Concert usage Hi , ive been eyeing this baby for sometime but i was wondering for concerts would it be good to buy the pancake version or the 14-45mm lens ?
1869221
The best way around that idiotic "photo pass" requirement would be to buy a used Leica M8.2, but that's a very different beast from either a P&S; or a DSLR.The GF1 should definitely do better than a TZ5, though it won't be up to DSLR standards. You might also consider the Olympus E-P1, which is very similar to the GF1 but has in-body image stabilization.
1869222
i wanted this one because it has dslr qualities and the use of a dslr is prohibited at shows unless you have a photo pass. So i thought this would be ideal . I shoot shows with my Panasonic DMC-TZ5.
692355
Great lens man, its very stable and fluid; I find it to be incredibly helpful for wides as well as shots in tighter. No buyers regret at all. Get this lens!! It is far more versatile with a full frame for sure. And good luck on your project! Would love to hear about it! Connect with me through facebook at facebook.com/ryan.monolopolus . Take care!!
1037163
I have to respectfully disagree with the recommendation for a 16-85mm VR. I have that lens, use it with my D90 and it's great for outdoor situations. Indoors, the 16-85mm is fine if you are using a flash. I can see using the 16-85mm for some interior church shots, but most of wedding shots are going to be of people. things, little details like bouquets, etc. You will want a lens that can handle low-light and can isolate a subject well (subject in focus - remaining areas blurry). You should check out primes. Fast zooms are nice, but they will defintiley set you back a lot of money. Look into these lenses: 1. Nikkor 50mm 1.8 - The poor man's lens for low light, decent bokeh, depth of field interestingness. $100 Everyone should have at least one fast lens and since this one is cheap, it's a good place to start. 2. Sigma 30mm 1.4 More money, but since it's wider than the above lens, a little more versatile, especially with DX sensor. $300 or more 3. Nikkor 85mm 1.8 - Like the 50mm but is more telephoto, so this is good if you are standing far from your subject but want to fill the frame with your subject. Good for concerts, theater, etc. 5. Nikkor 85mm 1.4 - This is a money-making lens for pro wedding photographers and portrait photographers. People fall in love with and worship this lens. Do a web search and you'll find out why. Very, very pricey. $1K but worth it. One thing about primes is that there is a definite learning curve to using them - especially at the wider apertures since the depth of field is SO narrow. You have to really work on learning to use them to maximize the number of keepers you have. BUT, these fast lenses help you to examine more work more critically, to look at your composition, technique, etc in ways that your kit lens never will :) Good luck with your photography!
2173346
The best review of these two lenses in on Ken Rockwell's website. I currently have the Canon35 1.4 and the 35 2.0 non-is. I also had the 35 2.0 IS but sold it and then got the non-IS on eBay. Why? The IS is great but big and I was looking to put together a lighter combo than the 5DMK3 and 1.4. I have a 6D that fits the bill and thought the new 35 IS would work well as an everyday combo to carry around. The image quality is very good but it is big. So, I sold it, found a good version of the non-IS, and in combination with the 6D it meets all my needs. Good quality images, smaller lens, less weight.
1829251
I have the E-M1, so I don't know about how the lack of OIS affects shooting on a Panny. I think the 25 is a nice lens--small, light, sharp, has decent bokeh, and focuses really fast. Some CA, some vignetting wide open, but easily correctable.
1124277
Sue, if you plan to stick to one system, you will want to buy the Olympus. The in-body stabilization allows it to work with any m4/3 lens, and the Olympus and Panasonic lenses are terrific. Buy the 45mm lens - open the aperture and begin taking pro quality portraits after a short time. Also, the Panasonic 20mm can't be beat for quality and size (though the Oly 17mm is great too, and smaller) and if you want the best zoom, get the 14-150mm Oly for the perfect travel set-up (which provides your wide-angle spectrum). Even a pro could get by with the 20mm, the 45mm, and the 14-150 (and you could always add the 12mm Oly later if you save your pennies!). The E-M5 will never be obsolete. Initial reviews and image samples allow it to challenge flagship, full-size competitors in many situations. I currently own the E-P3 and chose it over the Sony because of the huge gap in lens quality - and I don't regret it for a minute. The E-M5 is just a better all-around choice than any other small system.
1773306
I have the Oly 45 and 75, and the panasonic 25 and 12. The 75 is regarded and one of the finest lens around, and its very sharp, but its $900, and the focal length isn't always practical. For the money, the 45mm is my favorite. Its inexpensive and very sharp. When you hold it in your hand, honestly, it looks a little cheep but the results are excellent.
1884402
I replaced my Canon 60d and smaller Sony A55 with an Olympus E-P3. I've owned several intro/mid-level dSLRs, and I would say the E-P3 was my favorite camera of all time. My pictures were amazing, it was fast, and best of all was that it was truly portable - perfect for my hiking trips. Were you mainly using the camera in auto mode? I always used it in manual, so can't really tell you how good or bad the camera did in 'A' mode - but in manual mode it was nearly perfect. The lenses you use may also play a role. My favorite lens of all time had been (maybe still is) the Canon 24-70mm lens, and I thought I would never find something that worked just as well, but I came across the Panasonic 14-140mm lens, which is super amazing, and became my favorite and main lens for the E-P3. The lack of viewfinder was never an issue for me, since I used the VF-2 view finder by Olympus. Sure, I was never happy using the E-P3 without the viewfinder, so I kept it on most of the time. I did sell the E-P3 on Ebay soon after the OM-D was announced. I figured that if the E-P3 had become my favorite camera of all time, getting the OM-D would be a no brainer since the specs are better than the E-P3 and it included a built in viewfinder. I have used an NEX-5 (first gen) in the past, and I must say I hated that camera due to how hard it made to shoot in 'M' mode; however, Sony released the NEX-7, a nearly perfect camera targeted towards potential dSLR owners. Deciding between the NEX-7 and the OM-D is a challenge, and they each have their pluses and negatives; however, those looking to replace a dSLR for some trips, shouldn't consider anything other than the OM-D(m4/3) or NEX-7(e-mount) for the time being; although, I bet Panasonic has something in the works to compete with Sony and Olympus.
2004640
Which one did you finish up with? I'm interested because you said that you shoot mainly lanscapes, so why would you part with the 17-40mm? If your option had been for the 16-35mm f2.8L, I could have understood the reason, but a 24mm lens on any new camera (assuming it's not a film body, 5D or 1Ds) is only going to give you 31mm (1D) or 38mm (the rest). Not much good for landscape work.BTW, the 24-70mm eats the 24-105mm alive when it comes to contrast and sharpness, IS or not!
1150129
Thanks for your thoughts, Ken; I own the 24-105mm f/4L, but am looking for the best option for the extra focal length that makes portraits and candids really pop! As far as I can tell, even though the 200mm f/2.8 is well-built, people seem to have an almost religious zeal for the 135mm, making it all the more attractive.
632569
I have the same question, but will probably go with the Sigma because the OS will come in handy. I go to many concerts and need a lens that will allow me to get into the concert. A Canon L lens may be too big for a concert. The OS will allow me to take better shots with less light.If you dont need the OS and want the xtra 50mm then you must go with the Tamron. Quality wise, they seem close.I was looking at the Canon 55-250 with IS but it is large compared to the Sigma.
528654
I ended up with the 20mm and love it. I used it for 2 weeks before getting the additional 14-45mm lens. Why did I get the 14-45mm? Well, as Gary D. Wright stated above, the 20mm is great for family photos and photos that get you interacting with what you're taking pictures of. However, a major family event was coming up where I needed to get the zoom. the 14-45mm, although much bulkier, fit the bill to get photos (in this case I was taking pictures from a pew of family members on the alter). As for image stabilization, I haven't noticed a difference between the two since the 20mm isn't being used in 'zoom' as I would be for the 14-45mm. I used the camera much more when I have the 20mm on it. I ended up with the 20mm and love it. I used it for 2 weeks before getting the additional 14-45mm lens. Why did I get the 14-45mm? Well, as Gary D. Wright stated above, the 20mm is great for family photos and photos that get you interacting with what you're taking pictures of. However, a major family event was coming up where I needed to get the zoom. the 14-45mm, although much bulkier, fit the bill to get photos (in this case I was taking pictures from a pew of family members on the alter). As for image stabilization, I haven't noticed a difference between the two since the 20mm isn't... » Read More I ended up with the 20mm and love it. I used it for 2 weeks before getting the additional 14-45mm lens. Why did I get the 14-45mm? Well, as Gary D. Wright stated above, the 20mm is great for family photos and photos that get you interacting with what you're taking pictures of. However, a major family event was coming up where I needed to get the zoom. the 14-45mm, although much bulkier, fit the bill to get photos (in this case I was taking pictures from a pew of family members on the alter). As for image stabilization, I haven't noticed a difference between the two since the 20mm isn't being used in 'zoom' as I would be for the 14-45mm. I used the camera much more when I have the 20mm on it. « Show Less
158700
I'm somewhat new to this too, but I'll try to be accurate. First, this is a "Micro 4/3", not a dslr. Call it a point and shoot that "thinks" it's a dslr. As a user, "you" decide which you want it to be. The 14-45 lense included is 28-90mm in 35mm terms. This is comparable to a typical P&S compact with a 3x zoom. Most dslr user's would consider this a "walkaround" lens. Very useful and versatile for the type of shots common with a simple compact or entry level dslr. This camera has a unique feature called Extended Zoom (EZ) that allows an increase in "zoom" if you find the need on occassion. The camera has a functional pop-up flash as well as a "hot shoe" for using a specialized flash unit if you prefer. You must open the flash when needed, it doesn't pop-up automatically. Amazon has a 30 day return policy I think, and I think the warranty is 1 year, but check Panasonic.com to be sure. In years, most cameras will last indefinitely. In "shutter clicks" that is probably an unknown at this time. "I" am assuming that 50,000 clicks is certain and expect 100,000 or I will be sorely disappointed. At my rate of 2000 per month that buys me 2 to 4 years, but for most people that is a lot. That is roughly the range of a good dslr. That's probably 10 years for someone "normal".
32351
Get the biggest (smallest f-stop) lens you can afford. If you get "close to the action" a 50mm ish is adequate. If you shoot from your seat in the middle of the theater, go 85mm ish. In my opinion (worth next to nothing) money on two f1.x fixed lenses is better spent than on an f2.x zoom.
2105224
Oh yes. Perfectly. Highly esteemed, impecable 12mm lens for m4/3. I prefer instead of $ 800 the $ 125 Panasonic 14mm 2.5. I cannot see the difference in the pictures. With the difference buy the Panasonic 20mm 1.7, the sharpest lens I know and the 45mm Olympus 1.8, a really fun mid tele!
507557
I love the lens for its sharpness. It is very good lens. If you love nature photography, as I do, you will Love the lens. Can be used as general all purpose lens, if you can accept a fixed focal length. It is one of my favorites.
190583
This camera with the 20mm pancake lens is out of stock EVERYWHERE as far as I can tell. Panasonic's own web site lists it that way, as do every online store I've checked.... except, as you note, for the ones who are taking advantage of the temporary scarcity to charge hundreds of dollars more. I understand it's supply and demand, but I still think it's slimy, and I refuse to deal with those companies. Panasonic pretty clearly underestimated the demand for this model. I think everyone who reacted to the Olympus E-P1 with "Oh, cool idea, pity the auto-focus sucks so badly and they used such a low-res LCD display" wants a GF1 now. Best of luck on getting your camera before Christmas, but my guess is it's a long shot.