I've always loved good knives but am woefully ignorant of the different metals. S30V, 440HC or 8Cr13MoV, etc. What do they mean, which is hardest?
1672868
According to my research, 440HC is the hardest grade for Stainless Steel (what Buck uses for their standard blades). S30V is an alloy (the best steel to use for blades according to Buck). 8Cr13MoV is Chinese Stainless steel and I would avoid it for that reason (different hardness standards) - difficult to tell where it ranks with the others and of course I would have questions about consistency in the alloys made by different manufacturers. Hope this helps.... see also: http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=about.feature
1672869
So sorry, you may have to look that up on the I-Net. My son in law said that it was one excellent knife. He was always breaking his pocket knives, so I purchased this one. I have a knife like that around here somewhere. It is a very good knife I can not believe I purchased one for so little. It is much heaver than a pocket knife but, it is small enough to fit in your pocket. Remember you may always send it back. Amazon is good that way.
1672870
Actually Buck's standard knife steel is 420HC, not 440HC. This is used in their SELECT series. Most, but not always, of their mid-grade AVID series knives use 12C27 and their top of the line knives use S30V, which is a powdered metal steel. Basically each step up is a better grade of steel as far as maintaining an edge. Along with this comes the negative fact that each step up is a little more difficult to get the blade back to "shaving" sharp if you dull it really bad. To get more opinions on the subject visit Blade Forum. Lots of good info and opinios there.
1672871
Sorry...can't help you with that question. All I know is that it's a great knife especially for the money. Buck has a great website if you wanted to look at other options, styles, etc.
1145117
I honestly dont know what the hardness of the blade is, due to the fact that the blades are not of a high quality these details are often not given with the product. However if you want a rough estimate on how hard the blade material is from my experience with them they loose their edge quickly while cutting boxes and its not very easy to get a sharp edge on them like on my ANSA knife. I would say that its the same as the hardness on regular 440 stainless steel nothing special here.
2080132
My knife has the Randall adventure training triangle on it. It also says on the blade near the handle Model 1 AUS-8 The US -8 means stainless steel. It is Taiwan but a nice knife for the money. All I can tell you. I don't know what BRK means
383510
Not really sure the grade of the steel used for this blade but I dont believe it is 440 stainless. I will say that for the price its a good heavy blade that takes an edge and has held it. My experience with 440 stainless is that it is a pain to sharpen and doesnt always hold the edge well.
2226702
Buck makes two stock models of their excellent 192. One is a laminate birchwood handle and the other is a high grip type rubber material. I think the 192 is one of the best, all around fixed blade knives on the planet. I build custom knives as a hobby. I can't duplicate their excellent hollow grind, nor the great 420HC steel:)
395799
No, not assisted at all. It's as smooth as glass though and fast if not faster than most assisted knives I have ever owned or tried. Couple of things to consider, the RAT is made in Taiwan and their fit and finish have beat everything I have seen from China. Secondly, and there are those that will argue there is no difference, the Rat is made with AUS8 steel compared to the 8Cr13MoV steel of the Cryo. I own several knives with both steels and I find the AUS8 to take a better edge and hold it longer. Lastly, on the "bargain priced" knives, hey I didn't say cheap...lol, I find the coatings to wear off quite easily and makes the knife look kinda bad in a very short amount of time. I'm a big fan of Kershaw and own several of their knives, in fact I have a few of their new ones on pre-order. Personally though if I were to choose between the Rat and the Cryo I would go for the Rat. Your mileage may vary... :)
135342
I have a Black Blur and a Red Blur. Both are indeed Sandvik 14C28N blade steel. Kershaw also makes this knife (and others) in CPM S30V, an even higher grade steel; that is it holds edge longer and is more corrosion resistant. But have no fear with this Sandvik steel. My experience with it on the Blur and on other USA-made Kershaws--whether coated with DLC or not--continues to be very satisfying. Sandvik or S30V? Add the cost issue and decide. With this knife, as I said, I have two w/ Sandvik 14C28N and am very happy. I would be with one (or 2) w/ S30V.
935751
The black SRK is SK5 steel which is a carbon steel easier to sharpen than stainless steel but won't stay as sharp will rust the one without the coating is San Mai III which is a higher quality stainless steel stay sharp longer won't rust as easily but harder to sharpen I'd go with San Mai III
1420663
High carbon stainless steel, so 420 C, 440 C, 1040, 1095 crovan steel... the carbon is what is making it hard to sharpen. I have several carbon steel knives and for the best edge I find that using a butcher's sharpening steel.
1201074
I measured one of them @~1/16" thick. "high carbon" and "high carbon stainless" are not the kinds of terms I would look for. These knives are VG-10 Steel, which is a high performance stainless steel- with what could be called a "high carbon" content of ~1%. The chromium (@15%) is what makes it stainless, and in this case, vanadium, molybdenum, cobalt, and manganese factor into the overall steel equation. It holds an edge remarkably well, while offering superior corrosion resistance. I put mine to a honing steel somewhat regularly, and sharpen maybe ever 3 months- but I like to maintain a shaving edge on these knives. They take the edge easily and hold on to it fantastic (using DMT diamond and then ceramic stones to polish). I have to say, I think it really depends on your own habits. These probably aren't ideal if you like to cut with more tight gripped downward pressure than a balanced slice. They're exceptional performing knives, but I think they're meant as more of a finesse instrument than a chopping tool. In my opinion, the balance and weight is great, the quality of the construction is obvious, and these are some of the best kitchen knives on the market. With fine diamond stones (I prefer DMT) and ceramic, they are very easy to maintain (a few minutes is usually all it takes to get it back to a scary shaving edge)-- but I wouldn't use them as cleavers in any sense whatsoever. If you're into finesse and slicing over brute-force chopping, I couldn't recommend these higher.
935754
They both have good steel. The first uses VG-1 steel which has a very hard core, the second uses AUS8A which is very slightly less hard. Pick the one in your price range, with the color you like. One caveat many black blades get marred with use and the inner steel shows through.
544865
Short of using your knife as a pry bar which I do'nt think anyone would this knife will hold up to the Benchmade. Having a dozen benchmades and a dozenDoug Ritter knives made by Benchmade, I think you would love this knife. The S30V steel is great sharpens well and holds an edge. The benchmades usethe 154cm steel which is great but I think the S30V steel is just a little better. John from Colorado
425532
I apologize, but I haven't had the packaging for a while. As I recall, the knife material is 8cr13.
1964616
I believe it is 8cr13mov. That is a Chinese steel but still get the job done!
459956
For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its such a small blade I would only get the serrated version and leave a plane edge to a large blade. For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its... » Read More For the H1 steel the seratted edge is much harder. Call up spyderco and ask them if you like. It will stay sharper longer, and is one of the hardest edges they make. The plain edge is much softer as the machining of the serrations increase the Rockwell hardness. With that said this knife is excellent size and the serrations are great for cutting through thick materiel such as rope, hard plastic tough corrugated boxes. I own many knives and keep them all very sharp. No plain edge will cut as well for harder materials as a serrated. That said the serrated wont slice as cleanly but, its such a small blade I would only get the serrated version and leave a plane edge to a large blade. « Show Less
2247072
"High Density Chromium Cobalt Carbon Vanadium Stainless Steel Blade" &lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; from the description. Definitely Stainless Steel
2247071
"High Density Chromium Cobalt Carbon Vanadium Stainless Steel Blade" <<<< from the description. Definitely Stainless Steel