Looking at Lansky box w/ med dia @ fine cer stone rods. Thoughts re D2 Extreme? As a knife rookie, not sure of logic of stropping when stone 2 soft?
1192750
I really know nothing much about this knife other than it seems to be of very high quality. This is the first knife I've owned and I got it because I wanted to get more involved with rustic camping and hiking and thought it would be a useful tool for that. However, I've been informed that it is illegal to have with me outside my own home in my state.
1192751
This knife is hard to sharpen, and has an obtuse edge geometry. It really needs to be reprofiled and sharpened with a diamond stone.
464794
Buy this! You can hold the angle through the draw, there's a course and fine diamond, plus there's a course and fine ceramic on the red lob-and hook, then a ceramic for the aerated portion, and all are pre set angled then a treated leather strop!! I have a spyderco trial angle - difficult to master! You can do it cheaper and better with the work sharp! They've a electric that uses bands, now that's the way to go - that's my next, if you can do electric, get it first, then the portable for field use (the band'll put a razors edge on 'em!)!!!!!
510247
The Schf10 is made of 1095 high carbon steel so its edge will last longer due to the hardness. So yes I would rather make a few passes on a diamond sharpener as oppossed to dozens of passes on an oil stone. Both work. I like to finsh up the edge with oil stones. I've only had my DMT for a few months but it still takes off metal quikly. I imagine they will last a few years with moderate use.
2069912
This 6" stone is way too short for using with a sword. I have a 6" fixed blade Cold Steel Roughneck knife and find this stone too short for it; I can't immagine trying to sharpen a longer blade. I am ordering the carborundum 12" stone from Amazon....one side course/one side fine, for only around 10-15 dollars. That's the way to go. You just have to wet down the carborundum stone with some light oil (even cooking oil will do), then wipe it off when you're done. Everytime I try to sharpen my 6" knife with this....I almost cut myself 'cause there's so little room to draw the blade accross. Hope this helps This 6" stone is way too short for using with a sword. I have a 6" fixed blade Cold Steel Roughneck knife and find this stone too short for it; I can't immagine trying to sharpen a longer blade. I am ordering the carborundum 12" stone from Amazon....one side course/one side fine, for only around 10-15 dollars. That's the way to go. You just have to wet down the carborundum stone with some light oil (even cooking oil will do), then wipe it off when you're done. Everytime I try to sharpen my 6" knife with this....I almost cut myself 'cause there's so little room to draw... » Read More This 6" stone is way too short for using with a sword. I have a 6" fixed blade Cold Steel Roughneck knife and find this stone too short for it; I can't immagine trying to sharpen a longer blade. I am ordering the carborundum 12" stone from Amazon....one side course/one side fine, for only around 10-15 dollars. That's the way to go. You just have to wet down the carborundum stone with some light oil (even cooking oil will do), then wipe it off when you're done. Everytime I try to sharpen my 6" knife with this....I almost cut myself 'cause there's so little room to draw the blade accross. Hope this helps « Show Less
2233908
D2 steel is too hard to be sharpened with a whetstone, you need to use either diamond sharpeners or ceramic crock sticks work well,
83631
Check out this midway page for descriptions:http://www.midwayusa.com/TechnicalNotes/application_pages/knife_steel_and_handle_material_chart.htmAlso check out Spyderco on Wikipedia. 8Cr13MoV appears to be the softest, a chinese stainless steel. 440 is next hardest and S30v is the hardest. S30V is also apparently the hardest to sharpen - haven't needed to sharpen it yet, but have no problem spending the needed time with a wet stone. Seems to retain an edge very well. Good Luck.
2276924
I wouldn't consider mine sharp out-of-the-box at all - definitely a rough sharpened edge as it should, just waiting for the final job - it's a little inconvenient unless you're used to it, but sharpening these yourself is absolutely the preferred way - I think they make these with that in mind - those who want to use it will finish the job, but for the people who want to display it, it's still kind of safe to be aroundit's absolutely ready to use even out of the box, but you'll want to sharpen it if you're serious about it
786169
Hey Christine, Sorry but I won't be much help. I bought those knives for someone else. I'll ask them and see if they could let me know. Good Luck and Happy Holidays
569884
Jose, I just buy one of this, las year, and are very good, better than I was think it was. In my shun knifes, I olny use the ceramic roll (finhish polish), and stay very, but bery sharp all the time. I dont comend use the other disc, only if you have an very damage blade. By the way, this is for japanese angle knives, so, Not recomend to euro knives. But, I change the edge of an damage euro, to japanese, and now its very good to work.
465772
Sorry Chris, but I think the manufacturer would have to explain this one. I know it is fine since to the touch it does not feel gritty like the more coarse stones, or my steel, but it does the job to align the blade back. Can't go wrong for the price.
881204
Dear SG, I'm not very good either, at sharpening. So I bought one of the relatively inexpensive ceramic rod sharpeners. they have a plastic frame that holds the knife at about twenty degrees, all you have to remember is to pass the blade over the rod aproximately the same number of strokes for each side to keep them even. You can't really mess up to bad, just set the sharpener on a flat surface and run the blade it's full length on the ceramic rod, use aproximately the same presure on each side of blade. Not much pressure is required. You will notice as t he blade is sharpened it will get more and more shinny on the cutting edge. No oil or water is necessary on these types of sharpeners as would be on a traditiional stone.The edge you can get with six or seven passes on each side of blade should be plenty sharpe enough for the average job.Don't let the blade get too dull between sharpening as it lenthens the amount of time necessary to bring up a good cutting edge. Best of luck on it, start off with your cheapest blade even though the chances of doing any harm are small. Gary petersen
429236
A decent whetstone when used properly will always get the best results with any non serrated blade from Kitana to Higo no Kami. Its what the pros use as well. As far as grit goes that all depends on how dull the blade is. A variety of stones will cover your bases and last damn near forever.
1532669
It's really intended for the serration style found on pocket knives and some steak knives, not the fine saw teeth found on a lot of kitchen knives, but even then it's not that great. The diamond rod does work quite well on serrations though.
1400555
I just strop mine on a paddle strop loaded with green polishing compound - super easy to get a nice sharp edge.I think that the edge retention is reasonable, but if you want to do a lot of cutting then maybe use a dedicated knife.For small jobs the Swiss Army Knife steel is just fine.
886971
So much better! I have both and the Lansky sharpener is my go-to. The weight of the Lansky sharpener gives me a better grip, and the quality of their ceramic stone is much greater. I get a better edge with the Lansky sharpener.
1701705
I don't know why they show the trainer knife or the d2 description. I have bought three of these knives over the last three years with the drop point and they have all been 154 cm. I like this steel for this knife. It is a lot easier to sharpen than d2 but still has good edge retention. The description on the knives I bought only show 154cm. The blade is the same all the way and is a full tang that is cut out the same as the aluminum handle scales. The only negatives on this knife with me is the sheath, which is probably just my preferences, and handle scales have sharp edges and should have been blended and more curved around the edges for comfort. I don't know why they show the trainer knife or the d2 description. I have bought three of these knives over the last three years with the drop point and they have all been 154 cm. I like this steel for this knife. It is a lot easier to sharpen than d2 but still has good edge retention. The description on the knives I bought only show 154cm. The blade is the same all the way and is a full tang that is cut out the same as the aluminum handle scales. The only negatives on this knife with me is the sheath, which is probably just my preferences, and handle scales have sharp edges and should... » Read More I don't know why they show the trainer knife or the d2 description. I have bought three of these knives over the last three years with the drop point and they have all been 154 cm. I like this steel for this knife. It is a lot easier to sharpen than d2 but still has good edge retention. The description on the knives I bought only show 154cm. The blade is the same all the way and is a full tang that is cut out the same as the aluminum handle scales. The only negatives on this knife with me is the sheath, which is probably just my preferences, and handle scales have sharp edges and should have been blended and more curved around the edges for comfort. « Show Less
548029
The knife came reasonably sharp but I always work mine once I get a new knife. I only had to take this to my strop to make it scary sharp. I have an old leather belt that I rub a polishing compound stick across and then I strop my knives on that to finish them. Some knives I get I have to put them on a stone as they are poor edge. Not this one. The sheath seems to hold this blade in place very well. I have had to work the back of the blade with a file in order to get it to work with a fire steel. These are stamped knives but they are a quality knife. i bought 2. 1 for me and 1 for my wife. I will buy these knives again if i need to replace my carbon steel knife. The knife came reasonably sharp but I always work mine once I get a new knife. I only had to take this to my strop to make it scary sharp. I have an old leather belt that I rub a polishing compound stick across and then I strop my knives on that to finish them. Some knives I get I have to put them on a stone as they are poor edge. Not this one. The sheath seems to hold this blade in place very well. I have had to work the back of the blade with a file in order to get it to work with a fire steel. These are stamped knives but they are a quality knife. i bought 2. 1 for me and 1 for my wife.... » Read More The knife came reasonably sharp but I always work mine once I get a new knife. I only had to take this to my strop to make it scary sharp. I have an old leather belt that I rub a polishing compound stick across and then I strop my knives on that to finish them. Some knives I get I have to put them on a stone as they are poor edge. Not this one. The sheath seems to hold this blade in place very well. I have had to work the back of the blade with a file in order to get it to work with a fire steel. These are stamped knives but they are a quality knife. i bought 2. 1 for me and 1 for my wife. I will buy these knives again if i need to replace my carbon steel knife. « Show Less