I understand the importance of the chain oil etc. Was wondering, since I am buying new, would first using Teflon Multi-use lubricant be wise? The Lubricant is available at Lowes
862588
The manufacturer states that any winter weight chain oil is fine but winter weight chain oil can be hard to find in some areas. Winter weight is pretty thin oil. I did some research and found that many tree cutters are using canola oil for chain oil. It is cheap, low viscosity, and is not petroleum based so it breaks down over time after it is slung from the chain. It has worked great for me so far.One other note: it takes about 60 seconds of constant running for the oil to begin lubricating the chain and bar so don't give up too soon on the oiler working properly.
862589
I have no experience with the product you identified. However, chain oil is designed to hang on to the bar and chain at the temperatures they operate at and provide cooling and cleaning to the clain. Also the issue is will the "wonder product" flow properly thru the saw pump at the right viscosity. The oil cleans the bar of saw dust as well a lubricating. I see no advantage in trying to "improve" on the process with a "wonder lubricant". I use chain saw bar oil, Husquavarna, and have had no problems. Remember in a chainsaw, oil is a consumable and disposable. Best Wishes
862590
I have no experience with the product you identified. However, chain oil is designed to hang on to the bar and chain at the temperatures they operate at and provide cooling and cleaning to the clain. Also the issue is will the "wonder product" flow properly thru the saw pump at the right viscosity. The oil cleans the bar of saw dust as well a lubricating. I see no advantage in trying to "improve" on the process with a "wonder lubricant". I use chain saw bar oil, Husquavarna, and have had no problems. Remember in a chainsaw, oil is a consumable and disposable. Best Wishes I have no experience with the product you identified. However, chain oil is designed to hang on to the bar and chain at the temperatures they operate at and provide cooling and cleaning to the clain. Also the issue is will the "wonder product" flow properly thru the saw pump at the right viscosity. The oil cleans the bar of saw dust as well a lubricating. I see no advantage in trying to "improve" on the process with a "wonder lubricant". I use chain saw bar oil, Husquavarna, and have had no problems. Remember in a chainsaw, oil is a consumable and disposable.... » Read More I have no experience with the product you identified. However, chain oil is designed to hang on to the bar and chain at the temperatures they operate at and provide cooling and cleaning to the clain. Also the issue is will the "wonder product" flow properly thru the saw pump at the right viscosity. The oil cleans the bar of saw dust as well a lubricating. I see no advantage in trying to "improve" on the process with a "wonder lubricant". I use chain saw bar oil, Husquavarna, and have had no problems. Remember in a chainsaw, oil is a consumable and disposable. Best Wishes « Show Less
862591
Who knows if Teflon oil is the best.. I use the regular oil. Seems to work out fine. I have been cutting with the same blade for over a year and still cuts fine. The owners manual suggests the type of oil and that is what I use
1252782
I use chain wax personally. You could use the wash first but make sure to use a lubricating agent on the chain afterward
405242
My husband says get a penetrating oil, WD40 is only a coating, he says a penetrating oil is used to loosen up frozen bolts. they sell it at home depot.He said that the lubricant the shop put on the multi -tool has probably dried up.He's a smart cookie, I'd take his advice :)
1353148
I use standard generic chain saw oil with no problem and I have never drained it out. I have never had any oil dripping as a result. Love my Makita!
1651379
Factory lube is fine although I read a review of this chain dissing the factory lube. As far a frequency more a religious thing. If shifts are clunky and the chain is making noise it's past time. Do a search for chain lubing frequency and prepare to be confused..
1905912
I'm not sure where your talking about, but the general idea is to put oil on one part of the chain and as it turns it distributes the oil. I would be more concerned if it doesn't look like the whole chain is getting oiled. At least the inside surface of the chain should be getting oiled.
1252785
I would use something like "Finish Line Citrus degreaser" to properly clean the chain and then re-lube the chain. I use the wash and shine just to wash the road grime off the bicycle.
1301840
The primary gear box , has a chain and the clutch, in a Harley anyway, all you really need to lubricate is the chain , the other effect is the cooling effect it has on the clutch. Check to see if it has friction modifiers, if so don't use it because your clutch plates may slip. if not feel free to use it in the trans and primary, it is good oil.
489564
I just checked my WORX chain saw. Much to my surprise it leaked over the last 6 months a significant amount of oil . I had it sitting in a big pan with handle up where any oil leaked would accumulate. This was the case with a 20 year old Craftsman electric saw also. So I guess this is normal. We have to live with it. I had not used the saw for at least 6 months.
323441
Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon for about $8 with free shipping. Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon... » Read More Lubrication ALWAYS helps when cutting or drilling or tapping... anywhere there is friction. It's not necessarily for cooling, but for easier cutting and extended blade life. (heat is NOT the only killer of blades... that just makes it easier to ruin one)But, I wouldn't use oil for a 1,300 rpm saw. I use a solid lubricant that is applied to the running blade. As the blade heats, the lubricant melts and spins to the outside cutting edge. Works very well and even keeps aluminum and other soft metals from clogging the blade.Several stick type lubricants are available here on Amazon for about $8 with free shipping. « Show Less
1480571
I need more info on HOW u were trying to fill it ??? I use a small funnel and pour slowly from plastic bottle if chain oil.WAS OIL LEAKING out as u tried to fill it? U should have it over newspaper when u try to fill, or over a catch pan. On mine I found that the OUTLET hole is too big and even tho I fill mine, it slings out oil off the blade and 15-20 mins into cutting its empty. Sooo I just put in an oz or two to lube the chain and use it for an hr or two, then wiped it down and put it away. I think they thought the chain bar against the oil out hole would regulate outflow, but it really doesn't. GOOD unit but the oil thing is really the only prob I have had... GOOD LUCK! I need more info on HOW u were trying to fill it ??? I use a small funnel and pour slowly from plastic bottle if chain oil.WAS OIL LEAKING out as u tried to fill it? U should have it over newspaper when u try to fill, or over a catch pan. On mine I found that the OUTLET hole is too big and even tho I fill mine, it slings out oil off the blade and 15-20 mins into cutting its empty. Sooo I just put in an oz or two to lube the chain and use it for an hr or two, then wiped it down and put it away. I think they thought the chain bar against the oil out hole would regulate outflow, but it... » Read More I need more info on HOW u were trying to fill it ??? I use a small funnel and pour slowly from plastic bottle if chain oil.WAS OIL LEAKING out as u tried to fill it? U should have it over newspaper when u try to fill, or over a catch pan. On mine I found that the OUTLET hole is too big and even tho I fill mine, it slings out oil off the blade and 15-20 mins into cutting its empty. Sooo I just put in an oz or two to lube the chain and use it for an hr or two, then wiped it down and put it away. I think they thought the chain bar against the oil out hole would regulate outflow, but it really doesn't. GOOD unit but the oil thing is really the only prob I have had... GOOD LUCK! « Show Less
1390515
I too believe this lubricant was designed with Harley in mind. I use it in my 2006 Softail, I transition with 9800 miles / and I can see a major difference... Quieter, much smoother... And no clank! And actually better gas mileage. The other fluid I transition too is the "Mobil 1" synthetic 2 cycle V -twin motor oil ... This stuff is Great too !! / motor runs 15-20 degrees cooler + my gas is lasting longerIt's a bit pricey, but well worth it. I hope this response helps you out. Safe travels.
357015
Hi, it has been a few months and i have not had the need to use the lube. Seems to be working like new and i use it quite often and i try to keep it clean. Sorry, i just read the blades part..i don't use the blades from this.
2045681
I purchased the Lifespan Fitness Silicone along with my manual treadmill. To date I haven't had to use any lubricant. I think the silicone lubricant would be better than WD 40 if you ever need a lubricant. My Phoenix treadmill runs just fine with no lubricant.
1819989
Get an inexpensive 30 weight oil. What you are oiling is the bar so the blade slides through it without sticking. Since the oil is thrown off, you do not want to spend a lot of money on it. They actually make a chain saw oil that is probably recycled oil but I have not been able to find any.
749375
Ah! I've been there - I tried using silicon lubricant along with some other short cuts and I wound up having to replace my belt with a new one. I learned that if it's not lubricated properly, the inner side of the belt becomes damaged and unusable. My belt became more and more frayed and it lost almost all of the friction ridges. This caused my motor to have to work too hard to get the belt going and it would overheat and then shut down in the middle of my work out. I now solely use the horizon Fitness silicon on my belt. It is much thicker than any other lubricant and extremely smooth. I run 20 - 25 miles per week so proper maintenance is the highest priority for me. When I damaged my belt, I had to go almost 2 weeks without my treadmill. Hope this helps! I highly recommend sticking to the Hor. Fit. Silicone lube. :-)
720207
Works great for me highly recommend by my gun club but you should look at the manual for your gun. .no need for oil after using CLPClean lube and protect