For the biggest size (M8 or 5/16) does it feel like the tool is strained to do the job? is it fool proof so I don't strip things (when to stop?)
480891
It works perfectly with no excess strain and you can feel when it is completely seated. It's easy to adjust the travel also so you don't have to pull it all at once.
1708552
Not as far as I am aware. The jaws and bladeon mine close completely and symmetrically depending upon the gauge of wire I'm stripping. I haven't had any issues other than it cutting (instead of stripping) fine wire on occasion. One thing I did to to make use a bit less cumbersome was to take off the yellow stripping length gauge off as it was getting in the way and would cause the ends of multifilament wire to fray and burr while being stripped. It's the yellow piece on the blade side of the tool, just comes off with a Philips screw driver. Hope that helps.
541103
Maybe I should have clicked, "I don't know". But I feel inclined to not ignore the question. I cannot try it, as I do not have any tile in my house, but given the sensitivity of the tool, I would say that it would. It has saved my saw blade on a number of occasions in the old barn lumber I bought it for, broken off nails that were somewhat deep. If the tile is only a 1/4" thick, I'm pretty sure it would pick it up. Key point is to turn it on far away from metal. I think it kind of zero's itself out, and then it will pick up a nail WITHOUT head in would from about an inch away. Hope this helps. I am very impressed for the ability versus cost. Maybe I should have clicked, "I don't know". But I feel inclined to not ignore the question. I cannot try it, as I do not have any tile in my house, but given the sensitivity of the tool, I would say that it would. It has saved my saw blade on a number of occasions in the old barn lumber I bought it for, broken off nails that were somewhat deep. If the tile is only a 1/4" thick, I'm pretty sure it would pick it up. Key point is to turn it on far away from metal. I think it kind of zero's itself out, and then it will pick up a nail WITHOUT head in would from about an inch... » Read More Maybe I should have clicked, "I don't know". But I feel inclined to not ignore the question. I cannot try it, as I do not have any tile in my house, but given the sensitivity of the tool, I would say that it would. It has saved my saw blade on a number of occasions in the old barn lumber I bought it for, broken off nails that were somewhat deep. If the tile is only a 1/4" thick, I'm pretty sure it would pick it up. Key point is to turn it on far away from metal. I think it kind of zero's itself out, and then it will pick up a nail WITHOUT head in would from about an inch away. Hope this helps. I am very impressed for the ability versus cost. « Show Less
765356
no way, this is good for a few inches in awkward places when other tools won't do. if your doing more than taking out a few inches, find something else.
2000089
When you use a drill you have to fight it as it wants to twist. When it hits a lot of sudden resistance it can feel like it is going to twist your arm off. You can use the torque setting, but that just stops the drill from doing anything. With a impact driver, when it hits resistance it starts hammering it. The big difference is you won't feel it trying to twist out of your hand. So it is much easier to drive into heavy resistance materials. Want to drive a two inch screw into wood without predrilling, no problem. Try that with a drill and you have a fight on your hands. The down side is there is no torque limit, so it is easy to over drive things. Almost too much power. The other down side is the noise. Before it hits resistance it sounds like a normal drill, but once it does hit resistance it starts hammering. Actually the hammers are small and internal, but noisy. Sounds like a construction crew. One other note, the drill has chuck that fits various bits. The impact driver has just a 1/4 inch chuck only. Pull the outer part to put a bit in or take one out. To drill with it, you need special drill bits with the 1/4 inch hex ends. I use the impact driver more then the drill. It has the power, I just need to be careful to stop before I strip or over drive a screw.
544869
I've been using mine for 2 years now without any real issues. That being said it is a thinner tip for precise cutting tasks. I wouldn't do heavy prying with this knife because there are far better tools for that. Quality is top notch and its been one of my favorite knives to date.
1861004
I can't imagine why it would be a factor. If you have thatch and you want to remove it easily, this is a great tool. I spent too many years doing it by hand. Just try it on the highest setting first to make sure it is not pulling out more than you expected. I do that for the first pass and then lower it if necessary.
1519591
Depends on how tight but, it does have some nice attachments.If it' super tight you might want to consider buying a Dremel to get the tight areas - that's what I do.I use both tools. Good luck!
1343313
I have had mine for about a year now and it is much more robust than other models. You cam use different shank sizes without changing out parts like other models since it has a standard chuck. It also doesn't bog down like other models. The handle doesnt get hot in your hand either and its mot as bulky as it looks Its quite comfortable. This is my third dremel brand rotery tool. The last two were high end dremels and this one is the best I have ever owned. I use mine for cutting/carving plastic, wood, metal and have used it on bone and it works great. I did replace the foot switch with a router speed control so i can swirch it on by hand a adjust the speed without getting a cramp in my leg. Hope this helps. I have had mine for about a year now and it is much more robust than other models. You cam use different shank sizes without changing out parts like other models since it has a standard chuck. It also doesn't bog down like other models. The handle doesnt get hot in your hand either and its mot as bulky as it looks Its quite comfortable. This is my third dremel brand rotery tool. The last two were high end dremels and this one is the best I have ever owned. I use mine for cutting/carving plastic, wood, metal and have used it on bone and it works great. I did replace the foot switch... » Read More I have had mine for about a year now and it is much more robust than other models. You cam use different shank sizes without changing out parts like other models since it has a standard chuck. It also doesn't bog down like other models. The handle doesnt get hot in your hand either and its mot as bulky as it looks Its quite comfortable. This is my third dremel brand rotery tool. The last two were high end dremels and this one is the best I have ever owned. I use mine for cutting/carving plastic, wood, metal and have used it on bone and it works great. I did replace the foot switch with a router speed control so i can swirch it on by hand a adjust the speed without getting a cramp in my leg. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1768277
Well you've already received 2 responses but for what it's worth I did receive a material clamp with my saw. Similar in design & function as the one I use on my Porter Cable 12". As for any slop or undesirable movement when fully extended I can say that I haven't experienced any problems. If you don't have a bench top to place your saw, I would highly recommend the Dewalt DWX723 Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand. Easy to set up, you can set up either side for material support or positive stop if you plan on cutting material the same length over & over again. It is absolutely solid & I've been impressed with the design. Hope this helps you. Good Luck.
1047894
My tool came tight as you have described, used mine pretty hard for about a week and it's broken in well now.
1128066
I used the tool yesterday on a ride and did not have any problems. Sounds as if something is bent or is there any dirt in the tool.
262144
to be honest with you this will only work done stripped heads that are not seized up. if this thing is seized in there you're going to want to go for the next biggest tool. if you think you could get it out if you could just get a grip on it but then this will probably work. I broke a couple of mine in this set. They are decent, but have limits.
2175690
Yea,that's about right.You need a lot of leverage when using a torque wrench.Smaller than the Craftsman 1/2" clicker type I've had for years.Works well so far.Only downside is I use it rarely so install/uninstall battery with every use.
2060117
That would not concern me. Mine does too. A lot of slotted tools that take bits do that, but if you're holding it upside down and the bit is falling out without touching it, your bit-extender is probably the problem and it's not retaining the bit. Otherwise, I wouldn't be critical if there is some movement.
399711
I tend to use mine more for precision work, where there is a need for more portability or where my full size rip saw cannot get in. I would cut 3/4" materials with a full size unit.
1640065
Russe, it is not strength is the issue, it is the fact that it is utter crap build quality. The center line of the tool was over 0.092" of center. As long as you dont need precision drilling it might hold up.