I'm worried about the eggs going dry, is this incubator all I need to produce Leopard tortoise eggs successfully or should I get some Vermiculite.
476706
Buy the vermiculite as well. The incubated is set up to hold some water in the bottom but you want some small dishes with moist vermiculite to hold the eggs in. The water at the bottom of the set up is to keep the vermiculite from drying with the heat
476707
I have successfully raised 36 baby Leopards using this product. You will need to place the eggs in a container containing vermiculite, eggs about halfway covered. Soak the foam pad in warm water and wring out a bit. Keep humidity above 70 percent by adding water to foam and by misting the eggs lightly every day. Keep heat at around 87 degrees or so.
869320
I would suggest that you add it for next time. You need to adjust and keep track of the temperature before adding your eggs to the incubator for at least 24 hours. In other words, you will have to keep a close eye on the temperature to maintain the eggs at the most constant temperature for hatching. Adding the fan will help but you need to make sure the temperature isn't too out of range.
1563465
Mine took a month, still waiting on two to hatch. Maybe temp outside ?. Tiny ants got to one of the two yet to hatch. Waiting to see what happens with that one. Good luck !
416226
I actually leave mine in the tank because my Discus prefer laying eggs on it. Since smaller than tank walls and easily removed, I occasionally clean it. That way its easier for the to clean and use as a fungus safe egg laying spot. After time the side in the tank may fill with water so it doesn't float readily if the other is removed, but that is no big problem. Mine is many years old and the abrasive and felt began to degrade. They sell new skins that you can peel off the old and put new on. They work great for about a year or more, but I ultimately bought a new one. The old was maybe 8-10 yrs old. Fair use for the money. I actually leave mine in the tank because my Discus prefer laying eggs on it. Since smaller than tank walls and easily removed, I occasionally clean it. That way its easier for the to clean and use as a fungus safe egg laying spot. After time the side in the tank may fill with water so it doesn't float readily if the other is removed, but that is no big problem. Mine is many years old and the abrasive and felt began to degrade. They sell new skins that you can peel off the old and put new on. They work great for about a year or more, but I ultimately bought a new one. The old was maybe 8-10... » Read More I actually leave mine in the tank because my Discus prefer laying eggs on it. Since smaller than tank walls and easily removed, I occasionally clean it. That way its easier for the to clean and use as a fungus safe egg laying spot. After time the side in the tank may fill with water so it doesn't float readily if the other is removed, but that is no big problem. Mine is many years old and the abrasive and felt began to degrade. They sell new skins that you can peel off the old and put new on. They work great for about a year or more, but I ultimately bought a new one. The old was maybe 8-10 yrs old. Fair use for the money. « Show Less
1972996
Heat bulb. (dont forget a UVB bulb as well) As for moisture, I spray the cage several times a day. If you can afford it, there is a humidifier-mister you can use as well. Chameleons need this type of cage rather than glass. My first chameleon died after spraining his tongue in a glass cage (pet store suggested it) Dont ask anything about reptiles at a big chain pet store. It is rare that anyone knows anything about reptiles, especially chameleons.
1332181
I am a bit of a Newbie too. I will ask my friend who has been helping me and answer again if he says different. I am not familiar with a hatch pad but there is not much room between the screen and the egg turner. You can remove the turner and just turn by hand to make more room. Also I don't know if the hatch pad is porous or if it would block or interfere with the humidity from below. None of my chicks got caught in the screen. A few got stuck on their backs in the egg turners. My biggest concern is that the heater coil on the lid can create a nasty burn. My friend burned his hand on it. Not much feathers on the little chicks just hatched and all wet! It never turned out to be a problem tho. I am a bit of a Newbie too. I will ask my friend who has been helping me and answer again if he says different. I am not familiar with a hatch pad but there is not much room between the screen and the egg turner. You can remove the turner and just turn by hand to make more room. Also I don't know if the hatch pad is porous or if it would block or interfere with the humidity from below. None of my chicks got caught in the screen. A few got stuck on their backs in the egg turners. My biggest concern is that the heater coil on the lid can create a nasty burn. My friend burned his hand on it.... » Read More I am a bit of a Newbie too. I will ask my friend who has been helping me and answer again if he says different. I am not familiar with a hatch pad but there is not much room between the screen and the egg turner. You can remove the turner and just turn by hand to make more room. Also I don't know if the hatch pad is porous or if it would block or interfere with the humidity from below. None of my chicks got caught in the screen. A few got stuck on their backs in the egg turners. My biggest concern is that the heater coil on the lid can create a nasty burn. My friend burned his hand on it. Not much feathers on the little chicks just hatched and all wet! It never turned out to be a problem tho. « Show Less
1626205
This advice is probably a little late for you, but here it is for next time. Here are 2 things to keep in mind. (1) It really is important to run the incubator for 2 to 3 days before setting the fertilized eggs in it. Keep a careful record of the temperature for that time and interact with the temperature setting knob until the incubator keeps the the internal temperature to plus or minus 1 degree of the desired temperature (which is dependent on what species of bird you are trying to hatch). If you are unable to keep the internal temperature within the desired range, and you are keeping the incubator in a draft-free place with an ambient temperature of 60 to 80 degrees F, then there is a good chance that the thermostat of the incubator could be faulty. (2) Try starting the temperature stabilization process with the thermostat knob at the mid-point of the scale. If the temperature just keeps rising and never stabilizes, then your unit almost certainly has a thermostat or other problem. I would then return it the the manufacturer for repair. When I got my incubator, it came with an inexpensive red fluid thermometer. I wanted more accuracy than it could provide, so I purchased 2 additional digital thermometers. They cost about US$15.00 (on Amazon, I think) each and one of them even had a humidity indicator on it. Humidity is as important as temperature when hatching poultry. The picture published of you incubator looks as though yours does not have an internal fan. If yours can be retrofitted with a fan, you would be able to maintain a more even internal temperature in a properly working incubator. I hope this helps you and good hatching!
1890819
Actually it should. These types of incubators were originally designed for chicken eggs and the reptile hobby found them useful.
329961
if a desert tortoise hatchling does not have enough humidity during the "growing period," it will definitely pyramid. That and overfeeding are the major causes of pyramiding in desert tortoises. Humidity during the growing period is a must. Their burrows in their natural habitat are humid.
1626207
There is indeed a problem if you wish to sleep ..I had arranged to return the product due to the erratic temperatures but I had nowhere else to put the eggs until my new incubator arrived. Of 11, three hatched, one was obviously not viable, but I left the other seven and the third chick in it at a temp of 100 (at hatching 98 is better). On impulse I removed the third hatchling and put him in in thebrooder. Good thing. When I awakened in the am the temp was105 and I lost all seven eggs.Even with a digital thermometer to motor the inconsistencies, unless you are there 24/7 there is no solution for the problems. There is indeed a problem if you wish to sleep ..I had arranged to return the product due to the erratic temperatures but I had nowhere else to put the eggs until my new incubator arrived. Of 11, three hatched, one was obviously not viable, but I left the other seven and the third chick in it at a temp of 100 (at hatching 98 is better). On impulse I removed the third hatchling and put him in in thebrooder. Good thing. When I awakened in the am the temp was105 and I lost all seven eggs.Even with a digital thermometer to motor the inconsistencies, unless you are there 24/7 there is no... » Read More There is indeed a problem if you wish to sleep ..I had arranged to return the product due to the erratic temperatures but I had nowhere else to put the eggs until my new incubator arrived. Of 11, three hatched, one was obviously not viable, but I left the other seven and the third chick in it at a temp of 100 (at hatching 98 is better). On impulse I removed the third hatchling and put him in in thebrooder. Good thing. When I awakened in the am the temp was105 and I lost all seven eggs.Even with a digital thermometer to motor the inconsistencies, unless you are there 24/7 there is no solution for the problems. « Show Less
1125705
I would reconsider about getting this one. But if you do decide to get this one, good luck:)! Hope you have success. This incubator requires a LOT of work maintaining the temperature, humidity and turning the eggs. It comes with instructions. I would put all of the eggs in together. It is very difficult when you have different eggs on different days.
1436320
No but I bought a cheap thrrmo/humidity-meter and stuck it in with my panther eggs. I either fill the bottom tray with water or leave a cup of water in witht he eggs. It is possible to achieve 99% humidity and maybe more my thermo only goes to 99 but you have to keep up on it once a week to keep it there.
134440
Hi .... Ok... You might want to try a Zoo Med submersible filter for turtle tanks. They have a smaller one which would be good. Try it with a little more water in the tank. At least 5 gallons. Zoo Med Microclean 304. Just make sure you have lots of plants and decorations for the baby to hold onto and rest himself. And of course a little place for him to come out of the water to dry off with proper UVA/UVB lighting. Hope this helps!
1050494
before answering how much water is in the tank and how dirty are the animals living in the tank. I'l using the XP-M for one rather large and dirty red eared slider - and it does great job. Its a little overkill for a breeders tank (holding about 30 gals of water). I went overkill so I would have to clean as often.
1573254
I was terrified also, but it works perfectly. I am thrilled with mine (and have been for more than 10 years). Even the freshest of eggs can be hard-boiled then peeled. Just be sure you have the proper amount of water and that the plastic covers the metal. It is truly a "Gimmick" which Works! hoorah!
260481
I think the typical "cool dry place" out of the sun would be best. I would apply them as soon as possible to avoid them going bad. I don't know that cold will affect them. "it is likely that extremes of cold, drying or high summer temperatures would kill off nematodes..." Avoid extremes. How to apply? That was annoying and messy. If I recall, it said to mix the stuff with some water and soil, then spread after the sun has gone down. That would give the nematodes time to dig info the soil before the suns comes back up. The directions were on the container. The real question is - did it work? I'd have to say yes. We've had grubs outside our yard and found the occasional grub in the yard. Significantly less of an issue than before. I'd like to think they worked. Without some sort of test, there's no real telling. A lack of grubs, no an elimination of grubs is good enough for me. Another thing we did was buy fishing worms and applied them to the soil. Here in Arizona, the worms are, pathetic. Since then, we've had worms in our yard and they've been healthier looking than the scraggly things that we used to find. Terrible soil here in Arizona.
1164489
I would use a mixture of vermiculite and pete moss (about 2/3 to 1/3 ratio), thoroughly mixed and moistened, but wring out the excess water, and partially bury the clutch of eggs in the mixture, leaving the tops of the eggs exposed to the air. Do not let the bedding dry out, remoisten if necessary. Also put the water in the bottom of the incubator according to the Reptibator instructions. To keep your Reptibator clean, put the bedding and eggs in an open tupperware container, in the incubator...no lid. This should work great.