OK, so using the single-pole 1461-LHC with CFLs is "iffy" - perhaps more so with the 3-way 1463-LHC. But at enormous expense, I have gone beyond CFLs to LEDs. How do either or both of these switches work with them? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
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I use the 1461-LHC switch with this LED bulb: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZBJ25G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works fine, just like a regular switch with an incandescent.
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Find one with a higher wattage equivalent, they work but not as bright as i would like.I also need to keep one of the original bulbs in the circut. (7) LED & (1) regular filament bulb.If I didn't bulbs would constantly flash. Has to do with Malibu transformer voltage regulator.
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Hello Light waves, With no spec for lumens or CRI on Amazon, I'm almost as much in the dark (NPI) as you. However, I've had one of these running in a decorative spotlight for a few months, so I can make some comments. The color of the light is much better than a CFL, but not as nice as incandescent or the legendary Philips L-Prize bulb. Comparing it with various Philips and Cree LED bulbs that I'm currently using, I'd say the CRI is probably around 80, certainly no better than that. That's just an eyeball estimate though, YMMV. Brightness is roughly equivalent to a 25-30w incandescent bulb. If you use it in a reflector spotlight (I'm using it in an old boat searchlight - the reason I needed a bulb with a BA15D base) it makes an odd but interesting pattern on the wall because of all those individual LEDs spread over a large area. It doesn't dim very well, even with a PWM dimmer specifically for LED lights. However, after my initial experiments, and given it's modest light output, I never attempt to dim it anymore. You probably already know this, but just in case, be aware that this bulb has a BA15D (both bayonet pins at the same height) base. This means you can put it in the socket backwards and it will not work (I've done this a few times, it didn't destroy the bulb). Many bayonet base LED bulbs on the market use the BAY15D base (pins at different heights), preventing it from being inserted backwards. I have found the descriptions - even on Amazon - to be wrong about the base type occasionally, so always look at the pictures carefully to be sure the base type is what you need.
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I am not sure. JMK's review of Nov. 25, 2013 mentions using led's. I use cfl's.
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I would have to say no if I understand your question correctly. This switch works great with incandescent bulbs. Years ago when they came out with the CFL's I noticed this switch reactions to the pulse of the CFL ballast, which would turn the bulb right back on. My hopes were that with the ability of LED's to dim that I would be able to use these switches again, but my experience so far is that they do not work with the very low power consumption of 3 or 4 4-watt bulbs on one switch. I also experienced the same problem using a electronic flashing device for the early rope lights. When changing over to LED rope lights the 50' rope, the veritable adjustment on the flasher would not work unless I added a second 50' section. The flasher was rated for up to 9-amps, but it obviously had a minimum of 4-amps required for the flasher to work. Possibly this switch would work with 10 4-watt LED bulbs, but not with 15 watts.
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all timing switches need to have a neutral connector to work with CFL and LED, otherwise your bulbs will flicker. I found out the hard way. It's because regular timers allow a small amount of electricity to go through to power the timer itself which causes issues with CFL/LED bulbs which expect zero electricity when off.But from other people's photo of the wiring, I see a neutral connector on the back so the answer is YES it will work without the flickering issues for all bulb types.
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Together, but candlepower is such an obsolete measurement. Which KC would go with Lumens like everybody else. They are great lights, but I wish I would have gone with the 130W spot beams instead of the driving lights.
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The three settings are hi, low, and off. Hi is full wattage, low is half, and then off is off. The white ones seem to always hold up better- the brown ones (in my experience) had slippy rotary parts. When cycling through the three settings, they would skip settings unpredictably. Sometimes they didn't work at all. I never tried them with a CFL-- only incandescent bulbs. Not sure how that would work or if it would work. Hope this helps!
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dear friend: thanks for your attention and message,this item is 4 wire, only use for 3528 & 5050 RGB SMD LED Strip lights,can not use for single color Led strip light.if you have any question,please feel free to contact us . have an nice day
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As per usual english_august is reporting from outer space and is obviously a "space cadet". He or she doesn't have a clue about what he or she is talking about! Based on my experience with LEDs as an electronics experimenter, I believe that they will never dim or burn out. LEDs need a jolt of high voltage to burn them out. Their circuit can be designed to protect them from this. I hope this dude purchases his or her precious Sony and spends $600.00 to $1200.00 for replacement bulbs over the life of the set. In the meantime the rest of us will be enjoying our "Sammys" without fuss or muss and keeping our wallets intact.
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Matt, our bulbs are not insteon-compatible. After a ridiculous reply that I just noticed I have to mention that we use solid state power drivers which are indeed a new technology, not something of low quality as that "Mike" stated, and such power drivers are not compatible with Insteon. Seems like that "smart" guy knows more than we, who really designed the product. Our bulbs are the highest rated LED Bulbs on Amazon,fact that speaks for itself. But if you have insteon, I am sorry, our product is not compatible. If you have any other questions, we are always here to answer all of them! Matt, our bulbs are not insteon-compatible. After a ridiculous reply that I just noticed I have to mention that we use solid state power drivers which are indeed a new technology, not something of low quality as that "Mike" stated, and such power drivers are not compatible with Insteon. Seems like that "smart" guy knows more than we, who really designed the product. Our bulbs are the highest rated LED Bulbs on Amazon,fact that speaks for itself. But if you have insteon, I am sorry, our product is not compatible. If you have any other questions, we are always here to... » Read More Matt, our bulbs are not insteon-compatible. After a ridiculous reply that I just noticed I have to mention that we use solid state power drivers which are indeed a new technology, not something of low quality as that "Mike" stated, and such power drivers are not compatible with Insteon. Seems like that "smart" guy knows more than we, who really designed the product. Our bulbs are the highest rated LED Bulbs on Amazon,fact that speaks for itself. But if you have insteon, I am sorry, our product is not compatible. If you have any other questions, we are always here to answer all of them! « Show Less
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I've installed one of these switches with a LED floodlight from Home Depot. The light turns on fine, but when the switch is off, the light blinks about once every 2 seconds, like a flash. Very annoying. (And the directions specifically state to do NOT use with CFLs.) Get the EJ600 to use with LEDs.
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I have this working with CFLs in multiple locations. They work great. Also works flawlessly with LEDs.
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Illy-Den, can you tell me which specific halogen bulb to use? The previous bulb was a standard incandescent dimmable and I have been without the use of this fixture for months trying to find the appropriate one.
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I cant say yes for that specific bulb, I have nothing but LEDs and never a problem with any of them. I would feel safe to say yes.
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What if you have one more light, WHAT?How do you hook them up? I put all the red wires together and all the black wires together and hook them to power. Red to positive and black to ground. OR I hook up a positive thru the switch I'm using, and a ground from the battery then I "tap" into each with the LED strip wires. You HAVE TO WIRE THEM CORRECTLY RED TO POSITIVE, BLACK TO NEGATIVE OR THE LED WON'T WORK AT ALL. Its not like a regular light bulb that can be wired in reverse. Hope all this mess helps you.
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i had a Utilitech 15watt bulb for almost a year in it and it just died. i just started researching about why and i have a feeling this model isn't rated for CFLs since they have their own CFL specific dimmers. i'm not finding anywhere with a list of approved CFL bulbs for it either.