The pig shows a pig tail for the neutral yet the switch has a place for Live and Load neutral. Any reason to pig tail?
1067295
The pig tail u c is antena... Tip do not hard wire with solid copper, use soft stranded wire from extension cords then splice with solid copper wires. The unit does not hold connections with solid copper wire very well.
1067296
We haven't been able to install this yet, so I can't comment. The house we are temporarily in does not have grounded switches.
1649081
The neutrals are not switched and they should never be. The neutral is connected to the house ground at one point only, typically at power entrance. TIP: Since you are not using the TCA1006D at entrance, make sure that the neutral bus inside the transfer switch is not grounded (remove the grounding screw).
1476406
That is a normal installation of manual switches. The hot lead switches between the other two as does the other switch (slave). When they are both on the same lead the load gets power. on different leads the load is off. This switch uses the traveler to switch the slave. So in a few less words NO.
2047128
It has pig tails; it has a short black, and a short white wire in a junction box on the back, b/c it is meant to be either: hardwired by an electrician, or it needs a machine cord wired to it.
2039738
The way the switch works is if the primary power source fails it will auto switch it and you wouldnt even notice it. If you want to split the loads you have to run seperate wiring.
2148200
this one is a wire in kind, there is no where to run a pig tail out of the front to be able to plug in
232982
Sorry you are out of luck. This particular switch requires 3 wires and a ground - you should return it. Some other switches only require 2 wires. Your two wires are both "hot", usually black wires, the line and load they are called. This switch also requires white/neutral and should also be grounded - green.
1052846
When you flip the switch on, it lites both sides. Guess you could add a pull-string toggle switch and wire to one side, and use existing switch for the other side....
2120503
No switch. Output via load side is continuous as long as panel is generating power.
1006946
As I recall, the switch has 3 wires that need to be connected. One wire is connected to the power source (hot), one wire is connected to the neutral, and the third wire goes to the load (light or receptacle, or device). This switch requires a neutral connection. I do not recall a ground wire or connection. I have used this device for a year, and found it to work just as advertised. The wire leads are 12 gauge wire.
2096506
Check for proper wiring on the slave switch. Sounds like the neutral and tracer are reversed.
1968472
You're probably thrown off because it had two sets of terminals. That's so you can run these in series. You can attach neutral to either one of the terminals of one pair and vice versa for hot, and it doesn't matter which one. So if you only have one wire, you have one empty terminal on each side.
2263357
It sounds to me, that you already had the load attached to the 12V side, before you attached the 36v side. If that is the case, you should expect a spark. My suggestion, is to connect the 36v side, before you attach the load to the 12v side. Even then, you might very well see a spark when you attach the load. What you are seeing, is what normally happens inside a switch, when it is turned on. Your attaching two wires together is the same as closing a switch, the difference is that you are seeing what is happening when a load is added to a circuit.
316849
It has a lip on the end. It hangs from the source plug. The load plugs in directly below and the load plug is protected by the lip.
87602
There is a wiring (pigtail) that might need changed. It is supplied in box.
625506
You do not have to use pig tail if you do not want to I would use one wire stalation which you just put wire to positive side of battery
347404
I have been using the neutral wires in all of my installations. I'm not sure how it will operate if not connected.