How long have you had this canopy? And what method was used to anchor; do the six verticle poles have holes near the bottom for anchoring?
933010
We have had the canopy for one month less than one year. The foot pads have four mounting holes however King Canopy says the foot pads are not for anchoring (in bold type). The poles fit into the foot pads. We used sand bags to hold the canopy in place. We used snow load cables to keep the canopy from doing the splits. Our setup does not comply with King Canopy's specifications.
503633
The straps that come down from the four corners of the top canopy have hook and pulley systems which attach to the hooks/straps on the weight bags. I use the bags half filled with sand, and attach those to the straps/pulley tighteners. The first time I put it up, there were a series of storms that came through, lots of wind, etc. and the structure stayed put. I hope this helps. I decided against the heavy plastic weights, so I can't respond about how you'd keep them attached.
318760
you use anchors to tie down the canopy, not the canopy legs. ShelterLogic 15" Auger Anchor 40' Rope, 4 Pieces
99465
We will have to check with co--I have no idea as previous e-mail reply stated, we too, staked ours down--my husband used tie downs across our greenhouse an anchored to a fence--we live in Kansas and knew with our winds, we needed it anchored. Otherwise, all is well with structure--
485540
There are no holes in the canopy for the post. I have purchased grommets to install.
1919716
They just velcro around the base, so I think you should be able to use them with any canopy that has feet on the legs.
422812
I anchored 2 corners into the ground attached to pipes which I pounded in and had drilled holes for connectors. the other two ends were attached to poles also cemented into the ground and attached to form a slanted shade area for my orchids. :) Richard
885052
I would have to dig it out of the bag and open it to answer your question. I would contact the company. I saw several of these in use on Pawley's Island during May 2014 and they held-up well in high winds without using a pole anchor.
524029
I don't know. I have the same problem with my canopy as well. I found a pole that was long enough to stick up under the roof where it sags and I put it in the space under the grommet when it rains. It works out well for me. The water just runs off the area corner that sags.
174759
Hi, we had to detach the canopy for us to store inside a boat house. We didnt want to leave it outside. However we havent checked on how it's holding up. Ontario, Canada
907384
You will definitely need some way of securing the 4 legs/corners of the canopy. I have mine on my deck and 3 of the 4 legs are secured to the spindles of the deck rail - and it has held up to torrential rains and heavy winds without any problems at all. But you will definitely need to have it secured somehow, either at the base of each leg or by the tie-downs at the four corners.
485536
In order to use the posts we would have to drill a hole to make them work. We have posts too and didn't use them. I will tell you now that I am using the canopy more and more, the top doesn't stand up like the photo shows. Mine kind of lays flat which is okay but the screen netting moves around in wind and rain gets in and everything under the canopy gets wet. Nothing like the original replacement but we tried to get that first and couldn't. It is an okay replacement but we also had tried numerous things to keep bugs from getting in between the top and the screen netting.I wound up stapling the netting border to the flaps hanging down. Works like a charm but I had to improvise a lot. In order to use the posts we would have to drill a hole to make them work. We have posts too and didn't use them. I will tell you now that I am using the canopy more and more, the top doesn't stand up like the photo shows. Mine kind of lays flat which is okay but the screen netting moves around in wind and rain gets in and everything under the canopy gets wet. Nothing like the original replacement but we tried to get that first and couldn't. It is an okay replacement but we also had tried numerous things to keep bugs from getting in between the top and the screen netting.I wound up... » Read More In order to use the posts we would have to drill a hole to make them work. We have posts too and didn't use them. I will tell you now that I am using the canopy more and more, the top doesn't stand up like the photo shows. Mine kind of lays flat which is okay but the screen netting moves around in wind and rain gets in and everything under the canopy gets wet. Nothing like the original replacement but we tried to get that first and couldn't. It is an okay replacement but we also had tried numerous things to keep bugs from getting in between the top and the screen netting.I wound up stapling the netting border to the flaps hanging down. Works like a charm but I had to improvise a lot. « Show Less
1145114
The way it anchors is: you use a pipe (provided) and hammer it into the ground to make the right sized hole. The arbor then fits into the holes. You could certainly pack in dirt, etc. around the poles once they're in to anchor them, but there's nothing included to secure it.
1525572
I use two "anchor lines"per pole at 90 degrees to each other. If the tent is stationed in soft material like sand this doesn't work. On grass , drive in tent stakes 12 inches( at least 12 inches long) for each anchor line then fix each anchor stake with a non stretch line to the points where the tent poles bend to form the roof. Also make sure that the ground stakes for the corners, mid points on the sides and two at both door flapsAlso in high wind, I found that closing all openings with the flaps all down minimizes the effect of the wind blowing inside and "picking up the roof.Mine has sustained wind gusts up to 40 MPH. Any moter that that , I would take the tent down,good Luck !. I use two "anchor lines"per pole at 90 degrees to each other. If the tent is stationed in soft material like sand this doesn't work. On grass , drive in tent stakes 12 inches( at least 12 inches long) for each anchor line then fix each anchor stake with a non stretch line to the points where the tent poles bend to form the roof. Also make sure that the ground stakes for the corners, mid points on the sides and two at both door flapsAlso in high wind, I found that closing all openings with the flaps all down minimizes the effect of the wind blowing inside and "picking up... » Read More I use two "anchor lines"per pole at 90 degrees to each other. If the tent is stationed in soft material like sand this doesn't work. On grass , drive in tent stakes 12 inches( at least 12 inches long) for each anchor line then fix each anchor stake with a non stretch line to the points where the tent poles bend to form the roof. Also make sure that the ground stakes for the corners, mid points on the sides and two at both door flapsAlso in high wind, I found that closing all openings with the flaps all down minimizes the effect of the wind blowing inside and "picking up the roof.Mine has sustained wind gusts up to 40 MPH. Any moter that that , I would take the tent down,good Luck !. « Show Less
71643
Hi Clive,I apologize for missing your message for a year.I apologize for missing your message for almost a year. I used some large orange tent stakes from Lowe's to anchor it. I also used a sharpie to mark where the pipes for the frame fit together to help put it together from year to year. I hope you are enjoying your garden.Pete
1589868
I use these bags w/a 10 x 10 canopy. They will attach to the legs of a 10 x 20 canopy as well. The only issue may be that a 10 x 20 canopy may catch more wind, and, thus, require a bit more stabilizing and anchoring weight. Btw, I filled each bag with 40 pounds of very small garden rocks (pea gravel). Took two people to do this; filling each is a bit tricky. But it worked out quite well.
1787003
We live in Miami and have fairly windy days in the summer with heavy rain. We have installed our canopy using aircraft cable to trees at the perimeter of our yard, tightened up with turnbuckles and removable using lockable steel caribiners at the canopy corners. We just didn't want the look of giant poles, so our canopy looks more like a floating sail overhead. :-) Also, if you use a post you actually need to sink the poles deeper than 3 feet...the rule of thumb is 1/3 below ground, 2/3 above. So for a sail mounted 8' high, you would need a 12' pole with 4' buried. Steel pipe 3.5-4" is recommended, especially for bigger sails in a windy area. We live in Miami and have fairly windy days in the summer with heavy rain. We have installed our canopy using aircraft cable to trees at the perimeter of our yard, tightened up with turnbuckles and removable using lockable steel caribiners at the canopy corners. We just didn't want the look of giant poles, so our canopy looks more like a floating sail overhead. :-) Also, if you use a post you actually need to sink the poles deeper than 3 feet...the rule of thumb is 1/3 below ground, 2/3 above. So for a sail mounted 8' high, you would need a 12' pole with 4' buried. Steel pipe 3.5-4" is... » Read More We live in Miami and have fairly windy days in the summer with heavy rain. We have installed our canopy using aircraft cable to trees at the perimeter of our yard, tightened up with turnbuckles and removable using lockable steel caribiners at the canopy corners. We just didn't want the look of giant poles, so our canopy looks more like a floating sail overhead. :-) Also, if you use a post you actually need to sink the poles deeper than 3 feet...the rule of thumb is 1/3 below ground, 2/3 above. So for a sail mounted 8' high, you would need a 12' pole with 4' buried. Steel pipe 3.5-4" is recommended, especially for bigger sails in a windy area. « Show Less