vltages at zone valve is 25 volts. still i dont get heat. please let me know what is wrong?
524482
There's a plastic lever on the left side of where the wires hook up. Make sure the valve itself is seated properly., and slowly pull the lever down. You should hear the water rushing through the system and your heat will work until u figure if your thermostat is bad of the wiring is not right. Good luck
524483
If you have full voltage at the valve and the wireing is correct then the only other problems are either a plugged water line, or a bad valve power head. Pull the little black lever all the way down to manually open the valve and if you get heat then replace the power head. This is very common to have them wear out after a few years.
524484
You failed to mention if the zone valve is new or old. It could be burned out. If so you would get a smell of burning wire insulation. To get heat in an emergency all you have to do is slide the lever up all the way and that will open the valve to let the hot water through. Just remember to not leave it in that position for prolonged periods.
524485
It is hard to say without knowing all the variables. Check your other working valves and make sure all connections are the same. Make sure the valve is seated properly... it can be easily misaligned when twisted on. Make sure your thermostat is set to operate that zone. Make sure that the manual valve controlling the flow from furnace in that zone is in the open position. And make sure your valve is set to automatic for thermostat control. I had work done in the hose, and for a year the heat in one of my 3 zones was funky. The valve in question was hard to see. When I finally checked it carefully, one wire was loose and the valve itself was not flush with the base. The zone was on all the time. I assume the other zones work, therefore the circulating pump is working. I am an amateur tinkerer. Most household things aren't rocket science, but if I can't figure it out, I call an expert.
524486
For a complete description of how the part works, check here: http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-3.pdf
97205
Check with Schluter. Send the specs in the meter. I found the low cost vb60 meets DitraHeat requirements.
1917074
You need a separate thermostat that can wire and mount to the unit or run it off a line voltage wall thermostat.. This model runs on 240volt supply. Check the website King-electric.com for useful info then you can order from Amazon. All types of these must be hard wired to supply voltage. Gives great heat, really well made.
1935325
It may just be too cold so the valve shrunk. Keep it warm and if it still doesn't work try contacting customer service and see if they can help you
2237062
Verify that the connections are good. A loose hot or a loose neutral will cause voltage to fluctuate. Check your 230/240 volt plug, making sure that each leg is 115/120 to ground and to neutral, and 230/240 volt line to line. If all else fails, it could be a faulty voltage regulator.
1513293
Probably a defective unit. Not holding heat--or not getting hot enough. Ask for a replacement. A reputable company will gladly exchange if within the warranty period
942977
I had the same problem. The insulation on the wiring did not keep it cool causing it to melt then the wiring melted together. I cut out the connector and hard wired the positive to positive and negative to negative seperately and insulated them very heavily. I am now keeping "ALL" the wiring away from eachother to make sure that never happens again. I hand-made a bracket to keep the controler away from the battery to eliminate some of the heat problem and it seems to be working. Good luck.
1590572
I've got 4 panels of up to 7 amps each pumping at over 30 volts its doing ok, doesnt get warm.
926769
One think I failed to mention, the PTAC is 220 volt. It is on a 30 amp breaker. That has a potential to be 6.6 KVA by itself. This is worst case, but I suspect it pulls at least half that. You might want to do the math on your heat pump, but I suspect it is too much.
534153
Check your dip switch settings are correct, see table 3, pg 5, you might have the heat on dip set (depends on model you are replacing) https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/Techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2252EF.pdf
160082
Mine doesn't change voltage BUT you can make the heat consistency higher by dialing or spinning the number spool on the handle by the hot iron. Hope that helps
1777769
110 v 1300 w - it does not work well - bought two one was working the other did not work - heat emitted is very limited - would not recommend
2080263
With the air temperature at about 11°F the water near the heater was at 42°F. I use an instrument called Kill-A-Watt to check the voltage at the outlet and the power drawn by an appliance. It seems your heater is not working or there is no power supplied to it.
356374
Probably not the valve. I had the same issue and the problem was the outlet tube was clogged with carbon. I would check that first.
604135
You should be able to tell exactly what is going on with your voltmeter, either measuring voltage or resistance. Evidently you tried that, so it is not obvious what is wrong. I assume that you have applied a voltage properly to the unit. I doubt that the unit is at fault.
1573119
use amp probe, see how much current is being used, and check valve to see if any debris is inside
1956307
First check the electrical outlet with a light or a tester and see if you have power there . Did you have some water in the bowl ? There is thermostatic stop if there is no water so the plastic does not melt . It's only a 60 watt element to keep the water warm . If you have a problem let me know .