Can anyone tell me how to align the blade to be parallel to the miter gauge slots in the table? Mine is out by about .012" front to back.
1459770
You folks are referencing a different saw. This one does not have miter gauge slots on the table. If you're trying to get the blade parallel to the rip fence, you can just slightly move the rip fence when locking it in place, as in every table saw. Check your saw to verify the model number for better help.
1459771
Good question. My Mikita 10" table saw has been experiencing slight misalignment. Also, the fence measurement is off about 1/4" inch. Answer: I haven't the foggiest idea.
1459772
It isn't easy, but it is doable. On the underside of the table there is an adjustment block. Best way to locate is check the illustrated parts manual which is on the Makita site. Loosen the two bolts and move the block and tighten. This appears to change .010 to .012 of an inch so should solve your problem.
1459773
On saw if I got it correct for 90 degrees when it was put to 45 degrees it was off again. Price of crap and I sold it
666529
I wouldnt be to concerened with adjusting the blade to the miter slot, not important. Adjust your fence to the blade, because that is what you guild off of not the slot. 1/64 off is not bad for a contractor grade saw that is portable.
947197
The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material... » Read More The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. « Show Less
589863
Hi David I just had a look at the DW7480 saw, it seems very similar to my DW745. As long as the mitre slots are 3/4 inch wide and 3/8inch deep it should fit. I think it is a must have accessory to a table saw. Best Wishes David C
2206991
Check the width and depth of the miter slots on the saw; it should fit. Most high-quality table saws, unless they have T-slot miter grooves, should be able to accept the Incra miter gauges. My personal experience was with a less-expensive table saw with a shallow T-slot groove. Incra's terse response to my query about how to adapt was "We do not make custom slides." That put me off a bit, but I milled my own slide and am happy with the accuracy and quality of the rest of the gauge overall.
1662638
The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in alignment.Best of luck , it's probably a keeper and everyone goes thru a learning curve with band saws not just you.Don The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in... » Read More The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in alignment.Best of luck , it's probably a keeper and everyone goes thru a learning curve with band saws not just you.Don « Show Less
1395392
Paul, sorry for the delay. A busy time of year for a minister. I'm not exactly sure about your question, so if you give me a little clarity I'll do my best. Taking a guess at what you might mean, there is a place to hold/store the miter gauge, on the right side. Is this what you mean? Or, do you mean to secured the angles cut (yes). Looking just now at the other response, I assume you mean to extend the gauge. Correct you can add, or clamp your own. Pls respond directly if you wish to revmike@churchonthepark. Merry Christmas.
1753155
I agree with Steve and I too am no expert, but also, try taking just 1/32 per pass and make sure the grain is going in the right direction. If it's not, it will be harder to do and the finish will be poor. Try not to put too much downward pressure on top of the blade, concentrate more on the outfeed table. There's good info on the web on how to use the jointer, and it takes a little practice. Good luck!
819715
I have the same saw. Check out Home Depot. I bought what's called a Universal Edge Guide. I had to do some minor filling on the mounting slots of the shoe of the saw. Works great!
2106487
I run my ten inch hitachi miter saw on it. Had to mount it to a piece of 3/4 plywood then mounted stand feet to the plywood!! Works great!
1481664
I'm assuming you mean the "cut line " on the table. Make sure the spacers on the arbor are in the correct order. Maybe yours was shipped with out the correct ones. If all else fails, return it. This is a great saw
947198
If the miter slots on your table saw are 3/4 it should be OK. Manufacturers made miter slots in 5/8 and 3/4, and the jig has a miter guide that is 3/4.
1877735
I just unboxed mine and used it yesterday. The table slides towards the blade.
1226040
Dewalt said it would so I purchased it. It doesn't seem to be lining up with dado blade. Returning to amazon. I might get a wood throat plate that I can just run the dado up through. Should have a tighter fit between blade and plate.
2090990
The slot mentioned in Greg's answer is the slot in the blue plastic featherboard assembly through which the bolt passes. If I install this pair of featherboards into the miter slot on my table saw and extend the pair of them as far toward the blade as they will go and then place a straight edge across the tips of the feathers, then the distance from that straight edge to the nearest edge of the miter slot is 6-5/16". You would need to reduce this distance slightly to put some flex into the feathers to have the featherboards function as intended.
531625
Yes. What I did was took the guide bar off and used a sanding disk (a belt sander would work also, just be careful that you don't sand your fingers) and sanded off enough to make it fit the miter channel.
1991496
I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced... » Read More I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. « Show Less