How strong is this product? I have a broken and partially rotted gun stock that I would like to use. the forend would have to be cast and carved away
1682404
I used this kit to repair a section of a cedar porch railing. I used the two part liquid wood to stabilize the rotted wood first.I also used stainless steel screws so that the two part woodepox would have something to form around. The woodepox sets up very well. I found this product very workable after adequate drying time.
1682405
The treated wood is harder than real wood because the product binds the particles together and stops the rot. This product is a great restoration tool!
1682406
Probably would be quite strong enough particularly if the weapon is not a pump action. As T. Sutton commented, I also used a couple of screws to give the product a solid anchor into the existing wood. The product is very easy to mold, but make sure you overfill enough so you won't have any voids when you carve it down to the level you want, but even if there are voids, you can go back and fill in the voids as the product binds very good to the original fill. A Dremel tool easily removed excess material.
673714
It's literally 1/4" steel stock that has been ground down into a knife. If you have the strength to use it, it should work. You are going to break before it will.
1603469
Lots of rounds means heat, this means that metal will eventually move a bit. There is a chance that it will move forward on the barrel but the tolerance on the one I have is such that lateral movement is unlikely.
935581
You can take it apart but I'm not sure if you could find any parts that would easily fit in it. If you're asking because you want to raise the fps, I'm going to tell you that it might become highly inaccurate unless you get a longer barrel because the barrel on this is really short.
255000
It has an immitation wood handle and stock. If you want real wood parts, I suggest talking to your local gunsmith. But the battery is kept in the stock so...keep that in mind.
909730
I have no issues with this stock being flimsy whatsoever. Hogue makes some of the nicest and most used gun stocks and grips around. Quality is a non issue with them and I guarantee you will be happy with the quality of their stock.
650041
I would say overall it made at least a 50% difference in felt recoil and a very substancial difference in total weight which directly contributed to a tighter bullet grouping a 100yds.A GREAT product for my application and would recommend this product to anyone in need of a good replacement rifle stock.Thanks
1388520
More for a wooden type stock. Mini 14. But can work. Just tried it on one if the AR's. It will work. Better for fuller stock. Mini 14, Rem 700.
968753
pellets and bb's dont hurt it, a couple of paint schips. otherwise no damage. dont know how it would hold up to 22cal's though
2261809
It's very solid. I have it on an M&P; 15-22 with a slide fire stock and it gets a lot of shaking. Not have any adjustment problems.
2232722
It's extremely strong. Similar to the grips you find on firearms. Matte Black with a finish that seems like it's scratch resistant, not likely to fade or chip.
474241
As long as you have a part of the barrel that sticks out for the clasp to attach to don't see where you would have a problem. Interesting, free-floating stock I'm going have to look that up.
1851101
I drilled into a Remington Hogue Stock. Worked well, it should not be a problem with the Gunsite stock.
402061
I used soygel to remove polyurethane and epoxy coatings on gun stocks with good success. It takes a lot of gel and needs to soak for a few hours.
1020404
Your receiver needs to be drilled & tapped in a rare thread pattern if it already isn't (8-40?). Front sight will need to be epoxied or brazed on, preferable silver soldered. It's something that should be done by a gunsmith & not an easy project for the weekend warrior. I found out the hard way. Bought all the right tools & it still came out funky. Good luck Doc..Btw, the silver soldering process consists of removing barrels finish around bead, soldering & having to have refinished. $30-50 isn't realistic. It's more like $150-300 to get it done. Vang Comp out of AZ is a trust worthy place to have it done. They are pros who will do it right from start to finish. Your receiver needs to be drilled & tapped in a rare thread pattern if it already isn't (8-40?). Front sight will need to be epoxied or brazed on, preferable silver soldered. It's something that should be done by a gunsmith & not an easy project for the weekend warrior. I found out the hard way. Bought all the right tools & it still came out funky. Good luck Doc..Btw, the silver soldering process consists of removing barrels finish around bead, soldering & having to have refinished. $30-50 isn't realistic. It's more like $150-300 to get it done. Vang Comp out of AZ is a trust worthy place... » Read More Your receiver needs to be drilled & tapped in a rare thread pattern if it already isn't (8-40?). Front sight will need to be epoxied or brazed on, preferable silver soldered. It's something that should be done by a gunsmith & not an easy project for the weekend warrior. I found out the hard way. Bought all the right tools & it still came out funky. Good luck Doc..Btw, the silver soldering process consists of removing barrels finish around bead, soldering & having to have refinished. $30-50 isn't realistic. It's more like $150-300 to get it done. Vang Comp out of AZ is a trust worthy place to have it done. They are pros who will do it right from start to finish. « Show Less
836865
Yes, it should be fine. I have used this on a number of break barrel rifles, and it has held up well to the dual recoil, and should have no problems.
889258
If you're changing barrels on an AR it's best to get a bench vise and upper receiver vise block. Even a stout clamp on model will work okay for light duty (not every day gunsmithing) so you don't need a dedicated workbench. I've seen pics of some guys doing their builds with clamp on vises. This CTK is not the right tool for the job you're doing.