Has this model the same schemathic of 750LC?I need a aux input to connect it to my little gainclone that has an hi-gain unique input.Thanks in advance
1957086
This model uses opamps while the TC-750LC is discrete (transistor). They do not share the same design or PCB layout. You'd connect either model's OUTPUT to the Gainclone's input; whether this would be a good match depends on the specific Gainclone's input impedance and sensitivity. ("Gainclone" refers to an entire class of DIY amplifier designs, not a single product).
1957087
Agree with the answers from Jeffrey S and Stephen M. I use it with my Yamaha receiver to run my turntable through the phone preamp (with which I have been very happy with the fidelity) and the auxilliary input as needed to play music from iPod or Laptop. Simple push button to toggle between phono and aux. No on/off switch (I plug it into a switched outlet on the receiver).
1957088
I believe this should work but don't know if the schematics are the same. It has 2 stereo RCA inputs, phono and auxiliary, and 1 amplified stereo RCA output. You can adjust the output level on the output. I use this to run my turntable and jukebox through my Samsung TV Home Theater. There is no line in on the home theater, so without this preamp, the input is too weak. I am happy with the unit, and leave it on all the time as it uses very little electricity when not in use. I agree with the previous answer from Jeffrey W. Spicer.
1957089
If you're meaning does it have an aux input as well as a phono input, yes it does. So you can have one magnetic cartridge (MM) phono and one high level device (like a CD player, tape, iPod etc.) connected. And it's output goes into a high-level input, such as an aux input on an amplifier. It is designed to provide a phono preamp for amps or receivers that don't have one. Nice thing is with the switch, you don't lose that input for another device too.
72987
A bunch of flat models exist, and like 7545R, they sound bad. You are much better off using an external preamp/eq than cutting a big whole in your CBG as a means to ruin the sound. If you're looking to save money, try the Beringer Acoustic Modeler/DI -- it's a great ripoff of the acoustic Sansamp replaced by the para DI. But if you still want the onboard electronics try to find an Alverez System 600T MK II.
1638970
I would ask the manufacturer. The amp had inputs for additional device connection. I only got the 30 modle with no additional add ons. Sorry. I wish I could have been more help
995671
My cousin, to my dismayed surprise, has the Soundbot SB240 upon showing off my 66 Audio. They look the same, they feel the same, they sound the same, they ARE the same. Unless you think the extra pouch is worth it, no the extra cash is not justified.
2207783
I'd start by just plugging right into your receiver and see how you like the sound. some receivers have decent headphone amps, others have horrid ones. I don't know your model, but my Yamaha has the horrid type unfortunately. if you find you don't like the sound, be it too muffled, thin, or lifeless, then add an amp. there are many you can add. I run mine on a schiit vali and I love the pairing. the schiit magni is a good amp as well, more versatile than the vali. there is the jds labs o2 amp, and many many more. you'll need a line out from your receiver though. I was shocked to learn mine did not have any line level outs, so I had to run an optical out to an optical dac, and connect my headphone amp to the dac.
273913
I wound't recommend it. I bought this unit and the input wire broke within minutes. Called - tried calling - Behringer. After about 2 hours got to speak with someone in Pittsburgh who said it would be too costly to fix. I send the unit back to Amazon (thanks, Amazon) which I don't like to do. I'd get something else. Go to a Sam Ash or Guitar center and they should have something that works in stock. Or try Crutchfield.
1817559
Sorry, Abdulaziz, I'm not familiar with the Behringer C-1. Try google, and ask the company reps...I'm sure they'll be able to tell you.
762191
Yeah, i have a 500 but only run it at 250 because if i turn it up any higher it drones out all the mid and treble in my pickup. 300 watts it pleanty for this sub, cant go wrong with JL Audio!
1240822
I have made the decision to purchase the ln40a750, the only difference is the 750 has a subwoofer bass speaker in it. Worth it to me because I had no plans in hooking it up to stereo system.
1727310
I have a cheap all-in-one receiver and a 1970's Phillips turntable. The sound was very dim, as you say. The TCC TC-753LC pre-amp did the trick. My old albums sound great with plenty of volume. Mind you, I don't have a high quality receiver and was just glad to get any sound out of the old turntable.
1900920
Check out the specks on the Xenyx. I think it has only one preamp. Also check your other equipment to see if they have preamps built into their systems. Any mixer is mainly for routing multiple units to the amps and then on to the speakers or speaker/amps. Most mixers have preamps as part of their input system but not all the inputs are preamps. You can usually tell by the xlr inputs which are always preamps. Juts make sure your mixer has the amount of preamps you need, but most amplifiers now have preamps built in. Feel free to emailme with more info about your system or what you want to do and I will be glad to help you. John
1085832
I understand your frustration or concern with the output connections on the 286s. You must understand that the 286s is designed as an insert device connecting to effect in/out lines within professional style audio mixers and associated patch panels as these both use 1/4" jacks. Make no mistake that 1/4" receptacle is in fact a low impendence output requiring the same connections (tip,ring,gnd) as the 3 pin XLR on the input but for professional audio patching it is most practical being what it is. As far as the "limiter" is concerned you are correct to assume the 286s doesn't have one. What it does have is a circuit that kindly conditions the audio within a workable range unlike a "limiter" that clips off the peaks of an audio wave form causing distortion or worse. Limiters are great in DC power circuits but raise all kinds of hell in complex AC waveform circuits that have a wide range in amplitude and frequency. To keep distortion from the output some reasonable hands on (riding the gain) is required along with a good ear. You can't overload the output of any mixer and expect any device to remedy what's already distorted. If you're attempting to output to a modern day radio transceiver and have your impendence in and outs correct with a reasonable drive level the radio's IDC more or less qualifies as your "limiter" depending where the audio is injected (data in usually) ... Good luck !
1414974
Have no idea. But it is a great uncolored reference amplifier. I use it on some massive synthesizers and it has no problems with bandwidth.
411645
Hi When compared to 7506. 7520 That's just perfect sound! 7506 with an absolutely flat sound. Without baseman. With strong lifting the hi mid. Do 7520 balanced sound. And sit perfectly on the head. The best solution, you go to the store and listen to are both. You will understand everything;)
938812
Thanks very much for your question. The analog inputs are only 5.1. This is a fantastic sounding receiver.
1892331
Thank you all for the response, I am seriously considering getting a couple of these for my mobile DJ setup. Your help is greatly appreciated!
1359843
You first need to match the OHMS of your speakers to the amp. If you have 8 ohm speakers, this amp will only put out 300 to 380 watts per channel. If your speakers are 750 watts @8 ohms, this amp is not powerful enough. You need headroom. If you are driving a 750 watt speaker @8 ohms, this amps is pushing 300 watts @8 ohms. NOT enough POWER&gt; You need headroom. After you match the ohms of the amp to the speakers, You should turn the amp all the way up, adjust the mixer volume without feedback, sing or play a song, watch your amp and if it clips in the red, back off the gain or volume of your mixer/ and or the power amp. Google matching up ohms for a better explanation. I hope you find this helpful and not confusing. Also, check out the Pyle 8000. It is probably what you need.