How thick is the part of the tool that contacts the end of the bolt of the ball joint? I have "very" little clearance on my 2002 Volvo V40 between the end of the bolt and the abs ring on the axle. The tool will probably have to be something like 3/8" on the contact point. How thick is the part of the tool that contacts the end of the bolt of the ball joint? I have "very" little clearance on my 2002 Volvo V40 between the end of the bolt and the abs ring on... » Read More How thick is the part of the tool that contacts the end of the bolt of the ball joint? I have "very" little clearance on my 2002 Volvo V40 between the end of the bolt and the abs ring on the axle. The tool will probably have to be something like 3/8" on the contact point. « Show Less
210758
The part that presses on the end of the bolt is 1/2" thick. If you can only fit 3/8", you can probably use an angle grinder to shave it down until it fits. As an alternative, if you're going to be replacing the ball joint, you can cut off some of the bolt end to get some more clearance.
799994
I bought this wheel a year ago, and it is made to accept a 5/8" diameter axel. There are other Model No's available to accept 3/4" axels. In the detailed descriptions, the ball bearing size description is really the inside diameter (ID) of the sleeve/bushing within the ball bearing that accepts the axel. I'd estimate that the actual ID is larger by about 0.020" (or 0.5mm), so the axel is not a press fit inside the bushing/bearing. This should more than answer your Q. Just find the part with the 3/4" ball bearing ID.
1953056
The answers you got are wrong. Those nuts WILL tighten all the way. There is a plastic "stopper" at one end of the threading in these nuts. This is so that they "grip" once fastened and don't come loose over time like normal nuts might. You will want to get a 17mm ratcheting wrench. Google "17mm Ratcheting Wrench." Use the ratchet side (the closed circle), not the open crescent side. With a little added pressure it will get the nut all the way on there easily and quickly. I just put mine together like this yesterday after wondering the same thing; why the nut wouldn't go on all the way. I just didn't have the right tool. The answers you got are wrong. Those nuts WILL tighten all the way. There is a plastic "stopper" at one end of the threading in these nuts. This is so that they "grip" once fastened and don't come loose over time like normal nuts might. You will want to get a 17mm ratcheting wrench. Google "17mm Ratcheting Wrench." Use the ratchet side (the closed circle), not the open crescent side. With a little added pressure it will get the nut all the way on there easily and quickly. I just put mine together like this yesterday after wondering the same thing; why the nut... » Read More The answers you got are wrong. Those nuts WILL tighten all the way. There is a plastic "stopper" at one end of the threading in these nuts. This is so that they "grip" once fastened and don't come loose over time like normal nuts might. You will want to get a 17mm ratcheting wrench. Google "17mm Ratcheting Wrench." Use the ratchet side (the closed circle), not the open crescent side. With a little added pressure it will get the nut all the way on there easily and quickly. I just put mine together like this yesterday after wondering the same thing; why the nut wouldn't go on all the way. I just didn't have the right tool. « Show Less
865601
The center of the hole IS about 1.5" from the end of the 1.25" shaft. The hole is about .5" in diameter. When I say "about" I mean I used a tape measure. Certainly within 1/16th of an inch. Perhaps you can grind the end off a bit if you need the distance to be shorter. Or if it's welds that keep the adapter from entering the hitch fully, perhaps chamfer the end.
1943673
Greetings: The only spec that I can find on that support is it is rated at 534N. If you can measure your old support both fully extended from the center of the end we can try to match up that way. Also do you know what the ball size is on yours. 10mm or 13mm. Thank You, Lou Fishman Lift Supports Depot .Com
1479403
ok there s something people forget to say, 1 sometimes in the rust, before oyou remove the bearing, there's a snap ring to remove, i seen some thar are pretty well hidden in the rust2 for every bearing job no matter what car, you need to clean the hole in wich you will insert the bearing, and clean it well, this will ensure propper installation and prevent from damaging the bearing, even if it is a pressfit, it should get in pretty easy, once the axle back in place, very important to torque to the exact spec, each bearing/car has a different spec
1268885
I've seen this same tool in several professional shops and the strongest I've been able to find. I saw my local garage use an impact wrench to drive the clamp and would recommend that to the 4 ft cheater pipe I used to get the ball joints pressed out of my Chevy.
325736
I ran a main trunk line in 4" ABS (sewer pipe--not the black plastic rigid dust collection pipe) from my garage to my basement work shop. between sections, I glued 4" to 3" ABS reducer bushings and connected the sections with the clear plastic tubing. The OD of the 3" ABS reducer fittings matches the ID of the 4" tubing. I ran braided copper ground wire inside the ABS, drilling 1/16 holes to route the wire around the blast gates and bolted 1 end to my dust collector and physically bolting all my machines as well. I primarily use the clear plastic tubing to see where I'm getting clogged, remove debris causing the clog and maintaining the blast gates. I recently purchased more tubing because I added more equipment I ran a main trunk line in 4" ABS (sewer pipe--not the black plastic rigid dust collection pipe) from my garage to my basement work shop. between sections, I glued 4" to 3" ABS reducer bushings and connected the sections with the clear plastic tubing. The OD of the 3" ABS reducer fittings matches the ID of the 4" tubing. I ran braided copper ground wire inside the ABS, drilling 1/16 holes to route the wire around the blast gates and bolted 1 end to my dust collector and physically bolting all my machines as well. I primarily use the clear plastic tubing to see where... » Read More I ran a main trunk line in 4" ABS (sewer pipe--not the black plastic rigid dust collection pipe) from my garage to my basement work shop. between sections, I glued 4" to 3" ABS reducer bushings and connected the sections with the clear plastic tubing. The OD of the 3" ABS reducer fittings matches the ID of the 4" tubing. I ran braided copper ground wire inside the ABS, drilling 1/16 holes to route the wire around the blast gates and bolted 1 end to my dust collector and physically bolting all my machines as well. I primarily use the clear plastic tubing to see where I'm getting clogged, remove debris causing the clog and maintaining the blast gates. I recently purchased more tubing because I added more equipment « Show Less
31771
I don't know the answer to this. However, what I do know is that this impact gun is very week and was not able to remove lug nuts on my car so I returned it. It is junk - save your money. Tool made in China. I would not recommend this to anyone to buy.
1842008
Sorry. Thanks for the heads up. If it is Porsche it is 19mm. I hope this helps.
689386
I have this tool and will try to answer your question. The "arms" pivot inward the whole way until thy touch, i believe. So you would be limited only by the size of the arms in the area where they would contact the hub, as to whether or not you could get clearance to get the arms over your bolts without hitting on anything. This is a pretty beefy unit, and designed for good sized hubs, so the physical size of the arms is what would limit you. Hope this makes at least a bit of sense.
1155166
I measured the tool. From the end of the bolt across the end of the other bolt hole. The distance is about three inches...
524884
The bolt that secures the rubber tip has about 1 1/2" of travel adjustment front to back. I have slid my bolt to the end of its slot, in order to have as much clearance as possible from the mounting bracket to the tip. My measurement from the mounting bracket to the center of the rubber tip is 2 5/8" . I hope this helps answer your question.
1661864
I believe its a 19, may even be a 17. Which is why the adapter is provided, most vehicles come with a 19mm or 22mm lug wrench standard. So unless you have a 17mm socket you use the socket with the kit. Also most impact sockets(cheap brands) are far too thick to even fit into the hole where the lug nut sits. Remember, about 90ft pounds to toghten, recheck in a few hundred miles.
1675844
3/8" is far more versatile than 1/2". 1/2" is more for really heavy duty work. The 3/8" version of this tool was powerful enough to remove the wheel hub bolts from my car, and those are notoriously difficult to remove.
1737945
I had to drill a hole into the plate that holds my wheel (forward of the axle). In order to attach it to the actual axle bolt, I was told I'd need to buy a whole new wheel with a longer axle. Drilling the hole was the best idea and has not compromised the integrity of the steel that holds the wheel in place. Now that I have that set up, its a very fast connect, disconnect. If I could attach a photo I would but I don't see where that's possible.
882553
It all depends on whether the mounting plate at the back of the ball-joint part is the same. There are at least two basic shapes for that plate; one has the square plate like mine. They also sell mounts with a more diamond-like shape. get that part right and you're fine so long as it's a one-inch ball on the end. Hope that helps.