Does a cool-only model of this exist? Confirming: Can this model be used for cool-only if the wiring and switches for the heat are simply ignored?
1316519
1. I am not a Heating-AC technician so take what I say below with caution!2. I don't know for sure if a AC only model thermostat exists but, I think that I saw one somewhere while I was shopping for this one.3. I suppose if you left the Heat side wiring disconnected that this model thermostat may work for AC only but, I can't say for sure.
1174231
The actual cooling unit is 12V, but the controller board is 110V, so it uses a plug. Although it doesn't cool well. And after a number of repairs and modifications to try to get this thing to work without leaking, I eventually threw this thing in the garbage.
744649
This unit is a "straight cooling only" unit. NO heat. Put 12000 btu with electric heat in the search window. there are several. Or 12000 btu heat pump and see what you find.
696671
Heat bulb and fan have separate wires so they can be connected to separate switches---just connect only the one you want to use--
2032854
The model number may be different than the electrical capacity. Its really a question for the manufacturer. My installation turned out to be unsuccessful in terms of providing adequate heat. Our building does not have sufficient insulation in the exterior walls, and our tenant has had to supplement the wall units with free standing radiant heaters.
805816
There is an option that does no heat, DF-EFP148NH. That unit is meant to be recessed and may be better for you.
2218939
The instructions for wiring are totally inadequate. Google the device and look for a wiring diagram. Once wired correctly, it will switch automatically between heating and cooling (two different outlets).
2161962
Are you sure the unit is set on "cool" and not just "fan"? I have done that before. Otherwise it must not be working right. We have our unit in a second house which I know dates back to about 1900, so it is not well insulated nor does it have energy efficient windows. The downstairs is 30' by 25', with four rooms that are all connected, so you can make a circle through the rooms. We have the unit in one room and a large fan in the opposite corner of the house to keep the air moving. We were just there and for 2 days with temps in the high 80's the EdgeStar kept the downstairs at 69-70 degrees. Are you sure the unit is set on "cool" and not just "fan"? I have done that before. Otherwise it must not be working right. We have our unit in a second house which I know dates back to about 1900, so it is not well insulated nor does it have energy efficient windows. The downstairs is 30' by 25', with four rooms that are all connected, so you can make a circle through the rooms. We have the unit in one room and a large fan in the opposite corner of the house to keep the air moving. We were just there and for 2 days with temps in the high 80's the EdgeStar kept the... » Read More Are you sure the unit is set on "cool" and not just "fan"? I have done that before. Otherwise it must not be working right. We have our unit in a second house which I know dates back to about 1900, so it is not well insulated nor does it have energy efficient windows. The downstairs is 30' by 25', with four rooms that are all connected, so you can make a circle through the rooms. We have the unit in one room and a large fan in the opposite corner of the house to keep the air moving. We were just there and for 2 days with temps in the high 80's the EdgeStar kept the downstairs at 69-70 degrees. « Show Less
744022
You can think of this as an air conditioner followed by a heater, so i theory it cools then heats to the same temperature. The reality is anything that is electrical will create some heat, but this unit doesn't significantly add to the heat of any room it is intended for. Keep in mind that this is a very robust unit, intended for a basement, or multi room area with good air flow between the rooms. You wouldn't want to use it in a small bedroom.
679506
For myself, I wired it to have its own switch. But I suppose if you are a savvy enough of an electrician, you can pig tail the connections. The item has instructions for different types of wiring needs, including a situation where you can have separate switches for fan, heat and/or light.
1066827
Mine has a cord switch, and a transformer. If I remember the directions they wanted the transformer exposed to fresh air, probably for cooling. I do not think I would hard wire this unit.
1892647
I am not an electrician but I guess an inline switch is possible. However, the switch on the unit is a knob you turn, and where you position the knob determines what temp you get. Turning it all the way will give you max heat which is too warm for my shop. I set it in the middle so,ethereal when I turn it on, and go up and down when it is stable. My garage is 28 x 24 and it takes maybe 15 minutes to go from forties to 70ish. I just flip it on in AM, drink some coffee and eat breakfast, and then go to the shop. It is toasty when I get there.
2103886
I have the battery powered version of this. But I assume it works same as the battery version which does auto switch from heat to cool mode.
1765414
It has power in, power out, and thermostat connections that need connected. Depending on use may have to move some jumpers. It's default jumpers are set to cool.
739870
It is capable of Heating & Cooling, even if it is a split system. But you would need a second one for a second zone, I am almost for certain. What I would suggest is a call to their customer service number. Their Technical Support Staff is second to NONE! They answered my questions (I had a separate Heating System and Cooling System.) Their thermostat works for both and they stayed on the line to help me get it wired! I love it, can call it up and make adjustments on my Iphone, and on my computer Web Browser.
973887
I think it will not work because it will switch ON the load (heater) when its temp reading is too low; you want something that will switch on the load (cooler) when the temp reading is too high.
198748
You're right, no way to attach a heat sink... I also would like to see a regulator that could have the potentiometers attached off board..... there are applications that involve voltage / current changes and using the installed trim pots is not that fun...