Do I need a dual bevel miter to use this effectively? I can understand it giving me the correct angles for one side of a corner, but what about the other?
1957271
M. Rees, No, you don't need a dual bevel saw to use this tool, but one would give you more capability. The tool measures the corner and gives you the saw settings to cut each piece of molding so that each piece makes up one-half of the corner joint. Because one corner cut will be left handed and the other right handed, you have to change either the saw settings (left/right miter/bevel, but the same number of degrees) and/or the position the molding is held on the saw to make the correct cut. There are several websites that explain cutting and installing crown molding. www.altereagle.com/How_to_install.html www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60354 Some of the miter saw manufacturers have instructions on their site.
1909623
The braces have a hole through which you put the post that goes into the ground or provides stability for a second level. They can swivel around this post. I'm sure there's a limitation to how "tight" you can make the corner. The point to your wedge might be restricted to how far you can swivel it. Start your project with that end.
135136
i have older cabinets (late 70's) i didnt need to miter, but i did need to redo all the holes. for some reason the new ones "amerock" didnt match the previous hole placement.i actually had amerock originally. the holes flipped, instead of the middle hole being at the top... it was previously next to the hinge. really wasnt a problem at all. just had to make all new holes, the hinge covered the old holes too. they work great and look really nice. hope that helped you.
1836180
I haven't tried to do it, but the product overview states "Cutting capacity; crosscut at 0-Degree miter, 0-Degree level 2-3/4 in. x 12 in.; Miter at 45-Degree miter, 0-Degree bevel 2-3/4 in. x 8-1/4 in.; Bevel at 0-degree miter, 45-Degree level 1-9/16 in. x 12 in.; Compound at 45-degree miter, 45-Degree bevel 1-9/16 in. x 8-1/4 in.", so it looks like you could do it at a zero degree miter but not at 45 degrees.
1068563
For what you're doing, this tool isn't a good choice. The center pivot point is what holds the guide in place, and without it you're working freehand. For what you want to accomplish a template and a straight bit with an edge following bearing is probably the easiest way to go. That said, it still isn't a really "easy" thing to accomplish.
1164421
It gives you the degrees to do compound miters flat on one chart and the other chart gives roof pitch. I hope that helps
287111
I thinks It's a bit aggressive for unsupported narrow end grain. We generally use our Bosch orbital palm sander or half sheet sander for narrow end grain. I'm sure if you clamp & block side supports on both sides of the end piece it would work really fine. At least that's how I would do it. I know it would do a great job if supported properly to assure end piece squareness..
862707
I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I ended up removing it given the fact that it simply did not perform to my expectations. I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I... » Read More I've got mine attached to a 12" compound slide miter saw. As such, my travel is limited, as compared to a panel saw, so I'm not sure how far forward the laser would project. I went through four of these units (purchase/return) until I got one that was "close". Accuracy in large part is dependent on three things: the type/shape of the blade you're using (the thinner the kerf the better), how flush the arbor is with the blade and how accurate and properly aligned the laser was installed during manufacturing. I figured that for $9.99 and free shipping I couldn't go wrong. I ended up removing it given the fact that it simply did not perform to my expectations. « Show Less
1412451
Probably not as it cuts bevels up to 50° or 55°(left and right), and on miter cuts you get 50° to the left and 60° to the right . It is a beautiful saw with little tweaks that you can make to it to customize it to your touch! They have put a lot of thought into all the details that come with this saw and it shows from the very 1st cut you make.
1905259
The blade cuts a board straight when the board is flat on the table surface. To cut at any angle you use the mitre gauge. Maximum cut across the face of the board is 45 degrees either right or left of the blade. If you plan on doing a lot of cutting of wide boards this table saw might be a problem. The mitre gauge is loose in the table slot. The fence guide must be adjusted to the slots in the table surface. This machine is for rough carpentry work. Be aware of this saws limitations and make your purchase accordingly.
338093
I have used it for both, but I also have a good miter saw with calibrated pivot for a easy angle adjustment. I think you will find the angle adjustment a PITA for lots of wood work. I have no idea what would happen to the blade for long term wood cutting but it walks through metal fast so I suspect it would last a long time. Also note I don;t think it has a blade brake like wood miter saws, watch those fingers. It's is a excellent cutting machine.
305704
when cutting molding, the rule of thumb is you place the molding on the miter saw upside down (the wall of the miter saw serves as the actual wall on your room and the base of the miter saw is the ceiling). this is how the molding is cut. well, sometimes, it gets confusing trying to maintain that image of upside down, with the left end going to the right side when its ready to be nailed to the ceiling and same thing to the right end going to the left. this Kreg tool is supposed to allow you to cut the molding the way its oriented on the wall/ceiling, not upside down. the face plate of this tool slides in and out depending on the angle of your molding to be cut. i wasn't able to use this tool. i was cutting a 4/12 crown molding with my 10-inch blade miter saw. doesnt work. too tall for the 10-inch blade miter saw. waste of money on my part actually. will work with molding shorter than 4 1/2 inch. well, i've replaced my miter saw with a 12-inch blade one and sold my old 10-inch one. still havent used the Kreg tool. Why? all my crown molding work are finished. sorry, i'm of no help here but at least i presented you my situation and that could be a reference point wether or not you could benefit from this tool.
1325633
You don't have to have either of those things, but I would recommend some clamps for sure to keep things from shifting. In the manual it suggests that the mitre saw can *tip over* backward without them due to the weight of the blade. (Never happened to me thanks to the clamps.) I know I'd prefer mine to be bolted to a worktable but that isn't an option since I have very limited work space in an uninsulated shed and I keep my mitre saw in my room to keep it from getting rusty.
1452689
Mine cuts square (miters not so great) but not very clean. You would probably need to invest in a better blade unless you are willing to do a bit of planning and/or sanding.
338094
I have both the metal cutting and wood cutting versions of this saw. Was at a job site recently where I only had the metal cutting saw, and naturally needed to cut a 2X4. It cuts a wider path and the blade spins about 1/3 as fast, but it did a good job of cutting, certainly not worth going back home just for a couple of wood cuts. As previously answered, the miter set up would not lend itself to any precision woodworking.
1453402
You use a 1 1/2 inch drill bit for the corners. Fine woodworking has a router bench that uses this item. I followed his comments on building a template and it worked very well for cutting this pattern out.
2093367
I use mine in a corner at a 45 degree angle to the wall just fine without it looking funny. The sides are curved but overall are more or less about 45 degrees from corner to corner so it works well in a corner