It says designed to use from chamber to muzzle. Does that mean I can't use it from muzzle to chamber?
298189
Two thoughts on this. First, having a perfect crown at the muzzle is a must for accuracy. For this reason, the rule of thumb is always clean chamber to muzzle to lessen the chance of damaging the crown. The other thought, with this bit in particular, is it will act like a squeegee, pulling (or pushing) the carbon, solvent, and crud in front of it. Because it fits the bore, and is non absorbent, all of that crud would end up in the chamber, as it's larger than the bore.
298190
Assuming you are being serious and not a troll. You never want to clean muzzle to chamber if you can help it. The risk is damaging the muzzle effecting the accuracy of the firearm. However with some revolvers this can't be helped so be careful.
298191
When cleaning any firearm it is commonly accepted practice to run patches, bore snakes, ect. through from the breach to the muzzle whenever it is possible - the same direction the bullet or wad passes through the barrel. This way you aren't pushing the cleaner, powder residue, etc. into the breach.
298192
You have to pull it threw the the barrel you can't push it. You should clean your guns chamber to muzzle
1441090
It works just fine with suppressors or muzzle brakes - as ling as they are not permanently attached - just remove them boefore you use the boresight device
1091332
Not sure which mount, most use see though mounts so they can still use the irons. Doing so tends to raise your cheek weld a little high off the stock in my opinion. Use whatever mounts are high enough to allow clear ejection of brass from the chamber.
2001933
It's your choice. The bullet will still go out of the barrel, and hit somewhere regardless of whether you re-sight or not. Once you "zero" your weapon, you want to shoot it the same way, with the same tools, in the same manner. Otherwise you risk affecting the "zero", possibly changing where bullet impacts. You don't HAVE to re-sight, but it may impact your "zero". If you can live with that, then you're fine. Otherwise you'll have to re-sight.
889257
You could get away with it by holding the forend with your hand, but the Y portion in front does not clamp it. I have changed muzzle brakes on it without much trouble. But I would reccomend that you get a vise block for the magwell instead. Much sturdier.
1399588
I do not have the instructions with me but if I remember correctly you place the chrono 10 feet from the muzzle with center fire handguns and rifles. The instructions that come with it tell you exactly what to do.
1195440
If your gun has a standard rail under the muzzle, there shouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps.
1446286
I have mine mounted on a Rossi .243 and seems to work great. I do not see anything wrong with mounting it on a muzzleloader.
2096410
It goes on the magazine tube, not the barrel. Couldn't tell you if it will work for your application or not.
818173
This will protrude pass the barrel by at least one inch. What someone suggested is to cut off the part that protrudes but I haven't tried that.
1890358
The muzzle brake is two pieces. You can shoot it with or without the outer sleeve. The outer sleeve helps direct the sound wave away from the shooter. It does work well. I get a lot of complements. The piece laying horizontal in the picture above is an assembled one. You get the two vertical pieces in the picture.
400385
This muzzle brake is made to clamp onto the barrel using the front sight base to prevent it from being eventually pulled off by the gases from firing. I never tried this unit on a barrel without a front sight. You may consider having it silver-soldered in place, which would still cost much less than having the barrel threaded for a screw-on type brake. But, to just clamp it on, it may work itself loose after some firing. I just don't know for sure.
827680
There is some truth to this. The sight you mount to this rail may not be perfectly aligned with the centerline of the barrel once the rifle is rotated. This means that the center of the sight will be to the left or the right of the centerline of the barrel. When you zero the sight make sure that you take this offset into account. For example, if the sight is mounted .5" to the left of the bore center, then make sure that the point of aim (dot) is also .5" to the left of the actual target impact point. If you don't do this, your horizontal zero will be valid for only the distance at which you set the zero since your point of aim will not be parallel to the bore. There is some truth to this. The sight you mount to this rail may not be perfectly aligned with the centerline of the barrel once the rifle is rotated. This means that the center of the sight will be to the left or the right of the centerline of the barrel. When you zero the sight make sure that you take this offset into account. For example, if the sight is mounted .5" to the left of the bore center, then make sure that the point of aim (dot) is also .5" to the left of the actual target impact point. If you don't do this, your horizontal zero will be valid for only the distance... » Read More There is some truth to this. The sight you mount to this rail may not be perfectly aligned with the centerline of the barrel once the rifle is rotated. This means that the center of the sight will be to the left or the right of the centerline of the barrel. When you zero the sight make sure that you take this offset into account. For example, if the sight is mounted .5" to the left of the bore center, then make sure that the point of aim (dot) is also .5" to the left of the actual target impact point. If you don't do this, your horizontal zero will be valid for only the distance at which you set the zero since your point of aim will not be parallel to the bore. « Show Less
703251
I have this and it's just muzzle break for recoil. You will still see a flash. It reduced my recoil nicely however the blow back to reduce recoil blows backwards. Doesn't bother me but I know some people don't like that.
1690004
There are Bore Sighter sets that mount in the muzzle and have adapters. I find they are not very accurate. The sightmark style is accurate as it goes in the chamber. You will needseperate calibers however. In short there is no adapter.
2022080
It doesn't seem to have anyplace to put an attachment. It seems as if an attachment would slide off because the barrel end is so large. I hope that helps.
2155031
I'm not sure. I have 2 snub-nose .38 revolvers but have not attempted to do so.