Does Each unit require it's own 120v supply or just the orange wire to be connected?
1052739
You should provide power to each unit. If that is impractical, there are battery operated units that have ten-year batteries.
1594395
It connects to the alarm panel. Do not try to put 120V to it or it will blow.
1556300
Yes. All 120 volt connections must be made in a box. If you had connections in wires coming in the low-voltage side (Internet or cable TV), they don't necessarily need to be made in a box.
400054
No 120v ac only but if you have 220v just hook to one hot and common cap other hot wire and you have 120
1263917
The neutral does not need to be connected. The voltage across the red and black is 240V and the white is just a center-tap on that potential, meaning the voltage between white and red (or between white and black) is 120V and this unit does not need both 240V and 120V at the same time. Be sure to cap off the unused white wire.
18367
There are a separate set of two terminals for each of two lines of lights. As it is 12 volt you can hook up your cable to whichever set you choose. Don't worry about which one goes where as long as you use the same set of terminals. Unless you run a transformer on the same line of a long run with a transformer on each end. I have done this and it takes some planning as the 120 volt transformers also need to be on the same circuit and wired alike or you will blow a transformer.
565882
The unit has a built in electric pump that works both ways. It requires a 120 outlet.
1209631
You just need the 110 volts to run the siren. The siren talks to the main unit wirelessly without any further power connections
1194919
Have to make your own -low voltage wires - 120v wires - 240v wires plus conduit or what is code
551672
You should have standard voltage which is what this unit requires. If you remain unsure just ask your building superintendent - or call your utility provider to assuage any doubts you may have.
359081
Obviously the unit needs to be powered for it to be function. The top left "input" on the unit is for 12v in. The wall power adapter that comes with the unit needs to be plugged in, coax from that right into that port is how you accomplish that. I hope that answers your question.
1427560
I don't think so. The units I bought only has wires to AC. No other wires or terminals were on the unit.
121657
You're on your own for the control cable. You need a light gauge 3-conductor cable (thermostat cable will work), the power supply is only one Amp.
2266789
Yes, wire to inside unit is included. #12 wire is sufficient for outside unit power, it can handle 20 amps. Some local codes require a fourth white (neutral) wire in 230 volt appliances. It acts as a backup ground and safer should something happen to the copper ground wire.
581139
As long as the device you intended to control is 120vac and the current consumed is equal or less of the rated outlet. You are free to connect any device you want.
1328324
Not required, even if hooked up to a generator instead of city/county power. My refrigerator and freezer work fine as well as some battery chargers I had running off the dirty output of a poorly regulating generator but the UPS kept flickering on and off so I had to unplug it.
1591304
Nope! I went ahead and took the pig tails from the ac adapter and exposed the bare wire and made my own adapters. Or I supposed you could also do a terminal block and wire it all in that way.