Can this flash be used on a 100-400 L lens with tubes and step down rings? Crop body. 1.6 factor. Or would it be better to use a wide angle lens or prime with tubes several sets to get the magnification desired. Can this flash be used on a 100-400 L lens with tubes and step down rings? Crop body. 1.6 factor. Or would it be better to use a wide angle lens or prime with tubes several sets to get the... » Read More Can this flash be used on a 100-400 L lens with tubes and step down rings? Crop body. 1.6 factor. Or would it be better to use a wide angle lens or prime with tubes several sets to get the magnification desired. « Show Less
1096897
That would be a poor choice to use with extension tubes. Its minimum focus distamce is 1.8m (6 feet). You'd need to lower its filter size to 72mm in order to acquire and attach a 72mm macrolite adaptor (not included). You'br better off using something normal to wide with extension tubes, or even better some of the macro lens options straight with the flash (macrolite adaptors are required for all but the mpe65).
1096898
I don't think it would be very practical to try it on the 100-400. The ring size is going to be a problem since it was sized for the 100mm macro and the 100-400 is much larger. Why not go with a 100 or 180 (or even a 50)? Extension tubes are okay, and will allow you to focus much closer to the subject but none that I've ever tried matched a good macro lens.
1815191
Absolutely, it goes to 105 so you are going to have more zoom (and a little less wide angle), it's a very good lens, I use it with my a6000 and work very good for every day use and casual photography, fast enough (f4), good quality (G badged), much more versatile than the kit lens, better bokeh. If you want faster and crispier lens have to go prime..!Cons: Block down left angle of included flash light(in a6000 camera), no problem with pro flash, and little heavy and big. Good enough to recommend it, go for it.
1498256
There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm terms, which is more than a 300mm lens on the D3200. There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm... » Read More There are a lot of variables, the most important being the ISO you set and the lens you use. I've gotten shots at out to about 50 feet at a high ISO and with an F2.8 lens (on the FT1). With standard optics it's probably about 40 feet. I don't think you should use flash distance as the major deciding factor, though. To me the big advantage of the V1 is the 2.7x focal multiplier. A 30-110 lens is almost 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms. To get that on a D3200 you'd need a 200mm lens, which is big and heavy. Put a 18-200 zoom on the V1 with the FT1 adapter and it zooms out to over 500mm in 35mm terms, which is more than a 300mm lens on the D3200. « Show Less
1503544
Not sure about ef-s because that lens is made for crop. However, 100f2 should be no problem. Have yet to have a compatibility issue with an EF lens. However... sometimes my 100 macro won't go to f2.8, sticks at 4. My 85 and 50 Let won't go down to f1.2, but it reads f1.3.
2065298
Well at these focal lengths it's all about compression. Either one will do well but the 135 wide open is probably the way to go since you start at f/2 vs f/2.8 for the 200mm. Your bokeh will be really good on either wide open but in reality be better on the 135 since you will be at f/2 as you're picking up a stop or so. If you are only going to use it for portraits and you don't need the reach you should get the 135mm since it is the f/2 golden child greatness of Canon's lens selections and you can take advantage of it with your FF sensor wide open. Here's a video that shows all the aspects of compression.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Fzh9eQDhL4 Well at these focal lengths it's all about compression. Either one will do well but the 135 wide open is probably the way to go since you start at f/2 vs f/2.8 for the 200mm. Your bokeh will be really good on either wide open but in reality be better on the 135 since you will be at f/2 as you're picking up a stop or so. If you are only going to use it for portraits and you don't need the reach you should get the 135mm since it is the f/2 golden child greatness of Canon's lens selections and you can take advantage of it with your FF sensor wide open. Here's a video that shows all the aspects... » Read More Well at these focal lengths it's all about compression. Either one will do well but the 135 wide open is probably the way to go since you start at f/2 vs f/2.8 for the 200mm. Your bokeh will be really good on either wide open but in reality be better on the 135 since you will be at f/2 as you're picking up a stop or so. If you are only going to use it for portraits and you don't need the reach you should get the 135mm since it is the f/2 golden child greatness of Canon's lens selections and you can take advantage of it with your FF sensor wide open. Here's a video that shows all the aspects of compression.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Fzh9eQDhL4 « Show Less
1155872
Yes, as matter of fact, i used it on my Canon 60 mm macro lens and I got more than 1:1 magnification with the extension, but you will have to manually focus through. I also use them on my 24-105 L, it works for me all on my Canon 60D. you can use any one or more extension tubes as combination with your lens. I hope this answer will help you.
1428392
Like Chris, I have no experience with D series lenses. On G series lenses, they work fine. But there are a couple of caveats to be aware of: First, if you stack the tubes for greater magnification, you may find that your connection becomes intermittent or stops completely. That is because the Kenko tubes are not completely rigid, and will flex when stacked. This is especially problematic with heavier lenses. Second, AF is not all that useful with high magnification. Your depth of field gets very, very shallow. If you are doing true macro work, you will probably want to manually focus. The AF can get you started, but you will probably want to fine-tune the focus manually. The best way to do that is to use Live view and magnify the image once you've composed the basic shot. Focusing rails are very useful for this focus fine-tuning. FWIW
769613
Sorry, I can't give you a definitive answer. It partly depends on what you are photographing and at what magnification. At high magnification the lens is very close to the subject ( a centimeter or two) and the lens body might interfere with flash reaching the subject. I have shot only plant parts in natural light, and that works well.
1453365
Does anyone know if this ring flash will fit on a Sigma 105mm macro lens?? Would an adaptor be needed and if so what kind? Thanks!
872973
It will work well with the camera. I have the same one. As far as the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM lens you could have some autofocus issues with the lens. If I recall 5.6 is about the limit for autofocus to work on the lens/camera. If you double that to 9.0 to 11.2 with the doubler you may lose autofocus
2007657
That isn't really what this will help you do. One thing each tube does is decrease the amount of light that gets to the sensor. So i'd imagine that you'd probably have trouble balancing the f/stop and shutter speeds to get a result you like with that lens. This is ok for doing macro photography where you can control the lighting a bit better, but its really just a casual users toy for occasional use.
1967330
The 25 will get you a larger( closer) image than the 12. It really depends on what you want the image to be. I'm using the 25, But mainly on my 100-400 telephoto so I can focus closer on small wild life. My lens only focuses down to about 6 feet. the 25 lets me get as close as 2, Not really macro work but it suits my needs. Hope that helps.
835236
The f/stop values (3.5-4.5G) mean that it would be best to use this lens with flash to get optimal performance. Stopped down to 18 mm will give you enough of a wide angle to capture a larger room, however you might want to purchase one of the Nikon Speedlight flash units so you can bounce the light off the ceiling to get a more uniformly lit image, especially in larger rooms./= I mainly take portraits of people indoors without flash and I use the AF-S 35 mm f/1.4G for this.
2146047
This is where literacy can be so useful.... Full AF is capable with lenses having a maximum aperture of F/4.5 or brighter. The PRO 300 family is designed specifically to be used with prime telephoto lenses of 100mm or above, such as, a 300 mm f/2.8 lens, and work best with telephoto lenses of 200mm to 500mm. The PRO 300 can be used with telephoto zoom lenses as well as prime lenses. Assuming reading is challenging there is the internet coloring book called YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekD9zhupU9o For any literate patrons... this is a fine TC and works great on my old school glass 80-200 f2.8 and 300 f4... I haven't tried it on lenses that are designed to be "all in one" lenses... such as my 28-300 VR or lenses with a focal length of less than 50 mm.
508127
see the other fellow response....this ring light is made for macro or very close photography... it works ok whence i have not use it too much. I took a close up picture perhaps 3 ft and came ok. but as Morrow said...what do you want to use this for regular photography...dont you have a flash? what camera do yo have ? built in flash??? etc
1810273
I used this on a 100mm macro with one of the larger adapters and experienced no difficulties of any type. From looking at the 77mm filter ring adapter that came with my set I believe you will see no light leakage, halos or vignetting with your lens. This thing works great. I don't use this light as a flash but as a continuous light source. Battery life is very good- I use Eneloop rechargeables but ordinary alkaline AAs work well also. Highly recommended but useful only for macro- flat lighting removes shadows which only looks good on certain macro shots- bad results will occur if used for portraits or other shots where shadows add depth or interest. I used this on a 100mm macro with one of the larger adapters and experienced no difficulties of any type. From looking at the 77mm filter ring adapter that came with my set I believe you will see no light leakage, halos or vignetting with your lens. This thing works great. I don't use this light as a flash but as a continuous light source. Battery life is very good- I use Eneloop rechargeables but ordinary alkaline AAs work well also. Highly recommended but useful only for macro- flat lighting removes shadows which only looks good on certain macro shots- bad results will occur if used for... » Read More I used this on a 100mm macro with one of the larger adapters and experienced no difficulties of any type. From looking at the 77mm filter ring adapter that came with my set I believe you will see no light leakage, halos or vignetting with your lens. This thing works great. I don't use this light as a flash but as a continuous light source. Battery life is very good- I use Eneloop rechargeables but ordinary alkaline AAs work well also. Highly recommended but useful only for macro- flat lighting removes shadows which only looks good on certain macro shots- bad results will occur if used for portraits or other shots where shadows add depth or interest. « Show Less
36978
I was in a similar situation, and after trying all the options for a few weeks decided on the primes mostly for size and weight reasons. This lens is tiny for an f/2.8 zoom, but it is big and heavy compared to most other m4/3 lenses.UPDATE: After my latest vacation, constantly switching between primes, I've reconsidered my decision. I sold two of my primes and got the 12-40 again.