My Fuji S5s have incredible "peaches and cream" skin tones right out of the camera. My Nikons do not, even with custom white balance and studio lights - how are the skin tones on this camera?
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Skin tones from the XT1 in my eyes seem to be right on. I cannot compare the S5s or the Nikons as I have not shot a Nikon in years nor the Fuji S5s. Coming from a Leica M8 which always rendered skin warm I can say the XT1 is very natural to my eye.
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I dropped my older S8200 camera Christmas day and just purchased another one because I loved this camera so much. I used my camera every week for 2 years. Never did I have this problem. I never had any iissues.I would contact Nikon about the problem and see if they will replace your camera, or at least repair it if it's a warranty issue.
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Thanks very much. By the way, we have a Canon G12. I feel it too distorting both colours and proportions and of course slow between 2 clicks. What would you suggest to improve on "fidelity" and speed: A. Canon S100 over Nikon P7100 (and Olympus XZ-1?)?B. Olympus E-PM1 over Nikon J1? C. or Nikon V1 solves everything? PS. I have no Nikon lenses so I am not stuck on Nikon. Thanks
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I had a Fuji and the pics were washed out. Returned it and got the Canon SX110IS and if you want it you will have to pry it from my cold dead hands!...
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I never compared the two versions, I used the first edition only because it's more compact, light, less expensive, has built in shade what I really like. I use only on Fuji cameras without worries. I heard the version two also have purple fringing issues with some cameras but visible only on large images, also fringing is easy to fix with the latest softwares like Lightroom. I shoot almost exclusively B&W; so color fringing don't bother me so much. V2 might be more corrected but I can't tell.
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Hey everyone, I just found a review of a pre-production model of the HS10. It is on Photgraphy Bab web-site. Here's a link to the review!http://www.photographybay.com/2010/02/25/fuji-hs10-hands-on-review/?awt_l=GAUdB&aw;t_m=1eZxHEDHEf62xuIt does give more insight into the camera and a few negatives but the reviewer sure sounded excited by this camera.
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A word about the D800. I downloaded the 20 megabite sample jpeg image files nikon provides and tried my hand at working with them in photoshop and Topaz filters. I see some color banding in the shadows, hmm? Has any one else tried working them?The other thing is that I noticed is with 36mp images at 20MB's your post processing times to slow to a crawl.
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I think the skin tones are great. But this is subjective. So it is hard to say how you would like it. I like the Fuji colors. They are realistic...unlike the Olympus colors which seem to put an orange/warming filter cast on everything.
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I purchased a D5000 in July and have been very satisfied with it. Great camera. I recently received an email from Nikon about this problem. My s# is 304**** and they say it has the problem. I haven't sent it in yet. I'm having a problem with fixing something that works fine.
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I have the Sony. (Took 3 thousand photos and video on an international trip). It is mostly fine, but there are 2 complaints with which I agree on the message boards. 1. Blue purple tint and glare from the lens coating in bright sunlight. 2. In general, not perfectly sharp pictures usually. (I have 5 year old Kodak 5mp that is often more sharp). The good...amazing motion stabilization. 'Able to take photos in almost any light condition without the flash!! I also have some good photos from moving vehicles. Very compact and no protruding lens or lens motor. Quick startup. HD movie is ok also. Acceptable battery life. FYI. There are assorted complaints about the Canons also. I have now read enough not to expect perfect photos from ANY point and shoot, but like you, I hate to drag around that Nikon. (You might try one of the new cameras with a bit larger sensor, like 4 3rds).
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I took some sample pics in the house at night with just lights on. They looked OK without the flash. I find with indoor pics I usually don't like the flash because it seems to wash out the photo.
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The G5 does surprisingly well in low light! I am a bit amazed at the pictures I can take with street lights as the only illumination. There is sensor noise; somewhat more than with my Nikon D600, about the same as my Nikon D7000. Noise elimination post-processing cleans it up fairly nicely. On the other hand, consider that most Micro 4/3 lenses are fairly slow. So unless you get one of the fast lenses, you'll be using the "low-light" capabilities more than you would if you had a camera with an fast lens. The lens based anti-shake system works OK, but it's not as effective as some costlier systems, so a tripod is a must for "available dark" shooting.
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Did you end up buying this camera? My D7100 did horrible in low lighting. I got "Banding". My D7000 did much better.
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Guys, Fuji repairs all SAB affected cameras even after the warranty expired. I got that in writing from Fuji support and am not worried at all. They know they will lose customers if they don't fix this quality related issue. I will keep my x100 and don't upgrade. The s is tempting but I rather wait for a new Xpro-2 with all the nice new features ;)
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This is actually the only thing that disappoints me with my Canon (IXY 700/SD 500). It's my first Canon and I think it's a great machine. However, the Red-Eye Reduction is almost worthless, IMO. That's part of the reason I was looking at the extra flash on this page- thought that it might help out in some of the low-light situations where the Red-Eye performs worst. At least the barely functional Red-Eye is better than the Nikon S5 that I tried out. The Nikon's Red-Eye caused white splotches in my pictures. I'll take underperforming on Red-Eye over white splotches anyday.
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Hi there Angela I recently bought this camera after doing a lot of research. One of the only things that people would sometimes say was bad about the camera was that under certain conditions, the pictures came out in a condition like the one you described. There are a few things that you can do to help get rid of this "noise": 1. Choose a lower ISO setting. This setting changes the sensitivity to the light. You cannot change this value in the "Simple" mode, but in PASM and scene you can. The lower the ISO level, the more likely you might need to use flash, so open the flash and turn it to Auto (the default setting) when you use a lower ISO in poor to moderate lighting. 2. Change the internal Noise Reduction to High. You can access this setting in the PASM or Scene modes only as well. Changing this may make the picture a little less detailed, but probably only noticeable in something bigger than a 4 x 6. Access this setting by hitting the "Set" button, and then go down the menu to the third page, to a setting called Pict. Adj. and hit the right arrow. Noise reduction is the last choice. 3. If at all possible, take photos in good lighting. This will limit the use for internal brightening and adjusting, which will keep the natural colors and less noise in the picture. Hope this helps!
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Sorry, this post was really old! But in case you tracked it, how do you like the S200exr? I have the HS10 but am wondering if the latter would have been a better choice for sharper pictures.