What is the correct wiring for the lamp? The instructions are cryptic to say the least. From the importer (LEDWholesalers):Blue wire of floodlight to Neutral (usually white wire)Brown wire of floodlight to Live/Hot (usually black wire)Green/Yellow wire of floodlight to Ground (usually green or bare)Thanks to everyone who responded. What is the correct wiring for the lamp? The instructions are cryptic to say the least. From the importer (LEDWholesalers):Blue wire of floodlight to Neutral (usually white wire) » Read More What is the correct wiring for the lamp? The instructions are cryptic to say the least. From the importer (LEDWholesalers):Blue wire of floodlight to Neutral (usually white wire)Brown wire of floodlight to Live/Hot (usually black wire)Green/Yellow wire of floodlight to Ground (usually green or bare)Thanks to everyone who responded. « Show Less
939510
I apologize for not knowing the correct answer since I did not installed then myself. One technician did it fir me, although this was a very simple issue for him. The lights are working wonderfully. Very much as expected, but the pending question is do they last as long as they are suppose to? Will see.
939511
Ground - green/yellow, Live - Brown, Neutral - Blue.This is an international standard that the USA does not use.source: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20060929120608AACS38T
939512
IN USA -- Green goes to Green (GROUND) -- Brown goes to Black (HOT) -- Blue goes to White (NEUTRAL)
939513
Green goes to Green (GROUND) -- Brown goes to Black (HOT) -- Blue goes to White (COMMON)
939514
I bought a heavy duty two (2) wire cable from local home improvement store with a 2 prong connector; seems to work - there is no need for a third ground wire.
939515
Green/Yellow= Ground Brown= Hi side line Blue= neutral low side lineJim Hanson
1093262
Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the wire nuts and Please be carefully shut the power off if you can! Good luck! Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the... » Read More Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the wire nuts and Please be carefully shut the power off if you can! Good luck! « Show Less
713855
Your right, I have purchased several different models of the LED lights for evaluation and none have the yellow wire with the green stripe connected. Not even the 90 to 240 volt version has it connected. The three wire cord is a standard cord used in AC powered devices where the yellow wire with a green tracer is the ground. I assume they had a large stock of this wire and decided to just use it. The lights I have do not have the yellow wire extended inside the case. With out modifying or changing the wire you will need to depend on the mounting for ground if needed. As far as the LED lights, I have been impressed. They have worked very well. John Your right, I have purchased several different models of the LED lights for evaluation and none have the yellow wire with the green stripe connected. Not even the 90 to 240 volt version has it connected. The three wire cord is a standard cord used in AC powered devices where the yellow wire with a green tracer is the ground. I assume they had a large stock of this wire and decided to just use it. The lights I have do not have the yellow wire extended inside the case. With out modifying or changing the wire you will need to depend on the mounting for ground if needed. As far as the LED... » Read More Your right, I have purchased several different models of the LED lights for evaluation and none have the yellow wire with the green stripe connected. Not even the 90 to 240 volt version has it connected. The three wire cord is a standard cord used in AC powered devices where the yellow wire with a green tracer is the ground. I assume they had a large stock of this wire and decided to just use it. The lights I have do not have the yellow wire extended inside the case. With out modifying or changing the wire you will need to depend on the mounting for ground if needed. As far as the LED lights, I have been impressed. They have worked very well. John « Show Less
375271
Call Amazon, I had the same problem with two of the four lamps that I have ordered over the past few months. I eThey were great and replace the two, and I asked for a discount on the other two and kept them just for nite light, and they still are only warm. I am happy with amazons customer service , the two that they replaced are still not as warm as the first one I bought, so it must be just the luck of the draw. they look great, and they do seem to help with odors. in my mind I feel that they are doing me some good, so what else matters. Good luck with your lamps.
924747
If I understand your question I believe the answer is yes, INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:* Connect the Ground (Green) wire to the Green screw.* Connect the HOT (Black) wire to the Black screw* Connect the other wire (Load) from the previous switch to the yellow screw.* Connect the NEUTRAL (White) wire to the silver screw. This is requiredfor the nightlight to work.
26008
I bought this light in advance for remodeling. My contractor will be installing it within the next week. My new addition will have dimmable switches, so I after measuring the space in the light, I purchased a75W dimmable LED. The only thing I have read from reviews about this light is you have to be careful of overheating the bulb is fully enclosed. That's why I chose a bulb style rather than a floodlight style and the lower wattage. Hope this helps.
1269512
It all depends on the rating of the circuit and how many other loads are on it. A typical residential lighting circuit is 15A (15A breaker in the panel) or in some cases 20A. A flood light has two bulbs, say 150W each for a total of 300W, which divided by 120V (Ohm's law) yields 2.5A. If there is room for extra 2.5A on an existing circuit, without going over its rating, then it is OK to install the flood lights on that circuit. I hope it helps.
1142741
I bought the wire separately, about 100 ft, and the lights can be attached at any point along the wire via an easy-to-use clip connector. There are no light sensors on the floodlight - the sensor is built into the transformer, which is the preferred configuration - you do not want to have different floodlights each with individual sensors. Hope this helps.
1736656
The Green wire that you can barely see as green has a small paper tag that is the ground and hooks to the copper wire on both the lamp base and the copper wire on your light. There is another wire with a very thin white line on the wire that one connects to the white wire and the wire left over connects to the black.
2171837
wire one power supply to both ends 12v DC or 24vac works great / output switch can be NO or NC just move jumper / unit is aligned when LED is lit on receiver. The one with 2 wires is lamp and 4 wires is receiver / if near a window or slider signal may bounce off glass, A tube or tape may help to limit beam. Have fun : )
1520801
Theoretically it could be wired for 12 VDC; but it would involve more work than it is worth and probably would result in destroying some LED segments. The light source is made up of a grid of smaller LED modules in series / parallel all very close together. This grid of LED modules is connected to a heatsink that dissipates the heat to the lamp housing. Separating the LEDs for a different voltage is not something worthwhile or recommended. There are 12 volt DC LED floodlights available ready to go.
790665
You shouldnt need the yellow or green wires at all, unless you want to hook the light bar up to your turn signals. You just want to hook it up so you can see all the cool stuff it does right? Just run red wire to positive battery terminal and black wire to negative battery terminal. It should come right on. Use A to turn it on and off, C to change colors, D to change speed and B to change pattern. This light is very cool I promise. Its the best one of the 3 that i have had so far.
2165122
Jim,Based on the design observed, there maybe a question on whether the motion sensor output is compatible with the LED power supply in the flood light. The motion sensor output switch may be solid state and may not be able to control the power supply correctly based on the current draw and power factor of the LED power supply. You need to check with the motion sensor manufacturer to determine if it is able to handle the LED light load. Unfortunately there is little technical information available for the LED lamp.
2152355
I'm not sure what you are asking, but I have these lights wired to my household (120 volts?). My standard household wiring uses 14/2 wiring (14 guage with 2 conductors and 1 ground). I spliced my lamp with an outdoor extension cord that I repurposed from Xmas decorations. I then plug this into an outdoor electrical outlet. I have suffered no problems whatsoever.
544451
Wire one power supply to both ends 12v DC or 24vac works great / output switch can be NO or NC just move jumper / unit is aligned when LED is lit on receiver. The one with 2 wires is lamp and 4 wires is receiver / if near a window or slider signal may bounce off glass, A tube or tape may help to limit beam. Have fun : )
357046
Hi, mine came as black, works great. I also just ordered this light, it came in the color in the picture. Seems well put together. A bit cheaper. LEDwholesalers 10-Watt LED Waterpoof Outdoor Security Floodlight 100-240VAC, Warm White, 3701WW
2165125
Are you certain that you've got the sensor wired in correctly. It's simply a controlling device and should be wired into a switch leg - that is, the power supply (hot - usually black) wire should go to the sensor first and then continue on out to the LED supply (hot) lead. If your sensor isn't wired properly, the LED won't work. Check your wiring specification and schematic diagram closely to be certain. Also, be certain that the power supply coming into your sensor is properly grounded and then take care to continue the ground all the way to the LED installation. Lastly, the instructions that were provided with my LED floodlight specifically stated that the supply circuit should not have any appliances with controllers (such as thermostats on air conditioners, etc.) other than the motion sensor for the LED, of course. It may be helpful to meticulously draw a schematic wiring diagram of your own, labeling all wires on your various devices by color so as to be certain you've got it thought out properly before proceeding with the actual wiring project. Again, be certain that you've got all your electrical boxes grounded and that there is grounding continuity with the ground wires on both of your devices (LED AND sensor). If the above is not clear to you, I suggest you employ the services of a licensed electrician, as that would suggest you do not possess a basic understanding of electrical circuitry. You don't want to chance hurting yourself or creating a short circuit that could be hazardous and costly.