I'm new to DSLR photography... what do the initial APO and DG mean in regards to this lens?
1308644
Here's what I found out about the meaning of APO DG initials on the Sigma 70-300 lens. The explanation is from a website that reviews lenses. Throughout modern times the Sigma 70/75-300mm APO variants were always positioned as a supposedly superior alternative to the base offerings of the genuine manufacturers in this lens group. The latest incarnation is the Sigma AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG APO macro. Sigma claims to have used an APOchromatic design for the lens which is surely a little optimistic but they've incorporated some special elements into it to stand out from the rest of the crowd. The DG (Digital) designation refers to an improved coating optimized for digital sensors but naturally the lens remains still usable on film SLRs.
505749
I also have not seen this reference in any printed material. All true macros should have this. I have been satisfied with the image quality. My only problem is on auto focus. If the focus has to search and cannot lock focus it falls back to infinity focus even if the close limit is chosen. Otherwise it is a fine lens.
667267
The letters stand for the quality of the glass and the assembly of the lens. The "AL" lens is the lowest quality, and is the slowest (f/2.4) lens. Slowest because the aperature only opens to 2.4, so at a given ISO, you will have to use a slower shutter speed. The DA f/1.8 is a great lens for everyday use and is fast. The "FA" is for full frame cameras. If you have a crop sensor camera (Pentax K- series) you don't need a full frame lens. The f/1.4 is larger (faster) than the f/1.8, but you don't need the full frame option if you are using a crop sensor camera. If you have a full frame camera (35mm sensor) you need the FA lens, the others will not work. The letters stand for the quality of the glass and the assembly of the lens. The "AL" lens is the lowest quality, and is the slowest (f/2.4) lens. Slowest because the aperature only opens to 2.4, so at a given ISO, you will have to use a slower shutter speed. The DA f/1.8 is a great lens for everyday use and is fast. The "FA" is for full frame cameras. If you have a crop sensor camera (Pentax K- series) you don't need a full frame lens. The f/1.4 is larger (faster) than the f/1.8, but you don't need the full frame option if you are using a crop sensor camera. If you have... » Read More The letters stand for the quality of the glass and the assembly of the lens. The "AL" lens is the lowest quality, and is the slowest (f/2.4) lens. Slowest because the aperature only opens to 2.4, so at a given ISO, you will have to use a slower shutter speed. The DA f/1.8 is a great lens for everyday use and is fast. The "FA" is for full frame cameras. If you have a crop sensor camera (Pentax K- series) you don't need a full frame lens. The f/1.4 is larger (faster) than the f/1.8, but you don't need the full frame option if you are using a crop sensor camera. If you have a full frame camera (35mm sensor) you need the FA lens, the others will not work. « Show Less
429400
This lens IS for FF cameras. Sigma's lenses for APS cameras are DC, this lens is DG which is for all FF cameras.
1672483
I'm in agreement with you on the lenses making the difference. In terms of image quality it would be near impossible to distinguish images taken with the D3100 and ANY other consumer (APS-C) camera. I have the 35mm 1.8G that captures great images and has a neutral (neither zoom nor wide angle) perspective making it a perfect all around lens. My 50mm 1.8G appears even sharper but the perspective may be a bit tight for some shots. And images from the 70-300VR are far better than the 55-200VR or 55-300VR. The other lens to consider would be the 18-105VR to replace the 18-55VR because the latter lacks enough zoom to make it practical as a single lens solution when you want to travel light. I'm in agreement with you on the lenses making the difference. In terms of image quality it would be near impossible to distinguish images taken with the D3100 and ANY other consumer (APS-C) camera. I have the 35mm 1.8G that captures great images and has a neutral (neither zoom nor wide angle) perspective making it a perfect all around lens. My 50mm 1.8G appears even sharper but the perspective may be a bit tight for some shots. And images from the 70-300VR are far better than the 55-200VR or 55-300VR. The other lens to consider would be the 18-105VR to replace the 18-55VR because the... » Read More I'm in agreement with you on the lenses making the difference. In terms of image quality it would be near impossible to distinguish images taken with the D3100 and ANY other consumer (APS-C) camera. I have the 35mm 1.8G that captures great images and has a neutral (neither zoom nor wide angle) perspective making it a perfect all around lens. My 50mm 1.8G appears even sharper but the perspective may be a bit tight for some shots. And images from the 70-300VR are far better than the 55-200VR or 55-300VR. The other lens to consider would be the 18-105VR to replace the 18-55VR because the latter lacks enough zoom to make it practical as a single lens solution when you want to travel light. « Show Less
1595463
The lens works with both crop and full-frame sensors, hence the DG label. It is a fantastically sharp lens, you will love it!
31789
I would go to the website and see what info you can find there. They may have both lenses there. You can also try to go to a photo review site such as Ken Rockwell to see what they have to say.
1582486
Brandon. It doesn't say when you asked this question but I figured the answer out. First, I just purchased the last one that a storefront had for $289, so i'm sorry if I stole the lens from you :X. Second, the price is going to be interesting on this lens from here on out. It has been discontinued due to a recently announced new model. The question is how much will this new model cost? To my knowledge that hasn't been answered. I decided to snag it at this price because if the new model is upwards of $400 then it out of my price range anyway. If the new model comes out sub $400 this older model might tank in price. Supply and demand will dictate based on that information. As for big stores, I don't see you having much luck. Most did firesales and liquidated their stock already to mitigate the price risk. I can tell you that this is my first fixed lens for general photography. It hasnt even arrived yet, but when it does I plan to test it out. If its not to my liking I can resell it to you at the price I purchased + the tax I paid + shipping. I would generally just return it but that lowers your chance of it ending up in your hands. If this was a recent post just come back to me and I can show you proof that it hasn't even arrived yet :). Take care!
8522
Hardy,Thanks for the info about getting better lenses. I just "bit the bullet" and bought the 24-105mm L lens. I have heard this same wise advice from other photographers, and I am looking forward to getting sharper photos with the new lens, and I will try to get only L lenses from now on. In the end, you truly get what you pay for.
284509
It is a good all around lens, however it´s not particularly a wide angle. If you are really into landscape photography and you already have a standard zoom lens, i recomend to go for a tokina 11-16 or a sigma 10-20. I´ve owned the second one, and if you get a good copy, it´s one of the best values in the market for DX cameras.
1937696
Hi All, very interested in these postings but still can't get this lens to work with my D70 in M or AF. I too get fEE message displayed and shutter won'r fire, even after locking off at f22 etc. Starting to wonder if its a camera setting or am I missing something?
2078483
The APS-C sensor is smaller, it means less pixels, less details, less light ?? , in other hand with full frame your lens are used at 100%, don't need to multiply for 1,6 as usual (for example a 24 mm Wide lens will be a 38 mm in fact) choose full frame!more info at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format
394008
It was a mystery to me...the lens came in a Nikon factory box and there were a whole bunch of smaller boxes with cleaner, filters, mini tripod, etc. - my guess is that it refers to all the accessories. I haven't used most of them, but the lens is awesome.
449696
I'm a moderator at Nikonians.org and a more detailed discussion to help you could be handled more effectively there. Generally speaking the D7000 is set up with defaults for a consumer orientation. That means images are a little softer and brighter to be optimized for small prints shared among friends or on the web. When you look at magnified images optimized for small prints, it will look soft. The assumption is if you are more advanced, you'll also know or learn to optimize your settings. Frustratiing but true. :) For me, that means increasing the in camera sharpening, keeping noise reduction off for most situations, and using a single focus point rather than letting the camera automatically select the focus point. If you choose a single focus point, you have to watch how you use it. You need to place the point on the part of your subject that needs the sharpest focus. Maybe it is the eye of a person, or for landscapes about 1/3 of the way into the frame. Also keep in mind that a 16 MB image is going to show more resolution and reveal technique errors that were not seen on 12 MB images. We saw the same thing when we moved to the D200 from D100/D70 cameras. Generally the camera and lenses are pretty good. You can buy better lenses, but it's best to learn to optimize the gear you have. Make sure you have enough light to freeze the subject and eliminate movement. Your shutter speeds need to be fast enough to hand hold - 1/500 sec or more is best if you are testing. Don't shoot at the extremes of your zoom and expect perfection - most lenses perform better if you stay away from maximum and minimum focal lengths. Stop down your aperture a little to f/6.3 or even f/8. Most lenses perform better stopped down a stop or two - which also gives you more depth of field. And for testing, pick a simple target with clear contrasting edges. It normally takes a little practice. You have to make your errors predictable - not just your successes. Know when you are at or beyond your limits. Hope this helps.
563693
Not grey market. Brand new Tokina with 3-year warranty. This is definitely a Pro level lens. Big. Heavy. Durable. Mine came with a pretty good lens cover. Use it to protect the front element, as this lens will not take filters, much like the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8. I'm a photojournalist, not a "pixel-peeker." In real-life image making, it's as sharp and robust as any Nikon or Canon lens I've ever used. Auto-focus not quite as fast or silent as a Nikon or Canon, but at this focal length range, those things aren't as crucial. Haven't missed any shots due to those issues. Highly recommended if you can't afford a Nikon or Canon equivalent. Not grey market. Brand new Tokina with 3-year warranty. This is definitely a Pro level lens. Big. Heavy. Durable. Mine came with a pretty good lens cover. Use it to protect the front element, as this lens will not take filters, much like the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8. I'm a photojournalist, not a "pixel-peeker." In real-life image making, it's as sharp and robust as any Nikon or Canon lens I've ever used. Auto-focus not quite as fast or silent as a Nikon or Canon, but at this focal length range, those things aren't as crucial. Haven't missed any shots due to those issues. Highly... » Read More Not grey market. Brand new Tokina with 3-year warranty. This is definitely a Pro level lens. Big. Heavy. Durable. Mine came with a pretty good lens cover. Use it to protect the front element, as this lens will not take filters, much like the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8. I'm a photojournalist, not a "pixel-peeker." In real-life image making, it's as sharp and robust as any Nikon or Canon lens I've ever used. Auto-focus not quite as fast or silent as a Nikon or Canon, but at this focal length range, those things aren't as crucial. Haven't missed any shots due to those issues. Highly recommended if you can't afford a Nikon or Canon equivalent. « Show Less
1935829
Many reasons. In this instance, this lens is part of a "split kit." Here is a link to some good information about Canon cameras and lenses, authorized, unauthorized USA, Import and grey market items. http://www.canonpricewatch.com/blog/authorized-unauthorized-dealers-and-grey-market-explained/
2060950
Hello... To be honest, I returned the lens because I could not figure it out and I realized I bought the wrong lens... Good luck...