Does it require timer control unit, or can you just plug it into wall and it runs full throttle all day? Also would this be ok for a 20 gallon?
908751
All it requires is an outlet, mine runs 365/24 until it stops. My is in a 15 or 16 gal so it would be fine.
908752
You can just plug it in and it goes. It can be hooked up to a timer or wave controller but doesn't have to be. I have it in a 29g and it works great. Think it will be fine in a 20g.
908753
It can be directly plugged into the outlet or plug it to a wave controller. Timer is not needed for this. And yes. It might work in a 20 gal but you might need more than 1, at least 2 of them.
908754
Yes it will run on its own. I use one in my salt mix bin, been running it about 4 months now nonstop.
79544
The timer on the pump does not perform an on/off function (there is only a manual on/off button). The controls on the pump only control desired rpm and runtime for 3 easily programmable buttons. Once the pump starts it goes to program1 rpm and runs for the specified time, switches to program2 rpm and time then switches to program3 rpm...and stays indefinitely until there is a manual stop or power interruption (timer, etc). An external timer must be used to perform scheduled run times. I do not have a cover and keep my pool open year round. I recently had a motor failure on my 1.5 superpump and decided to upgrade to the VS once I ran the simple math and convinced myself of the payback period. I have my pump controlled by an intermatic pf1102t (note: previously had no timer). Now I only run the pump in winter below freezing temp, and at min flow...before I was forced to run a 1.5 pump. I'm extremely satisfied with the new setup and enjoy saving $$$. Do the math, buy a VS...and definitely keep your timer.
1065438
I run this pump for about 20 hrs a day at 1750 RPM. It uses less than 200watts. The old pump ran for 12 hrs a day and used around 1300watts. 200x21 = 4200. 1300x12 = 15600. Huge difference. My elec bills have been much lower. Also I have had no algae problem at all this summer, and still used less chemicals. I think it's because the water is constantly moving and not sitting still for as long. I have been very happy that I made the change to variable speed.
568139
No..It is designed to turn on and off at temperature set points. There isn't any way to control the "time" when it hits a set point. The only time setting is in-between the low shut off point and the high turn on point. If you were heating in a refrigerator with an element then it shuts off it is here you have control of the time..(it's called controlling the "short cycle")..after it shuts off there will be some residual heat at first then it will be absorbed or dissipate in short time...like 8-10minutes. So you set the "lag" time for like 15minutes, so then the controller will not check the temperature for 15min. THEN turn off if it needs to cool down more. That is the only time control in this controller. The only way to work in your case is you would need to place a 10min. timer between your controller and the pump. the problem being is you'll need a timer that re-sets after it shuts off..Not easy,but not impossible either!
1608515
I did. Just need to use a diode between 86 and 85 to keep the volts from killing fish. But I would use delay relay like (SRD-12VDC-SL-C NC Triggered Time Timer Delay Power Relay Module 12V DC). It keeps it from getting into that loop of the bottom of the container to the sump.
1086954
You may run it at low, medium, or high continuously or set a time to shut off. Well made unit. The timer is a function of the remote control.
1626132
I used my old wall timer. Without the timer it will run 24 hours a day which wastes energy. A wall timer is inexpensive and easy to install. If you are looking for a all in one unit check out the hayward 3400VSP.
1478557
I don't believe it has that option. I use mine to operate the lights on my 80 gal aquarium and have tow light hoods plugged into the unit which operate on/off simultaneously. I also checked the net: http://www.hydrofarm.com/product.php?itemid=4165#tabs-7
1476523
If your water heater plugs into an outlet, a regular timer will work fine. Most water heaters, however, are 220 volt lines on a dedicated circuit, thus you need something more like the WH21. Here's a good reference for you:http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/waterheatertimer.html
1972419
What everyone else has told you here is true. The only thing I would add is that you may want to play w/ the time in order to fine tune it. I have an 80gal. tank, & have it come on for 1.5hrs in the morning about 6am & again at 6pm. This satisfies all our needs for the day. If you have a cheaper rate at night, time it to come on for the amount of time you determine so that it goes off at the time the rate does too. If the heater is satisfied before the time is up, it won't be on anyway...Remember to reset the clock after a noticeable power outage however!!!
864415
Yes, I have it plugged in, runs all night, just don't use any timer settings. It hasn't given me any problems at all, still running strong, no stops like 2 different Homedics ones that I had in the past. The white noise isn't quite as loud as the Homedics ones, it's sufficient.
1221644
Yes, it uses a standard electrical plug. I uses an inexpensive timer with my own aquarium and it works fine. Though. I would recommend you set the timer for no more than 4-6 hours of light. It's a strong light source and algal growth can become a problem.
79541
Not to worry. You can control the spv with an external timer. It just powers up to speed3 then times internally to speed 1 then times again. U will now have the pumps timers under the control of your external. I also use it with an external timer. No problem.
2267179
There is no timer built into the unit. I have mine wired to run whenever the main water pump runs. Its wired through the same pressure switch that turns on the pump.
180056
This timer is not designed for continuous running like most timers. Set a start time and run min.,for 1st zone then you must set a separate start time for zone #2, 3,4 etc. in increments of 15 mins. each. You can't overlap. If #1 starts at 3am, run 45 min, then zone #2 must start at 4 am and yes this means a 15 min. pause before #2 runs. Each zone also needs the day of the week you want it to run i.e. Wednesday and Saturday or whatever your local codes dictates. Same with 2,3,4. If you want only one watering time per day, that's the button you push. Hope this helps. Very simple and inexpensive unit if you want an "indoor" with plug-gable transformer. No cover so you need it indoors or out of direct contacts with the elements.
1942392
-Dimmable option: not without locating a controller -4 plugs when using 2 lights: yes -Connected together: yes/no? I did exactly what you're talking about, I mounted 2 of these a few inches apart on my 48" wide 50 gallon tank. I searched for dimmers but was not happy with my results. These lights use an XLR power plug, these are the round 3 plug design you may have seen on things like audio controller boards (types DJ's use?). If you look at other brand LED lights here on amazon you'll see the dimmer these lights would need included with some of them. I can not find one of these alone though. On to the plugs. Because each light has the blue and white on different channels you can run them separately, but since they only come with a simple power cord you'll need a way to control them. The answer here is simple. You can buy 2 dual plug heavy duty (these have the ground plug) timers at your local wally world or home repair store. Prices will vary from $4 up to $10.Plug both the white lights into one timer and both your blue lights into the other. I have my whites running about 6 hours a day right now and the blue running around 8. The white turns on first, then the blue a little while later. FYI, there is an "aquarium power strip" available but IMO they designed the lighting control wrong, read the reviews and you'll see, it's hard coded to day-on, night-off and night-on day-off, so never any overlap, never any all off, etc.
518267
It does not need a separate circuit for the timer. I ran the 240 to the timer and (I think) 12 gauge from the timer to the water heater. I'm not qualified to answer the second question, but given the way you have to wire the timer I would guess that you can't wire safely w/o the neutral.