We cut 8 mm veneer plywood &amp; need this cutting quick as possible. Sometimes we cut 19 mm plywood and this can be slower. Can you recommend a machine?
458082
You can use this machine but I would recommend to use one with 130 watts for faster results, please call me at 407-468-6614 for more information, my name is Milena. Thank you
1546367
Get the cutterpillar. The way it's designed it sharpens as it cuts so it never needs replacing. It's VERY pricey and something you'd need a designated cutting station for since it's also very heavy. People who own it swear by it, but I prefer something that I can stow away as I don't want to lose counter space to a trimmer.
385790
Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today, I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the router you can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth. If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'll find it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power to use the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shims to cut the dimension you desire Martin
968605
Nigel, Seeing that you are cutting flooring material, I can assume that just about 100% of your cuts are (cross cutting). Typically, for cross cutting the more teeth the blade has the smoother and less edge tearing there is. That being said, blades for (ripping) length wise, with less than 40 teeth will usually rip faster than a blade with more teeth. However, There is always the personal preferences that we all have--One thing is certain, a good sharp blade and not (rushing) the cut for either cross cutting or ripping will give you the best cut you are going to get. Of course the cut can be influenced by the running (condition) of your saw's spindle--smoothness & tightness. Now, back to your question---The 50T, 60T or even an 80T for cross cutting is what the industry would probably reccommend. AND again, if you already have a 40T that is nice and sharp do a few test cuts to see if it meets your demands--it is less expensive and (for instance) an 80T typically would not be a first choice for ripping. I hope this helps
977087
If you work with wood only then it's ok. But if you need to cut something with nails in it...then don't count on it. It simply can't cut it. I was cutting heating holes inside the frames house so they didn't work for me, plus they are too short for my needs. Now I'm using demolition blades only. Milwaukee is the best.
1002366
This is a 60 tooth blade that should cut most materials like plexiglass , teflon, etc, however for some harder plastics and acrylic sheets, I clamp two pieces of plywood over the cut line to help prevent breaking and splintering. Further, this blade is typically used on a portable saw such as Skil saw. If I were cutting plastic of any kind, I would want to do so on a table saw where one can better maintain a straight cut line. Plastics often crack and even shatter if the blade is not kept on a very straight line.
1513574
For safety's sake, I would recommend cutting the 4x8 sheet of plywood in half first. Certainly the work table is strong enough to hold a sheet of plywood, but cutting it with a saw would not be safe.
1983649
My thoughts is, the teeth on the saw will grab the plastic like material and shatter or split the plastic. I've cut plasiglass with a controlled sabre saw and if you're not carful, you can split or crack the material. Maybe go as slow as possible cutting it ...if can test..do that first.
358710
cutter is not recommended for HPL or solid wood. Works well on regular laminate and some engineered wood.
415567
I have used it on oak and maple flooring a lot, that's why I bought it. It works great, albeit much slower than a circular saw. I typically use it to end cut individual boards to weave new sections in to old sections. End cut the board and then split it with a chisel and remove it. Also used it to cut in new flush thresholds, a similar cut to your cabinet cut. Like any saw, it works best with new blades. Hit a flooring nail, which are typically hardened nails, and you will trash the blade right away. Cost of doing business.
762102
I cut 3 ft sections of cedar trees in half length lenght wise. I use this planer to then even out the interior surface of the log to make benches. Tried using a hand powered rasp. Then quickly bought the Makita. I prefer Makita brand to all others.. Blades make quick work of a14 inch wide bench top, leaving a smooth surface thst requires only finish sanding after a finish has been applied.
1384966
Inch boards are about as far as I want go with this. Nice little saw, it would probably cut more thickness but would be slow. I use a band saw for thick stuff.
345551
The cutter is a true 5/8 [or at least mine is]. In softwood, I have no abnormal results. In hardwood, when I have to pry the dowel out of the cutter [due to friction of the cutting action] you may have to gouge some of the wood. We have high humidity in my area. Your efforts may be different. All of this assumes that there have been no changes in the quality control since I bought it, of course.
2013315
I have successfully cut both 1/4" and 1/8" thick acrylic with this cutter. Your drill press should be set to it's lowest speed, and the cutter advanced into the work as slowly as possible. If you have the material available, sandwich the acrylic between a piece if 1/4" plywood, mdf or similar materiel on top with a thicker backer board of the same or similar material on the bottom. Clamp the sandwich assembly to the drill press table. The sandwich will help flatten the acrylic if it is warped, and lessen the possibility edge fracture from the cutter. Progressively finer grits of sandpaper may be used to dress up the edges of the cut. I have successfully cut both 1/4" and 1/8" thick acrylic with this cutter. Your drill press should be set to it's lowest speed, and the cutter advanced into the work as slowly as possible. If you have the material available, sandwich the acrylic between a piece if 1/4" plywood, mdf or similar materiel on top with a thicker backer board of the same or similar material on the bottom. Clamp the sandwich assembly to the drill press table. The sandwich will help flatten the acrylic if it is warped, and lessen the possibility edge fracture from the cutter. Progressively finer grits... » Read More I have successfully cut both 1/4" and 1/8" thick acrylic with this cutter. Your drill press should be set to it's lowest speed, and the cutter advanced into the work as slowly as possible. If you have the material available, sandwich the acrylic between a piece if 1/4" plywood, mdf or similar materiel on top with a thicker backer board of the same or similar material on the bottom. Clamp the sandwich assembly to the drill press table. The sandwich will help flatten the acrylic if it is warped, and lessen the possibility edge fracture from the cutter. Progressively finer grits of sandpaper may be used to dress up the edges of the cut. « Show Less
1794307
I have done test rip cuts in 4/4 maple and it works well, not sure if this is beyond the design. Mostly using the saw for various cross cuts (trimming plugs, end pieces) on maple and walnut. Even tried it out on bubinga and it cuts well if you go slowly. Love the canvas cover.
1567440
to be honest i dont think it's cut much of anything i tried to just simply cut alittle in to a 1/4in plywood and the thing frieded on me. if it cant cut something that simple i dont think there is much anything else it can cut well other then pvc maybe
18821
Sir! I used this little machine in solid pine and 1/4" plywood where the cut quality did not matter. Seems to be cutting ok., but you might need to change the blade to get better cut, such as more tooth on the blade.