Which preparation is more effective on pine bark beetles, liquid or granules? We got a 'bonus' in some small Fat Albert Spruce trees we bought.
1281030
I have had both recommended by arborists. Some like the granules, since they are easier to apply, some swear by the liquid.
1281031
I have used both and both seem to work equally well but I liked the convenience of no mixing so prefer the granules. Just water in or put out before heavy rain.
2104943
It's a matter of preference. I like the application process of Drione. It's a powder and can reach places liquids can't. Basically ...the powder sticks to insects when they walk through it. It ruptures (cuts) the exoskeleton of insects and they dehydrate rather quickly.
536908
Unfortunately, that I'm unsure of, but this is still a great product. However, the spray version lasts a lot longer and is probably safer for honeybees, as it absorbs quickly onto the surface and acts as a wonderful deterrent to ants. I spray it around the perimeter of my home, as well as the inside at the floor/wall seams & its safe around my 3-YO. Lasts for about 2-3 months on average. Also, if you go with the granules, don't forget to pour it on a day of good rain or the day before to ensure it gets absorbed and distributed properly. Good luck!
853235
I would recommend using a borate solution or Copper Green. Copper Green is available at Home Depot in spray can or quart liquid. After applying solution, put on a coat of a good paint primer. The directions on the Copper Green say to immerse for many hours but I just paint on a couple of coatings until the wood end grain no longer absorbs the liquid. Note borate is harder to get. I believe the borate solution has a relatively short shelf life and normally it is mixed from dry granules before use. Pest control companies tend to use the borate solution - It is effective for both dry rot and termites. But I believe that also applies to Copper Green. I would recommend using a borate solution or Copper Green. Copper Green is available at Home Depot in spray can or quart liquid. After applying solution, put on a coat of a good paint primer. The directions on the Copper Green say to immerse for many hours but I just paint on a couple of coatings until the wood end grain no longer absorbs the liquid. Note borate is harder to get. I believe the borate solution has a relatively short shelf life and normally it is mixed from dry granules before use. Pest control companies tend to use the borate solution - It is effective for both dry rot and... » Read More I would recommend using a borate solution or Copper Green. Copper Green is available at Home Depot in spray can or quart liquid. After applying solution, put on a coat of a good paint primer. The directions on the Copper Green say to immerse for many hours but I just paint on a couple of coatings until the wood end grain no longer absorbs the liquid. Note borate is harder to get. I believe the borate solution has a relatively short shelf life and normally it is mixed from dry granules before use. Pest control companies tend to use the borate solution - It is effective for both dry rot and termites. But I believe that also applies to Copper Green. « Show Less
1280108
1gal = 128 fl. oz .... IMHO I prefer the liquid for better soil penetration at time of application...with granules you run the risk of surface runoff & bird ingestion
2262640
It's really impossible to answer that question because it depends greatly on the amount of growth you are trying to kill. I researched coverage under the reviews and descriptions of the product (the smaller version of this product on Amazon has the directions) and others as well on the internet. Even with that I needed to double what I put down. One note... you must REALLY water the granules after application or it will do nothing at all. Also make sure the water run off isn't going to go where you want things to grow or it will kill everything in its path.
1107264
I know all about those rains as I am in Prescott.I suppose it depends on where it went but what I do is use Spectracide (Triazicide insect killer) spray in the spring, maybe two times 6 weeks apart and spread the granules around in the fall as it is systemic. After a year or so everything looks great. The winter moisture is MUCH lower and the stuff sinks in. I think I would wait till no rain and then apply. ( non professional opinion )
518149
I am a licensed pest control operator. If you used Tim-Bor to treat for a beetle infestation (usually little pencil-lead sized exit holes in the wood), then what you might be seeing is the frass (not sawdust) coming out of the exit holes. This will happen even with a dead beetle infestation, killing the beetle doesn't make the frass disappear. To be sure, put the wood on a clean surface, free of vibrations, for a week. If no more frass comes out, they are dead. If more frass came out, without ANY moving of the wood, well, repeat the treatment. Tim-Bor is an excellent, "tried and true", product. Be sure to follow the label exactly, if you do, it will do the job. Good luck, shouldn't be a problem. I am a licensed pest control operator. If you used Tim-Bor to treat for a beetle infestation (usually little pencil-lead sized exit holes in the wood), then what you might be seeing is the frass (not sawdust) coming out of the exit holes. This will happen even with a dead beetle infestation, killing the beetle doesn't make the frass disappear. To be sure, put the wood on a clean surface, free of vibrations, for a week. If no more frass comes out, they are dead. If more frass came out, without ANY moving of the wood, well, repeat the treatment. Tim-Bor is an excellent, "tried and... » Read More I am a licensed pest control operator. If you used Tim-Bor to treat for a beetle infestation (usually little pencil-lead sized exit holes in the wood), then what you might be seeing is the frass (not sawdust) coming out of the exit holes. This will happen even with a dead beetle infestation, killing the beetle doesn't make the frass disappear. To be sure, put the wood on a clean surface, free of vibrations, for a week. If no more frass comes out, they are dead. If more frass came out, without ANY moving of the wood, well, repeat the treatment. Tim-Bor is an excellent, "tried and true", product. Be sure to follow the label exactly, if you do, it will do the job. Good luck, shouldn't be a problem. « Show Less
1094708
It will seal and protect pine bark just fine. Be aware that it is a gloss finish and will make the final product somewhat shiny. If the item will be outdoors and exposed to the elements, you should consider a water-proofer product instead.
1256362
Not sure about pines. I have sprayed it around hardwood trees and it does not effect them.
1461135
Granules work best in spreaders because of their uniform shape and ability to drop through the hole by gravity.Depending on shape and moisture content of the cinder this spreader may work for you.I might suggest going with a larger capacity spreader.
801290
The Psyllium Husks from Barry Farm are finely ground. They were smaller granules than I was accustomed to (compared to the Coarse Metamucil grind), but I was able to use them with a little additional mixing.
323554
Agreed w/ Curran Murphy there--how the oil works is that it absorbs into the wood itself, and layer after layer/coat after coat builds up to form a tough exterior. Lots of good info about how to use it on YouTube
1017226
I think with pine especially with digger pine I would use at least 2 times a week. Oak is much cleaner.
1229311
the label (and it may be under the label) is a good start.. however if there is a lot of rain forecast, I use about a cup per 24 in container, 2 on trees less than 4 ft tall and 3 on pines over 8 ft. Also spread it around the drip line on trees /shrubs not in containers.. those in containers spread around the inside of the rim, putting it around the trunks is a waste as the trees/shrubs don't feed there. If you're in a drier climate than the PNW, either water heavily or reduce the amount and consider a second application in 2 weeks. Also consider the soil.. sandy soils will absorb faster and lessen the chance of burning, clay soils or dense loam holds the concentrations longer so some caution in over applying is warranted.
473521
If we have fresh cherries in the fridge, we use a little wedge from one of those. We have also had success with peanut butter... smearing about 1/4 tsp of peanut butter on the part that holds the bait.
1874962
I had read that Barkeepers was the cleaner of choice.I have used both the powder and the liquid. Both do a good job but I actually prefer the powder. Have not had an issue with it scratching.