I have leftover product , loved the finished results, Has anyone used this on wood/faux wood (mdf)?? I want to use it on a tabletop.
491692
I'm pretty sure it would work! I have wood on the sides of my counertops and table top and it worked jus fine. It would probably work best if it's sanded and as smooth as possible otherwise you'll have the "texture" of the MDF - good luck!
491693
My boyfriend made my counter-tops out of thick plywood, sanded them smooth, used a wood sealant on them and then started with the black base coat. They look amazing, so yes it can be done. He used the wood sealant product to insure no oils from the wood seeped out.
942428
Yes! I have used this product for years. I also use it on my good wood tables and it has never damaged anything comes right off and can be reused over and over. It comes on handy to keep the grand kids from knocking things over.
748071
Steven, I used an old T-shirt, rubbed the first three applications in pretty robustly. I have a total, I believe, of 5 coats on now and it's a luxurious finish, soft to the touch and the two times I've used it, it cleaned up very nicely. My table/cart with the butcher block top is new so those are the only apps I've given it thusfar.I like it a lot!Ed Blum
2037957
Keep in mind that this is a cutting board product. That said, I tried it on an antique chair I have thinking wood is wood. It is an all wood chair. The final result was amazing. The chair came to life. It didn't change the color of the wood but it did give it a low grade rich shine. This is mineral oil with a wax for protection. I took a lot of time buffing the chair to make sure there was no "slickness" remaining. Again I stress that this is not the intended use of this product. I tested an area of the chair first because I didn't want to ruin my chair.
308068
It is not real wood. I imagine if you research how to refinish MDF you could repaint it.
949329
I used three coats on a 4x8' piece of primed plywood and still had some, maybe a third of a can, left over. I had to thin the paint before the last coat with an ounce of water, to make sure it went on smoothly. I used it for a ping-pong table, and it's held up well. You are probably going to want to use two coats at least. My guess is you could just make it stretch. Sand lightly and dust between coats.
1937071
I have used the minwax on walnut, and it works well. I have used many finishes over Watco Danish Oil and they all adhere and work fine. I can't say for sure, but if it was mine I would apply it over the Danish Oil confidently. Both finishes are oil based. I used the finish, by the way, on walnut bathroom cabinets I made - it holds up really well to moisture and they look great. Just make sure the Danish Oil has dried completely.
1408999
I don't know, I've only painted it. I like the product a lot. You might try it out on some scrap wood and see how it does. You can always use it on something else if it does look good stained.
1955819
I would imagine that it would hold up to the type of moisture in mixed media projects. I use to attach all sorts of things to cardstock but, given its intense holding power, I think it would hold chipboard to MDF. I have used it to hold photos to metal with good results.
401676
I don't know what you are using it for, but check into using Tung oil? I know a maker of beautiful picnic tables and I believe he uses pure Tung oil, or Minwax Tung oil with additives.Randy
1408998
I have not used it on antique furniture but the compound has wood fibers in it which should take a water-based wood dye in order to make it blend with the original finish. On antique furniture I either replace the wood in kind or use burn-in stick shellac to fill small holes and cracks. This is a wonderful product and performs as advertised. I used it to restore fretwork on an 1892 Queen Ann house with excellent results. Of course I painted over the repairs which now cannot be seen. For painted antique furniture this would be excellent. By the way, it's final color when hardened is a light tan. I have not used it on antique furniture but the compound has wood fibers in it which should take a water-based wood dye in order to make it blend with the original finish. On antique furniture I either replace the wood in kind or use burn-in stick shellac to fill small holes and cracks. This is a wonderful product and performs as advertised. I used it to restore fretwork on an 1892 Queen Ann house with excellent results. Of course I painted over the repairs which now cannot be seen. For painted antique furniture this would be excellent. By the way, it's final color when hardened is a light... » Read More I have not used it on antique furniture but the compound has wood fibers in it which should take a water-based wood dye in order to make it blend with the original finish. On antique furniture I either replace the wood in kind or use burn-in stick shellac to fill small holes and cracks. This is a wonderful product and performs as advertised. I used it to restore fretwork on an 1892 Queen Ann house with excellent results. Of course I painted over the repairs which now cannot be seen. For painted antique furniture this would be excellent. By the way, it's final color when hardened is a light tan. « Show Less
648490
Hopefully you would have better luck than I did. First results were fantastic. As winter progressed it started to bubble up....now it is peeling off. Very upset....now they tell you to sand your wood before using the product. If it is a new deck I would not use it....good luck.
1476920
I never use furniture polish on the Rafferty Table, Jane. Sometimes I may use a very slighly damp tee shirt type rag. I have these table a little over a year, and found that this works well.
1858824
I have not used it in this way- I use it to mold and replace victorian decorative woodwork. I suggest going to their website (google product name) or doing a search of YouTube videos for information from people with experience with decks.
1036516
I would think so. It does have adhesive backing. I would not try it on mdf or particle board tho.. We did use it on plastic and metal. I hope this helps out.
87135
I've used it many times over varnished wood, and had very good results. Most people, these days, seem to skip the middle steps of sanding and wiping down, and are pleased enough with the results. I prefer to do it old school and reap the benefits. Even 1-2-3 will adhere better if you break the gloss, first. Your end results are only as good as your preparation. If the chair is old, it may be shellac and not actually varnish. Zinsser also makes a shellac-based product called B-I-N. Both work really well.
1107546
I finished a table I built two years ago, fished with Danish oil then used arm r seal satin. It looks great after two years. It isn't shiny at all but very durable. Use at least three coats ( I did 7 ) with very light wet sanding with 600 grit after the 2 nd coat and between each successive coat. I used a staining pad to apply and it was one of the easiest finishes I've ever used