What is the little bent wrench for? I see it fits the nut in the middle of the X. Is this how I lock the X in place? If so, how? I figured it out. The X was put together backwards. I took it apart with the wrench. Now I can lock it. Just had to look at...
585128
Not entirely sure what you are asking so Ill just go thru the basics. Ok so it comes with the allen wrench, which is used to attach the bottom legs, also it comes with the small wrench. that is to tighten the nut in the middle of the 'X' Section in case it comes loose at some point. To adjust the height of the stand, you pull the knob like piece towards you and it moves the locking pin out of the hole. then you can open or close the stand to get it to the height you desire. When it is at the height you want you release the pin and it snaps into one of the 6 holes that determine the height of the stand locking it in place. At times the screw and nut that holds the 'X' part together comes loose and you use the little wrench and screwdriver to tighten it, but this does not occur often. I hope this answers your question, if not please explain more as to what info you are looking to gain and ill try to answer. thanks!
422918
Sorry so late with this answer... I don't use this tool that often so I had to re-learn it.ANSWER: "Kind of"! You don't have to use the separate little wrench that is supplied. What you do have to do is..... there is a small round collar at the very end of the tool. You insert your bit, then unscrew this collar, slide it up, tighten the bit then slide the collar back to it original screwed in position. It is a little bit easier than using the supplied wrench.Hope this was of help and not too late.
2202914
I had to use a large wrench with my large socket wrench as a breaker bar type thing and gave it all I had. There are no nuts underneath, just the lone bolts. (Not trying to be smart but make sure you're turning the correct way, left)
1616448
You can tighten both of the hex bolts at each side to make it so that it stays in one place. It's going to get loose again if it moves alot and need to be tighten back up sooner or later.
1694648
I have had the same issue and I think it has to do with the torque of the fastener you are trying to remove, you have to break that initial torque on certain fasteners, bolts, screws etc., and then it will be fine. It is an inconvenience but I still like using the tool and still happy with my purchase.
1964879
I think the MAIN tool you need is a second set of hands. I tried to do it by myself and, although the bolts have a great self aligning feature built in, I managed to mess up the threads. Luckily, I had a tap and chased the threads and finished the job without further incident. Oh, all the tools you will also need is a Torx screw driver (commonly called a 'star' screw driver.) The size if I'm not mistaking is a T40. I used the T40 bit and a little 1/4" ratchet, since the screws were pretty tight, especially after being in there for 13 years. As you can see it took me much longer than most, so I suggest you get a second set of hands, for a 10-20 minute job. :-) I think the MAIN tool you need is a second set of hands. I tried to do it by myself and, although the bolts have a great self aligning feature built in, I managed to mess up the threads. Luckily, I had a tap and chased the threads and finished the job without further incident. Oh, all the tools you will also need is a Torx screw driver (commonly called a 'star' screw driver.) The size if I'm not mistaking is a T40. I used the T40 bit and a little 1/4" ratchet, since the screws were pretty tight, especially after being in there for 13 years. As you can see it took me... » Read More I think the MAIN tool you need is a second set of hands. I tried to do it by myself and, although the bolts have a great self aligning feature built in, I managed to mess up the threads. Luckily, I had a tap and chased the threads and finished the job without further incident. Oh, all the tools you will also need is a Torx screw driver (commonly called a 'star' screw driver.) The size if I'm not mistaking is a T40. I used the T40 bit and a little 1/4" ratchet, since the screws were pretty tight, especially after being in there for 13 years. As you can see it took me much longer than most, so I suggest you get a second set of hands, for a 10-20 minute job. :-) « Show Less
590474
Just looked: there are small hexagonal nuts on each side (not bolts), and they are inset so that you'd need a tiny socket head to turn them. I'd say they're screwed onto a long pin with a little thread at each end. However, it is possible that the thread goes the whole length of the pin, in which case you'd need to saw a length off in order to make the unit more narrow.Oh, and the nuts are around 5/16 " diameter.
1938705
Not us. You may try adding some lock-tite or some sort of thread lock compound. If that doesn't work, just replace the lock nut itself.
1587014
The wrench doesn't fit. I use needle-nose pliers and grab the shaft of the blade and then pry the pliers against the rim of the protective metal screen at a low point of it. Works like a charm. Pops out like nothing.
465094
The nuts have a nylon lock washer which makes them hard to screw on. Using an end wrench (and not a socket) is your best bet because there isn't much room around the nut. If the wrench seems really hard to turn then you might have the wrong nuts.
1760667
I didn't have any problems with mine, just used 2 crescent wrenches. Normal force will do it.
2278304
The wrench works fine, unless the lug nuts/bolts are over torqued, that is when you will ruin the wrench trying to loosen the lug nuts. You need to use a breaker bar first
179871
Notice the hex cap in the middle. that is a small wrench to adjust tension on the leg locking devises. I had one leg that was still a little loose and that wrench fixed it up just fine. Just pull it off the leg to use it. It has the added advantage of probably breaking if you try to over tighten the nut. I did have a problem with the swivel head. The portrait/landscape swivel bracket's knob to lock it tight allowed to still wiggle slightly no matter how hard the knob was tightened down. Talked to Lee at customer service and he sent me a new head immediately. Didn't even ask for the old head back. Excellent response, but I haven't received it yet to see if it had the same problem or not. It looks like a good product for the price but I wouldn't want to carry it very far. Good luck with it, Dan
2019232
I don't know what exactly it could be but, the OEM nut came off without having to work very hard so when I reinstalled the new sensor I just estimated how hard it was to get off. Basically just torqued it down to finger tight and then two and half turns which made it pretty darn snug. Haven't had any issues yet! Sorry I can't help more.
624256
I used a very small allen wrench and used a lot of pressure. I didn't have a correct tool. I just tried my best to keep the opposite end still to tighten the screws. Ultimately one of the screws got lost, and I ended up replacing it with a small bolt and screwed a nut on and added epoxy glue.
1880355
So after contacting mount-it customer support and trying. The hex bit that is in the part that lifts the arm needed to be tightened counter-clockwise. (not clockwise) and it just keeps tightening and doesn't seem to stop. Also there were parts on there that looked like you could put a quarter on and turn it but that was not the case. Anyway the arm lifting part nut turned counter-clockwise a lot. seems to stiffen the thing and give me more control. Im ight keep it now.
763719
They have the left pedal bolt threading reversed when it should be the right one. This causes the pedal bolts to "unwind" and loosen when pedaling forward. I called the customer service for fisher price / mattel and the guy said that if I followed the directions, it would have been fine. You don't need to be an engineer to know that a reverse-threaded left pedal bolt and a standard threaded right pedal bolt will cause both pedal bolts to unscrew under forward pedalling. I guess they hired a managers kid to be their quality control tech and/or design engineer. EASY FIX: After you call customer support to have them resend the bolts and pedals (no charge), go to Lowes, Home Depot, Northern Tool, Ace, etc. and get a high strength epoxy designed for metal to metal. I used Loctite Threadlocker 271 Red. Put the bolts through the pedals all the way. Then dab a little of the red glue on just the bolt threading. It's kinda runny, so be careful. Coat the outter 2/3 of the length of threading (from the tip inward 2/3 of the length, so that when you tighten it, there won't be any squeezed out to get on the plastic pedal). Now, do one pedal at a time and make sure you adhere to the R or L on the bolt head. While holding the outside of the pedal, keep the bolt head (non glued end) pushed in to fully expose the threading on the other end. Mate the bolt threading to the female threading on the crank and SLOWLY turn it BACKWARD. This backward pedalling motion will tighten the bolt (when, if correctly designed, should loosen them). When you feel the threads engage, continue to turn until you have no more finger space left on the bolt head. Then use a wide-head screwdriver to snug it completely. Repeat this with the other side. The glue sets in about 10 minutes, but I did it just after my son had gone to sleep to allow the full 10 hours for the glue to cure. Be sure to spin the pedals a few minutes after you apply it to make sure none of the glue is holding them. Hey Fisher Price, my resume's available if you want it! ;-)