I used 42 cells and made one panel, the panel voltage is about 22 volts , when i connect the system with the controller to charge the battery the system works OK , but the diode becomes very hot that is so difficult to touch.... any explanation or reasons to resolve, I used 42 cells and made one panel, the panel voltage is about 22 volts , when i connect the system with the controller to charge the battery the system works OK , but the diode becomes very hot... » Read More I used 42 cells and made one panel, the panel voltage is about 22 volts , when i connect the system with the controller to charge the battery the system works OK , but the diode becomes very hot that is so difficult to touch.... any explanation or reasons to resolve, « Show Less
1000762
Maybe too much current. measure it and compare it to diode specks check to make sure the diode isn't shorted.
1000763
How big was the diod it sounds like it's to small for the power your panel is making
1000764
the controller prevents reverse polarity. remove the diode it does not do anything
1000765
you got too much voltage flowing.batterry need somewhere around 14 to 16 volts.
1000766
Can you use a diode with more amps power, that way it will work better 20 amps
852803
ohm's law says 8.333333 etc. But most 12 volt solar panels are actually operating at a higher voltage than 12 because of the need to charge a 12v system you need a higher voltage my charge controller doesn't really start till 14.4, I'm going with the average 5.0-5.5 weather, wiring distance, number of connections can change the number. since my smaller charge controller is 30 amp. I would stay at 5 panels max. with a hefty diverter load. and if you have multiple panels how you wire them(parallel or in series) can be a big difference too.
765122
Hi -- I am an electrical engineer and I use this panel to keep the three full size 12V deep cycle batteries wired in parallel on my camper charged. It does a really good job and I do not use a charge controller. I mount the solar panel vertically facing south so that in the summer when the sun is high in the sky and the temps are warm it receives less solar input, but in the winter the sun angle is low and I get relatively more charge and any excess battery heating will be less of a concern. The panel seems to be very good quality and has held up fine outside in Park City UT for over 9 months. The current from the panel in full sun should nominally be 5w/12v = .42 amps, which may be a little high for trickle charging a small motorcycle battery. Check for your battery specs on line. By mounting the solar panel vertically it will generate less current in the summer and avoid overheating. You can also probably mask the panel with tape to reduce output if needed. Also, I don't think charge controllers are too expensive for this size panel so that is an option. Hope this helps. ---Dan in Park City UT
1581549
I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your... » Read More I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. « Show Less
148161
Of course friend, the panel is high efficiency, full sun generates 22 volts, you need a charge controller 12 Volt so you do not overload the system, it will keep you charged and when the battery is charged, disconnect, which prevents damage to your batteries!
2096499
get some one to read for you or do this the frist wire is + on the left next to that is - from your solar panels put 5 to 7 ,6 amp diodes between them and the + side of the controler the next to wires are to your batterys + then - I have this model it works ok this way but mine would not run the progeramed way make shere the diodes have the white line going at the controler this way you want lose volts at night recomened buying a nicer modle later on.
1260128
I would always use a fuse in case the diode should fail in the panel or failure of your battery charging circuit/batteries. I've melted plenty of wires to know the value of a fuse. I also need to practice more of what i preach :)
1032669
Due to the compact design and relatively high charging current, batteries can become toasty hot _if_ the BCG34HRE missed termination signal (negative dV/dt) - especially with the charger cover closed. I did an experiment by charging four nearly full Rayovac 4.0 Hybrid AA cells together (this is to force the worst-case scenario where all batteries are being over-charged), and measured the cell temperature with an infrared thermometer. The highest temperature recorded was 62 degree C, which is too hot to hold for most people, but not high enough to cause a meltdown. Note that this will NOT happen if you recharge partially exhausted cells (because then the charger can terminate correctly by detecting negative dV/dt). But to be safe, I recommend charging with the cover open or removed.
1955408
I have five 100 watt panels now, wired together with MC4 split connectors and running 25 feet to my charge controller. My panels have a working voltage of 18.5V. That gives me 5.5 amp per panel in direct sun. In total I get 27 - 28 amps on a clear day. I have no problem with voltage drop but I am now max'd out on my 30 amp charge controller and the 10 guage wire. If you have a larger system than that you will need heavier wire, unless your panels operate at a higher voltage, wich would lower your amps. As long as you are under 30 amp this wire works great. I hope this helps.Dan
1293259
A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more specific A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more... » Read More A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more specific « Show Less
1859499
I have one installed in a metal box on the roof. It has already been down to -10 F and probably to 100 F. That said, you may want to look at a MPPT charger. It seems you never get enough power out of a solar panel and the MPPT charger can get up to 30% more power to the battery / load. Its because a solar panel is a constant current device. The current is a function of how much light is hitting the solar panel and with a PWM charger you are pulling the voltage down to the battery voltage instead of allowing it to work at about 19 volts, which is the maximum power point for most 12 volt panes. I have one installed in a metal box on the roof. It has already been down to -10 F and probably to 100 F. That said, you may want to look at a MPPT charger. It seems you never get enough power out of a solar panel and the MPPT charger can get up to 30% more power to the battery / load. Its because a solar panel is a constant current device. The current is a function of how much light is hitting the solar panel and with a PWM charger you are pulling the voltage down to the battery voltage instead of allowing it to work at about 19 volts, which is the maximum power point for most 12 volt panes.
2224662
You need to put them in parallel Each panel added in parallel adds its amp rating to the system Each added in series adds its volt rating to the system For example two panels in parallel with 9 amp rating will make 18 amps and 18.5 mmp In series it produce double voltage but only 9 amps. Unless you use a mppt charge controller. Connecting these two panels in series will also work but you would be just as well off with only one panel
1128140
I am not sure, but it looks like your battery is a 14 Volt battery, then you should use 14 Volt battery, The Voltage is the most critical issue here.
1385397
lets say your battery is at 11v and a high sunlight charge from the panel pushes in 13~14v, the read on the battery will show a "soft" 12v. the shade comes in and the battery goes back to 11v. Next time you see it, be amazed to see how many amps your controller cranked up.
830728
It's rated at 20amp. Each of these panels are rated at 5.7amps. It should handle 2 panels, perhaps 3. I would think 4 panels would begin to limit the amperage. You can also use multiple charge controllers rather than trying to attach a larger array of panels to a single controller.
1643692
Nah, it is just drawing the amprage needed to charge. It shouldn't get much hotter than that... If it starts to Burn to the touch there may be a defect in the product. But hot to the touch just don't lay on it for long periods of time or anything.
933676
Because the voltage is 40 volts, you need to buy a voltage controller that accepts input for 24 volt or 12 volt. and the output for the battery will be 24 or 12 volt. The voltage controller will automatically detect the input voltage of the solar panel and will automatically detect the battery voltage. I have purchased two of these items on amazon. However, One seller was in Shanghai and the other in Hong Kong. you can get 30 watt or 60 watt. Blue Solar was the name of one of them. I did get both delivered after a while.