I am not getting any AC power from either the heating or cooling relay side of this controller. I first thought this to be defective but upon receiving the replacement unit I am having the same problem. I have tried both polarity possibilities on the...
243868
Watch this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-iwFLykxs Read these discussion threads - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/ and http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/ Hope this helps.
1193010
Not sure...I am not an AC guy...I just connected the wires and turned it on...If if helps, one of our units is a gas pack. Heat and AC in one unit. Works fine..
1350738
First, make sure you have installed the ozone plates correctly - I beleve there is an interlock there to prevent the operation if the plates are not aligned correctly. Check to make sure the rear switch is on, and the fan is also on. Also check your outlet and the cord to the unit. If it still does not power up, return it for a replacement. I had the same problem - the rear switch was bad, and they replaced the unit for me.
1495226
You might try plugging another appliance into that outlet, such as an iron, and see if the circuit still blows. If it doesn't, my guess is you have a faulty steamer. Try a Swiffer, and change the pad often!
124994
It sounds like the controller is internally short-circuited. It cannot be repaired. It must be replaced.
1210060
This controller only has one SSR output. It has both heating and cooling modes but you'd need to rewire your setup to switch between them.
2263700
yea. it's probably defective. it works good on my end. no issues, no freezing. The connection might have a failure or switch the power cord. That might have the failure. Test it out.
66121
All I can tell you is that as soon as I filled it and turned it on the rocker switch worked immediately and so did the keep it warm switch. It sounds as though you got a defective unit.
24817
My works fine but I just had to replace my ground fault outlet.Not sure if it blew from the tank heater,fence charger on age.Check the outlet.If not that perhaps you received defective ones
731235
it sounds as if something tripped the reset button on the plug end of the power cord. See page 3 of the manual. page 3 also says to be sure the AC sits upright for an hour before running it. If it had been stored on its side, put into the wall and immediately turned on this could cause a temporary overload that would trip that switch. If the switch seems ok, check house fuses going to that line. read page 12 and if nothing there helps try calling the manufacturer.
1137691
I'm using my heater right now and I'm plugged into a ground fault plug...no grounding pole involved. It's working just fine. Hope this helps!
1520028
I had similar problem when i first used it. I called them and they sent me a new power circuit board. it took an hour to install the new one. that unit is NOT a good at all. it is not worth the money.
1193369
I had the same issue...just cut the plug end off and solder splice to the fan controller with heat shrink over it afterwards.
1356810
My system shut off after a couple months of being installed as well (240v). I removed canister and electrodes appeared to have a lot of buildup, so I made a little brass brush on a handle that I could get inside and clean the elements. after doing this several times and rinsing (water came out rust colour), I replaced and it is working fine. Will wait and see how long this one lasts. I clamped it and was only pulling about 2-3 amps initially, but after a couple days it is now up to 10-11 amps per leg.
1578276
My controller hasn't lost power since its been installed so I'm not shore but troubleshooting notes can be found at the hydrawise website http://hydrawise.com/support
1174231
The actual cooling unit is 12V, but the controller board is 110V, so it uses a plug. Although it doesn't cool well. And after a number of repairs and modifications to try to get this thing to work without leaking, I eventually threw this thing in the garbage.
166033
OK, let's find the source of the problem: First, unplug the X-Box from the CONTROL OUTLET. Then substitute a simple load, such as a table lamp with a standard 40-100 watt incandescant light bulb. Turn the light on and off and see if that switches the slave outlets (there is a slight time delay - that is normal). If that works, then the SmartStrip is OK, otherwise, it is defective. X-Boxes, Playstations, etc. draw current even when they're "off", and that amount of "quiescent current" may be too high for the current sensing circuit in the SmartStrip. All is not lost - yet. Swap the table lamp back to the X-Box, and try turning the small sensitivity adjustment on the edge of the power strip. It sets the point at which the current sensor inside the unit triggers the ON/OFF function for the slave outlets. If it doesn't work in the clockwise direction, then turn it the other direction. If that still doesn't work, your X-Box is still drawing too much current from the AC line - a common issue with game boxes. It's not a defect, just the poor energy design of some game boxes. As a last resort (if the sensitivity adjustment didn't work), you could use an in-line AC switch between the Control Outlet and the X-Box. It kind of defeats the purpose of using the SmartStrip, but it's still better than nothing at all.