Replaced our old Hayward pump with this one and every time we turn it on, it trips the breaker. Have it wired to a dedicated 220v box. Any idea?
519974
Replace 15 amp circuit breaker with a 20 amp breaker. Yes I know the manual calls for a 15 amp breaker, and the motor is rated at 10.9 amps. It worked and both Hayward and licensed electrician agreed the pump would be OK. Cheap and quick fix.
519975
Mike, had this issue once with my old pump, I accidentally switched the L1 and L2 wires. Mark them first ( for the future) and swap them. I also heard to make sure the internal ground and the external copper ground is attached as well. Hope this helps, once you dial in the timers this pump is pretty awesome.
519976
Sounds like a circuit problem. Call a certified pool electrician if you can't check it out. I've had the pump for a few months now and it works like it is supposed to! No problemO!
519977
Sounds like you have a short. I had NO LUCK WITH this pump. I have nothing good to say about it.
519978
Michael, did you get the problem solved? I have the same issue and was told to try a Siemens breaker.
534577
Mine is the 115V only. I used a CGFI cord and there is a ground tap on top. Some states require bonding of swimming pool and pump. Hope this helps.
1027860
I wired my motor for 220v. Let me check the specs (including breaker) and get back to you later tonight or tomorrow.
1805771
I did the same thing. Charged the battery reading 13v but the pump has a red light and then a green light but it never goes on. I thought this pump would work great but it has given me a lot of problems.
1420510
Shorten your wiring your losing voltage and check your regulator you also have to check if you pump has a higher surge wattage or voltage to start pump. reposition panels
1580676
This pump has the electrical incorporated in to the top cover. The float is pre-wired, so all you do is plug it into an 120 VAC common household outlet. The outlet should be 120 VAC rated at 20 amps at the breaker. The service disconnect is you unplugging the pump. This pump will run when the float is lifted up by the water level in the receiver tank. The pump running stops when the water level allows the float to flop down (as seen in the illustration at Amazon). Hope this answers your question - Mike
1988985
You can set the pump to either 115 or 230 You can make the change by removing the back housing Mine ran on 230 which I think was perset If it trips the breaker at 115 you either have a fault or the breaker is to low It should be a 25 amp The motor does draw a good amount of power
1694656
This pump is hydraulicaly operated. Its not electric. You have to connect all the ports in it. You cannot leave ports unconnected. Google permeate pump connection schematic and Im sure you'll find a good schematic.
2032290
There is a repair kit they sell on Amazon. Not hard to do, if you pull the pump take the switch cover off and check to see if water got in there.You can plug the pump it and activate the switch manually to see if it is working if not buy the replacement switch. I would buy another pump and see if I could repair the old one to keep as a back up.
1762724
I too have this problem. I've tried all these suggestions. Nothing works. I e-mailed Hayward days ago. They won't answer me. I think this must be a common problem. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
1356810
My system shut off after a couple months of being installed as well (240v). I removed canister and electrodes appeared to have a lot of buildup, so I made a little brass brush on a handle that I could get inside and clean the elements. after doing this several times and rinsing (water came out rust colour), I replaced and it is working fine. Will wait and see how long this one lasts. I clamped it and was only pulling about 2-3 amps initially, but after a couple days it is now up to 10-11 amps per leg.
2126429
yes willie...how do i do to replaced pump with low voltage pump. it's too strong pump. i have probllem with water flash out on floor. thanks you for asking.
2001006
Unfortunately, your idea doesn't work as described on a 2-wire 220 circuit. That is, unless you use the bare ground as a neutral, and that isn't really too Kosher, although logically I don't know why. It would be nice to see what my submersible well pump, window mount A/C unit and air compressor are using.
1547499
Have not had any problems with this pump. Had continual problems with my other pump. Would have an electrician check for possible short, or breaker size may be smaller than required?
1349926
I doubt it. When you plugged it into a 220V receptacle, I imagine you ruined the pump pretty quickly but it's such a small pump, I can't imagine that anyone makes a comparable replacement that runs on 220V. Do you not have access to a 110/120V outlet?
1078334
Yes. My well pump is 220V 40amp. I have it connected to the first pair of red switches. The black breakers are 15 amp each, the reds are 20 amps each. Jumper bars are included in the kit, as are instructions. For 220V 30 amp you would jumper a pair of the black switches. Allow me to reiterate how ridiculously simple this is to install. You will spend more time planning your circuits than the actual wiring will take. Instructions are very clear. When we eventually move into another house I will buy this again and install there as well.
1150866
I'm using it with what I believe is referred to as a two wire pump. It is 240V, switches just the two 240v leads (black and white), has ground screws and has no provision for a third wire. One thing about the low pressure cut out switch on this. It may have already saved my pump. We have some kind of problem developing where the pump is not able to keep up with the flow. The switch tripped a few times then stopped when the condion seemed to have righted itself. The only negative there, not much of one, is that the swich to restart the pump is a little tricky if it trips. You have to find the sweet spot where it engages. In my setup I can here it start to flow so it's not a problem for me. I'm using it with what I believe is referred to as a two wire pump. It is 240V, switches just the two 240v leads (black and white), has ground screws and has no provision for a third wire. One thing about the low pressure cut out switch on this. It may have already saved my pump. We have some kind of problem developing where the pump is not able to keep up with the flow. The switch tripped a few times then stopped when the condion seemed to have righted itself. The only negative there, not much of one, is that the swich to restart the pump is a little tricky if it trips. You have to find... » Read More I'm using it with what I believe is referred to as a two wire pump. It is 240V, switches just the two 240v leads (black and white), has ground screws and has no provision for a third wire. One thing about the low pressure cut out switch on this. It may have already saved my pump. We have some kind of problem developing where the pump is not able to keep up with the flow. The switch tripped a few times then stopped when the condion seemed to have righted itself. The only negative there, not much of one, is that the swich to restart the pump is a little tricky if it trips. You have to find the sweet spot where it engages. In my setup I can here it start to flow so it's not a problem for me. « Show Less