Was is the input amp rating? Looking to use this for a 24v military application but am curious if the 200+ input amps woud kill the inverter. thanks
2022152
You can have 200+ input amp POTIENTAL, but the inverter will only draw the current required by the load. So having plenty of input amp potiential is a good thing. Once the load is too much for the inverter, it shuts down. Also there is a 25 amp fuse that limits the amount of current drawn from the 24 volt supply. Load watts are roughly AC Amps X 110 VAC = Watts, and Start-up is usually double that. So this unit can handle 400 watts continuous with surge capability to 800 watts.
2022153
I promise you, this inverter cannot handle 200 Amps. It's output rating is around 4 Amps (400w/110v=3.6A) at 75% efficiency, the input current would be around 45 Amps (400w/12v=33.3A /0.75=45A).
157430
My grid tie 300 watt inverter is connected to two 150 watt 22 volt panels. Working just fine at that voltage. The previous one burnt out with three panels connected to it. Apparently the voltage and amperage had increased when at full sun. I would consider de-rating all voltage values to 80 percent on any inverter you purchase.
1716346
You might want to try very low gauge (means high capacity) wires from the battery to the inverter. I run a refrigerator off mine without any trouble.
2090923
I would recommend at least 4 BIG batteries all directly wired to the inverter. Also the "start" load seems a bit light (10.8A), that's a capacitor start motor, and I bet it's drawing close to 2000 watts, and if there is a weak link in using an inverter, it's that batteries are not good at providing a Lot of power for an instant. I had a similar issue, and after re-wiring my battery bank to supply 4 wires to the inverter, the problem was resolved. (I have a bank of 10 Very large deep cycle batteries) The inverter will shut down, if the voltage drops below 10.5 Volts. So another thing I would do is only try this, when the batteries are fully charged. (12.8 volts or higher) Good luck. I would recommend at least 4 BIG batteries all directly wired to the inverter. Also the "start" load seems a bit light (10.8A), that's a capacitor start motor, and I bet it's drawing close to 2000 watts, and if there is a weak link in using an inverter, it's that batteries are not good at providing a Lot of power for an instant. I had a similar issue, and after re-wiring my battery bank to supply 4 wires to the inverter, the problem was resolved. (I have a bank of 10 Very large deep cycle batteries) The inverter will shut down, if the voltage drops below 10.5 Volts. So another... » Read More I would recommend at least 4 BIG batteries all directly wired to the inverter. Also the "start" load seems a bit light (10.8A), that's a capacitor start motor, and I bet it's drawing close to 2000 watts, and if there is a weak link in using an inverter, it's that batteries are not good at providing a Lot of power for an instant. I had a similar issue, and after re-wiring my battery bank to supply 4 wires to the inverter, the problem was resolved. (I have a bank of 10 Very large deep cycle batteries) The inverter will shut down, if the voltage drops below 10.5 Volts. So another thing I would do is only try this, when the batteries are fully charged. (12.8 volts or higher) Good luck. « Show Less
235036
yes it wiil , it's a good inverter I have all kinds of eletronces hooked to it . the only thing I had to do is add a onther battery , every 6 mounth was replacing the altnator on the truck , good now
2228315
I've been running one for about a year now, no problems except I was using the load output to control some outside lighting (on at dusk, off at dawn) and it seemed to get confused and was turning the lights on and off randomly. I disconnected it and let it sit for a day and then reconnected it and it has been working correctly since. I am running a 100 WATT 12V panel into it, are you staying within the maximum input power and voltage levels (12v/260W or 24v/520W) specified?
1481498
The description of the device on Amazon indicated an input range of 12V DC to 40V DC. There were no instructions that came with the device. My converter is installed in my aircraft and the input voltage could be at times, higher that 24V but not much.
1238813
I don't think the inverter can be hooked up 24v but your system should be 2-12v batteries that you should be able to get 11 v to power the inverter. Check with your mechanic to verify before you purchase...
2193075
Greg:I am very pleased with the inverter I have. I have the 24volt unit and my panels are wired, two in series to get 24 volt, back to trunkline to the inverter and then to grid. This utilises all the voltage they put out. If you are connecting to batteries your charger will hold the panels at 12volts and you will need wire up for 12 volt.calvinm@galaxycable.net
2133560
It uses a 200 AMP ANL Fuses. Make sure that the lead wires to the inverter are no longerthen 4 feet and are at least 2/0 (two aught) wire in thickness. Use two heavy duty marine gradebatteries in parallel maintaining a longer drain@ 12 volts.
1123421
115-230 VAC is a selection, not a range. So if you select 115 VAC then you have selected the correct output for this inverter as it is a nominal 120 VAC inverter. With a range between 7.5 amps and 15 amps being drawn by the compressor, the inverter is just a bit shy of what you require. Another big problem will be the stoutness of the battery you are using. From a static 12 VDC source (stand alone battery), converting it to 120 VAC, drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,800 watts. That is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. From an active 14.5 VDC source (a 12 Volt battery driven by a alternator), converting it to 120 VAC and drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,740 watts. Again, that is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. But here is the catch, an AC inverter is never 100% efficient, so the calculations stated above are actually worse. Could be 20% off or more 'off' due to inefficiency. Technically, you could run your compressor for a few moments without damage to the inverter, but this inverter would not be the proper selection for your work load. I would select something in the 2,400 watt range for the continuous power required that you seek. This would give you 20 amps minus 20% inefficiency giving you 16 amps of reliable current. So 2,500 watts, with the ability to surge to 5,000 watts momentarily (allowing a 100% overage of current drawn on start up for the motor of the compressor) should fit your bill. All units will be very happy with each other (provided you have a robust battery, or battery bank). An "8D" battery would serve you well (but pretty heavy at 161 lbs each). Do not forget "voltage drop" that happens, and make sure you use HEAVY cables to the battery; perhaps 2/0 pure copper (not copper clad) cables. This will keep your input high. It is worth the expense (and you only buy them once).
1918070
For a 24V system this would be acceptable. The problem with this controller is with in the loading of it. The out put to a load (lights, inverter, etc.) comes on after there is no light to the panel.
414935
Yep...that is correct. It really doesn't draw any current under no-load. There are no noises, nothing...just the red LED lights for voltage or watts. I have used several different inverters and this one is my absolute favorite...it is a beast and built extremely well. No worries...it is a safe buy. Have had mine running continuously for about 7 months now.
937543
Sounds like the 3000 should work fine! I've found this inverter to be very capable!!
511257
I would go to blue sea's tech department and ask them. Since it is for a 48 volt inverter i would assume the amp draw won't be to high and it should be OKbut if there was some kind of short it could quickly overload the system and cause a fire/damage best to check with the manufacture on this one
409909
I run 2 Servers in my home office (I am an IT Consultant), plus the rest of my home on this unit. About 5 months ago we lost power for 48 hours and we ran the generator using Natural Gas. I had a couple of hiccups with some of my UPS's due to voltage fluctuation. I think it has to do with the sensitivity of the units. My older UPS units did not have an issue. I have found out from others in my field that this is common with newer units. I have APC older units and they did beep every once in awhile, but the equipment stayed on all 48 hours. The newer units did not and once the battery was used up, the equipment turned off. I don't want to give out model #'s because just because mine worked, I can't guarantee it will work for you. Once it gets warmer around here I am going to try and put surge suppressors in front of the newer units to see if that helps. If not I would try to put cheap UPS's in front of the High Capacity units. Hope that helps. BTW, I have my generator connected using a manual transfer switch and when I lost power, I was able to be on generator power in under 3 minutes.... Power went out... I went outside, removed the cover, turned on the Natural Gas, turned the key... That was it. I use a battery tender always connected to the unit so the battery is always fully charged. Total install including the generator was under $2600.
979217
Hello data guy, This converter has matched the voltage and sine wave of what we normally get from the powercompany. Before purchasing, check with your power and insurance company about any liability on your part.One note of caution. My first try connecting two 250 watt panels was a disaster. The voltage was 60 vdc inputand the electronics couldn't handle it. Worked a short time then fried. Keep input dc voltage down.