Does the plumbing have to be run behind the unit and enter above the draw or can it go straight up from the floor without hitting the draw.
933974
The plumbing has access through the back. A cut-out is provided about 16" wide x 12" high for the plumbing to access the cabinet. The drawer does not interfere with the plumbing. No access from the bottom. We had to move the water lines and train because our original plumbing was lower. If you are remodeling, I suggest you wait until you get the cabinet to get the actual measurements for the access.
933975
The water supply and the sanitary drain have to be run in the wall and enter the unit above the drawer.
933976
I don't believe the drawer is effected but the shelf had to be cut out a bit in back.
938466
No! There is a separate reservoir for dirty water and clean water. You squeeze the trigger to spray out the clean water (with the cleaning solution in it) as you go in a forward motion. Then you slowly pull it backwards over that area and it sucks up the water/dirt and that goes into the dirty water reservoir so the dirty water never goes back onto the floor.
1112520
The unit needs to be higher than the drain initialy---once it starts draining thru the hose , the unit can then be set on the same level as the drain
2175720
Yes there is a cutout in the top drawers for the pipes that is about 8 inches which allows the drawer to close. It is designed so that the drain goes into your wall from under both sinks. The union is in the wall not under the sink. My plumber had no issues with it. We did end up using the standard flexible water lines instead of the stiff copper ones the sink comes with. Jackmurphy011@gmail.com if you want me to send a couple pics
848305
If your hot/cold water valve(s) is enclosed (say, under the sink in a cabinet) then you will need to drill a small hole for the tubing to reach it inside. Other than that, nothing drastic. Just be sure it's a 2-piece toilet. The unit didn't fit our old 1-piece American Standard toilet.
1571477
The system is installed on the main water line. You will cut the main line in order to fit on the system. If you go into the installation with future removal in mind, and build a bypass, then it will make it more feasible to remove the system when you leave. When it comes to move you can run the water through the by-pass, uninstall the system, and then cap the ends which formerly fit into the system. Also, if you do the installation yourself rather than paying a plumber, it will also improve the feasibility of moving it. I do recommend that you understand your local plumbing codes before undertaking the project.
747670
There is a drain in the back of the unit at floor level. I added a condensate pump to boost it from the floor out a window. There is also a very large exhaust hose that goes with an included window mount.
933310
If local code will let you. The air gap is for a reason. If you change faucet you will have to run drain line somewhere else.
1213462
I had this tub installed in my house, and the only I can see you being able to do this is if you build a raised platform underneath it for the plumbing.There are 2 issues:1) the tub filler: this type of tub is designed for a faucet that comes from the floor, but if you can have the tub next to a wall, where your rough plumbing is at, you can use a standard faucet instead.2) tub drain: this will require plumbing under the tub. No work around that.Hope this helps.
4343
I'm not sure I fully understand your question. The drain lever is behind the faucet body and travels nearly straight up and down. Total travel is about 2 inches but never goes higher than the faucet handle. It extends behind the base about an inch or less, so if your wall or backsplash is that close, things might be tight. Good luck.
1039084
It does not. The further the supply lines are from the faucet the longer the supply lines will be which may be noticeable. If exposed try to keep all these close
1913040
It's all flexible hoses - including the drain. The unit can be moved (a short distance) with the plumbing attached.I put hot and cold water shut-offs low in the wall where the original tub had been (like you would for a washing machine). This allows hook-up prior to sliding the thing into place.
701807
Yes, the plumbing is rather straight forward and simple, just need a close electrical outlet to power the Toto. Don't settle for the cheap knock offs. The Toto is the best. I have 3 of them in my house. I installed them all.
1275041
It's on the back along the right edge (if you're looking at the unit from the back) about midway up. It is recessed and the flexible drain tube could probably be curved to facilitate running the drain tube down the back or the side. I use the reservoir instead of the drainage tube since it's front loaded and easy to access. I've been very happy with these units.
568606
Offhand, not really, but you could check for kinks in the lines. Sometimes also when turning the water off at the source, it doesn't come all the way back if the plumbing is old.
1335193
Mine was installed with a dedicated return line coming back from the last usage point using PEX plastic tubing and easy connect fittings. the return is connected into the drain line at the bottom of the water heater. I don't think it is designed for any other type of installation. The is another style that connects to the lines under the sink that does not require a separate return line.
212548
if you go to Wayne pumps.com manuals and literature you will find the manual for your pump she tells you the lift heightEtc. once the water is up it will flow horizontally no prob the pressure tank will make it so you don't have to turn it on and off the pressure switch come on when you turn the faucet or Hose on.