Has anyone concerned themselves with the way these wires just dangle out back of the panel? Wondering how to secure this better. Tried calking but the wires just roll around. Cool panel with a cheap connection.
2023633
Yes, it does seem like a cheap connection. But probably adequate for most applications. If you need something tougher, there are a variety of things that you could do on your own. A Google search on "cable panel strain relief grommet" shows a number of options.
2053762
same problem, im sure it is due to the sensor that reads the return air temp. my wire has moved, getting erratic readings too. long yellow wire in the unit, not sure where it should be mounted though
1237741
I wanna say check wire diagram , look for wire labeled "park" (or similar). I will look into this issue for ya, if not resolved already.
888278
YES-- you just have close your eyes when you do it--unless you can find another way to access your backup wires---I used an Epoxy putty to pack the hole around the wire---made it absolutely water tight, and really not that visible----hope this helps john b
263937
Sidney, I wonder if you tried it? If so, how did it work for you? I am considering the same setup. I cannot run a wire from the inside wall to the outside wall so I was thinking simply mounting the units on opposite faces of the door, hiding the wire inside the door itself. (sorry if this comment is entered in the wrong place)
443489
It might be a little tight. I mounted the display on the mirror of an MDX and put the module in the trunk and there couldn't have been more than a foot of slack left. You could always splice the wires, it's inside the car. The hardest part is to figure out how you are going to run the wires from the module to the backup light and from the module to the sensors. I had to extend the length of the wire from the module to the backup light, it's just low voltage, light gauge wire. I cut up an old cell phone charger, worked great.
715648
We haven't tried that. We have it installed and have been very pleased with it. It should be easy to disconnect the wires in the unit and take the unit, bring it back and hook it back up. That's what we plan to do if we move. We have had ours a long time.
1335745
You can cut off the connectors and splice on more wire. Use the adhesive-lined heat shrink crimp connectors to keep water out of the wire. This will make the panel more difficult to service later if there is a problem.
1298999
in this case if u open the back u will see that the wire came loose , i had the same problem ... although the wire is too short to repair .
1969229
Sure,i wrapped it ith wire then used electrical tape tohold the place. Ikept them evenly. Spaced, kids use it all year,havent done a thing to it for the lasy2 years,and it gets 20 below here and they still play! Hpod :-) luck,the pollack
483771
I wish I could help. Im having the exact same problem. We recently moved and I tried to pack it back on the bag it came in and ended up bending the wires. Good luck though!
2105350
There is a base port hole that extends a little out from the plane of the back panel, which would make the speaker sit off of the wall by about 1/4" (a bit less), and there is the indentation for the screw in posts to connect the wires. The thickness of the back panel must be at least 1/2", could be more like 3/4", however, and would allow a bracket to be mounted (screwed into the back itself). I have used screws that go into the back about 5/8", and went in solidly and made a strong connection. I hope this helps. If you think it would help, I could take a pic and send it. Let me know. There is a base port hole that extends a little out from the plane of the back panel, which would make the speaker sit off of the wall by about 1/4" (a bit less), and there is the indentation for the screw in posts to connect the wires. The thickness of the back panel must be at least 1/2", could be more like 3/4", however, and would allow a bracket to be mounted (screwed into the back itself). I have used screws that go into the back about 5/8", and went in solidly and made a strong connection. I hope this helps. If you think it would help, I could take a pic and send... » Read More There is a base port hole that extends a little out from the plane of the back panel, which would make the speaker sit off of the wall by about 1/4" (a bit less), and there is the indentation for the screw in posts to connect the wires. The thickness of the back panel must be at least 1/2", could be more like 3/4", however, and would allow a bracket to be mounted (screwed into the back itself). I have used screws that go into the back about 5/8", and went in solidly and made a strong connection. I hope this helps. If you think it would help, I could take a pic and send it. Let me know. « Show Less
1500023
I would recommend using 12 gauge wire to minimize resistive loss which could effect how the regulator on the back of the panel functions. This wire is too stiff and heavy for direct connection to the panel, so I recommend adding a foot of 18 gauge wire to the panel end of the 12 gauge wire.
1114297
Run the wire through the studs, this is a very low voltage...less than a few c batteries together. hiding them is best and easiest if you have the wall avail...buy a long drill bit...piece of cake
1342076
@ SummerOneThanks for your input on this. Seems like the newer manufactured units are less prone to buzzing than the older ones. Also, seems like the buzzing on your first one was caused by the damage if it was a really loud buzz that you were hearing.I'm getting my panel replaced in January and will let y'all know if mine stops buzzing or not.
839688
As I remember, the wires are sticking out from the enclosure. In any case... Wiring these is really simple.
412104
Contact manufacture of your panels on what the output of both panels would be relative to your Volt/Amp requirements. It has been many years since I used Ohm's law! Good luck! (my connectors are still in the bag, as I had the same question,I received no response when I made my inquiry)