which one to use-water coming out between last cinder block on concrete floor?
1656023
I used the DIY product on a cement foundation not a cinder block wall. However I would think it would work. I've had great results. during a heavy rain storm I would fill my 10 gallon shop vac 4 or 5 times, Now no leak!
1656024
if there is a crack this is the best thing to use. We have not had any water leaking in from the crack since using this product. It has now been 5 months and still no leaks.
1656025
This kit is the flexible kit that will work if you don't need the structural repair that the Epoxy version will do for you.
353405
My experience is with a unfinished concrete basement floor that was not level, and it drained out about .05 inches, then I just needed a dry mop. It was great and fast.
1199647
It solved that problem at BOTH of my garages. The only trick is sealing the sides of this strip ... to keep water from running to the end of it, and then into the garage. I used silicone caulk. Oh, and make sure you glue it down correctly (per instructions), so water doesn't get under this strip.
1470229
I havn't used it on tile yet, but I did drill a hole in my concrete foundation on the edge were the footer is. I needed an entry point for my water line. It would not cut thru the bottom plate, so I used a carbide hole saw to go thru the bottom plate. After that I changed back to the diamond bit, used a lot of water, took my time, and it bored all the way thru. And the bit was in great shape. The bottom plate helped hold water around the bit to keep it cool, and it worked great. I would think tile would be no problem. Try to keep water on it while you drill, and go slow.
1396665
There are holes in bottom of the floor for water to get out. And there are grooves that are part of the fake flooring that channel water toward the holes. I haven't tested it yet though.
878326
Should be OK for concrete block but I would drill through the block to the open cavity and use the type fastener that you push through the hole and it then flares out behind the inner wall when you tighten it.
1091970
I think it might be easier on concrete as far as the leveling issue goes. Except if the concrete is rough in any way you wouldnt want it to get a hole in it. I would put a large tarp on the concrete first then the pool.
1796711
Mine "looked level" on the back concrete patio, once water was added, you could tell it was a little unlevel, but it still worked perfectly fine. "Looks level" should be sufficient. No need for a professional level check. :)
902099
I bought 5 or 6 alarms and placed them where I though the water would flow if one of the "water sources" became "active". So on the floor near the back of the washer (in case the water supply hose busted), on the floor near the base of the water heater, in a low spot on the floor where water that leaks in from the wall tends to accumulate. Any questions: indybroughton@yahoo.com
1017792
in the end i used the 3/4 inch diameter (internal) version for better water flowi used a 1 3/8 inch masonry bit and sealed around the edge with epoxyit was a nice tight fit and has not leakedi was careful only to use the epoxy on the inner section so as not to prevent screwing on the seal ringi feel that the 3/4 inch version should be better for a 1 1/2 inch diameter holegood luck - i hope the hole is not too long as the tubing is not. i am certain the 1/2 inch version will be too small based on my experience
1636472
Yes, it will drip between. If you have anything below your deck, you should remove it or cover it up. This stuff should go on thick so overflow will be an issue.
1829346
I would check with the dealer. The manual was printed back in the day and things change so I would go this route. It's better to find the drain plugs in the block to get all the fluid out. Go to home depot and get a concrete mixing tub and this will catch all the fluid so you don't get it on the ground. Also make sure no animals get near the fluid as they may lick it
2260084
Depends on how much material you want to remove and how rough the surface is when you begin. If you are wanting to expose much of the aggregate and if the concrete is rough then maybe want to get an extra pad of 50 and 100grit.
739806
I used a premixed thin set on the hydro barrier I applied to the concrete Hardyboard. It sticks very well. Here is one of a series of good links on how to do it. Note this guy does not recommend glueing tiles in a wet environment. While more work, concrete board last longer. It is very important to waterproof thoroughly. When I removed the old tile/wall board I found an ant "Garden of Eden" behind it. Very important to cut off their water. http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_457202&feature=iv&src_vid=xmzEKU4YLpk&v=D1-v070N0WI
1649263
Hi Sam, I have found that most of the water lost come from removing the cut tile from the cutting platform. There are these rubber fenders around the blade that prevent the water from spraying all over the place. The extended pan in the back of the cutter catches most the water coming off the saw. The water lost is minimal. I had to cut some larger tiles, 12x24, so most of the water lost came from the water spray onto the tile during the cut, especially when I removed the tile after the cut is made. As a matter of fact, it is so good catching the water, after awhile you need to replace it because of the amount of grime collected in the reservoir. gh
2108549
For dog pee on concrete, I would pour on the water/product mix and then let it dry on its own. Don't remove it at all until its completely dry.
400072
We have serious temperature swings here in Oklahoma...I have never seen any effect.That said, the "acid" they include with the kit isn't sufficient to properly etch the concrete (It's citric acid...like in lemonade...probably used to minimize consumer liability)...Buy some muriatic acid, and use it in a bit of a strong mix with water. Then rinse the concrete very clean...Let the floor dry, then apply the floor covering.