Wondering if they make extension wires. I need to mount the transformer above the cabinets -code says no 120volt inside the cabinet & need long wires.
736688
These lights probably stretch out where the transformer is about 5-6ft longer than the last light puck. Each puck is spaced about 3-4 ft
1316116
I don't think the company supplies an extension wire, but you should be able to cut and splice your own extension into the set to accommodate your need.
1316117
As long as you wire the 120V inside the wall to the transformer, then you can use low voltage wire from the transformer to anywhere you wish, as the code requires no protection for anything under 24V. (i.e your door bell wire)
220339
chuck you can buy a 60w class 2 transformer that dimmable but there big and I usually install then in a cabinet under the sink but what I figured out if use a normal 72 w transformer or a lap top transformer 500millaamps will work fine and install a 12v dimmer and break the load side of the 12v is a cleaner look jerry@starelectricservices.com for more help
1139771
Thanks, Stan! Yeah, I've since checked w/ my local building dept. and it's definitely a no-no to run any AC power cord inside of a wall in any size, shape or form. Period. Will try adding a receptacle behind the TV because I loathe any kind of visible conduit, however discreet it might look. Hopefully, one of the two existing receptacles in the area are the last on a line. Otherwise, I think I'd have to bring an electrician into the picture. [Groan!]
50646
I'll ask my husband (not here right now), but my thought is that if the transformer dies, do you really want it hard wired? That's what happened with our previous lights. The lights were fine but the transformer died.
104465
I think you want something different. If I understand the question, you are looking for an adaptor. I have that problem as well in my older house. I also have a lot of adaptors in my outlets.
1062606
I've never seen one, they make transformers to convert 12 volt to 120, that may work
880349
The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if you do not want to put screw holes in the mounting surface. The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if... » Read More The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if you do not want to put screw holes in the mounting surface. « Show Less
1519963
If I remember correctly the wiring harness is a separate purchase - there is a plug and a transformer box that is needed for these. I bought these for lights in my kitchen cabinets - they are a really nice addition.
817692
I would assume any un-shielded wire would work though I have not tried extending it.
1194919
Have to make your own -low voltage wires - 120v wires - 240v wires plus conduit or what is code
1408829
do not use a extension cord! these heaters are hard wired and they need there own circuit.I have thirty five years in the electrical trade, but do what you think is wright.
132482
I don't know if the Back 2 Life company can supply you with one. Mine broke too but because of my background in electricity, I was able to take the transformer case apart and re-solder the wires onto the transformer. It's not very pretty now but it works. If you can find a handyman that does electrical work, he may be able to do the same for you. This is a 120 volt AC to 21 volt AC transformer, not a very common item.
1082285
You can add strips, and they come with the needed connection. You are limited only by the output of the transformer I think...
338798
Oh I'm sorry I responded to the wrong item. But the same applies. I'm not sure what wires are needed for this. If you take it to a shop they will more than likely provide them. Sorry about that.
1726793
I too have the same question. I will try to buy a 120 V step down transformer.... meanwhile wanted to know which transformer someone has used it sucessfully with this? Is a transformer based converter needed or normal wiothout transformer work? I had one already but not sure if to use this or buy a transformer based 120 V
1449533
Depending on your local electrical codes, you SHOULD NOT conceal the transformer and it's electrical connections in an enclosed stud cavity. You're not even supposed to have any inaccessible junction boxes, such as those behind drywall. Depending on whether or not the existing thermostat wire is stapled or otherwise secured in the various wall cavities, you could use it to pull a new thermostat wire that has enough conductors to convey power to the thermostat while mounting the transformer in your basement or wherever your HVAC equipment is. That all being said, if you're going to put the transformer in a stud bay regardless of what anyone says, it's much safer to use a 4" junction box and the included mounting plate such that the high voltage connections are made inside of the junction box. There is a fuse (thermal or otherwise) inside the transformer on the primary winding that should open up if the transformer is overloaded. This will render the transformer useless if it is allowed to be overloaded; however, if you're merely powering a thermostat with it, this is unlikely to happen. The least favorable solution would be to foot-mount the transformer to a stud as this would leave the HV wiring exposed in the wall cavity. If you can't fit a 4" junction box in the cavity (remember you can use nails or screws to mount a 4" box to a stud SIDEWAYS as there are two screw holes on each of the shallow sides, typically), I would at least use a small "handy box" to protect the wiring. IN THE VERY LEAST, PLEASE DON'T SIMPLY MAKE THE CONNECTION WITH WIRE NUTS LOOSE IN THE WALL CAVITY! Repeating myself: If at all possible, use the existing thermostat wire and/or "fish tape" to pull new thermostat wire with at least one added conductor to the site of the thermostat. This will allow you to do the proper thing and mount the transformer with your boiler/furnace/whatever. There you can either foot-mount it to a stud or mount it in a 4" junction box. I hope this helps.
1135175
The ones I got all came with current transformers. If there is no wiring diagram then wire the CT to the two wires extending from the back. Hook 120v or 240v too the screw terminals supplied.