I am getting 12volts at the control unit under the antenna in the trailer. I am not getting 12volts at the top of the antenna at the circuit board.
227752
If you are talking about a powered antenna, or a satellite and have a splitter in the coax your using, that could be the answer. The 12v is needed to make this work and it won't go through the splitter.
1670891
Mine read just at 12V when received so I didn't charge any more before installing in alarm system. It is working fine.
1136289
What is your question? What type of AC unit do you have, i.e., RV roof unit, portable unit, floor unit, wall unit, commercial roof unit? Every capacitor is different based on it schematic drawing located inside cover plate. I will assume you have a RV 13,500 BTU AC unit. If so, take the cover off the air conditioner unit of your travel trailer. Open the access panel. Look at the schematic drawing on the access panel or ac cover. The brown wire is for the fan of the ac unit, do not install to the brown wire. The hard start capacitor black wire that has extra connector at the end is connected to red line and the other black wire is connected to the yellow wire of the ac unit. The instructions that came with the hard start capacitor should show which black line with the extra connector connects to the red line and the other goes to the yellow line.
817869
Luis, that is where I have mine. On the roof of my RV. The hole already existed for the previous antenna, but I had to enlarge it just a little. Comes with good instructions, all parts and a drilling template. It runs off 12volts.
1161898
at 75% i believe it was still at &gt; 12amps because it was tripping my 12 amp surge protector
1371801
You should ground it. There is a grounding kit available from the manufacturer, but you can do it yourself. Another option is moving the antenna down. Mine is only 7 feet off the ground and it works perfectly. You may not need to have it up so high. Also consider an inline coax surge protector.
1157878
Regardless of what vehicle it's in or if it's running packs in parallel or series I've always stopped at 3.6v/cell when the pack is at rest. You could possibly go lower and still be safe, however I noticed that my packs lasted a lot longer stopping at 3.6v/cell. Also I found these alarms to be rather quiet. Just a heads up. Enjoy �
1123837
A test you can make is to directly connect the panel to the battery, correct polarity important or you will fry things. If the voltage is 17 volts or under you are good to go. If it is still over 18 volts you will be over current and ruin the battery. You cannot have the controller set to 24 volts for your 12volt battery!
1822863
I have yet to use mine but I would assume that the Red gets connected to the positive side of your 12volt battery, and the black to the negative side(ground). The white wire gets connected to the device you want to control, it's the positive feed, if it matters. Make sure you connect the other side of the device you want to control to ground(negative side of battery). The blue wire? Don't worry about it, just don't remove it. It's a little stand alone antenna. You may want to tape it to the mounting surface to hold it straight. Just don't strip any of the blue coating or let the inside of the wire touch metal. I have yet to use mine but I would assume that the Red gets connected to the positive side of your 12volt battery, and the black to the negative side(ground). The white wire gets connected to the device you want to control, it's the positive feed, if it matters. Make sure you connect the other side of the device you want to control to ground(negative side of battery). The blue wire? Don't worry about it, just don't remove it. It's a little stand alone antenna. You may want to tape it to the mounting surface to hold it straight. Just don't strip any of the blue coating or let the inside of... » Read More I have yet to use mine but I would assume that the Red gets connected to the positive side of your 12volt battery, and the black to the negative side(ground). The white wire gets connected to the device you want to control, it's the positive feed, if it matters. Make sure you connect the other side of the device you want to control to ground(negative side of battery). The blue wire? Don't worry about it, just don't remove it. It's a little stand alone antenna. You may want to tape it to the mounting surface to hold it straight. Just don't strip any of the blue coating or let the inside of the wire touch metal. « Show Less
626535
If your referring to the booster, I mounted mine near the back of the TV and used a short coax cable from the booster to the TV, that's the only electrical connection I found. Like to others though this antenna works great and it doesn't look bad on the side of the house.
1581575
I purchaced two of the ten foot sVGA cables and gave one to my son. We have had no buzz or humm. I also bought a twenty-five foot cable, identical. Still testing. No problems so far. If you have a humm check the local environment, (get the furnace blower checked.), throw out the hairdrier you once loaned to Jimmy Carter. Have a technician clean your electronics and do a sweep looking for poorly grounded ANYTHING. ANTENNA and anything, wires and pipes installed in a hurry by a well meaning gent. Adjust audio output and inputs, then check all connections, cleaning off the pbj as needed. Try to buy shielded cables when you can. Try moving the whole operation to a different environment. Good Luck � I purchaced two of the ten foot sVGA cables and gave one to my son. We have had no buzz or humm. I also bought a twenty-five foot cable, identical. Still testing. No problems so far. If you have a humm check the local environment, (get the furnace blower checked.), throw out the hairdrier you once loaned to Jimmy Carter. Have a technician clean your electronics and do a sweep looking for poorly grounded ANYTHING. ANTENNA and anything, wires and pipes installed in a hurry by a well meaning gent. Adjust audio output and inputs, then check all connections, cleaning off the pbj as needed. Try... » Read More I purchaced two of the ten foot sVGA cables and gave one to my son. We have had no buzz or humm. I also bought a twenty-five foot cable, identical. Still testing. No problems so far. If you have a humm check the local environment, (get the furnace blower checked.), throw out the hairdrier you once loaned to Jimmy Carter. Have a technician clean your electronics and do a sweep looking for poorly grounded ANYTHING. ANTENNA and anything, wires and pipes installed in a hurry by a well meaning gent. Adjust audio output and inputs, then check all connections, cleaning off the pbj as needed. Try to buy shielded cables when you can. Try moving the whole operation to a different environment. Good Luck � « Show Less
1097566
You're welcom.Also, if it helps any. I put the converter on the trailer and wired it there, instead of on the tow vehicle. That way there is no change to the plug on the truck and I didn't have to add any additional connections between truck and trailer.
489884
The wire you are reading amps on Has to pass through the back of the at meter. I put my amp meter in my travel trailer And it works great
1650058
I suspect the voltage is fine .... Just have to check the configuration.... Lowes/ Menards have usually have both the welder and Rv cables to check
104245
I placed these in a trailer that is 12 Volt. I'm not sure how that translates to 24 volts or even if that works.
2275212
Man, no idea. Did you get a power surge or something like that recently? I keep mine (and all electronics like this) on a suppressor protected circuit. Not much help for you now, though. You have my sympathies.
1592660
Power isn't as big a problem as the voltage drop. By the end of the strip, you may only be getting 10v, for example. You should measure it.