Holes in wall? Is there a way to safely install without having to make any holes in our walls? Or for the best strength, would I secure to wall?
1040781
Our banister has posts on either end, so we just zip-tied the ends of the plastic to the post in lieu of holes in the wall. Works great! You could probably get away with zip-tying the closet post to the wall (if you don't have/I can't fit a zip tie around end post), provided it's close enough to the wall that a kid couldn't push through (difficult feat). Advise using zip ties that match post color: dark or brown of clear on brown, for example ties vs white on brown-blends in better. Also, fasten zip ties on the side the child won't be on to avoid sharp edges left when zip ties are trimmed at the end.
1040782
Our banister has posts on either end, so we just zip-tied the ends of the plastic to the post in lieu of holes in the wall. Works great! You could probably get away with zip-tying the closet post to the wall (if you don't have/I can't fit a zip tie around end post), provided it's close enough to the wall that a kid couldn't push through (difficult feat). Advise using zip ties that match post color: dark or brown of clear on brown, for example ties vs white on brown-blends in better. Also, fasten zip ties on the side the child won't be on to avoid sharp edges left when zip ties are trimmed at the end. Our banister has posts on either end, so we just zip-tied the ends of the plastic to the post in lieu of holes in the wall. Works great! You could probably get away with zip-tying the closet post to the wall (if you don't have/I can't fit a zip tie around end post), provided it's close enough to the wall that a kid couldn't push through (difficult feat). Advise using zip ties that match post color: dark or brown of clear on brown, for example ties vs white on brown-blends in better. Also, fasten zip ties on the side the child won't be on to avoid sharp edges left when zip ties are trimmed... » Read More Our banister has posts on either end, so we just zip-tied the ends of the plastic to the post in lieu of holes in the wall. Works great! You could probably get away with zip-tying the closet post to the wall (if you don't have/I can't fit a zip tie around end post), provided it's close enough to the wall that a kid couldn't push through (difficult feat). Advise using zip ties that match post color: dark or brown of clear on brown, for example ties vs white on brown-blends in better. Also, fasten zip ties on the side the child won't be on to avoid sharp edges left when zip ties are trimmed at the end. « Show Less
1040783
You secure the middle part with ties to the ballisters. The ends are secured with screws into the end ballisters.
2113376
Yes,I did....go to Home Depot or the like & get some 2 inch wide Industrial Strength Velcro & put a full ength strip top & bottom or even around all 4 sides & do the matching strips on your wall or wherever & you're good to go. Tip; once you apply the strips to the wall & to the Unit let both fully adhere over 24 hours say,before you mount the piece. Technically you don't have to but I find the Velcro sticky side adheres better long term if you don't immediately mount the Unit.Good Luck,CJ
80777
we had to screw it in. sometimes you can by a double sided sticker for these things that might work. you still leave a martk on the wall but do not make a hole -ali
1059383
Probably too late to help you in particular, but...Just use plastic wall anchors and then screws to fasten to regular wall. Metal anchors if masonry wall. Increases the load the screws can hold
2184671
Just need a drill to make holes in the wall for the anchor mounts (I suppose you could twist / push a large phillips head screwdriver through a sheet rock wall if you were careful, but make sure it's not larger than the anchors), and a screwdriver to screw the screws in. Might want to put a level up too so it's not mounted crooked when you're done.FYI mine did not align with studs, so I used those special expanding sheet rock wall anchors
1204370
Hi! I'm not sure how to answer the question since I presume you know that it has to be secured to the wall in some manner? If you mean specifically a hammer and nails, the answer is no, but you will be screwing in screws. I believe I made approximately 8 holes in the wall per unit. I hope I've helped!
694095
I would check with a professional carpenter if you have or will be putting in a wall unit. It's a different project from what I took on as a DIY.
1147636
If installing in drywall don't use anchors that come with unit buy heavy duty ones at home depot. Also the unit has two predrilled holes I suggest putting another on in. Only costs a couple $$$ and you won't have to worry about the weight on the wall. As far as how much can it hold when desk is out... you can't sit on it ;). But it holds the weight of a laptop books and your arms fine.
2071746
it is screwed to the wall, so you would have holes in the wall but other than that...it is possible.
1628960
I used and recommend anchors in drywall. The included ones that came with the block were nice beefy ones and I used them. I have to think screws alone into drywall would work loose over time. If you have any wobble after the install you could tighten the screws a bit more into the anchors until the final install is flush and firm to the wall. This mounts by slots on the back of the block sliding onto the screw heads so you control how tight the install is to the wall.
436020
You don't need to secure it to a wall with screws. After the bottom section is put together place it on the wall to see if the shelves are aligned. If not make adjustments and continue with the top section.
1913135
At good 'ol 'Wally World' (Walmart) the sell a velcro called "INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH" which you could probably frame a house with! Pretty basic stuff - one side on speaker, 1 on wall, remove plastic film from back of each exposing the adhesive surface... well, you see where I'm going with this :P Stuff is no joke either, in the event of an F5, in it's wake you will find a couple slivers of wall left a-fixed to the foundation with a speaker stuck too 'em. After discovering this stuff its a short list of things in my home NOT velcro'd to something. I recently remounted the engine in my car using it... ;P Oh and if you'd like to mount them in corners: scrap piece of plywood, square, saw, 45 degree angles... again, you get it. Just throwing the suggestion out there. Every wall mount speaker I've owned since this discovery has been mounted in this fashion. Even if they come with mounting hardware I use this method - the ease, security, and convenience just so far outweighs the pros of any other method I've seen.
194449
These are designed to be bolted to a backing. I am not sure how you are planning to secure it to the wall. Are you thinking a corse threaded bolt? Either way you would need to either have the backing or perhaps install them into studs. I don't think this is what you need
43291
Dear friend,I did not secure it to the wall. It stands there stably. You are able to put something such as small piece of thin wood or sth. else underneath its front lower cornerpoints in order to make sure it is stable.
335989
If you did you would have to secure it to the wall somehow maybe by nailing it. I would advise against it though.
998168
I wouldn't trust wallboard alone. Needs to be anchored in 2x4 below the wallboard. Same with wood paneling.
1754465
I used drywall screws (instead of the screws that come with it), and it seems pretty secure in the drywall. The mounting holes are about 28" apart, so you will not be able to get both sides in a stud. It's not that heavy though, so it shouldn't be a problem.