can you still use the external shunt below 10A or must you disconect it?
1095284
The manufacturer says you don't need it if you're below 10Amps. You would probably need to adjust your current reading, turning the potentiometer on circuit board, due to the small current passing through the shunt. Connect a hand held Ammeter in-line to verify your current flow and match your panel meters reading to it.
1095285
The external shunt MUST be used at all times and one end of the shunt MUST be connected to the black wires (which are common). The other end of the shunt would then go to the yellow wire.
261569
You should not use more than 80% of the rated capacity which would be 16 total amps continuous. I am not an electrician.
67858
I'm not 100% because we were triggering something very low current. I want to say it was somewhere in the 10-15a range?
1598064
Personally, I would go lower but not higher. the purpose of the fuse is to protect the Inverter. Mine specified 80Amps, so I would not have gone higher than that (warranty), but you could go lower, say 60Amp. The unit I bought came with an 80Amp and a 60Amp fuse. I used the 80Amp and saved the 60Amp as a spare.
140094
Yes, you really should. It might not always run 30 amps continuously when it's on, but if you have anything else on it, you really risk tripping the breaker. (Obviously, 20A or lower breakers would not do at all.)
2043313
I have not put mine into service yet. I would suspect that it's the wrong shunt, I'd be surprised if the adjustment (if there is one) would have that much range. I'll try to check mine out and let you know what I find.
1637298
It shouldn't be a problem. I did one connection from main 10A to the add 3A and haven't had any problem, the 3A is going to resist only 3A if the load goes over 3A the fuse will burn out before damage de device. If you go from 20A main to 10A add your device connected to the 10A add shouldn't consume more then 10A.
1703731
You cannot destroy a device by connecting a power supply with a larger current rating than its requirement. If your device needs 0.7A to 1A then it would take just that amount. I believe however that if your battery for the device is poorly design then it could take more than the required amt and damage the device. It is also in my opinion that the power plug is not going to be the problem. I have mine and it works well still. I also left my device on the power plug longer than it used to and my device still works fine. Hope this info helps
1581091
Yes a shunt is necessary to allow the meter to work. I believe it is 500 mA.
2050440
the meter does not have an internal shunt. you must buy a standard shunt 0.005 ohm and use 100 ohm pot to calibrate the meter to read 20Amp.
2060769
It doesn't matter how many watts are available on the input, what matters is the load you have connected to the output. As long as the load attached to each circuit does not exceed the rating (of that circuit, i.e. 10amps, 20amps, whatever the rating is) there will be no problem. When you are switched to the mains side, it is capable of supplying much more than 8Kw and the power will be passing through the same circuits.
629892
I don't think so, It shouldn't be an issue using your current wiring set up to disconnect and attach to this unit.
1064910
the shunt is internal and low-side, you want to connect the ground of your load to the yellow wire then ground the whole unit with the black, than connect the red to the voltage you want to measure
1592659
None ... Use an in-line signal amplifier somewhere in the middle (power is required at that point) and Power either end with the other output lead.
2282952
I'm not sure. There is no internal switching for this, but, in principle, you could do it externally. Very little information comes with the unit, and I've never seen a circuit diagram. Although you would probably be OK, I have noticed that the output protection circuit is very touchy. For some reason it refuses to let the output relays close when the line voltage is greater than 127V. (I bought a voltage regulator.) So, I guess I would be wary of doing anything unusual with the output.
1135626
I don't think that would be a good idea.. It's always best go by manufacture recommended wiring and amplification. Exceeding the power input beyond its capacity on any electronics could cause things to quite literally fry.
1536502
A multimeter shows the V+s are internally shorted as are the COM terminals, though I haven't tried running a 20A load through a single terminal or splitting it.