I am having a difficult time hooking this up to get it work with a 500 Platinum Bilge pump. 1) Does it need a separate fuse in the wiring? 2) There is no separate auto switch with the bilge pump -- it is built in. Will this switch work with this pump? If so, how is it wired. Thanks. I am having a difficult time hooking this up to get it work with a 500 Platinum Bilge pump. 1) Does it need a separate fuse in the wiring? 2) There is no separate auto switch with the bilge pump... » Read More I am having a difficult time hooking this up to get it work with a 500 Platinum Bilge pump. 1) Does it need a separate fuse in the wiring? 2) There is no separate auto switch with the bilge pump -- it is built in. Will this switch work with this pump? If so, how is it wired. Thanks. « Show Less
1152288
There should be a black wire and 2 brown wires on your pump. the brown striped wire should be the auto wire, black is ground, and the brown solid wire should be the manual on. follow the instructions that came with the switch. you might not notice it working in auto as that pump is designed to check for water for 1sec every 2.5mins
1307841
T he switch has two positions,man/auto,if you'er pump is not automatic (two wires from pump) use the brown wire.the clear thing is a reset fuse.
607342
I was wondering the same thing. Seems like it basically just completes the circuit when activated, so I would think you could cut the plug off and wire it in line with the cable from the battery. I don't really want to be the guinea pig that ruins a brand new float switch though.
1870605
Mine too - the switch on the shifter only seems to have two contact points - Park and Reverse. I tested this switch with an Ohm meter when I installed the shifter and then again a few weeks ago, thinking I missed something on the first go around. All I have been able to determine is that Park allows the ignition circuit to engage and reverse operates the back up lights. Honestly, I am not real thrilled with my Sports Shifter for this and a few other quality issues (like reverse doesn't freely engage - almost have to ratchet into reverse, Can get "Park" to line up with the indicator but then each gear down is misaligned).Sorry wasn't more help Mine too - the switch on the shifter only seems to have two contact points - Park and Reverse. I tested this switch with an Ohm meter when I installed the shifter and then again a few weeks ago, thinking I missed something on the first go around. All I have been able to determine is that Park allows the ignition circuit to engage and reverse operates the back up lights. Honestly, I am not real thrilled with my Sports Shifter for this and a few other quality issues (like reverse doesn't freely engage - almost have to ratchet into reverse, Can get "Park" to line up with the... » Read More Mine too - the switch on the shifter only seems to have two contact points - Park and Reverse. I tested this switch with an Ohm meter when I installed the shifter and then again a few weeks ago, thinking I missed something on the first go around. All I have been able to determine is that Park allows the ignition circuit to engage and reverse operates the back up lights. Honestly, I am not real thrilled with my Sports Shifter for this and a few other quality issues (like reverse doesn't freely engage - almost have to ratchet into reverse, Can get "Park" to line up with the indicator but then each gear down is misaligned).Sorry wasn't more help « Show Less
1065081
I believe it would be fairly simple to wire in a momentary contact (push-button) switch to allow you to manually trigger the pump. This should wire in to the same two terminals that the float switch connects to, and would momentarily bypass the float switch circuit, applying power to the switch motor.
493977
I have seen other options out there but this seems to be the most common type of float switch. I installed this pump myself and it was very easy. Fired right up as soon as I plugged it in so the float swtich works well. Hope this helps.
1464178
Mine went bad and did this same thing, I can hear the relay click but no continuity thru the terminals... Might be that you have a defective unit. Mine lasted a few months pulling about 3 amps at 12 volts for about 5 mins a day. I was running a bilge pump to water my garden from a rain barrel.
1205804
Yes, should work as long as you convert to 12 volt. Think the wires were a little over 2 foot long. Boat is in storage now. Note: When wiring pump pay close attention to + and - connections. Follow the directions because if hooked up wrong it will fry the auto switch.
802559
I would advise you to get a professional to do it. I am fairly handy and decided to do a job myself. I bought what I thought was an exact replacement pump for my A/C system and in the end had to get an A/C technician to install it as it was not the correct one. The replacement did not have the automatic electronic connection (or something like it). He had to do a work around to get it to work. When there are so many models, it is easy to pick the wrong one. Maybe you will have better luck than me.
402576
I can't tell you how to wire your pump, but I can tell you that the float switch changes state from normally open to normally closed (and vice versa) by removing the retainer clip and inverting the float.
1327390
Greg, I have one of these on the front & I don't care a lick for it! Buy a bigger unit if you can! As far as wiring, I just made up a 2 strand wire harness & ran it along the inside edge of my deep v right down to the battery. I then split it & put a connecter for each post. It works like a charm! I'm no Guru when it comes to this kind of stuff either and I made it work. cbmgh@comcast.net if I cabn be of further assistance to you. CB
2062021
I put the pump in and used the same locking ring, why would you need a new one? the old one works fine. Getting the ring on and turned into place is tough, I needed to wedge it down with sticks from the bed to be able to turn it. I jacked the bed up on the tank side... there is stuff on U-Tube on how to do that.Lots of luck. the pump has only 2 slide post instead of 3 but once in works fine. My failure was due to it overheating, I let the tank get almost empty (maybe a gallon fuel left) so the pump could not cool down, now I NEVER let the tank get below 1/4 always having liquid in there to cool it down. I put the pump in and used the same locking ring, why would you need a new one? the old one works fine. Getting the ring on and turned into place is tough, I needed to wedge it down with sticks from the bed to be able to turn it. I jacked the bed up on the tank side... there is stuff on U-Tube on how to do that.Lots of luck. the pump has only 2 slide post instead of 3 but once in works fine. My failure was due to it overheating, I let the tank get almost empty (maybe a gallon fuel left) so the pump could not cool down, now I NEVER let the tank get below 1/4 always having liquid in... » Read More I put the pump in and used the same locking ring, why would you need a new one? the old one works fine. Getting the ring on and turned into place is tough, I needed to wedge it down with sticks from the bed to be able to turn it. I jacked the bed up on the tank side... there is stuff on U-Tube on how to do that.Lots of luck. the pump has only 2 slide post instead of 3 but once in works fine. My failure was due to it overheating, I let the tank get almost empty (maybe a gallon fuel left) so the pump could not cool down, now I NEVER let the tank get below 1/4 always having liquid in there to cool it down. « Show Less
1678382
I wired mine to a button on the dash I ground the pump to the finder and pos to the batt then the horn relay to the button on the dash then to the pos to the fuse box I have the factory horn and the new get the $&@? Out the way horn I hope you find this info helpful Carl
1654806
I agree with Kristina using a Lok-Tite® Air Regulator Gang Valves for Aquariums would be the easiest fix but you would have multiple hoses / only one pump. I suppose you could in a sense chain them together by using a Aquarium Airline Air Tube Tubing Connectors Filters / T-connectors allow you to combine two inputs to create one output. They are excellent for use with dual outlet pumps. I would also recommend looking into a larger set of lights...I am using just one set but it is larger and fits across the back of my tank...no need for another set. Best of Luck!
1646560
I bought one of these switches to go with a different manufacturer other than Wayne, but there's no reason for it to be incompatible. Simply plug your current pump into the replacement switch plug, and then that into your outlet. The vertical switch plug creates a circuit only when the float has risen high enough which then activates your pump; pretty clever. You'll simply need to figure how to mount the switch at the appropriate level in your sump pit. I attached mine to a vertical piece of pvc I have as the discharge pipe. Good luck!
195132
You could try lowering the voltage to reduce pump flow rate. The pump is rated for 6 volts dc. It also works at 4.5 volts dc and appears to pump at a lower flow rate.The pump is absolutely submersible and quite powerful for it's size. In fact, the pump must be submerged to operate, since it is NOT self-priming. The spec notes ...do not let run dry...good luck
775137
I don't think you will have any issue doing this. I haven't installed mine, but if you can run a wire between, you should be fine.BTW: you don't need this Elk Product. I would just go to an electrical shop and tell then you need a relay. Give them the amp rating on the pump and they will size the relay for you. It will be a lot cheaper for you.
1565946
i have done a lot of research on bilge pumps.the #1 insurance claim for sinking is pump failure.if i had only ONE pump say 6 or 7 amps,i would use #14 min with a higher rated fuse than the pump