During assembly, how do I "extend"the shock so I can finish installation? Thanks, David
1049409
You should spray lubricant like wd40 because it is dry. There is a lubricant made for rower & it works OK but wd40 works better on the silver part of the shock. There is a knob on the outer side of rowing arm. Loosen it & lift up &on; front of raising area see very lightly numbered shallow impressions. Set at lowest level #1 until easier. Sit on seat and look closely at the arm area. Take your time and make sure correct arms are on the correct side. :)
1049410
You should spray lubricant like wd40 because it is dry. There is a lubricant made for rower & it works OK but wd40 works better on the silver part of the shock. There is a knob on the outer side of rowing arm. Loosen it & lift up &on front of raising area see very lightly numbered shallow impressions. Set at lowest level #1 until easier. Sit on seat and look closely at the arm area. Take your time and make sure correct arms are on the correct side. :)
1049411
i cant remember exactly how i did it - but the shocks will move with a bit of pulling - attach to handle and then tie a string or something to the end and pull until it will fit -
1840621
I just want to hook up the shock part but it keeps arming itself after I have disarmed it how do you get over this Rick.
61579
Sorry for the delay. We were away for a while. Yes just loosen the bolt a bit, not too much.
1874834
You should not need longer shocks. I just recently put these on my 2000 F-150 2WD and am still using the stock shocks. You shouldn't "need" anything else for installation. But keep in mind the age of our trucks. Things will likely break when you start ripping them apart or you may find things in need of replacement while you're under there. I had two bad ball joints and another on its way out so I replaced all four while I was there. Your end links will likely break when you take them apart so expect to replace those (less than $10). Other than that it's just a bit of hard work. Good luck if you decide to install them on your truck, I love the way they look on mine. You should not need longer shocks. I just recently put these on my 2000 F-150 2WD and am still using the stock shocks. You shouldn't "need" anything else for installation. But keep in mind the age of our trucks. Things will likely break when you start ripping them apart or you may find things in need of replacement while you're under there. I had two bad ball joints and another on its way out so I replaced all four while I was there. Your end links will likely break when you take them apart so expect to replace those (less than $10). Other than that it's just a bit of hard work.... » Read More You should not need longer shocks. I just recently put these on my 2000 F-150 2WD and am still using the stock shocks. You shouldn't "need" anything else for installation. But keep in mind the age of our trucks. Things will likely break when you start ripping them apart or you may find things in need of replacement while you're under there. I had two bad ball joints and another on its way out so I replaced all four while I was there. Your end links will likely break when you take them apart so expect to replace those (less than $10). Other than that it's just a bit of hard work. Good luck if you decide to install them on your truck, I love the way they look on mine. « Show Less
2096753
Hi - I ended up purchasing the Dorman 949-000 which was the whole assembly for $256 plus free shipping. I'm not 100% positive, but it's maybe because of the canister. I originally just replaced the components in the canister, hoping it would fix the problem, but ended up purchasing all the shocks and the air unit. Hope this helps.
532785
I didn't use a torque wrench to install it. I just used the crush washer and made sure the alignment for the top holes was correct. I have this brake installed on 2 ARs and both of them had different amounts of force to align them. I have shot several hundred rounds through each of them and neither brake shows any signs of movement.These are LOUD though so make sure anyone with you doesn't stand to the side. Directly behind doesn't seem to be too bad but you can really feel and hear the concussion if you are a couple of feet to either side.Of course, hearing protection is critical with this brake installed.On my rifles the muzzle barely moves and I can stay on target easily for follow up shots.Enjoy,Rick I didn't use a torque wrench to install it. I just used the crush washer and made sure the alignment for the top holes was correct. I have this brake installed on 2 ARs and both of them had different amounts of force to align them. I have shot several hundred rounds through each of them and neither brake shows any signs of movement.These are LOUD though so make sure anyone with you doesn't stand to the side. Directly behind doesn't seem to be too bad but you can really feel and hear the concussion if you are a couple of feet to either side.Of course, hearing protection is... » Read More I didn't use a torque wrench to install it. I just used the crush washer and made sure the alignment for the top holes was correct. I have this brake installed on 2 ARs and both of them had different amounts of force to align them. I have shot several hundred rounds through each of them and neither brake shows any signs of movement.These are LOUD though so make sure anyone with you doesn't stand to the side. Directly behind doesn't seem to be too bad but you can really feel and hear the concussion if you are a couple of feet to either side.Of course, hearing protection is critical with this brake installed.On my rifles the muzzle barely moves and I can stay on target easily for follow up shots.Enjoy,Rick « Show Less
1662707
Clean it. Something is completing the circuit and triggering the shock over and over. Use alcohol wipes on everything you can to make it spotless on the plates and in between. I had this issue after a few kills and cleaning up the death marks helped :)
1796464
Screw it down to where the springs are almost fully compressed. The plastic is not the critical structure at risk, it is the CPU and the MB backing plate. The springs provide proper torque load as you compress them to near full compression. Do it in steps, in an X pattern.
1805069
I have replaced the rear shocks first since those were very bad. Just 3 bolts in the trunk to the top bracket and one big bolt on the bottom. You will need a spring compressor which auto z loaned me. Compress the spring on both sides to take the tension off and unbolt the top center bolt. Keep the parts in order as you remove them and install them on the new shock. Reverse to install, Easy install. Have not done the front yet but are similar. The install the front, use Chalk to mark the pattern on the lower parts to get the new part installed close to original then get the alingment done
1364429
Everything you need is in the kit. I just trimmed the tube the bolt goes through to make the shock fit tight against the bike.
1978745
No,don't remove lift, just replace shock,right shock and left shock are different numbers
596993
You only have to install the resistor where you install the shock. If you only install one shock you install one resistor
2110736
Get a screwdriver and really get in there, it'll tighten! Just took a lil more than a few twists.
1248894
It sounds like either your gas shocks are dead or you did not assemble them properly. Did you remove the plastic piece on the shock so the pressure would reduce? I have 4 and they work perfect.Watch the short video below.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kfd_o3n-XY
1763805
Not sure about bumping up the breaker. Good question.the supplier should know.
1828618
Front Shock. Rears are different. Use the Look Up Make and Model, will help. Cheers. Ken.
2240860
shouldnt need to do anything,, just change the shock level,,thats ez,, to do,,turn the colar on by touching the red button together,, the remoat,,you hold,,against the colar,, should work,, tom