Does this light flicker? Can you shoot faster than 1/60th without banding?
917589
I have found that you can shoot at/or below 1/125th and be just fine. You can see some examples of my ring light work on Facebook. -Jeremy Hammons Photography-
917590
This light is amazing. As a matter of fact I need to get another one. The light does not flicker and is a real night white light. And yes you can shoot well over 1/60th. The light is really bright. I only wish you could dial it down. Just a tip never trop this because the bulb is not replaceable. I learned it the hard way.
910204
No, the 'frequency" or rate of flashes per minute cannot be adjusted. It is a set pattern to be used to temporarily disorient or blind an attacker. It is a great light however. BTW Defend the Second Amendment while you still can and before it's too late!
1246763
Yes they flicker, but they can be set to just stay a constant light as well. You can adjust the flicker too. Hope this helps!
1679657
These types of devices do not in any way prevent flicker, not does any lens. To get rid of flicker, your camera settings must be set to the correct shutter speed. Most cameras do not allow you to control shutter speed.
1860537
I don't recommend this light much at all, I would go to a gun shop to see what they have to offer, the light is very bright but as soon as you shoot the gun the light bounces out of alignment. The other issue with this particular one is that the flash light part does not thread on it is a twist and clip so it will be loose all the time. The one in the store actually threaded in so felt it would be more accurate. This is not accurate at all and does not matter how many times you set it. As soon as the gun is fired it will knock it out of alignment. Not sure why this one was so much different then the same one in the store even though it has the same box, and same model. I don't recommend this light much at all, I would go to a gun shop to see what they have to offer, the light is very bright but as soon as you shoot the gun the light bounces out of alignment. The other issue with this particular one is that the flash light part does not thread on it is a twist and clip so it will be loose all the time. The one in the store actually threaded in so felt it would be more accurate. This is not accurate at all and does not matter how many times you set it. As soon as the gun is fired it will knock it out of alignment. Not sure why this one was so much different... » Read More I don't recommend this light much at all, I would go to a gun shop to see what they have to offer, the light is very bright but as soon as you shoot the gun the light bounces out of alignment. The other issue with this particular one is that the flash light part does not thread on it is a twist and clip so it will be loose all the time. The one in the store actually threaded in so felt it would be more accurate. This is not accurate at all and does not matter how many times you set it. As soon as the gun is fired it will knock it out of alignment. Not sure why this one was so much different then the same one in the store even though it has the same box, and same model. « Show Less
191750
I am having the same problem. I bought two strands at the same time. One has started to intermittently flicker when in the non-blinking mode and the other is fine. I was wondering about exchanging as well.
2035520
Oh no. This is not blown out of proportion. If I could take mine back I would. Utterly useless for anything other than casual shooting. If you are in need of consistent results you would need to rotate two HVLF60M's or possibly even three. I use the flash until it over heats at roughly around 20 shots and then I switch to an old manual Nikon flash for about five to ten minutes until the flash cools down. The TTL works rather well so if you own the HVLF60M it is worth the trouble of switching out flashes but it isn't worth buying.
683865
My ATN has no magnification. In perfect conditions (full moon) I'm comfortable taking shots at stationary targets at 50 yards. Using a 980nm IR illuminator works well. Source is invisible to the human eye but the scope sees it well.
1653790
Not too bad if you aim it just a few feet in front of you. But that means you can't go too fast and the beam is pretty narrow. I found it's not much brighter than some 1 watt lights I have had. I replaced it with a Cygolite Metro 360. It's about $20 dollars more but it's a far, far, better light with a much wider and brighter beam, good for safely going about 18mph. Best light I have ever had. I would highly recommend it as a reasonably cost effective alternative. (There is also a Cygolight Metro 400 which is only a couple dollars more than the 360) I believe the top of the mount of the blaze will swivel if you loosen a screw but I'm not positive of that. Don Solt Not too bad if you aim it just a few feet in front of you. But that means you can't go too fast and the beam is pretty narrow. I found it's not much brighter than some 1 watt lights I have had. I replaced it with a Cygolite Metro 360. It's about $20 dollars more but it's a far, far, better light with a much wider and brighter beam, good for safely going about 18mph. Best light I have ever had. I would highly recommend it as a reasonably cost effective alternative. (There is also a Cygolight Metro 400 which is only a couple dollars more than the 360) I believe the top of the mount of the... » Read More Not too bad if you aim it just a few feet in front of you. But that means you can't go too fast and the beam is pretty narrow. I found it's not much brighter than some 1 watt lights I have had. I replaced it with a Cygolite Metro 360. It's about $20 dollars more but it's a far, far, better light with a much wider and brighter beam, good for safely going about 18mph. Best light I have ever had. I would highly recommend it as a reasonably cost effective alternative. (There is also a Cygolight Metro 400 which is only a couple dollars more than the 360) I believe the top of the mount of the blaze will swivel if you loosen a screw but I'm not positive of that. Don Solt « Show Less
1232507
Its quite bright on the high setting. I doubt I'll even need the high setting during daylight until the batteries start to get weak. First time I shot was full sun and on high the red dot was "bleeding out", I had to turn it dimmer to get a cleaner dot for clean aiming. Oh, right. The Red Dot scope from TruGlo I put on with the NcStar 45-degree mount has the qualities listed above. :)
1691392
No. I have work with it for long hours. Check the settings and make sure it is not set for 60 hertz. Try a higher setting such as 120 hertz. It could be flickering. Otherwise, call for tech support.
2237947
I don't think the light is supposed to flicker, mine doesn't. I think yours is not working properly.
1679654
The flicker is caused by a difference between your projector's operating frame rate and the camera's recording frame rate. What you see as flicker is actually the dark between each projected film frame. Film projectors typically operate anywhere from 16 to 24 frames per second depending on the format. Most digital cameras capture at 60 frames per second with an increasing number offering 24 frames per second. To avoid or minimize flicker you should capture at the same frame rate as the projection or the closest clean multiple of it. Running a clean multiple would simply add extra frames to the recorded video stream which is fine. It just increases your file size. If your projector runs at 24 frames per second then you would want to record at either 24 frames per second, 48 frames per second, 72 frames per second, etc. Digital cameras that record at 60 frames per second would see a 12 frame per second difference between 72 frames per second. That is what you call flicker. If you can't set the recording frame rate of your camera then you might be able to reduce the flicker by manually setting the shutter speed of your camera. Slower speeds would allow the camera to average the exposure of the light and dark frames into a single frame. Try something between 1/30th and 1/50th. Most inexpensive point and shoot cameras do not allow this much manual control. Some do. You would probably need to use an advanced compact camera or DSLRs which are geared to those who look for more control of their devices. Be aware that digital cameras were not designed to run continuously like camcorders. The image sensors are bigger than what is inside a camcorder and these sensors can run hot. They will also draw more power so using an external power adapter for long transfers is advisable.
993574
Yes but its not worth the money. Its really a pos light. I talked it up in my review but then after firing about 100-150 rds through it, broke it. Save your money and buy a streamlight or surefire. My streamlight has had 350-400 rounds through it and still runs flawless.
1114374
There are some in the 16-mm world - http://www.moviestuff.tv/sniper_16_hd.html - and may be some 8mm also. Kodak made an 8mm projector with a TV shutter - necessary to overcome flicker. I use a variable speed 8mm projector running fast enough to match the 24fps camera settings. Then I restore it to proper speed with Final Cut. Given the cost of setting all this up I think the use of a service, unless you have a LOT of film, is the best way to go. A Google search will find companies (including Walmart) that provide the service.
1659599
I have two and have not noticed any flickers. I use the on a dimmer and they are great.
160826
Not sure, but I would move on to a better light. I was very impressed when I got mine... looked "high dollar". I didn't even care that the pressure switch didn't work, because I wasn't planning on using it. The big issue is I mounted it on an AR 15 "223-556" and every time I fire if the light is on it cycles through on, strobe, and off. Light works fine if you never fire your rifle... would not ever trust my life with it. I guess it would be fine just to carry in a pocket or something. Gave mine to my 4 yr old son. waste of money :(