I bought this set up and it's great, but I need 2" more drop to be level. Any recommendations for a brand and size of wd drop down shank? I don't see anything by Pro Series and I want to make sure that the holes line up. Thanks, Mike I bought this set up and it's great, but I need 2" more drop to be level. Any recommendations for a brand and size of wd drop down shank? I don't see anything by Pro Series and I want... » Read More I bought this set up and it's great, but I need 2" more drop to be level. Any recommendations for a brand and size of wd drop down shank? I don't see anything by Pro Series and I want to make sure that the holes line up. Thanks, Mike « Show Less
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Hello Mike.Keyword in part number "54998". Bert CampRigid Hitch Amazon Sales
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I assume you turned itdown, all holes down, and yes they make a lower adapter..
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You have to search under Reese, to find that square receiver shank, as the pro series are a bit different but as per Reese will fit any head unit. Look for Pro Series 63971, you will see how it is different, or you can look for Reese 3215, that should be more square in nature more like the one you have now. The 3215 will be the closest to what you have, and it has a 6 3/4 drop. Hope that helps.
709757
I honestly cannot tell you where to get more tool holders, but.....I used a half sheet of OSB and drilled holes for my flooring saw because the mounting holes were off center . I purchased some nuts and screws from a True Value hardware store and mounted the OSB to the stand mounts for the saw. Then mounted flooring saw to OSB. Maybe a similar setup could work for you?
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Take the bolts and nuts to any ACE or True Value Hardware stores. The folks there should be able to find equivalent sizes (if not identical threading) to replace the stock hardware with longer versions. Go with stainless steel if you can find it -- the few bucks extra will be worth it once you see how quick regular steel hardware can rust (and forced to replace it over and over). Cheers and all the best, -Rob
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What model router do you have? I see it's a Dewalt but is it a plunge router? There's only one lift for a plunge router that I know of called a Router Raizer that aren't that expensive. http://www.routertechnologies.com/ Get the extension, it's worth every penny. For a standard lift, I know they can run up to $500 for an electronic lift. While that's a great feature you can still create repeatable cuts with almost any lift. Try checking Craigslist in your area, maybe someone is selling a lift. Good luck!
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I've had the best luck in any NAS or NAS-type device (home-built PC utilized as a NAS) with the WD-Red drives. Any other 2-4TB drives I've tried have failed within the first 12 months of use. If this is going to be a 7x24 device, then I highly recommend spending the little bit extra for the Red series - they have better vibration isolation for multiple drive installations and always-on access. Drive failures were drastically reduced once I switched over to Red drives - this is across three different NAS devices, different vendors (Thecus, WD, and home-built).
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I have the 5/8" dia x 10" long bit. It has a turned shaft that appears to be right at 1/2" dia...perhaps even a 32'nd less or so. This item is for a common/std "hammer drill" -- NOT the SDS series. There are NO FLATS on the shank. Hope this helps. Mel in Montana
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I would use nothing BUT these drives in anything I built or upgraded. They're a bit pricier, and no one ever thinks about it, but the warranty on THESE hard drives, the WD Black series, is a full 5Y. VERY few other mfrs even offer a 5y warranty. And WD drives earn that warranty reputation, I haven't had a WD drive fail, EVER. In each case -- over a dozen -- they've become useless through increasing capacity, never mechanical/electronic failure. That is, I probably have an 80gig WD drive that's still functioning. It's just not worth plugging in and taking up a SATA channel when I can get that capacity on a freaking flash drive nowadays... Yes, they're that good. You can "save money" by buying something cheaper. But you'll pay in the long run with headaches from lost data, or time spent rebuilding your windows/software/os and tweaking it back to the way you had it. The HD is the soul of your machine. Everything else fails, you can practically swap a part back in and you're up and running. But the HD fails and you've got a multiday to longer term headache to get things back to "normal". And, for general purposes, they're among the best drives in performance terms, too. Tom's Hardware may rate something else marginally faster, but not by much. And not by enough to drag you away from WD Black. As the old saw goes, once you go Black, you'll never go back. :-D
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5 posts, quality looks good, but looks like you will have to get their bit drive, interesting on the installation, a little more complicated then anticipated. web site may have manual. i would look at that before investing
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If you bought the same unit I did the 83/200 didn't provide the downscan and HDI promised. Had to buy the HDI transducer after the fact. I called Lowrance and asked them about this. The guy I talked to said some people don't want the HDI downscan feature of the unit. I said really? Why would you buy an HDI finder if you didn't really want it? Anyway, no. Hook up the new transponder to your unit and keep the old one if you plan on adding another finder to the bow on a trowling motor etc... I'm thinking of selling the 83/200 on e-bay or my local shopper for the ice fisherman. The angle of the transducer is also important. need to play with it a bit. great unit, enjoy!
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Afternoon Peggy, the kit comes with two drive adapters: an SDS/SDS+ and a hex shaft that is just shy of 11mm across flats. You MUST make sure you use the bits in drill mode only, i.e. turn off hammer mode. Otherwise you risk cracking the bits. You will also find a long 1/4" carbide bit useful so you can bore thick walls from both sides by drilling a 1/4 hole completely through the wall, then core drilling from both ends.Please wear good dust protection. Take care, Mike
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This is a good ? I have not tried to load a shorter brad than 1 & 9/16" I would say that a really short brad would be harder to control. I was able to drive the longer brads into oak trim above 80 psi and even up at 100 psi I did turn the depth wheel to decrease. I would see if you can ask Wen at their website if it would do that short of a brad.
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I've got the Diablo Freud 8" stacked set that can do up to 7/8 with all the shims and spacers. I've used it up to 13/16. It's not the fanciest / best out there, (I think I paid $99 at HD), but it seems to work well. It's my firsts dado set so I don't have anything to compare it to, but the three projects I've worked on so far have come out great.
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At the risk of not double checking my records, my memory tells me that the ONLY issue I had was to "fatten up" the rubber bushings on the top with a bit of shade tree use of vinyl tubing to fit the upper metal mount. In real world practicality, even factory parts need a little "English."BOTTOM LINE: The part will fit and has been working for us quite well.*** What else are you replacing? Get the Gates hoses. Doing a timing belt? Get the great kit offered thru Amazon Check those belts. Cracks? Get the kit. There is not much space on these transverse engines.Best wishes on your repair work. At the risk of not double checking my records, my memory tells me that the ONLY issue I had was to "fatten up" the rubber bushings on the top with a bit of shade tree use of vinyl tubing to fit the upper metal mount. In real world practicality, even factory parts need a little "English."BOTTOM LINE: The part will fit and has been working for us quite well.*** What else are you replacing? Get the Gates hoses. Doing a timing belt? Get the great kit offered thru Amazon Check those belts. Cracks? Get the kit. There is not much space on these transverse... » Read More At the risk of not double checking my records, my memory tells me that the ONLY issue I had was to "fatten up" the rubber bushings on the top with a bit of shade tree use of vinyl tubing to fit the upper metal mount. In real world practicality, even factory parts need a little "English."BOTTOM LINE: The part will fit and has been working for us quite well.*** What else are you replacing? Get the Gates hoses. Doing a timing belt? Get the great kit offered thru Amazon Check those belts. Cracks? Get the kit. There is not much space on these transverse engines.Best wishes on your repair work. « Show Less
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Hello-I am desperately seeking assistance with my SA8300HD in use with my WD My DVR Expander. I have been using the expander successfully with this box for about a year and a half. Recently Time Warner "upgraded" my area (Austin, TX) with the Navigator interface. After that all seemed to be lost. I had over 150 shows recorded for future viewing all gone. Multiple calls and emails later I was given contradictory information. First I was told that the SATA port would no longer work for the expander. Today I was told that it could be used but only for storage when the dvr is full. No instructions on how to use it in that manner (to switch recordings to the expander or back again) and of course the usual TW company line about not supporting any issues with the expander. Any low tech information about how this might work or what to do would be truly appreciated. Also I just kind of tripped onto this forum while looking for information so a response to my email address would get the information to me more directly or at least point me back to this forum. I am on my phone typing this and it doesn't show me the url where I got started. Thanks so much in advance, Kathy (ksilb@austin.rr.com)
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To be honest I love the set!!! But the driver I am still having a really hard time with keeping straight. The irons I have improved big time in my game with the 1"+. But overall I'm happy. Gonna take lessons with new clubs to make sure they are right for me. Sorry I'm not much of help. But goodluck
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Be sure you're using good fresh 40:1 gas mix. If you aren't sure you can always buy some of the premixed stuff from the big box home improvement store. The other big thing is the choke on this is a bit tricky, make sure you pull it all the way out (the stop lever moves up into the running position when the choke is pulled all the way) then after a few pulls slowly press it back in to half choke, that is about 3/4 of the way back in. I start mine with the chain brake off, not sure if thats proper or not.
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Thanks for the confirmation!Off to get it back...WD has a list on their site now.Don't you love when you have plenty of patience?http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3805