I have a dorm sized mini fridge. Can this be plugged into the same outlet or will it be too much wattage?
2049999
You can probably use the same outlet and use the low wattage burner without trouble. The high wattage burner should not be used with any other piece of equipment on it. As a precaution, I have the double burner in a circuit breaker and turn everything off or reconnect other items if I want to use the high wattage burner. I don't plug it directly into an wall outlet just to be sure I don't blow the circuit breaker. Be cautious if you have older wiring or don't know exactly how things are set up.
2050000
Unless you place both eyes on max heat at the same time' there should not be a problem
2050001
If you have up to date wiring with a grounded 3 prong receptacle, then I'd say that it will be safe. Always always keep it unplugged when not in use. There could be a time when you are in a hurry and think that you have the controls completely off and they aren't. so make it a habit of unplugging any small appliance.
1656175
It would be excellent as a refrigerator for a dorm room as I have it about 2 feet from the head of my bed and I sleep fine. Just set it to 3 and forget about it.
1915735
I think it would depend on the fridges amperage draw, but if intended for use with a car lighter, this should work. I use mine to run a Coleman cooler that acts as a fridge. No prob so far.
904134
Mine will run a small 700 watt air unit in my shop just fine and it ran my old refrigerator just fine but it will not run the new energy star fridge. The new fridge would not even try to turn on. I guess it looks at the input to see if it is good and gave this inverter a fail.
2154169
That depends on the current the refrigerator draws. Being 16AWG this is not real thick. Most wires inside your walls are 12AWG and some may be 14AWG (smaller number is thicker and can carry more current). While the outlet may supply 20 amps (12AWG) or 15 amps (14AWG), this cord can only carry about 13 amps before the risk of overheating and electrical fire is present. If your refrigerator requires more than about 10 amps I would not use this cord: it uses an AC induction motor which when it turns on will spike the current over its rated maximum (you can see this if your lights dim when a large appliance like the AC turns on). While one or two little spikes will not damage a cord, over the years it could weaken it and cause it not to be able to carry as much current, again increasing the risk of electrical fire. Check the manual or the sticker on the back of your refrigerator. If it says it needs more than 10 amps (or 1200 watts) I would opt for a thicker extension cord, preferably a 12 AWG cord.
935856
It all depends on the total wattage of the fridge and lights you are trying to operate at one time. Mine can handle a small freezer and a couple lights.
967365
From what I've read from the manufacturer, you would need the yeti 400 to power a mini fridge. It is a larger sized machine.
226143
This is not a refrigerator is all I can say. They do make 12v refrigerators which are costly but actually use about a third of the power this does. I would not recommend this for your application. Maybe for a vacation cabin for a weekend. Translate: if you never actually have to live with the setup.
392237
Depends on the total wattage draw. A fridge is typically 800-1200 and will peak when the compressor kicks on. Air conditioners will draw a lot of power when they kick on as well. I wouldn't expect to run both at the same time on a 2400 watt continuous and 3200 peak model.
682472
Shouldn't be a problem so long as you don't exceed the maximum wattage the unit can support
1639303
I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are split over two or more circuits. I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are... » Read More I hooked mine up to my regular household voltage----120V. (although yours may be 110, 115 or 120). When connecting it to an existing circuit, make sure the total expected wattage load won't exceed your circuit amperage multiplied by the volts. Example: On a 15 Amp circuit, with 120 volts, I have a capacity of 1800 watts. If I'm running my Waste King at 450 Watts (4.5 Amps) while my standard fridge is powering up at 350 watts , and my toaster or microwave are running at 1100 watts, and my lights are on, I'm likely to flip my breaker. That's why the electrical load of most kitchens today are split over two or more circuits. « Show Less
16618
Hi Kathy,I think that would depend on the size of the refrigerator. If it's a small hotel or mini-bar like critter, then sure. However, a full-size fridge would be too much for it. My guess is it would eventually overheat the housing of the cable and cause a fire. Better to get one with a heavy duty rating at Home Depot or other outlet like that, or better yet, just plug your fridge into the wall using it's own cord. If you can't get the thing close enough to the outlet to do that, the heavy-duty cord is your next best option. You'll sleep better at night. ;)
445337
none of the nomad solar panels produce enough wattage to run one of these alone, you would need one of their power packs (sherpa 100 or yeti 150 minimum) to power this, but not for longer than a day or 2 probably without some solar panels(30w to slow the drain on the battery, 60w to actually charge the battery and run the fridge) to charge it during the daytime. specs say this fridge averages 35 watts
2280032
Which Wagan are you referring to? If the fridge, I would think not. Limit of the Bestek is 3 amps; the fridge I think draws 5.
909003
It will run a full size fridge although its not a sine wave inverter and some say the motor in the fridge may not run properly... The fan is like a computer fan you can here it but its not annoying and my inverter is located in the basement so we never hear it....
909001
The secret is the cabling, 0 AWG, it runs my fridge, which however, is very small dorm room type, but I am sure it will run any size. It will run my air conditioner, albeit it is also small, drawing only 4.5 A. This thing will run anything, if you have the proper cables. It runs, for instance, my 15 A Mitre Saw. One of the best purchases I ever made. No fan noise, none, when running a moderate load. It is summer here in the Baja, so things heat up, and it is comforting to hear a well-disciplined fan cooling the beast occasionally. Beautiful job.
1630672
Not sure, maybe you can find the specs online. I have a crappy room with crappy grounding and LOTS of musical and other electronics and this fridge was whacked into the 120 AC and didn't even make the lights burp when it went on. Hope this helps!!