I'm surprised no one mentions that you have to drill ten holes fairly close together in each joist for the lag screws, according to instructions. Ten seems like overkill. Won't this weaken the joist? I'm surprised no one mentions that you have to drill ten holes fairly close together in each joist for the lag screws, according to instructions. Ten seems like overkill. Won't this... » Read More I'm surprised no one mentions that you have to drill ten holes fairly close together in each joist for the lag screws, according to instructions. Ten seems like overkill. Won't this weaken the joist? « Show Less
1307954
The lag screws are not large. If you have doubts, brace the rafters. I used 2x4's to stabilize/strenthen the load-bearing rafters on an unfinished ceiling.
1307955
Most ceiling joists are 2x6 and bigger and I have installed two of these lifts on the same joists and have not seen a problem with sagging or splitting of the wood. Considering the lift will hold up to 250 pounds it needs to fastened securely. If you are concerned about your joists being weakened by drilling I'm sure you could come up with a cripple stud solution where a second piece of wood is fastened to the original joists with three bolts and then the lift is screwed into the cripple studs. Still drilling the original joist but only in three places rather the ten.
1593956
Find a doorway with a good header over the opening. be sure to drill pilot holes for your lag bolts. Use a stud finder to insure that the header is where you think it should be. remember the lag bolts must be into wood sheetrock will not hold you. If you do not properly pilot hole the lag bolts they will sheer off. If the pilot hole is to large they will not hold your weight. If unsure about the proper diameter to use google it.
939079
Bolts with nuts and washers are more secure than lag bolts (screwed in). This means that you have to have access to the upper side of the beam. If this is not possible, then perhaps this could be accomplished by boring a large hole through the side of the beam, the nut could be fed in (like Ikea furniture) and the bolt screwed into the nut.
1522553
I didn't have any problems at all. I loosely attached all the screws before tightening any thing down. I could see how there could be issues if someone tightened down one side in which case they wouldn't have any slack to line things up. Also I'm sure you could probably strip the wood if you over-tightened the screws.
1919177
There are several type of lag bolts that would work for concrete wall installation but the many holes that would be required & being so close together, my opinion is you wouldn't be satisfied long term, just my thoughts, I'm not a professional handyman.
2174878
The safe is not pre-drilled for bolting it down. The user manual includes instructions on how to drill through two of the feet on the bottom of the safe in order to bolt it to the floor. I don't remember whether or not the safe came with the lag bolts. If not, the instructions refer you to the manufacturer's website for recommended hardware.
281574
1) YES 2)NO 3) YES, but I just screwed directly from the bottom of shelflinks into the 2x4s, not from the top. I just put the wood on the floor and laid the shelflink on top of 2x4s and marked on the wood and drilled the screws without predrilling. The Home Depots cheapest 2x4 I used were soft enough so there was no need to drill a hole first. Used a portable drill with a screw head.
2250075
Maximum screw placement is 17". If your studs are 18" OC, you can make it work. Pre-drill pilot holes at outward angle of about 20 degrees. If your space is 18" inside the studs, you'll need to use an anchor on one side. My preference is the Hilti Toggler Bolt. Use a lag screw in one stud and space the other anchor as far apart as possible. This minimizes the distance to the stud. Then install an extra drywall screw in the stud as close as possible to the anchor. The smaller the drywall area between those two points, the stronger it will be. I'd even add a second anchor on that side, 2" closer to the center. If your equipment is heavy though, you might want to purchase something different. Maximum screw placement is 17". If your studs are 18" OC, you can make it work. Pre-drill pilot holes at outward angle of about 20 degrees. If your space is 18" inside the studs, you'll need to use an anchor on one side. My preference is the Hilti Toggler Bolt. Use a lag screw in one stud and space the other anchor as far apart as possible. This minimizes the distance to the stud. Then install an extra drywall screw in the stud as close as possible to the anchor. The smaller the drywall area between those two points, the stronger it will be. I'd even add a second anchor on... » Read More Maximum screw placement is 17". If your studs are 18" OC, you can make it work. Pre-drill pilot holes at outward angle of about 20 degrees. If your space is 18" inside the studs, you'll need to use an anchor on one side. My preference is the Hilti Toggler Bolt. Use a lag screw in one stud and space the other anchor as far apart as possible. This minimizes the distance to the stud. Then install an extra drywall screw in the stud as close as possible to the anchor. The smaller the drywall area between those two points, the stronger it will be. I'd even add a second anchor on that side, 2" closer to the center. If your equipment is heavy though, you might want to purchase something different. « Show Less
440914
Hi Melvin, You will need at least 2 people recommended for this. If you are going to bore holes then you would need a drill. Have a great day, Michael Fitzgerald Exclusive Home & Furniture Inc.
2270861
You can find four screws under the four different center pieces. Just tighten them up a bit and it should be fine.
1944776
I think it will be really tight. The width of the unit is 1 2/3 inches without the bit, plus you have to add the length of the screw so I think it might not work that well in that situation. I just put it in a single-gang box and it looks a little to tight for working comfort. Are you working with new or old construction. If you are working with new construction buy boxes for that purpose and nail or screw them in, but if you are working on a wall that already has drywall or paneling use old work boxes and they work just fine. I've done a lot of that and have never had a problem. Good luck! I think it will be really tight. The width of the unit is 1 2/3 inches without the bit, plus you have to add the length of the screw so I think it might not work that well in that situation. I just put it in a single-gang box and it looks a little to tight for working comfort. Are you working with new or old construction. If you are working with new construction buy boxes for that purpose and nail or screw them in, but if you are working on a wall that already has drywall or paneling use old work boxes and they work just fine. I've done a lot of that and have never had a problem. Good luck!
1324693
YES! It's just two pieces and you space them as far apart as you need. The key is to hit joists and if you don't line up with joists, then attach wood to the ceiling between joists, then attach to that piece of wood. I'm a middle aged woman and did this myself so you'll be fine! ;-)
1942393
Honestly, it took 2 people to stack them because the boards, certain pieces in the beginning asks for you to stack it but the moment you let go of your hands, it falls apart... It's not user friendly when it comes to building but after it's done, it's worth it because mine turns without any trouble. It also feels very study after all the screws etc are installed in place :) hope that made sense!
2107435
You may do it with 5. There isn't enough pieces to do it with 6. And you should probably consider have it fixed against the wall because it is going to be high.
436255
I just screwed the lag bolts into the wall about half way then I put the sink on the bolts and put the plastic spacer against the porcelain them the washer then the nut and tightened pretty tight just don't over tighten or will break. Good luck hope this helped
253993
Lag bolts come in different sizes and lengths. Obviously, the larger the bolt and/or the longer the bolt, the more power will be needed. I have used my Ryobi cordless impact driver for driving large lag bolts into wood, but not concrete. As far as cordless tools, Ryobi's impact driver at 1,600 inch lbs. of torque is as good as the other cordless brands. Having said that, the Ryobi cordless impact driver at 1,600 in lbs, or (1,600 inches/lbs / 12inches/ft) = 133 ft lbs of torque, is much less than my electric DeWalt impact driver at 350 ft lbs. My advice, if you already have the Ryobi 18v impact driver is to go ahead and try it out. If you pre drill a pilot hole for the lag bolts, I think it would work. Pre drilling the pilot hole of the correct size will really help. If you have not purchased an impact driver, but have a local Home Depot, ask the salesman if the Ryobi cordless impact driver would work for concrete lag bolts of the size you will be using, and if not, could you return it. Or, go old school by drilling a hole in the concrete, tapping the lag bolt into the concrete with a hammer, and torquing it down with a manual socket set using armstrong power. The last time I had to build anything with concrete lag bolt, all I had was an electric drill, concrete drill bits, the lag bolts, a hammer, and a good socket set. Wish I would have had my impact drivers for those projects, then I would have been able to offer better advice. Good luck on your project.
1067998
Yes the box is pre-drilled for lag bolts you just have to make sure that you know the exact positioning before you put the bolts in, there is no room for adjustments. Also the python lock is recommended with this box with one of those locks that you cant cut with a bolt cutter... the round one. Good Luck.