Stanley 20-800 Miter Box - 4 1/2 base board? Can this miter box handle that size of material?
1101946
The practical answer is 4 1/2" material is too large. If the material was 4", then it would be less "impossible". The hang-up would be: clamping the material to the box to hold it steady and supporting the length of the material. This box is just not designed to do this job. Having said that, I love a challenge: you might find a way to hold the material steady using clamps and setting up a temporary jig. I'm not suggesting this, but I would probably try since I own the box already. The best answer I can give you is this: this tool was never designed to do the kind of job you are contemplating. I suggest you go another route.
1836178
I'm sorry, I'm not sure. My project was 4.5" base molding. It's a sliding miter, I'm just not sure if you slide it all the way forward how many inches that would be. It's not in the description?
517452
I also have a C12RSH. I purchased a cheaper miter table and the saw is unstable. Due to the center of gravity on the saw, I had to slide it forward so much, the rollers did not line up with the fence on the saw. Just want to verify this stand works OK with such a heavy saw. I appreicate your input.
1250001
It might, but the longer the board the more it weighs and will wobble. The ends of 2x4s do not flush against each end.
2017991
Yes it will handle the one inch bits also. I think it is a quality product.
635105
I wouldn't mount a sliding miter saw but a 12'' should work just fine. I've been using this stand with a 10'' fixed miter saw and it works really well and is quite stable and it folds to a compact size. Surprising for the price. .
248042
Yes It Will Work On 3/4 Inch Thick Material. And I Have A Box Extra From My Project That I Am Willing To Sell. Bvhs41 At Yahoo.
1456
I think it would work just fine for 1/4" T&G.; If anything, it is better for thinner materials. Remember to test using scrap pieces to get the setting correct.
195531
Ric, I use a 10" Portercable miter compound saw. I do not bolt it down on to the frame. Since I move it around. I cut a 3/4 plywood for where the saw will sit. When I get a chance to make up some bolts with wing nuts. So I can quickly take it apart and store it. I google your saw and say yes it would work. Have use this stand to cut trim for base, crown. Made in China, :(. But. So is Dewlat. Hope this help.
1300605
Manual says 1.5 inches. I've cut 2x4s no problem.The frame miter attachment says .75 inches on thickness.
837304
This box is a pretty heavy duty. If you have it on a strong base it should be fine.
996049
Don, I'VE used this stand to hold 8foot long, 6X6 pressure treated pieces, using a Dewalt Sawzall. It wobbles, but the table vise hold the material. My vexation with the piece is that it was annoying to assemble, it wants to flop out and unfold when you carry it. And, it is not nearly as stable as the earlier models. It is a cheap price for a below average piece. Dave
1590221
No stupid questions --- only stupid answers! Yes, in theory this could be used with one of those simple wood miter boxes. One would need clamps or some other way to secure the workpiece to a table as this saw usually requires two hands to make a nice cut.
1610814
No. this is not a miter box saw. It has a stiffening bar on it as you can see. That stiffener will not fit in a miter box slot and you only have about 1.5 inches of depth of cut before you'd hit that stiffener bar. However, its a a good saw with many different uses (and it works very well for those uses) and I'm glad to have it. But its not a miter box saw.
1262899
Hi Holly, I am not familiar with the Stanley board bender, but I imagine they all work about the same way. We used this tool on 5/4x6 Tigerwood decking and it did a great job. The price for the tool was well worth the money.Dee
1850244
Considering the "box" is plastic it will not be very rugged to be begin with. I doubt your needs will be met.
947197
The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material... » Read More The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. « Show Less