My tl8230A1003 just has 4 wires out the back ,how do I connect a in floor temp sensor.
1954767
Buy a different thermostat?? This doesn't seem to be designed to handle an outside sensor...
1954768
You don't. I returned this tstat because when I received it, I found the circuit board didn't have a floor sensor spot. It is often shown with radiant floors, on Amazon, something which I gave Amazon feedback about, but Amazon basically told me that if people buy the two together, even if it is wrong, their system will group it. The way this one checks temp is by an air temp sensor built into the unit, so your floor can get baking hot, before it really does much to the air, which means while it CAN work, it CANNOT work well or efficiently for radiant. Options include ones like Sunstat which makes a digital and a analog version. I have the digital, and it works great. Secondly...when installing a floor sensor (before you set your tiles), install 2 spaced several feet apart. Run both wire leads to the thermostat, label one as backup, and don't connect it, and use the other. If you ever have to replace a tile and accidentally cut the sensor wire, it is useless...and having a backup sensor already run, makes switching the wiring a MUCH cheaper and faster solution, than breaking up a row of tiles in order to lay a new sensor under the tile again. I got a second sensor wire for around 10 bucks, and (knock on wood) have not needed to use it. Also, if your sensor wire comes from the manufacturer with a short or break in it, because of the time you wait for the floor to cure before activating it, you won't find out about a problem until after you have done all the work...then having a problem can be pretty frustrating.
1954769
I ever bought this model then returned because of its lacking of the feature. The original Aura brand (very the same shape) supports the feature.
1954770
I have not used this thermostat. Unfortunately I did not read it's use very well and did not need a thermometer for baseboard heat. Sorry
661456
The one I have is 2 pads on one wire and another 2 pads on another wire. There are 2 spots in the unit to plug in 2 wires. One to the left side and one to the right side Hope this helps
1707285
If all 3 levels are heated by the same furnace one unit should do the trick. Just put the sensor in the zone that receives the least heat. However, if each level is served by its own furnace you will need 3 units.
1323130
I am going to assume you have a heating and cooling system. That being said, you need to have five wires in your thermostat cable from the furnace unit to the thermostat. Refer to page 46 of the VENSTAR manual - the 5 wire, 1 stage cooling/heating diagram. The color coding is as follows: R(red)=24 volt power; W(white)=heat; Y(yellow)=cooling; G(green) =fan; and blue(for me)=common. This is where the trick is - you must have five wires so that the common can be connected between the furnace and the thermostat. The older systems did not need the "common" because they were not a powered devise. If you don't have five conductors in the thermostat cable then you will need to replace the cable. I am going to assume you have a heating and cooling system. That being said, you need to have five wires in your thermostat cable from the furnace unit to the thermostat. Refer to page 46 of the VENSTAR manual - the 5 wire, 1 stage cooling/heating diagram. The color coding is as follows: R(red)=24 volt power; W(white)=heat; Y(yellow)=cooling; G(green) =fan; and blue(for me)=common. This is where the trick is - you must have five wires so that the common can be connected between the furnace and the thermostat. The older systems did not need the "common" because they were not a... » Read More I am going to assume you have a heating and cooling system. That being said, you need to have five wires in your thermostat cable from the furnace unit to the thermostat. Refer to page 46 of the VENSTAR manual - the 5 wire, 1 stage cooling/heating diagram. The color coding is as follows: R(red)=24 volt power; W(white)=heat; Y(yellow)=cooling; G(green) =fan; and blue(for me)=common. This is where the trick is - you must have five wires so that the common can be connected between the furnace and the thermostat. The older systems did not need the "common" because they were not a powered devise. If you don't have five conductors in the thermostat cable then you will need to replace the cable. « Show Less
416568
Floor sensor resistance should read as follows:17 kOhms at 55 deg F13 kOhms at 65 deg F10 kOhms at 75 deg F8 kOhms at 85 deg F. If unsure, contact manufacturer.
779796
Just connect a wire from the positive side of the fan motor to one lead of your indicator light. Connect the second lead from the light to ground. I used a red LED lamp purchased from Radio Shack and mounted it to the fan's On/Off switch plate. Remember to connect the wire to the fan motor itself, not to the positive side of the thermostatic switch. Connecting to the thermo-switch will only tell you there is power in the circuit, not whether or not the fan itself is running. I think I used 18 or 20-gauge wire for my installation as the LED draws very little current. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
609030
If you want to use the automatic setting, you'll need to run wires for the outside temperature sensor. Most of the rest of the wires should be pretty similar though.
968503
my manual says that the basic sensor is -40-300F with 3' 24AWG 2 conductor wire. Nickel plated copper sensor cap. Also an upgraded sensor is a 1000Ohm Platinum RTD sensor that goes from 0-600F
192062
The temperature sensor is small about 1 inch or less. No extension cable came with mine. I think that it is under the picture of the controller..
1370894
i wired mine as follows:1&2 = load know that 1 & 2 connect to a single wire of the heat/cold source. only one wire from heat will connect to 1 & 2. u only cut one wire of the load(heat supply) and connect to 1 & 2. 3&4 = power5&6 = sensorworx4me, lucku u
455487
I had the same issue, as the wire was only 4' long on each.However, I did cut off the existing wire and connected the new sensors with the wire nuts that were included.
424889
The hookup of the meter is very simple.2 green wires go to the pickup coil and the other 2 are for the AC voltage.Just put the high side of the lineTHRU THE sensor.Kc2igr1@gmail.com908.290.7622Mike
1390918
If you have the same heater that I have. I could open the side of it and look to see how its wired and possibly send you a picture or explain it later.
91610
Use a voltmeter and put it on the ohms setting or the "buzzer" setting. Take the two test leads and place one test lead on one of the two electrical tabs from the thermostat. Take the other lead and place in on the other electrical tab. At room temp you should have zero ohms or a buzzing sound. If you have infinite resistance then the part needs to be replaced. Check out the videos on YouTube
1789634
Jeff is correct. Only two wires (conductors) are needed. If you have thermostat wire with more than two conductors, no problem, just use two of them and ignore the rest.
1956329
Go to the Installer Mode on your thermostat, and set variable 340 to one of the following:0 - Display temp. at thermostat location only1 - Display temp. at indoor sensor location(s)2 - Average between thermostat & sensor location(s)When you change the setting, you should notice the temperature read-out change based on what was selected.Unfortunately there is no way to read the individual sensor if you have several. These can only work as one external sensor, or an average of 4 sensors, but nothing in between.
2223212
I noticed the first answer but I believe it is wrong. I have the old sensor. It has 4 wires, 2 black, 1 white & 1 blue.The length from the flange to the end of the connector is 8 1/2 inches. I cut the wires on mine so it may be longerbut I don't think I lost any length. Total length is about 10 inches.