Hitachi C10FCE2 miter saw Anyone having problems with moving the clamp lever? I can't get it to move at all.
1193341
I think Mr. Hernandez meant the black clamp lever in the back of the saw. I found the answer we needed before he posted by reading all of the comments from other users. The trick was that you to turn the clamp lever in the reverse direction (counter-clockwise) than normal. I kept telling my husband to try counter-clockwise but he insisted that one ALWAYS tightens clamps or screws clockwise. Not this time. By the way, he loves the saw. Good luck.
1193342
I used the unit for the first time yesterday, and I also had trouble with the clamp lever initially. It required a HUGE amount of force to loosen the first time. Clearly their a bit overzealous in their tightening department at the factory. I literally have a bruise on the palm of my hand this morning. Once I got it loose the first time, it's been fine ever since then (because I don't overtighten it).
1193343
I searched around the internet to find the answer. To loosen the bevel clamp lever (the black plastic handle on the back for tilting the saw left and right) you need to turn the handle clockwise, the opposite of a regular screw, and also opposite of what the manual indicates. Hope that helps.
1193344
I also am unable to move the clamp lever on my Hitachi C10FCE2. Also, Mr Hernandez, there is no black knob on the back of mine. Has anyone had this problem and been able to solve it? (I'm hesitant to apply excessive force on the lever.)
1193345
My husband just unpacked his Hitachi C10FCE2 miter saw and also cannot get clamp lever to move. We can't find anything bolt or screw that needs to be adjusted in order to get this to move. Any suggestions....please?
1193346
As I said above, "The trick was that you to turn the clamp lever in the reverse direction (counter-clockwise) than normal." I just asked my husband if this was hard to do and he said "no" and didn't have to use any special tools to turn it. He also said to say that when you do start using the saw, sawdust will collect in the back channel and prevent you from getting full 45 degree travel, so be sure to vacuum out the sawdust every use or two.We installed solid wood flooring throughout our house this past winter, and this little saw was a dream for easily cutting each board to proper length. As I said above, "The trick was that you to turn the clamp lever in the reverse direction (counter-clockwise) than normal." I just asked my husband if this was hard to do and he said "no" and didn't have to use any special tools to turn it. He also said to say that when you do start using the saw, sawdust will collect in the back channel and prevent you from getting full 45 degree travel, so be sure to vacuum out the sawdust every use or two.We installed solid wood flooring throughout our house this past winter, and this little saw was a dream for... » Read More As I said above, "The trick was that you to turn the clamp lever in the reverse direction (counter-clockwise) than normal." I just asked my husband if this was hard to do and he said "no" and didn't have to use any special tools to turn it. He also said to say that when you do start using the saw, sawdust will collect in the back channel and prevent you from getting full 45 degree travel, so be sure to vacuum out the sawdust every use or two.We installed solid wood flooring throughout our house this past winter, and this little saw was a dream for easily cutting each board to proper length. « Show Less
1193347
Thank you, thank you, thank you -- I was feeling like an idiot. This might be a great saw once I get it together, but it has been incredibly frustrating trying to read the instructions. I was trying to adjust the 8mm bolts as discussed in the instruction manual, except the bolts are not in the same position on the saw as in the manual (I went online and downloaded a pdf of the manual which is the same, but I enlarged this section to 200%), and they are NOT 8 mm -- they are 13mm. So obviously they have machined the saw differently than when the manual was created. So working on the large black handle backwards (with a little extra torque) worked. Thank you again. Thank you, thank you, thank you -- I was feeling like an idiot. This might be a great saw once I get it together, but it has been incredibly frustrating trying to read the instructions. I was trying to adjust the 8mm bolts as discussed in the instruction manual, except the bolts are not in the same position on the saw as in the manual (I went online and downloaded a pdf of the manual which is the same, but I enlarged this section to 200%), and they are NOT 8 mm -- they are 13mm. So obviously they have machined the saw differently than when the manual was created. So working on the large... » Read More Thank you, thank you, thank you -- I was feeling like an idiot. This might be a great saw once I get it together, but it has been incredibly frustrating trying to read the instructions. I was trying to adjust the 8mm bolts as discussed in the instruction manual, except the bolts are not in the same position on the saw as in the manual (I went online and downloaded a pdf of the manual which is the same, but I enlarged this section to 200%), and they are NOT 8 mm -- they are 13mm. So obviously they have machined the saw differently than when the manual was created. So working on the large black handle backwards (with a little extra torque) worked. Thank you again. « Show Less
1193348
That black handle is 'reverse threaded'. LOOKING AT THE SAW FROM THE REAR, to loosen, you turn clock-wise. It's easier if you take off the black handle (large philips bit) and then use a 13mm wrench to break it loose for the first time. After that, just using the black handle should work fine.
1579497
I've owned this saw for years and for the past 2 I've used my thumb to manually raise the guard while pressing down on the handle until the bump in the guard slide passes the bearing. No one on my jobs has had a problem adapting, beside if you don't lift the guard slightly my saw will Not work.
52109
Same here; frustrating it does not open even with thorough cleaning and fresh batteries; I'm thinking of returning to step lever to open lid. How hard is that?
1468689
I used it for a Hitachi C10FSB. It works fine but I had to mount the rail clamps on an board since the holes did not align with the saw base.
42274
Tighten up the knobs. Mine work fine. I recall having a little hassle positioning the to exactly where I wanted them to be, but I haven't used the saw stops for about a year, so my recall is fuzzy. All multiples are identical. If you get looseness after tightening, then return the product for one that works.
266084
Thanks for the info! I opened up the housing and found that the plastic pin that forms a 'pivot' for the orange handle was partially broken. No hope of repair without buying new parts. So (like you), I rigged the switch to be permanently on! Still have all my fingers & toes after one mow.
1735253
For my table saw with a capacitor motor, I can't quickly press the "on" button. I have to hold this in for a second--until the motor builds up speed and the power draw (as judged by my lights dimming and then returning to normal) isn't as intense. Try holding it in for just a bit.
137389
Sometimes the little trigger gets stuck. Look under the handle at the switch and see if you can manually press it in or out.
1425427
I had exactly the same experience when I first got mine. The selector lever is very stiff and like you, I was afraid of breaking it. But that's the way it is, just go ahead and push it, and with enough force, it will move from one position to another. Even if it did break, I would assume it would be covered under the product warranty.
213633
Sorry if this sounds too basic but if you dont depress the silver button first then the levers wont go up enough to start the machine also check the circuit breaker in your homes panel. If its not either of those, I would return it. Mine runs great!
32557
I'm assuming that you're lifting the long black lever located on the back side of the blade shroud (I've been teaching the basics of power tools to a few dads that never owned one before). If it seems soft to the touch when you move it to an upward vertical position to adjust the blade depth, but the shoe fails to move, the lever has either come loose and backed off of the nut that tightens the depth adjustment. or it has been rounded out during assembly from being over-tightened. Other than that, this is the best explanation I can give you based on my ownership and experience of this same model. And I've had mine for over 7 years. I'm assuming that you're lifting the long black lever located on the back side of the blade shroud (I've been teaching the basics of power tools to a few dads that never owned one before). If it seems soft to the touch when you move it to an upward vertical position to adjust the blade depth, but the shoe fails to move, the lever has either come loose and backed off of the nut that tightens the depth adjustment. or it has been rounded out during assembly from being over-tightened. Other than that, this is the best explanation I can give you based on my ownership and experience of this same... » Read More I'm assuming that you're lifting the long black lever located on the back side of the blade shroud (I've been teaching the basics of power tools to a few dads that never owned one before). If it seems soft to the touch when you move it to an upward vertical position to adjust the blade depth, but the shoe fails to move, the lever has either come loose and backed off of the nut that tightens the depth adjustment. or it has been rounded out during assembly from being over-tightened. Other than that, this is the best explanation I can give you based on my ownership and experience of this same model. And I've had mine for over 7 years. « Show Less
527801
If it's clicking once every rotation of the metal ramp lever-arm (every ~5 minutes) it's an easy fix. Mine did that right out of the box- the metal lever-arm snaps in place on either side of the ramp. When I got mine I didn't realize one side had fallen out- it was off center and was clicking about its post. Snapped it back into place and the clicking was gone.
821049
Are you sure the gear is not broken. Check if you can move the lever backwards and forwards. If you can the try tightening the screw in its housing. If it does not work seek advice from the manufacturer.
877782
I too thought that the gearbox was broken. Turns out the gearbox speed change mechanism sometimes wouldn't engage fully whether pushing or pulling. Make the belts are aligned and the clutch knob is secure first. I found that if I spun the blade pulley slowly by hand while firmly engaging the clutch knob the internal gears would engage and viola! I now had the new speed. In time the gears should wear-in enough that speed changing will become much easier. I also make sure that power is disconnected from the saw before I grab the pulleys. Don't want to damage or lose any fingers.-Bud,
296272
Mine almost got stuck. The release lever is a bit flimsy but with care, it works. Rather stiff though...
1735486
I just had the same thing happen. The handle switch lever on my Black & Decker CMM1200 24-Volt Cordless Lawn Mower stopped working and I noticed the spring is broken. Does anyone know how to proceed in getting this piece fixed? Thanks! Black & Decker CMM1200 19-Inch 24-Volt Cordless Electric Mulching Lawn Mower
1304412
Carol, if you can't move the highth adjustment lever once you squeeze the handle together, you may have a similiar problem as Mr. Carson above you. It should move freely up and down with lowering being the easiest and raising being only slightly more labor intensive.