I like the idea of the composite board but I'm on a budget. Would it be better to buy treated 2x4's or just regular 2x4's and paint/seal them somehow?
459459
I think part of that depends on where you live - where the table will reside and then the look you are wanting. Also once painted/sealed you will have to be that on an ongoing basis - where with the pressure treated you can leave them exposed and they should hold up for several years under regular conditions (I think.)
459460
I was concerned about the chemicals used in treated lumber. There is a paint that Home Depot sells called Porch and Floor paint. It works well on wood that you plan to leave outside. I used that on regular 2x4's and it is working well for me.
459461
A lot of composites are more flexible than regular 2x4s and might sag. Unless you are making it very short, I'd think about pressure treated 2x4s instead. You can paint them if you want, but they look nice with just pressure treated 2x4s.
820688
That does seem a bit high for the list and selling price. The 24x18x2.25 is only $76.57 right now, which is cheaper than the 20x15. Go for that.
924201
Yes, although a smooth surface is necessary for best results. I would recommend a white board.
966992
I used 5/4 treated deck boards, bolts were just long enough, but worked great! They would be too short for 2x4's.
655997
the wood and the epoxy in time will expand and contract at a different rate. there's cheaper stuff that's designed specifically for that purpose. the filler you want is whats used to repair and maintain Victorian homes in San Francisco
713318
Krylon makes several fixatives, one may meet your needs. I just use the matte permanent for my projects. Papilio makes a nice waterproof over-laminate if you want something thicker. Two days seems like a long time to not dry.
976434
I used treated lumber primarily because it was cheaper than composite. Composite lumber would probably work; not decking squares. You need to look carefully at the dimensions. When I have used composite in the past it was not exactly the same size as the equivalent wood lumber.
966988
I used them on 1x6 boards and they worked well. A 2x4 would be too thick unless you countersink the back side of the hole.
2006439
Daniel, yup. Eventually even the self sealing boards get too chewed up and they have to be replaced. You are paying for the whole set here and then the replacement boards are much less. The bracket inside the cabinet came already installed which was really nice. There is just a large screw in the back of the board and it slides right into the bracket.
2280951
I would suggest lightly sanding the black with 150- 220 grit paper so new paint will grip well. If you can prime with something other than Latex, be better off on metal, perhaps rustoleum. I f you can get the paint in oil , would be best, but unlikely. Use gloss at any rate as harder finish I believe. The last option...Move ! Kidding Mark
1887729
I would not say that the product makes the bricks look better/newer, but it appears to do what is intended to do and that is to seal them from weather conditions. Perhaps a glossier finish product would accomplish what you want, but be careful since that could result in a slipping accident.
824279
The panel has a slightly textured surface that I think will hold paint well. Acryic paint might would best since the material is plastic, but I'm planning to use latex.
178475
I don't recommend that. Because the model is very beautiful and detailed, and you need to get the feel about how to organize the pieces, what to paint first, how to handle the crystal clear parts, when to paint and glue, and how to get the finishing an final assembly of the whole set. You can try first with a smaller model, with detailed painting, decals and clear parts, so you can acquire those skills and then go for the B52. Takes a lot of patience and well on my first model I glued the pieces before paint them and it was a huge mistake, just an example on my own experience. Good luck friend! I don't recommend that. Because the model is very beautiful and detailed, and you need to get the feel about how to organize the pieces, what to paint first, how to handle the crystal clear parts, when to paint and glue, and how to get the finishing an final assembly of the whole set. You can try first with a smaller model, with detailed painting, decals and clear parts, so you can acquire those skills and then go for the B52. Takes a lot of patience and well on my first model I glued the pieces before paint them and it was a huge mistake, just an example on my own experience. Good luck... » Read More I don't recommend that. Because the model is very beautiful and detailed, and you need to get the feel about how to organize the pieces, what to paint first, how to handle the crystal clear parts, when to paint and glue, and how to get the finishing an final assembly of the whole set. You can try first with a smaller model, with detailed painting, decals and clear parts, so you can acquire those skills and then go for the B52. Takes a lot of patience and well on my first model I glued the pieces before paint them and it was a huge mistake, just an example on my own experience. Good luck friend! « Show Less
139184
I would seal it first with a water-based primer or bonder. XIM has one in white that would be perfect.
1078736
I would use latex. The epoxy will stick better and the finished product will be just as glossy.
1484292
I first started with a bearings upgrade, which totally changed the feel of the board, then I threw on a set of Gullwing Sidewinder II Trucks, I don't recommend those trucks in particular due to having two kingpins, and the board has a big disadvantage with wheelbite with these trucks, and a bit of speed wobbles. I suggest a set of Paris' or something of the like.First, I'd start with bearings, and just work from there:)
325038
I went to a craft store and made a custom cushion display. All it takes is a yard of fabric, some adhesive spray glue, a desirable size of foam board and some time. It's all worth it when one does it ones self.