I plan to use this spray to refinish an older formica table top. I also plan to pour Rustoleum's epoxy over it for a high gloss finish. Does anyone foresee any problems or issues?
1044524
I would think that it would work but I would use some course sand paper on the formica if it is a real smooth finish. Use the sand paper to rough up the surface so the paint will adhere better to the formica surface and give you a better painted surface that will last longer. Let the paint cure up to two days between coats of paint and two days before you use the epoxy. Hope this helps and good luck.
1044525
I painted 2 metal bird that I had outside & then sealed them with a spray epoxy once the painted cured a couple of days. I had no problems.
1044526
I used the verde green, and I found that it had pretty much of a medium glossy finish. I used it on an old gold/bronze chandelier 2 coats. This describes formicahttp://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/construction/materials/formica1.htm. I see no reason why it wouldn't work.
1557392
Since the top coat (or final finish) is an epoxy-type solution that was supplied with your kit, it probably won't hold up long enough with the proper consistency to be applied at some later time. Check with Rust-Oleum though; but my feeling is that you'll probably need to purchase more of the compound to get the finish that you want.
946235
I used it on some interior detailed brass statues They look great, and I expect the Brass Lacquer will preserve there brilliance for many years. I have a Copula on top of my Garage with a copper roof an a copper flying Goose weather vein on top. I haven't properly lacquered the roof yet but I did bring in the Goose & cleaned it very good & applied 2 coats of the Lacquer in October 2013 an it still looks great. It was the first time I had even thought about a protective coating to show off the copper finish. It seems a shame people purchase cooper or brass decorative outside attachments for their homes, as myself, and feel it the norm to let them fade to Patina (oxidation). When you can coat it and keep the cooper or brass luster you bought it for. I can't wait to Lacquer the Cupola roof. Longevity is a question an abuse from the elements, but for as good as it looks, it seems worth putting on the Spring Clean-up list. Hope this helps. Ya can't loose by trying. A proper cleaning & prep is the key before applying.
1064938
I used this over a oil based product. The Generals Gel Stain, oil based. It worked very well on a bathroom vanity. I am referring the wood cabinetry portion, not the top counter. I use a polyacryllic top coat on some water based paints, if I am not using a wax finish. I use a lot of chalk paint to re- purpose furniture. I will be trying a new paint by Amy Howard, for that I will use her wax for my finish. Amy Howard wax dries to hard finish without a "melt factor".
538120
Yes, I have done it many times. Just be careful not to remove too much of the original finish once it has melted with the Formby's. After you have evened it out, I suggest using the Formby's Tung Oil, really puts on a nice finish. Use multiple thin coats.
251439
I did just that this weekend. I put two thick coats of HNR then used dynamat extreme and it stuck very well. The only advice I could give is... make sure the surface is painted before applying HNR. You will see rust bleed through the next day if you don't. Happy sound deadening!
1090506
No - it will not give a flawless finish - sprays in a oval type pattern with a good coverage but can be hard to control precise spray pattern for detail work - great for table tops and larger areas but for detail not so good - easy to clean and mason jars are a plus for quick change over to other finishes. Works well for spraying stains but as said you have to play with the adjustments - it is a inexpensive sprayer but it works well and I would buy it again - I use another higher quality gun for detail work - over all I think you will like it and the price is good.
2109861
I have with no ill effects. It will not give you the shine that you can get from painting on a liquid finish though.
1333548
Hi Jenny. I wish I could give you a positive answer but there are so many variables when spraying over a painted surface. The best I can offer is that I feel pretty confident that it would work (but no guarantee). My suggestion would be to spray several coats of the spray and it should certainly dull the surface. The product dries quickly, usually within a few minutes so you can respray without too much waiting. Best regards, Harve E.
1524832
Yes, I love this stuff and have applied it to several table tops. I usually pour it right on the table surface and hand rub it with an old t shirt. Coats go on quick and thin but they also dry quick. After 20 minutes or so it is ready for another coat. Also, if the wood you tested on was not smooth or maybe not stained yet (bare wood) it may absorb faster or soak into the pores more than on a stained piece. This finish is nice for when you have the color you want and don't want it to change after you apply the finish coat. Polyurethane is bad about changing the color after application. This will leave a nice sheen finish with minimal color change. Like I said each coat is thin, but I honesty prefer this method compared to thick coats. After two coats hand sand the surface very lightly with a high grit (320 -400) to smooth it out. After this the next few coats go on very nicely.
514281
It will enhance the gloss look as well as provide a little of additional protection. When I did my floor I've used the Rust-Oleum Professional kits in gray. After doing two coats of the Pro kit the shine was there but some spots had a little duller look to it. After applying this gloss kit it really brought the look of the floor to a nice consistent shine all around. I'm sure you might have heard before but the key in a long lasting finish is the prep as well as using a decent quality product. Stay away from water based and use solids based stuff. My garage floor was a 30 year old bare concrete slab which came out great in the end. My prep involved a floor buffer with a diamond wheel, then pressure washed it few times as well as concrete etch. Here's a picture of the floor after two coats of Professional kit: http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5161.jpg Here's a picture of the floor after the Clear Shield: http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5169.jpg http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p501/mbzowski/Garage%20Redo/IMG_5166.jpg
2033477
That would be along the lines of what this sprayer was meant for. However, I'd be inclined to believe that it's better suited for traditional enamels such as you could buy in quart cans at a home center. I don't know that I'd want to spray any hot lacquers through it, or anything too exotic such as two part isocyanates or anything else where you'll want to be wearing a 'space suit' and breathing through a supplied air respirator. Now, those could work! But I've never tried it, and I'd want to hear from someone who has before attempting it. Rustoleum or the like, absolutely. Do be sure to properly thin whatever you spray, of course.
87135
I've used it many times over varnished wood, and had very good results. Most people, these days, seem to skip the middle steps of sanding and wiping down, and are pleased enough with the results. I prefer to do it old school and reap the benefits. Even 1-2-3 will adhere better if you break the gloss, first. Your end results are only as good as your preparation. If the chair is old, it may be shellac and not actually varnish. Zinsser also makes a shellac-based product called B-I-N. Both work really well.
1435074
this is very unusual! normally this stuff turns black in a very short time over all surfaces,painted or rusty. i've been using this stuff for years and i highly recommend putting down some rustoleum metal primer over all treated surfaces,no matter what the label says about not needing any primer. did you shake the container enough,i wonder?
2014471
I'm compulsive, so I would probably at least sand the edges of the paint. When I used the product, I followed the directions on the can faithfully, and so far the stuff seems amazing. It turned the rust black and I could not tell that rust had been there before.
2226021
I cannot answer your question directly because I have not done what you want to do. However, I did paint the converted rust without any problems and it has held up very well. I think an issue would be where one of the solvents in your the bondo or epoxy starts attacking the converted rust. If I were you, I would convert a small area and then test it with some of your material. I think you want to be sure not to put any of repairing material over rust which has not been converted or removed entirely. Keep it mind that converted rust is textured, whereas the repaired surface probably will be smoother, or at least noticeably different. There are other similar products on the market which have FAQs. You may want to do an online search for them. Also, YouTube has many videos of repairing cars which were rust converted. I think there's one which discuses your concerns. Good luck.
302631
I haven't done any house painting with this set up. I wouldn't think it to be the best for that use. All house painters I've seen spraying have been using airless outfits. Viscosity of exterior house paint could be a problem. I spray pre-catalyzed lacquer that is much thinner than exterior latex.