The wires on the one i pulled out of my wall were soldered on, yikes! does this one have simple screws? does it matter which wire goes where? thanks
1093262
Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the wire nuts and Please be carefully shut the power off if you can! Good luck! Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the... » Read More Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the wire nuts and Please be carefully shut the power off if you can! Good luck! « Show Less
1093263
It has pigtails and wire nuts. It's a simple resistor, so the only thing you need to do is wire it in line between the load (hot) wire and the fixture.
1093264
No. Best to use wire nuts. I seem to recall there were 2 black wires for the hot and switch-leg (doesn't matter). If you have any questions recommend you contact a professional electrician.
1093265
Hi M. Bell. The ones I received had screw and push in connections, no solder required. Traditionally you would have a black wire and white wire, black being the "hot" wire and white being the neutral. There are directions & diagrams with the dimmer. Hope that helps - Larry.
1093266
Does not need to be soldered. Can use wire nuts. There should only be two wires that attach to each wire on the switch. There may also be a ground wire
1093267
Hi, dimmers usually have their own wires, unlike a regular switch that has screws and slots, it should not matter if you mix up the wires, if you have a 3rd green wire, that's your ground ( sometimes just bare copper wire too) some older buildings don't have that ground wire , if there is no place to connect it, just bunch it in behind the new switch, you can carefully cut the old wires, remove a appx half inch of insulation, twist the wires together, then screw on the little colored wire nuts ( tight) to each connection, you can put some electrical tape to cover any bare wires with the wire nuts and Please be carefully shut the power off if you can! Good luck!
1743629
You'll have to add your own. I soldered a diode inline with one of the output wires.
2164872
It's stupid.. Was there a resistor in your original unit (there was in mine). If so, you have to solder it in series with the wire that goes from one side of the unit to the other. Just look at the wiring diagram. Since I can't open mine and don't have the instructions, you just have to follow the diagram. Sorry I can't help more.
1989881
I don't see any problems removing the center screw, however, that screw is what keeps the unit securily attached to the wall, removing it would mean that only the electrical prongs would be holding it in place and unplugging a device from it may pull the whole unit from the wall.
975654
It is those thin pieces of metal sticking out to each side. I slide the wire through those little holes then apply the solder. The + & - are a bit confusing. What I have found is ....if the LED is laying flat with the + in the right hand corner near you, then the + terminal is on the side opposite you. If you hook it up backwards.....it just won't work, but no damage. Make sure it is heat sinked with thermal grease......otherwise it will burn itself out in just a couple seconds.
889187
Regular Philips screws just unscrew put wire in then screw it no pun intended
1601355
I didn't screw it to the wall and I don't recall if it has a screw. I am not at the house that I use it in so I can't check. Sorry
2254178
The wires are inserted into a hole that was there and the lizard is screwed into the wall with two screws. We installed this with minimal work.
720152
NO I agree with Fred buy the complete unit. In my case mine was old enough that they were not the same. Just write the color coded wire order before you remove them. Very easy to change.
705205
Mine was exactly the same; wall mount broken. My old wall mount was screwed into the baseboard so it was easily unscrewed and the new one screwed into place. There is a slit near the bottom of the pulley and the cord simply slides into place. Kinda hard to explain, but very simple in operation. FYI, the one I received is slightly different than the photo on Amazon. The photo is representative of my old one, where one side of the pulley rotates to create an opening for the cord. That's not the style I received, but I like the one I received more as there are fewer moving parts to break.
1302645
The tips do unscrew, and if you look at the picture the bottom unscrews off the purple, but I can't see how the wire is connected. They are so well made a would bet they are soldered. Sorry I can't help more.
959743
The Instructions are a little confusing, I had to just go by what each wire does: I used Conventional Diagram! I also Double checked connections On the internet utilizing how my old one was connected & tagged the wires with the corresponding letters shown on the wiring diagram? I don't know if I have confused you more O actually helped you? Good Luck! =O)
175359
It comes with screws. I just used a Philips head screw driver and was able to attach it right to the wall.
1305831
Screws to the wall...no switch box needed. I used command strips...so you don't even need screws! :)
668789
I will try to remember. Mine did not work and had to be returned and reordered, and I don't have it yet. But I recall that it had two places to push in a wire for each station. It requires wires that are stripped and tinned with solder to work right. Keep careful track of what wire goes to what station number. I seem to recall stations 1, 2, 3, and L. And that is what my fan needs. There are spots for 2 L wires, if you need 2.
483333
Thats the same TV I have and the wire piece broke off and we had to take tv apart to get it out. The directions dont tell you where all the wires plug in at. We had to guess.
975655
It is those thin pieces of metal sticking out to each side. I slide the wire through those little holes then apply the solder. The + & - are a bit confusing. What I have found is ....if the LED is laying flat with the + in the right hand corner near you, then the + terminal is on the side opposite you. If you hook it up backwards.....it just won't work, but no damage.Make sure it is heat sinked with thermal grease......otherwise it will burn itself out in just a couple seconds.