I wonder what steel it is to be able to hone HRC60+ knife...
2014854
It was a gift for my daughter and went directly to her several states away, so I don't know.
536703
Get the shun whetstone, and youtube some videos on how to use it. Then you're going to need a honing steel, I recommend the shun one because it's designed for their blades... I wouldn't do it any other way because machines and "professional" knives sharpening companies aren't going to take the time to sharpen the knife properly and in the long run you'll shorten your cleavers blade / life .
832734
As others have mentioned, the exact grade of the steel isn't listed anywhere. Given the reasonable price point for this, I doubt it would be anything fancier than a 440 variant or similar. But it must be tempered very well because it definitely holds its edge.
1594329
I am certainly no metallurgist, But this blade is listed as a 4116 "Stainless Steel". So to my knowledge, all Stainless Steel is made up of some type of Carbon and Chromium to prevent metal from getting corroded. Now the exact amounts of Carbon or type, I am not sure of. Lets do a Wiki on this... "4116 Stainless Steel: A fine grained, stainless steel produced by Germany's ThyssenKrupp. Often used for medical devices and food processing, the steels Carbon and Chromium content give it a great degree of corrosion resistance, as well as strength and edge retention. 4116 Stainless Steel has a Carbon Content between 0.42-0.55 and it's Chromium content is between 13.8-15." Hope that helps
785030
Without a doubt...Blade and handle liner is a 440C Stainless which is approx. 80% iron; .95-1.2% Carbon; etc. - This is a high carbon martensitic stainless steel, with moderate corrosion resistance good strength and the ability to obtain and keep excellent hardness (Rc 60) and wear resistance...great for knives (when heat-treated properly.) Bottom line is, steel is a ferrous metal because of its iron content (around 80% in this case), and as such, would easily be noticed by any metal detector. Magnets are only attracted by ferrous metals...try it with a neodymium magnet and it will attach itself in a heartbeat and give a pretty decent fight to remove it from the blade.
1989164
That I am unsure of. I would suggest getting in touch with cold steel on that.
203510
This is more of a honing steel for an already sharp knife. It will put a razor edge on a sharp knife.
1199684
If the blade doesn't have gouges in it, a kitchen honing steel will work fine. If the blade has visual pits, buy a good whet stone and use that.
919740
It depends on applications and usage. From what I've read about the steels, it comes down to Rockwell hardness. Zdp is generally harder which means it will be harder to sharpen if you free hand sharpen. But tougher once you get it down, theoretically you can take your blade down to 15 degrees or even less.And also it comes down to supporting USA or japan. Vg10 is Japanese and Zdp is USA.
1292313
I recommend this... Gatco 10006 Ultimate diamond hone sharpening system There is a little bit of a learning curve. I use the 22 degree slot. You can achieve a professional, polished razor sharp edge every time. Start off with the course hone first. Work it evenly both sides until you establish the 22 degrees. Then move on to the medium for a few and then to the fine hone. Little trick....If you move the hone down the length of the blade (from the grip to the tip) it will make an extremely smooth even SHARP edge. Takes a little longer to do it this way but it's worth it. I recommend this... Gatco 10006 Ultimate diamond hone sharpening system There is a little bit of a learning curve. I use the 22 degree slot. You can achieve a professional, polished razor sharp edge every time. Start off with the course hone first. Work it evenly both sides until you establish the 22 degrees. Then move on to the medium for a few and then to the fine hone. Little trick....If you move the hone down the length of the blade (from the grip to the tip) it will make an extremely smooth even SHARP edge. Takes a little longer... » Read More I recommend this... Gatco 10006 Ultimate diamond hone sharpening system There is a little bit of a learning curve. I use the 22 degree slot. You can achieve a professional, polished razor sharp edge every time. Start off with the course hone first. Work it evenly both sides until you establish the 22 degrees. Then move on to the medium for a few and then to the fine hone. Little trick....If you move the hone down the length of the blade (from the grip to the tip) it will make an extremely smooth even SHARP edge. Takes a little longer to do it this way but it's worth it. « Show Less
1082660
The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck, they are fine blade of the "old school" of manufacture at a reasonable price. The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck,... » Read More The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck, they are fine blade of the "old school" of manufacture at a reasonable price. « Show Less
2254879
Yes, a sharpening steel. It has the round handle in the upper-left. I had to look because the knives come incredibly sharp.
1835453
Yes, the blade is made of Japanese stainless steel called AUS-8. This is a very good steel with superb toughness and good edge holding capabilities. This steel is also fairly easy to sharpen with great corrosion resistance. Check your local knife laws for legality as it varies greatly. It would be a fine last ditch self defense weapon because the blade is pretty good sized, and your hand locks in very well due to a deep finger choil and a blade ramp with good jimping.
116215
Straight from Mora's website, this one is Stainless. Steel Quality Three steel grades are used for knives from Mora of Sweden Stainless steel (S) Knife blades are made of hardenable stainless steel- Sandvik 12C27 (hardened to HRC 56-58), producing knives with extreme strength, long life as well as having high resistance to moisture without rusting. Stainless steel stays sharp much longer than carbon steel and is far less sensitive to rust. Carbon steel (C) Knife blades of high carbon steel can be hardened to HRC 58-60 giving best possible sharpness to lowest price. Knives made from above mentioned steel grades will after some use achieve a dullish grey finish. However, this will not negatively affect the quality of the blade. On the contrary it will somewhat improve the resistance to corrosion. Carbon steel is easy to sharpen, but requires more maintenance when exposed to moist or corrosive environment. Keep the blade clean and dry. Common fruit acids leave for example immediately spots on the blade. Laminated steel (L) This steel grade is unique to knives from Mora of Sweden. The core of the blade is of high carbon steel surrounded by a softer alloyed steel layer. A high hardness (HRC 58-60) can be achieved through hardening, resulting in a knife blade with superior toughness, cutting edge retention and thereby maximum sharpness and long life.The blade can also be bent into a predetermined shape.
1234072
As far as I know, this is a sharpening steel. But I imagine it could be used for honing. It seems rugged enough to use for either. I bought mine for sharpening.
2226702
Buck makes two stock models of their excellent 192. One is a laminate birchwood handle and the other is a high grip type rubber material. I think the 192 is one of the best, all around fixed blade knives on the planet. I build custom knives as a hobby. I can't duplicate their excellent hollow grind, nor the great 420HC steel:)
877844
Sorry, I have no idea what steel it is. I do know that it sharpens easily with a file as does a Ontario military machete.