Anyway to make this work with incandescent 12V halogens on electronic ballast?We gambled the $31 but it's not working.
1163943
I was able to make it work with compact fluorescents by adding a 10W incandescent bulb into the mix.
1163944
You will need to get a licensed Electrical to solve your problem. To connect the switch correctly it is important to do a proper connection to get this switch to work. It is critical as an improper connection can damage the electronic controls in the switch and then it is damaged. Sorry I am not there to help you out but a local electrician should be able to check this out for you.
1161191
CHECK all cords make sure you have right power and switched right then 100%to start.If that don't work send ballast back. they have bin really good replacing bad or defective.
1843260
These lamps work with a digital ballast, and most digital ballasts can operate both Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps. As long as your ballast can operate a 600 watt Metal Halide bulb, this bulb should work just fine.
1414900
I have these on dimmers in two rooms and I just used the same dimmers that where in the wall switch for the incandescent bulbs. I know that works. Specialized Halogen bulbs may have a different voltage and current range and I'm not certain whether your dimmers are specialized for a particular system. But, if it's the type of dimmer that would work just as well with a standard bulb, it should work with these.
2115202
Sorry Robert, I don't know about a ballast. Purchased the extra bulb from Amazon, have not encountered the ballast issue. Good luck.
2282540
Sorry, I am not sure, I was going to try that on a job, but resolved the problem before I got around to using the light socket adapter. I was going to use a 2-prong light socket adapter and a 2-3 prong adapter plugged into that for the test unit.
851681
I have done the same thing for outdoor lighting and it worked fine. I would suggest putting the old bulbs back in and see it they work or measure the connector outlet to ensure you have 12vdc at the terminal. Good luck . These bulbs I received far surpass the halogen bulbs that I had in prior with a great light and much longer life.
83389
Sorry, I can't be definate. But, the ballast interchanged perfectly, just remove and attach the old wire terminations. A wiring diagram is on the cover of the ballast. The bulb sockets themselves are unchanged.
61360
No, Will only work with Halogen or Incandescent loads (bulbs). FOR LED, you need a DC driver, try Eversale (illuminous) 12V, 12W = EV-12V-1000-12D, 26W = EV-12V-2200-33D, 48W = EV-12V-4000-60D. Also 24V versions 12W = EV-24V-500-12D, 26W = EV-24V-1100-33D, 48W = EV-24V-2000-60D
999044
I used an electronic dimmer switch and it works like a charm I got mine at Ace Hardware for less than $20. Remember you are controlling the power to the Ballast not the Lamp
1749927
Ballasts do not determine kelvin temperature (or the color of the light)......it's the bulbs :-)
1562882
I am using LED's $53.00 ea. I was using halogen with no problem. Remember there is an adjustment on the base unit that You turn to get it to sense the darkness of night so it will come on. Mine blinks for a while as dark is nearing then stays on until day light.
47308
I TRIED to advise someone earlier that capacitative loads such as electronic ballasts for LEDs & compact-fluors would be PROBLEMATIC, so nobody should be surprised. The only way I can see to make such a thing work is to do one of the work-arounds I have tried and succeeded with: 1. Use on a circuit, such as a ceiling fan/lamp fixture, where the capacitative and inductive loads help "cancel" each other out... i.e., screw-in the fancy bulb all the way and set the fan to at least low speed at all times. THEN, the fan will always move a bit (but will NEVER attain full-speed performance at any mechanical setting), but the e-ballasted bulb will at least turn and OFF decisively. THIS is the problem I'm currently struggling with as I dread the approach of Summer, where I won't be able to "feed" my current-hungry ceiling fan thru that current-limiting 6696 wall-switch.... The other workaround yopu could try is to put a low-wattage incandescent bulb (resistive load) in as part of the usual combination of bulbs in the ceiling-fixture. Currently (no pun intended), I use none of the fancy bulbs and rely solely upon the li'l 20W tungsten bulb in the whole ceiling fixture-- works GREAT... dimming/set and everything. I've also found that one or so fancy bulbs will also operate "properly" in the ceiling-fan fixture WHEN and only when the incandescent bulb is also operating. The e-ballast will cause the fancy bulb to sputter-- even as the incandescent is dimming-- but at least it will get to full-on or full-off in a second or two. Such is not possible with the fancy bulb(s) comprising the total electric load on the e-ballast alone. It's a bad, caveman-ish design; the older versions (with the 4-batt remotes) were less difficult... bulb-sputter and never a full-turn-off without the fan being at least on "low," but at least they would allow FULL-speed operation of the fan.... I'm working on the problem... thinking of a dual-switch solution for the fan only... so stay tuned....
855884
play around with the ballast connections. when i setup mine, ballast connectors caused the same issue.
2004525
Revove the ballast throw away. Now connect two wires to 12 volts you are done.
1724891
Yup! I've used both digital and analog ballasts and the bulbs don't really matter much. If your current ballasts work with your set up (as in plays nice with sensors/daytime/auto-on modes) and the wattage matches; this should be a plug and play installation. There's plenty of places on google that can help you out if you get stuck. Best of luck!
929879
The electronics are in the light fixture but the driver(ballast) is in the cover. You need the cover, or a junction box to house the driver. The smallest box that will work that I have found is a 4x4x4" PVC box.