where does the DE terminal hook up to. no diagram for the 145 amp alt. the 2 plug connector has ignition on has 12 volts
1451679
Hi, I might be able to help. "B1" & "B2" go to the individuals batteries of course. "A" is the charging wire from your alternator and DE is the exciter wire that turns on your unit. Use a 16 or 14 ga wire (and connectors) to your fuse box and find a circuit that come "on" or is hot when your ignition is on. Piggy-back on to this circuit. You can also get a special piggy-back adaptor from your local auto parts store. This will turn on your isolator when (and only when) the key circuit is on or the vehicle is running and off when your ignition is off. Great unit and has worked well for me for almost 2 years. Let me know if I can help any further. Chris
1235088
It sounds like you might be trying to make an extension cable of sorts. If this is the case, I would instead use a product like http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Cable-Female-Power-Cable-Eccom-3/dp/B004STXSZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378741707&sr=8-1&keywords=iec+female. If this is not your plan, I will give basic wiring instructions. On the rear (non-visible) side of the connector there are pins which work great with pins like http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-20-145F-Terminal-Disconnects/dp/B000FKF7CG/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1378742996&sr=8-47&keywords=gauge+terminal. Otherwise, looking at the image, the posts from left to right are: Neutral, Ground, and Line. I hope this helps1
872619
Just an update to my earlier post. Each fuse has it's own circuit/power source. On my 5'er I just unplugged the existing wires and attached them to the terminals on the new panel.
587727
I'm not happy about the fact that there is no paperwork. You may have figured out the basis: +V is 12vdc in and GND is the ground. Terminal 1=N.O., 2=Com, 3=N.C. for relay "C" the rest follow 4,5 & 6 for relay "A"; 7,8 & 9 for relay "D" and 10,11 &12 for relay "B" . Jumper 4&3 for momentary (Only ON while button is pressed) jump 1&2 for press ON and hold ON then press again to release relay. Button S1 I haven't figured out. I will. Experiment, you can't blow it up.
1030541
Haven't churches the voltage output but there it's accessory connectors on the wiring harness
675636
Shoot me an email to david@incendiaarms.com and I will send you a picture of mine tomorrow showing how to wire it up. I just bought this exact same PID a month or so ago and I would be happy to help you out.
1993705
A junk yard...I didn't even bother though. I looked up a thread on an Audi forum and found which wires were power and ground..then I just used my old connector. All you have to do is move the wires in the connector. What type of car do you have? If you can tell me that I can help you a little better.
1805582
I grounded the switch panel to the ground on my harness wire from the engine. All the attachments like lights and other items, those are grounded to a small bus bar that I then grounded to the neg batt terminal.
1070555
It's the terminals that have the connecting wires underneath the terminals. I had to return both of mine because they were marked 110/120 volt coil, but in reality they were 24 volt coils and will burn up when connected to 120 volts. Your hopefully are correctly marked.Hope this helpsBobby
175309
I purchased mine as a spare and have not installed it yet. I looked at the hookup before buying, if not a link via the Amazon site, it may have been on the Grote site. Is very simple, but you do have to locate a hot wire that is ignition switched to turn the power on and off. Rich
1591304
Nope! I went ahead and took the pig tails from the ac adapter and exposed the bare wire and made my own adapters. Or I supposed you could also do a terminal block and wire it all in that way.
1002136
Included is the wiring for this. You need to connect to a positive, battery terminal, and a ground.
782774
No sweat...most important step that most people skip is hook up to battery with no less than #4 welding cable. # 2 is what i used and never had an issue powering anything. If you cheat on this, it will kick out on you constantly. Auto parts store will have dual batt terminals for a few bucks for hook up. Sweet unit...:)
1444619
We asked the source for a wiring diagram but never got one. We no longer have the switch at hand so i can't give you the exact pin functions but I recall that there are 2 terminals marked + and - to access the LED light. Depending on the DC source availble you will likely have to place a resistor in series with one of these to get the brightness you need. The other 6 terminals are two DPDT switches. You'll need an ohmmeter to determine which are the NC (normally closed) and which the NO (normally open contacts and which are the poles.
719773
Dear It will be fit to the battery terminal + for red - for black it will be important to fix a fuse in +terminal . Then you can plug your divice to get 5 v power .
1973380
Looking at bottom of switch with the two terminals on the same side on the top to the right and the separate terminal to the left. Top right terminal is your 12Vdc output to your desired equipment. The next terminal just below the top terminal on the right is your 12Vdc source. The bottom left separate terminal is ground. I've had it mounted in a John Deere 2305 to operate an Ag sprayer for about 6 months. It works great. Also, my source power is powered from the fuse box source and goes through a 15 amp auto type fuse. I had pictures, but it seems this doesn't allow pictures.
1080163
You need to purchase another cable for between the battery and the switch and then the other terminal on the switch connects to the car with the existing + wire. You will prob have to change the connector to attach to the existing wire.