shallow depth of field Can you get a shallow depth of field with this camera?I want to take good portraits of my kid with blurry backgrounds and that's the main reason I am shopping for a camera now. shallow depth of field Can you get a shallow depth of field with this camera?I want to take good portraits of my kid with blurry backgrounds and that's the main reason I am shopping... » Read More shallow depth of field Can you get a shallow depth of field with this camera?I want to take good portraits of my kid with blurry backgrounds and that's the main reason I am shopping for a camera now. « Show Less
504105
check out Fuji's F70 and F80 - they have this function, although I can't recall how well it was working (I returned F70 for its bad SD video).
504106
Unfortunately, its much harder to get good background blurring with a small sensor like this one. For that, you want larger sensor and a wide aperture (f/2.8 or less). You might want to try out a dSLR with something like a 50mm f1.8 lens at your local camera shop.
504107
Sadly, I think it's going to be hard to find a point-and-shoot with enough aperture range to get these kind of shots.
859393
CWBaker. you wrote "Need 3D pop? Add telephoto and wide aperture and focus carefully" Please explain a little clearer? I'm a bit of a newbie and want 3d pop! Thanks.
646120
Hello,On EXR and Auto mode I've found my images in low light to be sub par without using the flash - which then can unfortunately cause it's own set of problems. However, as I learn the camera I find adjusting the settings and really depending on the manual as a reference guide, along with youtube tutorial videos that my low and dim light photos are improving. I'm an Amateur at this stage of course but more advanced photographers would have an effortless time taking great shots in low light conditions. If you're shopping around check out the Panasonic FZ200 and the Sony DDSC-HX300 both have won tremendous accolades for low light performance. Hope this helps! Hello,On EXR and Auto mode I've found my images in low light to be sub par without using the flash - which then can unfortunately cause it's own set of problems. However, as I learn the camera I find adjusting the settings and really depending on the manual as a reference guide, along with youtube tutorial videos that my low and dim light photos are improving. I'm an Amateur at this stage of course but more advanced photographers would have an effortless time taking great shots in low light conditions. If you're shopping around check out the Panasonic FZ200 and the Sony... » Read More Hello,On EXR and Auto mode I've found my images in low light to be sub par without using the flash - which then can unfortunately cause it's own set of problems. However, as I learn the camera I find adjusting the settings and really depending on the manual as a reference guide, along with youtube tutorial videos that my low and dim light photos are improving. I'm an Amateur at this stage of course but more advanced photographers would have an effortless time taking great shots in low light conditions. If you're shopping around check out the Panasonic FZ200 and the Sony DDSC-HX300 both have won tremendous accolades for low light performance. Hope this helps! « Show Less
1125281
No I don't think so. If you put that lense on a camera that is not FULL frame, you just gain distance. If you put it on FULL frame, you get a good clear shot. I like the lens.
282257
It will depend on the number of subjects you are trying to shoot and how far they are apart from front to back. Remember that lower f-stop numbers equal shallower depth of field and you may find shooting a large group challenging to focus all of subjects. I usually shoot at f2.8 with this lens which is equal to approximately f4 on a full frame camera (5D III, 6D). This will give you relatively workable depth with moderate background blur. Might need to adjust the distortion in Photoshop or Camera RAW of portraits of larger group.
515648
Hi,I'm not a good expert in photography. Nevertheless, the pictures taken under low light situation are clear and good quality. My pictures at sunshine and sunset are very clear. I did not even need the flash systematically. The automatic function picks the automatically the adequate option for the pictures. Hopefully, this helps you to decide.
1532924
I thought I had that problem...but, I really didn't. Sometimes when I aim at camera at a scene I want to photograph, that scene is blurry. However, it does not last. I lightly click the button that takes the picture, without pushing it down hard enough to take that picture. Every time, so far, the image rights itself and is no longer blurry, but sharp. I believe every time I have had the blurry image appear, it has been in daylight and on auto setting.
671248
Depth of field is controlled by aperture. A very small aperture causes a deep depth of field ie everything in focus. a large aperture opening causes a very short depth of field, ie only subject is in focus while background is fuzzy. To control this you need to put camera in mannual and make low asa setting, wide aperture - smaller number and very fast shutter speed. This camera has a rather narrow aperture range of f3.5 to F5.4 so you would use the F3.5 setting and the shutter speed necessary to not overexpose the image.
532324
Since you say, "No Zoom" I have to guess you're using the 16mm "pancake" lens or something similar. The standard lens that comes when you order the "kit" (camera-with-lens as opposed to body only) is an 18-50mm ZOOM lens. AT THE RISK OF GIVING TOO MUCH INFORMATION . . . There are two primary factors that determine how deep the focusing area (depth-of-field) is: focal length (measured in mm) and lens aperture (measured in F-stops). The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth-of-field, and the larger the aperture, the shallower the depth-of-field. The 16mm camera is a wide-angle lens with a small aperture (lens opening) and thus has much more depth of field than a 35mm or above. (Depth-of-field is a term that describes the area behind and in front of the subject you're focusing on--more depth of field means a greater area in focus, and shallow depth-of-field means everything behind and in front of your subject is out of focus.) The depth of field of a 16mm wide-angle lens is deep, while that of a longer one like a 50mm short telephoto lens is shallow. That's why we (usually) take portraits with longer lenses or zoom in to a telephoto focal length--because we want to isolate the subject from the background by keeping it in focus while blurring behind it, in front of it, or both. Therefore use telephoto focal length and/or wide aperture settings for blurred backgrounds, and wide-angle and/or small aperture settings for keeping a large area around your subject in sharper focus.
1028023
you have focal/focus point,which is what it says.depth of focus is what you can use for average focal/focus. too little makes it hard to stay in focus,too much is all blur.
355603
Yes (I have one). Search for FZ200 shallow depth of field for example images
434660
No, you won't get really shallow depth of field with the 16-50 kit zoom or the DoF modifications available in the menu. But lay out $50 or less for an old manual focus 50mm f/1.4 or 1.8 and an adapter, focus it manually with the peak focus feature, and you'll get fine image quality with all the DoF control you could want, easily. It's beautiful.
1037487
Twist the lens. It may be that it is indeed too low to get a good focus. If you twist the lens on mine, it comes into focus.
144793
If you can, I have not been able to figure out how. It is the only negative aspect of the camera, as far as I am concerned. If I wanted my kids to play electronic games, I would buy them. I bought a camera. It is an unfortunate feature. I wish it was just an optional add-on.
2109428
Sometimes one wants to use a slow shutter speed, for example, to blur moving water or even "erase" moving objects. Besides on-camera options such as low ISO and stopping down (which will increase depth-of-field -- something you may not want) one can use a Neutral Density filter to allow a longer exposure time. Always use a tripod for long exposures, and a remote shutter release is a good idea, too.
1076522
You can put the camera in A or Av mode which is aperature priority and choose a wide open f/stop like f2.8 or f4.0 to help blur the background due to the shallow depth of field. You will focus on the persons eye closest to the camera and the camera will auto determine the correct shutter speed to use to get a well exposed picture to meet its "middle grey" program. Be careful though as when you use shallow depth of field with a wide aperture its easier to get blurry pix as there is only a small window that will be in focus. for 1 person f2.8 or f4 is ok but if you have more people you will need f5.6 or f8 to keep them all sharp if they are standing next to each other or behind each other. You can put the camera in A or Av mode which is aperature priority and choose a wide open f/stop like f2.8 or f4.0 to help blur the background due to the shallow depth of field. You will focus on the persons eye closest to the camera and the camera will auto determine the correct shutter speed to use to get a well exposed picture to meet its "middle grey" program. Be careful though as when you use shallow depth of field with a wide aperture its easier to get blurry pix as there is only a small window that will be in focus. for 1 person f2.8 or f4 is ok but if you have more people... » Read More You can put the camera in A or Av mode which is aperature priority and choose a wide open f/stop like f2.8 or f4.0 to help blur the background due to the shallow depth of field. You will focus on the persons eye closest to the camera and the camera will auto determine the correct shutter speed to use to get a well exposed picture to meet its "middle grey" program. Be careful though as when you use shallow depth of field with a wide aperture its easier to get blurry pix as there is only a small window that will be in focus. for 1 person f2.8 or f4 is ok but if you have more people you will need f5.6 or f8 to keep them all sharp if they are standing next to each other or behind each other. « Show Less
871931
Sorry, I haven't had this problem. I think I remember it's best to focus from a normal angle to assure good focus zooming in. I presume you are also careful to center the image on the subject you want sharp. Ther might also be a setting to tell the camera how to handle close up shots. There may be levels orb types if selectivity possible. Depth of field is more critical in telephoto so it doesn't take much to throw it off. Sorry I don't have the camera or manual handy.