What is the difference between Sigma EM-140 DG Macro Ring Flash for Canon and Sigma EM-140 DG Macro Ring Flash for Nikon,
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The flash systems are technically identical but each system will only work with automatic settings with the electronics of the specified camera brands -- TTL. ETTL metering is camera brand dependent so a sigma ring flash made for a canon camera will not operate with the TTL settings on a Nikon Camera and the converse is also true -- This is a great ring flash but you must buy for the designated camera system to be able to take advantage of the automatic electronic systems. RS
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The nikon version supports i-TTL/D-TTL (where metering is done through the camera system), while the canon version supports E-TTL (Evaluative through the Lens exposure) II. Copy and paste the following link for a better explanation: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/. It's probably a proprietary software difference in the exposure calculations, but from what I understand the ringlights are otherwise identical, albeit probably not interchangeable.
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An external flash must "communicate" with the camera to which it is attached to fire properly. One of these is configured to operate with certain Canon cameras, and the other is configured to operate with certain Nikon cameras.
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The EOS 70 D package that I bought from Amazon which is sold by Cameta Camera as shown came with the 18-135 mm IS STM and 55-200 mm IS STM. The 18-135mm IS STM in question has a macro distance of 1.3 ft or 39 mm vs the 55-135 mm IS which has a macro distance of 1.5 ft or 45 mm. You can check this out on the Canon web site yourself and confirm what I'm saying. Really nice camera and package from Amazon/Cameta Camera
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hi lou, this will depend on which mount your sigma has. this fotodiox is for nikon mount lenses on canon eos cameras. check your sigma and buy accordingly. all lenses with a greater backfocus as canon will have an adapter available. should your lens not have a aperture ring, be careful to buy an adapter with aperture control, pd
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Possibly I use the flash ring on various Macro subjects frogs butterfly's but u have to be close Am using 60 mm macro and 70- 180 macro it works well you will need stutter speed of 1 250 sec at least Hope it can work for u Regards Howard
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If it doesn't specify canon mount it's probably a sigma mount. That's what happened to me. Then when I exchsnged it they didn't have the nikon mount at the same price. Had to reorder from another store.
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Philip,I am sorry that I cannot offer much insight to this question. I use a D700 model Nikon and the Sigma 70mm macro lens has worked flawlessly so far with this camera. I have no experiencewhatsoever with the D7100, however. Best of luck to you,Denis Thompson
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Wilmer M.You have to buy the one for the Canon....the canon lens have a different configuration than the Nikon....So you have to buy the one specific for your model of camera.I found you one on Amazon. Here is the link: Tamron Auto Focus 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Macro Zoom Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras (Model A14E)
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No, not this model. The "EF" means that it's for Canon EOS cameras; Sigma probably makes a version of this that's for Nikon cameras.
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Hi, the Fotodiox macro extension is just a series of tubes that adjust the length of the lens. It's compatible with the attachment system Canon cameras use, as well as most other cameras (except Nikons). It works perfectly as advertised :)
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The II is the newest version. The Canon version is roughly identical in the DX & DX II, however the Nikon version has added functionality from the DX to the DX II, I believe by making auto focusing is now functional on all Nikon Cameras
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For macro only, this is effectively an extension tube. Canon fd to eos must have a glass element.
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Sigma makes different version of the flash for different camera brands and do have one for Canon. It should be specified in the information of the flash for Canon.
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Sigma works with canon and Nikon but that's how you order the right one. I'm canon shooter and your question is for Nikon shooters. Sorry about not being more specific. Mm
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The Macro is better optically and sharper at f2.8. The bokeh might be softer at 2.4 but at a cost of sharpness especially at the corners. The macro 2.8 has quickshift and is metal but larger and heavier and of course much more expensive with the huge added versatility of macro. If you want a macro at this short length and a sharp lens this is the ideal all in one solution. Otherwise, there are longer lengths for macro that are to many more useful and faster as sharp and w/ better bokeh 35mm lenses such as the Sigma 35 DG HSM 1.4. I don't get it only because I have a Tamron 90mm macro AND the sigma 35 for the best of both worlds at twice the cost though =/ The Macro is better optically and sharper at f2.8. The bokeh might be softer at 2.4 but at a cost of sharpness especially at the corners. The macro 2.8 has quickshift and is metal but larger and heavier and of course much more expensive with the huge added versatility of macro. If you want a macro at this short length and a sharp lens this is the ideal all in one solution. Otherwise, there are longer lengths for macro that are to many more useful and faster as sharp and w/ better bokeh 35mm lenses such as the Sigma 35 DG HSM 1.4. I don't get it only because I have a Tamron 90mm macro AND... » Read More The Macro is better optically and sharper at f2.8. The bokeh might be softer at 2.4 but at a cost of sharpness especially at the corners. The macro 2.8 has quickshift and is metal but larger and heavier and of course much more expensive with the huge added versatility of macro. If you want a macro at this short length and a sharp lens this is the ideal all in one solution. Otherwise, there are longer lengths for macro that are to many more useful and faster as sharp and w/ better bokeh 35mm lenses such as the Sigma 35 DG HSM 1.4. I don't get it only because I have a Tamron 90mm macro AND the sigma 35 for the best of both worlds at twice the cost though =/ « Show Less
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There are two primary differences. First, the Kenko tubes are fully automatic, that is, using them (if compatible with your camera model) will preserve the automatic features of your camera, including the metering. The tubes have the conducting pins that line up between your lens and the camera body and communicate the exposure to your meter. My opinion is if you only do the once in a blue moon macro, the less expensive tubes might suffice. If you are either sophisticated at manually calculating exposure that should not be a problem, or just take a broad series of exposures and some will probably be right or salvageable in Lightroom or other post processing. However this is somewhat tedious, if not laborious, and if you intend to take macros on a regular basis, the auto tubes will be worth it. The other difference is manufacturing quality. Tubes that are not well manufactured are either too lose, allowing slop in the set up or too tight, causing nightmares in removing a tube that seems stuck to your precious camera or lens. The Kenko works great on my D7100, and before that on my D7000 and my D80. Snug fit, but not too tight. Also the "release pin" can be problematic in cheap tubes. This Australian guy, Matt Granger or something like that, has a nice You Tube video demonstrating these tubes. That should be easy to find searching You Tube I spent the extra dollars on Kenko and have not been sorry. If you really want to do macros on the cheap, just buy a reversing ring, screw your lens in backwards(no joke!)using the filter threads and you have a pretty good set up, but not nearly as flexible as with the tubes. Also a shorter prime lens is probably a better choice for the reversing ring approach. Good luck!
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Generally a macro ring flash fits on a particular lens rather than a particular camera, and attaches to the lens by means of an adapter that screws into the filter ring on the lens and the ring flash unit slides over the adapter. Most macro ring flash units come with multiple sizes of screw in adapters. This camera does have a hot shoe for those macro ring flash units that have a battery pack that slides into the hot shoe.
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This ring has male threads on both sides. It enables you to put two lenses together for macro-photography. Normally you would use a small prime lens mounted in reverse in front of a longer lens, such as a 50mm lens in front with a perhaps 100mm lens(or a zoom) mounted on the camera in the normal way. Your brand of camera is irrelevant as the ring screws into the lens and is not attached directly to the camera. You are then using the prime lens mounted in reverse as a substitute for a closeup filter. Generally people use this setup to get magnifications higher than 1:1. You can use this ring in conjunction with a step-up ring if necessary to adjust to your particular pair of lenses. This ring has male threads on both sides. It enables you to put two lenses together for macro-photography. Normally you would use a small prime lens mounted in reverse in front of a longer lens, such as a 50mm lens in front with a perhaps 100mm lens(or a zoom) mounted on the camera in the normal way. Your brand of camera is irrelevant as the ring screws into the lens and is not attached directly to the camera. You are then using the prime lens mounted in reverse as a substitute for a closeup filter. Generally people use this setup to get magnifications higher than 1:1. You can use this ring... » Read More This ring has male threads on both sides. It enables you to put two lenses together for macro-photography. Normally you would use a small prime lens mounted in reverse in front of a longer lens, such as a 50mm lens in front with a perhaps 100mm lens(or a zoom) mounted on the camera in the normal way. Your brand of camera is irrelevant as the ring screws into the lens and is not attached directly to the camera. You are then using the prime lens mounted in reverse as a substitute for a closeup filter. Generally people use this setup to get magnifications higher than 1:1. You can use this ring in conjunction with a step-up ring if necessary to adjust to your particular pair of lenses. « Show Less