Is this all I need to buy to replace a Sentrol 240-Coe? What is the difference between a Detector and an Alarm?
1102824
I couldn't tell you if this can replace anything but the GE 240. This isn't a stand alone device and is wired into a central panel. It gets its power from the central panel, there is no place to stick a battery or hook in an adapter. Hope that helps.
1102825
yes this is all you will need to replace the sentrol unit. If you currently have the sentrol 240 wired into your home alarm, the rewiring is straight forward: the + and - power lines and the alarm sensor wire which is either Normally Closed or Normally Open. I believe tghe GE has both, so when you are unwiring the Sentrol pay attention and do the same connection on the GE.
1102826
Yes, this is a direct replacement for the 240 coe. A couple of notes on the swap. The old detector is a wide rectangle. There is a plate available to cover up the holes from the old one if you don't want to repair the screw holes in the wall. The big thing is to find out if you have more than one detector on one zone of the alarm. If not you are fine. If you have two or more you actually need a 6 wire connection between the two detectors to maintain proper supervision. In this instance it is a 4 wire from the panel to the first detector and 6 wire out to the next detector. Also ensure that the end of line resistor is installed as shown in the manual. It ensures that when the sensor reaches its end of life in 5 or so years it puts the zone in trouble so you know it is time to replace it.
739720
I am not sure what model of First Alert my old one were and I have since recycled them. My old and new models have the identical quick connect plug. I did not have to do anything but replace the base mounting ring and plug in the new unit.
1803043
I believe these are basically the same detector. Although the part #'s are the same, these are different units. This unit has a replaceable optical chamber. (whatever that means) Mine works great.
1496680
That's a question best answered by the manufacturer. I know that I replaced my alarms and the pigtail was different even though they were the same manufacturer, but I also changed out all 3 of mine as they were old enough to be of concern of not being set off in an alarm situation. Remember these things are only good for 10 years, the isotope's half life drops out of range for the reliability we expect from an alarm. I the I12060 are nearing that age it is time to upgrade them, to which the compatibility question is moot.
755151
It's been my experience that any of these round detectors will work for any other model. At most, you will need to replace the plug that is connected to the wires coming out of the wiring safety box = the (usually octogonal) metal or hard plastic container in which the wires for the device become available. That's simple to do, just re-use the screw caps that are already there!
1490042
1. Correct. You will need to purchase a two conductor wire (I have 18 ga alarm wire from my local home improvement store) OR you can purchase the Honeywell LT-Cable.2. In my two story home, the unit is across the room from the main entry door. The alarm is PLENTY loud enough for a 2000 sq ft home. The additional sirin really succeeds at letting your neighbors know the alarm was triggered.The alarm remote is radio based and can work through walls. When the remote is used, the main unit beeps one time, very loudly to let you know the status has changed.
609985
There is a 3 prong plastic connector that is included in the box. In my situation I didn't have to use it as I was replacing an existing detector using the same connector.
844557
I don't know. I asked questions at a recent safety fair to local firefighters. They gave me a sheet with explanations of the types of fire alarms and the features of each one. I am not sure what model was in our home, but do know it was standard, builder-grade and was hard-wired with a battery back-up.
1653370
I had a similar situation. I used this without a problem. My house had 1276 alarms and this one was plug and play. Actually I was upset with my alarms in my house. This alarm came with a date of manufacture and my house ones did not.
1829067
Warrenty is one year. There are no separate "parts" covered. I suspect that statement is boilerplate for MTI or Amazon. Life of detector is 5 years, where after it will basically self-destruct after a 30 day warning period that it is going to do so.
1674787
Neither. It's 12VDC and doesn't have a jack for a wall adapter. You have to direct wire it to a 12VDC source. But that shouldn't be a problem because you have to wire the sensor wires back to an alarm panel anyway. So you can just use a standard two-pair alarm cable for both power and sensing. If you just want a standalone CO detector, there are numerous simpler and less expensive devices at most home improvement stores.
2107560
Yes, the only thing you have to check for is the wiring for the trunk release from the alarm, and check what pulse is trhows out - or +, and have wire with a relay, you can google a diagram on how to do it,if you dont want to pay,
961253
1. Correct. You will need to purchase a two conductor wire (I have 18 ga alarm wire from my local home improvement store) OR you can purchase the Honeywell LT-Cable. 2. In my two story home, the unit is across the room from the main entry door. The alarm is PLENTY loud enough for a 2000 sq ft home. The additional sirin really succeeds at letting your neighbors know the alarm was triggered. The alarm remote is radio based and can work through walls. When the remote is used, the main unit beeps one time, very loudly to let you know the status has changed.
867965
There are different modules that are needed. I had car toys install mine and it took a senior installer from a different car toys to install mine on my SRT10. Once it was all finished and working correctly, the best alarm out there in my opinion.
1922417
That's a question best answered by the manufacturer. I know that I replaced my alarms and the pigtail was different even though they were the same manufacturer, but I also changed out all 3 of mine as they were old enough to be of concern of not being set off in an alarm situation.Remember these things are only good for 10 years, the isotope's half life drops out of range for the reliability we expect from an alarm. I the I12060 are nearing that age it is time to upgrade them, to which the compatibility question is moot.
1365058
Just as an alarm? Maybe, but I really recommend that you use someone who has skill and experience. Here it costs $50 to install basic alarm. So that would suggest it's not complicated, but if you mess something up that can cost you much more. Best.
1153558
The cheap alarms only have one slot I think just for the shock sensor. In order to use the proximity sensor you would have to use the slot and forget about shock sensor. I'm using a viper so there is 2 slots.