Is it an alloy steerer or is the steerer also carbon?
829240
Hi, the entire thing, steering tube and all is made of carbon. Also, make sure that the amount of 'rake' to the fork, i.e. the amount of bend in it, matches your existing one fairly closely, so that the wheel isn't too close to the down tube. Although this problem might be unique to my application--a mid-racer recumbent. Allen is right, you will need the expanding tube plug to go into the end of it. It inserts then expands as you tighten it with an allen wrench, to grip the inside of the steerer tube. Although I notice that I can't really reduce my steering play by tightning it, as you can with an all steel setup.
829241
The steerer is also carbon so you'll need a compressor cap/plug, bung, expander plug, or whatever the person you're talking to calls it.
829242
Hi, the entire thing, steering tube and all is made of carbon. Also, make sure that the amount of 'rake' to the fork, i.e. the amount of bend in it, matches your existing one fairly closely, so that the wheel isn't too close to the down tube. Although this problem might be unique to my application--a mid-racer recumbent.Allen is right, you will need the expanding tube plug to go into the end of it. It inserts then expands as you tighten it with an allen wrench, to grip the inside of the steerer tube. Although I notice that I can't really reduce my steering play by tightning it, as you can with an all steel setup. Hi, the entire thing, steering tube and all is made of carbon. Also, make sure that the amount of 'rake' to the fork, i.e. the amount of bend in it, matches your existing one fairly closely, so that the wheel isn't too close to the down tube. Although this problem might be unique to my application--a mid-racer recumbent.Allen is right, you will need the expanding tube plug to go into the end of it. It inserts then expands as you tighten it with an allen wrench, to grip the inside of the steerer tube. Although I notice that I can't really reduce my steering play by tightning it, as you... » Read More Hi, the entire thing, steering tube and all is made of carbon. Also, make sure that the amount of 'rake' to the fork, i.e. the amount of bend in it, matches your existing one fairly closely, so that the wheel isn't too close to the down tube. Although this problem might be unique to my application--a mid-racer recumbent.Allen is right, you will need the expanding tube plug to go into the end of it. It inserts then expands as you tighten it with an allen wrench, to grip the inside of the steerer tube. Although I notice that I can't really reduce my steering play by tightning it, as you can with an all steel setup. « Show Less
2192528
I believe it is non-magnetic and looks like brushed aluminum. The nuts and bolts are magnetic so I expect they are cad plated steel or plain steel
631986
No, the upper plate that holds the gears is chrome plated, it is not stainless, but it does appear to be good quality. The handles appear to be stainless. Not sure about the cutting mechansim.
440549
It is aluminum (aluminium, if you speak/spell British English). My mount still going strong on my No 4. Mk 1.
1640246
The entire machine is solid stainless steel, including the solid SS Auger which is held in place by a very tough Nylon bushing. Ooops, aside for one bolt (not part of the grinder itself) which goes through the wood handle holding it to the SS Arm is basic cadmium plated steel.
1099263
No, it is aluminum. When I bought mine it said in the description that it was carbon fiber but it definitely is not.
2071100
I haven't but I no longer use it, after I stripped a pedal screw with it. In my opinion the tool is not accurate and the scale is not precise enough if are going to work on carbon frame. The are better torque ranches for not much more on amazon.
496555
Yes it is. Nice low carbon blade that is stainless steel like and it holds the edge so far.
1974037
I bought one a few years ago that stop working shortly after I bought it. I took it apart and found a bunch of what appeared to be carbon pieces. I replaced Them With A Steel Bolt And It HAs worked For Two Years now.
353953
The shaft (drive gear) is carbon steel with chrome plating, the 3-prong fork is made of nickel plated carbon steel, the slicer loop blade is made of high quality stainless steel, and the coring/slicing blade is constructed of stainless steel. All are easy to keep spotless clean by swishing in hot soapy water and rinsing well under hot water.
460165
The wheel spokes & horn button are chrome. Wood is plain finish. The rim inside the wood front & back is also chrome & gets hot with the sun shining on it. I would have preferred a larger diameter & may change it in the future. All in all, it's a good product.
986029
only the driver is graphite. even the 3 wood and hybrids are steel! I wish i had known this prior to purchase
1436787
I do not know if it is solid or an alloy; however, it is working as advertised on my roof, to eliminate moss growth.
880014
It is made from 1055 high carbon. The handle removes and is replaced easily.
1148848
The material in the handle is aluminum, it's not a high end carbon paddle or anything like that.
1971563
It is definitely Aluminium, the magnet doesn't lie. I went back to open sights so if you want to try it out a little cheaper I just listed the one I bought for $80 on amazon.
364203
carbon but its coated in something I sanded it off the back of the blade to better strike ferro rods or use flint on it. the ferro striker on the pommel doesn't work well at all