If I use Krud Kutter metal cleaner and etcher before I paint do I still need a product like this Duplicolor primer?
1070915
Not sure about the difference but this is necessary if painting over brass or metal and adheres nicely. I did door hinges with it and they look great.
1791125
I wouldn't -- wrong formula. Instead, look at the line of artist's fixatives and sprays made by Krylon. They're designed to do just that -- protect paper artwork and printed material from moisture, yellowing, smudges, etc. Read their descriptions and you'll be able to choose which one sounds like the protection you're looking for.
510591
hmmm i am german, i hope you understand what i am trying to say. The dehyndrant sucks out the wet, and the primer is a primer.... to make 2different materiale easier to stick to eachother. if you use both, than use the dehyndrant first , wait until all drys (about 5sec) and use it really thin and than the primer really thin as well.... all AFTER buffing naIL. my nails last for about 4-5weeks this way
1529622
Yes the hardware to install is included and yes it is painted with a primer. You may want to add a finish coat for increased protection. Just grab a spray can of Krylon or Rusteum.
1093236
Here is what their website states to the question: CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS? "Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal." My preference would be POR 15 directly on the metal ( after cleaning/prepping) and then primer and paint.
340598
Absolutely! Today I was polishing a car with both single stage black enamel and lacquer and it works exceedingly well. Even using a wool pad, you would be impressed at how nicely it finishes. As others state, you will need to follow with M205 or something to refine the marks left from compounding. In other words, it is not a one-step product. Worked *carefully* with a microfiber applicator or towel, it can be used by hand, but I would only recommend this in spot applications.
751193
Of course, but this begs the question, "What is the intended outcome of doing this?". If you are trying to color a surface, then seal it, mixing the two products would seem to have the potential to compromise the effectiveness of both products [the sealer will dilute the coloring agent and/or the coloring agent dilutes the sealer]. Why not color first, then seal?
2163643
SHORT ANSWER- Not So. While plain water is better as long as your car is cleaned (you may find when you have enough Klasse Sealant on your car's surface that road grime, bird sh_ _ etc. doesn't stick). I used this product a couple decades ago and didn't find again until recently; and on my Miata, have done two coats of their polish glaze, and followed with four separate applications on the Klasse High Gloss Sealant. (In my experience you need a minimum of two coats to be sure of a proper application. With the Klasse FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS ON APPLYING ONLY SMALL AMOUNTS ON APPLICATOR is a MUST, and personally apply in North-South in one coat and followed by second coat going East-West, again to ensure 100% coverage. Follow Klasse Instructions and do each coat a day apart. The is an acrylic sealant (believe it's same product from 20 years ago which was based on the same polymer used in plexiglass- oxidation is minimal from weather and chemically fairly inert; it is not a 'wax' which dries out where the acrylic polymer needs TIME to crosslink (bond) to the surface). OK the Klasse is on your car. IF you use any decent car shampoo, following instructions ( too concentrated or especially if allowed to dry on the car - can be bad as soap do tends to be caustic materials). Use per car shampoo instructions in a bucket, the clean car using a CLEAN rag (wash it as a gritty dirty towel will cause those light scratches you see on some cars other than mechanical washes).; then rinse with a lot of clean water. Wipe water off with a chamois cloth, wringing out as needed, then wipe down with microfiber cloth for final drying. There are some good sites with even better information on technique like Autogeek.net which also help. davzway
1217063
Hi Eric. It just so happens I have stumbled on a nice sealer/finisher, a totally matte spray by Deco Art, Americana. It is nicely clear, doesn't seem to yellow the paint and is just the ticket for the crackle medium. I found it on Amazon, and it may be a bit pricier than something you'd find in Home Depot type box store, but it works fine. I'm doing a big wall cupboard in crackle, and I am thinking about using it on a table if it's conducive to using as a dining top finish. Good luck! Terri C.
2197842
yes. and I did not use a primer however, use of a primer and paint would not be a bad idea if the door handle gets used a lot.
1915964
I believe it would, however I would lightly sand the metal surface so the primer can better grip it. Otherwise I feel the paint could peel off too easily. Just make sure you properly prepare your surfaces, especially the metal.
1145056
No need for any primer, ever. This paint is an Urethane-acrylic formula. It adheres to "hard-to-stick" surfaces, including polyurethane and varnish, without a primer. Use foam brushes. If 2 coats are desired, wait 24 hours, although it will be dry to touch after an hour or so. Don't rush to get to the second coat because you may have "draping effect." Light sanding with a high # black sandpaper followed by a tack cloth to remove all dust. If done well, this paint lasts almost forever, so take your time.
60843
Yes, I have used it over Duplicolor Perfect Match Acrylic Lacquer without any problems. I let the base coat dry for a few days first.
2125813
No, it is the finisher. Once you have created your design and applied jewels or whatever else, you apply it on top to seal the design and any ornaments for a clear gloss glasslike finish that saves the life of the polish and nail.
1829219
MY husband does all sort of auto detail work his reply is..." as with any sort of plastic enhancer/preserver you need to remove any sort of over spray or wipe over on to painted surfaces as soon as possible. However, none of such products including this one, will do anything more than leave a light film on today's clear coat paints. This product being extremely thin in consistency will wipe off rather quickly should you happen to get any on any painted surface. Any such items IF left on a painted surface are usually very easily removed using a light wiping of things such as wd40, bug tar remover, or even conventional rubbing alcohol. I might add, anytime any such mild solvent is used to remove anything from a painted surface, an fresh application of wax over the cleaned surface is a best practice.
1847817
Dear Simone, it would be helpful to know a bit more about the surface of the vanity: wood, wood composite, formica or another laminate or plastic? The Krud Kutter is very effective in removing just about anything, which is why it is reccomended as a pre-painting cleaner. For the price, you can't lose by trying. However, if the surface of your vanity is a natural product, like wood, I suggest that you use the product but not let it "sit" on the surface. If the "globe crap" doesn't lift on the first application, use the Krud Kutter a few times. You probably don't want it saturating the area you plan to stain. Having done a little refinishing, I would consider using a very fine steel wool (000 or 00) either with or after using the Krud Kutter. Make sure you wipe off all residue so your stain will work. Good luck.
1392060
Depends on what you have. If your paint is faded or in bad shape it wont matter. If your looking at a new paint job, it adds depth and gloss to your base color. For a touch up for scratches you'd want to use clear to blend in the repair. I don't however recommend this brand for anything other than small repairs. IT has to much reducer and Flashes (dries) to fast. Normally a fast drying paint is what you want but this stuff is drying as soon as it leaves the gun.