I would like to know if this unit operators when it first starts up and open the hot and cold water valves. Does it open and close the valves very fast causing water hammer. Or does just open letting the drum fill up, because I have an LG washer that...
1103801
Hi Gregory, Thanks for the question. Samsung HE Washers cycle the valves while water is entering in order to regulate the temperature which is measured by an internal thermostat. The recommended water pressure specification for this and other Samsung Washers is 20-116 psi. I can't tell you whether you would experience pipe hammer with a machine other than the one you currently own, but if so, I would suggest contacting a plumber for assistance. - Ms. Samsung
1505116
I have an in-line shutoff at the pressure washer. I Before I attempt to start the engine I run the water through the wand. Then I close the shutoff and start the engine, opening the shutoff as soon as possible after the engine starts. I have had no problems yet doing it this way.
1065145
Do you hear the piston making a "popping" sound or just a constant tone when you pull the trigger? Air does come out of the side of the unit during normal operation and it will making a consistent popping sound dependent on input PSI. I'd check for air pockets, just like with a normal grease gun I have to prime it before I get grease flow. Just bang this upside down against the rim of a plastic trash can dozen or so times and check periodically for the grease to start flowing. The tone of the piston will change once it's actually pushing grease too if it's popping really fast and nothing's coming out its just not primed enough. Hope this helps!
1352870
I would first start by double checking the condition of the Pumping unit before attempting any use. 1. Disassemble the Pump assembly where the magnetic fins spin. You should be able to remove the magnetic/plastic fanblade assembly. There is either a metal/plastic stick with two rubber tips used to help dampen any vibrations. If the pump wasn't taken care of, or "ran dry" for too long, the magnetic fan assembly may have warped making disassembly more difficult. 2. if all goes well, and you can in fact pull the pump's magnetic fan assembly out, or can freely spin it within the pump housing assembly, then you can try priming the unit by filling the canister. (do this outside or where overflow water will be caught) 3. I have just over filled my unit, and while waiting for the pump to start sucking in water, I've closed the "Out" hose valve. applied generous pumping of the prime button, then reopened the Out hose valve. This creates suction thus if no water is coming into the "In" hose valve you may have a obstruction. Make sure the canister is full of water before starting it up, made a huge difference in how long I waited for the water to begin flowing. The top half of the pump assembly itself needs to have some water in it, because to me, it seems like it doesn't do jack squat unless there is water in it. I'm not a major fan of the Cascade series pumps, but when it comes to customer service the manufacture I contacted directly helped me out in a pinch. There is a science to the Priming aspect of getting the unit going. I've noticed leaving the "Out" valve at the half off position, while priming, this helps pressure build up as the "In" hose begins to fill with water. The sudden opening of the "Out" valve causes the built up pressure to pull enough of that collected water in the "In" hose to make it to the pump assembly, and voila. it freaking starts working. ..after 30 minutes of trying"
1101723
No. Since the water basically "completes the low voltage circuit" between the hi and lo sensors, there are no moving parts. So, unless your unit gets popped with a bad electrical surge, I don't see what could become an issue. I have a Cutler-Hammer whole house surge... Since you can set where the hi and lo sensors go, I would bet you could elongate the cycling time of your pump (it will run for longer, but not as often - i.e. better for the pump)... Thanks, JTS
66441
Keith, I have installed this 24Plus, and I am very excited about it! It will cause a surge when the unit kicks on, yet it is very short lived, as are most surges. I would assume that you don't trip the power breaker when you use it, and there is nothing to fear if it is set up according to code. It just draws a lot of electricity when it runs! But it makes the best water!
288299
I've had the unit installed for about 6 months and haven't had any issues with water temperature. If you have many appliances/faucets demanding hot water all at once, you may see a slight pressure drop but it only lasts a split second until the unit catches up. With the built in recirc pump, this is a fantastic unit and I'm very happy with the performance so far.
1283154
The valve/using the cold water lines as your return lines system is imperfect. What happens is you are filling the cold water line with hot water recirculating to the water heater and you have to run it out before you get cold water. In theory, the valve is supposed to close when the water at the faucet is hot enough but it does not always work as advertised and your "cold" water would still be warm anyway. The way to completely solve this is to abandon the valve and install a return line directly from the last hot water appliance in each main hot water line all the way back to the water heater, and into a tee at the drain line. This way the cold water lines are unaffected. The valve/using the cold water lines as your return lines system is imperfect. What happens is you are filling the cold water line with hot water recirculating to the water heater and you have to run it out before you get cold water. In theory, the valve is supposed to close when the water at the faucet is hot enough but it does not always work as advertised and your "cold" water would still be warm anyway. The way to completely solve this is to abandon the valve and install a return line directly from the last hot water appliance in each main hot water line all the way back to... » Read More The valve/using the cold water lines as your return lines system is imperfect. What happens is you are filling the cold water line with hot water recirculating to the water heater and you have to run it out before you get cold water. In theory, the valve is supposed to close when the water at the faucet is hot enough but it does not always work as advertised and your "cold" water would still be warm anyway. The way to completely solve this is to abandon the valve and install a return line directly from the last hot water appliance in each main hot water line all the way back to the water heater, and into a tee at the drain line. This way the cold water lines are unaffected. « Show Less
1318766
You'll get an instruction manual. It comes with an attachment for your faucet so it can couple with the water's input/output. I preheat the water after connecting to faucet, turn on hot water and use red button (release valve) until it's coming out hot. Then choose your cycle and push start. There is a 10 second delay before it starts. You leave the water on until it beeps several times, telling you it's finished. You turn off dishwasher, turn off water, push the red release button on coupler (releases any water pressure) then you uncouple and then I pull the hose upward from the back to drain water still in hose. Certain cycles heat the water so you'll want to pull open the door and let the steam out and the dishes (hot) will finish drying. The manual is not written well, but it's not rocket science, so you'll figure it out. But you leave hot on until it finishes the cycle (also, the red light that flashes while running, goes solid red when cycle is over). It has a lot of options, so you'll want to read it carefully. But it's a good dishwasher. Which reminds me... I'd better load mine up... again :)
1283156
The valve/using the cold water lines as your return lines system is imperfect. What happens is you are filling the cold water line with hot water recirculating to the water heater and you have to run it out before you get cold water. In theory, the valve is supposed to close when the water at the faucet is hot enough but it does not always work as advertised and your "cold" water would still be warm anyway. The way to completely solve this is to abandon the valve and install a return line directly from the last hot water appliance in each main hot water line all the way back to the water heater, and into a tee at the drain line. This way the cold water lines are unaffected.
300238
I am not quite sure I understand the question. Generally speaking my answer to ANY question pertaining to this model is A) RETURN IT NOW!!!! If it is less than 30 days old, or whatever window from the place of purchase. I wish dearly someone had given me that advice when I made the HORRID mistake of purchasing this worthless machine. B) Buy another washing machine that is NOT LG. I had to buy a GE about 6 months after I purchased this model BRAND NEW. but FINALLY i have clean clothes!!!! When I was using this NIGHTMARE machine, I would have to set it on "Bulky bedding" setting in order to get enough water in the drum to actually get the clothes wet enough to get clean. So yes, you have to set it to "bulky / bedding", stand over the machine for however long it takes to fill, then pause it, power off, then power back on and then chose the appropriate wash setting. WAY TO GO LG!!!!!!!! Congratulations on making the WORST most useless washing machine EVER!!!!
902099
I bought 5 or 6 alarms and placed them where I though the water would flow if one of the "water sources" became "active". So on the floor near the back of the washer (in case the water supply hose busted), on the floor near the base of the water heater, in a low spot on the floor where water that leaks in from the wall tends to accumulate. Any questions: indybroughton@yahoo.com
864943
Interesting question. I think you are asking whether the timer opens a pilot valve and then line pressure opens the main valve, or whether the timer opens the main valve. It is my impression that the timer opens the main valve and thus it would work with low pressure - but I may be wrong. I have actuated it when it was not connected to water and I heard it click. But that could have been a pilot. I stopped using mine since it stuck open one night, neighbor called me, and I had to drive to my cabin in the forest to turn it off. Easy way to find out - buy and send it back if you don't like.
1127530
Not that I'm aware of. I usually put hot water in the unit first and then run it. The vibration keeps the water hot. The piezo transducers in these aren't meant for a 30 minute duty cycle, and there needs to be a few minutes cool down between cycles when using the 4 minute setting. I've run mine quite a bit, but not 30 minutes constantly. These machine are inherently weak and inefficient because of design, and when the water reaches boiling point, the efficiency drops much further. That is why commercial machines cost so much more.
2248406
Hey Joe, probably will not help with your entire-system. It should help with the washer as it is intended. But your problem lies within the water pressure (PSI) setting at the water inlet regulator for the condo unit itself. I would have that checked and turned down. If you leave the water pressure regulator at the current pressure setting it is at, it will surely cause some type of damage over time with the undue stress on the pipes, fittings and fixtures (like faucets) attached to your system. Needs to be checked out for sure.
1160151
This is the cold water valve system. The hot water valve should be this one: LG Electronics 5220FR2006H Washing Machine Hot Wat - Make sure you confirm that the part numbers match!
1380668
It sounds like a defective unit. Mine works perfectly.... knock on wood... no issues so far and I've had it for over a yr.