Can you use this to seal an indoor painted concrete floor? The floor was painted with floor paint and has a decorative stencil on it.
1448649
No. Painted surfaces tend to be non-porous. This stuff works best on unsealed concrete, wood decks and pavers. It needs to be absorbed by the material to be 100% effective.
1448650
Yes, I believe so. I used it to seal a painted troth of the water feature in my back garden
1503826
yes, we used the glue recommended by manufacturer. The floor looks great and hold up real well. We put in a 1 -3 grade classroom.
1241381
I really don't know. I would probably go to a paint store & ask a professional. I have painted concrete before & due to the moisture level had difficulties. Bleach can usually get rid of urine smells but there are other products specifically for this. If the concrete is dry enough, there are paint/sealer products that work well. Ask a real paint pro & good luck.
1229904
I did a large concrete floor with no problem. Took a day or two to stick well. I would have a two sided tape on hand for tiles you have to cut.Good luck
696183
It has a special coating. Normal paint wouldn't do the job. If you try then practice on the inside maybe first.
518007
Before you recoat, the paint that you have on the floor MUST be in good shape. No peeling or chipping. There is a test where you take a razor knife and make an X in your old paint, then cover the X with duct tape then pull up tape and if it is less than 10% (I am not sure it could have been a little more than 10%) that comes up with tape, you are good to start prepping the floor. Sand the entire floor with 60 grit paper. You can use a electric sander. Rough up the original coating and clean dust WELL. Vacuum, Dust Mop and rinse and dry. There can be no residue on floor. Now you can apply Rust-Oleum solvent based floor coating NOT WATER BASE. I know this sounds like a lot of work but it beats the highly dusty mess from using a diamond sander to remove old coating to bare concrete. This Rust-Oleum solvent based floor paint is an excellent product and for me the coverage was more than advertised.
1874461
HI Jack You can paint over this product because it does not have repellent properties. However, i recommend waiting for a couple of days after application to see if any white residue is expelled from the concrete. Regards Mike Stone Technologies Corp 423-503-4490
1494025
I see no reason why you couldn't.. I would create a test "patch" and try it out. Might absorb differently than the existing concrete, so be aware of that. That would make the color a bit off. May need an extra coat, etc..
2281653
it might not work as unfinished floor/concrete will not give you a smooth surface to stick and uniform look. also it can easily tear.
1592621
I'm not sure if what I used was epoxy, but I used an industrial sealant on my garage floor. It didn't change the color but it made it look like it was wet and it made sweeping and using a squeegee great. Anyway, I applied 3 of them and they worked and continue to work great 3 years later, but one of them eventually did come lose. This was because the area where I put it, the concrete was uneven so the entire thing wasn't adhered. Anyway, that one stayed put for over a year before it came off and it did not remove any of my sealant.
978192
You need to look at the Manufactures site, as they show you, to spray it on Concrete. By doing this it is sealing your application. If you spray it on plastic, my thoughts it would just fall to the bottom on the floor. But to have the best insulation factor and solution, I would spray it on the concrete. If it is a basement and you are building walls. I believe they advise to frame the wall out from the concrete wall and allow the foam to go in back of the framing. This way the wood is NOT on concrete, that could have moisture in it and transfer to your wood.
256930
I used it to seal my basement cement walls behind the insulation and sheet rock. After it dries I can see no reason why you would not be able to paint over it. I applied 2 coats and it works great.
461947
We have used the tile on our garage floor(cement)...as we turned the garage into a playroom. We glued the carpet tiles down and it workers perfectly!
526800
Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely to leave some evidence of your retouching effort. I'd do the entire floor if possible. Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely... » Read More Although I have not used this product on floors, my experience with it suggests that it isn't going to give you the results you want. At the very least, there will be some overspray of the surrounding area that will make the areas you've tried to seal very conspicuous. At the very least, I would recommend that you use a brush-on product that you can control and then finish the result by sanding with a very fine grit and steel wool. You can repeat the process until you blend the edges of the newly finished area into the older finish. Anything short of refinishing the entire floor is likely to leave some evidence of your retouching effort. I'd do the entire floor if possible. « Show Less
514281
It will enhance the gloss look as well as provide a little of additional protection. When I did my floor I've used the Rust-Oleum Professional kits in gray. After doing two coats of the Pro kit the shine was there but some spots had a little duller look to it. After applying this gloss kit it really brought the look of the floor to a nice consistent shine all around. I'm sure you might have heard before but the key in a long lasting finish is the prep as well as using a decent quality product. Stay away from water based and use solids based stuff. My garage floor was a 30 year old bare concrete slab which came out great in the end. My prep involved a floor buffer with a diamond wheel, then pressure washed it few times as well as concrete etch. Here's a picture of the floor after two coats of Professional kit: http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5161.jpg Here's a picture of the floor after the Clear Shield: http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5169.jpg http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5166.jpg
739437
The problem with most floor coatings is getting them to adhere over the long haul. I don't think stain would be a problem but the coating on top like clear coat and wax may be. When I apply it on other than a new floor I use a floor grinder to be sure and provide a keyed surface after filling all the cracks. This coating is very industrial - it is opaque grey - it is great in a garage but I am not sure I would use it in another room especially if it was stained already.
2044950
I'd use the primer for it before doing so, but I see no reason it can't be after that, as thats what I did. But you'd also want to "level" the joints in the existing tile before you do, so its not as simple as peel and stick if you want it right.