I've never used a bore snake before, how does it compare to rods and patches? It seems to me this system wouldn't work as well. I can use my rods with attachments(brass brushes) in a electric drill and go to town on bores, this just doesn't seem as effective. I've never used a bore snake before, how does it compare to rods and patches? It seems to me this system wouldn't work as well. I can use my rods with attachments(brass brushes) in a... » Read More I've never used a bore snake before, how does it compare to rods and patches? It seems to me this system wouldn't work as well. I can use my rods with attachments(brass brushes) in a electric drill and go to town on bores, this just doesn't seem as effective. « Show Less
251349
You'd be surprised. It's not a deep deep clean that you can get with rods and patches, but for cleaning your barrel after a couple hundred rounds at the range? Can't beat it. And about 10x faster and easier than traditional rods and patches.
251350
I've never used rods and patches, because I've been happy with how bore snakes work. I'll usually let the foaming 'break free' spray that I use soak for 20+ minutes and then pull the snake through a few times, then looking down the barrel (from the back while disassembled, of course) and it's always shiny throughout. As long as you get the right caliber snake it's a very snug fit and there are metal brushes along the head-first end of it.Most people who use boresnakes are so happy with them that they never mess with rods/patches again or ever need to. All of the enthusiasts I know use boresnakes... I've never used rods and patches, because I've been happy with how bore snakes work. I'll usually let the foaming 'break free' spray that I use soak for 20+ minutes and then pull the snake through a few times, then looking down the barrel (from the back while disassembled, of course) and it's always shiny throughout. As long as you get the right caliber snake it's a very snug fit and there are metal brushes along the head-first end of it.Most people who use boresnakes are so happy with them that they never mess with rods/patches again or ever need to. All of the enthusiasts I... » Read More I've never used rods and patches, because I've been happy with how bore snakes work. I'll usually let the foaming 'break free' spray that I use soak for 20+ minutes and then pull the snake through a few times, then looking down the barrel (from the back while disassembled, of course) and it's always shiny throughout. As long as you get the right caliber snake it's a very snug fit and there are metal brushes along the head-first end of it.Most people who use boresnakes are so happy with them that they never mess with rods/patches again or ever need to. All of the enthusiasts I know use boresnakes... « Show Less
251351
Well, glad you asked. I love this snake. About 1/4 of the way from the pointy end (metal weight) there is a wire brush. I dip mine in Hoppe's #9 bore cleaner and pull it through. A bit hard at first but it will go through. It's wiped by the raggy portion of the snake as you pull. Now I put a little TW25 gun grease on the snake several inches behind the wire brush and pull it through again. Oiled clean as a wistle. Maybe 5 minutes at the most in time. I may do the bore clean several times but not the grease. Spend the rest of my time polishing the rest of the piece.
251352
The Snake bore cleaner does not replace the Rod and brass brushes for cleaning your gun. It is for when you are out shooting, (many rounds) that it is a easy and fast way to keep your guns clean and shooting good. I would not use a electric drill with the rods to clean a gun. It should only take a few times down the barrel to clean the bore. Be careful you could damage the bore using a drill less control.
251353
This was actually my first bore snake and let me tell you it reduced my cleaning time by a lot! First of all the snake itself is very sturdy made and has brass in the actual material that helps to scratch the inside of the bore from residue and the rest of the snake just removes it and it seems more effective and efficient then when I cleaned with patches and rods. Honestly I would reccomend you give it a try and amazon has the cheapest onces I've seen unless some stores have it on sale but this was the best price I found. Great stuff!
251354
That sounds like a really BAD idea. First of all, if your bores are so dirty that you felt inclined to put a power tool in them they must be really bad. Second, copper lead and brass are very soft metals, but I wouldn't put any other metals at high speed through my barrels.
1057715
Pretty much what I did last year. Haven't seen any snakes. I had driven copperheads out from under cabin and deck with mothballs and used product in follow-up when impressed by initial effect.
2022500
The handle is not fixed it is threaded to the rod but you can turn the bore brush in one direction, it is also very long so if you push it thru the barrel you are able to turn it and it will be different when you bring it back thru. The rods also have one that will spin you can use it or leave it off. Without the rod that will spin the system extend up to 28" with out tips. The additional rod make it 4" longer.
524671
My motor is fine and I too need the drill attachment piece. I am having trouble finding a replacement online and the more I search the more people I come across with this problem. It seems to me that this drill is inferior...
1785480
Yes you can. This set will clean most guns. The only differance is there is no solid cleaning rod. It uses cables to swab and scrub useing their own brand of patches. Go to you tube to see it in action. I like you can use it in almost all guns,and I use it regularly,but I still like a solid cleaning rod. The brushes are cheap as well they don't last very long. I think they should have used a stiff nylon brushes instead
1556497
The bore guide ensures proper alignment of a cleaning rod to prevent unnecessary throat wear during the cleaning process. A bore snake is flexible and pulled through from the muzzle, so while a guide is unnecessary it's a different process all together. If you plan on using a rod get a guide. More barrels have been ruined by cleaning than shooting.
300104
I'm glad I read these answers, because I've been tearing apart my bench for the past 30 minutes looking for the muzzle guard I don't remember being there when I removed the rod from the package. I don't know why I care so much, I've never been able to effectively use one while my hands were busy holding the firearm and the cleaning rod. ;)Nonexistent guard aside, this rod is the bomb! I should have bought this years ago. I'm going to order the 36" rod for my rifles. I'm sick of fighting with the Otis cables.
1866025
These are all-in-one taps for going through sheet or bar stock. I take it that you're looking to put a threaded hole into the end of a 1/2" aluminum rod (not a through hole at a tangent to its radius). For the hole a #21 drill size is optimal and then you will need a bottoming tap or at least a taper tap going a bit beyond your screw length. I would work up to the target drill size with a pilot hole after first using a punch on the center of the end of the rod stock. If you are doing this across the radius of the rod stock, then you will need something to keep the piece secure, use a punch to get a point where the drill bit won't walk, and if it were me I would drill a pilot hole first less than half the diameter of the all-in-one drill-tap. You will need to go slow with aluminum, do a bit of backing out to clear out chips and then carefully threading in again. Use cutting fluid while doing all of this in sparing amounts to help in getting well formed threads.
1274083
Is this tool a must, no not really, a bore snake could work and isn't bad for use in the field. Should you have one I would say yes. You will need to do a more thorough cleaning than a bore snake provides. Cleaning from the muzzle is a big no no. When it comes to cleaning a rifle you risk damaging the muzzle crown and affecting the accuracy of the barrel. Wheeler makes a nice little link that holds the upper and lower open and then with this guide it's a piece of cake to clean. It reduces the effort, time and mess involved for doing a proper cleaning all while protecting the accuracy of your barrel. Is this tool a must, no not really, a bore snake could work and isn't bad for use in the field. Should you have one I would say yes. You will need to do a more thorough cleaning than a bore snake provides. Cleaning from the muzzle is a big no no. When it comes to cleaning a rifle you risk damaging the muzzle crown and affecting the accuracy of the barrel. Wheeler makes a nice little link that holds the upper and lower open and then with this guide it's a piece of cake to clean. It reduces the effort, time and mess involved for doing a proper cleaning all while protecting the accuracy of... » Read More Is this tool a must, no not really, a bore snake could work and isn't bad for use in the field. Should you have one I would say yes. You will need to do a more thorough cleaning than a bore snake provides. Cleaning from the muzzle is a big no no. When it comes to cleaning a rifle you risk damaging the muzzle crown and affecting the accuracy of the barrel. Wheeler makes a nice little link that holds the upper and lower open and then with this guide it's a piece of cake to clean. It reduces the effort, time and mess involved for doing a proper cleaning all while protecting the accuracy of your barrel. « Show Less
1997675
Wow, that's a toughie. It fills the shell area on my 2-3/4 1100, but you're talking another 3/4 inches. As the shell is kicked out of the breach, the front of the shell makes a hard right with the shell catcher in place, then the wire snags the big brass end and the shell is captured. The brass is toward the rear. If it's installed so the rear of the catcher is toward the rear of the breach, it may just work fine. Just make sure the rear area of the catcher is even with the rear of the breach. I'd like to know if this works out. Shooting clays with a 3-1/2 inch gun may be more than your shoulder will allow! If you're capturing just a few hunting loads, you'll be fine. Wow, that's a toughie. It fills the shell area on my 2-3/4 1100, but you're talking another 3/4 inches. As the shell is kicked out of the breach, the front of the shell makes a hard right with the shell catcher in place, then the wire snags the big brass end and the shell is captured. The brass is toward the rear. If it's installed so the rear of the catcher is toward the rear of the breach, it may just work fine. Just make sure the rear area of the catcher is even with the rear of the breach. I'd like to know if this works out. Shooting clays with a 3-1/2 inch gun may be more than your... » Read More Wow, that's a toughie. It fills the shell area on my 2-3/4 1100, but you're talking another 3/4 inches. As the shell is kicked out of the breach, the front of the shell makes a hard right with the shell catcher in place, then the wire snags the big brass end and the shell is captured. The brass is toward the rear. If it's installed so the rear of the catcher is toward the rear of the breach, it may just work fine. Just make sure the rear area of the catcher is even with the rear of the breach. I'd like to know if this works out. Shooting clays with a 3-1/2 inch gun may be more than your shoulder will allow! If you're capturing just a few hunting loads, you'll be fine. « Show Less
112355
I got both the larger gopher and smaller mole size traps. I have found that inserting the trap into the gopher tunnel, then opening the jaws works well. You will want to set the trap with a "hair trigger" anyway, so it's simpler to open the jaws once it's in place. Check out YouTube for people actually using the traps. These traps are used by pros who trap for a living on golf courses, vineyards, etc.It's a simple and very effective design. I usually get a kill with a day. Gophers are destructive but predictable. Think like the Gopher! Know your enemy! Come on - we're killin gophers here - lighten up! I got both the larger gopher and smaller mole size traps. I have found that inserting the trap into the gopher tunnel, then opening the jaws works well. You will want to set the trap with a "hair trigger" anyway, so it's simpler to open the jaws once it's in place. Check out YouTube for people actually using the traps. These traps are used by pros who trap for a living on golf courses, vineyards, etc.It's a simple and very effective design. I usually get a kill with a day. Gophers are destructive but predictable. Think like the Gopher! Know your enemy! Come on - we're killin... » Read More I got both the larger gopher and smaller mole size traps. I have found that inserting the trap into the gopher tunnel, then opening the jaws works well. You will want to set the trap with a "hair trigger" anyway, so it's simpler to open the jaws once it's in place. Check out YouTube for people actually using the traps. These traps are used by pros who trap for a living on golf courses, vineyards, etc.It's a simple and very effective design. I usually get a kill with a day. Gophers are destructive but predictable. Think like the Gopher! Know your enemy! Come on - we're killin gophers here - lighten up! « Show Less
334834
I guess I would say that the attachments were more small and medium. The smaller attachment is a bristle type, the larger attachments has hard bristles. Just didn't work for me, the attachments kept coming off until it finally just broke. That's just my experience though.
1274080
it makes cleaning the bore much easier, and you will do a better job. if you have invested in the rifle it's worth spending a little more for this to keep it clean. i think you would be better off just using a bore snake rather than jamming a brush down the muzzle. you have a nice rifle, take care of it.
1685251
This is basically the same as a nut gatherer. Bear in mind that both come in different sizes. I am not using mine as I work mostly in gravel environments, and this device simply does not work in that environment. It works well on hard and smooth surfaces, but then again so does a broom and dust bin. My advice is to save your money and work your thighs and back by picking up brass the old fashioned way ... one at a time, manually. Get a workout in a good cause.
371198
I bought a cable with a dog clip on each end to go around my tree,then I threaded the free end of the boss through it and used the 2 clamps to secure.It has been up for awhile now and works a treat.It can be used to lengthen but in my case our dog was pulling the clamps and still able to reach the fence to dig.This way the join stops him.Also I didnt realize the weight limit for this runner .My boxer is much heavier and a puller (33kg) and it holds him just fine. I would suggest spraying all metal though as the clips rusted very quickly,but its only surface rust,I just give it a spray of WD40 every few weeks.You could use a bit of chain and thread through that as well. I bought a cable with a dog clip on each end to go around my tree,then I threaded the free end of the boss through it and used the 2 clamps to secure.It has been up for awhile now and works a treat.It can be used to lengthen but in my case our dog was pulling the clamps and still able to reach the fence to dig.This way the join stops him.Also I didnt realize the weight limit for this runner .My boxer is much heavier and a puller (33kg) and it holds him just fine. I would suggest spraying all metal though as the clips rusted very quickly,but its only surface rust,I just give it a spray of... » Read More I bought a cable with a dog clip on each end to go around my tree,then I threaded the free end of the boss through it and used the 2 clamps to secure.It has been up for awhile now and works a treat.It can be used to lengthen but in my case our dog was pulling the clamps and still able to reach the fence to dig.This way the join stops him.Also I didnt realize the weight limit for this runner .My boxer is much heavier and a puller (33kg) and it holds him just fine. I would suggest spraying all metal though as the clips rusted very quickly,but its only surface rust,I just give it a spray of WD40 every few weeks.You could use a bit of chain and thread through that as well. « Show Less
2016016
I would go with the rod cleaning if its for home. The pull through is more for the person out in the field on a hunt because it is easy to carry with you.I have both and they will both work. This is the way i look at it. hope this helps. Bo
2225406
Hi Mike - My personal experience with this pick up is with the violin model. No drilling was necessary and the sound is great. My bass player installed one of these on his upright and the sound is superb - the best bass sound I have heard. I'm 99% sure that all you need to do is loosen your strings, slide the element under your bridge and tighten your strings back up. As for the mounting of the line in adapter, just figure a way to mount it (tape it, etc.) to your tail piece. I would also suggest stuffing a piece of sponge or insulation between your tail piece and the top of your bass if the closeness of the mount causes a vibration. Have fun. It's a great product. Hi Mike - My personal experience with this pick up is with the violin model. No drilling was necessary and the sound is great. My bass player installed one of these on his upright and the sound is superb - the best bass sound I have heard. I'm 99% sure that all you need to do is loosen your strings, slide the element under your bridge and tighten your strings back up. As for the mounting of the line in adapter, just figure a way to mount it (tape it, etc.) to your tail piece. I would also suggest stuffing a piece of sponge or insulation between your tail piece and the top of your bass if... » Read More Hi Mike - My personal experience with this pick up is with the violin model. No drilling was necessary and the sound is great. My bass player installed one of these on his upright and the sound is superb - the best bass sound I have heard. I'm 99% sure that all you need to do is loosen your strings, slide the element under your bridge and tighten your strings back up. As for the mounting of the line in adapter, just figure a way to mount it (tape it, etc.) to your tail piece. I would also suggest stuffing a piece of sponge or insulation between your tail piece and the top of your bass if the closeness of the mount causes a vibration. Have fun. It's a great product. « Show Less