I just received these and am confused by the instructions on the bag. It says "1. Open the bag and remove dry packs. 2. Place them in the bag with items they are protecting 3. Heat seal the bag." What are they talking about? I am using this for a safe. Thought I'd take a few packets and put them in the bottom of the safe. What am I missing? I just received these and am confused by the instructions on the bag. It says "1. Open the bag and remove dry packs. 2. Place them in the bag with items they are protecting 3. Heat seal the... » Read More I just received these and am confused by the instructions on the bag. It says "1. Open the bag and remove dry packs. 2. Place them in the bag with items they are protecting 3. Heat seal the bag." What are they talking about? I am using this for a safe. Thought I'd take a few packets and put them in the bottom of the safe. What am I missing? « Show Less
1161939
The bags that you don't use you should reseal in a bag or heat seal(I just put them in a freezer bag...) so they stay fresh. The ones you put in your safe you just drop in.
1161940
I also use them in a safe. The reason for the heat sealing is to keep the rest of the packets from absorbing moisture from the air until you use them. I keep mine in a good sealed zip lock bag and make sure I get the air out of it. so far no problems. Hope this helps
75132
You will need much larger packs. Unless you put 20 - 30 of those in a safe. Buy bigger metal covered packs.
1161941
Your plan is fine .. the descriptions, I think, was in case you were storing times in a "Zip-Lock" and wanted to add a desiccant.
1448662
ditto - if this version has the notches in them, you twist the bag, then hook the twisted part into the notch on the ring. It's airtight - I have the Xodus Medical Inc. version and use them also to put my air activated Hot Hands hand warmer packets in them and seal them off, so i can use them again.
2161993
There were directions? Sorry, I just put the clothes, or blankets/towels in the bags and used a vacuum to seal them off. The smell wasn't 'musty', but smelled of the plastic chemical. They did wash out with only one washing in the washing machine, but inconvenient to have to wash perfectly clean clothes. And an FYI. I use these while traveling since I have a small car and need the space. I find if the bags are deflated and left in one place, they do better than if you have to move them around. Seems they do not do well with much moving around. Only the slightest micro tear will cause this to be null and void for why you bought it.
1079926
with a bag sealer....same way you close the food storage bag after placing the correct amount of absorbers in.
1450684
The instructions should be tucked inside the included shopping bag. I had the same issue and had even contacted the company and planned to return to Amazon before I discovered it! Good luck!
1607606
I open an end of the roll and slide the product I am going to seal in it. I then use scissors to cut an inch to an inch an 1/2 (maybe more until you get more confortable with it).. I then stick the cut end in the sealer, making sure the bag laps over the heat bar. Mine is an old sealer so after I punch the seal button I hold it down. The light will light up when it becomes totaly sealed on that end. Turn and seal the other end. I have had mine for twelve years.
1721211
Sounds like, for whatever reason, you're not getting a complete seal. If you're sealing liquids, the liquid can get in between the 2 sides you're attempting to seal. Once you seal, you can go back, slightly moving your bag a bit closer, and seal again. If I must seal liquids, I'll freeze them first. Then, remove from the original bag I froze them in, put them in a fresh bag, and seal before it starts to defrost. I hope this helps.
522412
I am not sure exactly what you are asking, so I will answer both possibilities. When using and sealing Mylar bags to store dry food such as rice, beans, pancake batter, etc. I seal most of a bag and then insert the oxy-absorber (one or more per bag depending on size) just before sealing the last section of the top of the mylar bag. Since the oxy-absorbers always seem to come in sealed packs of 10 or 20 at a time, and they need to be sealed as soon as possible before they get used up by the surrounding oxygen in the air, I use a stainless steel mason jar with a quick-seal glass lid that has a rubber seal to hold them once the original bag of oxy-absorbers is opened. As each Mylar bag is ready, I pop open the lid of the mason jar, grab the oxy-absorber and slide it into the mylar bag, then quickly seal the bag shut. The mason jar gets closed as fast as possible with each oxy-absorber taken out. The other possible answer has to do with saving the unused oxy-absorbers after all the mylar bags are done in one sitting. I haven't tried to do this, though I did once complain to a company that makes the oxy-absorbers that they should sell them in smaller sealed packages so you don't have to use all right away. They suggested I spend about $100 for an oxygen removing machine so I could reseal the unused absorbers for use later in their own mylar bag. I thought that was a dumb idea. In any case, the oxy-absorbers are pretty cheap and I just try to get several new mylar bags and supplies ready at a time so not too many are wasted and then just throw away the rest. I got the impression they wouldn't last in the mason jar for a long period of time.
1204183
I did not purchase this bag to act as a "safe" I already have two of those. This is simply a theft deterrent in a sense that someone would have to cut, rip or somehow break the bag to get to what's inside. the little laminate card holder is just plastic anyway, you could probably tear it with your teeth and have a good 3" slit into the bag. the same rip stop material is behind the card but you have to slide the card in from the top so that slit would be open if one were to tear the plastic part. I do not know if this is fireproof, but if that is the type of security you need, buy a fire "safe" I did not purchase this bag to act as a "safe" I already have two of those. This is simply a theft deterrent in a sense that someone would have to cut, rip or somehow break the bag to get to what's inside. the little laminate card holder is just plastic anyway, you could probably tear it with your teeth and have a good 3" slit into the bag. the same rip stop material is behind the card but you have to slide the card in from the top so that slit would be open if one were to tear the plastic part. I do not know if this is fireproof, but if that is the type of security you need,... » Read More I did not purchase this bag to act as a "safe" I already have two of those. This is simply a theft deterrent in a sense that someone would have to cut, rip or somehow break the bag to get to what's inside. the little laminate card holder is just plastic anyway, you could probably tear it with your teeth and have a good 3" slit into the bag. the same rip stop material is behind the card but you have to slide the card in from the top so that slit would be open if one were to tear the plastic part. I do not know if this is fireproof, but if that is the type of security you need, buy a fire "safe" « Show Less
1452911
There are two consumable parts in this type of bag sealer: The metal strip which acts as the heating element, and the teflon foil which lays over this heating strip so that the heating element does not come into direct contact with the plastic bag you are sealing and just melt right through it. How long these last depend on how much you use the sealer, and what setting you use. No company is ever going to warranty consumable items such as these. The unit comes with one spare of each item, and additional heating strips/teflon covers can be purchased separately. I have used similar sealers ( not this exact model, but the picture looks identical to the one I use, except mine has a sliding cutter attachment) to seal mylar bags for long term food storage. They do a good, but not great, job. The seal is a bit thinner in width than is optimal for sealing mylar bags (~ 1/8 " wide, when ~ 1/4 " wide seal is best). I seal twice, slightly offset, to be sure of the seal. The use of oxygen absorbers will create a light vacuum overnight (assuming you press out as much air as you can before sealing), and the presence of this vacuum is a good test of the seal. I get &gt; 95% success in creating a vacuum-tight seal this way, as long as the heating element and teflon foil are in good condition.
2161996
There were directions? Sorry, I just put the clothes, or blankets/towels in the bags and used a vacuum to seal them off. The smell wasn't 'musty', but smelled of the plastic chemical. They did wash out with only one washing in the washing machine, but inconvenient to have to wash perfectly clean clothes. And an FYI. I use these while traveling since I have a small car and need the space. I find if the bags are deflated and left in one place, they do better than if you have to move them around. Seems they do not do well with much moving around. Only the slightest micro tear will cause this to be null and void for why you bought it. There were directions? Sorry, I just put the clothes, or blankets/towels in the bags and used a vacuum to seal them off. The smell wasn't 'musty', but smelled of the plastic chemical. They did wash out with only one washing in the washing machine, but inconvenient to have to wash perfectly clean clothes. And an FYI. I use these while traveling since I have a small car and need the space. I find if the bags are deflated and left in one place, they do better than if you have to move them around. Seems they do not do well with much moving around. Only the slightest micro tear will cause this... » Read More There were directions? Sorry, I just put the clothes, or blankets/towels in the bags and used a vacuum to seal them off. The smell wasn't 'musty', but smelled of the plastic chemical. They did wash out with only one washing in the washing machine, but inconvenient to have to wash perfectly clean clothes. And an FYI. I use these while traveling since I have a small car and need the space. I find if the bags are deflated and left in one place, they do better than if you have to move them around. Seems they do not do well with much moving around. Only the slightest micro tear will cause this to be null and void for why you bought it. « Show Less
2077452
The key to getting a good seal is if the bag is not filled completely. I just squeeze the air out and roll the top over a couple of times and I get a perfectly dry seal every time.
524142
The adhesive is on the bag, which is user friendly. Just rip of the little strip and fold over. You and reopen and reseal bag.
1292415
I had 1 in the past that works better than this when did. It's supposed to melt the 2 sides of the plastic or the bag together to reseal it. But this 1 didn't work very well no matter how slowly or quickly I went and it has new batteries. Hope this helps you.
2116586
I simply re-seal the original bag with my foodsaver. You can't vac-pack it since the material has no texture but you just need to remove as much air as possible and seal the bag. Works great!
1201173
I reuse them all the time. I usually put the food in an open regular ziplock bag first (it lets the air out just fine). Sometimes several small bags in the vacuum bag. That lets me portion control and all I have to do is seal the inner to thaw and reseal and revacuum the outer bag. I have used them without the vacuum in a pinch. For fruit or other delicate item you could leave it without the vacuum. Better yet, just use the vacuum until the air is mostly out without crushing fruit. It works great for me.
2223279
Make sure the black tape is still in place, after getting the bag off, then reduce the amount of time for sealing. Also, allow some cooling down time in-between seals. This is not a commercial machine and it is made for domestic use.