Is it worth it? A question for those that are new to the concept of color/display correction, yet have hobbies centered around digital media &amp; viewing
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Are you going to print your images? Are you going to sell your images or are you going to send them to others? Then,yes, it is totally worth it. I used "spyder" products till I switched over to Xrite. I haven't looked back. Great product.
732742
I don't really do photographic work. It is far superior to the old TN screen it replaced. Without putting an IPS display next to it I couldn't make a decent comparison. Now that Dell is running sales on their 24" 4K IPS display I'd take a closer look at that. If you do get this 28" display keep fluorescent lights away from it. Fluorescent flicker plus 30Hz refresh = ugh.
1646897
Well, I can't give a textbook definition. But when buying an LCD or plasma, I would go by the "Native" or "Static" contrast ratio. Dynamic is an inflated number. I had to learn the hard way. Bought 32" Sammy LCD and thought that 7000:1 "Dynamic" contrast ratio meant something. End up finding out the "Static" or "Native" was actually 1500:1. A lot of companies won't even list the true number. 30,000:1 is pretty high. Visually I don't know how it stacks up to 20,000:1 though. I would think that 33% more would be better and noticeable. I hope so since my 42PZ85U is arriving on the 10th. Higher is always better, if you ask me. I hate it when blacks look like charcoal. You will definitely notice it with LCD's. And I really hate that backlight and motion-blur. LCD makes for great computer monitors. But I have yet to see a high-end LCD hold a candle to even a mid-range plasma. LCD is more popular right now so people will buy into the hype. I did. Hope this helped a little.
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What's the good effect? Is there an advantage in the image or resolution improvement?
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Juliee, there are MANY picture and audio factors that you can adjust to achieve your own most personally satisfying viewing experience--I'd estimate a total of well over two dozen (without going into the menu to actually count). I was fully satisfied with the range of options. --Winston
1816001
Just go for it if you have the budget. It will dramatically change your picture quality.
121914
I use the color checker for everything from macro ring lights. Studio lighting, etc and combinations of any two sources. There's no way of knowing accurate colors otherwise. I see huge differences - to me.
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you must be fairly new to editing. i recommend understanding (google) color calibration (on your equipment), and color correction (in your images/video). that being said, i have installed the Adobe CS6 Master Collection and primarily edit photographs in Photoshop. i'm happy to report this laptop handles all Photoshop tasks very decently, although much slower than what i'm accustomed to on my desktop. i have not done any editing using Premier Pro but i expect about the same. built with a core2duo processor, which, although powerful in it's own right (i can play blurays and bluray rips [35-40mbps video @1080p] on this laptop like a breeze), it's still relying on Intel 4000 graphics. this notebook does not have a dedicated graphics card and has 4Gb of RAM. all that being said, this laptop is an ideal balance between price vs. performance. as a photo editor, i need no more for portable photo editing. i have a Colormunki Photo that i still haven't used to calibrate my display but i'm sure i'll have no problem creating a custom profile on this laptop for on-the-go editing when proper color is also critical. if you live in the US, and have some way of getting to a Fry's Electronics, i'd wait until they have this model on special. i got mine for $269.99 (+ Cali tax) in October 2012..
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If you did read my review, the colors are good AFTER you calibrate the monitor properly with proper equipment. Ofcourse the older TN panel can not match the IPS panels in colors, but the IPS panels are all currently (the affordable ones anyway) 60Hz. My previous monitor was an IPS monitor and after calibrating this properly i prefer this BenQ, but i think mostly because its bigger. So when you get your monitor, the colors are off, after calibration, theyre great. However do some research, maybe you dont really need a 120Hz panel and there might be something else out there for you, but im more than happy with mine. Mine: Gamut coverage 97.7% sRBG Gamut volume 115.2% sRBG The results are great.
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How are the graphics for Photoshop work. I'm looking for true color and tone. Does the display have a wide viewing area that stays relatively the same?M Chelini
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I second Mithun: "The tv has a high gloss to it. So you will get reflection. Even on a matte screen, but glossy is worse. Now, if you block out some of that light - it's worth it. The TV will truly shine at night. The contrast and color saturation is awesome:
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Hey Donald, I just replied to you on another one of these discussions and will do likewise on this one. Regarding the viewing angle, do any other 8 series owners think it... well... sucks? If I move so much as 5 degrees one way or another, the colors (particularly the blacks) start to fade. Wondering if this is one of the concessions for the 8 series' slim profile.
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My understanding is the same as D4Fs - it calibrates the colors on the monitor. I also have a Mac and before I got colormunki I tried calibrating the monitor in preferences - difficult to do accurately and a PIA! Colormunki does all the work for you - plan on 10 minutes of time. Spend the extra few bucks for the one with ambient light monitoring.
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Use "Movie" mode, although it is darker than the others it gives you the best results in a dark room and allows for the quickest adjustment to proper calibration. These are my settings for my PS3/Blu Ray player (my HD Cable is slightly brighter) Oh and I strongly recommend you SHUT OFF Auto Motion Plus, it causes a soap opera effect and creates the illusion the picture is moving faster than normal. Color Temp: Warm 2 Backlight:7-10 depending on your preference Brightness:47 Contrast:95 Color:45 Sharpness:5 Tint:G49/R51 White Balance Settings: Red Offset: 28 Green Offset: 25 Blue Offset: 16 Red Gain: 25 Green Gain: 25 Blue Gain: 21 I like these settings and I got them from a credible source. Ultimately it is up to the viewer, and everyone has different preferences. I would advise a lower backlight setting for a few reasons. It is set high at the factory so the TV looks better next to it's competitors in store, and second it consumes more power and will shorten your TV's life span (will burn out faster). Play around with these settings and find what works for you. Hope this helps.
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I'll be curious to learn more about what Samsung is calling "Precision Dimming" on the c8000 (but not on the c7000 or c9000). It could be they've come up with a unique technology to do local dimming in a thinner set, or it could be a gimmick to try to cover up that they've abandoned a better technology to achieve thinner sets. But to me the decider is how much you want 3D. Personally I wouldn't want to spend 3 grand on a TV and not have it include the latest future technology. Is 3D all it's going to be? No, certainly not yet. But is there anybody who bought an expensive large monitor right before HD came around happy? Or somebody who bought 720p just before 1080p came around? Unless you're in a position to comfortably buy another $3000 Tv in two or three years, I'd want to go with 3D now that it's an option.
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In essence, yes. You might have to tweak around with color settings until you get some good preset. Ones that come with the monitor suck arse. The monitor itself is used for datasheet viewing and I have no problems with it. It is a very good monitor and I plan on buying another one when my pocket allows it.
1919240
Yes, I have, that's why I bought it. A few things. There aren't any DVI ports so you'll have to connect either RGB or HDMI. My video card only has DVI ports so I had to get a DVI-HDMI connector. Also, I have played with the adjustments a lot. My nvidia settings report the native resolution being 1920x1080, but it's actually 1366x768. Anything higher or lower and the text looks really crappy, blurry and whatnot. This is when you connect it via HDMI. To tell you the truth, it's not too bad, I have only had it a couple of weeks as well and I am still adjusting it. Haier's website is no help though.