Confused...Do I have to take off the plastic that is tightly wrapped around on the actual speaker wire...
475311
Well you have to take off a half inch to an inch to insert it into the connection
475312
No the clear rubber stays on the wire You just need to cut off about one inch on the end to connect to your Banana plugs or directly to your stereo connectionThis can be fine carefully with scissors or wire cutters if you have them
475313
You will have to strip about a 1/2 inch of the insulation to make your contacts. http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Wiring/That's a decent article that covers most everything from car audio to home audio.
475314
Are you referring to the insulation coating? If so, then no. However, you might have to strip the ends to make contact with the device you're plugging in to.
475315
You will have to strip about a 1/2 inch of the insulation to make your contacts. http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Wiring/ That's a decent article that covers most everything from car audio to home audio.
642726
Use the edge of a knife, what I did was cut in to the plastic maybe about 0.25", then twisted the knife to pop the plastic out. This exposes the banana plug inputs- worked fine on 4/5 of my speakers, I scratched the brass terminal a little bit on the 5th one though, so don't be too overzealous.
1548006
You can try to pry it off. The speakers come together around the seal (the black line going through the middle of the speaker vertically), so you can take the front face off (4 screws), and remove the stand. The grill is on pretty tight so you have to be careful removing that as well (no screws).
2083140
Wires are attached to the speakers. You do not need any wire unless you need the speakers to be further away from the receiver (or run through a wall), in that case you will have to get some wire and do some cutting and splicing.
701268
Maybe I can help. If it was just the black or red plastic nut that screws down on your speaker wire, You should just be able to carefully play with the nut and reattach it. If the metal part that goes into the speaker case is loose, than you will somehow have to open the case and re-tighten the the nut on the inside of the speaker case. After further looking, there are 4 allen head hex screws that should let you get to the inside nut that holds the speaker wire post. I haven't done this. But I would not be to afraid to try it. Just do one screw and if it comes out with no problem, than continue on. Or... get a warranty replacement. Good luck Diana!
291932
you have to cut the wire and splice in as much as you need. you have to buy more speaker wire.
1658588
Hi Jason, I suggest to have it remove by a professional installation guy for car audio system. If you are not familiar on the unit, removing it on your own may cause damage for both the device and on your vehicle. -Ely
2102647
Not really. The device is not "user friendly" and difficult to open without the possibility of cracking/breaking the plastic shell or damaging internal components. To answer your question, I very carefully opened mine with two flat tip jewelers screwdrivers. I think I cracked a small piece of plastic near the volume button, but that's OK. It's not my primary device. Once I had the back partially open, I could see that the battery is essentially hardwired into the unit, including what appears to be glue or special tape holding it in place. I also noticed a couple thin wires connecting from the inside of the unit to the speaker that sits in the back plate. Should you decide to open it, be aware that the wires might get pulled off the internal circuit board. Bottom line, I wouldn't recommend "messing" (technical term) with the internal "guts" (another technical term) of the device unless absolutely necessary.
1425861
Yes, that's all you need to do. On most speakers, these wires are already marked and the two wires come off of the cross-over electronics board. On not too sophisticated speakers you just connect them in line, meaning you piggy-back off of the regular woofer speaker wires red and black. Most tweeters like these won't be damaged if connected that way as they have a good variance resistance, and they have a capacitor attached to one of the poles for protection. I use a couple of tweeters by themselves and work just fine. These I bought to replace some damaged ones in some speakers I bought used from a friend.
1607324
I believe covers are screwed on from back side you would first remove screws holding speaker on then flip over to find screws for grill . problem is wires for tweeter are run thru cover and tweeter is mounted on cover so that would have to be cut and re connected .
713394
Wires simply pushed in to pressure clips fastened to back of speakers. You only need to strip about one-half an inch of the red/black normal speaker wires.
2131297
Yes. Adjust to size of wire and pull through. Plastic will pull right off as it comes out. I used my right hand to pull wire and insulation in my left.
416286
There is a top and bottom to the speaker (without the cover), but the little cover that goes OVER the speaker should have the full-cover side, covering the speaker side. The half-open side is good for allowing the speaker wire to move freely.
57780
If I remember correctly, the speaker is a separate component. You will have to change that out separately. I hope this helps
487681
LOL. Wow. Yes I remember the sockets being a little difficult to remove from the plastic holders, but I guess I'm not the kind of guy that likes to let a piece of plastic get the best of me, hehe.I think I used a pair of pliers to hold the plastic while I pulled em off with the other hand. I definitely didn't try putting them back on and threw the plastic thing away, lol.
1428117
All you need is a Phillips screwdriver #2. Set the UNPLUGGED unit on its' face, handle towards you. Remove the four black screws on that secure the black amplifier assembly into the wooden frame (inside, along the sides). Now loosen the four chrome plated screws that are not part of the corner guards or handle. They have raised little aluminum collars beneath them. Now you will be able to gently work the amplifier assembly out, being sure not to yank on the speaker wires. Access to the tube is from the side, beneath the Input jack, and a spring holds it in place. Most bad tubes won't glow; the filament is fragile, and wears out over time. Good luck! All you need is a Phillips screwdriver #2. Set the UNPLUGGED unit on its' face, handle towards you. Remove the four black screws on that secure the black amplifier assembly into the wooden frame (inside, along the sides). Now loosen the four chrome plated screws that are not part of the corner guards or handle. They have raised little aluminum collars beneath them. Now you will be able to gently work the amplifier assembly out, being sure not to yank on the speaker wires. Access to the tube is from the side, beneath the Input jack, and a spring holds it in place. Most bad tubes won't glow;... » Read More All you need is a Phillips screwdriver #2. Set the UNPLUGGED unit on its' face, handle towards you. Remove the four black screws on that secure the black amplifier assembly into the wooden frame (inside, along the sides). Now loosen the four chrome plated screws that are not part of the corner guards or handle. They have raised little aluminum collars beneath them. Now you will be able to gently work the amplifier assembly out, being sure not to yank on the speaker wires. Access to the tube is from the side, beneath the Input jack, and a spring holds it in place. Most bad tubes won't glow; the filament is fragile, and wears out over time. Good luck! « Show Less
2249559
Nope bare speaker wire works too. Thats how mine is rigged up. Sounds great on a pair of decent bookshelf speakers.