i don't have a well; I have a catchment tank. I use a Paloma &amp; was told I need min. 4 GPM to keep H2O hot. Will this unit replace my old tank &amp; pump?
753252
Sir, I live by the Grand Canyon. Everyone heare uses a shallow well pump. The water tanks are buried 34" in the ground for a rise of three feet to the pump and then the house. This is a shallow well system. It has no effect on your hot water. The flow rate, 4GPM is irrelevant. The pump has an internal pressure gauge to deliver approximately 40 GPM to your home
75948
The output of the pump is 3.0 gallons a minute. Your supply water should exceed that. I would not trust a gravity flow to supply the pump. Keep in mind that when your water level drops in your tank the water flows slower to your pump. Too little flow to your pressure washer equals a burnt up pump. My short answer is no. It cannot. It's a great pressure washer tho.
169360
we have an electric tank less that is rated at 4.5 GPM. We have very hard water in this part of MA and also have a well. We have been in this house for 30 years and have had problems with pipes rotting away. When we installed the electric tank less we installed this filter also. We used the heater for a few months and than had the plumber perform the maintenance suggested by the tank less mfg. It was clean as a whistle. Our flow rate is not as high as yours but if you had one in line with each heater - i would think it would work fine. Our heater used 120A for 4.5 GPM - if yours is electric it most use a lot of power! For our use I am very satisfied with the filter and given our water quality situation and how clean the heater was - i would highly recommend this filter. KR in MA
1403804
I'm not sure how you want to use this system, but if you are using it directly after your well pump, remember it is only a 75 GPD. With that said, if you don't have a pressure tank in your well system, you may want to consider getting one to put somewhere upstream of the RO unit. I agree with the other gentleman who suggested treating the water prior to running it through your system, be it water softener or whole house filtration, something to extend the life of your membrane. Also, may want to get a tester or have your water tested to determine the effectiveness of the system wherever you decide to use it. Without understanding more of your situation, hope this info helps! Good luck! I'm not sure how you want to use this system, but if you are using it directly after your well pump, remember it is only a 75 GPD. With that said, if you don't have a pressure tank in your well system, you may want to consider getting one to put somewhere upstream of the RO unit. I agree with the other gentleman who suggested treating the water prior to running it through your system, be it water softener or whole house filtration, something to extend the life of your membrane. Also, may want to get a tester or have your water tested to determine the effectiveness of the system wherever you... » Read More I'm not sure how you want to use this system, but if you are using it directly after your well pump, remember it is only a 75 GPD. With that said, if you don't have a pressure tank in your well system, you may want to consider getting one to put somewhere upstream of the RO unit. I agree with the other gentleman who suggested treating the water prior to running it through your system, be it water softener or whole house filtration, something to extend the life of your membrane. Also, may want to get a tester or have your water tested to determine the effectiveness of the system wherever you decide to use it. Without understanding more of your situation, hope this info helps! Good luck! « Show Less
1943744
Unless you're an engineer who likes doing flow dynamics equations (I am &#128521;), the GPM really isn't that important. This is a recirculating pump, NOT an evacuation pump. Less is better as more than adequate generates high electric usage. But for the layman, here's a simple answer. I have a 7,000 Sq ft house, 2 stories 30' high to roof. The the Laing LH08100092 is able to placed at the farthest point away from the water heater, upstairs in a bedroom. That little quiet running electric pump is able to pull the water 100' horizontally and 25' vertically and deliver almost instant hot water. Now the question is does your requirements EXCEED these conditions? BTW, I leave my pump on 24/7 even though it comes with an on/off timer. The amount of amps that it draws is negligible. The only time I turn it off is when my house is unoccupied for a long duration.
2028737
3.3 GPM, but only at 35 PSI. That's a very low pressure and I would not consider it for use in my RV. The Shure-Flo Revolution pump will provide 3.0 GPM at 55 PSI and the Seaflo pump will provide 5.5 GPM at 60 PSI, for instance, and both are cheaper.I can tell a big difference in my RV when I run from the internal pump at 55 PSI vs. when I use a "city water" connection run through a 45 PSI regulator (the internal pump outperforms the city water connection). The extra pressure makes a big difference, especially in the shower.
1623163
No GPM on the label, sorry. you may be able to get from Watkins, the maker of the Hot Springs spa. This the circulation/heater pump.
367519
Measured 1 gallon in 30 seconds = 2.0 gpm. I think my pressure is fairly high. Hot water did last longer than the old 2.5 gpm head which actually used 2.6 gpm.
10042
I installed the pump at 300 ft. GPM is not adjustable and dependent on your pipe, valves etc size. 12 GPM is maximum. If your well replenishment rate is low install a Franklin Electric QD Pumptec - Pump Protector.
407687
I would not use this pump for a well that is this deep the total head is out side the rating of this pump. A better fit would be the Red Lion RL-12G15-3W2V this pump is rated for up to 500' of head and will provide enough GPM for most applications.
1895954
You can see a chart on depth/psi and some additional specs here: http://www.redlionproducts.com/clean-water/4-submersible-well-pumps/Mine is at 100' - I didn't get a chance to measure the gpm on my install, but it seems at least 12 gpm. Of course, my well is a slow artesian so I usually have 100' of head water on top of the pump. But so far it's been a great pump.
621121
I would opt for a larger tank such as this one so that your pump does not cycle as much. I use this tank for our whole house and like it very much -- no more water pressure surges when taking a shower etc. This said, suggest you find out about the capacity of your well - - a larger tank will require more water to fill and if your well has limited capacity, you could run your pump dry if you run out of water trying to fill the tank ...
988175
Willee, I've got a question, yes it needs 12-15 psi at the controller, to maintain that is another issue. Some of my zones have 7 pop-ups. I called Zodiac today and got no where, they could not tell me the gpm required to keep system running or even suggest a variable speed pump for me. I understand what your saying about running high pressure for a couple hours then reducing it for eight hours, to do that I would probably need to add an automatic valve to change to side returns seeing my pop-ups wouldn't pop-up. Your thoughts. And do you own a pool with a caretaker system?
485178
Because of the distance from the well I would suggest a bigger pump for you application.the manufacture I would also recommend, as I have 2 of their pumps, and I am very happy, with their products, and performance.T
85293
2.2 GPM with both on. with one on I would speculate it is more than 1.1 as it increases the water output of the single device. I would guess maybe between 1.4 and 1.7 with just 1 on.
2197691
It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the next call. It does not force your unit to cycle 24 x 7. It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the... » Read More It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the next call. It does not force your unit to cycle 24 x 7. « Show Less
1388140
Yes it will. I have a 1/2 hp 10 gpm submersible pump set to 50- 75psi. My well is for lawn irrigation and water trough for cattle. I have done this for years. A pump technician had suggested this to me to solve a "short cycling " problem. We regularly would hand water with one hose going and the pump was cutting off and on very frequently. I turned up pressure till the pump would run constantly with one hose only in operation. I also Highly recommend the low pressure cut off feature as this can save your pump if you run out of water.