Whats R-Value or Thermal Resistance for this Underlayment? Installing over Radiant Heated Concrete slab and need a low R-value.
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The manufacturer's information doesn't really say anything about R value and I doubt there is any. It must be extremely extremely small. I installed this underlayment over dricore panels. Works great...
677770
Hi Jane, I saved the backing from my Blossom Trivet. The Heat Resistance: 482 Fahrenheit (250 Celsius)
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The R value varies per application. The more air space there is results in higher efficiency, so, if used in a typical installation such as stapled to rafters or across joists where there is at least several inches of air space it will have a much higher r-value than if it's mounted directly to a surface, for example, as a wrap for ductwork. The product description states: "Has R 16.8 value for crawl space applications and R 6.13 value for basement walls." Those are much higher r-values than I've seen before through testing (more than double), though may represent the max value that can be achieved if installed with a very large air space for those type of applications. The R value varies per application. The more air space there is results in higher efficiency, so, if used in a typical installation such as stapled to rafters or across joists where there is at least several inches of air space it will have a much higher r-value than if it's mounted directly to a surface, for example, as a wrap for ductwork. The product description states: "Has R 16.8 value for crawl space applications and R 6.13 value for basement walls." Those are much higher r-values than I've seen before through testing (more than double), though may represent the... » Read More The R value varies per application. The more air space there is results in higher efficiency, so, if used in a typical installation such as stapled to rafters or across joists where there is at least several inches of air space it will have a much higher r-value than if it's mounted directly to a surface, for example, as a wrap for ductwork. The product description states: "Has R 16.8 value for crawl space applications and R 6.13 value for basement walls." Those are much higher r-values than I've seen before through testing (more than double), though may represent the max value that can be achieved if installed with a very large air space for those type of applications. « Show Less
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finally head from our designer. Please see response to your question. thanks, Lee CarCoverkingdomHi Lee,Here's an update: We contacted a vendor who manufacturers an RV with a rubber top and he advised that a Polypropylene cover will not react with the rubber top seal. Only issue is that some covers insulate so well, they can increase the temperature of the roof and cause laminate damage. Our covers do allow for ventilation so I think it would be a personal decision on the buyer's part.Let me know if you have any questions or need anything further?MJ finally head from our designer. Please see response to your question. thanks, Lee CarCoverkingdomHi Lee,Here's an update: We contacted a vendor who manufacturers an RV with a rubber top and he advised that a Polypropylene cover will not react with the rubber top seal. Only issue is that some covers insulate so well, they can increase the temperature of the roof and cause laminate damage. Our covers do allow for ventilation so I think it would be a personal decision on the buyer's part.Let me know if you have any questions or need anything... » Read More finally head from our designer. Please see response to your question. thanks, Lee CarCoverkingdomHi Lee,Here's an update: We contacted a vendor who manufacturers an RV with a rubber top and he advised that a Polypropylene cover will not react with the rubber top seal. Only issue is that some covers insulate so well, they can increase the temperature of the roof and cause laminate damage. Our covers do allow for ventilation so I think it would be a personal decision on the buyer's part.Let me know if you have any questions or need anything further?MJ « Show Less
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You don't. I returned this tstat because when I received it, I found the circuit board didn't have a floor sensor spot. It is often shown with radiant floors, on Amazon, something which I gave Amazon feedback about, but Amazon basically told me that if people buy the two together, even if it is wrong, their system will group it. The way this one checks temp is by an air temp sensor built into the unit, so your floor can get baking hot, before it really does much to the air, which means while it CAN work, it CANNOT work well or efficiently for radiant. Options include ones like Sunstat which makes a digital and a analog version. I have the digital, and it works great. Secondly...when installing a floor sensor (before you set your tiles), install 2 spaced several feet apart. Run both wire leads to the thermostat, label one as backup, and don't connect it, and use the other. If you ever have to replace a tile and accidentally cut the sensor wire, it is useless...and having a backup sensor already run, makes switching the wiring a MUCH cheaper and faster solution, than breaking up a row of tiles in order to lay a new sensor under the tile again. I got a second sensor wire for around 10 bucks, and (knock on wood) have not needed to use it. Also, if your sensor wire comes from the manufacturer with a short or break in it, because of the time you wait for the floor to cure before activating it, you won't find out about a problem until after you have done all the work...then having a problem can be pretty frustrating.
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My research showed that you should fasten down the heating wires first, then cover with a layer of thinset. You could make the layer thick enough to attach the ditra to this layer of thinset or let it cure. I chose to let it cure and then used another layer of thinset to attach the ditra. I felt that I would get a flatter bed for the tiles. Then you work your thinset above the ditra making certain to get every hole filled. I don't think the ditra is supposed to block the heat, it's more like the slab of thinset and tile all become one heat sink. It gets warm in my bathroom anyhow. Here is a link to the instructions for Ditra showing under floor heat. http://www.schluter.com/media/DITRAHandbook-ENG-2013.pdf?v=201311230605
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Good question and one best suited to be answered by the Mfg. I have no idea as to the resistance to heat.
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It's a big, albeit thin, slab of marble so should be as heat resistant as any rock. :) Of course extended high heat with high humidity may discolor it and any acidic liquids left to drip on it will begin to pit it.
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My electrician, who installed it, told me to lay down one full coat of mortar, let it dry, then lay down more mortar+tile as usual. He said that this would help protect the wiring. Be ware, though, that you must make this first layer *even* or else it will be a pain in the you-know-what to tile over uneven mortar. Make sure it's nice and smooth.
190126
I put the wire on top of fully dried concrete and poured concrete on top to set it, then tiled over with slate. I'm sure you could do a full concrete floor instead of tile. It would likely be warmer without the extra layer. FYI--on my first order this vendor sent the wrong length of wire. I payed for the longest and was sent one much smaller. They shipped the correct replacement length, but I had to mail the wrong one back. Very inconvenient.
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I used at 450 - no issue. I am sure it goes to 500+ - they probably don't want to state for legal reasons. Its cast iron - probably would take crematorium type heat to melt. I used over BBQ grill for pizza - no problem - just don't touch without gloves!
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This is a very poor insulator, I believe the R-value on this stuff is a 2. I would look into other options for insulation.
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Neal: The R value depends on the application is which the product is installed. InfraStop has been tested in metal buildings and pole barns in the various installation areas. These 2 links will give you information on the R-values and necessary airspace requirements. Thanks. http://www.insulationstop.com/post-frame-pole-barn-air-space-requirements http://www.insulationstop.com/metal-steel-building-air-space-requirements
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The castable cement is supposed to withstand temperatures of up to 2200 degrees. It is to be used with firebrick having the same heat characteristics. It is used in making high heat forges. I didn't know any better and used it to make an outdoor Pizza / Bread oven. Pizza is range 550 -600 deg. Bread is 360+ / - degree range. Later found out - and used- 1 part portland cement - 1 Part Fire Clay and 3 parts sand to coat the outside of the oven. this mixture is rated for 700 degrees. I doubt your fire pit will get near this level of heat. All that considered, It is an excellent material and it is expensive.
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I don't recommend putting the grid on top of the floor. It is designed to radiate through cement and so probably gets fairly hot.
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I am not sure. I dont think it can be rated like typical insulation with an R rating. It is only about 1/4 inch thick but the reflective suface on both sides with the bubblewrap kind of middle stops all heat from coming through. Everywhere that is covered is cool. It works like my pool solar cover. Hope that helps
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It will provide some thermal insulation, laminate floor surface is not nearly as cold as the Linoleum in my kitchen or bathrooms. Can't quantify the value, but there is some difference.