Can this product be installed between floor joists under the sub floor and tile?
243011
The heat won't radiate through the subfloor AND tile. It needs to be on top of the subfloor.
243012
Would not be practical to do this wouldn't give out enough heat to go through the wood floor and the tile
243013
I had the same idea, try to avoid pulling up tile. I put it between 16" joists, thru 3/4" ply, thru 1/4" cement board, thru tile. It really is not meant to be used this way. It got a hot spot and opened after a few months. I sandwiched it in sheet aluminum for safety, which worked OK. The heat was not even and took a long time to heat up. Not anything like putting it between tile and backer which works great.
1613363
I wouldn't think so. It's a tension bar that needs a solid beam to "push" against. I have it wedged between the floor and a support beam. Good luck!
25670
There is quite a gap between the floor and the bed so I should think you can
1159199
John, I believe it can be installed under the counter but you may have to provide some ventilation at the rear of the unit.Graham
1833118
This product is used under tile in conjunction with a mortar bed application. It is not for the tile to be directly bonded to.
394572
No. I would determine where the gap is. If on the floor I would fill with cement and try to level. You could try putting shims under the al
1659509
since we actually install thermosoft by applying self-leveling cement prior to installing tile over thinset, it should be no problem. However, we staple the wires to keep the profile at a minimum, getting the wire to lay flat may be awkward, but doable
1166858
Wooden sub-floor? Shouldn't have a problem. The device has a low profile, however, you may need to trim the bottom of the door.
1817974
This probably will not work as you need more than 10" under the desk to install the hardware.
1957889
Yes. It can be used. It is a solid product for the price. However, if you are installing below grade over concrete. I personally would opt for a heavier barrier. It is rather thin. It worked beautifully in my situation and the price was excellent. But my install was over subfloor and above grade. Anytime you install below grade you have higher moisture. That is why I would recommend a heavier barrier. It will cost more. But you will be glad you went with it.
1294555
Yes it can. My installation is not straight up and down, it was a bit diagonal but it worked.
2145921
Not in the current configuration. There are better options for a floor mount unit.
1359101
I checked with my son who installed our unit and he said he remembers thinking it could be installed from below if necessary. However, we were able to access it through the attic. So while I cannot say definitely, there is a good possibility that you would be able to install it from below.
1355473
I supposed you COULD. Your floor joists would have to be on 16" center for the safe to fit properly. Also you have to obviously cut through the sub flooring. The only problem I see would be getting the door to open if it's mounted in the floor. When it's mounted in the wall vertically and you enter the code, the door springs open by itself. If it was mounted in the floor, I don't know if the door would spring open because it's heavy gauge steel and gravity would be pulling it down. I'm just speculating, but you'd probably have to attach a strap or handle to the door in order to lift it open after the code is keyed in. In summary, I wouldn't recommend it. Hope that helps. I supposed you COULD. Your floor joists would have to be on 16" center for the safe to fit properly. Also you have to obviously cut through the sub flooring. The only problem I see would be getting the door to open if it's mounted in the floor. When it's mounted in the wall vertically and you enter the code, the door springs open by itself. If it was mounted in the floor, I don't know if the door would spring open because it's heavy gauge steel and gravity would be pulling it down. I'm just speculating, but you'd probably have to attach a strap or handle to the door in order to lift it... » Read More I supposed you COULD. Your floor joists would have to be on 16" center for the safe to fit properly. Also you have to obviously cut through the sub flooring. The only problem I see would be getting the door to open if it's mounted in the floor. When it's mounted in the wall vertically and you enter the code, the door springs open by itself. If it was mounted in the floor, I don't know if the door would spring open because it's heavy gauge steel and gravity would be pulling it down. I'm just speculating, but you'd probably have to attach a strap or handle to the door in order to lift it open after the code is keyed in. In summary, I wouldn't recommend it. Hope that helps. « Show Less
774730
Yes you can. Install the base 1st, then install cement board down to the base and then tile the walls down to the base.
1120108
No. It's too heavy....however, if you were creative , you could secure something above the tiles and have small eyebolts through the tiles into the support and hang the unit
1007719
The bar is pretty much right under the joist. If you used the grips instead of the bar you might be able to depending on where its mounted. Mine is mounted in the garage ceiling joist so I have extra room above the joist. If it's mounted in the basement on a floor joist I don't thing you would be able to do it. Also, unless you're using perfect form, you may have issues as well. I think once a person got fatigued and their form starts to waiver they may start going forward too much and face plant the joist.