Installed this as a push button start on a 1973 ...
930066
Installed this as a push button start on a 1973 Bronco with a faulty ignition switch.  The switch works flawlessly.
452937
I decided to freshen up my old Craftsman compressor in stead trashing it.  I am glad I did.  With a new paint job and new switch (so now it turns off when it reaches 100psi) it works like it did 25 years ago. The switch is pretty straight forward and works fine. There is a wiring diagram; just put the two black wires side by side and the two white wires side by side.
1068861
Fixed my wife's 2012 Nissan juke starting problem, couldn't find any info online about changing part out but here's a quick write up the connector that you have to remove has a push in pin in the center top very hard to see and push and to remove old switch out twist counter 90 degrees and it just pops out.  It is so tight in the area it's hard to see or a contoursionist.
4383756
After installing this and finding no power upon turning the ignition switch on, I traced down the problem to this product. The description suggests it is a direct replacement for the OEM part for Magna VF750C from 1994 - 2003.  I have a 94 and it is NOT.  In this product the battery and motor terminals have been reversed: If you connect the battery to the terminal on the left in the photograph, as you would to the original, it does not pass through any power.  So when you turn on the ignition you get nothing.  You would have to attach the battery's short cable to the terminal on the right in the photo, and the cable going to the starter crossing it to the terminal on the left.  When you do that, however, the rubber cover no longer fits over the terminals as intended insuring that the battery terminal is fully isolated.

If you read reviews of several other low-cost aftermarket examples, you will see that they too have reversed terminals.  I thought this one would be wired correctly just as described, but I was wrong.  After reversing the connections, it may work as intended, but I don't intend to find out.
3018652
Used to replace a motor I had to push start. Exactly the same as the one I replaced only cheaper.
63313
did  not make my hard to start relatively new craftsman pushmower start any better than before. It works but...
3270088
Switch works OK, no problem except the push button should be black (the original was black as others switches in the car).
3847643
This took me five minutes to program/install. Worked on my 1993 lift master opener.  Complaints about the cover are silly.
403359
I bought this starter in March but did not install it until today . It was easy to install ,even with headers in my1992 f 150,and works great so far.
641943
Purchased this board as a replacement for use in an opener that was installed in 1998. It was after partially installing that I realized that the mounting holes didn't match the the holes on the cover at the bottom. Also, the old board was 'dog eared' at the bottom whereas this replacement was not, therefore the cover would not fit. My solution was to remove the printed circuit portion and install it on the old backing, then putting everything back together. The good thing is that it works perfectly now and programming the remotes was straight forward and easy.
4068628
The order came faster than what was posted.  I followed the instructions on how to program my keyless remotes and got it right the first time!  Both of them.  Its been over a month and works like new on my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer LS.  These are the instructions I used:
1. Close all doors

2. Insert key into ignition

3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver's door panel, continue to hold down
until instructed to release in step 9.

4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in a fairly rapid succession.

5. Turn the ignition to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine.)

6. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.

7. Turn the ignition to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine.)

8. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.

9. Release the power UNLOCK button on the door panel. The vehicle should respond by
door locks locking and unlocking automatically. (If locks do not cycle after you let go,
not before you let go of the unlock button, then the vehicle has not entered programming
mode and you must start procedure over. Remove key from ignition, open drivers door
and return to step 1 ). If the locks do cycle automatically then proceed to step 10.

10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the remote until the doors lock and
unlock. This may take up to 30 seconds.

11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional remote. (Including any existing remotes).

12. Turn the ignition to the ON position to exit the programming mode.

13. Test remote(
If after useing the above info you still cant program your remote please take your remote to your local chevy dealers service dept. They have a special kent moore tool that test remotes to see if there working correctly. Best of luck.
Source(s):
1419642
I used this on my '73 international skid loader.  It had a mechanical pump that was faulty.  This is a way cheaper option and easy to hook up to the ignition switch.
2317593
I installed the solenoid and it started the ATV 3 times then failed.  You can hear the solenoid click but there is not continuity between the two large studs.  Its a because it seems to be an exact replacement for stock but obviously doesn't have the same quality.
3414072
I put this in my 1998 Range Rover as a replacement for the oem unit that died (as they all do). Rather than spend $400 on a new motor-switch assembly I bought this and replaced the bad one on my brake pump assembly. First one sent was bad when I tested it with the multi-meter. Amazon replaced it, immediately. No issues, at all, after that. **Remember to replace your accumulator and relay at the same time that you replace this pressure switch or you may end up burning up this switch, too. Do not ever replace your accumulator with a used one. Bite the bullet and buy a new one.
1890032
Other reviews said that if there was a purple button on the actual garage door motor, then this would work. Well they were right. I had it programmed and installed in less than 5 minutes. Clear instructions on the actual keypad itself. Only hiccup was that I had to re-program my car after programming the keypad.
3368457
Success! I saved myself hundreds of dollars by not having to replace my opener! So glad I bought this. My garage opener is a Sears model 139.655000 circa 1979 opener that had 1 remote which broke. I tried the universal remotes at Home Depot thinking they would work as long as I matched the dip switch code exactly. No go. My receiver still worked (Sears model 139.654020) however now there was no remote on the market to work with it. I thought I would try this option before shelling out the $300-$400 to replace the opener itself. It worked!  With the new receiver plugged into an outlet I then wired the bell cable from the receiver to my existing opener, replacing the existing bell cable. This of course bypassed my old receiver. I programmed the remotes as instructed and bam! The garage opens with the new remotes and from the receiver button.

For those of you curious....my old remote/transmitter was Sears model 134.654031

Tips:
It is best if you can plug the receiver into an outlet where it's handy to get to since it has the button on it to open the garage door from being inside your garage. If this is not possible at least this comes with 2 remotes so you can use one to keep in a handy spot in your garage to open the door and then just keep the other remote in your car.

The bell wire that is provided is very long but just to clarify it does have to run from that receiver that you have plugged in an outlet and up to the garage unit opener itself. I plugged my receiver in an outlet near my garage door to my house and I secured the cable up the wall and along the garage ceiling then down to the opener bell cable screws.

I hope this helps someone in the same pickle I was in.
3355997
These switches work great!  I have a Craftsman LT1000. It failed to start. No solenoid click, engine would not turn over.  Testing the 2 interlock switches for continuity in the two button positions of the switch suggested the were working correctly(continuity on the black wire side with the button in one position, continuity on the white wire side with the button in the other position).  But still no current got to the white side of the solenoid switch(ignition circuit) with the key in start position!(of course with brake depressed) What could be wrong??  Well... when I put jumpers across the white wires of the ignition circuit, thereby bypassing both switches,(wire harnesses removed from both of the interlock switches)(basically bypassing the switches) the engine would then start! It turns out both switches were bad. I replaced them both and engine now start up fine.  What a brain teaser!!
Switch one is behind the dash, easy to find.  Switch two is below the solenoid, that was very difficult to extract and replace. I had to put the tractor up on blocks,  lower the deck by removing all the hitch pins(could then push it aside, without removing the belts).  Then had to remove the rear Pivot Bracket assembly(one bolt) (this opened up the view,and was key!).  Had to remove all three rods that that attach to the foot pedal shaft, and only then could switch two be dropped out and replaced. Pretty difficult!  Having someone repair it for me would have, I'm sure, cost me a lot more that the tractor is now worth!
Also, be aware, there is a spring retention(part# 169671 on my tractor) lever which holds the clutch rod in place, at the bottom, so that the switch button is pressed.  If the spring is broken(a $-$8 part) the switch will not close an allow the tractor to start. make sure you check this out before you buy a new switch.(I wound up replacing both, but it probably was the spring that was the major issue!)