im recoating with same rustoleum epoxy concrete paint how do i prep old surface so it will adhere
518007
Before you recoat, the paint that you have on the floor MUST be in good shape. No peeling or chipping. There is a test where you take a razor knife and make an X in your old paint, then cover the X with duct tape then pull up tape and if it is less than 10% (I am not sure it could have been a little more than 10%) that comes up with tape, you are good to start prepping the floor. Sand the entire floor with 60 grit paper. You can use a electric sander. Rough up the original coating and clean dust WELL. Vacuum, Dust Mop and rinse and dry. There can be no residue on floor. Now you can apply Rust-Oleum solvent based floor coating NOT WATER BASE. I know this sounds like a lot of work but it beats the highly dusty mess from using a diamond sander to remove old coating to bare concrete. This Rust-Oleum solvent based floor paint is an excellent product and for me the coverage was more than advertised.
1869243
I will tell you one thing. do no skimp on prep time. If you can, san all of the old paint off first. It is not easy, but this is the only way to get a factory finish. might i suggest a wire wheel on a drill, then after that , smooth out the metal o it is realatively smooth. When you now paint it, make sure you do noy let the nozzle get to close to prevent runs, if ny type of imperfections were to happen, then wait for the taint to dry, then sand the imperfevt area, then put on at leaaaat two thinne coats rather than one Robert thicke coat
2011497
Absolutely. Lightly sand and clean the surface thoroughly then apply the epoxy. Surface preparation is vital to acquiring a solid bond.
1041496
It cures with a glossy finish. A proper surface prep (scuff sand) once fully cured would be in order to maximize adhesion of any paint/primer you plan to lay over it.
1541898
Yes, this is the stuff you want to use. I used it on my garage and put it over my rustoleum epoxy shield gray color. I did it almost a year ago and it looks just as shiny as the day I did it. Make sure to use the grit (aluminum oxide) it comes with to mix into the clear coat in the bucket or the floor will be extremely slippery if ever gets even slightly wet. You have to do it within 30 hours (I think) of laying down the primary color or you have to scuff the entire floor for it adhere properly. The instructions will clearly state this. This stuff is extremely durable. I have rolled heavy floor jacks over it and put jack stands on it and it doesn't even get scratched. Any liquids (even harsh ones) just wipe up with a per towel. If you use one can go very heavy on the application or buy two and do two coats over two days. I did one garage with one heavy coat and one garage with two medium coats and the two coats look better than the heavy coat but it also took two cans. You have to have someone with a strong flashlight (wife?) following you and shining it at a very low angle to make sure you overlap edges and don't miss anything.
777809
I suggest sanding out the rust first before applying this. I also suggest the filler then this touch up as the filler will smooth out the surface and can be sanded flush with the rest of the area. The is a paint type product to match the color. The one I used is white and it is very white.
350097
You need to cut out the foam and attach to the hard surface. I did not use the glue that came with it. I used Loctite plastic epoxy. It holds really good this way, have not had any issues.
1932430
Use the J and B and shore something up against the panel for about 24 hours or 2 days after using J and B for maximum cure time. Use a cinder block and slide up against panel so it doesn't slip during hardening process
1692061
this stuff will work well, just be sure to really clean and prep the surface before you start!
338233
Rustoleum suggests using there etch system for the system. I choose the seal krete etch and clean at 1:1 ratio. Worked pefectly... just follow directions but change the ratios......and clean clean clean....
1512338
I have no clue because my garage floor was concrete prior to the Epoxy application. Suggest you contact Rust-oleum company for an answer. I have a feeling the epoxy is only designed for concrete...but that's just a hunch.
1113509
I don't know where you live, but if you could get the bar sand or media blasted first that would take off any rust and loose chrome or anything else for that matter. If you can't do that you can just sand it by hand until you have a smooth and rust free surface and then use the primer. Another way is to buy a can of rust remover and shoot it on first, then sand and primer. The rust reformer will keep any rust from coming thru the new finish. You can purchase it on Amazon too. Hope this helps you.
1592622
if you acid washed the concrete and proper prep instructions this simple 2 sided tape should not in no way hurt the epoxy. the only way it would is if the epoxy was not cured to the floor in this area. hope this helps. A Bonus I went with the traffic signal style $20 here for the plus model as I got tired of kicking these things. Good luck.
346346
You should remove all loose scale with a wire brush before applying. I went over my trailer frame with a wire brush, and a smaller wire brush in hard to reach areas. Afterwards, I applied the rust converter as directed, and applied two coats. I allowed the first coat to cure (about 30 mins., depending upon the air temperature and humidity) between coats. It worked well. I painted the converted surface where it was exposed to sunlight with black Rustoleum enamel.
1299597
I think preparation of sink surface is key to successful application. If surface rust and bump can be smoothed then product will adhere properly. Otherwise you will see bumps when paint cures. I applied product to bathtub with rust streaks showing through enamel. I couldn't get the rust streaks as smooth with the enamel, some bumps can be seen after paint cured. The rust spots still showed through after awhile. I think I needed to prime first and follow up with this product. So preparation is to get down to bare metal with all rust removed before application.
2193198
No, not unless the rust is removed, primed and then sprayed. I used it after sanding, a bonding, priming, matching the paint and then the clear coat. It might help over a fresh scrape. once there is rust, it has to be repaired. Hope that helps.
1555352
I'm assuming you will apply the POR15 with a brush. The etching will definitely affect the adjacent exterior paint. You will want to build a ledge along the bottom of the corroded area using masking tape and cardboard to catch the metal prep. Take care to keep the corroded area wet, but not so much it flows onto the exterior paint. Once the area is etched with the metal prep the water will neutralize the acid of the metal prep. Dry thr area thoroughly and brush on the POR 15. Randy in Wichita