The internal circuit is terrible, but otherwise it's OK
921727
This is a traditional-design antenna that combines a VHF dipole with a UHF loop. The telescoping dipole elements are threaded at their lower ends and screw into hinged contacts in the base. The hinges allow a range of motion between vertical and 45. The loop press-fits into the base. Inside the base there is a UHF-VHF band combining transformer with a 75 ohm output attached to a 6 ft captive cable. The cable is RG-179/U type terminated with a threaded F connector.

Most of the assembly is of acceptable quality. Exercise caution handling the telescoping elements, however, since they are made out of thin metal and can be bent easily. The base is sufficiently heavy to keep the antenna stable. While thin, the cable is high quality; it has both a foil wrap and braided wire shielding surrounding the inner dielectric.

Antenna performance, however, is terrible. For any given channel, I found that this antenna performed no better than a quarter-wavelength piece of wire jammed into the connector of my television. In contrast, a simple pair of VHF "rabbit ears" from an old TV combined with a 300 -75  matching transformer far outperformed the new RCA antenna when adjusted to have the same geometry and orientation. This was even the case for UHF channels, which aren't even in the target band of the rabbit ears.

Since the antenna element design is effectively identical to my old rabbit ears and the cable tested good, I determined that the band-combining transformer must be the weak link. I have a few spare band-combining transformers from the era of 300  TV tuners, so I transplanted the innards of one into the base of the RCA antenna. The results are fantastic; now the antenna pulls in strong signals across all bands.

In summary, I advise against buying this antenna. Its only value is in its antenna elements and base, which can be reused if you can supply a better band-combining transformer.

Note: This antenna was tested in Redwood City, CA, about 24 mi from the transmitting antenna.
3262574
It's a battle to get the clamps back in place. The meter is already broken. The double-ended lighter cable never worked. Still works, though. The internal charger is nice.
2434071
I've had this unit for about 3 months. When it works the grind is decent but getting it to work is a problem.

For the last week or two my unit would operate sporadically. Sometimes it would not turn on unless I jiggled it, moved the hopper, took out the bin and replaced it, etc.. Yesterday it would not start period. After googling around I found that these units have two safety switches - one on the hopper and one on the output bin so that it won't operate if these are not in place. Seems like the switches they use are junk and go bad pretty easily. Took mine apart (because who has time to try to replace under warranty - I NEED my coffee now!) and found that the safety switch on the hopper was faulty. Easy solution was to take it out of the circuit so it is always "on".

Put it back together and it works! Made a pot of coffee and could move on with my life. Today it didn't want to run again. I have to move the cup selector back and forth so I fear this switch/timer circuit is going bad. Unless small appliance repair is your hobby, do your self a favor and stay away.
3754890
This cable is extremely finicky, and is more trouble then it's worth.  I am connecting an HP laptop to an external monitor from VGA to HDMI.  I had been using my sister's adapter that works well, so I decided to purchase my own.  This cable will about 1/4 of the time create a connection to my other monitor, and otherwise it will flash my screen continuously as if it connecting, and then failing, and then connecting again.  Now in these 1/4 it does work, I can DISCONNECT THE CABLE BY BLOWING ON IT.

Essentially my diagnosis is poor internal wiring, because my computer/monitor works perfectly fine connecting through other VGA/HDMI adapters.
4649440
While it works, it is OK.  I was using it for strokes/minute (spm) beeper, and noticed that it was timing incorrectly, beeping only 54/min when set to 60; pulling the battery fixed that, but it was one of those "I wonder how long it's been doing that?" moments.  Now I check every couple of weeks against a stopwatch.

Buttons are a bit finicky, and turning it off with soft fingernails and cold fingers is challenging (push both bottom buttons together - usually results in changing the timing by a few counts because only one button is down for a second or two), but overall it's not hard to remember or figure out on the fly -- it's a beeper with two control buttons, and a third (top) button only used to sync to an external clock source.  Why could they not have used the top button held for 1 full sec for on/off?

At four months of 3 hrs/week it appears to have died with visible internal condensation; got erratic one session, did not start at all two days later.  Switched batteries, etc.  I'm drying it out now, but clearly a poorly sealed unit that seems unsatisfactory for it's purpose.
4087130
The circuit board itself is working fine and it fixed the problem I was having with the microphone not working.

BUT BEWARE there is a very easy mistake to make when replacing this circuit board. I made the mistake and now my home button no longer works.

Before you remove this circuit board, you must disconnect ***TWO*** cables from it -- one is fairly obvious and the other is not. If you do not disconnect them both, you will probably end up tearing the cable that goes to the "home" button, like I did. See the attached photo with the torn cable still attached to the old circuit board.

(It looks like Amazon sells the home button/cable assembly too. But I am not sure yet if I will invest more money in repairing this phone.)

Also, next time I would buy the kit without the tools. The screwdrivers were of poor quality and the tips were malformed. I used my own 2mm Phillips head screwdriver and discarded theirs. I did use one of the plastic pry tools to separate the phone case.
1724952
So far they work OK. It has a less than helpful design for the user interface in several ways.
There are 4 LED lights on the charging/signal stand, none of which is power. After the unit has been on  a few minutes, and the unit is charged and inactive, there are no lights, leading one to think power has been lost. I hope this gets fixed in the replacement model.
Also regarding user experience, controls on my old RS140 gave tactile feedback, so I could use them with the headset on. Not so with the push-button interface on the earpiece of the RS170. Buttons are small, and you have to take the headset off to be sure you press the right ones. I hope this also gets fixed in the replacement model.
3606100
For the price, it okay. Has the internal shunt for 10 amps, but mine only registers up to about 6.7 amps. Anything above that won't register (stays stuck at 6.7 until current falls below that point then works normally again). Maybe just a defect in the one I got.
1456440
it works. But the design is terrible. the distance between each outlet is too short, so at most  2-outlets can be used at the same time. And the edge is too wide, so it will block other outlet.
1679529
defective internal lighting system, both bulbs are fine, wiring is not
wish a repair man would correct
1715248
I'm really surprised this has such high reviews. It is cheap and it does work but that's about it. The display face is very far set into the gauge. This means the gauge has to be right in front of you to read it. I previously had my gauges by my hvac controls but this gauge was usless there so I had to move it to my a-pillar. Now it is OK. The second problem i found is that there seems to be a loose connection in my gauge internally. Every 20-30 seconds power is cut and the gauge blinks. It's quite annoying. I've ruled it to be internal to the device after some testing with it.
4012334
The head has 2 spots for fuses which is f***ing annoying because only one works while the other gets in the way if you have a spare fuse in it.
4853238
It works well most of the time, but there's a design flaw that causes it to overload the USB controller when transferring large amounts of data. So, when downloading things your mouse/keyboard/internet connection might reboot and become unusable for 2+ minutes at a time.

This is tolerable enough for most uses, but it keeps shorting every time I try to use my wireless printer via ethernet/my router, causing the printer to dump a half-printed page out when it stops receiving data...as well as making the computer unusable for a minute. I'm going to have to buy an equally priced cable to compensate for the poor design of this cable adapter; might as well have just purchased a more reputable branded one in the first place and spent the extra to avoid the inconvenience.
4170300
There's several things I like and dislike about this juicer.

The good: its strong and works. Plus it's not outrageously hard to clean.

The bad: even though it's not hard to clean, the design is kinda poor. It literally explodes the food as you drop them in. This sudden explosion just seems to just be useless and your particles are left inside for you to scrape clean later. Why isn't it put in a collector outside the unit?

The ugly: it's loud and shakes. It's about as loud as a vacuum cleaner and it will shake off the counter if you don't hold it.

So if you wear an apron and eye glasses for the explosion of food. Hearing protection for the noise. You'll be just fine.

Cheers
4357132
The good: range is ok, it's loud enough to hear.

The ok: no volume control, and the sound is a little too loud for the amplifier, so the sound is slightly distorted (like your stereo turned up too loud).

The bad: the case for the transmitter comes in two pieces that didn't fit together. After I took a knife and shaved off some of the plastic, I could get the front to clip onto the back, but it's still not a very solid fit and I worry about it falling off. Meanwhile, the included screws are apparently made out of butter; using an electric screwdriver, I stripped the head of the first one so badly I had to use pliers to remove it, and then using a normal screwdriver that fit perfectly and being very careful, I was still barely able to get the other screws in.
1532043
Works ok, but few issues.  My major complaints are:

1) The backlight circuit has a known issue (at least on my specific shield).  The Arduino forums have a substantial thread detailing the problem.  Some manufacturers have corrected it, others haven't or are still selling older stock.  My particular Sainsmart shield has the problem and I had to correct it by cutting a trace and soldering in a resistor to keep from damaging my Arduino.

2) The buttons are of poor quality and break down fairly quickly (the plastic itself breaks apart quickly).  I ended up desoldering and replacing all of them and have no problems since.  I replaced with similar 6mm x 6mm tactile switches of higher quality.  Cheap, but time consuming.

Other than that, everything seems to function as expected, and I do like the the use of A0 for the buttons.

I've found the shield useful, but not sure I would buy this exact model again without first clarifying that the D10 issue has been fixed and even then, I'm displeased with the button/switch fragility.
1822789
The product itself isn't bad.  It seems to work well when wired properly.

The wiring is tough to fit, sometimes the plugs pop off the board, so double check that if you have a speaker that isn't working.

The gasket is terrible.  Mine was deformed during shipping, and I had to glue it in place section by section in order to get it to set correctly.  It still doesn't sit perfectly.