Thanks Dan H but (1) Does that make the box 60 amp total. (2) My 220v output is 20 amp, am I limited to 20 amp load or 40. (3) can I change to 30 amp output so I want overload and trip the breaker? My generator is 7500 watts I shouldn't overload it but...
1192159
This power distribution box converts a 220V input feed with a neutral conductor into multiple 120V output circuits that are GFCI protected and over-current protected at 20 amps. If your generator can output 20A at 220V, then you can theoretically connect up to 40A of load at 120V via this distribution box as long as your 120V loads are balanced on a per phase basis. To ensure system safety, your generator output must have a 30A 2-pole circuit breaker (20A or 25A would also be fine) to ensure the per phase current never exceeds 30A, which is the rating of the twist-lock input receptacle.
525258
The specs for input are 230v and 60amps. Your.generator's breaker will trip before you get any serious welding done.
32588
Hang on while I go look. There is a tag on the bottom that states 120V A. C., 60 Hz., 1.5 A. I would have guessed it would have a higher amperage need. Additionally, there is no mention of voltage or amperage requirements in the Owner's Guide.
1458972
Sounds like if you have the 8000 watts output this cord will plug into your output receptacle on the generator, need to check the ratings on both the cord and generator. Remember this is the main feed line between your generator and home or what you are trying to supply with electricity. Use caution, proper rated inlet box and a transfer switch/panel. 8000 watts output is more than sufficient to run [minimal use] a normal size single family home during an outage. Also, when in doubt consult with a licensed electrician.
1368397
I will look at it but its 7.5 amps so your never going to flip a light duty 15amp breaker. Provided its the only signifcant draw on the circut. Ive run it extensivly from a celing basement light fixture incandessent 800lumins standard 60w replacement and a stereo off that circut with no problems. Not a great idea but i was literaly in a coal chamber of my 100+yr. House. 20amp gcfi i installed was using my radial saw on and a lot of back and forth. Kinda a ramble but point being any problem on performance. If you want watts its circut amp current multiplied by volts 120v in this case. Amps are probably more relavant for a power tool. 3000rpm. This and a Ridged imlact wrench almost cover all my needs. Good build.
326030
just look at the rating on the box. I'm using a smaller generator, and it works fine. BTW, there is a similar unit from the same company rated for 7000 watts (7kw), if you need to go larger. The box is the same size I think, but the connector arrangement is probably different, to handle more amperage. Good luck!
938581
You have a 30 amp cable rated for 250 volts which is 7500 watts. (AxV=W) When it says 8750 max it means it will not blow the breaker during an inrush when something starts (up to 8750W). The cable will also handle this. Just watch the amp meter on the generator to see what you are running at. Test it when the weather is nice. If it is more than 7000 W your generator is too small. Your option is to shut off some breakers or get a larger generator and a 40 A cable.I assume you have a transfer switch if it connected to the main panel.
602807
Wish I could help. I had my electrician install. We had 220V running to the location of the low voltage Nest. They ended up working great. Prob should contact an electrician. It was above my head, and I'm a fairly knowledgable GC. Good luck. Jeff
1084192
You will need a double breaker with a minimum of 25 amp on each side. I have a double 30 on 1 panel and a double 40 on the other (I have 2 hookups) The Generator has its own breaker as well if over drawn.
899645
Your generator will only put out 41 amps at full load no matter how many 30amp receptacles you have. The more items you use in your RV at the same time the more amps you will use, up to 41 amps max.
1465015
Sorry its not designed to do that. If your amp is tripping your breaker a lot then it should be on a breaker its self. I would first check to see what service your breaker box is on....60amp, 100amp or 200amp. Most power company prefer 200amp service and in most cases will upgrade your feed line at no charge, as long as you or a certified electrician installs a 200 amp breaker box and service to the outside. But make sure its to code or they will not do it. also see what all that breaker shuts off. It may not be your amp at all it maybe a combination of items that is drawing to much amperage. Also try replacing the outlet your using with a serge outlet so it trips the outlet first and not the breaker. Sorry its not designed to do that. If your amp is tripping your breaker a lot then it should be on a breaker its self. I would first check to see what service your breaker box is on....60amp, 100amp or 200amp. Most power company prefer 200amp service and in most cases will upgrade your feed line at no charge, as long as you or a certified electrician installs a 200 amp breaker box and service to the outside. But make sure its to code or they will not do it. also see what all that breaker shuts off. It may not be your amp at all it maybe a combination of items that is drawing to much... » Read More Sorry its not designed to do that. If your amp is tripping your breaker a lot then it should be on a breaker its self. I would first check to see what service your breaker box is on....60amp, 100amp or 200amp. Most power company prefer 200amp service and in most cases will upgrade your feed line at no charge, as long as you or a certified electrician installs a 200 amp breaker box and service to the outside. But make sure its to code or they will not do it. also see what all that breaker shuts off. It may not be your amp at all it maybe a combination of items that is drawing to much amperage. Also try replacing the outlet your using with a serge outlet so it trips the outlet first and not the breaker. « Show Less
1102101
Hi Teresa, First off, the disclaimer: I am not an electrician. With that aside...yes, it will most definitely work. I am currently using the recommended 220 with 2-50 amp breakers, so you have more than enough power available. Since I wrote my review I have nothing to add other than the unit is still performing flawlessly and satisfactorily. Let me know if you have any other questions. John
2006245
120Vac, 15A. will not work with 20 amps, since this is only rated at 15 amps. here is what is on the back of the unit [i unplugged mine and wrote down the specs that are on the unit and what is on the box itself]. LOAD RATING: 15A 120V 60HZ LINE VOLTAGE: 120V SURGE PROTECTION: L-N, L-G, N-G MAXIMUM SURGE VOLTAGE: 6000V ENERGY DISSIPATION [JOULES PROTECTION]: 1500J MAX. SURGE CURRENT: 60,000A VOLTAGE PROTECTION RATING: 400V [L-N, L-G, N-G] RESPONSE TIME: &lt;1ns EMI/RFI: YES ELECTRICAL: 2 OUTLETS LED INDICATORS: 2 [PROTECTED & POWER] LIMITED LIFETIME PRODUCT WARRANTY $75,000 CONNECTED EQUIPMENT GUARANTEE
2202386
I use a 50amp @ 240VAC breaker. I would not go lower than that.I don't use it in 120V mode, but if I did it would be for light work (16 gauge rods) and I would use a 30 amp breaker, keeping in mind "light work only", otherwise it will trip the breaker. Bear in mind that normal 120V household circuits are 15 - 30 amp circuits, so if you intend to exceed 30 amps in 120V mode, run a dedicated circuit using suitably rated (50 amps) conductor wires.Hope that this helps.
1639303
I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are split over two or more circuits. I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are... » Read More I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are split over two or more circuits. « Show Less
2202382
On 120v a 20a dedicated circuit would be fine. On 220v it only draws 11amps I think, so 15-20 amp circuit. But keep in mind you get full output with 220 volt circuit too. I have tig welded on a 20amp 120v circuit with this thing with great results.
2180739
Does it mess that the total output is 30 amp. Like I can run a 20 amp product & a 10 amp product this totals to 30 amps safely. Thanks bob