It appears the controller itself is metal and have heatsinking abilities. My enclosure is plastic. How hot does it get at full load?
242339
I purchased 3 of them for our ham radio organization to use on 18 AH batteries in three of our portable radio stations. We haven't used them as of this date, the stations stay on battery tenders at the Red Cross office. I don't think you will have a problem unless you load them to near maximun load, we are using them to control the voltage going to the batteries only and not running the load through the controller.
242340
You know,I never noticed it getting hot. Mine was mounted in the refrigerator unit compartment where it has plenty of ventilation.
242341
I haven't noticed it being hot. I have mine mounted in the open under my solar panels, so I can't tell you what it would be like in an enclosure.
1477213
I've had issue with it getting hot enough. I just got some other tips to try to see if they will work better. I know a soldering gun does get hotter.
1283050
Just a note these controllers wont do zip when the input amps are below 15. The two Panels most likely will not enough to fire is up. DM 145 Watt panel crank out on;y 7.7 each amps on a good day. I Bought this CC and had an electrician (Who Wasnt Cheep) confirm this about the CC. Dont get me wrone thee CC will work but you will need to put three 124 watt panels on it. If you want a CC controller that will do the two with ease. Check out the HF CC 30 amp 500 watt CC by thunderbolt. Its about the same amout of cash on amazon. Good luck on your decision.PS If you go with this one the manual stinks. Learn chinese Just a note these controllers wont do zip when the input amps are below 15. The two Panels most likely will not enough to fire is up. DM 145 Watt panel crank out on;y 7.7 each amps on a good day. I Bought this CC and had an electrician (Who Wasnt Cheep) confirm this about the CC. Dont get me wrone thee CC will work but you will need to put three 124 watt panels on it. If you want a CC controller that will do the two with ease. Check out the HF CC 30 amp 500 watt CC by thunderbolt. Its about the same amout of cash on amazon. Good luck on your decision.PS If you go with this one the... » Read More Just a note these controllers wont do zip when the input amps are below 15. The two Panels most likely will not enough to fire is up. DM 145 Watt panel crank out on;y 7.7 each amps on a good day. I Bought this CC and had an electrician (Who Wasnt Cheep) confirm this about the CC. Dont get me wrone thee CC will work but you will need to put three 124 watt panels on it. If you want a CC controller that will do the two with ease. Check out the HF CC 30 amp 500 watt CC by thunderbolt. Its about the same amout of cash on amazon. Good luck on your decision.PS If you go with this one the manual stinks. Learn chinese « Show Less
1154490
No it shouldn't get hot when the gain is on half power check and make sure your power cables are at least 4ga
649614
It's plastic. I have an SSD installed in mine and there is no heat issues, if you're going to use a conventional HD it should still be okay.
241224
No temp. control. Turn the switch on, wait a few seconds, hold the button down, then 10 seconds later it's probably 450F or more (my solder melts at 380F). I think it may get hotter than that, but you can't set or control it.
1166451
I would have my doubts. It didn't work well with heat applications for me. When it gets too hot it seems to get soft. It may depend on how hot it gets . . . not sure. I would probably try solder for that. (?) Dale
1983912
Even during intense raiding (4 hours no break) it would never get hot. Very well built. There is a reason every top gamer uses razer.
1413105
The pad is set for a certain max temp but the controller is basically a rheostat (dimmer switch) that reduces the amount of current going to the pad.
1852178
7 watts is the max I think on this controller. Use a light cord (one with ribs). It is find in size and strong. Solder then you will have a better connection at the end of the copper wire.
2163563
I THINK so, Friend Sutherland... This unit SEEMS to have no built-in Loading Resistor Array (as my other one had) to overheat and raise the Stench Level. This unit clearly tests for UNLOADED PSU voltages; imho the price reflects that lightweight design. OTOH, searching the Web on the terms [ ATX Molex pinout ] will reliably reveal the Two Magic Pins that are momentarily connected to each other in order to to start the works whenever the Box's front-panel button is pressed from cold-start... One wee jumper, permanently bridging those two adjacent Molex pins, will Just Do the Job for No Money. That's what I do in MY lab whenever called-for. Hasn't ever failed me. Just doing what the test appliance does, is all! ;) And that is all. 0{;-)o[
1984723
I would get a thermal silicone rubber insulator and mount the P/S against a metal plate via the four metric sized corner holes. A die cast aluminum box, like those made by Hammond, would make a dandy heat sink as well as a case. The problem is getting to the in/out selector push button and making a window to see the voltage. For my application, I just used sticky two sided mounting tape and stuck it to the chassis. Sticky back Velcro also works but can be difficult to release and Velcro is a terrible heat diffuser. 4-40 screws are difficult for mounting as the nuts and the heads of the screws create an "interference fit". I would get a thermal silicone rubber insulator and mount the P/S against a metal plate via the four metric sized corner holes. A die cast aluminum box, like those made by Hammond, would make a dandy heat sink as well as a case. The problem is getting to the in/out selector push button and making a window to see the voltage. For my application, I just used sticky two sided mounting tape and stuck it to the chassis. Sticky back Velcro also works but can be difficult to release and Velcro is a terrible heat diffuser. 4-40 screws are difficult for mounting as the nuts and the heads of the... » Read More I would get a thermal silicone rubber insulator and mount the P/S against a metal plate via the four metric sized corner holes. A die cast aluminum box, like those made by Hammond, would make a dandy heat sink as well as a case. The problem is getting to the in/out selector push button and making a window to see the voltage. For my application, I just used sticky two sided mounting tape and stuck it to the chassis. Sticky back Velcro also works but can be difficult to release and Velcro is a terrible heat diffuser. 4-40 screws are difficult for mounting as the nuts and the heads of the screws create an "interference fit". « Show Less
2266852
WAAAAY too hot! I wouldn't put it directly on an enclosure. Put it beneath, leaving some airspace between it and the enclosure. Then check it with a thermometer after a while, because they are full of malarkey when they say it runs at 100 degrees. Try 130.
109318
what controller are we talking about. I have installed a lot of MM. Can you be more specific.
1228833
It all depends on how hot the innards of the actual LEDs and the ICs (chips) on the circuit boards get. So long as they're keeping the devices "cool" then it doesn't matter if the box gets hot. However, a hot plastic box is usually a sign of even hotter innards - most plastics are quite poor conductors of heat. There's a photo of a "Luxcine" LED projector on an eBay auction page I saw. That thing had a fancy-looking heat pipe and heatsink assembly for keeping the LEDs cool. I am intrigued as to what LG have done in this puppy.
726003
My unit paddle frame has also turned darker (almost black) in the middle of the paddle rim, but it still works well. It appears that the plastic in that section gets pretty hot during the time the switch is pressed. So far, not a problem.
1476441
The housing is plastic and the bracket is metal. The LED produces little heatso it is not a problem.