What size fuse should I use for this battery. And is the fuse to the output going to the converter? Or input from the charge regulator? Thanks
1175397
We install the fuse on the positive cable (red) of the battery. We utilize a charger/inverter combination so only 1 cable connecting to battery and use a fuse that must equal or exceed the Minimum DC Fuse rating in your inverter/Charger's nameplate as recommended by the manufacturer of the inverter/charger which in our case since we use a 1500 W Inverter is 200A
1175398
That's an open question. I'm not sure what you are using this for. The fuse is determined by the size of the load and not the battery. If you read the directions on the charge controller, I used a SunSaver 10L Charge Controller with LVD, it will give you some assistance depending on the DC load. If you are hooking up an inverter to the battery you will follow the recommendations of the inverter manufacture. Otherwise expand a little on your intended use.
1175399
The size fuse depends on the load. Typical on a main line for a boat or rv is 50 amps. The fuse is on the hot side going to the converter. Hopefully your input side has a fuse if it is from a charger. If from a motor, ie generator/alternator, no additional one is typically neede.
1175400
The manufacturer website specifies a maximum charging current of 35 amps. I fuse Mine at 40 amps.
1175401
I use a 150 amp ANL fuse as close as possible to the positive terminal on the battery going to the inverter. The fuse size depends on the size of the inverter, I am using a 1000 watt inverter
1175402
It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and the wire size (20 amps and a #10 wire). As stated by some others here, it all depends on your setup. It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and... » Read More It depends on your setup. The inverter has overcurrent protection of its own. You will need to size the fuse or breaker for the expected maximum load to be drawn through the wire and the wire size. The overcurrent device you install here is intended to protect the wire. For my setup, I used a #4 wire feeding a BESTEK 1000w/1200w 12v to 110v Inverter Power Supply MRI10011-1, so I installed a 100amp DC breaker/switch. For a fuse, I would install the same size for the same setup. I also have a breaker on the input to the charge regulator, but that's sized for the max current expected there and the wire size (20 amps and a #10 wire). As stated by some others here, it all depends on your setup. « Show Less
1307867
I bought it for a 19.2 battery and it works great. The bottom says the output is for 12-19.2 volts. There also is a model number of 315.ch2020 on the bottom. I hope this helps.
1812477
Patrick: I cannot answer your question directly except to say that I looked up the spec's for your radio and it says that the vehicle power cord for this unit is rated at 5v output so it shoud work properly, (especially if the plug going into the radio fits properly). I hope this helps.... If it blows out the radio, then there is too much power going to the radio. If on the other hand, the power cord blows out and NOT the radio, then there is too much power going into the adaptor and it will blow the fuse therein. Make sure you only have 12v going into the power cord fromt he vehicle's battery. Patrick: I cannot answer your question directly except to say that I looked up the spec's for your radio and it says that the vehicle power cord for this unit is rated at 5v output so it shoud work properly, (especially if the plug going into the radio fits properly). I hope this helps.... If it blows out the radio, then there is too much power going to the radio. If on the other hand, the power cord blows out and NOT the radio, then there is too much power going into the adaptor and it will blow the fuse therein. Make sure you only have 12v going into the power cord fromt he vehicle's... » Read More Patrick: I cannot answer your question directly except to say that I looked up the spec's for your radio and it says that the vehicle power cord for this unit is rated at 5v output so it shoud work properly, (especially if the plug going into the radio fits properly). I hope this helps.... If it blows out the radio, then there is too much power going to the radio. If on the other hand, the power cord blows out and NOT the radio, then there is too much power going into the adaptor and it will blow the fuse therein. Make sure you only have 12v going into the power cord fromt he vehicle's battery. « Show Less
386088
One is AC and the other DC. The 30 amp fuse is on the AC supply side and the 55 amps is what is provided to the DC BUS (I'm not an expert but a 120V/30A source could provide up to 330 AMPS DC) Check out this website for more info...http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html
317801
Your charge controller needs to be able to handle 48v input...Morningstar TriStar can, and the Renogy PWM 30 Amp w/LCD can also. Check out pvdepot.com and batterystuff.com-- both have good info for sizing your system correctly.
782139
You will need fuse for every connection. If your inverter size is 1000W, you have to consider the current draw from the battery is 1000/12=83Amp. When you size the fuse, typically you need to times 1.2, so a fuse size 100Amp is safe.
2164337
Not sure. Right voltage, and exceeds amperage capacity. From pics on other sites, the connector looks like it fits. But the only way to know for sure is to try it. If not, you could wire the connector from the old battery if you still have it.
485745
On the phone or old battery there should be a voltage and milli-amp rating, ideally you get the same, never less on amps. Physical size and connector is next check, make sure red and black are on same side, I have only seen two styles of connectors through the years. Last make sure you give new battery the twelve or eighteen hour initial charge as recommended. Happy hunting.
719773
Dear It will be fit to the battery terminal + for red - for black it will be important to fix a fuse in +terminal . Then you can plug your divice to get 5 v power .
1399741
The wire that comes from the fuse holder is a positive + connection only and should be connected to the positive wire on your charger. You should have a negitive wire coming the charger that should be connected to a ground source near the fuse box.
1128140
I am not sure, but it looks like your battery is a 14 Volt battery, then you should use 14 Volt battery, The Voltage is the most critical issue here.
386089
One is AC and the other DC. The 30 amp fuse is on the AC supply side and the 55 amps is what is provided to the DC BUS (I'm not an expert but a 120V/30A source could provide up to 330 AMPS DC) Check out this website for more info... http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html
1276508
We will never get a clear answer on that question. Too many variables. This little gen is only going to be able to get about a 25% charge in a couple of hours. This runs my 25amp house charger with 2 type 34dc batteries and I get a good "top em off affect". Batteries need 8 plus hours of low amp charging to get the last 25% of charge. I'm not sure if this will help but I tried. I feel this little gen is an easy insurance policy to keep the heat and lights going on multi day stays. I wouldn't use the dc charger on the gen unless my converter charger failed to operate.
2088335
I use my charge controller with a 12 volt converter, but I think you can put as much power in as you want,and that it will charge a 24 volt battery bank.Since I have 12 volt converter, I had to put all my 12 volt batteries in parallel, so as not to go above 12 volts and exceed the converters volts
490724
1. You should use a charge controller to reduce risk of damage to the battery. 2. probably 3.3 amps but no way to be sure without seeing the label or cell spec
324677
The inverter max capacity is 72 watts @ 24v which would be 3 amps. Stated 90% efficiency would equal a draw of 3.33 amps where .33a is being lost in the converter. Using an online 12v battery sizing calculator with a 3.33 amperage draw for 8 hours on an AGM type battery to 50% discharge (they called it a safe discharge) resulted a 58AH@20HR battery.
2249727
I would keep the configuration the same because you will above 13 volts to charge the battery. If your looking for amperage in series, it's best to have a power capacitor wired on the 30 amp solar controller battery input side, and the output on the capacitor to the battery with a resettable 20 amp fuse on the red cable to the battery. The capacitor depending on the Faradays you pick, will act as solar storage and help the backup battery recover fast if your running an AC Inverter on the battery output cables. Remember these panels are only outputting at 35 watts, so the amperage is low and need capacitors for storage.