Can someone explain this spec?*Maximum Load: 10A per channel / 20A totalI would've thought that being a 4 channel dimmer, if it is rated at 20 A max, then it would've been rataed at 5A per channel not 10 A per channel. What am I missing? Can someone explain this spec?*Maximum Load: 10A per channel / 20A totalI would've thought that being a 4 channel dimmer, if it is rated at 20 A max, then it... » Read More Can someone explain this spec?*Maximum Load: 10A per channel / 20A totalI would've thought that being a 4 channel dimmer, if it is rated at 20 A max, then it would've been rataed at 5A per channel not 10 A per channel. What am I missing? « Show Less
1035840
I completely understand your logic I'll let me help explain. The entire dinner is 20 A maximum. Each channel can handle 10 amps each. For example you can put 10amps on channel 1 and 10amps on channel 2 but if you put any more load on channel 3 or 4 the entire dinner will be overloaded. This allows flexibility if you want more or less loads (beyond just 5amps)... Within the 20amp max total.Hope this helps.
1035841
The device is good for a total max of 20A. Each channel is good for a max of 10A. If you max out 2 channels, then you cant use the other 2 channels. This allows you to have one channel with 10A, and 3 with 3.3A each. Just gives flexibility.
1021138
My guess would be it's either defective or you have too much load on it. I believe it is rated for 18amps (6amps x 3 channels).
335763
This is perfect for something as demanding as a high current bathroom heater. Most light switches and timers are rated for 15 or 20 amps, which can accommodate 1800 or 2400 watts respectively. Try to imagine 18 or 24 100 watt light bulbs (1800 or 2400 watt) being turned on at once. No big deal?? Not unless you decided to save a couple of bucks and buy the lower rated switch/timer (15 amps) and turn on the 24 light bulbs. It will work just fine...for a very short time. Heaters generally require a larger number of watts (wattage), anywhere from 800 to1600 watts or so, allow for spikes (headroom) and buy the heavier switch/timer...you then won't need to revisit this for many years. This is perfect for something as demanding as a high current bathroom heater. Most light switches and timers are rated for 15 or 20 amps, which can accommodate 1800 or 2400 watts respectively. Try to imagine 18 or 24 100 watt light bulbs (1800 or 2400 watt) being turned on at once. No big deal?? Not unless you decided to save a couple of bucks and buy the lower rated switch/timer (15 amps) and turn on the 24 light bulbs. It will work just fine...for a very short time. Heaters generally require a larger number of watts (wattage), anywhere from 800 to1600 watts or so, allow for spikes... » Read More This is perfect for something as demanding as a high current bathroom heater. Most light switches and timers are rated for 15 or 20 amps, which can accommodate 1800 or 2400 watts respectively. Try to imagine 18 or 24 100 watt light bulbs (1800 or 2400 watt) being turned on at once. No big deal?? Not unless you decided to save a couple of bucks and buy the lower rated switch/timer (15 amps) and turn on the 24 light bulbs. It will work just fine...for a very short time. Heaters generally require a larger number of watts (wattage), anywhere from 800 to1600 watts or so, allow for spikes (headroom) and buy the heavier switch/timer...you then won't need to revisit this for many years. « Show Less
1679938
From my understanding 7.2 watts per ten modules. 20 sets of ten modules is 200 modules. Which mathematically needs 144 watts. I'm not an electrician but you might lose some brightness if you plan to string them all together. I've read about an amp you can wire in after so many strings but can no longer find that literature. -I'm not an electrician but hope that helps.
459675
The instruction for this dimmer state "Do not use where total lamp wattage is less than 40 W or greater than 300 W". The user that stated the 13.5 watt Feit LED bulbs work must be using 3 or more so that the 40 watt minimum. that the user manual requires is being met.
2228315
I've been running one for about a year now, no problems except I was using the load output to control some outside lighting (on at dusk, off at dawn) and it seemed to get confused and was turning the lights on and off randomly. I disconnected it and let it sit for a day and then reconnected it and it has been working correctly since. I am running a 100 WATT 12V panel into it, are you staying within the maximum input power and voltage levels (12v/260W or 24v/520W) specified?
1978304
This is a more complex problem than it would seem. I tend to use overkill when sizing wire to a given load. In addition, a friend replaced all of my fixtures original quartz halogen bulbs with LED's that draw less current. And generally speaking, it is not just the load in amperes, but the length of the wire run in feet that determines the wire gauge needed. I would suggest that you employ someone with knowledge in electronics to size and determine your layout. This is especially true if your layout is complex and heavily loaded. I wish I could be of more help, but I have to hire an electrician. Good luck! This is a more complex problem than it would seem. I tend to use overkill when sizing wire to a given load. In addition, a friend replaced all of my fixtures original quartz halogen bulbs with LED's that draw less current. And generally speaking, it is not just the load in amperes, but the length of the wire run in feet that determines the wire gauge needed. I would suggest that you employ someone with knowledge in electronics to size and determine your layout. This is especially true if your layout is complex and heavily loaded. I wish I could be of more help, but I have to hire an... » Read More This is a more complex problem than it would seem. I tend to use overkill when sizing wire to a given load. In addition, a friend replaced all of my fixtures original quartz halogen bulbs with LED's that draw less current. And generally speaking, it is not just the load in amperes, but the length of the wire run in feet that determines the wire gauge needed. I would suggest that you employ someone with knowledge in electronics to size and determine your layout. This is especially true if your layout is complex and heavily loaded. I wish I could be of more help, but I have to hire an electrician. Good luck! « Show Less
1564683
I've installed several of these with mixed results...Most have failed completely, and I've tried to return two each that have never been opened without any results...There are better products available for less money...!!!Try Amazon #B004X4O1NG - EVER RF Dimmer of LED Strips, LED Ribbon, LED Lights, Wireless ControlThese are the best buy and I've experienced no failures and in power outages they return to whatever state they were in prior top the outage.Good luck
449850
These are a little bluish, maybe around what you're looking for. I'd guess that they're a little higher than 7000K. Felix is correct that these are very bright when run at ~13.5 to 14.0V, I run mine at 13.8V. Lahiru is dong something wrong. FYI, if your strip is longer than, maybe, 10' I'd run the supply wires to both ends. If I ran the full 30' strip I'd run the supply to both ends and the middle. Why? Because there will be enough of a voltage drop along the copper traces on the strip that the LED's on the end will be noticeably dimmer if you only connect to one end.
159349
I bought it for LED bulbs in the hall. In one fixture I had 60W brightness, in the other 40W. It dimmed both, but the one fixture dimmed all the way to out while the other one was still on a bit, but it worked fine for me. The LED light color did not change to more yellow that I could see as it dimmed. There was no buzzing or any issues.
382039
I ordered mine for controlling LED strip arrays, but there is no reason why this product could not control any type of lighting that uses 12 VDC as long as the current limits are observed. From an initial contact with this firm, I understand this device has a maximum rating of 60 watts, which would equate to a current draw of 5 amps at 12 VDC. As an electronics technologist of long standing, I normally would not run any controlling device at any more than 80% of it's maximum load and would prefer to use only 60% of load maximum for long life. That would mean no more than about 35-40 watts in normal use. Hope this helps...
1229980
That would be a question for Lutron. Depends I guess on the amount of electricity running through it and I have no idea what the limits of this dimmer switch are.
1866843
Richard, what you ask is a logical question... since 12/2 (or as 'they' call it 12/3) wire is `supposed' to be able to carry a 20 amp load. Perhaps it's because the wire used in the cord is "stranded" instead of solid core (as is 12/2 romex), or it could be because of the plugs used (since 12 gauge stranded/solid is 'supposed' to carry the same ampacity). Anyways, I believe it's a question best suited to be answered by the manufacturer instead of me. All I can vouch for is that I have put a higher load on it than the 15 amp listed, and the wire or plugs never got hot (or even warm), and the breaker never popped off. Richard, what you ask is a logical question... since 12/2 (or as 'they' call it 12/3) wire is `supposed' to be able to carry a 20 amp load. Perhaps it's because the wire used in the cord is "stranded" instead of solid core (as is 12/2 romex), or it could be because of the plugs used (since 12 gauge stranded/solid is 'supposed' to carry the same ampacity). Anyways, I believe it's a question best suited to be answered by the manufacturer instead of me. All I can vouch for is that I have put a higher load on it than the 15 amp listed, and the wire or plugs never got hot (or... » Read More Richard, what you ask is a logical question... since 12/2 (or as 'they' call it 12/3) wire is `supposed' to be able to carry a 20 amp load. Perhaps it's because the wire used in the cord is "stranded" instead of solid core (as is 12/2 romex), or it could be because of the plugs used (since 12 gauge stranded/solid is 'supposed' to carry the same ampacity). Anyways, I believe it's a question best suited to be answered by the manufacturer instead of me. All I can vouch for is that I have put a higher load on it than the 15 amp listed, and the wire or plugs never got hot (or even warm), and the breaker never popped off. « Show Less
578565
Don't know the technical details, but you won't have that problem with this one. You might even find it to be too much. I've read some people use light switch type dimmers to lower the power and I believe it.
182979
I have one 6602 in the dining room controlling a 5-LED-bulb ceiling lamp which is able to do a nearly perfect job dimming those Osram (Sylvannia) 40 watt dimmable lights. The very same bulb, only one in a different room with a 6602 from the same batch even, only works from about 20-25% of the range up to maybe 90-95%? Go figure. The added resistance of 5 LED bulbs (making it closer to an incandescent load perhaps?) makes the difference, seemingly. Not bad after all...no flickering at all (so far) in either location. That part is about the LED brand (design, implementation, components quality...) I think. Some Philips are very reliable too I heard/read. I have one 6602 in the dining room controlling a 5-LED-bulb ceiling lamp which is able to do a nearly perfect job dimming those Osram (Sylvannia) 40 watt dimmable lights. The very same bulb, only one in a different room with a 6602 from the same batch even, only works from about 20-25% of the range up to maybe 90-95%? Go figure. The added resistance of 5 LED bulbs (making it closer to an incandescent load perhaps?) makes the difference, seemingly. Not bad after all...no flickering at all (so far) in either location. That part is about the LED brand (design, implementation, components... » Read More I have one 6602 in the dining room controlling a 5-LED-bulb ceiling lamp which is able to do a nearly perfect job dimming those Osram (Sylvannia) 40 watt dimmable lights. The very same bulb, only one in a different room with a 6602 from the same batch even, only works from about 20-25% of the range up to maybe 90-95%? Go figure. The added resistance of 5 LED bulbs (making it closer to an incandescent load perhaps?) makes the difference, seemingly. Not bad after all...no flickering at all (so far) in either location. That part is about the LED brand (design, implementation, components quality...) I think. Some Philips are very reliable too I heard/read. « Show Less
1349573
Hello Scott,I wanted to double check before replying. Maximum wattage is 40 per bulb, hence a total of 120 wattage per lantern. Also, we live in a very rural area and it's very dark so we purchased two of these lanterns, one regular and one planter style. It does brighten the area up considerably and they are set on dawn to dusk mode so for the past year we have not had to replace them yet; I personally wouldn't mind things a bit brighter and may look into the newer 40 watt bulbs that actually give off more light or lumens when we replace the bulbs. The lantern itself is a quality product - would recommend. Hope this was helpful. Hello Scott,I wanted to double check before replying. Maximum wattage is 40 per bulb, hence a total of 120 wattage per lantern. Also, we live in a very rural area and it's very dark so we purchased two of these lanterns, one regular and one planter style. It does brighten the area up considerably and they are set on dawn to dusk mode so for the past year we have not had to replace them yet; I personally wouldn't mind things a bit brighter and may look into the newer 40 watt bulbs that actually give off more light or lumens when we replace the bulbs. The lantern itself is a quality... » Read More Hello Scott,I wanted to double check before replying. Maximum wattage is 40 per bulb, hence a total of 120 wattage per lantern. Also, we live in a very rural area and it's very dark so we purchased two of these lanterns, one regular and one planter style. It does brighten the area up considerably and they are set on dawn to dusk mode so for the past year we have not had to replace them yet; I personally wouldn't mind things a bit brighter and may look into the newer 40 watt bulbs that actually give off more light or lumens when we replace the bulbs. The lantern itself is a quality product - would recommend. Hope this was helpful. « Show Less
364579
To my knowledge 5 amps is fine to run through this. It should be rated for 4 amps per channel allowing a maximum of 12 amps. Another thing to add is that this dmx controller does not play well with strip led amplifiers. Especially when it comes to dimming.