Sigma 18-200 OS Focus Issues? Does anyone have any focus issues? I read in some forume with this lens having focus issues. Initially, I thought it was my hand shaking or slow shutter speed. But even on a tri pod, I am having a hard time getting the pictures to be sharp even shooting daylight. Sigma 18-200 OS Focus Issues? Does anyone have any focus issues? I read in some forume with this lens having focus issues. Initially, I thought it was my hand shaking or slow shutter speed. But... » Read More Sigma 18-200 OS Focus Issues? Does anyone have any focus issues? I read in some forume with this lens having focus issues. Initially, I thought it was my hand shaking or slow shutter speed. But even on a tri pod, I am having a hard time getting the pictures to be sharp even shooting daylight. « Show Less
606482
My shots are mostly very sharp, however, occasionally, this lens will just produce a clunker. However, I'm not sure its any worse than with some of the "L" series lenses that I've used, so I put it down to technology failure. I normally would attribute it to me, but there are times when I take a picture in noon daylight, standing still and its out of focus. That's almost impossible if you think about it.
606483
I have these lens and I cannot use the autofocus, only manual. It won't focus no matter at what range. So disappointed..
606484
I'm so glad there's something posted here - this is one of the lenses I'm considering getting my husband for Christmas. He has the Sigma 50-200mm lens right now and in my experience with it, it hasn't been too bad. Should he be happy with the 18-200?
101121
You might have a lemon. I have the 520 and has no problem with it. Images are sharp and good.I don't have a 200mm+ lens so I haven't tried that. I have tried up to 150mm without any problem.
526622
Hi There does not appear to be any lag. Hit the shutter button and you have it. By the way, I am a professional photographer and I owned the original RX100. Did not like it as I felt the lens and/or sensor was simply not sharp enough for my needs. I sold it after 3 months. The Mark 3 is fabulous and Sony has fixed the problems PLUS added an EVF. This camera lens/sensor combo is really sharp and I am delighted with it. It is my "carry around" always camera. Good luck and well wishes! - Phil Johannes
662611
I have not had exposure issues but I have had focus issues. Not really issues, as much as just not being happy with the focal range at all, or the autofocus system. If you are shooting auto I can see you having problems as the auto systems just do not seem to be up to par compared to other platforms
1761731
I just received my D800 a couple weeks ago. Almost all my images are out of focus, even with simple portraits. I haven't contacted Nikon yet because I'm attempting to return the camera.
830126
Yes, it does. I've contacted Sigma customer support regarding this issues and they assured that it's a "by-design" behavior and there is nothing to worry about. It's the OS lens elements causing the rattle noise. You can see that the noise stops when you engage OS (by half pressing shutter release). I also checked out a few other similar lenses at a local camera store and they all had the same noise. Mine is for Nikon though.
1417502
I found that I had not been pleased with the focus at times on my D7000. I purchased The SpyderLensCal and it confirmed on multiple lens's that it was backfocusing.. All lens's were in the back focus category... I am very pleased with the results... Waiting for nice weather to calibrate my Tamron 150-600 and i suspect it will be in the same category as the other lens's...
1047781
You mean autofocus doesn't move smoothly, can't autofocus easily and go back and forth or it does not even try to autofocus? Mine (On EOS 40D) does autofocus, it searches from close to farthest smoothly but it does not always autofocus easily, though I think the last one is due to lack of contrast or inability of the body rather than an error in the lens itself.
839579
I am having issues with auto focus inside and out. Inside it will occur on most settings and outside it happens a lot in manual when I am trying to shoot macros but it happens in other settings as well. Can't figure out if it's something I'm doing or if there is something wrong with this particular camera but it is becoming incredibly frustrating. Any thoughts?
585645
I think you are right here. I don't believe it is a lens problem as I have see this problem across a couple of lens. I did two things that seem to make a different, the first was I completely reset all the camera setting and second thing I did was up grade the camera fireware from version 1.0. 4. to version 1.0. 9. This seems to have made a difference.
1820637
Yeah, it doesn't affect the pictures at all you're right. Sometimes it's annoying when I'm trying to use my 50mm prime, as I have to manually focus that and the blurry line doesn't help.I called Nikon also and they said I could ship it to them and they would look at it. I'm slightly worried to do that because I'm afraid they'll do something to screw it up worse. I guess I can live with it. If you send yours in, could you let me know if they actually fix it by replying here?
131464
The reviews I have seen (the in-depth for real ones, not the ones on sales sites) talk about the P80's lens slowness while trying to take pictures. I'm sure it's not as slow as the old (3-4 years ago) digital cameras but evidently it is a glaring issue in certain light situations. I am a Nikon shooter for over 30 years and have D200 DSLR now which I am very happy with, but I bought a FZ28K for a trip to Paris and am so far very happy with it. The iA mode is really pretty amazing - great exposure in almost all situations.
142362
Has anyone received an official response from Canon on this issue? Specifically, the nature of the issue (hardware/software). I have the same problem. Autofocus outside of the widest zoom setting does not function. The camera lights up focus targets and beeps, but the focus is clearly wrong. The camera is NOT in macro mode.
142359
seems to be an epidemic. same problem no autofocus. if I use the zoom to get in focus then pics come out ok but not good.
1416554
I believe it is a faulty lens. My brother has a t3i and has had no such issue. You should try the lense on another camera before returning though.
871931
Sorry, I haven't had this problem. I think I remember it's best to focus from a normal angle to assure good focus zooming in. I presume you are also careful to center the image on the subject you want sharp. Ther might also be a setting to tell the camera how to handle close up shots. There may be levels orb types if selectivity possible. Depth of field is more critical in telephoto so it doesn't take much to throw it off. Sorry I don't have the camera or manual handy.
1186464
Night sky pictures can be tricky. You need a tripod to avoid camera shake because of the long exposure. Even pressing the shutter button will create enough shake to cause blurry results. I usually use the shutter delay to assure that the camera is very steady after I have pressed the button. Next you'll need to have the correct camera settings. If you haven't learned manual mode you'll need to learn that. First thing is, you'll want to set your lens for manual focus. Focus all the way out to infinity. The ideal settings for night sky and milky way shots is having a wide open aperture (the f/#). Forr your 18-55 that will be f/3.5. This allows the maximum light to enter your lens. Next you'll want to set your ISO. You'll want to go as high as you can without degrading the image with high ISO noise. With the t5 I would go any higher than 1600. Next you want to set your shutter speed. I shoot my milky way pictures at 30 sec exposures. If you keep your shutter open any longer than that, you'll start to get star trails. And shorter than that and you're losing potentiolal light. Next you want to zoom out as wide as you can go. The most important thing is the f/# the lower the better. Besides that, it will be a combination of ISO and shutter speed. I used the 10-18 f.4.5-5.6 lens and wasn't pleased with my results because the aperture doesn't open wider than f/4.5 the only advantage youd have with this lens is that you can zoom out to 10mm which is fun. I ended up returning my 10-18 lens and saved a little more money to get a lightly used Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. I'm blown away at the clarity of this lens. And the f/2.8 aperture let's in 2x as much light. I hope all of this helps you. Once you get that first successful night shot, you'll be addicted. Good luck