how can this be wired to just protect a few appliances like new electric dryer and a frig and freezer?
1313049
Why would you want to isolate a few appliances? Just protect the whole house and be done.
1313050
If you have a separate breaker box next to the appliance then you can install it at that location. This is what I did with my water well. I have another installed at the main breaker of the house. Because the well house is located 50' from the house I decided to install one there to protect from a direct lightning strike on the well house. If you're not familiar with this type of installation then please consult a professional electrician.
1313051
Find the breaker there on an wire it to it. Best to do the entire house. Easy, just follow the directions that comes with the unit if you're not familiar with electric, or uneasy with working in an electric panel.It's a wonderful little unit that will do the entire house.
743810
No, but there is typically no need. A surge protector anywhere on the circuit protects that entire circuit. So unless you have the duplex spilt into two circuits (common on newer washer and dryer outlets) there will be no need for two in the same outlet.
398251
need to be wired. This product may not even meet UL requirements. the switch wiring is all bare metal without insulation. I bought here for $65, but Lowes sells for $40.
1366733
I used the house to protect a wireless driveway motion detector. It works fine, nice and dry. A camera would also work if the power cord wiring is not a problem
1270886
The unit provides protection against electrical spikes and surges. Your problem is with the electrical utility provider could be a transformer issue
658479
This is not a surge protector. Many appliances and devices use a trickle of electricity even when they are not actually turned on, which wastes electricity, not to mention wasting your money. The purpose of the Belkin Power Conserve Switch is to cut power completely to whatever is plugged into it. You restore power to your appliance by pressing the small power switch on the right-hand side of the switch when it's time to use the appliance, and then off again, when use is complete. I have six of these installed in my kitchen and have been delighted with their performance and ease of use.
306505
Hi Art, I had an electrician run a wire and install an outdoor, weather protection covered, outdoor GFI power outlet on exterior wall. I plugged the heater's power cord into it. Don't hard wire it, as it's handy to be able to unplug the heater when you need to service or repair it. Make it a "two gang" outlet so you can use the other socket for other purposes. If you're asking about a back-up source of power in the event of a complete power outage, I'm not sure what to use for that. Amazon reviews mention using power back-up that's used for computers. The controller was included in box. It looks like a remote, but it is wired to the heater. The wire are not long enough to attach the controller to the wall. So it's just dangling under the heater. I'll need to figure out a way to attach it to the wall.
1334600
Plug is wired to transfer switch and cord plugs into that plug from generator
363141
You might be able to do that, but it won't be safe. Three-pronged appliances need to be grounded for safety reasons (electric shock hazard), but in your setup the appliance will not be grounded. You can get on of these:GE 52149 Handy Switch Grounded Whiteor one of these:TRIPLE PLUG IN CORD SWITCH WITH SAFETY REMINDER LIGHT
1394001
Disclaimer: Don't get shocked. Also, you must use a plug to power this entire set up. If you hard wire it into the power of your house and something goes wrong insurance won't cover it. If you look at the instructions it shows terminals 1-6. The temperature probe is on 5 & 6. The controller is powered on 3 & 4. The load, or your receptacle, is on 2 & 4. It shows the built-in relay above on 1 & 2. The best way to wire this is attach the live wire (small blade of power cord) to 1 and 3. The neutral wire (larger blade of power cord) connects to 4 and the receptacle (larger slot). This puts the relay before the receptacle which keeps the power at bay until it switches on. If you do it the other way, then the voltage is inside the keezer even though its off. I assume the keezer has a ground, then so should the power plug and the receptacle, and make sure they are wired. If your receptacle case is metal, the ground should attach to this as well. If you follow this, and you are up to it, include a 10 amp fuse on the live line before the relay. This will protect the relay if you plug in a bigger load or have a voltage spike. Good luck.
1780544
While you can plug a refrigerator into it, and surge protectors are a good idea, remember you don't want to plug multiple items into the circuit.
226266
not sure, but, you want to protect the outlet and plugin from the weather. ideally the temp and wet/dry sensor is designed to lay in the gutter.
1655914
Yes, you can use it to protect any electrical unit(s) that do not go over the input rating.
1453769
Being mounted outside it should be hard wired through sealtite to a disconnect or switch. Also would require a GFCI at the breaker panel.
1401915
No. unless that outlet controlled other outlets that should be gfi protected such as ones close to water like the sink
674301
It's wired internally from breaker to outlets only, but looping to another box should be easy.
334277
I've been thinking about my response, and the gentleman that posted contact informatio for Tripp-Lite is the best response. Think I need to do more research myself. I've used these protectors on electronics for fear of utility voltage spikes and close lightning strikes. My kitchen appliances, AC, PC are all protected by them. They are massively constructed. Fortunarely I have a wood furnace with no electronics, but I do keep the refrigerator, microwave, coffe pot and electronic range operating on a genset. Contact Tripp-Lite and also research as much as you can.