Would this tool work well for applying routered mull moulding that would be mitered, to cabinet doors? The width of the parts to be clamped is 1/2 in
250870
Yes Indeed!. As long as there are several angles on the same plane it will work. The clamping faces on each Angle-Plate (clamp-clip) are hinged so they auto adjust to the angles at each corner. The faces of the clamping surfaces are 3 cm in height so for thinner items, - e.g. 1cm - make sure the Angle-plates are centered. I have had great success elevating the clamped item about 1~2cm so the bottom of the angle plates rest on the bench. In cases where I have a very narrow flat face relataive to the overall thicknes (as with when I do moulding) I use a dowl with a one side planed flat. The curved portion rests aganst the curved section of the moulding, giving me a thicker flat profile to clamp against. I have also used a scrap piece of identical moulding flipped upside down and adjusted for width to give me more clamping surface. I would suggest you buy an extra package of angle plates. (I believe the clamp only comes with Four) They come apart - they are supposed to, its quite useful - and I have broken one (my fault, not Bessy's) Also, if you ever do anything with more than four corners you wil need them. (I have used 12 at a time on one clamp) In short, these are great clamps, I have 7 of them, and they work wonderfully, although you may have to get mildly creative when dealing with 'odd' faces to clamp against. And remember: DONT OVERTIGHTEN!
250871
I honestly don't know but I'm not sure I understand your question fully either. This clamp works on anything around the perimeter of any shape that relies on the miters of the cut pieces to square itself. The angle clamps are merely devices to put pressure on the joints for to make a good glue joint and they will conform to any angle. The more corners the piece has the more of these angle clamps you need.
1920648
Yes it will. It's designedto work with most "standard thickness" door slabs.
947197
The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material... » Read More The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. « Show Less
484574
Sorry, can't help you on a Dewalt table saw as I'm not sure what type channel it has for the miter gauge. The Incra V120 is a nice gauge so if you can determine the fit it will please you, I'm sure.
666600
Remember this is a plunge base for a trim router --- plunging too deeply will result in a rough cut as well as potential motor bearing problems -- I have "hogged out" material as deep as 1/2 inch in very hard white oak-- this is a great tool-- love it----
31634
I used it in a miter saw and it worked great on my pavers. I guess it would work the same as long as it fit
2248682
Depends on what type of projects you are trying to accomplish. I have been a little disappointed in my kreg jig honestly. It is good for joining 1x dimensional lumber but not good in joining 1x to 2x or 2x to 2x. Id imagine if you went smaller than 1x, it would provide very little strength to joints. The master system gives you a few bells and whistles like the clamp but you're fine saving a few bucks and going with another if you wanted.
429354
I am using it on the smallest Skil drill press, but it is really too big to fit well. It should work nicely on anything larger, however.
748876
Hey there, I can't understand why you would even think of this product for use with a router table. What are you trying to do? This is basically a quick use tool for cross cutting lumber with a circular saw or maybe with a jig saw.
2278921
Yes I have used it for various base board moulding and crown moulding miter assembly and it has performed well in these applications.
244898
Probably. If it has a standard 1/2" arbor it should be fine. It worked on my 12" Bosch sliding miter saw.To be sure you can always contact the manufacturer.
1653665
I can agree with Smokey DeBear that with a little extra marking, the cabinet door template will work just fine. The "slider" hole makes it possible for the 4.25 spacing on your hardware to be set perfectly. This is a very good set of templates.
242923
I'm afraid not, Paula. And I can't imagine it being worth your time to fabricate some larger surface around that Dremel table (issues of flatness not to mention the crappy fence mechanism). Bench-top router tables like the Bosch don't take up much space, if that's your concern. If you're working on a tight budget, save the money you'd spend for the Dremel table and put it towards a router and router table.
2257871
I used this tool to undercut the door frame and cut molding for around the door frame. It worked great! Wishing you success.
1961722
If I'm not mistaken most all miter gauge slots are a standard depth and width, except the older Sears craftsman saws, so in that regard the miter gauge that comes with this saw would be compatible.
529330
It would seem to me that this will work fine. I used this successfully on an exterior stucco wall to mount a mail box. They key is to use a 1/2 inch drill...the round type. This way the drill bit edge will not get caught in the expanded metal lathing.
4148
i would never advise it. First off the Dremel can not receive a 1/2 inch router bit and anything less would cause extreme vibration due to a lack of rpm's. Hand held routers need a platform to rest on top of the piece you are working so you can plunge into the wood.