Is there any difference in how easy these three knives are to sharpen or put an edge on ? Also is there any difference you have noticed in how well these knives hold an edge and how they performe carveing or wood working . The three knives I mean are the robust , the comapoin , and the compaion heavy duty .Thank You! Is there any difference in how easy these three knives are to sharpen or put an edge on ? Also is there any difference you have noticed in how well these knives hold an edge and how they performe... » Read More Is there any difference in how easy these three knives are to sharpen or put an edge on ? Also is there any difference you have noticed in how well these knives hold an edge and how they performe carveing or wood working . The three knives I mean are the robust , the comapoin , and the compaion heavy duty .Thank You! « Show Less
1019197
I have a bunch of Mora knives, including the Companion and the Companion HD... I do not own a Robust, but I doubt that the blade material is any different. Very easy to sharpen, they hold an edge beautifully. You can't go wrong. Get the heavier blade if you will be splitting wood with it.
1019198
I have the companion heavy duty and it is great. it was very sharp I purchase it and does not dull very easily. I've chopped wood with it and and all I have to do is run across my stone a few times and it's as sharp as it was when I bought it. a friend of mine has the companion and it's not much different from the heavy duty. overall great knife.
1019199
Doesn't seem to be much difference in any of those respects. They are all great knives. For the price they are actually exceptional. I had purchased three to see in person, keep the one i liked best and gift the other two. I ended up choose the color I liked bestt..... That's what it came down to, because they were all great knives.
1019200
I have had my mora companion heavy duty for about 3 months now and it has quickly become my favorite knife. I take into the woods everyday and it has never failed me.The Scandinavian grind is very easy to sharpen and holds an edge extremely well. From the softest of pine to hardwoods such as hickory this knife has completed every task I have given it and preformed very well. I definently reccomend this to anyone for bushcraft, camping or any of your nature sports. Go with the robust or companion heavy duty well worth the extra 6-8 bucks.
1019201
I have a few companions both stainless and carbon and a heavy duty carbon. I prefer the carbon steels, easy to sharpen and take a great edge. I use wet stones to sharpen them. They are great for fine wood work. The stainless require less maintenance. I have not batoned any wood with them because I have other knives for that.... over all great bushcraft knife
1019202
All are excellent, I recomend the carbon steel over the stainless version for all mora knives. And all perform equally as good in my opinion and all scandi grind knives are all relitivly easy to sharpen.
1019203
Stainless is a little bit harder to return an edge too; carbon a little easier and requires a little more maintenance....in general terms. The knives come razor sharp. Little if any difference between the three you mentioned, but I would go with a heavier blade. If you are looking for wood working type knives, look at some of Mora's more traditiional knives intented for that purpose. The Companion et al, in my mind, are intended for backwoods.
1019204
I purchased the companion heavy duty and am very pleased with it. It arrived with a sharp edge and after a weeks worth of slicing meat, I finally had to sharpen it. Takes a edge quickly. Very good knife. Light but solid.
935754
They both have good steel. The first uses VG-1 steel which has a very hard core, the second uses AUS8A which is very slightly less hard. Pick the one in your price range, with the color you like. One caveat many black blades get marred with use and the inner steel shows through.
314749
First of all there ar two different sets one has a black handle and the more expensive one is all steel, both are very good and stay very sharp, on the box it does not show the two 3" paring knife, or plastic juice extractors, be careful these knifes can cut through frozen meat.
57470
You might check the Mora website for more information, but the "red" handle knife has a carbon blade and it has more taper in the blade. The "blue" is stainless steel. The carbon blade will give you more flex and easier to sharpen, but is prone to rust if you don't clean it after you use it. The stainless steel blade is harder and will hold an edge longer, and will not rust. It kinda depends on what you want or need in a knife. I really llove my "Moras" and have several. They are very good quality and relitively inexpensive. Buy one of each and see which you prefer. Good hunting!! You might check the Mora website for more information, but the "red" handle knife has a carbon blade and it has more taper in the blade. The "blue" is stainless steel. The carbon blade will give you more flex and easier to sharpen, but is prone to rust if you don't clean it after you use it. The stainless steel blade is harder and will hold an edge longer, and will not rust. It kinda depends on what you want or need in a knife. I really llove my "Moras" and have several. They are very good quality and relitively inexpensive. Buy one of each and see which you... » Read More You might check the Mora website for more information, but the "red" handle knife has a carbon blade and it has more taper in the blade. The "blue" is stainless steel. The carbon blade will give you more flex and easier to sharpen, but is prone to rust if you don't clean it after you use it. The stainless steel blade is harder and will hold an edge longer, and will not rust. It kinda depends on what you want or need in a knife. I really llove my "Moras" and have several. They are very good quality and relitively inexpensive. Buy one of each and see which you prefer. Good hunting!! « Show Less
59921
It relates to the size of the knife, I have a #8 and it is a GREAT knife! Go with carbon steel as it will take and hold an edge much better than stainless.These knives are based on what was called penny knives and were a trade knife in the 1800's. Probably the first lock blade pocket knife made.
1571799
Yep, definitely get the GK or GKP if you can afford it. Either is far superior to any of Cold Steel's stamped metal blades, like the RK. Sure the less expensive blades have the protective coating, but once it wears off through sharpening and use, it is just as susceptible to corrosion if not more so. The GK and GKP are monster blades, light and durable, and if properly maintained either will outlive you.
2216827
i suggest using the angle guide since you are new to sharpening follow directions that came with stone they are helpfull for beginners it takes time to learn how to but u must keep the same angle all the way tru that why i suggest using angle guide the corse s for fourm rough edges but you shoul feel it getting shaprer on course then work down to me then fine this can take a long time if knife is dull but once u get a goodege on kinife it takes lot less time
605311
I prefer the Heavy Duty MG because the handle on the robust is thicker than I need it to be. No difference in blade thickness or performance at all. I want to be able to have a good grip on the knife when in use.
883051
All three of these are stainless steels. To keep things simple, the harder the steel the harder it will be to sharpen, the softer the steel the more often it will need to be sharpened. 440HC and 8CR13MoV are approximately equivalent higher carbon SS, with the 8CR being from China. They will dull faster than S30V but are easier to sharpen. S30V is, being harder and holding an edge better, considered a better choice for knife blades. The softer steels are not bad choices however; they may dull faster but are relatively easy to sharpen, and that's what you get in return for a lower price point for the knives.
1831408
I love this knife! The 440C steel is a great durable steel that holds an edge real well; just don't let it get dull or it's a chore to regain that same edge from the manufacturer. The handle is a great non slip handle that feels nice in your hand. I haven't noticed any defects with scratching of the handle with use. This has become my favorite knife so I bought another for a friend. Mine has gimping on the back, but the second one I ordered did not have it so make sure yours does if you like that character and usefulness.
89322
J.A. Henckels is one of the best knifes you can buy. The set I bought has a fine serrated edge which I prefer smooth edge. I haven't had any problems with them at all. The hone I bought with them keeps the edges sharp.
1045
The two paring knives are straight edge, two large knives are straight edge, and one big knife is serrated. I really like this set of knives, they cut well and are easy to use. Were heavier than I expected, and have not had any trouble with rusting that some people talked about in the reviews. Great set for the price.
1314648
For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths are not, however). They are great for digging small holes less than a foot down. For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths... » Read More For durability, yes this is the one. I suspect the other, cheaper ones are lighter, but this one is real mil-spec and is not phased by rocks or roots. I think I would have a hard time breaking this if I tried. After all the regular abuse I have put it through this season, the finish is completly worn off the bottom third of the blade, but there are no gauges in the surface or chips in the edge. It does rust were the metal is bare, so keep it dry and oiled.BTW, I highly recomend a hori hori garden knife for metal detecting. Most of the ones with wood handles are of decent quality(the sheaths are not, however). They are great for digging small holes less than a foot down. « Show Less
459956
For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its such a small blade I would only get the serrated version and leave a plane edge to a large blade. For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its... » Read More For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its such a small blade I would only get the serrated version and leave a plane edge to a large blade. « Show Less
346307
Most cutlery stainless steels have a carbon content. High carbon stainless should hold an edge longer than others with less carbon. Those high carbon stainless steels are more expensive and harder to form/grind than lower carbon, but are tougher steels when hardened. The Pure Komachis that I have are holding their edge just fine. I liike the ergonomics and light weight of the tools. Bear in mind that "high carbon" is a relative and not exact description. There is a lot of leeway.
939237
Heavy blade is easy enough to sharpen and stays sharp. Handles are tough. Its kind of big but it will take a beating. Not sure as I use it in the kitchen. If I wanted an outdoor survival style knife Id spend a bit more and go with a U.S. made k-bar style. Just my 2 cents. Good luck Ron
1054070
I'd have to agree with these other two respondents. I don't have my knife with me here, but I would venture to say that it tapers down less than a USMC knife, HOWEVER it is also a thinner blade overall, so I would venture to guess that the two are about the same thickness and strength. I doubt either would ever break, except under the most extreme abuse. These are strong knives and will serve you well.If you need the ultimate in tip strength, a tanto design is probably the best bet. I have seen a few non-tantos with particularly strong tips, though.