What clear coat should be used, brand wise? Clear coat is usually for metal and we are talking about multiple types of material on the panel???
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I have not had any issues with the new panels, but my thought was to use the 3m protective film like you can get for cars if it started smearing again.
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Dear Amazon User, I installed clear, colorless UV blocking film from Gila on the bottom row of my french window (with 4 rows) because the light only came through the bottom row due to the overheng of my roofline. I found that I cannot see any difference in the coated windows versus the uncoated. It is quite undetectable. Ken in So Cal.
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Good morning Russelk777Base on my own experience, adding the clear coat will not make it shine, as of fact, it will give it a matte look.
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Some colors are sheer, some opaque. I find the metallics are one coat coverage for me. The opaque neons are also one coat coverage for me. The pastels and sheers require several coats (or even another opaque polish as a base). I suggest a top coat but don't have a huge problem with chipping (typical one week wear time is what I can get w active hands). Hope that helped.
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Hi Nathan, I agree with MOzarkian regarding the spray. I'd make sure to cover the entire piece, front and back well. I live in Florida, and we too decorate outside walls......clear sealant is my best friend!!! You might have less issue with rust as where you are it is a much drier climate.
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I have used this on both plastic and glass lights. Ive also tested it on chrome both metal and plastic dipped. Tested it on an old door window from a car and it worked well. When using it on chrome or glass be sure to put very lite coats and i recommend a clear coat for long lasting shine. Duplicolor clear works very good. Hope this helped
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Self etch primer would be a good idea if applying to bare metal. Although this is not a high temperature paint.
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Matte finish. Should work for your application. Get your long straight edge and Exacto knife ready.
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I would suggest using fine steel wool and the clear coat very light coats....
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This is fine "cut" cleaner, though it's called Mirror Glaze(which is confusing-look at the red meter on left, and go lower to get finer grits), and #5 is surely an abrasive for removing scratches, heavy oxidation, etc....and should not be a repeat process over the same panels. When the panel is free of scratching(if not too deep), move to finer grit, swirl remover #4, before getting to non-abrasive "show car glaze", and/or wax. Hopefully not letting it get away from you, by washing and waxing often, maintaining the clearcoat...hope this helps.
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While the Lincoln is still dealer clean, I'd put 2 or 3 coats of Collinite Insulator wax waiting a few days between applications. I find that gives a great finish that lasts all through brutal winters and hot summers, washes clean easily, while also cutting down on road rash chips 'n' scratches in the clearcoat. Just my $.02.
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Haze. It should not be applied on any other surface but metal. For plastics use other Meguiars products.
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I clear coated some aluminum wheels that I reconditioned. Should work great to seal as a rust preventative. If you are painting on bare steel there is prep product that they recommend fore bare metal(for adhesion). I forget the name but is made by the same company. I would definately recommend this product. It takes some time to dry(harden) but well worth the wait.
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depends on the laminate you use. There is optically clear laminate available
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I would recomment that you use strictly indoor, unless you paint a clear coat of polymer or something along that line over top to protect.
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I would do it just to be safe. I put 3-4 coats of clear on mine to keep them from fading in the sun. I think the clear is worth it for the $6 it costs
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I would recommend metal, it does get quite warm but I never have to worry about it melting and it works well on thicker fabrics/coats.