What is the difference between the X46 and the X46/X46F? The joinery wasnft new for me, but there were a few things tossed about that opened my eyes. I learned something about 6-0 folding rules that I did not know. When I worked in the housing industry, folding rules were so old-school. Tapes were used. Did you know there are two different types of folding rules? One is used for layout work and another is for cabinetry. Do you know the difference? Itfs this: both rules are laid out beginning at zero and moving to 1. A cabinet rule (Lufkin X46F), when flipped to read the second side, also begins at zero and moves toward 1. However, a layout rule (Lufkin X46), when flipped to the back side, is backward in that it begins at the 72 mark and moves downward. What is the difference between the X46 and the X46/X46F? The joinery wasnft new for me, but there were a few things tossed about that opened my eyes. I learned something about... » Read More What is the difference between the X46 and the X46/X46F? The joinery wasnft new for me, but there were a few things tossed about that opened my eyes. I learned something about 6-0 folding rules that I did not know. When I worked in the housing industry, folding rules were so old-school. Tapes were used. Did you know there are two different types of folding rules? One is used for layout work and another is for cabinetry. Do you know the difference? Itfs this: both rules are laid out beginning at zero and moving to 1. A cabinet rule (Lufkin X46F), when flipped to read the second side, also begins at zero and moves toward 1. However, a layout rule (Lufkin X46), when flipped to the back side, is backward in that it begins at the 72 mark and moves downward. « Show Less
1654788
The x46f is a "flat read" or and "inside read". With this style the rule lies flat against the work ( their words ). It lies against the material being measured. With the x46 the rule must be laid on its edge to measure anything while some of the rule is still folded; much less useful. But... they have advertized the x46f at $12.74.
1654789
I am not sure but looking at the information on Amazon it looks like the X46 is heavier-duty. I was not going to be using the ruler all that often so didn't need the heavy-duty one. I love the ruler as it makes more exact measuring very easy. If something happened I would buy another.
1654790
I went to Lufkin's official website, and the only difference I could find was that the X46F is graduated a little differently; from their PDF catalog: "X46F has flat, inside markings; numbering begins oninside of rule." I'm not sure what that means in real-world terms; I'd have to have the two of 'em side-by-side. The X46 is a "standard" folding rule, graduated like almost every other commonly available rule.
1654791
X46X has two 6" extension slides: an extension is ready for use on the first sectionHX46 has hook zero falls at inside of hook, for distance measuringX46F has flat, inside markings: numbering begins on inside of rule
353063
Hi. I'm from Victorinox Swiss Army. The blades are EXACTLY the same. The three differences are 1.) the packaging an 2.) the handle and 3.) The 40520 is NSF approved. The knife usually arrives in a red and white cardboard box. The handle is more tapered than the 40520 and is designed to be more ergonomic. It has a slightly different texture applied to the handle as well, but both are gritty and slip-resistant. The 40520 was designed for commercial kitchens and is NSF approved for food safety in commercial ktichens. The 6.8063.20 was designed for the home chef who does not need that certification on the knife. Please let me know if you have any other questions.Thanks,Tracey Hi. I'm from Victorinox Swiss Army. The blades are EXACTLY the same. The three differences are 1.) the packaging an 2.) the handle and 3.) The 40520 is NSF approved. The knife usually arrives in a red and white cardboard box. The handle is more tapered than the 40520 and is designed to be more ergonomic. It has a slightly different texture applied to the handle as well, but both are gritty and slip-resistant. The 40520 was designed for commercial kitchens and is NSF approved for food safety in commercial ktichens. The 6.8063.20 was designed for the home chef who does not need that... » Read More Hi. I'm from Victorinox Swiss Army. The blades are EXACTLY the same. The three differences are 1.) the packaging an 2.) the handle and 3.) The 40520 is NSF approved. The knife usually arrives in a red and white cardboard box. The handle is more tapered than the 40520 and is designed to be more ergonomic. It has a slightly different texture applied to the handle as well, but both are gritty and slip-resistant. The 40520 was designed for commercial kitchens and is NSF approved for food safety in commercial ktichens. The 6.8063.20 was designed for the home chef who does not need that certification on the knife. Please let me know if you have any other questions.Thanks,Tracey « Show Less
450399
I had a similar question when I first bought this safe because looking at the pictures you can see it in two different configurations. I was pleasantly surprised when I got my safe all setup to find that they provide you with the pieces needed for both shelf setups shown in the picture. If you don't need a lot of long gun \shotgun storage then you can set it up with the insert that splits the main compsrtment and then have the one fixed shelf across the top and then the two smaller adjustable shelves on the right. If you need more long gun storage then you use the other insert which opens up the center allowing for more guns and you just have the one top shelf. Hopefully this helps! I had a similar question when I first bought this safe because looking at the pictures you can see it in two different configurations. I was pleasantly surprised when I got my safe all setup to find that they provide you with the pieces needed for both shelf setups shown in the picture. If you don't need a lot of long gun \shotgun storage then you can set it up with the insert that splits the main compsrtment and then have the one fixed shelf across the top and then the two smaller adjustable shelves on the right. If you need more long gun storage then you use the other insert which opens... » Read More I had a similar question when I first bought this safe because looking at the pictures you can see it in two different configurations. I was pleasantly surprised when I got my safe all setup to find that they provide you with the pieces needed for both shelf setups shown in the picture. If you don't need a lot of long gun \shotgun storage then you can set it up with the insert that splits the main compsrtment and then have the one fixed shelf across the top and then the two smaller adjustable shelves on the right. If you need more long gun storage then you use the other insert which opens up the center allowing for more guns and you just have the one top shelf. Hopefully this helps! « Show Less
752355
I bought this about five months ago and use it with the Freedom Filer and I love it. I'm horrible at going back and giving reviews but I understand when you are trying to purchase an item and not all of the information is there. There are a total of five drawers. The two narrow ones on one side measure H6" W6" D14". The drawers do have a slight taper to them the bottom is the W6" and it gets wider to approximately W7 3/4". There are three drawers on the left side. Two of the drawers are the same dimensions which are W-10" H-3" D-14" and the other one is W-10" H-6" D-14". Hope this helps! I bought this about five months ago and use it with the Freedom Filer and I love it. I'm horrible at going back and giving reviews but I understand when you are trying to purchase an item and not all of the information is there. There are a total of five drawers. The two narrow ones on one side measure H6" W6" D14". The drawers do have a slight taper to them the bottom is the W6" and it gets wider to approximately W7 3/4". There are three drawers on the left side. Two of the drawers are the same dimensions which are W-10" H-3" D-14" and the other one... » Read More I bought this about five months ago and use it with the Freedom Filer and I love it. I'm horrible at going back and giving reviews but I understand when you are trying to purchase an item and not all of the information is there. There are a total of five drawers. The two narrow ones on one side measure H6" W6" D14". The drawers do have a slight taper to them the bottom is the W6" and it gets wider to approximately W7 3/4". There are three drawers on the left side. Two of the drawers are the same dimensions which are W-10" H-3" D-14" and the other one is W-10" H-6" D-14". Hope this helps! « Show Less
931580
I never actually worked with WM1000 but looking at the product specifications, it is similar WM425 in many design details. The main difference appears to be that the WM1000 is a "workbench" only, with a horizontal clasping mechanism. The WM1000 has that plus a pull-up handle in the front middle, which allows you to rotate the front plate 90 degrees up and use the clasping mechanism as a vertical vise. In principle, this should make it possible to clasp a board, for example, to rip-cut the protruding end with a saw, without using the bench dogs. I have not used this option much, because I found the clasping mechanism too weak for a serious wood-working job. Apparently, WM1000 is somewhat simpler in design and has only 2 working plates, as WM425 has a third insert plate but this may actually be an advantage.
2013012
Just want to add: this may be obvious but you want to have a regular screw driver handy as well. You esentially get one chance to get the screws right, since you are putting them into plastic, and it is easier to control the alignment by hand. FULL agreement on the leveling. Got to be right - or you can't make the connections, the doors fall off or will not close... We love the shed, but are still 'tweaking' it.
782477
I can't find any difference at all besides on the top banner after Coreldraw X6 it says "Not for Commercial Use" ... otherwise it is exactly the same for all intensive purposes.
669952
doesnt work like that.... not the newer drawer "closers" where they pull in the rest of the way (softly). this one has a kind of spring hinge where you close it most of the way and it will pull itself the rest of the way, not slowly, the way they have always been. but these are nice and strong and really does have a pull to it. but doesnt make it slam ! no creaking sounds, nice and smooth. one of the nicer looking hinges for the price. really upgraded my older kitchen. again if you have the outside hinges then these are great. the ones that close themselves are the ones that you attach from the inside, they pull the doors in slowly. i think those are the ones you were thinking of. doesnt work like that.... not the newer drawer "closers" where they pull in the rest of the way (softly). this one has a kind of spring hinge where you close it most of the way and it will pull itself the rest of the way, not slowly, the way they have always been. but these are nice and strong and really does have a pull to it. but doesnt make it slam ! no creaking sounds, nice and smooth. one of the nicer looking hinges for the price. really upgraded my older kitchen. again if you have the outside hinges then these are great. the ones that close themselves are the ones that you... » Read More doesnt work like that.... not the newer drawer "closers" where they pull in the rest of the way (softly). this one has a kind of spring hinge where you close it most of the way and it will pull itself the rest of the way, not slowly, the way they have always been. but these are nice and strong and really does have a pull to it. but doesnt make it slam ! no creaking sounds, nice and smooth. one of the nicer looking hinges for the price. really upgraded my older kitchen. again if you have the outside hinges then these are great. the ones that close themselves are the ones that you attach from the inside, they pull the doors in slowly. i think those are the ones you were thinking of. « Show Less
1438878
I'd recomend the bisquit joiner to someone relatively new to woodworking, but it this person is interested in pursuing WW, the Domino is a fantastic tool. Lots more money, and a steeper learning curve, but it's become a staple in my shop. I'm a professional carpenter/contractor, and I own the smaller of the Dominos. I wish I had bought the larger one!
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
1867211
The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high partition. Hope this helps. The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high... » Read More The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high partition. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1596933
If he is making a table he could have meant either a joiner, which is this hand tool, or a jointer, which is a stand alone machine. A joiner makes cuts into the edge of a board. You place a small piece of wood called a biscuit with some glue into this slot and into the matching slot in another board edge and glue the two boards together. The biscuit helps hold the joint together. If he meant a jointer, this machine is used to make the edge and usually one side of a board straight and flat. You can use other machines for the other edge and side once you have a straight a flat edge and side to reference them against. This joiner is a lot cheaper than a jointer. Anyone who does much woodworking needs or already has a jointer. You can see what one looks like by searching on Amazon and you can see if he has one in his shop. They look a lot alike. Such as http://www.amazon.com/Powermatic-Deluxe-6-Inch-Jointer-Quick-Set/dp/B000BHNC0C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1355322797&sr=8-6&keywords=jointer for a stand alone floor model or http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JJP-10BTOS-10-Inch-Bench-Top-Jointer/dp/B001O0D6OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1355322797&sr=8-3&keywords=jointer for a 'bench top' model. A joiner is useful, but there are several ways to work around not having one. Nice prezzie, though. I'll probably buy this joiner myself.
437674
Information from Duofast site: It seems they are minor differences in the 5418's. Also i think that should say 'last letter'Product Description Code ExplanationStaples:1st letter:C = Chisel PointD = Divergent Point2nd letter:A = AluminumG = GalvanizedSS = Stainless SteelZ = Low Carbon SteelR = Coated Nails:G = ElectrogalvanizedHDG = Hot Dipped GalvanizedA = Aluminum** Larger 0.233" Diameter Head
723383
The pair is for using hand-over-hand techniques. You can find videos on youtube or other places online that show you what it is, but its essentially having one for each hand so that you can push longer boards through. I only have one, so I can't speak to how well it works to use 2, but the one is definitely worthwhile.
623017
Judith: Two vertical kerfs are 10mm (~3/8") high x 84mm (~33-1/8") long. Unit is correct for Stanley-built (usually steel-faced) doors up to 36". Brown is lousy color (grey was OE) but unit is superb quality. Power-staple unit to bottom of door. Staples in OE unit were there for a good reason. Might also be good time to replace hinges. Almost anything better than was OE with these door assemblies. Square jamb corners with *recently sharpened* 2" chisel. Hinge screws always too short. Use 3/16" pilot-drill and #10 x 3" philips-head wood screws to fully secure hinge to 4x4 timber behind door frame. Lube screws with candle or beeswax. Cheers!Pavo: Recalibrate your measuring instruments. Judith: Two vertical kerfs are 10mm (~3/8") high x 84mm (~33-1/8") long. Unit is correct for Stanley-built (usually steel-faced) doors up to 36". Brown is lousy color (grey was OE) but unit is superb quality. Power-staple unit to bottom of door. Staples in OE unit were there for a good reason. Might also be good time to replace hinges. Almost anything better than was OE with these door assemblies. Square jamb corners with *recently sharpened* 2" chisel. Hinge screws always too short. Use 3/16" pilot-drill and #10 x 3" philips-head wood screws to fully secure... » Read More Judith: Two vertical kerfs are 10mm (~3/8") high x 84mm (~33-1/8") long. Unit is correct for Stanley-built (usually steel-faced) doors up to 36". Brown is lousy color (grey was OE) but unit is superb quality. Power-staple unit to bottom of door. Staples in OE unit were there for a good reason. Might also be good time to replace hinges. Almost anything better than was OE with these door assemblies. Square jamb corners with *recently sharpened* 2" chisel. Hinge screws always too short. Use 3/16" pilot-drill and #10 x 3" philips-head wood screws to fully secure hinge to 4x4 timber behind door frame. Lube screws with candle or beeswax. Cheers!Pavo: Recalibrate your measuring instruments. « Show Less
1175081
Fence is moved as one piece. On that one piece are 2 adjustable sacrificial fences that move the width of the table independently. Included are plastic shims to place behind these fences to create an offset so you can use as a jointer. Not a bad little table that has its pluses and minuses. Dust collection is ok and it is also kind of small. It does the job and is insert is easily adjusted. The fence forward-rearward adjustment is a bit clumsy and there are a lot of piece attached to the fingerboards that can get annoying. i do not have any flatness issues. Not sure there is a better option for the price. Just remember the size limitations. Fence is moved as one piece. On that one piece are 2 adjustable sacrificial fences that move the width of the table independently. Included are plastic shims to place behind these fences to create an offset so you can use as a jointer. Not a bad little table that has its pluses and minuses. Dust collection is ok and it is also kind of small. It does the job and is insert is easily adjusted. The fence forward-rearward adjustment is a bit clumsy and there are a lot of piece attached to the fingerboards that can get annoying. i do not have any flatness issues. Not sure there is a better option... » Read More Fence is moved as one piece. On that one piece are 2 adjustable sacrificial fences that move the width of the table independently. Included are plastic shims to place behind these fences to create an offset so you can use as a jointer. Not a bad little table that has its pluses and minuses. Dust collection is ok and it is also kind of small. It does the job and is insert is easily adjusted. The fence forward-rearward adjustment is a bit clumsy and there are a lot of piece attached to the fingerboards that can get annoying. i do not have any flatness issues. Not sure there is a better option for the price. Just remember the size limitations. « Show Less
1046192
A jointer is dead on accurate versus "pretty accurate". This is an adequate planer and with work piece clamped to enable right angle passes, could make adequate flat passes over both pieces. The planer is great at planning up to its width.