What is the best way to route the cat 5 wires? From the outside or from the inside where the schematic is? It is not obvious to me which is best.
1474809
Hello, if I understand your question correctly, the best way to route the cat5 wires would be from the inside of this unit
1925791
I have the same question because I have a tool that works just fine with cat 5 cables, but with cat 6 STP I need something that will handle the thicker jacket. If I force the cable into the recess to strip off the outside, a traditional cutter will cut through the wires. Since the tool should be for both cutting, stripping the jacket and crimping, one that can squeeze the connector alone doesn't make it the right tool.
946271
CAT5 has 4 twisted pairs. They are twisted because of the interference or crosstalk between the wires. You might benefit from swapping some of the wires around. Likely, though, you would benefit from the shielding of RG59 or RG6 cable. Good luck if you haven't already figured it out.
946270
Cat5 on runs this long for this video with power will have signal loss, you need to be running Cat 6 or Cat 6E. Video signal is too great for a run that is this long. I installed this using baluns at a collision repair shop and the longest run was 150ft. I wouldn't push it much further than that unless you have a powered repeater.
1823615
cat 5e cables have too much radiation loss. Using cat 7 will solve your problem.
1586159
You can use either grade of cable. I have CAT5e connecting my modem to my router and used CAT6 cables when connecting from the router to the Linksys 5-port unit. The modem-router connections are much older than the 5-port, which was done this spring.
912961
Hi, thanks for your question. Our connection box is very versatile. It comes with a weatherproof shell and stainless steel mounting hardware. So you have a choice, you can either mount the connection box outdoors somewhere close to the camera, or if you prefer, you can fish the cable from the camera through a hole in the wall and mount the connection box indoors, skipping the weatherproof shell. In either case, you could use Cat5e as an alternative to the wireless connection. In fact the camera notices if you have a valid link on the Cat5e network cable and shuts down the wireless module when you have a wired network connection. Also, when you use Cat5e, you have 2 options for powering the camera. You can use the included AC adapter, or for an even neater installation, you can provide power and networking connectivity over the same Cat5e wire with a PoE capable network switch such as the Netgear GS-108PE (which can power 4 cameras). For a single camera you can also use a less expensive ($30) PoE injector such as the Dlink DWL-P200. Yes, this is our newest outdoor camera with full HD (1920 x 1080 resolution). We also have the SCNC3805 with 1280 x 720 resolution and the SCNC3705 and SCNC3706 with a razor-sharp 640 x 480 resolution.
718054
This is just normal UNSHIELDED cat 5. depends on what your wanting to use it for... I have these running my 2 FOSCAM security cameras but I also have them running outdoor inside plumbers PVC piping etc. So I have no interference with my single and video form outside elements etc. Hope this helps!
1769667
Cables like this allow the source to be from either direction. It is just wires... no matter which direction the signal comes from.
2103365
Google them. Each will carry different speeds. Cat6 is the fastest so if you are running at Cat6 speed and use a Cat5e the speed will be reduced. Cat6 is relatively new so I doubt you are running at that speed so it will probably work ok.
196479
When I ordered my box in August it was cat6. Said so on the box and the wires were marked as such. However I do not recall the description stating cat 5. I am sure if you ordered it and it was wrong Amazon would allow free shipping for the return. One thing to be mindful is that the order may not come with the crimped and ends (mine did not). Nevertheless when I called Amazon to complain they refunded me 20 bucks. Btw my Ethernet run in buried conduit spanned about 110 ft. No issues; everything works great.
1719264
The Ethernet is a punchdown connection - - that means you strip off Cat 5e "outer" shielding cable, making sure to have less than 1/2" of UNTWISTED wire exposed to keep within Cat 5e specs - - use the supplied plastic punch down tool to secure all 8 wire connects -- the wire color coding is for 568A, but you can wire for 568B as long as BOTH ends are A or B coded. If you don't know what I'm writing, then this is not for you.
632612
The standard says 102m (~340ft) is allowed, and (all 8 wires of) Cat-6 will let you push 1GHz in each direction. If you go longer, you're violating the Ethernet timing rules (the signal takes too long from one end to the other). A switch in the middle can extend that arbitrarily (just put one every 100m). Hubs don't, actually - this is not a signal attenuation issue, it's a timing one. But nobody uses hubs in high-speed Ethernet anymore.This means, by the way, that you can't just use a longer cable and run it at a "lower speed," like with serial lines. The speed of light is the same no matter how many bits you push through. It may *mostly* work on a longer cable, but it could also randomly grind to a halt. The standard says 102m (~340ft) is allowed, and (all 8 wires of) Cat-6 will let you push 1GHz in each direction. If you go longer, you're violating the Ethernet timing rules (the signal takes too long from one end to the other). A switch in the middle can extend that arbitrarily (just put one every 100m). Hubs don't, actually - this is not a signal attenuation issue, it's a timing one. But nobody uses hubs in high-speed Ethernet anymore.This means, by the way, that you can't just use a longer cable and run it at a "lower speed," like with serial lines. The speed of... » Read More The standard says 102m (~340ft) is allowed, and (all 8 wires of) Cat-6 will let you push 1GHz in each direction. If you go longer, you're violating the Ethernet timing rules (the signal takes too long from one end to the other). A switch in the middle can extend that arbitrarily (just put one every 100m). Hubs don't, actually - this is not a signal attenuation issue, it's a timing one. But nobody uses hubs in high-speed Ethernet anymore.This means, by the way, that you can't just use a longer cable and run it at a "lower speed," like with serial lines. The speed of light is the same no matter how many bits you push through. It may *mostly* work on a longer cable, but it could also randomly grind to a halt. « Show Less
1148896
If you have a piece of equipment, in my case it's my Directv receiver, that has an Ethernet port as its only way of connecting to the internet (or home network) and the piece of equipment is nowhere near an Ethernet port (Cat5 plug) in your house, this device will receive the wireless signal from your router and convert it to a CAT5 output that you then plug into the Ethernet port on your piece of equipment. Thus you avoid the need to hard wire.
1699406
All of the ports on this switch are treated the same so it doesn't matter which port comes from your router or which port goes to your other devices, like workstations, etc. Does that answer your question or did you mean which type of wire: Cat 5 or Cat 6?
490228
I have also run more like 75' of cat5e cable and mine is working fine. I would trust the long cat5 cable more than the wireless link. Tech support's 10' comment was off-base.
364121
They have pre-assembled connectors on both ends, so it's hard to tell. However, it should be within cat5e specification, and I have run POE devices over it without any problems so far. If I have occasion to cut any of the ends off I will let you know what I find...