Why does the description say drive current is 15-20mA when the data sheet for the relay used on the board claims a nominal coil current of 71.4mA?
448138
The optical isolators run on a current of 15-20mA. They then drive the coil to it's required current of 71.4mA. Your board will drive the optical isolators.
448139
I would go with the data sheet numbers normally. But I drive one of these boards directly from an Arduino and never had any problem. So go figure.
924531
That depends. The 12VDC power supply that you use must have the current capacity for operate all the relays (Assuming there is the potential for all 16 to be active at once) I don't have a relay board available to test, but would guess the coil current to be about 50 mA. x 16 that means I'd expect the board to require at least 1 Amp with overhead. The Arduino plus any other users on the bus have to be added so I'd use at least a 2 amp supply to run the system.
1129681
You can look it up online or in your manual. It looks like it's 15 amp. Also it would be good to check if there are many functions powered by the same fuse because that could cause issues.
1409331
You're right, Scott, there is not a lot of information and the information that is given is wrong.(see my question about the schematic shown... be sure to read the comments to the answers.)The standard SI solenoid that this is based on is 100 amps continuous and 300 amps surge.In this form factor, that is typical.Whatever you do, DO NOT wire it per that diagram.Do yourself a favor and buy the Intellitec Battery Disconnect Relay or Parallax disconnect.
926769
One think I failed to mention, the PTAC is 220 volt. It is on a 30 amp breaker. That has a potential to be 6.6 KVA by itself. This is worst case, but I suspect it pulls at least half that. You might want to do the math on your heat pump, but I suspect it is too much.
1976410
It is 12 volt DC to operate it and the contact are rated at 150 Amps @ 12 VDC. It could be used in an engine starting application, but is probably "over kill" for use to operate a fan. I would think a smaller relay would be better for a fan.
177282
on the back of the socket it reads: Remote Control Switch Model no:BH9936Voltage: 120 Vac/60 Hz Current: 10A UL Listed
538271
NO, that's not true, U.S uses 120vac, rest of the world is 220, the relay can take up to 250vac, so you're good, I'm an Electronics technician by the way :)
1685561
The nameplate amps is 15 Amps. The start up Amps must run higher on mine because it will trip my 20A breaker when I go to start it and then I reset the breaker and it will take off. Then it will run fine though.
1713466
Andy - I connected my contactor to a Variac and measured the coil current. I measured the following: Pull-in current 145mA to 155mA. Sustaining current 60mA. Drop out current about 30 mA. The solenoid buzzed really badly if the available current was LESS than 145 mA at pull-in, which leads me to believe that your problem is the output driver on the motion sensor can't provide enough current to pull the contactor in. You can measure the sensor output current to the contactor coil by CAREFULLY connecting a multimeter, set to the 10 amps AC scale, in series with your coil drive circuit, and monitor the amount of current it's putting out while the contactor buzzes. Be careful, 120 volts. If your driver can't provide the current to drive the contactor, one way around this would be to use a second, smaller relay to pull in the bigger contactor. Typical "ice-cube" 120v coil relays just require ~ 10-20 mA to pull in. Then this small relay's contacts could activate the coil of the larger contactor. If your motion sensor is providing the proper current then the problem may be related to noise, but I'd check your driver circuit's current capability first. Greg Walz greenlite350@aol.com
182454
It appears that the idle "off" current is about 10-15 mA - a constant load of less than 0.2 watts
1017870
mine did NOT come with schematic or documentation of any kind. I would NOT expect it to operate a low current relay, the output will only trigger a logic level signal in the very low milliamp range. 0-5vdc
1866844
The reason for the 15 amp rating is probably because the conductor is aluminum not copper. If it was copper it should say that in the conductor description. 12/3 cu.
825470
The outputs are "relays", which are mechanical contacts. They therefore do not have a minimum current load.
35589
Its 100A max input which would point toward 6gauge if you want to provide full current capacity. I however used 8guage as I'm only pulling maybe 60A max.
700924
First, the answer is NOT 500ma (.5) as someone else replied. That is the no-load idle current, NOT the MAXIMUM current. While I don't see an official answer, based on the claimed 87% efficiency, the maximum load and surge, and a battery voltage estimate of 13 volts, a little rough math gives us a possible full load current of a bit over 132 amps, with a possible surge current reaching twice that number. Keep in mind these are just some quick back of the napkin figures, and are not a substitute for the manufacturer's published rating. BOTTOM LINE: Contact them before wiring it, I'm just somebody on the Internet making unreliable wild-eyed claims about electricity. First, the answer is NOT 500ma (.5) as someone else replied. That is the no-load idle current, NOT the MAXIMUM current. While I don't see an official answer, based on the claimed 87% efficiency, the maximum load and surge, and a battery voltage estimate of 13 volts, a little rough math gives us a possible full load current of a bit over 132 amps, with a possible surge current reaching twice that number. Keep in mind these are just some quick back of the napkin figures, and are not a substitute for the manufacturer's published rating. BOTTOM LINE: Contact them before wiring it, I'm just... » Read More First, the answer is NOT 500ma (.5) as someone else replied. That is the no-load idle current, NOT the MAXIMUM current. While I don't see an official answer, based on the claimed 87% efficiency, the maximum load and surge, and a battery voltage estimate of 13 volts, a little rough math gives us a possible full load current of a bit over 132 amps, with a possible surge current reaching twice that number. Keep in mind these are just some quick back of the napkin figures, and are not a substitute for the manufacturer's published rating. BOTTOM LINE: Contact them before wiring it, I'm just somebody on the Internet making unreliable wild-eyed claims about electricity. « Show Less
727854
Because my application does a lot of switching, I opted to use them as pilot relays for larger, power relays. I can't say that I've ever seen a relay heat sinked, but my concern with the higher current levels was contact pitting. Using them at their limit could cause pitting and therefore even more resistance and heat.