Does this fridge have a CSA or CUL electrical rating?
470034
I don't know the answer to this - I guess you're asking about Canadian electrical standards. I don't have either fridges nearby; both were given as gifts. I'm certain they meet USA / American standards. The fridge has a normal, 3 prong 110v grounded plug, and, to date (about 5 months), both have been working just fine; no problems at all. They keep the food cold, etc., and it's perfect for an under-desk fridge at work, or a dorm room, etc.
389381
It's a 15 amp circuit. So if your refrigerator is on a 15 amp circuit it should work. My only worry would be the age of the refrigerator and how much of a power draw the compressor takes on start up. Probably not a problem with the newer appliances.
909003
It will run a full size fridge although its not a sine wave inverter and some say the motor in the fridge may not run properly... The fan is like a computer fan you can here it but its not annoying and my inverter is located in the basement so we never hear it....
262768
In the product brochure it says, "This appliance, when installed, must be electrically grounded in accordance with local codes or, in the absence of local codes, with the current CSA C22.1 Canadian Electrical Code or for U.S.A. installations follow local codes and the National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA NO.70." I hope this means something to the person asking the question, because it doesn't mean much to me. However, I know the outlet our Duraflame Portable Heater is plugged into, is grounded.
1498274
I'm using it for a 720 watt fridge. I think the startup on a fridge compressor would be greater than that for a garage door opener, but have nothing scientific to back that up.
1011841
It's about 80 watts @ 12 volts. It comes with a 6 foot cord. There is also a 10 foot cord available via a third party. Don't use a cheap cord from the dollar store. Per the instructions the fridge will shut down when the supply voltage drops below a certain point. I have been able to let it run overnight most of the time (1+ year old 12V battery) but it did drain the battery enough one time so that the van wouldn't start. An auxiliary AGM 12V battery would be nice to have for an extended trip. BT4W mine has been in continuous use @ 120V and works well in either mode. Recommended. (There is also a split mode unit available where one side is above 32F and the other side below 32F. check it out) It's about 80 watts @ 12 volts. It comes with a 6 foot cord. There is also a 10 foot cord available via a third party. Don't use a cheap cord from the dollar store. Per the instructions the fridge will shut down when the supply voltage drops below a certain point. I have been able to let it run overnight most of the time (1+ year old 12V battery) but it did drain the battery enough one time so that the van wouldn't start. An auxiliary AGM 12V battery would be nice to have for an extended trip. BT4W mine has been in continuous use @ 120V and works well in either mode. Recommended. (There is... » Read More It's about 80 watts @ 12 volts. It comes with a 6 foot cord. There is also a 10 foot cord available via a third party. Don't use a cheap cord from the dollar store. Per the instructions the fridge will shut down when the supply voltage drops below a certain point. I have been able to let it run overnight most of the time (1+ year old 12V battery) but it did drain the battery enough one time so that the van wouldn't start. An auxiliary AGM 12V battery would be nice to have for an extended trip. BT4W mine has been in continuous use @ 120V and works well in either mode. Recommended. (There is also a split mode unit available where one side is above 32F and the other side below 32F. check it out) « Show Less
419245
I haven't had an issue with my unit chilling. In fact I've had to turn it down. My little refrigerator stays in my garage so it's subject to hot weather in Texas.
1324562
Mine has CSA mark which is equivalent. But mine is the older style model 2 years old now. The new one being sold here looks slightly different.
1665691
My MS2012 runs the standard size microwave just fine. It also runs everything elso on my coach that is on the 115V breakers in the subpanel I wired it to. That includes most all receptacles in the coach including the fridge. I would not recommend running the fridge on 115V through the inverter as it drains your batteries. Leave the fridge on gas. You need to know how your coach is wired and what is on each breaker that you hook into the subpanel that the inverter will feed.
2009459
no, but maybe a better question for the manufacturer. Fridge is good for small kitchens. I have had mine for about 9 months and it has worked well.
2201890
I don't have the answer for you, since the fridge was a gift. Maybe you can find a number online to contact the company and ask. Best regards.
448318
As much as I know, modern large refrigerators don't ever draw more than a few amps, perhaps as many as 6 amps for a second or two when the compressor first kicks in. I believe the 15 amps the question refers to is minimum circuit size which includes the circuit breaker and all the wiring from the circuit box to and including the outlet box the refrigerator plugs into. Running small motors like compressors with less than a 15 amp circuit can at start-up cause a voltage drop that can lead to damage to the motor. Something is horribly wrong if your refrigerator ever draws more than 10 amps, no matter how old or inefficient it is. As much as I know, modern large refrigerators don't ever draw more than a few amps, perhaps as many as 6 amps for a second or two when the compressor first kicks in. I believe the 15 amps the question refers to is minimum circuit size which includes the circuit breaker and all the wiring from the circuit box to and including the outlet box the refrigerator plugs into. Running small motors like compressors with less than a 15 amp circuit can at start-up cause a voltage drop that can lead to damage to the motor. Something is horribly wrong if your refrigerator ever draws more than 10 amps, no... » Read More As much as I know, modern large refrigerators don't ever draw more than a few amps, perhaps as many as 6 amps for a second or two when the compressor first kicks in. I believe the 15 amps the question refers to is minimum circuit size which includes the circuit breaker and all the wiring from the circuit box to and including the outlet box the refrigerator plugs into. Running small motors like compressors with less than a 15 amp circuit can at start-up cause a voltage drop that can lead to damage to the motor. Something is horribly wrong if your refrigerator ever draws more than 10 amps, no matter how old or inefficient it is. « Show Less
1376437
Look at http://www.sunpentown.com/rf32cudodore1.html: it says 95W, 1.1 Amp. I had it plugged in to a 15 amp circuit, shared with a TV and several lights, with no problem. By the way, I have had this fridge for many years and it still works fine.
1150519
Don't know, I used one as a substitute for an older 20+ Kenmore freezer. Has been working fine for 6 mo. +
1444555
I did not see any IL or CSA markings. The device appears to be well engineered and well built. I have installed 7 of these in a new closet and all function very well.
2089855
Very good question. I myself have used other UPS's for refrigerators during power outages. While I can't say how well this specific model will work, I can say I have used other brands that have worked just fine.
2175079
YES, avg power should be near 1322/5 = 264 watts That would make it NEW REFRIGERATOR, made after 1984 or so. Sealed electric compressor type. .. Harold P Boushell