Can you use this tool with 2" brads to attach trim wood (like base board and chair rail-1x4s) to a lathe and plaster wall? How about to a brick wall?
1950104
Definitely not on the brick. The brads will penetrate plaster and lathe and just like drywall will have better bite if you catch the framing. They bite on the lathe, too, so random shots have more chance to catch something.
1950105
I have not tried but I think the tool has the power to do it granted you stick with a 150 PSI compressor at least. It might boil down to the brad nail it self if it holds up when met with a harder surface than wood. Why not try liquid nails instead(glue) for your job? Hope that helps.
1950106
It does well with 2" brads into plaster/lathe, drywall, wood, or soft platics. Brads will not work into brick, no matter what type of nailer you use. Brads are very thin. They will bend if you try to drive them into brick or concrete.
1950107
It does well with 2" brads into plaster/lathe, drywall, wood, or soft platics. Brads will not work into brick, no matter what type of nailer you use.Brads are very thin. They will bend if you try to drive them into brick or concrete.
1381918
The blade has an adjustable height and I've used it on hardwood boards as thick as 1" (full 5/4) .. While I haven't used it on thicker wood, it may work, but I don't recommend using it on anything thicker (this is true for any of these). Use a table saw if you can for thicker than 5/4.
1494543
I used it with plaster and lathe walls. It is able to find nails quite deep in the wall so it is fit for this purpose.
2211350
Hi Fred;If you could find a cup hole saw blade that would cut your size opening I would go that route instead of the hole pro. The two blades are like sharp spikes rotating around cutting the material on a smooth surface they work great but once your beyond the plaster they are going to catch on the lathe and your going to wind up chipping and cracking the plaster. I used it on a plaster wall but I stopped once I got to the lathe and cut the lathe with a Fien multimaster wood blade to prevent the lathe from pulling away from the plaster. Good luck!
1366556
I would think a skilled carpenter or tile guy would be able to trim the base with the proper tools.its a high density foam so a good saw and steady hand should do just fine. But on a side note I did not have to trim mine at all.
195910
Yes, it will take any of the screws used with this tool, it's just has a narrower spacing between boards, 1/16 vs 3/16 of an inch.
1290909
The sanding head that I got with mine is pretty big to be honest with you. I tried to sand some wood casing on a door frame that was really close to the cabinets in the kitchen, and when I got to the spot that had the cabinets next to it, I could not get it flat on the wall........the triangle sanding head is pretty big, I would say 2.5 inches on each side and it triangular shaped, so if you have enough room to get that thing where you need, then yes, it would be fine, but if you don't have a lot of wiggle room, you may try to see if Dremel has a sanding attachment that is not as large as the one that comes with it.........it all depends on the room.......also, the unit itself is pretty big considering I have seen some that are smaller.............this one works great for all other applications I have came across however.
1108175
That would take too long in oak. The tool moves slow through hardwood. You want a jigsaw.
837834
Yes, use a masonry blade to make the cut, should work better than a wood framed wall.
1590221
No stupid questions --- only stupid answers! Yes, in theory this could be used with one of those simple wood miter boxes. One would need clamps or some other way to secure the workpiece to a table as this saw usually requires two hands to make a nice cut.
392721
You should be able to use one 1/8" blade and one 3/16" blade. That takes you to 7/32" (or 14/64"... 1/64" shy of desired dado.) With the shims you should be able to dial it in to that. I own this set, but haven't tried it for that width. Quarter inch plywood, I'm guessing?
1132969
It wouldn't be suitable for 1/4 inch stock over 3.5" wide. If you replace the stock blade with a small tooted finish blade it would be just the ticket. In fact it can cross cut a 2" X 4" but miters of this size lumber are impossible. Fine for 3/4" thick or smaller stock.
2248682
Depends on what type of projects you are trying to accomplish. I have been a little disappointed in my kreg jig honestly. It is good for joining 1x dimensional lumber but not good in joining 1x to 2x or 2x to 2x. Id imagine if you went smaller than 1x, it would provide very little strength to joints. The master system gives you a few bells and whistles like the clamp but you're fine saving a few bucks and going with another if you wanted.
1132973
Actually it would not really be that safe, this size of machine is generally for trim work like on baseboards or cutting 2 x 4's. I would suggest a dremmel tool with a saw attachment for your size crafts.
873187
You can easily clamp down on a 2" board to about 3.5 inches at an angle. If you need more height simply add more to the base you are securing it to. Great tool.
195531
Ric, I use a 10" Portercable miter compound saw. I do not bolt it down on to the frame. Since I move it around. I cut a 3/4 plywood for where the saw will sit. When I get a chance to make up some bolts with wing nuts. So I can quickly take it apart and store it. I google your saw and say yes it would work. Have use this stand to cut trim for base, crown. Made in China, :(. But. So is Dewlat. Hope this help.
1206693
it has a depth setting so you can make the attack a bi more. I have used it with oak with no problems, but nothing harder. It has more to do with the guage and length of the brad than the machine. I don't think you could put a two inch brad into a piece of hardwood, but short lengths, no problem. I really love the way this thing works.