How much am I suppose to be sanding? I took some 220 grit and then 400. The 400 felt like it was sliding on glass. Also I have an etching design on the bottom of the tub that is lots of circles. Is that a problem?
2031281
I found the directions on the box to be quite poor regarding the suggested sanding. The 220 grit was not nearly enough and to my extreme disappointment the paint started to bubble off in a corner of my shower about 15 min after I completed the process. This in turn resulted in about 3 more days of work (waiting for it to dry completely, sanding again, building back the low spots, applying 2 final coats to even everything out) and my final product still doesn't look as good as it could have if the directions had just said to hit it with a harder grit straight away. Rust-O-Leum customer Service was good about helping with replacing the product -- I feel it was their fault due to the poor directions. I ended up using 4 kits in total. I'd recommend scuffing the whole thing with 80 grit DRY sandpaper. The whole tub will look extremely dull and scratched when you are done but that is the whole point. You need to get every bit of glossy surface and/or soap scum off so that the paint can stick. None of the scratches you make are going to show at all when you are done anyway because the paint self-levels and fills all the scratches in. In summary: Again, don't be afraid to scuff it up good with 80 grit (or 100 would work too). Hope this helps you be successful on the first try. I sure wish I would have been.
777807
I agree with the other comments about sanding and filling first. I would also use the high heat porcelain touch up paint if it is for a stove. There is a porcelain filler and repair I used prior to the paint for my tub. It is made by the same company and is available on Amazon as well. Search for Sheffield Bronze Corp 1454 Porcelain Filler & Repair 1 Oz. on Amazon and you will find it.
1383794
I used a 80 grit recylcled glass "sand." It worked really well. I'm pretty new to this also but I know that grit worked well for me. I also attempted a very course grit that didn't work very well at all.
770277
It will have to be a trial and error process I'm sure. I put on two thin coats and let it sit for twenty minutes. Then I rinse it off and do it a second time the same way. Sometimes, depending on the type of glass, I may have to apply a third time (but this is very rare). I like a heavier etch, however. For a light etch, one time is plenty.
1601719
Actually, I really had to sand a lot to get the varnish off. Then the stain didn't sock up very well. I stained and sanded then stained and sanded several times. Finishing varnishing 3 times and sanding in between.
2095381
I did not use the Ultimate Compound. After a light but even sanding with 3000 grit wet sandpaper. I just used the ultimate polish. Since it was a fairly small job with odd shapes I polished by hand. Three times I think to get the luster I wanted on a high gloss (mirror like) black metallic motorcycle finish. I did not have a problem with swirl marks. Also be careful I discovered some 3000 grit sandpaper is courser than others.
916654
You need to get some more information/research on the different pads and their purpose by grit.1500 and 3000 is what gives mirror finish,but you have to start from lower numbered grit and increase in numbers. When you reach 800 the gra nite should be smooth and has some sheen,if not,you have not spent enough time in polishing,remember to use water
1836326
Didn't apply too much; problem is that you didn't remove it all. The finish should be smooth as silk and super bright. This is a CLEANER and a polish. It takes a lot of work to remove it all. Use a very soft cloth, but you will need to rub hard, and concentrate on one small area at a time. Also, don't let it get wet for 24 hours; it has to "cure". All worth it, though.
579757
Mine was not. Maybe the honey crystalized a bit? If the grittiness looks like honey particles then I would suspect that. If it looks like a darker grit, then I would think you got a bad tube.
583087
I use the pure acetone and put it on a cotton ball then wrap the tip of my finger with tin foil and let it do its thing for about 15-20 minutes then use an orange stick to scrap off the polish it should crackle up when you take the foil off, make sure that you take a buffing block to rough up the top surface of the polish so that the acetone will work. DONT use an emery board type file you may get carried away with filing and damage your nail bed. The buffing blocks sold at Sally supply or any drug store works great just rough enough to take of the top coat off. DONT get anything to abrasive or like I said you may damage your nail bed and believe me that is quite painful! I am assuming this is your first go at the gel polishes? Did you have them done or are you thinking about doing them yourself either way I'm sure you know the steps to applying the polish and really taking the polish off is no big deal just a little time consuming because you can only work on one hand at a time. I hope I helped answer your question if you have any more I would be happy to help.
1303720
There a re several steps. First, the tub must be thoroughly cleaned using a cleaner that removes soap residue and lime deposits. I used CLR and TSP (trisodium phosphate). Then the tub surface must be sanded with 400 grit and then 600 grit sandpaper. Sand the entire tub with the 400 and then do it again with the 600 grit. Rinse off the dust and thoroughly dry the tub. Use masking tape and newspaper to cover anything you don't want painted. Then the rest is applying two coats allowing time to dry between each coat. I wrote a pretty extensive writeup in the reviews section, take a look there. Others have also given some great advice. The bottom line is, budget enough time, be thorough performing each step and don't skip any step, all of them are important.
613184
This does not sound normal. The surface should be fairly smooth. This could mean that the molding process was incomplete or some abrasion took place during handling.
391248
i think a lot.... may be 20 but first i use sand papaer, 400 then 800 and 1500, then some rubing compound with a polisher, and finally the Meguiars for the finish
973435
Just the polishing disks. Just don,t puy too much tilt on the polisher, or you can knock off some of the diamond segments from the dish. I used this on granite tiles to polish the edges. Work your way up to the 3000. Start with rougher grit and move on to the next finer until you get to the finest. Use outside. Water will fly everywhere.
200807
I did not reuse any of the grit from any of the 4 steps. The post tumble solutions are very chalky and thick. The grit is relatively inexpensive so I just disposed of the residue from each step. I have only completed two batches so I am open to anyone else's suggestions.
1915809
Apologies Bonnie, I've never tried to do that. Guess I'm not thinking of trying to save money. I polish for commercial purposes and inlay my Art work. My polishers run 7 days a week and stop only when changing Grits or pulling finished items, Bone, Stone, Ivory, Operculum or raw Jewels :-)
416438
Hi, My contractor used "standard" sheet rock screen, perhaps equal to 180 grit. Even using extension pole, he was able to keep a smooth surface; no gouges anywhere. As I recall his regular sanding head (not the heavy duty Sand & Kleen head) had the same amount of padding. Sorry, I'm no help. Good luck with your project.