If you use this table with the Bosch MRF23 router, is it difficult to remove the router motor from the base, without having to flip the table upside down? Thx.
1087759
Its easy to remove the router motor without turning the table upside down. Just unlock a clamp, press a lever, and turn the motor to line up a groove, and slide t out. Then you can install the router in plunge base for hand held work.
1087760
I bought this table for my Bosch 1617EVSPK router. It's a heavier duty consumer router and Bosch routers seem to have an advantage on Bosch tables - all models are listed on the table's manual for base mounting specs and instructions - I've never had any problem with my setup - I don't see why your router would be any different.
1087761
Easy.... The router I have (Hitachi) is easy to separate from it's base by means of a lever. The motor/chuck of the router unscrews downward and separates from the base installed on the Bosch table easily, enabling bit changes. I opted for the Hitachi for this convenience. I make many cabinets and lots of trim using this convenience often. I believe the Bosch separates easily as well.---Ed
1087762
You should have enough space. I've never had to change motors... If I had to, I would probably take out the screws from the top leveling plate and pull it up through the top rather than unbolt the router table from the base cabinet. I made my own base so I would have drawers for router bits and accessories I buy for it.
1087763
I would think it wouldn't be. I have a Porter Cable router and I can remove it with no problem.
946507
I can't say with 100% certainty, but there are two ways to attach a router to this table, and I was able to attach my Bosch router to it just fine.
605163
I don't have a router lift, the router has a crank accessible from the table top. I just crank the router up and change the bit. No problem. Moving the fence is no problem. I find it quite easy. I'm very happy with this table although I admit I'm a novice when it comes to routers but have made some very nice display tables with it.
2204931
Here is the list of compatible routers from the owner's manual - it would have been nice to have this when I was shopping: Bosch Models 1613 series, 1617 series (fixed base only), 1619EVS; Craftsman listed as "most Craftsman 1/2" collet routers"; DeWalt DW616, DW618 (Fixed base only); Hitachi M12VC; Makita RF1100, RF1101; Milwaukee 5615, 5616; Porter Cable 690 Series, 7529 plunge router and 892-895 series (fixed base only); Ryobi R161, R162, RE170, RE180 PL; Skil 1810, 1815, 1820, 1825. I used this table with my Craftsman and tried to use it with the Makita RF1101. The problem there lay with the Makita design, however, not this table. The router mounted beautifully to the table and bit replacement and cutting depth was a dream from the top, but the motor base would not stay locked in place in an undermount setup due to Makita's deficient lock lever design. (If you're curious about the particulars, please see my review of the Makita RF1101). This was a crying shame IMO, since the Makita is supposed to be a real workhorse, unlike my burned out Craftsman. I have now been using it with the Milwaukee 5616 for the past 3 years and it works satisfactorily.
193709
You could figure out how to do it, I'm sure, but I wouldn't recommend it. My own opinion is that you need a router with a little more guts to stick in a router table. This one is really for more delicate work, like mortising hinges or routing in inlay.
1482459
I have my old table saw mounted on a Grizzly base with wheels, and find it to not only NOT be a problem, but the router table/attachment works quite well.I am using an OLD Black and Decker router bought in the late 70s for which there was no mounting plate available.So, I drilled my own holes and then bought a new router for those times I want a hand held machine.
870807
I'm using a Rockler table that I got years ago. The plate that comes with that table had a small hole and I had to increase the size of the hole for it to fit. If you cannot do that because the whole in the Bosch RA1181 is too large you may perhaps have to make a complete table top.
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
516330
No I did not have this problem at all. The router easily attaches under the fixed base under the table. Look at some YouTube Videos how to mount the router under the table. Hope it helps. Good Luck.
152928
The exact answer I can not give you. I use Incra table. I can advise to look at the resources:http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Mast_R_Lift_II_p/incra%20mast-r-lift%20ii.htmhttp://www.incrementaltools.com/24_x_36_Offset_Router_Table_Top_p/rt2436os.htm
1902796
I had this problem several times. When mounted under a router table the sawdust will tend to accumulate in the threaded adjusting mechanism. I had to remove the router and vacuum out and then blow dust out of the mechanism. I finally got tired of this, bought a lifting mechanism (and mounting plate) into which only the motor is installed (and then mounted under the table), and this solved the problem forever.
251608
You take the base plate off of your router and mount this to it instead. I don't know about your router but mine has a huge open area with the base plate removed where you could use the very first hole of the jig. For the really small circles the pin would be inside the the open cavity of the router body and you wouldn't really see it well. You probably wouldn't be able to use any of the pin holes that fall directly under the body of the router itself. Yes there will be some of the pin holes that you cannot use with a particular router but I'm pretty sure you can step up to a larger bit to help make up for it. Take a closer look at your router and the picture of the jig here and it should make sense. You take the base plate off of your router and mount this to it instead. I don't know about your router but mine has a huge open area with the base plate removed where you could use the very first hole of the jig. For the really small circles the pin would be inside the the open cavity of the router body and you wouldn't really see it well. You probably wouldn't be able to use any of the pin holes that fall directly under the body of the router itself. Yes there will be some of the pin holes that you cannot use with a particular router but I'm pretty sure you can step up to a larger bit to... » Read More You take the base plate off of your router and mount this to it instead. I don't know about your router but mine has a huge open area with the base plate removed where you could use the very first hole of the jig. For the really small circles the pin would be inside the the open cavity of the router body and you wouldn't really see it well. You probably wouldn't be able to use any of the pin holes that fall directly under the body of the router itself. Yes there will be some of the pin holes that you cannot use with a particular router but I'm pretty sure you can step up to a larger bit to help make up for it. Take a closer look at your router and the picture of the jig here and it should make sense. « Show Less
1623199
I have the bench dog pro top router table (available on Amazon) with this router, and it works well. I can use the above-table connections , and they work okay - but I did have to mark and drill a hole for it, as it's non-standard to the plate that comes with the router table. The plate does mount the router fine, you just need a small pilot hole for the adjustment. Most times I just open the door and to the adjustments from there since it's a relatively compact table and easy to do.
1623200
I use the Bosch RA1181 bench top table (review here http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=cm_cr-mr-title). It takes some work to make it right, but for the price I like it. The router plate is already drilled for mounting and has a hole for above table depth adj, which I find very helpful. The adj works well, but you will have to reach under the table to change the range of bit height adjustment. Above the table height works once you get the base "in the range". I use offset wrenches (review here http://www.amazon.com/Offset-Wrench-Triton-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B0040BLFZE/ref=cm_cr-mr-title) for bit changes - this is for the nut, I have another for the shaft - that work far better than the straight wrenches that came with my 1617EVS router, well worth the $.
1335618
Bit works fine for me....I would suspect too deep a cut rather than the motor. Try several shallow cuts if you haven't tried this already.Note that I used a Porter Cable model 6912, which is 1 3/4 hp, same as the router power you used.Of course if the router vibrated before it touched wood then you have a balance problem. Unlikely.
379671
The table extension on the right side is a plastic laminate, and I can't tell if you can easily cut the holes you need for the router. I wouldn't recommend it. There are four clearance holes on the left side of the top casting. You could easily design a router table mounting scheme using these holes. I would want it to be easily removable because otherwise it would interfer with sawing larger pieces.
1202257
Thank you for your question. We recommend that you contact the manufacturer of the router table to verify if it is compatible with the Bosch 1617 series routers. If they are the same, yes the RA1165 will work with your table as it has the same hole pattern as the 1617EVS router. If you have further questions please feel free to contact our Bosch Customer Service Representatives at 1-877-BOSCH-99 (1-877-267-2499).