What error message is reading on my 50mm f/1.8d I'm a novice DSLR user. I just purchased the 50mm f/1.8D to go with my new D80. The lens locks in at f/22 as it should. If I set the lens on other f numbers, my camera shows fEE in the control panel and prevents me from snapping a photo. I've tried the lens on another D80 with the same results. Am I doing something wrong? What error message is reading on my 50mm f/1.8d I'm a novice DSLR user. I just purchased the 50mm f/1.8D to go with my new D80. The lens locks in at f/22 as it should. If I set the lens on... » Read More What error message is reading on my 50mm f/1.8d I'm a novice DSLR user. I just purchased the 50mm f/1.8D to go with my new D80. The lens locks in at f/22 as it should. If I set the lens on other f numbers, my camera shows fEE in the control panel and prevents me from snapping a photo. I've tried the lens on another D80 with the same results. Am I doing something wrong? « Show Less
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jeproxx:If you want to use f/1.8 you need to shoot in manual (M), aperture priority (A), or program mode (P) in low light.The fastest answer is to put the camera in aperture priority, the "A", then turn the dial until it reads 1.8 on the display or viewfinder. I recommend you read your camera manual or find it online if you want to use this lens to its maximum capability.I assume you're aware that this lens (1.8D version) does not autofocus with your D5000?
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Hi. I purchased the same lens 2 days ago and yes, I am a novice using a D300. I have the same 'err' reading but when i switch and locked to f/22 i realised that the camera body electronically controls the aperture setting - which you can obviously set in 'A' mode. I assumed that the manual a f adjustment ring on the lens then was only for cameras that do no have electronically controlled A settings via the body.
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Thx for confirming that Ty. I shot some great b&w; photos on vacation with my kids in bali this week with this lens. Very sharp.
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On Nikon cameras - "A" stands for Aperature, not automatic. On the "A" setting, you determine the aperature (lens opening) and the camera sets the shutter speed. If you want fully automatic selection of both aperature and shutter speed, use the "P" Program setting. If you get an error message, it means that there is not enough available light to shoot the picture. In that case, either increase your ISO or use a flash.
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I'm having the same problem using this lens on my D80 camera. What you are saying is that there is no way for me to use the ring to adjust the aperture? It only works when locked on 22?? This doesn't seem right.
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J Gibson:I dropped my old 50mm 1.8D and this is the message I got after that, I had to replace it. It might be a defective or broken lens. I would suggest trying it on another Nikon AF camera and if it still doesn't work hopefully you can return it or have it replaced under warranty.
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Hi All, very interested in these postings but still can't get this lens to work with my D70 in M or AF. I too get fEE message displayed and shutter won'r fire, even after locking off at f22 etc. Starting to wonder if its a camera setting or am I missing something?
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You've hit it on the nose Ashely. The D-series by Nikon adjust aperature electronically. When you engage the lock on f/22 on the lense, it is similar as switching on the auto focus. The camera electronically adjusts the aperature of the lens. When you take it off, the camera sees that the lens in not in automatic mode or thinks that there isn something wrong with the lens and gives the error sign. Unless you plan on adjust the aperature manually, which there is few reasons to do, always leave the lens locked at the f/22.
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The camera controls the aperture, set it at f22 and forget it. Beside why would you not want the camera to control the aperture. If you switch to A or M mode you can set it to whatever stop you need and the camera will close the aperture down to that setting when the shutter is pressed. On some very old nikon cameras you needed to use the apertue ring and set it at the aperture you wanted, but if you where shooting something at f16, the viewfinder was almost black.
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i have d5000 and everytime i switch to any f-number i got this " lock lens aperture ring at minimum aperture (largest f/-number) " so i always use 22 and then i lock it, but why?! please help me what setting i need for manual or to use 1.8 instead 22. ty for any answer
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Your D3200 controls the aperture through software. I don't know exactly were, but in the same place where you control your aperture while using a 18-55mm. So you must set your lens aperture at minimum aperture, which i dont remember exactly, but i believe it is f/22, and then you have to lock it (there is two red dots, put then together).
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The lens has an adjustable ring for manual aperture operation. However you don't need to use it as your camera has a wheel on the front to adjust the aperture setting. On the lens you will see a red tab to lock it at f/22, do that and leave it there and use your camera's wheel to make any f-stop adjustments. The D lens has this feature for manual setting control, if you want to use this setting then turn you camera to M for manual and then adjust the lens Aperture by hand by turning the ring. Hope this helps?
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Yeah, it doesn't affect the pictures at all you're right. Sometimes it's annoying when I'm trying to use my 50mm prime, as I have to manually focus that and the blurry line doesn't help.I called Nikon also and they said I could ship it to them and they would look at it. I'm slightly worried to do that because I'm afraid they'll do something to screw it up worse. I guess I can live with it. If you send yours in, could you let me know if they actually fix it by replying here?
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Hi David,Not that I'm aware of. My lense, lent to a mate with a 7100, worked no problem to produce some comparative test images for him against a Nikon 70-200 and he has subsequently gone and bought a 50-150 on the basis of that test! The dealers here in Rome (I've spoken to two) have been perfectly happy to use their USB mounts to update lenses for customers for free. I don't know if that is the case in the UK but I would imagine so, so if you were to find you had an issue (which I believe to be an unlikely scenario) I'd suggest taking it to a Sigma dealer and ask him to update it for you but I really don't think you will find it necessary.Happy New Year.Will Hi David,Not that I'm aware of. My lense, lent to a mate with a 7100, worked no problem to produce some comparative test images for him against a Nikon 70-200 and he has subsequently gone and bought a 50-150 on the basis of that test! The dealers here in Rome (I've spoken to two) have been perfectly happy to use their USB mounts to update lenses for customers for free. I don't know if that is the case in the UK but I would imagine so, so if you were to find you had an issue (which I believe to be an unlikely scenario) I'd suggest taking it to a Sigma dealer and ask him to update it... » Read More Hi David,Not that I'm aware of. My lense, lent to a mate with a 7100, worked no problem to produce some comparative test images for him against a Nikon 70-200 and he has subsequently gone and bought a 50-150 on the basis of that test! The dealers here in Rome (I've spoken to two) have been perfectly happy to use their USB mounts to update lenses for customers for free. I don't know if that is the case in the UK but I would imagine so, so if you were to find you had an issue (which I believe to be an unlikely scenario) I'd suggest taking it to a Sigma dealer and ask him to update it for you but I really don't think you will find it necessary.Happy New Year.Will « Show Less
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I just got this lens and cannot figure out how to adjust the aperture... I can only take photos in f/22 otherwise it tells me to "lock lens aperture ring at minimum aperture" even if I put it in M (manual) mode. How do I change it so the aperture is adjustable and not fixed?
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Dr. Smith thank you for the response, yes that helped, but I do have it set on 'M' and it still does the error 'FEE' so I am out of options. I cleaned all the sensors and made sure to listen to the 'click' when lens locks. I'm really unsure what is the problem now. Does this mean that I can only use the f/22 with this lens? Thank you so much! I appreciate your help.
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Thank you guys, really appreciate you help. I was in confused state in selecting sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 or tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 macro, but after a week study i have selected this sigma 50-150mm which is exactly in my budget. Once again thank you guys.
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Went on a trip with my new D50 and it stopped working after 5-6 pictures. Showed an error message. When I got back home I decided to read the book. Seems the lens slipped out of F22 to F16. Rotating the F-ring back to F22 fixed the problem. Ignorant me. Since then I try to only purchase lenses with a little snaplock on the f-ring. Problem solved.
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I'm a moderator at Nikonians.org and a more detailed discussion to help you could be handled more effectively there. Generally speaking the D7000 is set up with defaults for a consumer orientation. That means images are a little softer and brighter to be optimized for small prints shared among friends or on the web. When you look at magnified images optimized for small prints, it will look soft. The assumption is if you are more advanced, you'll also know or learn to optimize your settings. Frustratiing but true. :) For me, that means increasing the in camera sharpening, keeping noise reduction off for most situations, and using a single focus point rather than letting the camera automatically select the focus point. If you choose a single focus point, you have to watch how you use it. You need to place the point on the part of your subject that needs the sharpest focus. Maybe it is the eye of a person, or for landscapes about 1/3 of the way into the frame. Also keep in mind that a 16 MB image is going to show more resolution and reveal technique errors that were not seen on 12 MB images. We saw the same thing when we moved to the D200 from D100/D70 cameras. Generally the camera and lenses are pretty good. You can buy better lenses, but it's best to learn to optimize the gear you have. Make sure you have enough light to freeze the subject and eliminate movement. Your shutter speeds need to be fast enough to hand hold - 1/500 sec or more is best if you are testing. Don't shoot at the extremes of your zoom and expect perfection - most lenses perform better if you stay away from maximum and minimum focal lengths. Stop down your aperture a little to f/6.3 or even f/8. Most lenses perform better stopped down a stop or two - which also gives you more depth of field. And for testing, pick a simple target with clear contrasting edges. It normally takes a little practice. You have to make your errors predictable - not just your successes. Know when you are at or beyond your limits. Hope this helps.
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I have probably taken over 1000 pictures since my purchase of lens. I have not heard this problem. Call Tamron and speak with them. This is the second one I have
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my d50 is on it 2nd owner.purchased june 06,and used as a wedding camera along with my n80.2nd owner does sports.neither of us had a problem with the camera.to anyone reading this,do not fix a d50,do not buy from the two dealers here on amazon with those high prices.my d50 cost 550.00 with lens in 06.put any repair toward a d5000 body and use your same lense that u have now.
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These reviews and questions are for all versions of this lens and the same info is visible under all different sellers of this lens. Amazon likes to mix all reviews together. So basically, we can't answer that question here because it depends on who you buy it from. Only buy from authorized Nikon sellers and you should have US warranty.
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I haven't owned this lens for very long but I've had very good results with it so far. I mainly shoot with automatic settings and the camera adjusts the aperture for each picture of course. It is not always on f/2.8. It varies, depending on the light conditions, etc. if you shoot manually you can keep it on f/2.8 if you want. That is simply the largest aperture setting you can use on this lens. You CAN change it to a smaller aperture if you want.
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I had just purchased the SB800 when the 900 came out. Always happens that way. I have used the SB800 and it works somewhat well but understand that a lens with this focal length will require a flash that really brings it! I use this lens for landscape and sports photography, daylight shooting, because that 2.8 glass really lets the light in. I might suggest going directly to Nikon and asking them to show their hand on this one. I am going to try it as well. Are you shooting in Aperature and Manual modes? this will also let you control the amount of light you will need for your pix to really come out nice. I had just purchased the SB800 when the 900 came out. Always happens that way. I have used the SB800 and it works somewhat well but understand that a lens with this focal length will require a flash that really brings it! I use this lens for landscape and sports photography, daylight shooting, because that 2.8 glass really lets the light in. I might suggest going directly to Nikon and asking them to show their hand on this one. I am going to try it as well. Are you shooting in Aperature and Manual modes? this will also let you control the amount of light you will need for your pix to really... » Read More I had just purchased the SB800 when the 900 came out. Always happens that way. I have used the SB800 and it works somewhat well but understand that a lens with this focal length will require a flash that really brings it! I use this lens for landscape and sports photography, daylight shooting, because that 2.8 glass really lets the light in. I might suggest going directly to Nikon and asking them to show their hand on this one. I am going to try it as well. Are you shooting in Aperature and Manual modes? this will also let you control the amount of light you will need for your pix to really come out nice. « Show Less
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I have encountered the same problem and almost thought about returning it. Be patient. It seems that you could not mount your fd lens to the adapter. It is easier to mount fd lens onto the adapter before installing fd lens+adapter to your camera body. There is not mark or dot to line up, so you have to use your eyes. Visually line up the flange of the adapter (on the side with a screw) to flange rail of fd rail. Ensure adapter's flange goes underneath fd lens's flange rail, so a lens can be held firmly onto the adapter. Then turn the adapter clockwise to lock. Good luck.
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I don't know. Ask the vendor. I've never had any problem with mine, although I wish it were a faster lens. But, then, the $ would have been faster too.-amicuscuria.com/wordpress-