Is this fan certified for installation in an attic? I'm more concerned with temperature control as well(vs humidity), how should I set the controller?
1047765
I would not use this in a attic. It will not move enough air and is not set for temp
1047766
I don't know about it being "certified" for the attic, but it's really designed solely for humidity control - not temperature control. There are other fans that are equipped with a thermostat that are more appropriate for attic installation.
1047767
It was made specifically for a crawlspace to pull out the humidity. It does not have a temperature gauge. I turned the controller dial just enough until it turned the fan on. You may set it as high as you like depending on the humidity in your crawlspace. There are fans made specifically for attics.
1047768
This unit is designed for crawlspace installation rather than attic installation. I no longer own the property where I installed the unit, so I don't have the manufacturer's documentation, but I would assume it is not certified for attic use. The controller is a humidistat, not a thermostat, so this is not the unit for your application.
1047769
This particular fan is mainly sold, designed, & intended for crawl space use. Although it's possible that it might work in an attic,there is a better alternative. Both Lowe's & I believe that Home Depot might carry exactly what is specifically designed for attic use. Lowe's carries both gable mounted & through the roof fans that have both a thermostat & a humidistat for removing heat or humidity from the attic. Normally the thermostat is set somewhere between 90 & 100 degrees & the humidistat is set somewhere between 60 & 70 percent. Both adjustments can be changed to suit the user & particular conditions in your attic. I have a through the roof model in one house & a gable mounted fan in the other & both do a fantastic job! The gable mounted fan is a little easier to install. I think either one of these fans would-be a better choice & do a better job than a crawl space fan! I hope this information has been helpful to you.
1274062
The fan does NOT have a speed control though I believe they sell one (separately) now, however it is butt ugly so depending on where you place it that may or may not work for you. I tried several variable speed switches that are for ceiling fans but none of them worked; it was either on full speed or off.
1094080
This thermostat has a small controller that wires in between the fan and the wiring in your home. As long as that controller can be tucked in out of site behind the mounting shroud, you'll be okay. I believe it will work with most fans out there.
1721759
I have no idea on that. You would need to contact the manufacturer. We ended up adding another fan in our attic because it is so big. They don't require much power at all. You can't even hear them going. Boy have they made a huge difference in our electric bill.
2065745
I wired my fan to a switch and hard wired the humidity sensor.This ensures that the fan will come on when the humidity levels rise (when taking a shower) whether the switch is on or offYes, the fan could randomly come on in the summer if the humidity levels are higher (you can adjust the sensitivity of the sensor), but isn't that the point of the fan? Plus it costs less than pennies to run.
1200505
You can control the fan from multiple switches, they need to be wired in parallel - no need for 3-way switches (or these can be timers, again don't have to be 3-way, just ensure they're rated for this fan). Here's some good info. on this subject, with wiring diagram: http://www.hvacquick.com/howtos/howto_fd60em.phpI just bought this fan, and doing the same thing so I was looking for that answer as well. Also important to note, use insulated duct in the attic otherwise you'll end up with condensation dripping off the ducts.Disclaimer: I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN! If you're unsure, hire an electrician. You can control the fan from multiple switches, they need to be wired in parallel - no need for 3-way switches (or these can be timers, again don't have to be 3-way, just ensure they're rated for this fan). Here's some good info. on this subject, with wiring diagram: http://www.hvacquick.com/howtos/howto_fd60em.phpI just bought this fan, and doing the same thing so I was looking for that answer as well. Also important to note, use insulated duct in the attic otherwise you'll end up with condensation dripping off the ducts.Disclaimer: I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN! If... » Read More You can control the fan from multiple switches, they need to be wired in parallel - no need for 3-way switches (or these can be timers, again don't have to be 3-way, just ensure they're rated for this fan). Here's some good info. on this subject, with wiring diagram: http://www.hvacquick.com/howtos/howto_fd60em.phpI just bought this fan, and doing the same thing so I was looking for that answer as well. Also important to note, use insulated duct in the attic otherwise you'll end up with condensation dripping off the ducts.Disclaimer: I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN! If you're unsure, hire an electrician. « Show Less
991232
Mine has been installed in my attic for about a year and a half. I leave it on for weeks at a time when the humidity is up. It's had several months of continuous operation so far summer and winter. Manual says mounting location not to exceed 140f. Max daytime temps here are mid 100's. No issues with fan and still quiet as ever.
794695
Oh man, I'd double check your wiring.From the overly complicated instructions this is what it boils down to. (for me)-Control boxPower from positive terminal of batteryGround from negative terminal of batteryOptional ign. Switch power. (hook up for fan to only operate when key is "on".-FanPositive power from control boxGround from control boxMake sure all wires are on proper contactsDouble check all electrical connectionsShould have nothing to do with the temp probe itself, because with the temp turned all the way down, the fan will activate. Oh man, I'd double check your wiring.From the overly complicated instructions this is what it boils down to. (for me)-Control boxPower from positive terminal of batteryGround from negative terminal of batteryOptional ign. Switch power. (hook up for fan to only operate when key is "on".-FanPositive power from control boxGround from control boxMake sure all wires are on proper contactsDouble check all electrical connectionsShould have nothing to do with the temp probe itself, because with the temp turned... » Read More Oh man, I'd double check your wiring.From the overly complicated instructions this is what it boils down to. (for me)-Control boxPower from positive terminal of batteryGround from negative terminal of batteryOptional ign. Switch power. (hook up for fan to only operate when key is "on".-FanPositive power from control boxGround from control boxMake sure all wires are on proper contactsDouble check all electrical connectionsShould have nothing to do with the temp probe itself, because with the temp turned all the way down, the fan will activate. « Show Less
1716460
No. The current and resistance is non-linear and the fan requires full voltage. The type of control you would need is one that does not provide variable resistance but rather a temperature activated relay for full "on" and full "off" as temperature changes.
2049165
Not sure I understand your question. The fan's on/off is controlled by the thermostat switch which is attached to the fan. You set what temperature you want the fan to turn on/off and it will operate at that temperature.
2181773
This thermostat is basically just a switch. It works on 120 and 240 Volt heaters so the fan load would not be a problem. But this thermostat is "on" (switch closed) when there is a demand for more heat. I assume you want to cool the house by use of the attic fan! So, this thermostat will not work in its current configuration.
1655144
Yes. The first one I had came with an attic fan. The function as the temp rises just close the circuit, just like any other switch. A great simple device.
2200186
Customer service said it's okay - "The unit will operate well in the environment you have described. The air being removed from the bathroom will be considerably cooler than the attic which will reduce the fan temperature as it passes through the fan."Regardless, you should install attic ventilation at the same time. 130 and higher is too much and damaging to your roof.
449725
BT, this solar fan, because it has a thermostat that opens @ 85F would only circulate hot, humid air. If you are looking to circulate air @ lower temps., you would most likely need a fan that was ac elect. and controlled manually with a switch. I suppose you could remove the thermostat and the fan would operate whenever there was enough sun for it to run.
1294304
Sorry but I can't find that anywhere on the motor or in the installation sheet. There are several things missing from the info they give you. Also the sizing they recommend is based on square footage, but should be on the cubic footage of the area to be vented. My fan works great, but does not adequately vent my attic despite what they state. I had to add 2 more box fans in order to get enough venting.
1879080
Hi Vincent, I just installed mine a couple weekends ago. In answer to your question, both lol. The control panel mounts onto your cold air return which you have to drill like a 3/4 inch hole for, so the humidistat that is on the back of the controller measures the humidity in your cold air return. It also wires into your furnace and thermostat wiring so it only kicks on when the furnace is running...
1112155
We hard wired it. You can very easily wire an extension into the electrical box on the fan and have it so you can plug it in. The speed control is built in. However we did put a (cool) thermostat with the system so when the room with the thermostat gets above the set temperature (Say 70 Degrees F) that it will automatically turn on and pull warm air into the room that is cooler. Hope this helps if not please leave another question.