Using the jig; AND noobie info on Drill bit collar setting
934327
UPDATE:
Well I finally got to the point in my big project where I needed to use this jig.
There are a few points I will mention:
1. I really don't know HOW you would use this effectively if you didn't have the
  special Kreg jig vise-grip.  Seems to me absolutely necessary for efficient usage.
2. For joining a 2x2 to the top of a 2x4, drilling the pocket into the side of a 2x2 is not handy.
  They need to sell a narrower 1-hole version for that.
  As it is, it's a bit tricky to get one of the sides lined up in the center of the 2x2.  Only
  one of the 'edge holders' is on the wood, the other is 'floating', or you have to get a
  separate clamp to hold 2 boards together with the butt ends matching, which ends up
  being an ok solution, but is as I say above, not 'handy'.
3. One time the plastic 'clips' that hold the jig based at a certain wood thickness let go
  and I didn't notice it immediately and I drilled a couple holes with the wrong setting.
  After that I was careful NOT to touch or push on that part of the jig and had no further issues.
4. I was using the jig on pressure treated wood, and had to knock the sawdust out
  of the jig between each drilling.  A couple hard taps against a hard surface were required,
  otherwise packed sawdust often remained in the jig, and the next drilling would then take
  a lot more pressure and time.
5. It's not an issue with the jig, but FYI: the Kreg washerhead screws do not 'hold' the square bit as
  well as 'normal' washerhead squarehead screws do.  The bit has a major tendency to jump out
  unless you run the gun slow and steady and careful.  I think this is due to the fact that
  the kreg screwhead has blue paint inside the socket which doesn't allow the bit to seat as deeply,
  and the washerhead at least *seems* to be thinner than a 'normal' washerhead screw.

END UPDATE

I thought some other Kreg Jig noobies out there might find the following info useful:

I bought this jig to join 2x2's to 2x4's (which are both of course actually 1.5" wide).  That is the largest size wood that this jig is recommended for.  I drill the pocket into the side of a 2x2, and attach it to the thin edge of a 2x4.

When I got the jig, I immediately tried to set it up for joining 1 1/2" wood.  The jig itself was easy to set.  Couldn't be simpler.

But when I went to set the depth collar on the drill bit, I got confused...
The drill collar guide has markings on it which show where to put the collar for each of the main wood thicknesses.  Every wood thickness has it's own mark, EXCEPT the 1 1/4" wood thickness, and the 1 1/2" thickness.  There is one mark for both of these.  ALSO, that mark sets the collar SHORTER than the mark for 1 1/8" (and much shorter than the 1 3/8" mark)!  I couldn't figure it out...

BUT it turns out this is exactly correct.  This 'strangeness' is caused by the fact that the recommended screw lengths change.  For
example, when changing from joining 1 3/8" thick wood, to joining 1 1/2" wood, the recommended screw length goes up by 1/2".  So
with only a 1/8" thicker piece of wood, the pocket can't be drilled as deep, or the screw will poke thru.  And it is simple coincidence
that the 1 1/4" pocket and 1 1/2" pocket are drilled the same depth.

The R3 Jr. manual is VERY minimal, but the K3 manual (which you can find online as a PDF file with a little googling) is much larger and goes into detail on how to determine screw lengths and shows diagrams on why the pockets are drilled to the
depth they are.  It also has a LOT more info on how to join different types of surfaces (mitered joints, etc).
2396308
Not really much to tell here. You know what you're buying. They let you to use your drill in place of a rachet. Comes in the 3 commonly used sizes. If you wanna do that, you have two options. Saw an extension in half and put that in the drill. Which is a waste of a perfectly good extension and also probably going to end up spinning inside the chuck anyway, unless you were smart enough to sand down some flat spots around it for the drill to grip. Or buy these. Easy choice, my friend. Get these.
3948753
10mm Shank has a pretty large flat.. This is somewhat tricky to set in a drill press or drill chuck if that is how you intend to use it; but it does seem possible... Otherwise sharp and made a clean first hole, not orange as pictured.
3382925
Springs are weak, so that drill remains protruding, but I applied oil, to make sure it's slipping well, and since that wasn't enough, I unscrewed knurled ring, making it easy to access the SPRING and STRETCH it out. Now it pushes the sleeve back over the bit consistently. If the spring is too soft and doesn't hold tension, I'll take a blow torch to it, get it cherry red and quench it in water to case harden the metal so it remains stretched out.
3126681
The collar is very easy to assemble if you watch the videos to fully understand. The owner (Mary) is awesome! She sent emails including videos and free ebooks on training with the collar. We haven't had a chance to use it yet but I'm sure it will be great!
189989
Adding a 1/2 chuck means your SDS rotary hammer can handle standard bits.
For me this meant I can only need to carry 1 drill instead of 2 or 3. The chuck is a chunk of metal and appeared to be well built.
Then I used it...it did and continues to work just fine but the tightening ring "popped" loose and thus far I have not been able to get it to stay. It is simply pressed on from the factory. As stated it still works but I was a little disappointed in the way it was put together.
Would I recommend it? Yes because it so so handy to have but I would warn this ring could be an issue.
3638220
I can't figure out how to get the shock collar to work. I thought I got it all set up correctly. I read the instructions numerous times. I let training mode stay on the first couple days like it said. But I thought I change it to the shock setting but it's still not shocking. I fully charged the collar when I got it. Can anyone help me ? Or give me some advice on what I need to do?
2617004
I have had the unit for about a week and have only used it once so far.
Worked well, appears to be a solid machine.  Agree with others that the directions were bad.
I did call customer service and they were very helpful.
Found out that the diagram in the operating instructions were for a different unit.  Here are a few things that may be helpful for you:
1)  Handle attachment is pretty easy to figure out.  Remove bolts with L-wrench, snap in place and re tighten in the position you want.
2) Tighten down water flow part on the unit in the position you want (straight back is best) with an open end wrench.  I had to mess with this for a while to line it up.
3) Attach the water line with the compression nut.  Slightly more than hand tighten, but don't over tighten as you can see from other reviews that they can break.
4) You will need to remove the two black brackets from the arbor(?).  They are only used to secure/clamp down on other attachments like a grinder wheel etc.. (not included) They would fit in between these two black threaded parts. This is also what the odd looking wrench is for.
5) Attach the water shroud with the large hose clamp.  You need to apply a little force to snap it in place, then secure with hose clamp and screw driver.  (this is the part that the diagram doesn't match)
6) Hand tighten the velcro holder on the unit.  They told me I didn't need to use wrench to tighten.
7) Attach the diamond disc and you should be ready to go.
There are some extra parts.
Extra brushes for the unit.  (save but don't need to install now)
Large silver washer looking thing.  They told me it's an arbor reducer for other sized attachments. (not included)
Hope this helps, and remember to call their help line if you don't follow.
Be safe.
3421001
Overall the drill guide will do what I want it to do in my shop.  One thing I don't like is I have to remove the springs to set the depth gauge stop. This means the springs are setting around some where I sometimes forget where I put them.
2632496
The chuck is not mounted squarely on the shaft, the result is that there is what i consider significant runout and the bit wobbles. I first tried the Wolfcraft version and it was worse. I'm returning this for an exchange and think I will just keep doing this until I get one that is half decent. I realize this is not a precision piece of equipment, but I can slow the drill down and see the chuck wobble quite easily; you don't even need to put in a drill bit to see it. Have others experienced this? Are my expectations too high? I mean, it is just very visually obvious just by looking at the chuck.

When assembled and driving with the drill, the whole unit shimmies due to being unbalanced.

So advice from someone who spent far too long messing around trying to improve this thing.
So the replacement I ordered was worse. Took it apart and here is what I learned.

1) The chuck is crap (no surprise). If you put a drill bit in it and rotate it you can see that the drill is not centered in the chuck jaws. It has what appears to be a standard 3/8"-24 mount so I think you should be able to replace it. I had one laying around that was better so have been using it.

2) As you will note, the end of the shaft that goes into the drill is not round but has been ground into a sort of triangular shape so that it will fit between the jaws of the chuck and not slip. On mine, it's clear that it was not ground properly concentric, so by changing which of the two drill chuck jaws a particular side of the shaft sits either makes it better or worse. I found one orientation that is better than the others so I need to find a way to mark the drill chuck jaws and the shaft to know which is the preferable way to insert it.

3) There are many videos on uTube that show you how to remove a chuck so take a look at them for more details. But basically the chuck is screwed onto the shaft (3/8-24) and a screw that you can see at the bottom of the center of the chuck locks it in place. I found I could get some improvement by loosening this screw, and rotating the chuck on the 3/8' threads, then tightening back down. You just have to play with it to find the best combination. Note that the screw is LEFT hand, in that you turn it clockwise to loosen.

The design is so simple, but maddeningly poorly executed with many sources of error. I just spent a number of hours playing around with the things I have mentioned to get some improvement. The first thing you should take a look at is putting on a better chuck.

Good luck!
4807876
The sizing rings show as a different size when compared to the other 'straight' piece, using rings I already have they show the 'straight' piece as being sized right.  So it works well using the rings and the 'straight' piece together. If the two tools compared together showed as the same size it would save time and confusion
566353
This is one of my most-used bits. There are some things you should know before purchasing. First, you don't need a router table to use it. But you will need a straight edge, as long as your joint. I use the Eurkekazone guide, but you can get by with the edge of a commercial piece of plywood if it's well-cut.

Now, the whole key to using this bit is setting it at the correct height, because you want it perfectly centered, as you will be routing half your edges from the top and the other half from the bottom. It helps--greatly--to have a thickness planer to ensure that your boards are all of the same thickness.

To set it at the correct height, here's a way:

1) After putting the bit in your router, find a hard, flat surface (like a flat board or the surface of your table saw). Then push your router down until the blade touches the surface, and lock it down.

2) Measure--precisely--the thickness of the wood that you are joining. A micrometer is nice for this.

3) Take the thickness of your wood, subtract it from the thickness cut by this bit (1.5 inches, or 38 mm), and divide by 2. Add this thickness to the thickness of the pieces you want to join. EXAMPLE: The wood you want to join is 22 mm thick. Subtract that from 38 to get you 16. Divide that by 2 to get 8. Add that to the wood thickness (22), and you get 30 mm.

4) Now, using your router adjustment, raise your router base by the amount calculated--in the above example, 30 mm. This will center the bit exactly if you are careful.

If you are joining multiple pieces and some have to be joined on both sides, always route the glue joint for that piece of wood from the same side (that is, either top or bottom). If after routing your joints and pushing your pieces together, you find that your pieces are slightly staggered (every other one alternately high or low), pass the appropriate side through the planer to even things up to perfection before gluing.

I have a finger joint bit as well, but for most applications, I prefer the glue joint bit. While a finger joint provides more surface area, it also provides a very long path for the glue to navigate when squeezing the clamps, and the glue takes more time to get into a finger joint, meaning it can start to set up. The bottom line is that when you clamp over a finger joint, excess glue may not completely squeeze out, and the glue line can be more obvious. I use the finger joint occasionally for short pieces (like cutting boards), and when I use it, I usually dilute the glue to make it easier to spread and squeeze out.

But my hands-down choice for big pieces like tabletops is the glue joint bit. With a good glue and a straight cut line, the joint is plenty strong, automatically aligns your wood, and creates a practicallly invisible glue joint. I would not join a tabletop together without it. It speeds up the whole operation because you won't waste your time trying to get the pieces aligned while your glue is drying. Major stress reduction!

Hope that these suggestions are comprehensible and useful. Happy woodworking!
2079162
I took a class from a local woodworking store to learn how to use these, but the package includes a DVD, which covers the basics.  Its pretty simple- soak the 1000 grit stone for 15 minutes, then start to work, flattening one side of the chisel then flipping it over and mimicking the angle of the cutting edge, all the time remembers to keep the stone wet by spraying water to wash away the carbon particles as they come off the steel.  If speed is your goal, keep moving as there may be faster plug in tools and ways to do the job, butif you really want it sharp and have the satisfaction of doing it your self, you're at the right spot.  The stone themselves are made in Italy, the packaging in the USA.  I took the liberty of buying a few Japanese made stones to supplement the basic set here.  Probably not needed (but I did headline this as perfect for the nutty guy, and Im afraid I qualify for that moniker).
2310065
I found this combo package at Home Depot 229. The only issue was the chuck on the drill wobbled so bad it wasn't usable. I returned it for another package and the second one had the same issue. I took it back a 3rd time and finally got drill that worked properly. The service department at HD was good to work with though. I haven't used the set much yet but it seems to be very solid.  I also purchased a 6.5" circ saw for $83 and will be using the tools to build a work bench and shelves for my new garage.  I'll update after really putting the tools to the test.
1365313
Straps either cover built in drill light or interfere with chuck clutch when trying to change direction on DeWalt 18v
4164190
Its a big bit for shaping hardwood joints. First, for those that don't know  do not, I say again, do not try a one pass bite in hardwoods and exotics if you don't have incremental feed control with hard fixturing to secure the stock on your machine.

To perfect the joint, I increment the cutting pass by <1/8 to minimize kickback and shatter. I prefer using the bit with thicker stock and ripping to fit. With a tight table saw, this approach is more successful than trying the bit on net thick stock. It takes trial runs to characterize the operation and lock in the necessary passes and dimensions.

The bit geometry produces a very strong joint. Its an interesting and attractive finished product. However, Id suggest that this is not a beginners bit in hardwood. Know your machine and stock.

Im thinking the reviewers having difficulty with the bit are using routers and maybe router tables. It would seem too big a hand router bit to hold tolerances. Im running the bit in in a fixed shaper. After set-up, Im not duplicating the failure modes others have complained about.
3724851
Working with grbl shield using A4988 steppers and grbl 1.1.

Although it has a ribbon cable attached, you can solder wires directly to to the terminals on  the motor and ignore the ribbon cable. The motor terminals are spaced about 2.5mm apart so soldering is not difficult.

There is a little screw on the side of the slide block (you can't see it in the pictures). Tightening it reduces the amount of slack/play in the slide block, but also makes it harder for the slide block to move. It should only take a few minutes to get the right balance.

You'll want to lubricate the lead screw and slide block, it makes a world of difference. I used white lithium grease.

Although the lead screw is about 50mm long, the actual movement (factoring in the size of the slide block) is 38.5mm.

I've calculated the movement at 6.75-steps-per-mm for full-step mode, or 108-steps-per-mm for 16-step microstepping mode. Using those settings, I've tested the grbl movement rate up to 3000mm/min with acceleration of 1000, in 16-step microstepping mode.

Voltage/Current:

When connecting this to a A4988 step-stick (or equivalent) you will need to use the potentiometer on the step-stick to lower the current. There are how-to's for this on YouTube. I have found that 0.20 volts gives enough torque without generating too much heat. The motor starts to heat up at 0.24 volts and gets very hot over 0.25v. The motor will still work all the way down to 0.05v, but it has almost no torque at that point. I am powering the grbl shield with a 12v regulated power supply.

Wiring:

When looking at the motor solder terminals with the screw pointed down, the wiring is:

top-left and top-right: coil A - grbl stepper connector pins 1 and 2 respectively
bottom-left and bottom-right: coil B - grbl stepper connector pins 4 and 3 respectively

I hope these details can help others!