How do you remove the bottom panel for the cables/cords to exit the rack? The Owners manual doesn't give any details and the rack is far too heavy for me to lay it down on its back and look. Can anybody help me? How do you remove the bottom panel for the cables/cords to exit the rack? The Owners manual doesn't give any details and the rack is far too heavy for me to lay it down on its back and look.... » Read More How do you remove the bottom panel for the cables/cords to exit the rack? The Owners manual doesn't give any details and the rack is far too heavy for me to lay it down on its back and look. Can anybody help me? « Show Less
1660955
There's a break-off panel in the far back that is intended for cables. I used pliers to snap off the tiny posts that held it in place, but you can also use a flathead screwdriver and simply pry it off as the other poster suggested. There are also five panels attached with one screw on each side (2 for each panel) that allows you to open up a much bigger area (good if you need a lot of ventilation). These screws unscrew from the *inside* of the rack. In order to access these, you will need to remove the lower shelves and blind panels if they are still installed. (4 screws per panel/shelf). FWIW, the rear break-off panel can probably be removed via the rear door without removing the shelves first. There's a break-off panel in the far back that is intended for cables. I used pliers to snap off the tiny posts that held it in place, but you can also use a flathead screwdriver and simply pry it off as the other poster suggested. There are also five panels attached with one screw on each side (2 for each panel) that allows you to open up a much bigger area (good if you need a lot of ventilation). These screws unscrew from the *inside* of the rack. In order to access these, you will need to remove the lower shelves and blind panels if they are still installed. (4 screws per panel/shelf).... » Read More There's a break-off panel in the far back that is intended for cables. I used pliers to snap off the tiny posts that held it in place, but you can also use a flathead screwdriver and simply pry it off as the other poster suggested. There are also five panels attached with one screw on each side (2 for each panel) that allows you to open up a much bigger area (good if you need a lot of ventilation). These screws unscrew from the *inside* of the rack. In order to access these, you will need to remove the lower shelves and blind panels if they are still installed. (4 screws per panel/shelf). FWIW, the rear break-off panel can probably be removed via the rear door without removing the shelves first. « Show Less
1660956
There are two screws that hold the removable plates in place. You can access them through the cabinets side door
1070456
Flat head screw driver you can pry the panel out. Much like a slug out of an electrical box.
1660957
You do not have to remove the bottom. There is a knock out plate that you can remove to run the wires.
1660958
There is a punch out located on the rear of the bottom that can be removed so you can route wires. Also, you can easily remove the door and side panels while installing equipment to make it lighter and to help wire routing.
1880988
I bought this Rack and I am VERY DISSAPONTED! The hitch Lock will not work. everytime I turn key, it will only turn so far and it just springs back open. I think the lock is broke! It is ALWAYS OPEN. THen after 20 minutes of messing with it one of the Keys BROKE! Has anyone else had this proble with the lock being open instead of closed when off?
1660010
If it CAN be removed (which I doubt, as it seems pretty solidly a part of the unit), then the company would have to do it, I think. But why would you want to remove it? It juts out only an inch-and-a-half from the back and looks decent, too. It turned out to be useful for installing the PSU in the case, and afterwards it can be good for keeping track of those not-so-often-used-but-easily-lost USB cables, like for a camera.
1071846
It has a rectangle in the center of the back panel that is about 2 1/2 inches high and about 4 inches wide. it is positioned where you can run your cords through that whole from both the bottom and top shelf. Someone responded they left the back off to have more room. You have plenty of room for any component's wires. Leaving the back off will cause the stand to not be as stable as it is with the back one and also components, when used, heat up causing a natural flow of air. Without the back you will draw not only air but dust, which will get into your components. The back provides plenty of ventilation but also keeps some dust out. It has a rectangle in the center of the back panel that is about 2 1/2 inches high and about 4 inches wide. it is positioned where you can run your cords through that whole from both the bottom and top shelf. Someone responded they left the back off to have more room. You have plenty of room for any component's wires. Leaving the back off will cause the stand to not be as stable as it is with the back one and also components, when used, heat up causing a natural flow of air. Without the back you will draw not only air but dust, which will get into your components. The back provides plenty... » Read More It has a rectangle in the center of the back panel that is about 2 1/2 inches high and about 4 inches wide. it is positioned where you can run your cords through that whole from both the bottom and top shelf. Someone responded they left the back off to have more room. You have plenty of room for any component's wires. Leaving the back off will cause the stand to not be as stable as it is with the back one and also components, when used, heat up causing a natural flow of air. Without the back you will draw not only air but dust, which will get into your components. The back provides plenty of ventilation but also keeps some dust out. « Show Less
433661
I figured it out! You need to be careful which end caps you put on which sides. The endcaps with the screw holes need to go on to the bottom. The casters screw into those screw holes.When my wife and I were assembling the clothing rack, we put the endcaps that were supposed to go on the top on the bottom and vice versa, meaning that the bottom didn't have anything to screw the casters into it.A little disassembly of the rack, a swapping of the endcaps, some reassembly, and we were back in business!
392017
Per Classic Store Fixtures.. The C Clamps go along the bottom rail. You will see two screws in that the rail they go on.. You will need to remove the screws and then put the C Clamps on with them. They are a optional peice. But when you have the rack collapsed you can attach the top hang-rail and carry it all as one peice. Also Be carefull who you buy this rack from, there are many non commercial verisons of this rack and many sellers say they carry the commercial version but they really do not. ThanksBen ElkinsClassic Store Fixures
1488882
I had the same problem . It doesn't slide very well , and has a real snug fit . The way I do it is peel the center piece apart and lay my cables down on the bottom peace and just snap it together. It takes some time , but I will say they work great for me. Good luck.
551212
I puzzled over how to fold the rack as well. What worked for me was turning the rack upside down, then gently pulling the legs together.
1138545
I've not travelled with ours, and have had a very hard time finding a box to store it in, since we threw out the box it came in, which was huge. Sorry! It's a great rack, but awkward!
540704
The cable might be loose inside the panels. Remove licence plate and cover. Need a special tool to remove latch. Hard to find. Made one myself. Its a ?shape with top pointing straight insted of down. Hope this helps
876891
It is unnecessary to remove from the base because it is designed to tilt very easily and can tilt back to nearly flat. The cables attach perpendicular to the back so you could not lay it on a flat surface. It does remove easily from the base because it's designed to slide into it. If you prefer to work flat it should work for you as it is. Good luck!
1271418
Take the bottom stand off. I believe they're there or in the back of the unit.
115113
There is a spring loaded pin to pull up at the base of the rack. This allows the rack to tilt down. The pin stays in place so the rack just clicks back in when raised.
1712104
I found the easiest way is to lay it down and then pull the entire leg and wheel assembly off together. The top was too heavy for me to easily lift off. I generally wheel it to my car, lay the top part in the back, and then pull the wheel/leg assembly off. I reconnect it the same way - slide the bar on and then tilt it onto the wheels and stand it up. My car has a hatchback - it would be more difficult with a conventional trunk.
1684421
just bought one from the USA and converted it as per the instructions DANIEL H have suggested. I confirm the solution working perfectly fine. it was easy: unscrew the back ( full panel ) temporarily detach the two side cables links so the back panel can be flipped open 90 degree. this provide better access to the electric block. pretty much you can see is black except of a U shaped white wire connector that pops out in the middle of the electrics. pull it off using a thin plier and then close back everything making sure of reconnecting the cables links you previously dethatched. enjoy. it works seamlessly. just bought one from the USA and converted it as per the instructions DANIEL H have suggested. I confirm the solution working perfectly fine. it was easy: unscrew the back ( full panel ) temporarily detach the two side cables links so the back panel can be flipped open 90 degree. this provide better access to the electric block. pretty much you can see is black except of a U shaped white wire connector that pops out in the middle of the electrics. pull it off using a thin plier and then close back everything making sure of reconnecting the cables links you previously dethatched. enjoy. it... » Read More just bought one from the USA and converted it as per the instructions DANIEL H have suggested. I confirm the solution working perfectly fine. it was easy: unscrew the back ( full panel ) temporarily detach the two side cables links so the back panel can be flipped open 90 degree. this provide better access to the electric block. pretty much you can see is black except of a U shaped white wire connector that pops out in the middle of the electrics. pull it off using a thin plier and then close back everything making sure of reconnecting the cables links you previously dethatched. enjoy. it works seamlessly. « Show Less
268502
Make sure the "L" piece is facing up when you put it in the rack slot. The rack scoop will be almost perpindicular to this area. Not sure if this makes sense but the tip of the part of the rack is the only thing that should be facing up. The rest of that part of the rack should be at the bottom of the slot. Also make sure the other end is placed in the round hole before placing the "L" shaped end in the slot.
949065
It depends on how you attach the rack. The bottom hook can be placed either on the bottom of the bumper, which would prohibit you from opening the trunk, or you can hook it on the bottom of the trunk, which will allow you to access the trunk when the bikes are removed.