Is there an alternative/creative way you can tighten the rack arms to the vertical posts without marring the paint and creating indentations? This seems like a pretty poor design for $150.00. I see a lot of folks have indicated that the screws mar and...
1170603
Hi Lee, for ease of use, the screw type deign is the most secure and easiest to adjust. Because these are primarily used for storage of the same bike, adjustments are infrequently required, so typically this is not a concern. However, if you do need to make adjustments, you can treat any exposed metal with a rust inhibitor, or simply nail polish or clear coat to prevent any rust from developing. Thanks!
1686863
Hi....and I have no clue as I have never done that. This rack is very well made and I have had no problems with it. Sorry I couldn't help.
1837120
I don't have this problem, but it may be that you need to put something like a sheet of rubber between the base of the rack and your bumper, if you have a metal to metal contact issue. You need something that will greatly increase the friction between the two.
1912618
Julie, mine didn't come with instructions either. I just figured out how they go on by trial and error. I will tell you that one of the racks is shorter than the other and that one will be the front one. I'm sure you can find something "on the line" if you Google it. Good luck and I hope this helped.
1359823
Yes, I lost a few last year and found that by going to innoracks.com I was able to get the name of a supplier that provided them. They were about six bucks each(!). I didn't actually buy any then, but will need to this season. BTW despite the fact that the straps come completely off and are therefore able to be lost, I like it better this way because it's a much cleaner look when the rack isn't in use.
1773707
I had the same problem because the metal disk on the right side of the grilling rack. It has little bumps on it that are supposed to fit into matching indentations in the side of the grill itself. There is a spot to hold it flat, and another spot to hold it slightly tilted. On mine, the metal disc was bent so the bumps didn't fully engage the indents. I tried to straighten it out myself, but couldn't. Contacted MECO, and after seeing pictures & my description of the problem sent me a whole new handle/heating element/grill rack piece. Once I replaced it, everything worked as it should. Of course there is also the possibility you installed it in the wrong hole on the left side of the grill, and it won't work. Apparently this is very common, since their customer service was pretty sure that was the problem until I sent them pictures showing it was installed correctly.
1321441
Mine are installed on the sides facing the inside of the power rack. While its a little annoying because I have to take them out to do other exercises in the rack if you install them on the outside unless yours is bolted or weighted heavily to the floor your will tip your rack. The inside though feels perfectly fine, right distance apart. I personally don't even bother using the bolt that came with them to hold them in place. The force of doing the dip keeps them from any movement.
175490
First always park in good spot, not backed in at the end. My rack has a 6" side rail. I can loop a small plastic coated cable (ready made or pieced together at Lowe's) enough to discourage the average lowlife.
2108616
gotta drill a couple of holes in the aluminum panel....make sure its where ya want it the first time!! otherwise these are normally meant for "open" rails! I had to actually make custom addins for the brackets on my old '84 Palm Beach 21', since mine is smaller square tubing!!!
2089246
I exchanged emails with them a few years ago about its weight capacity. They said they had dropped 1200 lbs on the spotters and hooks and it didn't budge (I still have the old email). I don't know if it would endure that beat for long or anything would for that matter. I certainly wouldn't drop that kind of load on the front hooks outside the rack without having it bolted on the floor! You could tip the rack. Also the dip bars are rated at 250 lbs a piece.
200821
The screws mount up at 36" apart, but the rack itself is a little wider. You might get an idea just by looking at the pictures of it. You might not want to squeeze it in too tight a space anyway, since that would minimize its utility. Pans and pots swing past the ends. I hope your problem is based on where you can drill holes, and not where you can shoehorn the rack, because it's a great item. Good luck!
1170700
Yes Ken B, so here's what I did: I wrapped 3m rubber tape around both of the metal latch ends that contact metal. There was still a slight rattle so I realized that it was the "bed" of the rack contacting (ie vibrating against) the frame when the rack is empty. No sweat; I just went and found Jose the Welder, hit him with a $20 bill and he spot welded everything rattling for me in about 5 minutes! Problem(s) solved.
253218
can you post a photo? i really want to mount my baskets with the release and can't quite picture your solution. both open and closed....thanks!!
1693609
Hello! Thank you for your interest in Whitmor 6021-4298 Ebony Chrome Collection Extendable Garment Rack. Unfortunately, the chrome vertical pole could not be pushed down into the black vertical tube to make it shorter. The height is not adjustable in our newer models. It does feature an extendable upper hanging bar and wheels for easy mobility. If you have additional questions regarding this item feel free to contact our Customer Service Department, Monday-Friday 8am-4:30pm (CST) at (888) 944-8667 or email us at help@whitmor.com. Have a great day!
248484
The rubber bands are very easy to replace: just put them on the vertical support pieces (the ones with the pegs and the half-moon shaped cutout that rests on one of the dowels to keep the rack in the upright position). There's a pair of short (about 4" long) wooden pieces on the dowel that the vertical supports rest on - each serves as a "lock" to keep the vertical supports in place - rotate each one and fit it to the peg on the vertical support, then slide the rubber band over the two pieces. It'll still work fine without the rubber bands, but if you sometimes move the racks while they're set up, the rubber bands ensure that one or both of the supports don't come undone during this process (as someone who will occasionally load up my racks in the living room and then carry them out onto the back patio, I appreciate this feature as I have on occasion moved a rack with a missing rubber band and had that side collapse when I set the rack down - not a major inconvenience but nice to have the rubber bands to prevent it)
1551743
They haven't been an issue for me, but I adjusted the horizontal cross arm with the clamp on it out pretty far. I mainly did that so I can run the pedals and shift gears with the bike on the stand without the pedal on the stand side running into the vertical bar. I guess the added benefit of adjusting the bike farther away from the rack is that it keeps the stand legs out of the way also. The stand they show in the picture does not have the legs fully extended. When they are, it's a really wide base and I haven't had any issues with it wanting to tip over. I'm usually putting a MTB with 29" wheels on it so it's pretty heavy. I've also used the stand in my back yard on uneven surfaces and it's still pretty solid.
2076937
I figured it out! You need to be careful which end caps you put on which sides. The endcaps with the screw holes need to go on to the bottom. The casters screw into those screw holes. When my wife and I were assembling the clothing rack, we put the endcaps that were supposed to go on the top on the bottom and vice versa, meaning that the bottom didn't have anything to screw the casters into it. A little disassembly of the rack, a swapping of the endcaps, some reassembly, and we were back in business!