bought one from you..wired as the npic shows.. voltage was off 2/10 th of a volt so not bad. i calibrated it and it is very close now. but no current
917453
I was unable to get the meter to read low amps. It would show amps when the load reached 40 amps and higher. Tried everything even with shunt. Customer was content to having a volt meter that would show voltage dropping on the inverter system.
917454
Did you get the external shunt? Go to ebay and search for.... Amp volt meter...... you will find one like yours along with a drawing.
417737
Never noticed that. My voltage has remained constant (as far as I know) at 117-118 volts for as long as I have owned it. But I am a pretty sound sleeper, so if there was a "brownout" at night, it was not enough to wake me up. (My CPU fan makes a LOT more noise than my Tripplite!)
1451050
Unfortunately, I can't tell you. I wired mine just as it was wired when I got my new one. Sorry
2138218
Make sure you replaced it with the correct photocell get a small voltage tester to see if the unit is working properly check for loose wires
1758346
Honestly I'm mot sure. I did take apart the switch unit to see if there were posts to change the frequency. When I opened it I noticed the main board was a very cheaply made one materials wise. I would wager the seller intends low amp and voltage for the unit. Im not an electrician but I do know computers. Im basing my guess on personal observations.
882910
It doesn't look like a good match, open-mesh says 12-18 volt and the toughswitch is 24/48 volt. I've only used it with Ubiquiti AP so YMMV.
603200
Hi, Yes, you can use the meter power it and monitor it when connected to the same source. You can also have it be powered by another unit to measure something else. The input voltage ranges from 4.5 to 30 volts. Just make sure to not wire the unit backwards as there is no reverse voltage protection. Note that the brown (or black in some models) wire is the main (common) negative wire and the red wire is the positive power wire. The other color yellow (or white in some models) is the positive voltage measuring wire. For example, you would power the volt meter by connecting it to the brown wire to the negative terminal of the voltage supply and the red to the positive terminal of the voltage supply. You then would connect the yellow white to the positive terminal of whatever you are measuring to it and the brown wire to the negative part (you'll need to solder another to it to make a "Y" connection lead). Last remark, the little screw on the back of the unit allows you to calibrate the unit, you might want to compare and make changes to the unit with another volt meter you already know that is accurate as mine was off by 0.2 volts. I hope this helps!
1715761
Get the voltage and polarity right and you should be ok. Just be careful not to fry it.
431919
Funny that you asked me this question... I am an Electrician by trade, and I have No Idea about the DC low Voltage on this perticular component..? I just matched it with the other 4 GB Ram memory board that came with the pc... I can take a reading, and get back with you on this, but normally I wire homes dealing with AC Electrical Current...
604135
You should be able to tell exactly what is going on with your voltmeter, either measuring voltage or resistance. Evidently you tried that, so it is not obvious what is wrong. I assume that you have applied a voltage properly to the unit. I doubt that the unit is at fault.
1808472
Yes, I was worried about that, too. I don't remember the voltage, but it was even pre-wired.
166033
OK, let's find the source of the problem: First, unplug the X-Box from the CONTROL OUTLET. Then substitute a simple load, such as a table lamp with a standard 40-100 watt incandescant light bulb. Turn the light on and off and see if that switches the slave outlets (there is a slight time delay - that is normal). If that works, then the SmartStrip is OK, otherwise, it is defective. X-Boxes, Playstations, etc. draw current even when they're "off", and that amount of "quiescent current" may be too high for the current sensing circuit in the SmartStrip. All is not lost - yet. Swap the table lamp back to the X-Box, and try turning the small sensitivity adjustment on the edge of the power strip. It sets the point at which the current sensor inside the unit triggers the ON/OFF function for the slave outlets. If it doesn't work in the clockwise direction, then turn it the other direction. If that still doesn't work, your X-Box is still drawing too much current from the AC line - a common issue with game boxes. It's not a defect, just the poor energy design of some game boxes. As a last resort (if the sensitivity adjustment didn't work), you could use an in-line AC switch between the Control Outlet and the X-Box. It kind of defeats the purpose of using the SmartStrip, but it's still better than nothing at all.
792506
Bad connection??I haven't had this happen. Been using the gauges about 2 years now.If voltage is right around the cutoff of 4.5V I suppose it could blink on/off as the voltage hovers around that point. Gauge puts a tiny load on system so volts would drop, then without the load V would increase again over 4.5V so it would light up again, and the cycle would repeat.
1064911
Yes, I had the same problem. The two smaller wires are the supply voltage for the meter itself. Red is positive, black is negative. I used 5 Volts DC to power mine. The bigger wires are red, blue and black. Red is the voltage sense, blue and black are for the current sense. Black should be connected directly to ground. The blue then becomes the ground for whatever device you are sensing the current on. So, the ground side of the load goes into the blue wire (then through a shunt resistor) and then out of the black wire to ground. Hope this helps! :)
2263358
I fused the incoming side of mine. When I put the fuse in it popped very loud. I thought something was wrong also but it did not blow the fuse and when I checked the voltage on the other wires it was a perfect 12V. Still kinda scary hooking it up but I guess it is normal.
288371
I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to check on it today. If you'd like to contact me at techsmile42 on yahoo I can send you a better pcic of what the end of the cord looks like.
2231649
I use a generic one, with interchangeable connection pins and variable voltage (but fixed 3A). Set it to 9V, center pin positive connection, and you're ready to go. I'm pretty sure you can find one here.