With the Hardboard Masonite, I have heard about tempered and gesso for artwork. I use acrylics. .Do I need to prep or can I paint right on it?i
580987
You could just paint but the first coat will absorb into the wood and your painting won't be on the surface. I would do either one coat of gesso first or and all over coat of acrylic first.
684603
I used matted paint but it was a flat wall... Not textured. It was fairly easy to adhere using the tool supplied, a though i did have to go back and fix it a few times because it would bubble upon settling. It took some time but stuck. I actually tried using some indirect heat from a blow dryer too when I first did it. Not really sure if that helped.
2241655
I am not sure what other people use, but I bake it, sand it, and spray it with Krylon clear acrylic spray. I believe that you can paint it with latex paints. I think you could find some good information on Utube and search Scupty. Another good idea is to do a Google search under the type of craft you are doing, or under the type of material you are using. Good luck. Things will probably be fine no matter what you use. I avoid any oil based paints because of unknown or bad chemical reactions with the clay.
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The finish is grey. However, the entire time I was applying each coat it appeared a shade of brown. It was not until it was completely dry & sealed that it really looked grey. You can add pigment if you want a certain color. But you have to also put in some other additive. You would have to research it. I love my results. It is beautiful. I will say I did very little sanding. I fell in love with the texture. Personally, I would not put it over the ceramic tile. Just bust off the tile then start your project. If there is a particle board or other hard surface under the tile use that as your base. The base does not have to be perfect. The finish is grey. However, the entire time I was applying each coat it appeared a shade of brown. It was not until it was completely dry & sealed that it really looked grey. You can add pigment if you want a certain color. But you have to also put in some other additive. You would have to research it. I love my results. It is beautiful. I will say I did very little sanding. I fell in love with the texture. Personally, I would not put it over the ceramic tile. Just bust off the tile then start your project. If there is a particle board or other hard surface under the tile use that as... » Read More The finish is grey. However, the entire time I was applying each coat it appeared a shade of brown. It was not until it was completely dry & sealed that it really looked grey. You can add pigment if you want a certain color. But you have to also put in some other additive. You would have to research it. I love my results. It is beautiful. I will say I did very little sanding. I fell in love with the texture. Personally, I would not put it over the ceramic tile. Just bust off the tile then start your project. If there is a particle board or other hard surface under the tile use that as your base. The base does not have to be perfect. « Show Less
1349389
I think Bondo Glass is to difficult to work into wood. It is dries very hard and hard to sand, you might end up damaging to wood around it.
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I own/use the paintshaver pro and the metabo. I preferred the metabo and my crew of workers used to argue who got to use it. The paintshaver pro is aggressive and will gouge the woodwork. The metabo on any setting never gouged. They strip equally fast, the metabo area needs less prep before paint in my experience. I suggest buying an extra set of blades for either one. Hitting hidden nails dulls them and I've learned the hard way and had to order them and wait for delivery. If I wouldve known i would have bought 2 metabos instead of one paintshaver pro. Oh and also the vaccume you hook it up to makes a big difference also. Hope this review helps your anticipation I own/use the paintshaver pro and the metabo. I preferred the metabo and my crew of workers used to argue who got to use it. The paintshaver pro is aggressive and will gouge the woodwork. The metabo on any setting never gouged. They strip equally fast, the metabo area needs less prep before paint in my experience. I suggest buying an extra set of blades for either one. Hitting hidden nails dulls them and I've learned the hard way and had to order them and wait for delivery. If I wouldve known i would have bought 2 metabos instead of one paintshaver pro. Oh and also the vaccume you hook it... » Read More I own/use the paintshaver pro and the metabo. I preferred the metabo and my crew of workers used to argue who got to use it. The paintshaver pro is aggressive and will gouge the woodwork. The metabo on any setting never gouged. They strip equally fast, the metabo area needs less prep before paint in my experience. I suggest buying an extra set of blades for either one. Hitting hidden nails dulls them and I've learned the hard way and had to order them and wait for delivery. If I wouldve known i would have bought 2 metabos instead of one paintshaver pro. Oh and also the vaccume you hook it up to makes a big difference also. Hope this review helps your anticipation « Show Less
1428314
Any normal model glue, such as Testors or Tamaiya, should be fine. You could either paint it with either enamel or acrylic model/hobby paints. (I think acrylic gives a better look for something like this, but that's just personal preference.) Colors can either be those suggested (can't recall if it lists colors on the box or only in the instructions, which I don't have on hand) or you could look at photos or paintings of Viking craft and see if there's an alternate paint scheme that is more appealing. Hope that helps--and hope the person getting this has fun with it!
1984028
You can always use oil over gesso or acrylic. Just not acrylic or gesso over oil. I hope that helps. :)
979809
What kind paint r u talking about.To me it looks like acetone.if u need like really strong stuff,get some paint thinner.
1256100
I'm wondering if you coat with Water Seal before or after assembly. I want to be sure it gets assembled correctly before I do anything to it (in case of needing to return product) but I don't really want to take it back apart to water seal. I guess I answered my own question, but it would be great if any experts out there could offer some advice. The wood smells great!
106569
I used a primer first just becase I was priming the rest of the room. I don't see any problem with just painting over it. It is vinyl and heavy enough paper to not have any problems.
792486
Yes, but I would definitely use chalk paint to paint over it. Therefore no prep at all, I prefer Annie Sloan paint and seal with minwax paste wax.
1930234
Smooth would be best... My walls are concrete so they are not as smooth as a Sheetrock wall but mine stick just fine... If your walls are very bumpy with sharp bumps then I would not suggest this... If smooth textured bumps then you may get an okay result it will just take a bit of time to get the lettering to sit into all the high and lows of the texture... Hope this is helpful...
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Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a... » Read More Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. « Show Less
1718258
Dave here...I strongly suggest purchasing your standard teak oil foud at your local Home Depot/local hardware store. It not only enriches the beauty of the wood, but will assist in keeping your wood tiles from weathering up and drying out. For a space if about 10x10, I recommend buying 2 one pint containers, leaving you with some left on hand for futur touch ups. Apply liberally using a rag to rub in oil. Within 10 minutes of finishing application use another dry rag to rub off any excess oil to ensure that you won't end up with unevenly blotchy covered areas. Best of luck
761568
I agree with everything JenO stated. This product may activate the paint and smear it like thinner. I would only use it on raw wood. By far the best finish for counter tops.
150441
These bottles are the standard size bottles of acrylic paint you can obtain at Michaels or Hobby Lobby or Joanns. The stepping stone I did was a 7" diameter stone. I painted the front, back and side with the yellow patio paint. The plaster is porous, but I found 1 coat for the back of the stone was sufficient to seal the stepping stone, and the front I did two coats. The color is vibrant and the coverage is excellent on plaster of paris. I believe it would work well on wood, too. I still have 3/4 of a bottle left, and I was generous with my coats. So, depending on the porousness of your surface, these bottles of paint will give you enough to do a fairly large project, or two, or three or more. Good luck. Marty