35mm film digitalized? I have a contax g2 which I really like, small and compack as the Leica m9. If I take my 35mm exposed film somewhere to develop and it is put on a disc, will the quality be the same as the actual 35mm negatives? e. g. will the megapixels, or mebabytes be high resolution or will they lose something in the process? The m9 is a good alternative since it is Digital but the price is very expensive and I would rather stick to the Contax g2. BTW, the G2 takes very good 35mm film photos. 35mm film digitalized? I have a contax g2 which I really like, small and compack as the Leica m9. If I take my 35mm exposed film somewhere to develop and it is put on a disc, will the quality be... » Read More 35mm film digitalized? I have a contax g2 which I really like, small and compack as the Leica m9. If I take my 35mm exposed film somewhere to develop and it is put on a disc, will the quality be the same as the actual 35mm negatives? e. g. will the megapixels, or mebabytes be high resolution or will they lose something in the process? The m9 is a good alternative since it is Digital but the price is very expensive and I would rather stick to the Contax g2. BTW, the G2 takes very good 35mm film photos. « Show Less
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Depends on the quality of the 35mm film camera/lens combo you will use and the scanner that will be used to scan the film. Using some of the best film cameras and best film scanners, the resolution you can get from film will be much higher than 18 MP. Newer digital movie cameras used in Hollywood shoot upto 4K resolution. Many studios want the older movies shot on film reel converted into 4K digital format soon, and they are not worried about it. They claim that the film has more resolution available than needed for the new 4K format.
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It is best for viewing 35mm slides. I've never tried it to view negatives. This device illustrates the old adage "you get what you pay for".
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Bill, not sure if the ICE doesn't work with Kodachrome, or the dmax of the V500 is just insufficient for Kodachrome. I felt my V500 wasn't up to the task regardless, so I went with a slide duplicator on my digital camera. I can pump tons of light through it...but of course I have to deal with the dust manually. ;-)Golfer, I'm not sure what they are doing on the V600, whether they're really using the IR pre-scan to identify flaws (tears, etc) in the print, or they are just "rebranding" digital ICE to include software-based flaw removal.I don't scan enough prints to make it worth finding out. Bill, not sure if the ICE doesn't work with Kodachrome, or the dmax of the V500 is just insufficient for Kodachrome. I felt my V500 wasn't up to the task regardless, so I went with a slide duplicator on my digital camera. I can pump tons of light through it...but of course I have to deal with the dust manually. ;-)Golfer, I'm not sure what they are doing on the V600, whether they're really using the IR pre-scan to identify flaws (tears, etc) in the print, or they are just "rebranding" digital ICE to include software-based flaw removal.I don't scan enough... » Read More Bill, not sure if the ICE doesn't work with Kodachrome, or the dmax of the V500 is just insufficient for Kodachrome. I felt my V500 wasn't up to the task regardless, so I went with a slide duplicator on my digital camera. I can pump tons of light through it...but of course I have to deal with the dust manually. ;-)Golfer, I'm not sure what they are doing on the V600, whether they're really using the IR pre-scan to identify flaws (tears, etc) in the print, or they are just "rebranding" digital ICE to include software-based flaw removal.I don't scan enough prints to make it worth finding out. « Show Less
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I had no problem with the resolution of either 35mm color or B&W; negs. 35mm slides are no problem either, as long as you remove them from the slide holders (plastic or cardboard usually). the only problem I had was that the unit only lasted two months before it fried, and when it quit it also took out a high dollar flash drive chip ($70.00) that I'll have to replace.
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Actually, I bought the wrong type of film when I purchased the camera for my 8-year old niece. It appears that what's available has expired, but I'm going to purchase one anyone if I'm unsuccessful finding it at a local camera shop.
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Technically it has incredible Image Quality, so not just a good 1st, it's a keeper. It is more a question of preferences: If you like menus to control your camera, there are many others you could look at, however if you prefer dedicated dials like on film cameras for shutter speed, aperture and focus, it is Leica or Fuji X... I started with a Nikon F2, it went with me to every corner of the world. When digital came about I couldn't warm up to menus, did have a G10 that was quite good, but now with the X-E2 I am truly enjoying photography again. Keep in mind, it is not about the technology, it is about what you do with it, which also means once you find a camera you really like you can stay with it for a very long time, it should become an extension of your eyesight...
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Although I do not work for Fujifilm - i have used this film extensively. I buy the large pack of film about every year. I keep mine in a dark place (in a drawer). The film works great a year after I buy it.The benefit with using this whole 'system' is that the Fujifilm is NEW! It's less than a year old. Whereas if you bought an original 'polaroid' brand camera and you were LUCKY enough to find film for it - it would have been made in the 1980's. (yeah that old!) After 20 years - unused film can go bad. Fujifilm used in this system is NEW (1 year old or less) It will be fine! Although I do not work for Fujifilm - i have used this film extensively. I buy the large pack of film about every year. I keep mine in a dark place (in a drawer). The film works great a year after I buy it.The benefit with using this whole 'system' is that the Fujifilm is NEW! It's less than a year old. Whereas if you bought an original 'polaroid' brand camera and you were LUCKY enough to find film for it - it would have been made in the 1980's. (yeah that old!) After 20 years - unused film can go bad. Fujifilm used in this system is NEW (1 year old or less) It will be fine!
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I can tell about my experience. The noted the problem on mine too. It gives a glossy aspect to the picture. I got in contact with photodiox and they sent me a new one straight away. The second one seems to work way better, although it still happen once in a while. Since for me its just a hobby, its not a big deal but it may be a problem if you need it to work. By the way, im very pleased with the product and i believe its the only option to use the Konica AR lenses with Canon EOS.
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This camera is excellent, and can certainly handle low light by setting the sensitivity to higher ISO's (or through the use of faster lenses). However, like most cameras and sensors, the use of higher ISO's will introduce "graininess" in the images. Sort of analogous to higher speed films in the old film days. Photographing documents is possible with most any camera, however, the quality of the images are dependent on the quality of the lenses. Depending on the document to be recorded, it may be necessary to invest in a macro lens. In essence, the camera body itself has little impact on the ability to photograph documents. Hope this is helpful. This camera is excellent, and can certainly handle low light by setting the sensitivity to higher ISO's (or through the use of faster lenses). However, like most cameras and sensors, the use of higher ISO's will introduce "graininess" in the images. Sort of analogous to higher speed films in the old film days. Photographing documents is possible with most any camera, however, the quality of the images are dependent on the quality of the lenses. Depending on the document to be recorded, it may be necessary to invest in a macro lens. In essence, the camera body itself has little... » Read More This camera is excellent, and can certainly handle low light by setting the sensitivity to higher ISO's (or through the use of faster lenses). However, like most cameras and sensors, the use of higher ISO's will introduce "graininess" in the images. Sort of analogous to higher speed films in the old film days. Photographing documents is possible with most any camera, however, the quality of the images are dependent on the quality of the lenses. Depending on the document to be recorded, it may be necessary to invest in a macro lens. In essence, the camera body itself has little impact on the ability to photograph documents. Hope this is helpful. « Show Less
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Yes, the extra 4MP are not an advantage (except maybe at ISO80), but the larger CCD is. In theory, that means if you use the 8MP setting on the G9, you'll have a little less noise. You summed up the other pros and cons well, though - pretty much what I was processing when I chose b/w the 2. Finally, I decided to go with RAW, though. At least the QA problems didn't affect me except for 1 mildly hot blue pixel on the LCD.
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There's also a 35mm f/2 from Canon, which can be had for around $230. But one thing to remember about the Canon non-L primes is that the back lens usually isn't coated for digital. Digital sensors are a lot more reflective than film, so unless your optics are properly coated exposures with bright light sources in the frame can receive nasty green "ghosts." This can really ruin an image. Sigma's DC lenses seem to be coated properly. Furthermore, the 35mm is just a little bit too "long" to be a normal lens. One of the great things about shooting normal is you can open both your eyes and see pretty much the same scene. You can't do that with a 35, your camera eye is too close. Finally, realize that the smaller sensor on a digital means your need a wider aperture to acheive the same depth of field effects as a full frame camera. This is the only lens under $800 that approximates the abilities of a 50mm f/1.8 on a film camera.
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I am retired and love photography. I found myself with thousands and thousands of photos, slides and negatives that I needed to convert to digital. I bought two different machines the "Pandigital Photolink" for the photographs, I love this machine. I bought another slide and negative to digital picture converter, with this last one, I am converting hundreds of mounted slides and negatives to digital. If you google "SLIDE AND NEGATIVE TO DIGITAL PICTURE CONVERTER" you will find many types and styles from $55.00 to $150.00 or more. They work great!!!! Amazon.com have many of these. I hope my answer can help you. Two machines is the best deal. one for photos, the other one for slides and negatives.
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Myrna, Have you gotten your camera, yet? If so, what do you think of it? This would be my first digital camera, and what attracts me to this is that it has manual controls. I would be learning photography on it, so I figure I should have manual and auto controls. I am looking to get a Panasonic because a sales person at Best Buy raved about them and said they have the best lenses. To be honest, I know practically nothing about photography, but have had an interest in it for many years. Do you think this camera would be a good plact to start, at least digitally? Thanks, M
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hello, have you tried scannin 110 film?..this is the really small film that came in a cartridge..do you think this scanner would work with 110 film?..thanks! fred
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You are right. I use a Micro Nikkor 55 mm f/3.5 lens. It works very well on my D800, and copies 35mm negatives and slides with a high degree of sharpness and excellent value scale (shoot RAW only).The quality is better than you would get using a good flatbed scanner like the Epson 750, and is nearly as good as what a good dedicated film scanner would give you (I use the old but famous Minolta Dimage Multi-Scan Pro with VueScan software).You would get even better results using a newer macro lens like the current 60mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor or equivalent.I reverse and adjust the values in Photoshop Curves. You are right. I use a Micro Nikkor 55 mm f/3.5 lens. It works very well on my D800, and copies 35mm negatives and slides with a high degree of sharpness and excellent value scale (shoot RAW only).The quality is better than you would get using a good flatbed scanner like the Epson 750, and is nearly as good as what a good dedicated film scanner would give you (I use the old but famous Minolta Dimage Multi-Scan Pro with VueScan software).You would get even better results using a newer macro lens like the current 60mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor or equivalent.I reverse... » Read More You are right. I use a Micro Nikkor 55 mm f/3.5 lens. It works very well on my D800, and copies 35mm negatives and slides with a high degree of sharpness and excellent value scale (shoot RAW only).The quality is better than you would get using a good flatbed scanner like the Epson 750, and is nearly as good as what a good dedicated film scanner would give you (I use the old but famous Minolta Dimage Multi-Scan Pro with VueScan software).You would get even better results using a newer macro lens like the current 60mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor or equivalent.I reverse and adjust the values in Photoshop Curves. « Show Less
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I suggest that you also think more about the lense than the operating software. The quality of the print is more dependant on the quality of the lense than anything else. The Panny has the Leica lense which is in a whole different class than anything Canon or Sony have. I have a Sony point-and-shoot, and saw some photo's a friend took with the Panasonic. The clarity is just amazing. No number of mega-pixels or fancy software can compensate for an unclear image.I'm buying the Panny.
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I shoot on the highest quality settings, with a lot of zooming in and out and switching to preview mode etc and the battery that came with the camera will last about an hour. I bought an extra battery for back. Talking to the camera shop staff, they told me that you can buy bigger batteries, such as 2 hour batteries or 4 hour batteries. They said that the four hour batteries are longer and stick out of the back of the camera a little, no big deal though. Hope this helps. I have the M400 model which is similar to the M41, it just has no internal memory (so is lighter) and stores the film on SD cards instead. Hope this helps. I shoot on the highest quality settings, with a lot of zooming in and out and switching to preview mode etc and the battery that came with the camera will last about an hour. I bought an extra battery for back. Talking to the camera shop staff, they told me that you can buy bigger batteries, such as 2 hour batteries or 4 hour batteries. They said that the four hour batteries are longer and stick out of the back of the camera a little, no big deal though. Hope this helps. I have the M400 model which is similar to the M41, it just has no internal memory (so is lighter) and stores the film on... » Read More I shoot on the highest quality settings, with a lot of zooming in and out and switching to preview mode etc and the battery that came with the camera will last about an hour. I bought an extra battery for back. Talking to the camera shop staff, they told me that you can buy bigger batteries, such as 2 hour batteries or 4 hour batteries. They said that the four hour batteries are longer and stick out of the back of the camera a little, no big deal though. Hope this helps. I have the M400 model which is similar to the M41, it just has no internal memory (so is lighter) and stores the film on SD cards instead. Hope this helps. « Show Less