I nee to cut a curve on some 4" thick oak braces, could this saw handle the task?
576558
Get an after market blade, and you should have no problem with 4" oak. The blade that came with the saw was not the greatest. I picked up a new 1/4 inch & 1/2 inch for like $15 bucks... cutting is night and day compared to the stack blade.
576559
Yes,but, you need to be sure that you are using blade that will cut the radius of your desired curve and cut very slowly. You can do it
576560
It depends on your blade selection, your set up, and your skill level. I highly recommend you view a 35 minute you tube video entitle Bandsaw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass. It explains a lot of things and clears up a couple misconceptions about bandsaws. Then, do your research on blade selection (especially where blade width vs. curve radius is concerned). Finally, plan to take it slow. Don't force the cut. Let the blade establish your feed rate. With the right blade (probably a new 2-3 TPI) the saw has the power to do the job
1661149
Don't know if the saw will work or not. We like the job it does on our log projects. However, I would think you would need a metal cutting blade to cut aluminum.
1274327
This would not be my tool of choice for making the type of cut you describe, although, in an emergency you might be able to rig something up that would be servicable. A circular saw would definitely be preferable especially in terms of smoothness.
1761226
That would depend on how thick the curbing is. This blade is designed to fit onto a 4.5" die grinder tool, and not a standard power saw. You should not substitute this blade into the wrong type of saw as it will not spin at the speed in which it was designed to do.
710156
Probably not; the saw body is not svelte. The cut would be canted down toward the end of the blade. Best to just cut it level 1" off the deck, then use a grinder to get flush.
958992
No, the saw doesn't have particularly good control when cutting flat surfaces, particularly when the blade begins to dull. I would not recommend this saw for precision cutting.
2251591
As tempting as it might be, I would not recommend it. If you can get it mounted, the blade may extend below the deck of the saw. Also, you have to make sure the arbor diameter is correct 3/4" in this case. Most 4 1/2" blades have a much smaller hole in the center for proper alignment on the saw. They probably do that to prevent you from mounting blades on the wrong type of saw.The 4 3/8" is fairly durable and I actually bought an extra one when i bought the saw. I changed the blade after putting down approximately 250 sq ft of laminate flooring. If you get in a pinch, they sell them at Lowes too. As tempting as it might be, I would not recommend it. If you can get it mounted, the blade may extend below the deck of the saw. Also, you have to make sure the arbor diameter is correct 3/4" in this case. Most 4 1/2" blades have a much smaller hole in the center for proper alignment on the saw. They probably do that to prevent you from mounting blades on the wrong type of saw.The 4 3/8" is fairly durable and I actually bought an extra one when i bought the saw. I changed the blade after putting down approximately 250 sq ft of laminate flooring. If you get in a pinch,... » Read More As tempting as it might be, I would not recommend it. If you can get it mounted, the blade may extend below the deck of the saw. Also, you have to make sure the arbor diameter is correct 3/4" in this case. Most 4 1/2" blades have a much smaller hole in the center for proper alignment on the saw. They probably do that to prevent you from mounting blades on the wrong type of saw.The 4 3/8" is fairly durable and I actually bought an extra one when i bought the saw. I changed the blade after putting down approximately 250 sq ft of laminate flooring. If you get in a pinch, they sell them at Lowes too. « Show Less
1764556
I highly doubt it, but if so it would take a long time to do so. But in defense of the saw, such cuts are not the intended purpose of this saw. This saw is intended for smaller cuts in tight spaces where boards need to be cut flush. For the cuts you are doing you should use either a table saw or a circular saw. Preferably the table saw.
2169147
Haven't tried but it will take very shallow cuts &lt; 1/64 in. The stock blades are very sharp don't know how they would hold up to oak end grain
354844
Not likely. It needs rigid resistance like any other saw. Not great for chopping anything that's already on the ground either. I've sawed down trees that were 8 inches across and hundreds and hundreds of dead branches off of trees. That's what this is designed for.
1137725
I only used it for poison oak with maybe 1/4" thickness at most. 1" would definitely be a struggle, better off with a pole saw for that....
2083863
I wouldn't recommend it. Though it may fit and function, the rather large diameter of the 'wheel' would cut down on the space available for cutting. Using it on an 8.5" saw, I doubt there would be enough blade left to cross-cut a 4x4 in a single pass. Though if you've never cut stock that large, then perhaps it won't matter.
2057386
Is not easy, sorry, including a lineal cut is hard. The saw don't cut with precision.
1761225
Yes, I have a curbing company and I use one like this on my 7 1/4" circular saw to cut 4"x6" concrete curbing.
1764558
I would not recommend this tool for the job....not enough power. Blade has a back on it so the angle of the cut would be too shallow. Use a skillsaw or table saw or band saw with infeed/outfeed table or rollers.
2055525
You could cut large curves. This is really designed for straight cuts. It is like a mini circular saw so cutting tight curves would bind the blade. Otherwise a great tool.
821391
I have cut through 4" square tubing 3/8 thick with no problem. Make sure the clamp is on good and tight - any slipping and it does a number on the blade. I have bought a new blade after hundreds of cuts but have yet to put it on. Great saw