I installed on concrete wall with 5ft 5/8 ply top. Its not folding flat against wall. Sticks out about 30 degrees. What am I not doing right?
1867346
Nothing. I have the same condition, but about 15 deg. I think it has to do with the thickness of the screw heads and which predrilled holes are used to attach the brackets to the wall. Attachment points may be limited to the very top and bottom points, which causes concerns with holding capacity. Mine are into wood, and I have elected to live with it. Good Luck.
1867347
Might be one last stop catch...im not near mine to see...also note that these brackets do not fold out to a true 90 degrees as things can roll out and off...others have told me same...must be a flaw in all of them
1867348
hmmm, not sure. mine is flat against the wall. some stupid questions: the short side is mounted vertically and the screws are all flush?
1867349
Double check that everything is true- May be binding if wall and top lines are not true. I also ran into an issue where the screw head I was using protruded too much and was holding up the assembly from closing flat. I had to drill a new hole where it wouldn't interfere.
1867350
Fooled me too. Just give it one more push and it folds flat to the wall. If it went all the way to flat you'd likely smush a finger.
389197
I have the same problem with my baseboard. You can still mount it because the pieces on top can be adjusted. It just won't sit flush with the wall.
702008
Sounds like a manufacturing error, the one I got is quite solid and stable. One solution to that might be to insert a sleeve to tighten up the loose space or if you just purchased it see if you can get it replaced.You might have to improvise and create one from plastic or something similar. Teflon would be great.
1434933
The top will pop off if you hit it in the middle inside the structure. Repeat same on bottom. Then the walls will Fold flat. I like mine.
1676655
Mine isn't wall anchored and it's pretty stable. I've two spacers at the top of the shelves to off set the small amount of space that is caused by the shelves being against the floor board on the bottom but that's all and it is very stable to me. If you feel it's not stable enough free standing then I'd use an anchor at the top. Another thing to consider is if you plan to lay anything on top of the shelves such as a thin book or DVD case, be aware that if your not careful, it might slip down the back and you might have to dig it out. This happened to me and I had to get a pair of grabbers to get it out. To keep this from happening again, I placed a shelf mat on top of the shelves. Hope this helps. Mine isn't wall anchored and it's pretty stable. I've two spacers at the top of the shelves to off set the small amount of space that is caused by the shelves being against the floor board on the bottom but that's all and it is very stable to me. If you feel it's not stable enough free standing then I'd use an anchor at the top. Another thing to consider is if you plan to lay anything on top of the shelves such as a thin book or DVD case, be aware that if your not careful, it might slip down the back and you might have to dig it out. This happened to me and I had to get a pair of grabbers... » Read More Mine isn't wall anchored and it's pretty stable. I've two spacers at the top of the shelves to off set the small amount of space that is caused by the shelves being against the floor board on the bottom but that's all and it is very stable to me. If you feel it's not stable enough free standing then I'd use an anchor at the top. Another thing to consider is if you plan to lay anything on top of the shelves such as a thin book or DVD case, be aware that if your not careful, it might slip down the back and you might have to dig it out. This happened to me and I had to get a pair of grabbers to get it out. To keep this from happening again, I placed a shelf mat on top of the shelves. Hope this helps. « Show Less
2128710
I am having the same problem. I plan to anchor it by placing a roped Brick O block to each corner post and lay one block on each side and back to prevent wind from getting under it. I have not tried it , but plan to.Please let me know of any ideas you get from others
1408049
It is critically important to center the lift on the sheet so you don't have a problem with the lift tipping to one side or the other while raising it. put a little piece of blue tape at the exact center of the sheet edge as a guide first. I found it best to have a pair of 2 x 4 blocks about 12" long to screw vertically to the studs as positioning rests on the studs about 6 ft. apart and 48 1/2" down from the ceiling. The blocks should also have a "lip" on the outside top end so the sheets won't slip off. I simply screwed a short block to the top flat side of the 2 x 4. The bottom edge of the drywall needs to contact the stud above the block so you will need to tip the sheet until it does so at a height just above the block. Warning! The "brakes" that comes on this unit are not good enough to hold securely so Do Not depend on them much. It is possible to tip the sheet up towards the ceiling joint (If you hold the lift towards the wall as you tip the sheet as far as it will go while on the lift arms) then off the top of the arms. The two front wheels contact the 2 x4 plate at the bottom before the sheet is vertical so it is not perfect. In my opinion it is best to get someone to help you hold the lift against the wall. It is safer and faster. 12 ft. sheets weigh about 60 lbs. The lift is much better for 4 x 8 sheets and for ceiling work. One last tip - To get the top edge of the sheet up close to the ceiling I wedged a couple tapered shims between the blocks and the sheet AFTER the sheet was on the blocks. Sliding the shims will adjust the sheet until you have a good top joint. As with anything, it may be possible to do this alone. I just wouldn't do it.
1742087
I understand exactly what you're talking about. I had that same problem. Try to do it BEFORE you mount it on the wall. In other words. play around with it a little and see if you can do it WITHOUT mounting first. I just checked mine and it is sitting perfectly, but it can be a pain to get it right. It WILL fit, but it will try your patience first.
2275135
Not much flexibility. If you don't get a good fit, one point wont be as strong and then it is not a sturdy fit. I noticed this with my wall. I have a section that must be off a bit and the top two points dont reach the wall, even though the bottom points do. It wont shut in that area.
1712148
It is NOT on center when pushed flat against the wall. The T.V. plate is about 1.5" to the right (or left), so you would want to compensate for this.
541492
Hi, the back of this unit is not finished so it is better to use it against a wall. Thank you!
1225208
I had limited space as well. The handle pulls out to turn on and then moves forward and backwards to change temp. I had my Plumber install it somewhat at an angle so the handle wouldn't hit the wall behind and it actually looks fine. The faucet looks and works great! Good luck!
272854
The area I protect is straight. But like another has said, put a brick or block on one end and work the curve. The less of a curve the more likely this will work.
55970
It doesn't really lay flat against the wall because the pipe coming out of the wall isn't flat to the surface of the shower, but it hangs in a straight loopey thing and doesn't curl...if that helps!
2078666
Mine is sheltered against a wall in my garden. However, it would take a high wind to blow it over once it has a few gallons of water in it, I believe. That said, it is quite lite when empty.
923313
I would put it somewhere in between 15 and 25 degrees. If you have a wall slopping at 45 degrees, you would still have the TV pointing 25 degrees to the floor. I would build a wood frame out of 2x6 lumber to line up with the studs in the wall and the holes in the TV mount. You would bring the bottom of the wood frame out about 10 or 11 inches. Use wood screws incase i'm wrong so you can rework it if necessary.Good luck
2232944
from what you are asking it sounds like you have the panels not on a flat surface, the instructions were clear as to how to mount them, I cannot understand why they would be sagging if they were laying flat as per the instructions. so without knowing how you have them installed I cannot picture why they would sag if they were installed on a flat surface ,like a roof top or on a plywood backing panels to support the unit, can you provide a picture of your installation?