Question for users....I want to purchase this to power a duct fan to increase the temp in my very cold bathroom (60 ish when the rest of the house is 70). Will this make that big of a temperature difference, or should I just install a wall heater? My plan was to couple this with a 6" booster fan @ 250CFM. Thanks for any thoughts from users. Question for users....I want to purchase this to power a duct fan to increase the temp in my very cold bathroom (60 ish when the rest of the house is 70). Will this make that big of a temperature... » Read More Question for users....I want to purchase this to power a duct fan to increase the temp in my very cold bathroom (60 ish when the rest of the house is 70). Will this make that big of a temperature difference, or should I just install a wall heater? My plan was to couple this with a 6" booster fan @ 250CFM. Thanks for any thoughts from users. « Show Less
919200
We added 400 square feet to our kitchen and booster fans to two of the three ducts. The duct Air stat switch is very sensitive. Often when the booster fans come on the drop the pressure in the main duct drops enough that the Air stat switch turns the booster fans off. After cycling once or twice the booster fans stay on. A better solution would be to some how wire the booster fans to turn on and off with the furnace fans.
92170
Yes, It works well in my house. I installed 2 boosters fans controlled by a duct stat in my up stairs bedrooms. Fans are a little noisy, but worth it.
919201
The answer is yes, that the booster fan with the switch should increase the temperature in your bathroom up to the temperature of the rest of the house, whatever you have that set for. Of course if you want a heater to back up against, this will not provide that type of heat. I had a den addition that was always chilly and the same setup has made it a comfortable room now.
919202
It works for me with a Can Max Fan Mixed Flow Inline Fan, 6-Inch 334 Cubic Feet Per Minute fan #340410. The speed is adjustable and the noise isn't to bad compared to the flow it gives. I have left it on all the time to circulate air and equalize the temperature in the that room compared to the remainder of the house.
1954807
Joan,I measured the first of the two heaters I bought using a Kill-A-Watt meter. It said 7.5 Amps on Low and 12.5 Amps on high, so that would be 900 Watts and 1500 Watts on high. The fan always is on "high", which to me is a benefit because the volume of air is the same, just warmer or cooler. Or unheated, if you use the fan-only setting.Martt
247316
We love ours, since our bedroom is in the basement. If you use the timer it does shut down the fan and it sits in "wait" mode until the time you have it set to turn back on. You do need to be certain it is hooked up to a hose to drain continuously or this feature will not work. We use our for mostly heat in the winter and the a/c in the summer. But you do have the option of treating like a fan, although I'm not sure why you would want to...I believe a regular fan would e cheaper on your electric bill.
695702
Works great! Mine (120's) are on 24/7 and they are so low wattage it may cost me $5.00 a month if that to run them. I have had mine running for about a year now and their still going strong. The plug / Speed Control actually controls 2 fans even though each 1 comes with the plug. I have mine set up in my closed glass door entertainment center where my 1,000 watt receiver surround sound, cable box, x-box, CD player, etc. are located. I put one at the back bottom blowing in and one at the top blowing out. I have displaced 25 to 30 degrees of heat. It would get to 120 - 125 degrees inside before, and now the hottest I have measured is around 90 - 95 degrees. Will surely help the life span of your equipment and well worth the little additional cost for the electricity.
849010
Most systems must be installed by a licensed contractor and have a permit to collect the rebates. This insures that the inspector has verified that the system was installed correctly. If you must have a 14 SEER, then getting a 15 SEER would be best to make sure that you at least meet the standards. 16 SEER will meet those standards, and save even more energy, yet is much more expensive. Sometimes a 14 SEER system will not meet the 14 SEER rating due to smaller air ducts, or other problems. Also how many square feet are you trying to heat and cool? What state are you in? This will help verify if the system is sized properly. Also do you plan on installing back up heater? If so what size? I disconnected my 20 KW electric heater when installing my 4 ton heat pump. For back up heat, I will use one section of the 20 KW, and disconnected 1/2 of that, giving me a primary 5 KW electric heat back up. Then have a 10 minute time delay, so that the other 10 KW heater contactor will energize to provide another 34,000 Btu's of heat when it is calling for heat more than 10 minutes. I could have wired the 5 KW heater to run at the same time as the heat pump is in defrost, however I decided I would rather have 5-7 minutes of cold air and save the energy. My 4 ton heat pump makes about 48,000 BtuH of heating, at 55F outside air temp, then will defrost for about 2-3 minutes per hour (at 55F outside air temp). During defrost, it reverses to cooling cycle, and will blow out cold air (if it is 70F inside the home, it will blow out 50F air for a few minutes). By running a 5 KW electric heater ($0.50 to $0.75 per hour - depending on local electric costs) this can warm the air to about 65F while in defrost. I am just cheap and want to save the money! If my family complains to much, I might have to run the 5 KW heater during defrost.
34702
The flow through this unit would probably be too large to be used this way. A better choice might be the "Panasonic FV-10NLF1 WhisperLine 120 CFM In-Line Fan, 4-Inch Duct" unit Amazon sells. I use the 120 cfm unit as an exhaust fan on a switch for a single bathroom. I use the 240 cfm unit as a vent fan on a timer for four rooms. You will probably need to connect the power to this unit through the furnace controls so that it is switched on and off with the furnace. Don't mount the fan too close to the furnace to avoid temperatures over 140 degrees.
516853
Hi,I know I'm a bit late answering u but I can't really tell u if it could handle 140 degrees tem..I can tell u that its a great inline duct fan..Also it does handle a huge amount of cold air running through it...I hope this helps
372342
700W on low,1500W on high. /15'x24' room heating up in about 1 hour from 65 F to 78F/ note if your gonna point toward coldest wall set-700w, would be enough to set - auto overnight- it will keep room comfy /experiment with settings/ . bathroom 12' x 14' getting 60F to 85F in 10 min ,set on high = 1500W. ;)
1003373
Don't know, I installed it in the attic last summer, put it in-line in the ductwork feeding one room because it was not cool enough, it work great as it forces more cold air into that room now. I did install a dimmer switch in the room that it supplied so I could regulate the speed and turn the duct fan off when NOT in use. I think the amperage was less than 15amps, because I used a 15amp dimmer switch mounted in the wall. After I installed the duct fan in the duct, I wrapped everything with insulation, so can NOT see the UL rating plate any longer. You should be able to Google the product name and find some info.... Don't know, I installed it in the attic last summer, put it in-line in the ductwork feeding one room because it was not cool enough, it work great as it forces more cold air into that room now. I did install a dimmer switch in the room that it supplied so I could regulate the speed and turn the duct fan off when NOT in use. I think the amperage was less than 15amps, because I used a 15amp dimmer switch mounted in the wall. After I installed the duct fan in the duct, I wrapped everything with insulation, so can NOT see the UL rating plate any longer. You should be able to Google the product... » Read More Don't know, I installed it in the attic last summer, put it in-line in the ductwork feeding one room because it was not cool enough, it work great as it forces more cold air into that room now. I did install a dimmer switch in the room that it supplied so I could regulate the speed and turn the duct fan off when NOT in use. I think the amperage was less than 15amps, because I used a 15amp dimmer switch mounted in the wall. After I installed the duct fan in the duct, I wrapped everything with insulation, so can NOT see the UL rating plate any longer. You should be able to Google the product name and find some info.... « Show Less
1232145
Fans are always better than just a heat sink. You just have to keep an eye on the dust collection of your unit. If the fan gets clogged, it will freeze up, and then burn up. It happened to me once...
1198587
This fan will work very well for that room! Using mine in a slightly smaller area (132 sf) and only run on low speed to circulate AC from ceiling in the warmest room in house. I believe you will be happy.
1227023
It's unclear. The fan speed doesn't vary but the manuel suggests that high is to heat the room quickly then turn on low to maintain the temperature meaning that power(watts) should be reduced to the heating element. I use mine to heat my bathroom on cold mornings and in that capacity it's priceless. In a bigger room I would make sure it's pointed in your general direction. I hope this helps a little.
1855084
Hi Kathryn: I ordered my Hunter 60 inch ceiling fan to cool my HOT cathedral living room ceiling. the temperature decreased 10 degrees over night. I did not have a light fixture on my cathedral ceiling. I paid 2 professional electricians to crawl up into my attic and install the necessary wiring. The fan has a remote (real convenient). My ceiling fan does not have a light. I did not want a light fixture on my fan. I am perfectly satisfied with my Hunter fan. I have a ceiling fan in every room, except the bathroom . Saves me a lot of money on my power bill. HUNTER is the best ceiling fan. Hi Kathryn: I ordered my Hunter 60 inch ceiling fan to cool my HOT cathedral living room ceiling. the temperature decreased 10 degrees over night. I did not have a light fixture on my cathedral ceiling. I paid 2 professional electricians to crawl up into my attic and install the necessary wiring. The fan has a remote (real convenient). My ceiling fan does not have a light. I did not want a light fixture on my fan. I am perfectly satisfied with my Hunter fan. I have a ceiling fan in every room, except the bathroom . Saves me a lot of money on my power bill. HUNTER is the best ceiling fan.
44037
I bought a cheap fan and put it in the back of the unit to circulate the air. It dropped the temp about 6%'s. I bought an USB fan with a power converter and ran the wires into the fridge between the door. http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Powered-Desktop-SY-ACC65055/dp/B006L6ZL8I/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XSBKX56VKJV58VX1VF7
319576
Where do you live? Has it now turned warmer there? One of the last times I used my heater, about a month ago, it only ran for about 15 minutes and then turned itself off. I happen to have a couple small thermometers in my bedroom, so I noticed the temp was warmer than the 68 setting I had the unit turned onto. I did use it a couple times after that in the bathroom which is on a very shady side of the house and the heater worked like normal. So I think it's just smart enough to know when it's not needed. This is just a guess on my part.
1090580
It limits. I have a device that pulls to much and it just stays warm, while only drawing max of 6 watts from the wall. I calculated this at 1.17 amp, which is as advertised. Used it a couple days at max (waiting for the 3 amp unit to arrive) and it didn't crap out.
144899
I would not recommend buying it for a window. First of all, it's too small to be effective in any window. Second, it is meant to "boost" airflow from your forced air furnace and/or central air conditioner. The fan is not powerful enough to move air on it's own. They, I installed two of them, weren't powerful enough to make ANY difference (not even 1 degree) in my basement.