Just took apart my current thermostat and I see 4 lines connected to it (2 red, 2 black). There are 3 wires in this relay...how should they connect?
602807
Wish I could help. I had my electrician install. We had 220V running to the location of the low voltage Nest. They ended up working great. Prob should contact an electrician. It was above my head, and I'm a fairly knowledgable GC. Good luck. Jeff
2035907
I just used the wires supplied from the unit itself. Simple 3 wire connection. There are no additional connections or additional wire needed. Simple instructions will show you where to connect them. Should you have any issues, please let me know. You will be very happy with this unit. I am. Ron, Mesa, AZPS remember to shut off A/C unit breaker before attempting to install.
1066010
This Thermostat takes 4 wires. Compare the wiring design of your current thermostat with the Honeywell. I had to run the 4th wire for my system which was the C wire.
422676
There should be 5 terminals on the control module, which connect to the thermostat. They are marked like "Y, W, R, G, C" stand for Yellow, White, Red, Green, and Common. I disconnected the "R" wire and connected the switch in between. The two wires you talked about might be the one went to the out door unit (24 V). Double check it by following it where it goes to. You can also check your thermostat two see how many wires are used.
2221042
Yes you should be able to connect the same wires to the same post on the thermostat. mine also came with directions. You should be fine.Good luck
1776464
I had to go look. There are two terminal blocks. One with 3 and one with 4. My system is wired thus: 3 Term- unused, green,yellow through resistor., 4 term - Black, red, unused, unused. I just diagramed the old one before removing it and placed the wires back on the same terminals. I don't have any other colored wires with this system. My guess is the 4 term block are + and - and the 3 term block are the outfeeds to the monitor/alarm panel. Hope that helps.
789121
Hi, this product is not the correct product for you. However, at your own risk, and the fan nor the wiring diagram not in front of me to check it. It is really hard to know what each wire is. Typically, the Red and white usually connect to the power, blue to the light (dimming is done usually through the remote receiver) at this point there is usually 1 more wire for the motor. You have 3 left that is because your fan reverses via the remote. You can buy the correct one that reverses on amazon or ebay or try to Google the wiring diagram. I wouldn't touch it unless I knew what was what. You can burn out the unit very easily or make a fire hazard or get hurt.
1889336
It worked for me. There are instructions about where to put the 2 wires. It's just a relay closure. But, when I asked Honeywell about it I got an answer from someone who apparently was clueless about electronics. But, I used it on a system with ~ 15 volts to the relay and it was fine. That was about 6 or 7 years ago. Now there are "millivolt" thermostats. Some systems have a very low voltage sent to the relay. I don't know if the (thermo)stat you're asking about will be used in in such a system. If so, better check. My system was very old. But, basically, yes, only two wires are needed.
98784
These units connect directly to the line voltage.. If your current thermostats only connect via romex type wire then these will work. If your current thermo has low voltage wiring (thin wires) then they will not work.
1294740
For a WiFi thermostat, the 24v pair of wires connect to C and RH (or R) according to this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a_f2_iAW1U
1066009
I bought the thermostat today, and found out that my original setup had only four wires; missing C wire. But Honeywell have a video showing you how to substitute G wire for C wire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F05lIaNTMB4 Basically, G wire is for operating Fan only mode (no heat / cooling). You loose the ability to use FAN only to power this thing. You have to change wire on the back plate as well as in the A/C-Heater. I'm not very skilled, but I was able to do it, just following the video.
1572518
You should have two running from the panel to the box, and two from the box to the heater...Do you know if you have 220 or 110 power? OR are you saying you only have 2 wires in the box total??I need more info...
1201133
Mine is hooked up as Heat only So I only have two wires as well. If yours is the same you would hook up to C and Rc. After you do that go to where your relay for the circulator is and make sure it is not chattering (rapidly opening and closing). Good luck
90467
Hi Sheldon, It was very easy to replace. The directions are clear and easy to follow. Just determine what type of system you, look at the directions and follow. The terminals an the new thermostat are labeled for wire color. There is one "jumper" on the new thermostat that you may or may not need depending on the system you have. I did not need the jumper, so I removed it ... easy peasy.
398608
I know this is an old question, but two people answered Yes and that is not correct. I bought two of these units (for a multi-unit property) and my thermostat wire bundle only had 2 wires- red and white. This thermostat requires a C (Common) wire for continuous power, else it will run off the batteries and they will die every two weeks. I had an electrician run a new line of 5 wire cable and pulled out the 2 wire run. If you buy this thermostat, you need 3 wires for heat only, or 5 wires if you have heat and a/c.. either way, you need a C wire for continuous power.
422678
I would connect it to "Y" thermostat wire which is normally yellow; this wire calls for the condenser (outside machine) to come on when thermostat calls for cool (cool and heat on heat pump condensers).
1883855
This is a basic programmable thermostat that runs on 4 wires. I'm not sure what you mean by the "plate (top cover)", but if you're replacing a thermostat that wires to the mounting bracket (most do these days) it's best to just replace the whole thing, even if it's the same model. slight variations in production of the thermostat could create a bad or non-existent connection, or at worst damage the new thermostat. Also, ask your landlord why he/she isn't replacing the thermostat especially if he/she was the one who damaged the old one.