musclechuck. With this, I can change bit with 1 hex key, all above the table.
1474362
The fact is the fence, (either 40"or 50") has to be attached to the table! Sears didn't make a table top out of granite that I'm aware of. Is it just your extensions that are granite? If you have a steel/cast table, the actual table with the miter guide cut parallel to the blade hole. You're probably ok! If you can bolt to that it should be sufficient to hold the fence> I would just replace the granite extensions with the ones suggested in the manual with the saw! Good luck! A picture of your saw would be helpful! Terry Thanks for the lesson Cheryl! Granite was used!
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
518326
I'm not sure if it will fit the model table saw you're asking about or not, but I bought mine to be a zero clearance dado insert and it worked great. Only problem is obviously, if you use for a 3/4 inch dado cut for example, then it's no longer a zero clearance insert for any dado cut thinner than 3/4 inch. I was okay with that. I'm not making finish carpentry, just a beginner woodworker making projects as a hobby. I use mine on a Dewalt DW744.
1459770
You folks are referencing a different saw. This one does not have miter gauge slots on the table. If you're trying to get the blade parallel to the rip fence, you can just slightly move the rip fence when locking it in place, as in every table saw. Check your saw to verify the model number for better help.
1930522
By the way this is the best design of a real light weight, footprint when closed, setup/knock down work table I ever came across! To answer your question you could mount a chop or table saw to it because it has the built in bench clamp set up. You may have to mount your saw onto a board so it can be clamped down. I have had my Makita miter saw on this table as well as my wet saw....table is rock solid and stable enough to even hold me up at 180lbs. I have purchased other tables and this one is the best!
1756844
Short answer, it'll still work. It measures the difference between whatever surface you used as a reference and the surface you are measuring. So if you use the table saw deck as a reference surface, then stick the gauge to the blade, it doesn't matter which direction you tilt the blade it will still measure the angle of change from the deck reference. Hope this helps.
493472
You will have to remove the standard insert, the dado blade 'stack' will be too wide. If you want to use an insert it will have to vary for each Dado width you set up. I have never seen any advertisement for inserts of varying widths? Depending on the width of the material you wish to dado you can use your saw without one or make one from a suitable thickness material.
853461
Upward at teh front. This saw cuts like a typical wood cutting circular saw. Sounds goo in concept, and maybe it is if you are cutting slabs and utilizing the cutting paltform. I am using this saw to cut random though typically large, field stone. often the blade does not cut deep enough and I cut from both sides. I removed the platform and use it as an angle grinder, but with a diamond saw blade. The rotation provides the advantage of blowing the bulk of teh dust forward and away form the operator, but teh disadvantage is that when it kicks in the cut (remember I am often cutting several inches deep into odd shaped stone), it kick toward the operator, and boy does it kick. I get very bruised shins sometimes. The saw is very heavy, so this provides some stability, and I learned to get used to it and minimize how opten it kicks, but it still gets me once in a while. The saw is holding up nicley, under heavy use it trips a 20 amp breaker, I now use a 30 amp, but I think i would prefer the blade turned the other way for my useage. By the way, for cutting stoen or pavement, get a general purpose blade from Granite City Tool, their general purpose diamond blade is $70, cuts like crazy wet or dry ( i now only mostly cut wet with this saw, for faster cutting and minimal dust, started wit spraying from a hose as I cut, then bought a water feed adaptor also from Granite City) and the blade lasts very well.
1951680
No expertise here... I'm a woodworker. But I find the saw tight, sufficiently powered for the small blade and easy to use. My guess is that you may want to build a jig for exact positioning. Hope this is of some helpDLH
357385
I use it all the time with the circular saw and it works perfect... . I never had a problem like that... and I have use it a lot.
476852
This is mysterious. Raise the blade up as high as it will go and check with a square that you trust to see if the blade is truly perpendicular to the table. Make sure that the throat plate is not throwing off this check for square. If the blade is square to the table top, then you might try a run-out gauge on the saw's arbor. Excessive run-out is less likely in my opinion and probably wouldn't cause the uneven bases in any event. Finally, make sure you have a backer board behind your work piece.
305704
when cutting molding, the rule of thumb is you place the molding on the miter saw upside down (the wall of the miter saw serves as the actual wall on your room and the base of the miter saw is the ceiling). this is how the molding is cut. well, sometimes, it gets confusing trying to maintain that image of upside down, with the left end going to the right side when its ready to be nailed to the ceiling and same thing to the right end going to the left. this Kreg tool is supposed to allow you to cut the molding the way its oriented on the wall/ceiling, not upside down. the face plate of this tool slides in and out depending on the angle of your molding to be cut. i wasn't able to use this tool. i was cutting a 4/12 crown molding with my 10-inch blade miter saw. doesnt work. too tall for the 10-inch blade miter saw. waste of money on my part actually. will work with molding shorter than 4 1/2 inch. well, i've replaced my miter saw with a 12-inch blade one and sold my old 10-inch one. still havent used the Kreg tool. Why? all my crown molding work are finished. sorry, i'm of no help here but at least i presented you my situation and that could be a reference point wether or not you could benefit from this tool.