Image Stabilization - how much of a difference does it make? Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD (Body Only)I'll admit up front that I'm a lousy photographer and this contributes to my interest in image stabilization. I currently have an e-500 that i'm reasonably happy with and so, I'm wondering if I will notice a crisper image with the e-620's IS. Thoughts? I mostly use my camera for wildlife and travel. Image Stabilization - how much of a difference does it make? Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD (Body Only)I'll... » Read More Image Stabilization - how much of a difference does it make? Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD (Body Only)I'll admit up front that I'm a lousy photographer and this contributes to my interest in image stabilization. I currently have an e-500 that i'm reasonably happy with and so, I'm wondering if I will notice a crisper image with the e-620's IS. Thoughts? I mostly use my camera for wildlife and travel. « Show Less
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Just to expand Marty's point a bit...With a non-image stabilized camera, the rule of thumb for a 4/3 camera is to use a shutter speed of 1/(2 X FocalLength) sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-500 and a 200mm lens, you would need to shoot handheld at a shutter speed of 1/400 sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-620 and a 200mm lens with image stabilization engaged, however, you could use a shutter speed of 1/100 sec or possibly as slow as 1/50 sec.Note that image stabilization will not stop blurring from subject motion. Just to expand Marty's point a bit...With a non-image stabilized camera, the rule of thumb for a 4/3 camera is to use a shutter speed of 1/(2 X FocalLength) sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-500 and a 200mm lens, you would need to shoot handheld at a shutter speed of 1/400 sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-620 and a 200mm lens with image stabilization engaged, however, you could use a shutter speed of 1/100 sec or possibly as slow as 1/50 sec.Note that image stabilization will not stop... » Read More Just to expand Marty's point a bit...With a non-image stabilized camera, the rule of thumb for a 4/3 camera is to use a shutter speed of 1/(2 X FocalLength) sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-500 and a 200mm lens, you would need to shoot handheld at a shutter speed of 1/400 sec or faster in order to avoid camera shake blurring.With the E-620 and a 200mm lens with image stabilization engaged, however, you could use a shutter speed of 1/100 sec or possibly as slow as 1/50 sec.Note that image stabilization will not stop blurring from subject motion. « Show Less
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I agree with Otodom. While my prefered mode to make portraits is seeing through the viewfinder, the EM5 will allow me to see the image completely live while composing the picture. Older cameras allowed me to see the image only when it was already taken, that is, in playback mode. Completely live means that the view takes into account the DOF and luminosity resulting from the ISO, aperture and speed selected.
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Sorry, there is no comparisons here. The SONY is a "pocket" camera" and the Olympus is (overall) much bigger and will not fit in a pocket. There are several main differences. First, the Olympus is 40X optical vs the Sony 20X optical. With that much zoom power, you need a camera you can hold on to. The Sony offers little in this area. On the flip size, the xtra wide angle of the Olympus can't be beat. Second, (and this is my preference) I like using standard (rechargeable-Nimh) double AA batteries for the Olympus, vs. a custom battery for the Sony. While I have taken over 20,000 pictures with my SP-820, I have mastered only 30% of the features; and try to learn new ones when I can. My Son likes Sony Camera's for their size, but he mostly shoots on auto modes and rarely uses any of its features.. While there is a "significant" difference in megapixels (Sony 18 megapixels vs Olympus 14 megapixels) this could make a difference in prints larger than 11" x 17" (and you would need a really large printer.) I have such a large printer, and I am always impressed with the quality of the prints from my Olympus. You maybe wondering, what photo programs I use. Generally Picasa, Photo shop (for digital manipulation), Corel Photo (quick and easy) are my three favorites. The decision you must make - do you want a POCKET point and shoot camera or one that will really take pictures you want. My only failure to date is I have been unable to "shoot" the International space station as it zips by. I must tell you that until you become accustom to the 40X zoom, a good light weigh quality tripod (or mono-pod) may be required.
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While the camera does help stabilize the images, I find the effect is modest. When possible, I use a monopod for hand-held shots. For 30 x be at all stable I would use a tripod. I am quite happy with this cameras performance, sharper pictures and better in low light than others I have seen. I have not used the JVC E100. My older cameras are Sony Handy Cams, so I am mostly comparing to them.
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Do you have olympus lenses or will this be your first slr? If it's your first I would say go with the 520 if you have the extra cash. I have the e 510 and use it for everything. I just used it for a wedding and the pictures were amazing! I would put the e-510 up against any other camera on the market in the under $1000 class. The 520 has some features that are tying to attract more point-n-shooters, like face detection with the live view. It also has upgrades that ofcourse we haven't seen so we won't know if they make a big enough difference. If you can wait get the 520, if not the e-510 with the 14-54 lens is a great combo, you can't go wrong with either one. Do you have olympus lenses or will this be your first slr? If it's your first I would say go with the 520 if you have the extra cash. I have the e 510 and use it for everything. I just used it for a wedding and the pictures were amazing! I would put the e-510 up against any other camera on the market in the under $1000 class. The 520 has some features that are tying to attract more point-n-shooters, like face detection with the live view. It also has upgrades that ofcourse we haven't seen so we won't know if they make a big enough difference. If you can wait get the 520, if not the e-510... » Read More Do you have olympus lenses or will this be your first slr? If it's your first I would say go with the 520 if you have the extra cash. I have the e 510 and use it for everything. I just used it for a wedding and the pictures were amazing! I would put the e-510 up against any other camera on the market in the under $1000 class. The 520 has some features that are tying to attract more point-n-shooters, like face detection with the live view. It also has upgrades that ofcourse we haven't seen so we won't know if they make a big enough difference. If you can wait get the 520, if not the e-510 with the 14-54 lens is a great combo, you can't go wrong with either one. « Show Less
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I faced the same dilemma and went through many sites (dpreview, thewirecutter, etc.) & YouTube videos (Tony Northrup, few others) before settling on the E-M10. I think the consensus was that the a6000 was slightly better image & feature-wise, but the Oly was smaller, cheaper, and most importantly had a far greater selection of lenses.
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It might stabalize a dslr camera with a stock lens the same as far as smoothness goes, but the flycam can stabalize a lot heavier camera. Its made like the big professional body suit stabalizer that carry much bigger cameras that's why I chose it over the Merlin design and it's pretty great for just under $200
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I've also heard that the 870 has better picture stablization. I'm disappointed that the comparison chart on Canon.com does not identify the differences very well. I'm struggling with the same question between the 2 cameras.
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This was just the post I was looking for. My daughter has the D80 (I think) and wants to step up to more manual features, rather than simply point and shoot. Already familiar with Nikon layout - she selected the 3100 for her next step up but I was wondering what the differences were with the 5100. I agree with the swivel ability of the screen. She does a lot of self and group portraits that I think is needed for such situations. Anyhoo, I am glad I found you two talking about this.
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i too had problems with blurring and out of focus shots, ive used the camera a lot recently, and was getting annoyed that close up shots were rubbish, until a friend said try turning off the image stabilizer, i did, close up pics look much sharper, i only use the stabilzer now for long zoom shots, isnt that what its suppose to be for anyway, maybe it aint suppose to be on all the time
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Hello,The current Olympus bodies have 3 axis stabilization built into the body. Additionally this camera has a maximum IOS of 25600, although the maximum acceptable setting for most people is 6400 in regards to noise levels. Lastly you cannot use both stabilization systems simultaneously, one of them has to been turned off. We recommend faster lenses, lenses which have more light gathering ability, rather than lenses with stabilization. Besides, Running both systems simultaneously will most certainly compromise the ability to hold things steady, not to mention cause damage to one or both of the IS systems. Regards,RooozbehOC camera949-347-1276 Hello,The current Olympus bodies have 3 axis stabilization built into the body. Additionally this camera has a maximum IOS of 25600, although the maximum acceptable setting for most people is 6400 in regards to noise levels. Lastly you cannot use both stabilization systems simultaneously, one of them has to been turned off. We recommend faster lenses, lenses which have more light gathering ability, rather than lenses with stabilization. Besides, Running both systems simultaneously will most certainly compromise the ability to hold things steady, not to mention cause damage to one or... » Read More Hello,The current Olympus bodies have 3 axis stabilization built into the body. Additionally this camera has a maximum IOS of 25600, although the maximum acceptable setting for most people is 6400 in regards to noise levels. Lastly you cannot use both stabilization systems simultaneously, one of them has to been turned off. We recommend faster lenses, lenses which have more light gathering ability, rather than lenses with stabilization. Besides, Running both systems simultaneously will most certainly compromise the ability to hold things steady, not to mention cause damage to one or both of the IS systems. Regards,RooozbehOC camera949-347-1276 « Show Less
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It was a OK camera, however the E500 is a better one. I upgraded my to E510 the semi-professional and still have it and have not changed it for the purposes. However, if you want a beginners SLR then get the E300.
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IS = Image Stabilization. A lens with IS can be used to take photos at slower shutter speeds than lenses without IS before camera shake causes the image to become blurry. Usually you need a shutter speed that is 1/FL, where FL=focal length of the lens, to prevent camera shake when handholding this lens (e.g., not mounted to a tripod). So if you had this lens set to 200mm you would normally need a shutter speed of 1/200 or faster (1/320 on a crop sensor body such as a Rebel, 70D, 7D, etc., due to the 1.6X reduced field of view). With the IS version you could shoot 1/100, even 1/50 if you have a steady hand, and get consistently good results. IS = Image Stabilization. A lens with IS can be used to take photos at slower shutter speeds than lenses without IS before camera shake causes the image to become blurry. Usually you need a shutter speed that is 1/FL, where FL=focal length of the lens, to prevent camera shake when handholding this lens (e.g., not mounted to a tripod). So if you had this lens set to 200mm you would normally need a shutter speed of 1/200 or faster (1/320 on a crop sensor body such as a Rebel, 70D, 7D, etc., due to the 1.6X reduced field of view). With the IS version you could shoot 1/100, even... » Read More IS = Image Stabilization. A lens with IS can be used to take photos at slower shutter speeds than lenses without IS before camera shake causes the image to become blurry. Usually you need a shutter speed that is 1/FL, where FL=focal length of the lens, to prevent camera shake when handholding this lens (e.g., not mounted to a tripod). So if you had this lens set to 200mm you would normally need a shutter speed of 1/200 or faster (1/320 on a crop sensor body such as a Rebel, 70D, 7D, etc., due to the 1.6X reduced field of view). With the IS version you could shoot 1/100, even 1/50 if you have a steady hand, and get consistently good results. « Show Less
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I didn't see any difference. I am very happy with mine, it woulds like I believe it should. There was only one issue with the viewfinder which in my opinion become too easily detached, but I am sure that's only my model. I would say do more research on this 1d in comparison to others. You can always buy and return it to if you don't mind spending a few bucks on shipping it back if you don't like it.
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Interesting question. If you still have the 300, changing your viewpoint may make more sense than changing your camera. You get to keep the 300's excellent IQ... and keep your money. Just set it to EXR Automatic and forget those other features. Which is the exact setting you'll do best with on the 660. So, settings/ease of use-wise, it's a wash. About the only substantive difference between the two cams lies in their respective sensors. I don't think you want to have that discussion, but if you did, many knowledgeable folks would argue the edge goes to the 300. On paper, at least, the 660 offers much faster continuous shooting: 11 fps versus 2. And it costs about 70 bucks less than the 300, new, on Amazon. I don't see you going wrong with either choice...if I've read you right.
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I replaced my Canon 60d and smaller Sony A55 with an Olympus E-P3. I've owned several intro/mid-level dSLRs, and I would say the E-P3 was my favorite camera of all time. My pictures were amazing, it was fast, and best of all was that it was truly portable - perfect for my hiking trips. Were you mainly using the camera in auto mode? I always used it in manual, so can't really tell you how good or bad the camera did in 'A' mode - but in manual mode it was nearly perfect. The lenses you use may also play a role. My favorite lens of all time had been (maybe still is) the Canon 24-70mm lens, and I thought I would never find something that worked just as well, but I came across the Panasonic 14-140mm lens, which is super amazing, and became my favorite and main lens for the E-P3. The lack of viewfinder was never an issue for me, since I used the VF-2 view finder by Olympus. Sure, I was never happy using the E-P3 without the viewfinder, so I kept it on most of the time. I did sell the E-P3 on Ebay soon after the OM-D was announced. I figured that if the E-P3 had become my favorite camera of all time, getting the OM-D would be a no brainer since the specs are better than the E-P3 and it included a built in viewfinder. I have used an NEX-5 (first gen) in the past, and I must say I hated that camera due to how hard it made to shoot in 'M' mode; however, Sony released the NEX-7, a nearly perfect camera targeted towards potential dSLR owners. Deciding between the NEX-7 and the OM-D is a challenge, and they each have their pluses and negatives; however, those looking to replace a dSLR for some trips, shouldn't consider anything other than the OM-D(m4/3) or NEX-7(e-mount) for the time being; although, I bet Panasonic has something in the works to compete with Sony and Olympus.
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I'm sure the only difference is the IS but IS can make a big difference in IQ especially at long focal lengths. Yes it's a lot more money but in my opinion, it's well worth the cost. You cant always shoot at high shutter speeds to avoid motion blur / camera shake