Does the bolt slide all the way through the nut while mounting the base plate? The ones that I received have a ring at their last thread
459347
I purchased these mounts recently and also seem to be experiencing the same issue. This type of nut is apparently called a nyloc. I can't seem to tighten the nut all the way, and therefore cannot really stabilize the mounts. Were you able to figure it out yet?
459348
Mine was bit close but no problem. Wonder if there is a unique issue with yours!
459349
I also have the same issue. Are you able to fix the issue? If its fixed did you use a different nut?
459350
I have this issue as well. There's maybe a quarter inch of space between the nut and the bottom of the arm. It's as if the bolt is too long. Not really sure what to do other than stick a bunch of washers in there.
459351
The nut is called a nyloc nut designed to keep the nut from loosening up from vibrations. You need to fasten the nut down with a wrench, the bolt will go through the whole nut.
1521317
Yes it will unscrew from the base... Once you have the post out of the base you can than take the base out of the nut section... If you have the mount already on something you might want to hold the base when you try and pull the post out... That way you don't pull everything off and end up having to replace the glue tape or worse the mount it self or repairing what ever you have the thing mounted too...
1701028
No drilling the bolts line up easily. But I recommend new bolts 1/2 longer. I makes the hitch holes easier to line up. Also some one recommended PB Blaster, it dissolves the rust on the old bolts. I did it two hours before and just before I removed them. It really makes a big difference. A 18" breaker bar works good for removal and a regular torque wrench to install them.
187159
I don't know what you mean by "bolt up". Either though there were some differences in inlet, outlet position, mine went right on. I think as long as the bolt eyelets line up you should have no problems, maybe just a little line re positioning.
1603950
The bolts just press against the surface. That's one nice thing about this product is it can be moved and doesn't leave any permanent damage where you installed it. It was a little tricky to install because the directions are not real clear. Make sure u tighten each screw a little at a time and just keep going around. It will help keep it even. Works great once installed!
1580047
Yes, it comes with 3 screws and nuts. I carefully positioned mine on the rifle's receiver, superglued it in place, then drilled and tapped the screw locations. Although I tapped the receiver, I also installed the nuts to act as lock nuts. There was enough clearance within the receiver that the nuts would install without interfering with the bolt operation. I used Locktite to insure the screws and nuts stayed tight. Works just fine.
1175627
It is like a pipe thread .... as it gets tighter it seals ... so it should not screw all the way down.
1875494
It bolt to the same mounts as the factory bumper. If you have an aftermarket bumper you will likely have to do some cutting
494710
the bolts are 1/4 size, this is a propriety size slot. The sliding nut is 1/8 thick and 1/2 wide.
1984765
The stock that I ordered came with a mounting bolt and fit just fine. I haven't had any problems with it at all.
831843
The screws which connect metal base to crib frame is supposed to fit tightly. I have tried to adjust the metal base at different levels and it fitted tightly at all levels. Are you talking about other cylindrical shape long nuts? They do seem not to be very tight when inserted in wooden holes, but when tightened with screws, they are quite snugly fit too.
759692
The one I bought had the screw type mounting rings that slide down the groves on the top of the action. Like the type for a 22, but made for bigger groves. Hope that helps
2137560
I had no issues with mine, it slid rite in a factory installed hitch on a 2010 dodge ram 2500
1251173
It depends on the hole size on the handguards. The bolts have quite a bit of adjustment for width between holes. However I found the washers/nuts to be too small for my palmetto armory handguard. The rail would just fall off. I went to Lowes and bought bigger ones. I'm still happy with the part.
1580043
Ameer, mine did. They were probably 4 mm but a 5/32"-36 threads to the inch tap worked perfectly. I taped my receiver and bolted it on. I did place the included nuts on the inside of the receiver to lock them in place. Also, I put a drop of Lock-tite on each bolt and nut. I used a #29 bit to dill the holes for tapping the receiver. I think they were Allen head bolts and the wrench came with it. I think you could simply bolt it on if you don't have the tap. Take care in placement and alignment with the top edge of the receiver. I tapped my receiver because I had the tools. On a standard AK the placement of the rail is obvious it has a recess to cover one rivet and has a cut-out for another. Hope this helps.
489283
Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you may want to consider not having the post slide all the way down to the bottom (but I would not recommend this). Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you... » Read More Yes, much like the 2 side flanges (with the bolt/screw holes) that flare out, there are 2 flanges that flare inwards towards the inside hollow part of the base. These are the same thickness as the rest of the material on the base (about 1/8" to 3/16") and they keep the post from direct contact with the surface that the base is mounted on.Note that the base is tapered very slightly for a snug fit for the post and has screw holes on the vertical sides for screws to secure the post to the base itself. If you're really concerned about any post contact with the surface, you may want to consider not having the post slide all the way down to the bottom (but I would not recommend this). « Show Less
746764
I don't think so. I can't check right now. But, I didn't notice any movement in the one I got. If you look on the bottom, you might see a locking nut or something for that post. It might just be lose.