Can anyone tell me how to unfold this? I can't get one rail past the other. Do I need to unscrew one to get it past the second?
1877189
As I recall you do slide one off but you just haveto depress the pins to do so. I know I didn'thave to unscrew anything. Hope this helps!
1877190
There is a slot behind each wheel loosen the screw up and rotate the bottom frames up against the side frames.
1877191
To fold up you first pop off the top bars from the side bars. The side bars then will be free to fold outwards. Use an allen wrench to take out the fastener that connects the sides to the bottom bars. They will then be able to fold back over the bottom bars one at a time.
1877192
Per Classic Store Fixtures.. !!PLEASE READ!!.. DO NOT UNSCREW ANYTHING!!Other sellers of this Collapsible Double Bar Clothing Rack do not supply a set of assembly instructions. When you first receive this rack, it will NOT unfold directly unless you take the two "Adjuster Bars" completely off the rack. You will notice on the frame uprights on the inside of the rack there are chrome push buttons and open holes above them. Those two bars are to adjust the height of the top hang-rail. They both must be taken off the rack to be able to get the rack to unfold and the two side uprights to fold up. The Best way to do this is push the chrome button and turn/ twist the adjuster rode while its in the rack and then just pull it all the way out/ off the rack. That is what gets in the way of letting the side frame uprights fold up. After that, just put the adjuster bars back down the tubes into the rack. Also be careful whom you buy this Double Bar Salesman rack from on amazon, Alot of sellers advertise the commercial grade version of the Single & Double Bar Collapisble Salesman Rack but actually sale the cheaper knock-off version. That is made of a thiner steel tubing and not a solid clothing rack, meaning it comes apart in more places than just the top bar detaching from the rack. The entire bottom part of the rack should be one solid peice to rate as a true commercial grade rack. thanks Ben Elkin Classic Store Fixtures
2110156
I had this exact same problem. They were wedged together and my husband and I pulling together could not get the two pieces to separate. What I ended up doing that finally worked is this: Take two butter knives and stick them under the two tabs pushing them all the way up till you can see the tip of it coming through on the other side. Work them back and form and then start tugging. These seems to dislodge and unstuck it enough so you can get the two pieces apart. They work fine after this! It seems like they got pressed too tightly together during manufactoring or maybe the plastic dimensions are fiting just a bit too snug. I noticed from other reviews that when some people opened their product it was not "stuck" in all the way - whereas mine were completely pressed together where I could not see any of the ribbed bottom part. I think that may be why they became stuck. Hope this helps! We got ours apart!
1012365
No I never did find anything. Seems strange that no companies have developed a rail for this case. Let me know if you have better luck!
1011190
I don't have mine open now, but recall that the secret was to remove more screws and wires, which I think allowed separating the desired section. I initially tried what looked like the easy way with just a few screws, but the opening was not large enough to take it out that way, because protruding parts prevented mine from sliding out. If that's not clear enough, I can open mine again to refresh my memory.
1875127
Put your hands on one side, one hand on the metal bar in back and one on the metal side rail at the end. Push down til it clicks. Repeat on other side. Ours is 2 yrs old and still have to do this. :)
2025343
I thru mind in the trash. A total waist. It made the gun heavier and awkward to sight. I even had to modify the slide lock by fileing the pivot area to keep it from binding when in place. In answer to your question, just remove the slide lock lever, after removing the recoil spring and bushing, then place your rail mount over your slide aligning the hole on the mount over the slide lock hole, then insert the new slide lock, (provided) and align with hole in the mount and gun and insert threaded pin through mount, slide lock and gun. Tighten everything. Make sure slide lock doesn't bind.
1977578
I had a similar issue, and I wouldn't call it terrible, but there was definitely a wobble perpendicular to the track/rail. Tightening the bearing to the point that sliding movement is slower solved the issue though. Have you checked the bearings themselves? Is there a rust spot forming that might be making this movement?
61022
I believe that the word "folding" is misleading. I lift it up by the rail end and tilt it up on end. More like TILTING than folding. Hope this helps! Once it is in this situation, it takes up very little room.
1255475
There should be enough play to level it out before you set the screws with lock tight. I'm guessing that the rings may be a bit high on your scope. See if you can find some lower profile rings but still keep it off the rail.
549110
Hi, You need to order it that way or a combination of those rail pairs.http://www.pipelineracks.com/faqs.htm
2091519
Yes. I had this same experience on an AR. The way the optic closes on the rail is somewhat awkward, however, what worked for me is:Make sure the bottom is FLUSH on the rail. Once it is sitting on the rail, pull the loose end of mount inward to the rail. With one hand, hold it down on the rail. With the other, screw the mount in. I could of swore it would never go on and it feels like it was solidly on at times but still rocked loose. Trust me, this is the worst part about the optic. Once you mount it successfully, you'll see what you were/are doing wrong and every time after that is easy. Yes. I had this same experience on an AR. The way the optic closes on the rail is somewhat awkward, however, what worked for me is:Make sure the bottom is FLUSH on the rail. Once it is sitting on the rail, pull the loose end of mount inward to the rail. With one hand, hold it down on the rail. With the other, screw the mount in. I could of swore it would never go on and it feels like it was solidly on at times but still rocked loose. Trust me, this is the worst part about the optic. Once you mount it successfully, you'll see what you were/are doing wrong and every time after... » Read More Yes. I had this same experience on an AR. The way the optic closes on the rail is somewhat awkward, however, what worked for me is:Make sure the bottom is FLUSH on the rail. Once it is sitting on the rail, pull the loose end of mount inward to the rail. With one hand, hold it down on the rail. With the other, screw the mount in. I could of swore it would never go on and it feels like it was solidly on at times but still rocked loose. Trust me, this is the worst part about the optic. Once you mount it successfully, you'll see what you were/are doing wrong and every time after that is easy. « Show Less
2097262
Yes, I had to drill through my top rail. I cant think of any way you could get around drilling. The result is 2 screw heads visible on the top of the rail. I just made sure the holes lined up perpendicular to the pool wall and they really arent noticable or bothersome. It's worth the tradeoff, ive had mine for 2 seasons now and they're great!
1794293
You have to clamp the barrel, I belive the stock is to flimsy. I wrapped the barrel with cardboard and tightened down with a screwdriver, It looks really nice on a SR, you won't be disappointed.
1746274
I think the shape of the brackets would not fit correctly over a round rail. Sorry.
808851
I have the same problem but, funny enough, not with the rail itself, which is quite tight on mine, but with the screw that tightens where the rod from the light stand is inserted.
1880157
If you could find the proper glue. Better to get the correct rail for your gun. Can take a bit of effort. But in long run better off having it screwed on. Then you can remove it if you ever have/want too.
1077628
Yes, I had difficulty with this myself. If you pull the drawer out until it stops, you will see on either side of each drawer a very small black piece of plastic (about 1/8 inch by about 1 inch long) in the middle with the silver metal rail behind it. If you lift that on both sides, the drawer should then come forward and you should be able to remove it. Hope this helps.