Are these relays triggerd by an opto-coupler? Those 4-pin devices on the board appear to be opto couplers.
447148
yes they are, the actual printing on the chips are B1401 817CG but I can't seem to come up with a valid google search on the part number, this is no real schematic with it, but the hookup is pretty simple
1661315
Negative, yet there is an input receptacle with NO SPECS as to polarity and voltage needed, as well a missing current spec needed when multiple items are connected. Closer inspection of item shows no specs ON the item either, but it appears that an area below the receptacle has been sanded off, as if the specs were removed, as was the model info. Weird.. Inspection was done with lighted magnifier I used at NASA to inspect pins. sort of like owning a 7-stall barn that will only hold 4 horses at best ;-)
2181857
If you are replacing a passive splitter, this should help. Only trying it will tell for sure.
1063935
Make sure the contacts line up. It could be a polarity problem. They only work with the power going in one direction so the lines would have to be reversed.
862227
I am using these relays to control multiple 12 volt switches (zone valves), so I assume, IMO, the answers are yes, yes, yes.
1336844
on this one, pins 1&2 connected all relays toggle, 3&4 connected all relays are momentary, no pins connected all relays latch , and 1&2+3&4 connected relays a&b; toggle and b&c; are momentary. on another 4 channel remote i have the configuration is different. AFTER PIN CHANGE, YOU HAVE TO TURN THE UNIT OFF AND THEN BACK ON FOR THE CHANGES TO TAKE EFFECT
894230
I have not found anything. Just assume it's a 5V input, and output is inverted (High input = relay OFF)
1600310
"The relay contacts do not supply power. You use them as a switch for the power you wish routed through them" Same answer, no attitude. Cheers!
792506
Bad connection??I haven't had this happen. Been using the gauges about 2 years now.If voltage is right around the cutoff of 4.5V I suppose it could blink on/off as the voltage hovers around that point. Gauge puts a tiny load on system so volts would drop, then without the load V would increase again over 4.5V so it would light up again, and the cycle would repeat.
1721382
I haven't installed the repeaters yet but as with any repeater these should only "boost" the signal they are receiving. The controller should remain the source of what is going on with the lights.
1908543
I don't know. I haven't programmed that part with this programmer, so I can't comment. I'm not a software person. If it's not in the list of parts in the programmer data sheet, I would check the PIC16F1847 data sheet against comparable 18-pin part data sheets that are in the programmer's list.
195403
It's a 4-pin connector. However, I can't tell you what kind of board it fits because I cut the connector off and used it as a heat sink for two 20 watt LED arrays. But I can tell you they are incredibly quiet, and after being on 15 hours a day for 6 months they are still as quiet as when I bought them and can handle the heat dissipation from 40 watts of LEDs with ease, so I'm thinking a normal CPU would be no problem. And that's with no speed controller...I'm guessing they're running at "idle."
1585459
You could wire up switches to control each relay. You would supply 5 volts to the corresponding pin for a given relay you want to activate via individual switches. But the best use for this board is to let an Arduino or similar micro controller operate it. That is its intended usage.
1854699
Sounds like they are mismarked. The polarity cannot change through the connector. The two + now become 1 +. The two - now become one -. Once you have the 2 panels connected in parallel, use a voltmeter to check the polarities to prove it to yourself.
431357
I have two of these and I'm still not sure of the answer. It appears to be a controller and two separate switches. The switches are not automatically mapped to the electrical outputs. I have fooled with these for a long time and could never get them to work in manner I could understand.I'm guessing that these work very nicely with a Leviton controller, but otherwise they are, frankly, an expensive nightmare.
539256
They are connected the same way, unless the circuit your current light bar is on can't handle the addt'l 2A per light added, in which case you would need a relay and separate circuit, with the relay energized by the existing light bar circuit assuming you want them energized simultaneously.
957439
Mine behaves same as yours, COAX light blinks more based on amount of network traffic running through the adapter.