Has anyone put a (calibrated) frequency monitor on this generator? My current generator (not this model) runs @ 63 HZ @ low load, which causes issues with my UPS's. I've seen similar comments on many others. I believe they overspeed them intentionally for load response time. I think the larger the generator, the less they have to do this overspeeding.Interestingly, under heavily resistive loads, my current generator frequency will drop to 61 Hz and the UPS's will begin using the power, but they keep switching back and forth since the generator doesn't have a large fly-wheel or inertia to keep the frequency stable. Has anyone put a (calibrated) frequency monitor on this generator? My current generator (not this model) runs @ 63 HZ @ low load, which causes issues with my UPS's. I've seen similar... » Read More Has anyone put a (calibrated) frequency monitor on this generator? My current generator (not this model) runs @ 63 HZ @ low load, which causes issues with my UPS's. I've seen similar comments on many others. I believe they overspeed them intentionally for load response time. I think the larger the generator, the less they have to do this overspeeding.Interestingly, under heavily resistive loads, my current generator frequency will drop to 61 Hz and the UPS's will begin using the power, but they keep switching back and forth since the generator doesn't have a large fly-wheel or inertia to keep the frequency stable. « Show Less
586968
When I received it and with a 1500 Watt load, mine was running about 62.0 Hz to 62.2 Hz at 122.5 VAC. There is a governor adjustment (a phillips head screw) located on the motor just above the recoil start housing. It's easily accessible from the same end where the choke control is located. I was able to adjust it so it is almost exactly 60 Hz, +/- about 0.1 Hz. The frequency being off is probably the largest problem when dealing with twitchy furnaces (mostly the variable-speed ones) and computer UPS systems, so this is a worthwhile adjustment to make.
586969
It should have a governor adjustment screw. My 5500 watt version of this generator does, and after adjusting it, I got it to run at 3600 RPM exactly, which translates into 59.9 to 60.1 Hz ALL THE TIME, with ANY normal load.Here's where the screw is: imageupper.com/i/?S0200010100011I13896654381023200To see the frequency, get a meter that measures frequency, such as a kill-a-watt power consumption meter.
586970
I have not checked the frequency. It powers the house (minus the hot water heater) just fine. I do not presently have an UPS.
586971
Using a Kill-a-Watt meter with WH7500E under a load of 1590 Watts (electric heater) I measured the following:Volts: 123.1Hz: 61.7 - 62.0Amps: ~13.0
586972
I see you are not sure on many issues while I could give you my opinion I think it best to contact Westinghouse directly the phone number direct is 18559443571 they have a great technical department also this is a good part of any company they have a corporate office right here in the good usa and stand by their product and that is what made me buy this generator with no hesitation hope this helps and good luck on you decision remember Westinghouse has been around for at least 60 years 7/24/ 2013 az
586973
I have not had concern to measure the frequency of the generator since it easily powers the house through the Reliance 10 circuit transfer switch. Westinghouse would be best to respond to your question, I do not have any ups's to test with the generator although I have heard some ups's are more sensitive to this issue than others.
1276514
I realize this is an old question, but maybe somebody else will still wonder (that doesn't already know, or maybe even have better information than I do). In any case..., I run my FM-65G mostly on solar (I use it mostly in/around or in transit to/from my trailer which has 1,200 watts (rated) worth of solar panels mounted on it - and which is the only electrical power my trailer has - I don't even own a (gas powered) generator and I regularly spend weeks camping `off grid'). Whynter will tell you one thing on their site, but I haven't found it to be especially accurate with its DC current requirements. According to my DC meter, when the compressor is on it generally takes about 6-7 amps (at 12 volts - I haven't tried running it on 24 volts, but supposedly it will, I'm a little leery to try it, even though the off grid solar on my house runs on a 24v battery bank so I easily could). Of course that is when the compressor is running, which it doesn't always, depending on the ambient temperature and the temperature the cooler/freezer is set to. In my experience so far, generally with daytime highs about 70-80 and nighttime lows in the 50's or so, and the temperature on the unit set at 37 degrees, it has averaged just over 0.5 amps per hour at night and just under 1.5 amps per hour during the day, for a typical total daytime average usage of about 24 amps (honestly, despite the inaccuracy in the information from Whynter, I'm impressed). If it's sunny enough, yes, an 80 watt panel probably will run it, barely, but there again is another variable - how much sun is there? Under the conditions I have run it, and based on my experience, 2 fully charged -6 volt golf cart batteries have a theoretical capacity of about 200+ amps which would theoretically run the cooler for over a week (probably overkill, at least for just running the cooler in the conditions that I have tried it so far). My AC meter reports similar, but probably slightly worse, performance (not including the (potential) inverter loss).
723372
For this question call tech support at HotMax.I had an interesting conversation with them about using power from a regular generator and the answer was don't use that power because of frequency fluctuations that will mess up the electronics inside the unit.
895006
Just as a car can't go from 0-60mph in a few seconds without a huge engine, anything with an electric motor has a "surge draw" to start the motor accelerating it up to speed in a couple seconds (including fridges, pumps, etc). That surge demands 3-4 times the normal power. I've tried plugging in a small AC fridge (that measures ~18 inches in all 3 dims with only 1 amp AC draw normally or 120 watts) into an inverter. It was a 400 watt inverter with 800 watt surge rating, yet it would go into the overload alarm instantly not even starting. I'd expect any pump to need more power than that and this units inverter according to the manual says "450 watt continuous, 600 watt for under 5 minutes and 900 watts max surge". So based on my trying a similar inverter on a small motor, I'd bet under a 5% chance this would work for you. I've even been reluctant to try running a typical fridge off of a 1200 watt generator because of that surge demand. Also, if going off of just this units battery which is under 30amp/hour, if you could run something like that it's battery will be drained in 20 minutes. So this is a real short term power source for such loads and won't keep your place from flooding all night or such.
1942433
I have this since Jan 2012 and I work fixing UPS, I have all the equipment to test how pure the sine wave is and let me tell you! I have put on my fluke dual input at the same time utility and this and I would say the output of this UPS is actually more clean then the actual utility I would take pictures if anyone wants too see both in comparison.
1758346
Honestly I'm mot sure. I did take apart the switch unit to see if there were posts to change the frequency. When I opened it I noticed the main board was a very cheaply made one materials wise. I would wager the seller intends low amp and voltage for the unit. Im not an electrician but I do know computers. Im basing my guess on personal observations.
757801
With a 7% (about 60-65 watts) load, I have approximately 314 minutes of run time. The link to APC's site that Raymond Scanlon posted will give you a pretty accurate view. If you need long run times for attached devices, you will have to buy more UPS units and decrease the load on each. However, if you have a whole house generator, you would typically only need a few minutes or less run time just to keep things going until the generator is on-line and the transfer switch has kicked in.
647242
It has been a while since I used mine, if you have a load attached and it remains zero, I'd say it is broken, as in DOA. Sometimes stuff happens in transport.And by the way, when I got and used it back in December '13, I was quite pleased with the performance. Perfect for working with the sensitive, low power circuits I was testing.
1754730
No one mentioned it but I suspect the THD (total harmonic distortion) is higher on the Generac than the Westinghouse. I called Generac about this and their response was obviously scripted because all they will tell you is that it is above 5% THD on the GP series and below 5% on the XP line (they were unable to release any R&D; info at all) whereas Westinghouse was very forthcoming with the info and actually verified the 9% THD as a true R&D; measurement.
829512
Really should have hit the "I don't know" button. I would assume that functionality would be dependent on what other demands are made on the generator at the same time. Asking a Generac engineer might be a better course of action. You may encounter situations similar to folks who vacation in RVs deal with where you need to turn off certain things to allow for running others. Hope I've helped
519660
I have had 2 of these in my home for over a year and I have never had a false alarm. I run the test about once a month and other than that I have never heard them. Sorry folks, you have either received bad units or you have dust or other particulates causing your problems. I am using the 120v version.
2053523
Not that I know of. Getting clear output data from Powerland was difficult. I do know for sure that the "quality" of electric produced by this generator is poor and fairly unstable. Most would call it "dirty." Whether it would be suitable to a situation with an inverter motor, I don't know. I do know that it is not suitable for sensitive (and even many "regular") electronic devices/appliances because of its variability and spikes.
1639956
I have 2 units and have to issues with neither of them...I use it for basic AC and DC power reading takes. I do get some insignificant reading when power on but when connecting to the power source for measurement works well and power reading are correct.I hope this helps....
2107287
I have one on a P2770FH that is not working very well. My OEM is rated at 14VDC and 3.5 amps. This power supply is rated for 3amps and my monitor turns off after less than an hour of use. I have to wait for a little while and then I can turn it on again. It maybe my monitor and not the power supply. I am going to order another power supply with higher amp rating and see if it will stay on.
1927598
That's what I did Ahmed. My country has no constant electricity either, besides in my home there's always this fluctuation in the current so I had to use an ups.
1617808
It should have a governor adjustment screw. My 5500 watt version of this generator does, and after adjusting it, I got it to run at 3600 RPM exactly, which translates into 59.9 to 60.1 Hz ALL THE TIME, with ANY normal load. Here's where the screw is: imageupper.com/i/?S0200010100011I13896654381023200 To see the frequency, get a meter that measures frequency, such as a kill-a-watt power consumption meter.
1365189
Hi robert,Sorry for the delay, I used a watt meter to see how much my system was using. I have a big CPU cooler and this graphic card and I was reading 300 or so watts at the wall receptacle. I lean the way of others. While you could probably get by for a while with your power supply, solid voltage = stability in the computer world. If your PS is always near its limit, you may run in a lot of issues. A PS is fairly cheap and easy to install. I have a seatronic 750 S series to give me room for expansion in the future but it may be an overkill. A good 650 would be just fine for sure.Regards Hi robert,Sorry for the delay, I used a watt meter to see how much my system was using. I have a big CPU cooler and this graphic card and I was reading 300 or so watts at the wall receptacle. I lean the way of others. While you could probably get by for a while with your power supply, solid voltage = stability in the computer world. If your PS is always near its limit, you may run in a lot of issues. A PS is fairly cheap and easy to install. I have a seatronic 750 S series to give me room for expansion in the future but it may be an overkill. A good 650 would be just fine for... » Read More Hi robert,Sorry for the delay, I used a watt meter to see how much my system was using. I have a big CPU cooler and this graphic card and I was reading 300 or so watts at the wall receptacle. I lean the way of others. While you could probably get by for a while with your power supply, solid voltage = stability in the computer world. If your PS is always near its limit, you may run in a lot of issues. A PS is fairly cheap and easy to install. I have a seatronic 750 S series to give me room for expansion in the future but it may be an overkill. A good 650 would be just fine for sure.Regards « Show Less