How do I separate parts attached with this? I have a failed peltier cooler attached to a heatsink that needs to go back to the manufacturer.
578751
It is difficult to remove cured thermal compound, but it can be done. Use 91% or higher rubbing/isopropyl alcohol to soften it up, and pry from the edges slowly with a non-metal tool. You may want to try twisting the cooler a bit too, that can soften it up and it may pop off when given enough torque. Once removed use the alcohol and lots of paper towels to clean things up.
578752
Its probably too late for you now, but epoxy with a thermally conductive filler is removed like any other epoxy. Formulators and packagers like EpoTek have guides. A short list includes; heat until soft (~130C), dissolve using chlorinated solvent (MC), dissolve using non-polar solvent (acetone, MEK Toluene etc), dissolve using sulfuric acid, hydrate until soft using boiling water or steam, use a large thermal difference across the bond line to stress and shear the bond line. Choose a method (or a combination) that won't destroy components you want to keep.
578753
Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed to never let loose.Joe Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed... » Read More Hi EtezadkhahMy guess (and only guess based on odor) that the underlying epoxy is Hysol. I Googled on Hysol and did not find any solvent listed. I did read the other replies and while I have some absolute alcohol on hand (used to desolve shellac to make varnish) it is not all that easy to buy, illegal to sell in the state of Florida, they fear someone would drink it! Oh well. You have a tough problem. You can keep Googling on Hysol maybe there is a solvent for it some where. Maybe you can try "super glue" solvent. Just possible that this epoxy is designed to never let loose.Joe « Show Less
578754
You don't separate parts attached with this. It is permanent and will usually destroy one of the two parts leaving the rest of it still epoxied to the other part. If the manufacturer did not instruct or allow the two parts to be epoxied together you should not have done that and have voided your warranty if one applied. In practically any case where cooling components might need or be allowed to be epoxied under warranty, the manufacturer would have done this themselves before the product left the factory. Sorry for your loss.
578755
One of the reviews said it doesn't stick well at low temperatures so you could try cooling it to below freezing temperatures and try taking it off
578756
I have not had do this , but from what I understand its not an easy job . I have used thermal adhesive in electric rc aircraft to adhere heat sinks to chips , that did not dislodge after a devastating crash . You might want to get in touch with the manufacturer . Sorry I couldn't do better !
578757
It is difficult to remove cured thermal compound, but it can be done. Use 91% or higher rubbing/isopropyl alcohol to soften it up, and pry from the edges slowly with a non-metal tool.You may want to try twisting the cooler a bit too, that can soften it up and it may pop off when given enough torque. Once removed use the alcohol and lots of paper towels to clean things up.
578758
Sorry wouldn't know. In the past when using a peltier cooler I would only use regular thermal paste.
578759
Use a soldering iron to heat it up and remove. I have used this technique several times. Be careful not to burn anything in the process ;)
964686
I wish I could help, but I no longer have the same watercooler. We have gotten a new one without faucets. Good luck!
953510
I simply drilled a small diameter hole into a 3-gal plastic bucket from a home improvement store, and slid the waterer in. There was a plastic nut that secured it from the inside. I assume it is the same for the cooler. Just remove the original cooler tap and slide the waterer in. I've had mine for two years and it works great. I'll buy another when mine ages.
956043
It can definitely be screwed into stock heatsink and case mounting. As to the question does iit include the two adapters you can attach via screws to "snap" it into place on some heatsinks? I can't completely remember, but I'm pretty sure it does. Double check if you don't have one laying around on an old heatsink you could swap in case. It's been a while since I unboxed it.
1203791
I've taken similar ones apart before, all you need is a long small Phillips screwdriver. I just hope you had better luck with yours than I did, I didn't use it for a few weeks after I got it and after about two days it started making such a racket it was a joke, after I let it run for a few hours it works fine but as soon as I have time it's coming apart for an overhaul.
1790534
It has a threaded pipe with a plastic nut that fastens on the pipe inside the cooler. It works very well.
2014952
Thankfully the thermal compound is not pre applied on the heatsink. It comes in a little plastic sleeve, seperatly. I would definitely apply the artic silver 5 compound instead of what comes with the heatsink. By the way this closed loop cooler is AWESOME. Lemme know if you have any other questions about it.
1760731
As I stated in my review I fastened a finned aluminum heatsink to the top of an RC's ectronic speed control for my offroad race truck. I still had a temp issue so I installed a cooling fan on the heatsik with only the ARCTIC LLUMINUM adhesive holding it on. You will need a sizable contact patch to fasten something down with it so if you are trying to fasten individual fins it may not work. I do think it will work if your fins are connected at the bottom to a main base-plate that you want to fasten to you cover. If you try it follow directions carefully and exactly remembering they recomend the two mating serfaces must very flat and you can't just glue around the edges and expect it to hold and transfer the heat. You must spread a thin layer over entire pc. to be attached and clamp down to squeeze out excess glue till dry! I hope this helped you out because this is the kind of OFF THE WALL stuff I specialize in and make my living on!!!! w
210577
I would have to take my cooler apart to do that, I did a little jury rigging to get mine to work
1672245
Mine did not. It looks like the place where that piece would be is removable, so if you could get your hands on another one you could switch it out, but I don't see that part listed on Cooler Master's website. I'm going to ask them if I can buy just that piece, because I'm NOT buying another whole top case for that, I suggest you do the same.
1827370
These heatsinks actually came with pressure sensitive adhesive thermal pads. just remove paper and press on
592090
The one I have came with a thermocouple rod and it need to go in the radiator, the rod should slide through the fins of the radiator. If you have a the version with the threaded thermocouple then the thermocouple need to be in direct contract with the coolant. This would be best of used as the coolant temp sensor.
772991
Yes, you do, unless your case has a hole or an aperture right behind the mother board's rear socket plate. You have to remove the rear socket plate to put a new one -included- in which the Thermaltake Cooler is going to be anchored
2203281
I'm sure with the right tools you can certainly separate these.unless you are wanting to remove the fans and use them as something other than a g-rated fan, I wouldn't recommend it. This product is clearly intended to be a dual fan installation. Given that, I can say that this fan is still working for me after more than a year of continuous operation.
1140511
http://site.coolerguys.com/Product_Images/instruction_CG_cabcool_cooler.pdf Hope this is helpful
1528195
You might need an extension for some wrenches so you can reach bolts that are a little far down. It was a simple process, it took us about 30minutes to get it installed. You might also want some WD-40 to help get things apart also rubber part that let's air into the stock airbox will be left in, there will be a 2nd hole in the medal bracket for it to go in. As far as I remember there was not any special tools. And when you go to change the coolant hose you might want a plastic bowl to catch it. There wasn't much coolant lost. We didn't use anything to catch it. I hope this helps you out. Please ask more questions if you need anymore help. You might need an extension for some wrenches so you can reach bolts that are a little far down. It was a simple process, it took us about 30minutes to get it installed. You might also want some WD-40 to help get things apart also rubber part that let's air into the stock airbox will be left in, there will be a 2nd hole in the medal bracket for it to go in. As far as I remember there was not any special tools. And when you go to change the coolant hose you might want a plastic bowl to catch it. There wasn't much coolant lost. We didn't use anything to catch it. I hope this helps you out.... » Read More You might need an extension for some wrenches so you can reach bolts that are a little far down. It was a simple process, it took us about 30minutes to get it installed. You might also want some WD-40 to help get things apart also rubber part that let's air into the stock airbox will be left in, there will be a 2nd hole in the medal bracket for it to go in. As far as I remember there was not any special tools. And when you go to change the coolant hose you might want a plastic bowl to catch it. There wasn't much coolant lost. We didn't use anything to catch it. I hope this helps you out. Please ask more questions if you need anymore help. « Show Less
1150711
In most cases a cpu replacement requires (minimally) to release the cooler/socket mount spring and lift the cooler away.With my system the release lever for the CPU socket is blocked by the cooler mount, so I have to remove that as well. This may not always be the case.I would plan on at least as much work to properly replace the cpu as it took to install the cooler initially. You should also clean the fan heatsink and put new cooling paste on the cpu/heatsink.Considering the importance of this procedure and the components involved never be in a hurry! No short cuts!