i assume this will not work if i am not using a flange? in other words can i secure this to the toilet horn and drop into drain line for a tight seal?
1008163
You need a flange (or at least bolts) to keep the toilet from tipping and/or moving. So, while you could use this the way you suggest, and it would be effective, I wouldn't recommend doing so. If the toilet wiggled around over time, eventually the seals would erode and leak, which is what eventually happens to wax rings when they dry out or get too old.
1008164
I agree with Single Male, it should work if you have some way to install bolts to your floor to secure the toilet down tight. Otherwise the toilet will rock and leak.
1892804
Yes. It is, for all intents and purposes, a standard toilet flange, just with the added capability of fitting to a cast iron drain and properly sealing.
1809173
I agree with Minos. My drain is flush with the tub and is just a big giant hole that allows everything to go down it (like this http://pix.soundwag.com/web/drain.jpg). This sits right on top. There is a slight curve to this, and it sits curve side up. If you have the type of drain that also acts as the stopper and sticks up into the tub (like this http://s2.hubimg.com/u/5464035_f248.jpg), this will not work on that.
300116
My advice is to use a wax ring, not the green foam ring for this toilet. The foam ring seems to need more space, even when compressed. My flange is raised off the floor by about 3/4 inch, and after installing the drain piece, it interfered with the bottom of the toilet. You will need two sets of bolts. I believe the toilet came with one set, but some wax rings come with bolts. I used a jumbo wax ring. Just make sure the wax is over 70 degrees before installing.
1772466
This seals the drain so instead of just filling up the sink it will build pressure until the clog opens.I used it after using "Drain Care". It worked for me.
509487
I would suspect it would leak, as the seals on the drain tap and valve, and on the hose connectors, are probably not designed to cope with the higher pressure.
2270304
I don't think it would work. The pop up part of the drain would have to be removed. The cylinder design of this catcher which goes into the drain is about an inch in length.
2228862
Probably only with DIFFICULTY. My plug wouldn't stay up, SO I had removed it completely LONG ago. I had unobstructed drain opening to work with. Suggest you phone HORN PLUMBING, my supplier, at 417-256-5191; ask them, staff knowledgeable and VERY HELPFUL.
563689
I've done that. I haven't had any problem w/ leaks. Usually it remains stuck to the bottom of the toilet if you pull it back up. Just do it carefully.I don't know if Fernco would back that claim though.
1700863
Yes,it will work great.I say use 2 seals if flange more than 3/8 inches below floor level as their video states at the sani seal site.,put a silicone bead top and bottom on both seals and install.I put in a 3/4 inch plywood floor,then laminate and this is about the best and easiest way to compensate for that distance out there.Its simple,and it works. I would also shim the toilet so it bolts down firmly and doesnt rock but I bet even a slight rock these seals will flex and not leak. Give it a try,I bet you will find its your solution.
2213254
I am going to assume that your drain has a cover that snaps in tightly. If that is the case, Del Sols answer is where you need to begin. If by chance it does not have a cover and gets stuck as it passes over the drain, you may need to get a drain cover and follow Del Sols recommendations.
1211967
Matt, I would suggest you reduce the pipe or drain down to a 3" This will give you a leak resistant seal. I used Hydraulic cement and bonded pvc pipe with the appropriate diameter to the interior of my bell shaped floor drain. This then gave me a perfect diameter that was supported by the dried hydraulic cement. This allowed it to handle the side pressure of the bladder as you tighten this floor guard. Or on the worse case you can order it and try it too see if it will expand too the size you need, if it doesn't fit you can always return it. This worked in my situation but may or may not in yours. Matt, I would suggest you reduce the pipe or drain down to a 3" This will give you a leak resistant seal. I used Hydraulic cement and bonded pvc pipe with the appropriate diameter to the interior of my bell shaped floor drain. This then gave me a perfect diameter that was supported by the dried hydraulic cement. This allowed it to handle the side pressure of the bladder as you tighten this floor guard. Or on the worse case you can order it and try it too see if it will expand too the size you need, if it doesn't fit you can always return it. This worked in my situation but may or may... » Read More Matt, I would suggest you reduce the pipe or drain down to a 3" This will give you a leak resistant seal. I used Hydraulic cement and bonded pvc pipe with the appropriate diameter to the interior of my bell shaped floor drain. This then gave me a perfect diameter that was supported by the dried hydraulic cement. This allowed it to handle the side pressure of the bladder as you tighten this floor guard. Or on the worse case you can order it and try it too see if it will expand too the size you need, if it doesn't fit you can always return it. This worked in my situation but may or may not in yours. « Show Less
1700866
Yes,it will work great.I say use 2 seals if flange more than 3/8 inches below floor level as their video states at the sani seal site.,put a silicone bead top and bottom on both seals and install.I put in a 3/4 inch plywood floor,then laminate and this is about the best and easiest way to compensate for that distance out there.Its simple,and it works.I would also shim the toilet so it bolts down firmly and doesnt rock but I bet even a slight rock these seals will flex and not leak.Give it a try,I bet you will find its your solution.
261799
If you mean a pop up drain, you would have to remove the pop up part and it should work fine.
845973
I'm sure that would work, but it isn't necessary; and I think the friction on the outside nut helps keep it tight. The gasket and flush side go on the inside and the nut and hose/pipe side go outside to tighten the gasket. Of course, you can also have threads inside the flush(gasket) side if necessary.
1169301
I have a lift-off toilet seat and the seat attaches to two round posts with a flange on the bottom. The posts are wider than the slots in the disks. The flange also would be an issue if if the posts would fit because they wouldn't allow for the bidet to be mounted flush. The slots are only large enough for a standard bolt/post.
261798
If you pull the drain portion out that pulls up, it will work. That is the kind we have, but you have to completely remove the drain plug to use it, meaning unscrew it.