Is this model suitable for retrofits? I don't have attic access as it will be installed on the first story.
518365
I replaced a fan/light of different type without needing my attic access. Check the dimensions of the Broan and the dimensions of your old fan. Also compare the size of your existing exhaust pipe with the Broan.
518366
I had another fan installed without attic access. However, I have recently learned that the original unit was not ducted correctly, to the outside as i was told, but it exhausts to the attic soffit area, which I'm told will cause frost this winter, and probably mildew and mold, not at all what is wished! So, in that case, yes, attic access will be necessary, but if you already have a fan in the ceiling, and you have a qualified handyman who can do the job, I could be wrong, but it seems that attic access might not be needed, if you are wishing only to switch out your old unit, and to put this one in. I had another fan installed without attic access. However, I have recently learned that the original unit was not ducted correctly, to the outside as i was told, but it exhausts to the attic soffit area, which I'm told will cause frost this winter, and probably mildew and mold, not at all what is wished! So, in that case, yes, attic access will be necessary, but if you already have a fan in the ceiling, and you have a qualified handyman who can do the job, I could be wrong, but it seems that attic access might not be needed, if you are wishing only to switch out your old unit, and to put... » Read More I had another fan installed without attic access. However, I have recently learned that the original unit was not ducted correctly, to the outside as i was told, but it exhausts to the attic soffit area, which I'm told will cause frost this winter, and probably mildew and mold, not at all what is wished! So, in that case, yes, attic access will be necessary, but if you already have a fan in the ceiling, and you have a qualified handyman who can do the job, I could be wrong, but it seems that attic access might not be needed, if you are wishing only to switch out your old unit, and to put this one in. « Show Less
518367
I just installed this about 30 minutes ago. You will need attic access unless you plan on taking out your ceiling. The wiring can be done before putting the until between the joists but that's about it.
518368
No! I did install it as a retrofit and had no access to it from the attic but I had to modify the fan box to mount it securely because I could not use the rails. Also trying to wire it from below is a major pain (bad design) and trying to attach the roof vent to the fan with no attic access is a real hassle. I am fairly skilled and using this for a retrofit is not for the faint of heart. It is in and works great now but...
579082
It works great for me once I moved it around in my attic. I had to move it around since hvac pipes and a furnace were causing serious interference.
1560261
Yes but at Jemar noted the beam spread is very tight. I tried this and a retrofit kit from Costco. That one was rated for 35,000 hrs compared to this at 25k. It was much more efficient at 67 lumens/watt , uses only 18w vs 23, 1200 lumens vs 1035 and was much more diffuse. The retro kit installs just about as fast but also prevents heat escaping to the attic and keeps dust an insects out. Two completely different looks so you should try both.
412599
No! there is no adjustments. The switches are snap-action switches set at the factory. You could add your own switches with adjustable set points, but that would void any warranties there might be.The 85 and 65 should not be a problem for normal attic ventilation. The unit will only run when the sun is shining on your roof.
315974
This model is designed to be mounted indoors, that can be a home, shed or garage as long as it is not outside. Do pay attention to the clearances required for the unit to have enough fresh air tooperate.
2136434
I would say Yes, ours is a replacement for a similar one installed 25 years ago. It is under the eve of the roof almost to the peak, so we could get to the wiring inside the attic. But if you have one that is similar already there it should work. Turned out dirt dobbers had completely filled in the old siren, Nature usually wins!
2032854
The model number may be different than the electrical capacity. Its really a question for the manufacturer. My installation turned out to be unsuccessful in terms of providing adequate heat. Our building does not have sufficient insulation in the exterior walls, and our tenant has had to supplement the wall units with free standing radiant heaters.
491471
I think in very well might be better to install 2 of them. I have a single level 2400--but has a bonus room above garage--and a very tall attic space. I got 1 and it is only cooling my attic 10 degrees or so in the heat of the afternoon. I may look to buy a 2nd one later on down the road.
541806
Hi, from what I've learned, the attic would be considered as indoors, and this unit can do both. However, the challenge will occur with the installationof the correctly sized gas pipes that will be connected, to the unit in the attic. It can get costly! Good Luck!!
164815
It would go either I suppose even though I would not recommend attic dissipation. I bought two of them and went the extra mile installing vents on the roof connecting both ends with aluminum duct hoses. I had them for 8 month now and I'm very happy so far.
1994874
No. This is not suitable for attic use. There are several attic exhaust fans on the market that would work much better. Amazon has a couple different Broan roof mount units,but your use is dependent on attic size, attic shape, inlet air size, placement, power supply, and other air outlets. I would recommend thermostat and humidity control. I would suggest contacting a building or roofing contractor for help. It can get a little complicated to properly size a unit.
1805566
My hunch is that it will fit. I just installed two of them in an older pair of cans that previously had "eyeball spots". The existing cans weren't shallow, but the 420W had room to spare. The retrofit was very simple and only took five minutes each. It really modernized the look. We were very pleased with the product.
1449533
Depending on your local electrical codes, you SHOULD NOT conceal the transformer and it's electrical connections in an enclosed stud cavity. You're not even supposed to have any inaccessible junction boxes, such as those behind drywall. Depending on whether or not the existing thermostat wire is stapled or otherwise secured in the various wall cavities, you could use it to pull a new thermostat wire that has enough conductors to convey power to the thermostat while mounting the transformer in your basement or wherever your HVAC equipment is. That all being said, if you're going to put the transformer in a stud bay regardless of what anyone says, it's much safer to use a 4" junction box and the included mounting plate such that the high voltage connections are made inside of the junction box. There is a fuse (thermal or otherwise) inside the transformer on the primary winding that should open up if the transformer is overloaded. This will render the transformer useless if it is allowed to be overloaded; however, if you're merely powering a thermostat with it, this is unlikely to happen. The least favorable solution would be to foot-mount the transformer to a stud as this would leave the HV wiring exposed in the wall cavity. If you can't fit a 4" junction box in the cavity (remember you can use nails or screws to mount a 4" box to a stud SIDEWAYS as there are two screw holes on each of the shallow sides, typically), I would at least use a small "handy box" to protect the wiring. IN THE VERY LEAST, PLEASE DON'T SIMPLY MAKE THE CONNECTION WITH WIRE NUTS LOOSE IN THE WALL CAVITY! Repeating myself: If at all possible, use the existing thermostat wire and/or "fish tape" to pull new thermostat wire with at least one added conductor to the site of the thermostat. This will allow you to do the proper thing and mount the transformer with your boiler/furnace/whatever. There you can either foot-mount it to a stud or mount it in a 4" junction box. I hope this helps.
933373
Technically this is difficult to answer, without seeing your exact set up. The big issue with these is that they do have specific venting requirements, with special pipe etc. If you can satisfy those, you should be good to go as the unit itself does not put out a lot of heat (ours is a 2 person household. YMMV if you have this running for hours keeping up with multiple showers etc.) Our hangs in a relatively tight attic "crawl space" in condo - and very satisfied.
25600
If you have an attic vent fan already working efficiently then probably not. If you do not have one, then installing this should help reduce heat build up in the attic which in turn should reduce the heat on your second floor.
1047765
I would not use this in a attic. It will not move enough air and is not set for temp
1936348
I agree with idget. Unless you already have one of these, I'd look for a product designed for horizontal mounting. You could also just passively vent hot air into the attic and use this fan (at an attic gable vent for example) or your existing attic ventilation to send the heat from the attic to the outside.