What's the trick to swapping out the shelf? I don't want to tear out any stitching, but it's really tight.
1452358
The removal and replacement of the wooden insert is really simple but not very intuitive. Take the insert and push the entire insert into the 'pocket' that holds the back of the insert. You can then slide the insert over to one side and it will easily come out. Here is a URL to a youtube video showing how it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlAS3miu2S8Thank!MoBamboosa
1452359
first you push it in towards the center, then slide either end to the side until you can see the other end, and then pull out. It does seem tight, but you won't break it. I've taken mine out several times to add more shells, as I like my "log" fairly tight. HTH
1452360
There is a zipper hidden at one end below the fabric handle. I have not tried to swap any shells, but it looks pretty easy to me.
1642281
I've had mine about five months but haven't experienced any sagging..... yet. Perhaps taking a piece of angle iron the length of the bottom shelf and fastening it to the underside with #10 X 1/2 panhead screws set into pre-drilled holes would work. Or, a simpler yet more intrusive fix would be to use a 2 X 3 or 2 X 4 instead and staining it to match. You can try an even simpler approach. Just prop up the bottom shelf with a piece of 2 X 2 run vertically from the desktop to the under side of the shelf. This will work like a basic column but will also be the most intrusive way to go. But give it some time first and don't overload it. You may never have any problems after all.
1655411
Maybe you used one or two tubular segments in the wrong place. Look at the pictures showing the different parts and their measurements (A B C D E F G H. They all have slightly different lengths. Switching one for the other is enough to make a shelf uneven. Make sure you used the right parts in the right places.
123445
I ran into the same issue. After I got the rest of it tightened, I laid the whole thing down horizontally, undid the screws that were holding those two L & R legs, made sure the leg pieces were then flush, and put the screws back in. This time, with the whole thing horizontal, it was much easier to screw the screws/bolts together. And I had to get it SUPER tight before it wasn't wobbly. But it did eventually work great. Hope this helps!
1388182
this happened to me too--and it's absolutely ridiculous. How hard is it to supply screws that won't split the wood? I'm thinking about just dumping it out, or giving it to someone who has smaller screws.
738664
When I first opened the box, I recall I tried to remove those screws, too, as it seemed the intuitive thing to do. It's not. Those screws stay in the unit. After looking at the instructions and the wall hanger more closely I figured it out, but it's been so long that I don't recall exactly what I did. Sorry-that's the best I can do...
868885
Screw a screw into the center and once snug, pull it out. It may require a bit of muscle but it will come out. Use a large pair of pliers. Good luck
39974
I think you have to exend yours out to make it tighter. I made mine pretty taut. First, unscrew it so that it'sabout 4-6' wider than the space, then compress it so that it fits in snugly.
427503
Initially, there was a little stiffness but there is no release that I am aware of. My shelf moves smoothly and is very sturdy. Try sliding the shelf backward. (It is very easy to get confused when attaching the slides to the edges of the shelf. When marking the drill holes on the desk, the slides should be in the closed position. The end-caps on the innermost slides should be facing front. In use, the slides extend the shelf in one direction only.) If the shelf moves backward -- or the end-caps are in the back -- you have the slides reversed. If you decide to just turn the whole unit around, you'll be resting your palms on the sharp edge of the shelf. You'll have to actually trade the slides to make sure the front of the shelf (with rounded edges) is facing you. If none of the above explains your problem, then I have one other suggestion. It is extremely important to be careful about marking and pre-drilling the screw holes. (Both mark and MEASURE before drilling.) If the L brackets are not perfectly perpendicular to the desktop and parallel (and equidistant) with each other, torque may prevent the glides from sliding in their channels. Good luck.
1990842
I have used a rubber mallet and gently tapped the shelves beginning with the top shelf loosening one corner at a time and then working my way down the unit. Just take your time. Perhaps laying the shelf unit on its side would make the job even easier.
1011190
I don't have mine open now, but recall that the secret was to remove more screws and wires, which I think allowed separating the desired section. I initially tried what looked like the easy way with just a few screws, but the opening was not large enough to take it out that way, because protruding parts prevented mine from sliding out. If that's not clear enough, I can open mine again to refresh my memory.
1040287
You should be able to take that shelf out. It not as long as you have the clearance under the shelf you should be good toninstall this and use the top shelf.
1911048
As my husbands aunt says "There's an art to everything". You really need to seat the the bottom of the "shelf" in the bracket. Once you get it seated correctly it is rock solid. There is a lever that you have to pull open all the way. It is a bit tricky.
1340840
Try switching around the feet and don't tighten anything until you get all the bolts through. If anything, you might have to drill a little, but I didn't have to. Just keep it kinda loose, until you get everything in.
1160726
Ours just pushed and snapped in. Don't think there are any threads in there. Not moving mine anyway, but nice to have the option if I had to. I believe the weight just secures the wheels to stay in place. Shelves are now holding a lot of stuff! Very happy with this unit. Nice and sturdy.
1215684
I haven't had to disassemble ours, so I can't say definitively. Almost all of the various bars and shelves are held into the connecting brackets by pressure. For things to fit securely many recommend using a rubber mallet to tap them into place. I'm sure with a little force they would slide apart. If you're frequently assembling and disassembling the unit though, these connection points may loosen over time. That wouldn't matter so much with the vertical pieces, as long as you're not planning on going a great deal of weight on the shelves. It would be more critical on the horizontal connections, but if you have a vehicle which would allow you to leave those sections connected, they would lay flat anyway. I haven't had to disassemble ours, so I can't say definitively. Almost all of the various bars and shelves are held into the connecting brackets by pressure. For things to fit securely many recommend using a rubber mallet to tap them into place. I'm sure with a little force they would slide apart. If you're frequently assembling and disassembling the unit though, these connection points may loosen over time. That wouldn't matter so much with the vertical pieces, as long as you're not planning on going a great deal of weight on the shelves. It would be more critical on the horizontal... » Read More I haven't had to disassemble ours, so I can't say definitively. Almost all of the various bars and shelves are held into the connecting brackets by pressure. For things to fit securely many recommend using a rubber mallet to tap them into place. I'm sure with a little force they would slide apart. If you're frequently assembling and disassembling the unit though, these connection points may loosen over time. That wouldn't matter so much with the vertical pieces, as long as you're not planning on going a great deal of weight on the shelves. It would be more critical on the horizontal connections, but if you have a vehicle which would allow you to leave those sections connected, they would lay flat anyway. « Show Less
353755
once you put the piece that the shelf can be either higher or lower on wall with the screws then that piece is stable to wall. then put the V-shape arm on and screw it to the piece that can be higher or lowered.once you figure out if you want the high, middle, lowest place for shelf to set then you tighten the screws.[this makes arm sit stable, then screw glass to the v arm and tighten the screws. it should be stable then. the caps being on you are right, there is no where for the cord to run [at least not on my wall and the way it is flushed to the wall] but here i didn't put my shelf up or under anything, i have my shelf sitting to the side above the tv. only because didn't have room to go under or above the tv. and the cords they running off the back to one side and used a rubber thing with holes for screws to hold all cords together and screwed that to wall which is behind tv and then went down so far and used black zipped tides to hole cords together and cut them off so that pieces doesn't stick out and plug in. the cords are still hide by tv but can see them little bit coming from whatever is sitting on the shelf. but not too noticeable that i cant live with and did this because never figured out how cords run down though the thing when there are screws going though to wall stopping cords for going though and couldn't figured out how to run down where corner of cap goes and come out at bottom. but then figured out that you place cords under at sides and then tighten the screws to the wall [but cap part aint sure if doing this can get use them,might have to leave off. but had already did what i did saying the heck with it and shelf tight and stable and holding box im happy and it don't look bad at all to me and everything working out just fine. [people cant walk behind or under my tv so its all good. i hope this helps you and everything works out for you and you enjoy your shelf as much as i do. myself i don't see how i could have picked a better shelf then this.