has anyone tried holding one of these filters in front of a point and shoot digital camera? I'm trying to filter out glare from acrylic paint.
513954
I tried using mine in front of a CCTV camera to reduce glare from fluorescent bulbs. Didn't work. The lens is polorized fine, just didn't work for my application.
287475
I have had my camera out in bright sunlight, and I can see the shot no matter what's around me. In strong sunlight around highly reflective surfaces like snow, concrete, and sand you might get a glare. I sometimes have to compensate for glare by changing my angle of view of the camera's back (that is, I have to move my head a little to see) or shading it with my hand. But given this one caveat, it's fine to see.
1620973
I used this filter to photograph the partial solar eclipse on 10/23/2014, see my pictures in the reviews of this filter. I found the filter worked well when shooting through the clouds but it was not dark enough when the sky was cloudless. I will try stacking 2 of these filters for future use. When shooting the Sun with this filter DO NOT LOOK THROUGH THE VIEWFINDER!!! Though dark this filter does not block any of the IR light that will burn your retinas. You must use the live view screen for composition.
1579969
my experience with this filter and lacquer paint is not good. you will need a cartridge filter w/charcoal to be effective against any higher concentrations of paint vapors.
869030
Takes a standard 77mm UV filter. Not sure if it creeps into the image. I can check.
485483
Yes it does. I would never consider using a non-multi-coated filter on a digital camera. The reason is simple. The sensor has a flat glass protecting it (called a low-pass filter - LPF). Some light will bounce off the LPF and head out the lens. Since lens elements are multi-coated and curved, very little light will reflect back to the sensor. But since the front filter IS flat, you can get a lot of light bouncing back. If you use a non-coated, or single-coated filter, you get a lot of light reflected back into the sensor. This shows up as a loss of contrast (veiling flair) or as ghosts and hot spots. Multi-coated filters are designed to reduce this effect, but cannot eliminate it. This is a real problem when you shoot into a light source. When shooing into a light, ANY filter will degrade the image. Multi-coated filters are much better, though.
2251693
You can get a P89 thread adaptor at www.nextphoto.net. Works loke a charm. I used the 52 mm adaptor. then you get a standard UV filter. T. Preston
30421
You should probably call the manufacturer. A quick search of Adorama and B&H; does not reveal the answer (both sites carry this filter).
558032
Probably a reasonable thing to do use a UV filter for haze. With the G10 (like most point and shoots without a lens thread) you will require an extension tube to fit onto the bayonet fitting surrounding the lens. I intend to include a PL filter which will greatly enhance sky and water. In order to replace the camera in its case this fitting will have to be removed each time.I didn't write this - someone else did under my name. Perhaps the whole discussion business is a sham to sell more gear!
620883
I do not see where there is a large difference in multi-coatings "specifically for digital" as opposed to film. They can be designed slightly differently in color temp. etc. due to the way a digital/electronic sensor "reads" light; but filter coatings that are designed to reduce glare and stray light are going to do that for your OPTICS, and can help whether your recording mechanism is digital (electronic sensor) or chemical (film). These should be fine for your digital cameras.
1758796
FWIW, mine is usable only for general composition purposes. Forget about focusing, or even really seeing what you're shooting with it. I actually put mine away the day it arrived from amazon and didn't touch it again for probably a year, and figured I should have simply returned it. But since then I've come to terms with what it can and can't do, and put it on in the sunshine when I can't see the screen, and use it just for positioning large objects in the composition.
1620975
I would use a solar filter instead. See http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html for more information.
1587356
Yes you can, it's called stacking, but why would you want to? If your going for some sort of in camera effect then the effect that you get would depend on a variety of situations like, the order in which you stack the filters and the type of lighting your shooting in. Keep in mind that when you stack filters you lose resolution and light. I know of occasions where a polarizer and a fld are staked in order to correct for fluorescent lights and blueing of the sky, so to speak. I hope this helps.
1099051
I don't know that it th correct way to use them, but first remember that the are meant to be samples. It is serendipitous that they happen to fit in front of a flash or very small diameter lens. I cut them out carefully with an exacto knife. When not needed, I keep those loose filters in my flash case. A new book of filters costs $12 or less and this pack of filters can last a careful user many months.
334179
UV filter is pretty much just a lens protector. And I agree with Austin, get a circular polarizer. Also a ND filter is great for water shots, it'll let you have a longer shutter to get that milky look to the water.
846380
Please be noticed that this kind of Lens filters is intended to protect your valuable camera lens against scratches and similar physical damage. Considering this, I don't think this filter may work as a Water-Resistant protection. Therefore, if you plan to use your digital camera pretty close to liquids/humid weather conditions (rain, waterfalls, fountains, etc.) the best protection you may get is using a camera rain cover.
81836
What kind of effect are you looking for? These filters are not designed to make big changes in color, they are to make blues a little bluer, greens a little greener and so on. As an example, if the sky is a lite blue , the 1/2 blue filter can be set to make the sky a slightly more blue. The "UV" filter removes some glare when used in direct sun light, Fluorescent lighting tends to change the color temperature and not in a good way, the use of the "FLD" filter can make the lighting look more like Tungsten lighting. The "CPL" filter is maybe the hardest filter to use, it is hard to see the difference that rotating the dial makes. The "CPL" filter is a "Polarizing" filter, fishermen use "Polarizing Sunglasses to be able to see in to the water and see the fish. The "CPL" filter helps in high glare places like looking thru a window in direct sun light. To see how it works, go to a river or lake and hold the filter up to one eye with one hand and rotate the dial with the other while looking into the water. The star filters require sharp/ strong points of light try setting up Xmas lights around a window or door and view it thru the filter, the number stands for the number of arms that extend out. (star-4 = four arms/ lines, star-6 =6, star-8 =8) The main thing to remember is that the view finder and or monitor on todays digital cameras are small and it is difficult to see the changes these filters make, I use a 26" HD high definition (at least 1080p) monitor using a HDMI cable thru the video out on my Canon Rebel T4i Camera. I hope this helps.