Sorry, I'm a bit puzzled. What's the difference between -4.0 and -4? I'm from China and 400 degrees of myopia. Should I choose -4.0 or -4 or 4?
82129
I think -4.0 and -4 are the same. If you are near-sighted, you should choose negative.
2151079
3-9 and 4-12 refer to magnification rate.You have ability zoom in more with later scope.
8516
Well, after considering all my fellow photographers' advice, on whether or not to switch to MK IV from 7D, I "took the plunge" and purchased three L lenses: 16-35mm f/2.8, 24-105mm f/4.0, and 70-200mm f/4.0. It is still too early to tell, but from my initial impressions shooting during the snow storm in NYC, I am very happy with all the L lenses, even though I had to sell most of my old lenses to get them. Just looking at the LCD screen after each shot, I can readily see the difference in sharpness and color. I am waiting to get a 20"x24" print and see if all the sages' advice I found here paid off.Thanks to all of you who shared your experiences with me. Well, after considering all my fellow photographers' advice, on whether or not to switch to MK IV from 7D, I "took the plunge" and purchased three L lenses: 16-35mm f/2.8, 24-105mm f/4.0, and 70-200mm f/4.0. It is still too early to tell, but from my initial impressions shooting during the snow storm in NYC, I am very happy with all the L lenses, even though I had to sell most of my old lenses to get them. Just looking at the LCD screen after each shot, I can readily see the difference in sharpness and color. I am waiting to get a 20"x24" print and see if all the sages'... » Read More Well, after considering all my fellow photographers' advice, on whether or not to switch to MK IV from 7D, I "took the plunge" and purchased three L lenses: 16-35mm f/2.8, 24-105mm f/4.0, and 70-200mm f/4.0. It is still too early to tell, but from my initial impressions shooting during the snow storm in NYC, I am very happy with all the L lenses, even though I had to sell most of my old lenses to get them. Just looking at the LCD screen after each shot, I can readily see the difference in sharpness and color. I am waiting to get a 20"x24" print and see if all the sages' advice I found here paid off.Thanks to all of you who shared your experiences with me. « Show Less
40139
That's the method we used when buying my daughter's goggles. She ended up with -3.625 (R) and -4.25 (L) so we split the difference with a -4 prescription. She says they work well enough for her, and she has to be read a white board to get her workout during swim practice.
960178
I'm having difficulty recalling as I use mine only at 0 deg. --- but it seems as if the choices were indeed only 0 and 90. EDIT: based upon consensus, I'm guessing that my previous comment is not correct!
1850441
I used 28-135 for more than 8 years and was happy with it. Recently, I purchased 24-105 and I was very surprised. AF is fast, image is clear, IS is working very good. 24-105 is excellent lens and much better than 28-135.
1497574
Hi Sam, I owned the 58mm set of these filters and was not happy with them. They are listed as "Japan Optics" but are actually made in China. The warming filter is plastic, not glass. The CP has a minimal polarizing effect at best. And, from what I can tell compared to my Hoya filters, these are definitely not coated optics. I sent mine back yesterday. YMMV. Cheers, SB
1192317
I really like the 18-140. I also have the 55-300. At the time I was researching to purchase a new lens the 18-140 appeared to be the better choice. I went to the Nikon site and did a comparison between the 18-140, 18-200, and 18-300. The 18-140 was new, with the newer technology, lighter, and cheaper. For me, 18-140 focus quickly and it has the range I use most. I usually keep the 55-300 with me, so I'm covered in most situations.
21264
Honestly there isn't a big deal between -3.50 and -3.00 and you can get either one and you will see grate. But if you are still not satisfied go for 2 pairs of one -3.00 and -3.50 and just switch lenses and this way you have to pairs with perfect match
65715
I ordered the mask for my girlfriend who is near-sighted. She gave me a copy of her prescription. Under the "Dist" part of her prescription, sphere is -8.5 which is the number I used when I placed my mask order. I am assuming "DV" is distance, and "NV" is near. If so, I believe you would enter the "DV" number. The mask worked great for my girlfriend. She said she could see better out of the mask than her glasses. Hope that helps, Brian H.
2041779
There is at least one good comparison of the two lenses on youtube. Check out the videos and determine for yourself which lens fits your needs better. The f/1.4 is my first non-L lens; the add'l cost and weight made the f/1.2 less of a good fit for me.
1212726
Yes, that is miss leading. Not sure which is more accurate. I would lean toward the 30 degree figure. More fog than driving, but fog lights that project better than traditional q/h type.
1755638
Would really like to help with your question but, unfortunately, I didn't save the box or the instruction sheet. I can tell you however that these binoc's are great. I've used them on trips to Alaska and to China. I find very little "shake" or distortion at higher magnification compared with others that I looked at from the "brick and mortar" stores. If you purchase them I hope you are as satisfied with the product as I am.
1939951
f 1.4. You can take photos in lower light than the 1.8. Just an FYI, if I had to do it again, I would have bought a 35 mm 1.4 instead of the 50 mm.
678606
Well, the f/2.8 is a much newer lens and is superior to the f/4 in many performance aspects (AF speed, accuracy, etc). Don't get me wrong, though. The f/4 is still a solid performer. Sometimes, the f/4 captures better photos in the f/4-f/5.6 range than the f/2.8 does in that range.Now, since you stated that weight is a concern for you, I'd point out that the f/2.8 is a whole two times heavier than the f/4. The f/4 is also half the price of the f/2.8.If you shoot in low-light or indoor, then the f/2.8 is for you. If you shoot outdoor and have plenty of light, then the f/4 is just as good. Well, the f/2.8 is a much newer lens and is superior to the f/4 in many performance aspects (AF speed, accuracy, etc). Don't get me wrong, though. The f/4 is still a solid performer. Sometimes, the f/4 captures better photos in the f/4-f/5.6 range than the f/2.8 does in that range.Now, since you stated that weight is a concern for you, I'd point out that the f/2.8 is a whole two times heavier than the f/4. The f/4 is also half the price of the f/2.8.If you shoot in low-light or indoor, then the f/2.8 is for you. If you shoot outdoor and have plenty of light, then the f/4 is just... » Read More Well, the f/2.8 is a much newer lens and is superior to the f/4 in many performance aspects (AF speed, accuracy, etc). Don't get me wrong, though. The f/4 is still a solid performer. Sometimes, the f/4 captures better photos in the f/4-f/5.6 range than the f/2.8 does in that range.Now, since you stated that weight is a concern for you, I'd point out that the f/2.8 is a whole two times heavier than the f/4. The f/4 is also half the price of the f/2.8.If you shoot in low-light or indoor, then the f/2.8 is for you. If you shoot outdoor and have plenty of light, then the f/4 is just as good. « Show Less
1140833
4.04 is from a specific vendor that I assume has worked something out with Amazon to be the default vendor for these glasses. If you look a little lower down you'll see where it says "New at $1.69" click on that link and other distributors will come up at a lot lower price. BTW if you want to buy some click on Aretex's link and order from me and I'll throw in a free pair of Radians Crossfire safety/sun glasses.
1177288
Depends on what your prescription is. The camera has a built in -3.0 to +1.0 diopter adjustment. You want to buy the one that will allow you to match your prescription. E.g. If you wear +2 prescription, get the +2 and dial it down by 1. You would only need the - if you have to go further than the -3 that is built in. However, I have found that I do not use the diopter. When I have my glasses off, the images on the LCD are blurry. So I shoot with my glasses or contacts, so I can still view the images on the LCD. Hope this helps you decide. Chris