Is this unit a good fit for a two bath four person home that is getting killed in every bill using an conventional electric water heater
1484508
It is suitable as far as not ever running out of hot water. Your problem may come because it doesn't run out of hot water people can take in a crazy long shower which could ultimately result in a higher Electric bill. We noticed a much higher bill when our daughter was home from college because she loves very long showers. But overall I think it has saved us a lot of money. We have two baths the washer and dryer and dishwasher and never have a shortage of hot water.
1484509
The unit should be more than enough for a two bath system. Electric consumption will depend on how long each personis in the shower. What you won't pay for is heating the water tank when no one is using water. Hope this helps.
1484510
It has been the best home investment every not wasting money heating water all the time. warm weather hot water in 45 seconds. cold weather 90 seconds.if installed properly maintenance free. 1 time a year clean inlet strainer. also we have ran a dishwasher, washing machine, and a person showering with no issues.and have had 2 people showering no issues. 2 bed 2 1/2 bath 2 people. 4 people when family visits and no issues and never run out of hot water and saved $15 to $20 a month in electric.
153881
We use ours for our whole house (1200 sq ft), so you might consider just replacing the 50 gal water heater. Use the Stiebel Eltron website to size a unit to your house specifics though. http://www.stiebel-eltron-usa.com/chart_tempra.html
81916
no,keep it simple buy what is designated for your heater read info. on this one,just in case here it is,Don't buy this one unless you buy a new water heater and have someone qualified to run a new line that is 240v(10,000 watts, 40 amps, 250 volts, 60Hz capacity)
876173
Resistance of the heater, R = (240 V)^2 / 5500 W = 10.47 ohm Current draw, I = V/R = (110 V) / (10.47 ohm) = 10.50 amp Heating Power at 110 V, P = (110 V)^2 / (10.47 ohm) = 1155 W, 21% of rated power. Normal wiring will be fine, just make sure its rated above 10.5 amp, 14 AWG or thicker should be sufficient. A standard 15 amp circuit will work, but your water will heat up slowly, 7.6 seconds per gallon per degree Fahrenheit At 240 V your heat up rate would be 1.6 seconds per gallon per degree Fahrenheit
127869
Without a doubt. We have a large family and since its hot water on demand we never run out. As far as we can tell the unit has never run at full power anyhow.
153878
Yes. I use it for my whole house. If I have more than 2 faucets running the pressure drops do to the heating element slowing down the water.
153880
Certainly. It may be overkill- it's a powerful little heater that suits my whole (very small) cabin.... With washer, kitchen and 1 bath
1011341
no. basically what this unit does is keep water from a more distant water heater warm, so that you do not need to wait as long. I think that it would be very poor for what you want.
2047094
Yes, it's more than enough. When we lost power this past winter, I had this running my furnace, well pump, hot water heater as well as the bathroom lights so we could take showers. The only thing this could not run was our electric range. Everything else worked well with this model.
2202833
I have it in a 3 BR 1 bath rental property with 3 people. They take showers one right after the other and said they don't run out of hot water whatsoever. It seems to do wonderful there. its been installed now for 5 months and no problems, tenants are very happy with it. I had to buyer the gas line, plumbing etc to where it tied in, but that's normal with any new installation. It was a tremendous savings over a traditional water heater, and the tenants and I are very glad we installed it. So much so, that I am installing the same one in a diner I own for the dishwasher. I think it will work great. Hope that helps. I have it in a 3 BR 1 bath rental property with 3 people. They take showers one right after the other and said they don't run out of hot water whatsoever. It seems to do wonderful there. its been installed now for 5 months and no problems, tenants are very happy with it. I had to buyer the gas line, plumbing etc to where it tied in, but that's normal with any new installation. It was a tremendous savings over a traditional water heater, and the tenants and I are very glad we installed it. So much so, that I am installing the same one in a diner I own for the dishwasher. I think it will work... » Read More I have it in a 3 BR 1 bath rental property with 3 people. They take showers one right after the other and said they don't run out of hot water whatsoever. It seems to do wonderful there. its been installed now for 5 months and no problems, tenants are very happy with it. I had to buyer the gas line, plumbing etc to where it tied in, but that's normal with any new installation. It was a tremendous savings over a traditional water heater, and the tenants and I are very glad we installed it. So much so, that I am installing the same one in a diner I own for the dishwasher. I think it will work great. Hope that helps. « Show Less
1155907
Read all four previous posts. Every one of them contains good ideas. I too would be careful running a 2000 watt heater through a conventional wall switch without at least asking an electrician if that's something one should do. drtoom
296363
This is the best standalone heater I ever owned, that said: Bathroom heating is always tricky in order to be safe. Water is such a good conductor and in the bathroom it is always a factor. This unit is a stand up floor heater and I wouldn't put any electrical appliance on the bath floor or in proximity to the bath or shower (even with GFI's). There are wall mounted devices specifically designed for the Bathroom available.
64543
A handy homeowner's skills are good enough to install that unit. Few key tasks: cutting the air ducts, connecting the water supply, connecting the water return, connecting the electric 120V-to-24V transformer. My unit covers the first floor of my 3500 sq ft house...
1686986
The water heater element is rated at 1650 watts and at 120 volts it will draw 13.75 amps. At alower voltage it will draw less because the resistance of the heating element is calabrated at 120 volts which is the standard for all power companies. A 20 amp circuit with 12 (awg) american wire-gauge wire is required. If you plan to connect it to an existing kitchen circuit please turn off all other appliances on that circuit. I recommend a dedicated circuit for this heater. After all this is done it works well for the kitchen sink and dishwasher. Enjoy. Al S. EE
1827129
This unit is for a house with 2 bath plus kitchen. If you have similar use it will work fine
849010
Most systems must be installed by a licensed contractor and have a permit to collect the rebates. This insures that the inspector has verified that the system was installed correctly. If you must have a 14 SEER, then getting a 15 SEER would be best to make sure that you at least meet the standards. 16 SEER will meet those standards, and save even more energy, yet is much more expensive. Sometimes a 14 SEER system will not meet the 14 SEER rating due to smaller air ducts, or other problems. Also how many square feet are you trying to heat and cool? What state are you in? This will help verify if the system is sized properly. Also do you plan on installing back up heater? If so what size? I disconnected my 20 KW electric heater when installing my 4 ton heat pump. For back up heat, I will use one section of the 20 KW, and disconnected 1/2 of that, giving me a primary 5 KW electric heat back up. Then have a 10 minute time delay, so that the other 10 KW heater contactor will energize to provide another 34,000 Btu's of heat when it is calling for heat more than 10 minutes. I could have wired the 5 KW heater to run at the same time as the heat pump is in defrost, however I decided I would rather have 5-7 minutes of cold air and save the energy. My 4 ton heat pump makes about 48,000 BtuH of heating, at 55F outside air temp, then will defrost for about 2-3 minutes per hour (at 55F outside air temp). During defrost, it reverses to cooling cycle, and will blow out cold air (if it is 70F inside the home, it will blow out 50F air for a few minutes). By running a 5 KW electric heater ($0.50 to $0.75 per hour - depending on local electric costs) this can warm the air to about 65F while in defrost. I am just cheap and want to save the money! If my family complains to much, I might have to run the 5 KW heater during defrost.
1542428
I would not suggest it. Few things. 1.) There are three heating "silos" within the unit one for each breaker. So one "silos" wouldn't be doing anything unless you got fancy with the wiring. 2.) I think the device uses only as many breakers as it needs, so if the water is unusually warm I can see it only pulling power from one breaker until it hits the set temperature. If the water is unusually cold it will pull from all three until it hits the set temperature. 3.) I do not believe the wiring within the unit is rated for 6-2 so you would probably mess something up.