Sorry, I'm a bit puzzled. What's the difference between -4.0 and -4? I'm from China and 400 degrees of myopia. Should I choose -4.0 or -4 or 4?
82129
I think -4.0 and -4 are the same. If you are near-sighted, you should choose negative.
1177291
Depends on what your prescription is. The camera has a built in -3.0 to +1.0 diopter adjustment. You want to buy the one that will allow you to match your prescription.E.g. If you wear +2 prescription, get the +2 and dial it down by 1. You would only need the - if you have to go further than the -3 that is built in. However, I have found that I do not use the diopter. When I have my glasses off, the images on the LCD are blurry. So I shoot with my glasses or contacts, so I can still view the images on the LCD.Hope this helps you decide.Chris
2120275
I own both lenses, but the 12-40 (24-80 in 35mm terms) with its constant f2.8 aperture and 24mm viewing angle of 84º makes it more useful to me. Statistically and chart-wise, I'm certain the 12-40 would beat the 14-45, but I've found the latter to be quite competent when used. "Mind-blowing" would not be accurate. You'd be hard-pressed to see a visual difference (unless you're an extreme pixel-peeper).
717780
Hello L., Unfortunately, these do only come in negative diopters. We do have -8 but not +8. Sincerely, Roy Lazarus Trivillage.com
1216096
I have different sizes for different areas. I have been using the 1.0 for my face, 0.5 for around the eyes and 2.0 for body areas. I hope this helps. I actually did my face last night.
1498256
There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm terms, which is more than a 300mm lens on the D3200. There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm... » Read More There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm terms, which is more than a 300mm lens on the D3200. « Show Less
65715
I ordered the mask for my girlfriend who is near-sighted. She gave me a copy of her prescription. Under the "Dist" part of her prescription, sphere is -8.5 which is the number I used when I placed my mask order. I am assuming "DV" is distance, and "NV" is near. If so, I believe you would enter the "DV" number. The mask worked great for my girlfriend. She said she could see better out of the mask than her glasses. Hope that helps, Brian H.
1509181
I recently had cataract surgery and I am now farsighted. Standard 5X magnification didn't help at all, so I went for the highest one I could find. If a 5X doesn't work at all for you, go for the highest magnification.
766794
Blue lenses are excellent for all types of light. We currently have the +2.5 in stock but not the +3. Hope that helps.
523655
I would say EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 USM IS. You get greater bokeh at f/2.8. Although the weather sealing and better construction of the 24-105 is pretty sweet too.Edit: I forgot to mention that f/2.8 is better than f/4 in low light. But I think you know that already =)
2041777
First, size. The 1.2 is huge! And the reason is also the second thing, optics. Unless you have a huge need, budget or ego, don't go 1.2. The 1.4 is amazing but the price may make you feel insecure, like it's not "good enough".
107802
That equation is correct... it is called spherical equivalent. With a -3.00 sphere and -3.25 cylinder, your spherical equivalent is -4.50. Keep in mind this will give you pretty decent vision - good enough to see at a reasonable distance, but this will not be equal to a full spectacle prescription. I am an optometrist.
21264
Honestly there isn't a big deal between -3.50 and -3.00 and you can get either one and you will see grate. But if you are still not satisfied go for 2 pairs of one -3.00 and -3.50 and just switch lenses and this way you have to pairs with perfect match
40105
The 1.4 is going to give you better bokeh (that beautiful blurry light) and a shallower depth of field. It also lets more light in. Hope that helps!
498047
Contact Splaqua. I have a smaller deviation in my correction , and in this situation it is suggested to go with the lower number. I know that Splaqua, and probably others, will help with getting the proper correction for each eye in circumstances that call for it.
1588421
I purchased the 1.4X, after doing research on the results of both products. From what I read, the images stay "sharper" at the edges, with the 1.4x. I have used the 1.4X, and have been very pleased with the results. I do intend to purchase the 2x, understanding that the clarity may not be as good.
64369
Because of the difference I would suggest buying 1 pair in each of the diopters you need and swapping out the lenses. For me the difference was only 1 point so I went up a half. They've worked out great.