If my joists are 24" apart, does that mean the metal grids will overhang the support bars? At 45" by 45", it won't span to 48" to hit another joist
256096
Mine was the same way. The arms that hold the platform up are fairly flexible. A few inches of stretch (1 to 1.5 inches each way) is not bad at all. You can also work with the joins in the arms to see if you can position one of them with a tilt. I didn't need to. My Hyloft has been up for nearly 6 months and I am planning to install another one shortly.
256097
That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right angle brackets and bolts/screws to attach the shelves to the wall. That made the whole thing incredibly solid (they will sway a bit otherwise). That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right... » Read More That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right angle brackets and bolts/screws to attach the shelves to the wall. That made the whole thing incredibly solid (they will sway a bit otherwise). « Show Less
256098
Yes. This could work depending on the weight you put on the edges of the racks. The supports 24" apart would serve to hold a great amount of weight over the center of the racks. You could always go into attic space (if available) and place a support (2x4 or equivalent to joist) between the joists to which you could bolt the metal supports.
1177678
I'd have to measure mine collapsed ... but I am pretty sure once all squished back together it is a little longer than 24" with the couplers included in the measurement.
661817
That is the correct number of rails. Two long ones 76" on each edge, three 72" rails across connecting the two 76" rails. And one rail the runs down the middle connecting the three cross members. if it's too short to do that, it doesn't belong. Should be obvious once you lay out the pieces.
1606200
You have several issues here. First, consider what is holding up the 2x4. I wouldn't put a point load of 400 lbs in the middle of a span of say, 8ft. I have mine supported by a 2x8. The bolt hole spacing on the hoist is about 3 1/2 inches, so the 2x8 is wide enough to cover the holes. I bought some longer bolts (2 1/2 i think), bored the hole pattern of the hoist through the 2x8, and bolted it without using the steel brackets and short bolts that came with the hoist. If you already have a 2x4 in place, you could do the short span of 2x8 like i did and then attach the 2x8 to the 2x4. That would accommodate the bolt pattern and add stiffness. You have several issues here. First, consider what is holding up the 2x4. I wouldn't put a point load of 400 lbs in the middle of a span of say, 8ft. I have mine supported by a 2x8. The bolt hole spacing on the hoist is about 3 1/2 inches, so the 2x8 is wide enough to cover the holes. I bought some longer bolts (2 1/2 i think), bored the hole pattern of the hoist through the 2x8, and bolted it without using the steel brackets and short bolts that came with the hoist. If you already have a 2x4 in place, you could do the short span of 2x8 like i did and then attach the 2x8 to the 2x4. That... » Read More You have several issues here. First, consider what is holding up the 2x4. I wouldn't put a point load of 400 lbs in the middle of a span of say, 8ft. I have mine supported by a 2x8. The bolt hole spacing on the hoist is about 3 1/2 inches, so the 2x8 is wide enough to cover the holes. I bought some longer bolts (2 1/2 i think), bored the hole pattern of the hoist through the 2x8, and bolted it without using the steel brackets and short bolts that came with the hoist. If you already have a 2x4 in place, you could do the short span of 2x8 like i did and then attach the 2x8 to the 2x4. That would accommodate the bolt pattern and add stiffness. « Show Less
110408
Photos sent to your email address. let me know if you have more questions. Remember, I am 'just' an end user / consumer-buyer, not the manufacturer. How I hooked mine up may be different than how you have to do it based on your joist configurements and all that.
1342707
That's how I have mine set up, I only screwed the legs in and have 2 48" beams separate so I can store it away. Sturdy enough to use a circular saw on top.
1049010
No ma'am. I accidentally made the same mistake. I had to fabricate some steel flat 4" bars to bolt it in the middle. They aren't long enough.
832832
The rack measures exactly 48" wide, to the outside of where the bar rests. If your bar is 48" between, it should fit perfectly & still be able to add weights.
76853
I don't think that will work. Do you see the U-shaped, blue metal bar on the left and right? They are one piece and would not stack well. You could to it side-by-side or front to back.The top white metal grid is one piece, the 4 sides are each one piece, so you have 5 piece in total.
127003
If the studs are too far apart, you could always lay down a base board that matches up to the studs, then mount the bar on top of that. I did this with my bar and it works like a charm. As for your question, The bar is not adjustable width-wise so your studs may not match up.
1004107
The top bar is in four pieces that connect. It is not telescoping, so you couldn't make it less wide if you wanted to. In case I'm wrong, I would wait and listen to another reply before you make any judgements on mine.
166511
I'll get back to you tomorrow morning.. I use a 6' bar and it makes it with some room to spare so my first impression would be no. I'll give you a more precise answer tomorrow when I get home.
1871361
Depends on where your beams you are going to use are. You need to span them. Used a piece of unistrut on mine rather than a bar.
4333
Unfortunately no. The legs are approx 46" apart. My TV stand is 48" and the legs come to about an inch on both sides.
567418
I had sagging 24" screens, until I adjusted the preset tightness of the joints. You should be able to adjust the joints, using the included hex key, so that there is no sagging.....
183715
Ronald, the way that the shelves are designed and segmented makes height adjustment impracticable. Each vertical section is composed of two 36" lengths of L steel and they are designed to fit one another flush at the end of each joint segment. There is no provision or configuration for overlapping. I can't think of any way to alter that design to shorten without compromising the fit or load strength of the unit. Hope this heps.
1946823
The thing is 4 feet wide so 24 inch studs should work fine. I have standard studs and it fit fine.