How similar is this to the old Sachs version? What RPM does it shift? Thinking of using this on a 20" folder. The old hub could be tweaked inside.
916541
It shifts at about 15/20 mph but it locked up on me within a week. It was smooth when it worked but I never bothered replacing it. I'd recommend it but I have read a lot of reviews from riders having the same problem I did.
916542
I never rode with the old version, but have used this new hub on 2 different folders, both 20" bikes. One has a 44 tooth chain wheel, the other a 52 tooth chain wheel. I prefer the 44 tooth chain wheel but the 52 is faster and would be better if there were no hills. It shifts at about 7-8 mph with a 20" wheel, regardless of chain wheel or cog. Some adjust the spring tension to shift at a higher speed, but I ride it as it came and it works well for me.
1082856
I will test it tonight and see. Last time I checked though it performed at good speeds. But I am only using a 4700rpm drive so I may be maxing out the read/write on it anyways. But from my experience it performs a lot better then 2.0. Also another note is that if you plug this into a 3.0 port you don't need to use the extra USB cable for power. The 3.0 port can put out enough juice to power the whole thing. I didn't know this before I bought and honestly wasn't a big deal, but helpful to know now.
356280
Reporting as promised! just did the swap, first time I've done this, no problems whatsoever. Fits the FW like a glove. Bought the acomdata tango external enclosure and used Acronis Migrate Easy 7.0 (free 15 day trial) to clone the hard drive. Now I have 243gb free space instead of 9gbs. The whole thing took 4 hours (because the 250gb HD was practically full). Very easy. So, go for it I guess. Oh, and the windows experience index jumped from 4.6 to 4.7 due to the higher HD transfer rate (which went from 5.1 to 5.9)also boosting the graphics performance from 4.6 to 4.7. Good luck.
655649
First of all change your username, I don't care how uber your shmekel is. Second, get a 2.5" to 3.5" converter (to mount in the regular hard drive slots and not the floor).Here is one I have bought previously:SilverStone Technology 3.5-Inch to 2 X 2.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive HDD / SSD Bay Converter, Silver (SDP08)Other options:2.5" To 3.5" Bay SSD HDD Notebook Hard Disk Drive Metal Black Mounting Bracket Adapter Tray Kit2.5-inch SSD/Hard Drive to 3.5-inch Bay Plastic Tray Mount Adapter KitKingwin 2.5 Inch to 3.5 Inch Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit First of all change your username, I don't care how uber your shmekel is. Second, get a 2.5" to 3.5" converter (to mount in the regular hard drive slots and not the floor).Here is one I have bought previously:SilverStone Technology 3.5-Inch to 2 X 2.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive HDD / SSD Bay Converter, Silver (SDP08)Other options:2.5" To 3.5" Bay SSD HDD Notebook Hard Disk Drive Metal Black Mounting Bracket Adapter Tray... » Read More First of all change your username, I don't care how uber your shmekel is. Second, get a 2.5" to 3.5" converter (to mount in the regular hard drive slots and not the floor).Here is one I have bought previously:SilverStone Technology 3.5-Inch to 2 X 2.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive HDD / SSD Bay Converter, Silver (SDP08)Other options:2.5" To 3.5" Bay SSD HDD Notebook Hard Disk Drive Metal Black Mounting Bracket Adapter Tray Kit2.5-inch SSD/Hard Drive to 3.5-inch Bay Plastic Tray Mount Adapter KitKingwin 2.5 Inch to 3.5 Inch Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit « Show Less
296243
I would agree. I do not imagine there is any difference internally, but you cannot so easily use a quick-change tip on a 1/4" male square drive. A standard 2" long tip can be set in the chuck at 2 different depths. The deeper setting will place the end of the tip barely sticking out the end of the chuck, which gives you even more of a compact reach that you would have thought possible.
18037
you can probably use the same derailer and just adjust it for the different size, as far as the chain sizes and stuff, I know almost enough to be dangerous when it comes to bike building and repairing, The way I figure it though, your current chain should be right about the correct size for the changes you are looking at making. As the other person responded make sure this will work for your hub, if you have a freehub this will work (you also need the tool to take the keeper off of the hub) if you do not, you would need a freewheel cassette. The difference is the free hub has the ratcheting mechanism in the hub and the freewheel has it in the casssette and the cassette is removed from the hub. I didn't realize there was a difference before I bought this and ended up getting a new rear wheel to go with my brand new cassette.
1770153
I bought this item and have installed it for my father-in-laws RV, but I'm unsure of what you mean by appropriate sized hub? Please explain and I may be able to help you.
1127922
You can use 3.5 inch if you remove a 1.44 floppy. Most modern computers only have 5.25 inch so you must use the supplied plastic adapter that converts the hub (3.5 inch) to a 5.25 inch bay. Be advised the plastic adapter is open at the top and part way on the sides so air can be sucked in at this location. My system has an air filter so I had to close this area off using cardboard and blue tape. Not a problem if your computer does not have an intake filter. Intake air filtering is indispensable if you have a shedding cat.
1214957
I've had mine for over 2 years now. At that time, the SMH-10 was a "fits all" unit. I have no knowledge about any updated units, but I can tell you that you can either secure it with stick tape or via supplied clamp (I use the clamp). Never had any issues with fit, form or function. I do highly recommend this unit. It's never failed me, and has become a staple every time I ride.
578969
The hub becomes a freewheel, not a fixed gear. This kit worked great. I replaced a 10 cog txt hub with it. Shims make it easy to adjust in minutes. I am very pleased. I used in combination with soul craft tensioner which also worked great. The only way to go.
1321770
Hi Ed, I converted 12" to 304.8 mm, I then entered 0305 into the computer and it took, no problem. Some advice, First you need to determine the exact tire diameter in MM. To do this is pretty easy. 1st, place the tire air valve so that it is in the 6 o'clock position and mark the floor with Tape, erasable marker or even a tooth pick. Then move the bike forward till the tire valve again reaches 6 o'clock and mark the floor then measure the distance between the 2 points with a tape measure. If your tape is not metric, no problem, just Google "Convert X inches, including any fractions to MM" and google will do it for you instantly. Please note that this and many other brands will tell you to have the rider sit on the Bike while moving from point a to b as the tire will flatten slightly and give you a very slight but different measurement. I did not do this, my reading was exactly 2000 mm and that works for me. you can also go to 'youtube' and enter "how to measure tire circimference on a bike for a cycling computer" and see someone do it. Another thing to keep in mind is that No Cycling Computer Mfr will tell you where on the wheel spoke to place the Magnet or the Transmitter. Why? because it doesn't matter. Some people claim it is better near the hub while others will say it is better near the rim. Technically the hub spins faster than the rim, but you'll notice the valve and the hub reach full circle at the EXACT SAME TIME. I placed mine closer to the Rim 'cause it does not stand out (I will post a picture) and the wireless transmitter being closer to the computer will give me better performance over a longer period of time. I hope this answers your question and then some. BTW, this computer is a lot easier to set than others that have way more functions added. Instructions for U4w http://en.echowell.com.tw/wp-content/uploads/U4w-Setting.pdf AND http://en.echowell.com.tw/wp-content/uploads/U4w-Installation.pdf
440871
I've added a saw to mine replacing the file with no problem. Just remember to add blue loctite to the screws when you reassemble. You should be able to add a 1/4" drive, but you may have to sacrifice 2 tools because it's quite thick. I have one on my Power Lock and it works great. As an alternate in a pinch, the large flathead can drive a 1/4" socket.
1951421
I used on left(drivers side) and worked well. The info said not handed and I checked the right and it seemed to be the same hub.
1531362
Depends on your hub size i would firgure out you hub diameter and buy based on that cause these didnt work out for me. A hubcentric spacer is the only way to go otherwise there will be movement. After my lettle while running spacers i would say its now worth putting on front wheels because of scrub radius wheel turning the wheel. I ran 1 inchers front and bqck tho for a lil
734444
I used the hub with a very old, slow Windows XP computer and a printer. So I don't know how it might perform with a fast external hard drive
1267394
I certainly does for me, but I am a wood turner and I do not trust kewless. With a key I have personally tightened it and KNOW, it will not fail and at 3000 rpm that is a great import to me. for normal use, I am not sure, but for my quick changes I have five of them and have incamentally larger bits in each one and they work very well. Hope that assists.
1288944
Get the ones with abs regardless of thread pitch. That way, even if you don't have front abs, you have a port you can stuff grease into. It really helps that axle needle bearing from wearing out. If the thread pitch is different, knock out your old studs and put them into the new hub. That's what I did and it took less than ten minutes. Plus I think the fine thread hubs were cheaper for some reason. Best of luck!