This does not appear to be Lubriplate's cold weather grease, but some reviewers are calling it that. Amazon sells their cold weather grease for a couple bucks more. I thought the issue with screw drives was the cold temperatures, where a standard lithium grease would be too thick (hence the need for a "cold temperature" grease). Why purchase this grease over the cold temp grease for (Genie) screw drives? This does not appear to be Lubriplate's cold weather grease, but some reviewers are calling it that. Amazon sells their cold weather grease for a couple bucks more. I thought the issue with... » Read More This does not appear to be Lubriplate's cold weather grease, but some reviewers are calling it that. Amazon sells their cold weather grease for a couple bucks more. I thought the issue with screw drives was the cold temperatures, where a standard lithium grease would be too thick (hence the need for a "cold temperature" grease). Why purchase this grease over the cold temp grease for (Genie) screw drives? « Show Less
1175374
I chose this Lubraplate because I am using it as a general lubricant in moderate temp. If you go to Lubraplate's web page https://www.lubriplate.com/ they explain the differences between their products.
207690
The 10 oz. tube that I purchased through Amazon was Lubriplate Low Temp grease and it came in a black and gray tube, not the tube that is displayed. Unless they have changed the product since I purchased it, that is what they sent and I reviewed. I bought this grease as a 10 oz. tube was like $10, instead of $6 for a 1 or 2 oz. tube of Genie screw-drive grease.
1129104
None that I noticed, extremely good lube that stays in place as good or better than any other I've used. I rate it all around excellent.
794020
Hi Vernon, The product is designed to reduce friction on cold start up in order to prolong engine life. When one first starts their engine after sitting overnight most of the oil is in the sump (oil pan). It is not pressurized for a split second. This is when an estimated 60% -70% of internal engine wear takes place. The Liquid Moly clings to the upper bearing surfaces and piston cylinder walls more so than regular engine oil due to it's composition. This product is widely used by BMW Dealers in their vehicles. Most benefit in my opinion occurs on an engine at around 10000 -15000 miles on the odometer. Why? Because the engine has started developing it's internal wear patterns. Microscopic scratches are 'filled in' with the super slippery ceramic coating thus reducing heat and friction at those contact points. The product is drawn to high heat friction areas by molecular attraction. - I am an advocate of allowing new engine bearings and friction surfcaes to 'seat in' (old school). In short in my pinion, and I am sure many will disagree, I would wait until you have around 10K to 15K miles on your new vehcile. Does the product work? Yes. - Please also read my review on 'FriktionTek' which I am convinced is a better option for a higher mileage engine (70K to 100K miles). But it is very pricy at $179.00 per tube on Amazon. I have used both. On your new engine, I would wait until all the bearings, valves and pistons have seated in first.
405243
I'd avoid WD40. It's purpose in life is as a [W]ater [D]isplacer to flush water out of places that is harmful to metal parts. But I also use it to strip grease off bike chains. Whatever lubricant the knife had might have just been flushed out of it. I would use the penetrating oil for frozen bolts as recommended then try to get as much of that off as possible since you probably need to re-grease it which won't be easy. Try to work grease or a dry lube back into the sliding surfaces. The penetrating oil residue will probably thin the first applications of grease or lube, you may need to repeat. I'd avoid WD40. It's purpose in life is as a [W]ater [D]isplacer to flush water out of places that is harmful to metal parts. But I also use it to strip grease off bike chains. Whatever lubricant the knife had might have just been flushed out of it. I would use the penetrating oil for frozen bolts as recommended then try to get as much of that off as possible since you probably need to re-grease it which won't be easy. Try to work grease or a dry lube back into the sliding surfaces. The penetrating oil residue will probably thin the first applications of grease or lube, you may need to repeat.
428518
WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease, http://www.lowes.com/pd_363004-357-30002_0__?Ntt=wd40+lithium&UserSearch;=%22wd+40%22+lithium&productId;=3503052&rpp;=48
2215609
Should not have to add grease to the sealed portion of the housing for many thousands of miles but be sure the exposed needle bearings in the back side of the hub have plenty of grease packed between the needles. The only way grease can be added to the sealed portion of the hub is to remove the ABS sensor and pump grease into the opening. This can be done later when it comes time to repack the needle bearings. My original hubs had 172,000 miles without ever having grease added and were not noisy or loose. I completely disassembled them after removal and there was still a small amount of grease inside. Only 1 showed any sign of wear or heat build up. Should not have to add grease to the sealed portion of the housing for many thousands of miles but be sure the exposed needle bearings in the back side of the hub have plenty of grease packed between the needles. The only way grease can be added to the sealed portion of the hub is to remove the ABS sensor and pump grease into the opening. This can be done later when it comes time to repack the needle bearings. My original hubs had 172,000 miles without ever having grease added and were not noisy or loose. I completely disassembled them after removal and there was still a small amount of... » Read More Should not have to add grease to the sealed portion of the housing for many thousands of miles but be sure the exposed needle bearings in the back side of the hub have plenty of grease packed between the needles. The only way grease can be added to the sealed portion of the hub is to remove the ABS sensor and pump grease into the opening. This can be done later when it comes time to repack the needle bearings. My original hubs had 172,000 miles without ever having grease added and were not noisy or loose. I completely disassembled them after removal and there was still a small amount of grease inside. Only 1 showed any sign of wear or heat build up. « Show Less
68322
I have been using this air tool since the day it arrived on cars, trucks, small engines and heavy duty vehicles. The ONLY lube I use in it is the standard air tool oil in the squeeze bottle. Never had any problems and sure I won't either. The only time I will use lithium grease is when taking a broken air tool apart just to grease the inside parts. I use an air compressor on most of my air tools but also run nitrogen when using the EXACT SAME air tools from home, at the race track. Still no problems.
2243120
I have only had mine for about 1 1/2 months. Upon installation, I, as I always do with outside movable parts, I sprayed white lithium grease on the threads of the 2 bolts and on the shaft and it's inside collar. I plan on hitting it again before another Maine winter sets in. Hope this helps....S
1629667
My recommendation is a Dielectric Auto Tune-up Grease by "Permatex,"or a White Lithium Grease (spray can) or a Marine tube type used for outboard motors/trailers. Basically, a water proof/resistant type grease. If I remember correctly, the Mfr. had a preference for the auto tune -up grease. WD-40 lubricate is a fine product and will displace water, however it will wash away from the interior O-rings found in the water nozzles. Perhaps, this may assist you.
1492878
There are better lubes for PTO applications. A good grease would probably be better.. but.. in a pinch, if it were going to sit connected and idle for long periods.. it would probably work just fine.
1540364
I installed mine last summer and used my trailer off and on over the winter and never had a problem. The gears fit tight and even when towing at 65mph I never noticed any water getting into and\or freezing in the unit. Nor did I ever see moisture in the storage areas. They do seem to be lubed well and that may help keep the water out. But this is the same type of locking gear used on bicycle locks that have been around for years I still have a lock from the early 80s that is a similar lock design and it works as good today as it did 25 years ago.The one thing I have noticed is that in less then a year the black paint faded and oxidized. But I live in SE WA and we have 300+ days of sun. I installed mine last summer and used my trailer off and on over the winter and never had a problem. The gears fit tight and even when towing at 65mph I never noticed any water getting into and\or freezing in the unit. Nor did I ever see moisture in the storage areas. They do seem to be lubed well and that may help keep the water out. But this is the same type of locking gear used on bicycle locks that have been around for years I still have a lock from the early 80s that is a similar lock design and it works as good today as it did 25 years ago.The one thing I have noticed is... » Read More I installed mine last summer and used my trailer off and on over the winter and never had a problem. The gears fit tight and even when towing at 65mph I never noticed any water getting into and\or freezing in the unit. Nor did I ever see moisture in the storage areas. They do seem to be lubed well and that may help keep the water out. But this is the same type of locking gear used on bicycle locks that have been around for years I still have a lock from the early 80s that is a similar lock design and it works as good today as it did 25 years ago.The one thing I have noticed is that in less then a year the black paint faded and oxidized. But I live in SE WA and we have 300+ days of sun. « Show Less
2011797
It works for me on my M1A rifle. It gets used in some pretty high temperature areas. On the container, it says that it will work in a range of -45 degrees F to 450 degrees F (-43 C to 232 C). If that range is unsatisfactory, I believe Super Lube makes a High Temp, High Pressure grease that may be suitable for you (-30 F to 475 F). It may be more expensive though. Good luck!
68319
Hi. I am using Amsoil #2 grease. It is not lithium but it works great. I am sure that the grease that I am using is synthetic. Hope this helps.
879317
I don't think they are. You have to install the zero fittings, and I don't recall seeing any grease . I greased mine after they were on the car to ensure they were properly lubed.Additionally, it is not a sealed joint, meaning periodic lube is required.
824091
This is Coconut oil. It is an oil. When it is cold, it will solidify, and at warm temperatures (76 degrees) will melt and be an oily liquid. (think of how olive oil does this too) This is really a very nice product that has many uses.
1629666
My recommendation is a Dielectric Auto Tune-up Grease by "Permatex,"or a White Lithium Grease (spray can) or a Marine tube type used for outboard motors/trailers. Basically, a water proof/resistant type grease. If I remember correctly, the Mfr. had a preference for the auto tune -up grease. WD-40 lubricate is a fine product and will displace water, however it will wash awayfrom the interior O-rings found in the water nozzles. Perhaps, this may assist you.
139630
You don't want to use this for brake jobs. You want something that doesn't release oil at higher temperatures. Any auto parts store should carry brake caliper grease at a similar $8-13 pricepoint. It's much tackier and almost sticky. Just the right thing for something that isn't truly sealed. My caliper pins on my crown victoria are only sealed by a plug, of sorts. It's certainly not airtight or water tight. Thus the tacky caliper grease repels the water and stays in place well. Not to say you absolutely couldn't use it, but if there's any chance that the oil will seep and get onto the brake pads/rotors, you absolutely do not want to use this!