I am looking for an axe/hatchet to split pieces of wood for kindling, would this be a good one if not can you suggest which? Thanks!!
1009382
It depends on the size of the wood you're starting with as it might be an overkill and a smaller Fiskar axe could do the job. If you are splitting pieces larger than 6-inches thick its an excellent choice. My 11 eleven year old grandson, who is a great camper, says "Pa, this is the best piece of camping equipment you ever bought."
1009383
Technically this axe isn't a splitter, it's a chopping axe. Get the Fiskers splitter.
1009384
If the pieces of wood were greater than 6' in diameter (or width if they're triangular) i would go with the X27. Smaller wood would be fine with this axe but up to about 2" only. If the wood is smaller than 2" and not too knotty, then I would look into a knife for wood processing via that method; I use a Spyderco Schempp Rock for "batoning".
1009385
I would pass. Way to much hand shock. With that said I get no hand shock with the super splitter fiskars axe.
870476
As nice as this little unit is---it is still a "little" unit and you will probably find it won't work well for really hard wood (dogwood is also a surprisingly hard wood). It is best for doing a lot of cutting of softer wood AND if they are attached to the tree--that is if you try to hold a branch and cut it in the middle you will find that the saw can't "bite" into it. think of it as a small chain saw.
1542640
For me the Ontario would be best.... The edge is pretty bad though and you would need a good sharpener. (spyderco sharp maker w diamond extra) The kukri in my opinion is best for small tree and branches. The blade being more forward gives you great power to blast through but I found it lacking on flimsy twigs and bamboo.... But my okc Machete (12") did me just right.
699566
I have had terrible luck with the pocket axes (made outside of Sweden for an ungodly amount of money). In fact I have had better luck with cheap "bushknives" doing baton work than I have had with a pocket axe. I have an aunt who lives in the rockies of Idaho, and we've given up on all but a kellam puukku for camping with one of these to do all that we ask. If you carry anything less than a 2.5 lb forester's/youth's axe, this is the way to go. Or just give up on the axe and get a good baton ready knife at a 3mm thick blade or more. Mora knives can do that job.
1744197
You have to get a specialized cover for splitting axes. Google the exact description of your particular axe; go to that webpage and find the corresponding blade cover for that item. Once you know if it exists; then it is possible that amazon sells it.
1488345
No, but that is not necessary for a knife of this type. If you plan on using it as a knife and not a hatchet (i.e. batoning) this knife will do everything you need. If you need to split wood buy and axe or hatchet.
1611164
The knife works great depending on your skill level would i split logs with it no way it feather strips well Good for carving skinning small game and many other small chores full tang is allways better but mora is well known for reliability i prefer use of an axe over a knife anyday for shelter and fire wood building a small hatchet and my mora and the trail ahead
977176
Yes, but probably not on all of them. I put a wicked edge on my Gerber Parang and also on one of my smaller inexpensive hatchets... but if it is too large or thick, probably not a good idea. But Hey.... what do I know? I use a stone on my axe and large hatchet, but I'll bet it would work.** please see my comment **I wouldn't use anything particularly large or heavy if you want this tool to last. No replacement elements available from Smiths.
1353682
Guy,What happens is you have a throttle that once you place a piece on the rail, moves slowly, with more force pushing the wood toward a steel triangle that splits the wood. I use the slow speed for larger pieces or pieces with knots. The throttle can also be moved to a higher speed which I use to split smaller, softer pieces.This works very well, and while if you have a larger piece you will need to take off bits and smaller hunks before it will split, I have yet to meet a piece of wood that can beat it!Good luck!Matt
439629
I'd stick to hardwoods, hickory preferred. You aren't going to get much better than the handle on it. As far as shortening it,I wouldn't see a problem just cut it with as fine tooth of saw blade as possible to avoid splitting.
1541355
I believe it's better, smaller and more cost effective than fat wood. Just break off a cube lean it on some kindling and light the little cube...hold match there for 15 seconds...it will take it from there. I then build another piece of kindling and start adding dry split wood but always leaning it in such a way that plenty of Oxygen can find it way easily. Hope it works for you as it certainly does for me.
1861644
The notch is for a couple of things 1 if you have a pot on a fire with a wire handle it can be used to lift the pot 2 it can be used to bend wire 3 it can be used to score or notch wood or bone. Ive owned mine for going on two years and have used it a lot in the outdoors to split and process wood with no issues. It is no a pry bar and like any knife will snap if abused in that manor. Go to youtube and check out Nutnfancy chanel for his review of this knife to learn all about it.
1924029
I have never really timed it, but it is as fast as I would want it to be. It is a joy to split wood with it. I hesitated to buy an electric wood splitter, but I was wrong. No gasoline engine to mess with and it has split everything I have tried except some 12"-14" elm pieces. I have tried splitting them with a maul, and you can drive a wedge all the way through them without them coming apart, so I am not going to blame the splitter. I will just quit messing with elm logs. I highly recommend this splitter.
232780
Hard woods are mostly what I have and most is easily split. Once in a while I have to shift the log to try another spot to split On occasion I have a very knotty or large (larger than recommended) diameter or heavily branched piece that does not split on the first try or two. I notch them about 3 inches deep with a chain saw & then they split too. The only pieces I have not been able to split are the rooty stump parts of hard wood. I like this splitter. I would buy it again. I go through about 3 cords a year which I cut, split & stack myself.
1402325
I'd look more toward the 28" chopping axe for that. The sides of the splitting axe protrude enough that they could cause the blade to rotate while penetrating the wood. That being said, I have not tied it for chopping either. I use the X15 chopping axe for that and it is strapped to my ATV. The overall quality of these axes is amazing and you won't be disappointed with them.
1077110
if you had a hatchet saw it eats battery's fast, well this does to depending on cutting disc or sanding disc. etc... and how hard you press 5-10 minutes on battery. i'd suggest you get the fuel version , i got the other fuel items and they are considerable better then the regular ones. I was going to buy the fuel grinder but every where was out so i got this one. it does come in handy but does not last long.
551568
It's not a tree felling axe. It works well for trapping. I use it to chop holes in the ice, cut stakes, drive stakes. If you want to be a lumber jack it's probably not for you.