Do you apply this before you seal a wood piece of furniture with wax or after?
452515
This product is color embedded in wax, so you squeeze out a bit and rub it on the area you want to, gild. Then you can apply wax over it, but I would take care to not have the covering wax dissolve the rub and buff gilding.
1805836
cabinet makers wax Brand.. I have never used? I quess, I would spray it onto a Soft Rag, and gently rub and see what results you get :)
1881024
I am not sure if you need to treat your surface first. I was using it on brand new wood surface. One thing that surprised me was that it doesn't go on "like paint" because it requires mixing a catalyst with the rubber first, very messy and you better get the proportions just right. I must say that once mixed, it does go on easily and thickly and provides great protection so far.
1804112
I used a similar waxless seal...be sure to follow directions on the packaging.
906404
The wax? Not at all. Just be sure to warm it up with your fingers (body heat) before applying. Also, make sure to brush in thoroughly.
852810
wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally... » Read More wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. « Show Less
1971065
This is a wax product, which means you absolutely *must* remove it before painting.Fortunately, it can be easily removed with mineral spirits.
1970385
While wearing gloves use an old spoon or stick to take out a small amount of the wax. With whatever your using it to apply (I use cheese cloth)it will be come smooth and cream as you rub it into your furniture. I actually let it sit for a bit, then rub with the grain until actual results are obtained.I have a special brush, a semi-firm round bristle brush to get into all the nooks and spaces.In warmer weather the paste is softer, but it does warm with the warmth of your hand. Please DO NOT try and heat it any other way, as it is flammable.
126750
No primer required on solid wood. If wood is softer you probably need to apply a hardner prior to filling.
628087
Depends on the size of the piece. If working in the garage where ventilation is good then I would start rubbing it off when I completed the piece. Such as as dresser from top to bottom. Small stuff like Woden bodes or musing bowls I wipe down as soon as finished rubbing in the wax. Hope that helps you
498226
Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color might be enough but wont give you the incredible sheen of Briwax. Hope this helps. Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color... » Read More Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color might be enough but wont give you the incredible sheen of Briwax. Hope this helps. « Show Less
2266259
I would use a paste wood polish and apply it by hand with a pad or soft rag. Use the buffer to shine when the polish has set a few minutes. Don't overdo it by exerting a lot of pressure on the table top.
1524832
Yes, I love this stuff and have applied it to several table tops. I usually pour it right on the table surface and hand rub it with an old t shirt. Coats go on quick and thin but they also dry quick. After 20 minutes or so it is ready for another coat. Also, if the wood you tested on was not smooth or maybe not stained yet (bare wood) it may absorb faster or soak into the pores more than on a stained piece. This finish is nice for when you have the color you want and don't want it to change after you apply the finish coat. Polyurethane is bad about changing the color after application. This will leave a nice sheen finish with minimal color change. Like I said each coat is thin, but I honesty prefer this method compared to thick coats. After two coats hand sand the surface very lightly with a high grit (320 -400) to smooth it out. After this the next few coats go on very nicely.
1091017
We simply used a wood cleaner on our hardwood floor then applied the Lundmark wax. We too love this wax and recommend it. So easy to use.
527306
It will not make it look new, so I would clean the wood first. After it is good and dry, use the beeswax generously and after applying a coat, wait a few minutes then buff with a clean, dry, rag that is white. It has a wonderful muted shine when used on wood furniture. To clean the crib, I might use diluted vinegar with dish detergent instead of Murphy's wood Soap. It has never done a good job for me on old wood. Anyway, that's my two cents. I just love the Van's Beeswax.
87135
I've used it many times over varnished wood, and had very good results. Most people, these days, seem to skip the middle steps of sanding and wiping down, and are pleased enough with the results. I prefer to do it old school and reap the benefits. Even 1-2-3 will adhere better if you break the gloss, first. Your end results are only as good as your preparation. If the chair is old, it may be shellac and not actually varnish. Zinsser also makes a shellac-based product called B-I-N. Both work really well.
749928
Sounds like you need Howard's Restor-A-Finish not Craftsman Lemon oil...Howard's is a great product and you can get a finish to match your wood. Look online and you'll get info about this product. Lemon oil is just a polish - I don't know what results you will get with it on unfinished wood. I restore antiques but am not a professional.