Is this a "dimmable" power supply? I would like to put a dimmer in-line with the 120V supply line and have the output dim based on my dimmer setting?
1680622
That's how I have mine set up; in line with a dimmer. It works well and has for the past six months or so. I'm not aware that you need a power supply that is specifically built for "dimming". As far as I know, any power supply will work as long as it outputs the correct voltage.
1680623
As it's a DC output it should be possible. Make sure the LED you use is also listed as dimmable on a DC transformer.
1680624
You never dim the 120v side of a power supply. Install a led dimmer after the power supply, on the 12v side. Most power supplies are made to output 12v even if the input varies a little. If you want to dim on the 120v side, buy a 120/12 transformer, a full wave bridge rectifier and a capacitor. Match the wattage of the components to what you need.
1680625
I am not sure as I have not tried to add a dimmer yet. I would like to. Let me know if it works for you & let me know what dimmer you use
1680626
This is not a dimmable driver. You would need a 100w magnetic driver to dim the line or 120v side to get the output to change.
1680627
I didn't try to vary the voltage to the power supply, my led lights dim post power supply.
2035994
Thank you for your inquiry.The dimmer switch can be installed anywhere in the line of lights but only the lights that are installed after the dimmer switch can be controlled with dimmer switch.Therefore, we would recommend to install dimmer switch between power supply and the first light. If there is any additional question, please feel free to let us know. Thank you.
1866198
I'm not sure you would be able to dim these. If you could, it would probably need to be done from the DC side of the power supply. There may be power supplies out there that have an integrated dimming function.
2228315
I've been running one for about a year now, no problems except I was using the load output to control some outside lighting (on at dusk, off at dawn) and it seemed to get confused and was turning the lights on and off randomly. I disconnected it and let it sit for a day and then reconnected it and it has been working correctly since. I am running a 100 WATT 12V panel into it, are you staying within the maximum input power and voltage levels (12v/260W or 24v/520W) specified?
7480
It is working fine for me. I have it in the dinning room running about 9 LED bulbs. 8 3.5 watts and one 12.5 watts. Works great. Used this to replace an X10 dimmer that was nothing but problems. Make sure you have a load and a nuteral in your switch box. You will use 3 wires to hook this up. The nuteral is going to connect to the lamp, the dimmer and the feed. Your load is going to connect to the dimmer. Your line is going to connect to the dimmer. Think of this dimmer as an appliance with a light connected to it. Comes with great instructions.
1757884
In the description is says: DimmableAll of our power supplies are compatible with dimmers, either 12 volts DC or 110 volts AC varieties.So, which is it??
1777621
It is dimmable but you must use a dimmer rated for halogen bulbs. If you use a standard dimmer for incandescent lighting you will get a buzzing from your lighting and the lights will flicker. Make sure not to exceed the maximum wattage or you will burn out the transformer.
1426584
I don't think that will work. It is a regulated power supply, so it will try to keep a constant output voltage even if the input drops. you need a 12v dc dimmer.
1257282
These lights are great, but I don't believe they can be dimmed. At least nothing about dimming support was mentioned with the product documentation and the transformer is expecting 110~120V. They aren't too bright though where I've found a case where I wanted them to be dimmed.
1062321
You are correct. This dimmer needs 12V input and will output 12V. It only can work with low voltage lights.
261867
No It's strictly for 1000 watt lights. the dimmable is to run the light at 75% and 50% of it's power. but it has to be 1000 watts.
1099302
Sure, if you are good with electrical stuff I see no reason why that wouldn't work and sounds like a good idea to me. You'd just have to splice into the existing wires, perhaps pre-tin, butt splice, and using shrink tubing. The dimmer is fed low voltage since it is inline with the transformer output, so not sure if a low voltage style dimmer is req'd, or if you can get by with a standard 120 VAC one (that part I have no idea).
1371406
Yes, it is a low voltage system. The power supply converts 120 vac to 12 vdc. You need to supply at least one amp to power up to 8 lighting strips (21 led per strip), 1.5 amps for up to 12 strips, etc. You could just purchase the lighting strips and interconnect cables rather than the whole system that includes the power supply. The strips mount with attached mounting tape and you could direct solder 2-conductor wire between lighting strips rather than purchase the interconnect cables, I did.
814256
I think this should work just fine - but I bought 2 dimmers and only one worked. The voltage of your power module is in the range of the dimmer and the current draw is well under the 2 amp. maximum. I cut the connectors off and soldered the wires directly into the circuit and the one unit works well.
1751207
I agree with all previous answers (No) and here is why: Typical Wall Dimmers for incandescent lights such as those typically found in Dining Rooms or over counter areas work with "resistive" loads (the lights) that form part of the actually dimmer circuit (i.e., the nichrome wire in the lights appear totally resistive). But the Power Supply input does NOT appear resistive since it is a "Switching" type that takes the AC in, rectifies it, filters it which turns it into DC in stage 1, then "Chops" it (to make AC again) at a much higher frequency to work with more efficiently through toroidal transformers that step it down to the voltage needed where it is rectified again, filtered and output as 12 VDC or whatever voltage it was designed for. So the load is not resistive at all and appears either capacitive (most likely) or inductive depending on the actual input circuitry and the Dimmer will either simply turn it off or on at some certain point or it MAY EVEN DAMAGE the power supply. I did what Terry Cathey did and put a dimmer on the 12 Volt side. I added a double-sized switch box to hold the IP67 and I took the old wall dimmer out and replaced with with the 12 volt 8 Amp (96 watt) dimmer available on Amazon from several vendors. The only problem was that I had to go find a new double sized switch box cover.
1757882
I doubt so. The unit is pretty much identical to any AC-DC converter you might find for any other electronic device, and they are built to expect a constant supply of power. The input specs on the unit also indicate it's input range would not accomidate a dimmer from what I can see.Your best bet from what I can see would be to purchase one of the PWM dimmer packages available if you would like to dim the lights off of this unit.
1982485
I just tested it, and it does work. However, keep in mind it will be extremely dim. Not only that, but in my case it was constantly flickering (however, this could have been due to lack of amperage). To be safe and sure, I'd go for at least a 12v 3a power supply. For my setup (11 strings total outside), I this for power: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HARHN8 Which I hooked up to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A46UAQO Using a single controller, with split outputs, for the colors.