Has anyone tried using this to locate rebar or post tension cable? If so, how were your results?
1196589
my opinion is negative,i bought this unit and sold it on ebay 3 weeks later.it never shows what is behinde the wall,allway misleading you
1196590
I have this tool and have used it on lots of different walls - but haven't used it to find rebar or post tension . I would have to say with some time spent using this sub-scanner figuring out a setting with a scrap piece of concrete with rebar in it - it should pinpoint it ! I have found through this scanner in drywall/ plywood how someone covered up mistakes with out tearing out drywall / plywood walls ! On that project it paid for itself !
1196591
The M12 line is good. The copper cutter, PVC cutter, impact gun- all good. The stud finder NOT so good. Mine is 7/8" off for a stud through drywall. My $20 one is more accurate. DON'T waste your money.
1196592
We found the low cost scanner usable in small single family residences but not in comercial work, the density of rebar or cable with conduits and other elements made the imaging less than satisfactory and had to have a subcontractor use much more exspensive testing equipment and still had to proced with caution. It des work well in all types of walls both comercial and residential for stud type construction.
1459544
Have you used a crimping/stripping tool to "clean" and prep the cable first? This is a critical step. the connectors slide on relatively easily once the end of the cable has been prepared. Other than that I have no ideas.
1928075
It can tell you *which* wire is bad, but cannot tell you the *distance* to the break. In other words, it would tell you that the wire connected to pin 4 is not conducting, but would not tell you that the problem is in a kink 12 feet from this end of the cable. I believe that the tools that do that are 10x more expensive.
2013951
I have 10 of those and the cable fits. You can also use a 5$ extension that will go trough the post.
1631354
I think the cables are intended for the "pro" quicker shifting traditional bar-end cabling. That means the cable does not run under the tape to the flats. It is intended to come straight of the shifter only after a couple of wraps of tape. You can look up pictures if you need help. This means if you run it under the tape on a big bar or big bike, you may come up short. I did on my 59cm with 44cm bars. Hey, its Dura Ace so you can't complain.
1857412
worked great for me and my wire was not coated --- probably doesn't matter. Make sure your wire size and anchor size match.
1132616
You need to use romex electrical cable staples. this will definitely won't work, nor would to be safe
1118448
My experience is that the sensor must be very close to the transmitted signal. My opinion is it would not work for cable behind wallboard, etc. Could be a help in sorting out cables you can touch.
451774
I found these to be a bit loose to hold cat5 (i was actually using cat6a) cable firmly. I still used them but every so often I would thicken up the cable a bit with some electrical tape to provide better control and prevent slip through or loosening/sagging of the cable. Unfortunately I don't think there's anything else out there, at least not on Amazon, to use with Cat5 (or Cat6) cable that uses screws - there are fasteners for CAT5 that use nails, I believe, but I would use these before I use those just because the nails are really quite useless in drywall.
45855
Yes it should be there. It took me a minute or two to find it. It is not a seperate cable. Looking at the rack it pulls out of the tube on the back right hand side. The other part of the connection pulls out of the front right side. I hope this helps you.
1200203
I have used it to find an iron pipe about 18" underground. Sometimes it would lose track of the pipe and then pick it up further down the line. Not sure why this is. If it could only find exactly where the leaks are it would really be amazing! Unfortunately, metal detectors are not designed to locate leaks, they just locate the pipe which is a big help. I have found three leaks in an old irrigation system thus far but the next one is still eluding me. There must be a leak as water is going in and not coming out. It has also picked up miscellaneous things a couple of inches from the surface located while searching for the pipe. I have been very pleased with it especially given the price. I have used it to find an iron pipe about 18" underground. Sometimes it would lose track of the pipe and then pick it up further down the line. Not sure why this is. If it could only find exactly where the leaks are it would really be amazing! Unfortunately, metal detectors are not designed to locate leaks, they just locate the pipe which is a big help. I have found three leaks in an old irrigation system thus far but the next one is still eluding me. There must be a leak as water is going in and not coming out. It has also picked up miscellaneous things a couple of inches from the... » Read More I have used it to find an iron pipe about 18" underground. Sometimes it would lose track of the pipe and then pick it up further down the line. Not sure why this is. If it could only find exactly where the leaks are it would really be amazing! Unfortunately, metal detectors are not designed to locate leaks, they just locate the pipe which is a big help. I have found three leaks in an old irrigation system thus far but the next one is still eluding me. There must be a leak as water is going in and not coming out. It has also picked up miscellaneous things a couple of inches from the surface located while searching for the pipe. I have been very pleased with it especially given the price. « Show Less
2171108
My bar had 1 screw/bolt under the middle bar, right in the center. I did this a while ago but I seem to remember it being Torx. The bracket kind of wraps the back of the bar with the bottom hole on the bracket lining up with the screw/bolt. Since gravity works against this I used a dab of loctite on the threads. It has all worked great for me.
1712572
I had that problem at first, and then I realized that I had the orange connector piece in the wrong position. The larger hole slips over the end of the cross-bar, and the smaller portion fits into the upright posts. Hope this helps.
2001412
There may be better ways, but what's worked for me is to take a stiff wire (like the thickness of a coat hangar) and duct tape the wire i'm trying to snake to the tip of it. Then snake this down from the upper receptacle until it becomes visible at the bottom. If you have insulation in the walls this can complicate things and may require you to stick your arm up - from the bottom receptacle if possible. Good luck...
160284
Your best bet would bet would be to buy a unit for each building you want to monitor.Their Current probes (C-Clamps) are NOT "off the shelf" parts and multiplexing cables would be tough and likely end up as a "Kludge".
1371077
I never tried it on rebar. It may be too long to pull the 24" and may not work for 36 inches. The support post used for leverage is already 36" long. I don't know if you can wrap a chain around the rebar and connect the chain to the hook somehow. I probably would not recommend it for this application.
1284278
Hi Sandy. I used mine specifically to find the studs in lathe and plaster walls and it worked great. I know others using this tool to recover pallet wood before working with it and they had good success.