For poly and epoxy surfboards, what would be recommended for each, with minimum yellowing & easiest to sand and maybe even polish after 600/1000grit?
1083885
The Solarez Polyester Gloss is a UV-protected (weatherable) finish. It is the easiest to sand and bring to a lustre. On an epoxy board, if you used a non-cycloaliphatic epoxy, the polyester would not be good. You'd need an intermediary layer of our vinyl ester epoxy, which is compatible with both epoxy and polyester
1083886
sorry - we used to call it "laminating" resin. Now we just call it "Dual -Cure Low VOC polyester http://www.solarez.com/productsnew/lowvocgall.html
1083887
Hi againGood question and very important. You really do not want to use a GLOSS resin as a laminating resin because it has a surfacing agent mixed-in. It can cause delaminations. Polyester LAMINATING would be the call
188320
I use an X-Acto #1 knife with a few #11 size blades. These are great. I highly recommend a Tamiya 74001 Side Cutter for Plastic (or similar product but the Tamiya one is top quality) to remove parts from the trees. For glue, old fashioned Testors tube glue is handy for the main hull parts and sticking some of the small parts in place. For overall gluing, I use Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement. Some Tamiya Basic (grey) putty will be handy for the hull seam, if that kind of thing is important. You can get some assorted wet and dry sandpaper from a local hardware store to smooth out the putty. I chose not to use the kit's somewhat inaccurate painting guide and used colors based on specific Arizona information you can find online. But, in general, I used some of the excellent Tamiya spray paints for the hull and superstructure colors. I finished the decks by hand with several coats of enamel wood color/deck tan paint. If you don't have all of the supplies up front you can pick them up as you need them. Some things like a parts cutter are fairly expensive but once you have one, you have it for many, many, years. You might also check out some of the model ship building boards online such as steelnavy.com that have discussion forums, galleries of built model photos, historic information, etc.
1134440
If I were to do a project like yours, I think I would use the marine varnish. Or epoxy. Epoxy is messy and very difficult. I don't know of anything that will really protect from the AZ sun other than powder coating, which is a metal thing. and baked about 280 degrees. The answer is yes..maybe. I'd do it.
610063
L., I would actually go with some J.B. Weld on that exterior door. I believe they make the quick drying still, and then the regular. I think the quick J.B. Weld sets up in about 4 minutes. This drys like metal and you can sand it and paint, etc.; afterwards. Also, I suggest the Steel Putty (it's less messy). There are several different brands of the putty available. I've never used the Bondo Plastic Metal on bigger projects. I probably overuse J.B. Weld, haha. Is that possible? It's the new duct tape.Thanks!
2087745
I used adhesive vinyls on the surface & then used urethane. I believe you would be able to use acrylics & then use a varnish coat for lasting durabilty. I'm sure anything would scrape off if road hard.
657541
Over the winter, we sanded the aluminum rims to the window screens on our trawler because the original paint had peeled off in several places where the stainless steel screws met the aluminum. We then cleaned it with mineral spirits and a tack cloth. We put on one layer of this primer, then followed up the primer with the "above the water" marine paint. Application was best with small sponge brushes in these narrow areas. One coat of primer and 2-3 coats of paint. The result so far are good.
2257770
Sandblast and powder coat the deal. Don't mess around with anything else or you will be wasting your time.
879732
Lightly sand with fine paper ( 220 ) to remove the poly first. Any amount of sanding will also remove the old stain as well but it will be easy to even out with one coat of the gel stain and look great! Use a satin poly over that for a perfect finish.
1175965
Try the Eco-Bond CLR 125 Ultra Clear Primer-less Sealant. It's clear and has a waterproof, mold and mildew resistant finish. http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Bond-Ultra-Primer-less-Sealant-ounces/dp/B006UJO704/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=15ZJFEYEP308741VNQ2S
2258885
You can use Nikwax on all waterproof fabrics! Just make sure to read the instructions before use!
1073784
I should also mention that I really like Good Stuff! Its a gel that is easy to apply with a lint free rag. I make end grain cutting boards and 3-4 thin coats produces a beautiful and protective finish. I do refinish the boards every 6 months but they take a beating during those six months. I hope this helps.
2102994
just sand/polish nicks, burrs and rust. then, clean/degrease as necessary. then, apply. reapply for a darker effect.
697015
I have this block, If I had Black stains on it I would take some Fine sand paper and see if I couldn't buff it out. Then wipe it down and re-oil. Never use water on your board Just a lightly dampened cloth.
1065778
Yes, I've haven't had any problems using it directly over epoxy primer within the recoat window but in the U-Pol Raptor TDS (Custom Coat is the same thing) it recommends waiting for the epoxy to fully cured and then sanding or scuffing.
1274224
I am not sure, but for outdoor applications with lots of sun exposure and weather, I like to use a marine varnish. It will last a long, long time.
1861433
The epoxy will seal into porous substances no problem you will have to do it in layers over a couple of days. My only concern would be leaching from the epoxy itself for that you would need the MSDS sheets. If you contact the folks at AreoMarine they will get it for you very friendly group of people.
2065244
I use it for swamp cooler repair.It is very slick,but I think after application while still wet you could put sand on top ,and pat some into the epoxy before it cures.It already A very thick mixture,not sure what mixing sand in would do to the mixing,and curing process