I just went to install the wall safe. I cut the sheetrock and lined up the safe in the cut out. The anchor screw holes on the left (hinge side) are 2 1/2" from the back of the box. The anchor screw holes are 1 3/4" from the back on the right (lock side). Can anybody tell me if their safe anchor screw holes are drilled in the same place or is my safe drilled wrong? I just went to install the wall safe. I cut the sheetrock and lined up the safe in the cut out. The anchor screw holes on the left (hinge side) are 2 1/2" from the back of the box. The anchor... » Read More I just went to install the wall safe. I cut the sheetrock and lined up the safe in the cut out. The anchor screw holes on the left (hinge side) are 2 1/2" from the back of the box. The anchor screw holes are 1 3/4" from the back on the right (lock side). Can anybody tell me if their safe anchor screw holes are drilled in the same place or is my safe drilled wrong? « Show Less
609868
Can't remember if holes were same or not but it worked. If sctews hit stud, does it really matter?
609869
I just checked mine and the anchor screw holes are the same as you described. This appears to be the way it is designed. Al
609870
You're good. I have 2 of these safes bought a few years apart. Both of mine are like that. The only diferences in my two are one the older one the combination plate is brass colored and the new one is silver colored and the knob on the older one has the words open and lock with an arrow. The new safe only has a black rubber knob. Cost cutting I guess but they are both the same case and lock. Good safe. Can hold 2 compact size guns and I can even squeeze an Eva dry moisture absorber in mine.
1509896
for the anchors that came with mine, 7/32" for dry, wall 1/4" for cinder block or concrete. The anchors are real cheap ones. If you have a problem with them, just get some better ones at at Home depot or Lowes, these should have drill bit size listed on package. the anchors should go in snuggly and flush to wall. You may need to tap them in lightly with hammer. (emphasis on "lightly")
171048
Sorry, but I didn't sink the anchors. I just drilled a tiny guide hole, and then screwed the screws into our plaster & lath walls with a screwdriver. It seems tight and secure.
1292308
It comes with bolts that you put through pre-drilled holes in the safe. My husband did not like their bolts, so he used different ones than those shipped. If the holes don't line up to your wall studs, then you can use heavy duty anchors in the wall. We mounted to wall and wood floor. It was actually pretty easy to do.
875101
as I remember there are only four holes for screws. However I would be easy to drill a hole in it. Remember this is not a really tough safe. I have it in a place that is hidden and almost impossible to access as well as about an inch into the wall. But is does the trick for me
2270542
I do not recommend that if the wall is sheet rock but it can be anchored to the floor the safe has predrilled holes on the back & bottom and comes with anchor bolts
2070020
there are holes in 4 corners, son in-law lined up the 2 on left w/stud, thought that he'd have to use molybolt for the other side, but there was a stud there as well. so it was pretty simple to screw into wall. even after loaded containers w/spices.... the magnets worked really well.
2238937
The holes for the mounting screws are in the back and the screws will go into the wall. Mine was mounted onto a wood surface so I did not have to use screw anchors which would be needed if mounted on wallboard. Two other things, if you use an electric driver you will need a longer phillips head bit (mine is mounted with the short loops downward, you'll need to see which way will make the longer loops level so there is no danger of the glasses sliding off) and secondly I twisted the heads off of the cheap screws that came with it so I believe it would be a good idea to buy a couple of better quality screws from your local hardware store. Otherwise it looks good and does the job. The holes for the mounting screws are in the back and the screws will go into the wall. Mine was mounted onto a wood surface so I did not have to use screw anchors which would be needed if mounted on wallboard. Two other things, if you use an electric driver you will need a longer phillips head bit (mine is mounted with the short loops downward, you'll need to see which way will make the longer loops level so there is no danger of the glasses sliding off) and secondly I twisted the heads off of the cheap screws that came with it so I believe it would be a good idea to buy a couple of better... » Read More The holes for the mounting screws are in the back and the screws will go into the wall. Mine was mounted onto a wood surface so I did not have to use screw anchors which would be needed if mounted on wallboard. Two other things, if you use an electric driver you will need a longer phillips head bit (mine is mounted with the short loops downward, you'll need to see which way will make the longer loops level so there is no danger of the glasses sliding off) and secondly I twisted the heads off of the cheap screws that came with it so I believe it would be a good idea to buy a couple of better quality screws from your local hardware store. Otherwise it looks good and does the job. « Show Less
1143207
The only way you can tell that for sure is when you locate the sheet rock screw or nail in the stud is use a very small (tiny) test probe or drill bit and test probe. You could find the alignment up and down from where you expect to make the anchor and straight line it..... I guess for most purposes the center of the stud is not that important..... just saying. You can fill the test holes easy if you use a very small probe.
2064913
There are two countersunk holes in each base-plate, meant to take #10 (or #12) flathead screws, with drywall anchors if necessary. If you don't want to drill holes in your wall, you could use other methods, depending on the total weight of the items you'd be hanging. Afraid I don't know what "Command Strips" are, so can't advise about those, one way or the other. If you do use the screws the bases were designed for, the racks will hold a great deal of weight: I hang three cast iron skillets, two Teflon® skillets and 3 or 4 miscll. utensils on just one of the Ikea racks I have, and it's perfectly stable. There are two countersunk holes in each base-plate, meant to take #10 (or #12) flathead screws, with drywall anchors if necessary. If you don't want to drill holes in your wall, you could use other methods, depending on the total weight of the items you'd be hanging. Afraid I don't know what "Command Strips" are, so can't advise about those, one way or the other. If you do use the screws the bases were designed for, the racks will hold a great deal of weight: I hang three cast iron skillets, two Teflon® skillets and 3 or 4 miscll. utensils on just one of the Ikea racks I have, and... » Read More There are two countersunk holes in each base-plate, meant to take #10 (or #12) flathead screws, with drywall anchors if necessary. If you don't want to drill holes in your wall, you could use other methods, depending on the total weight of the items you'd be hanging. Afraid I don't know what "Command Strips" are, so can't advise about those, one way or the other. If you do use the screws the bases were designed for, the racks will hold a great deal of weight: I hang three cast iron skillets, two Teflon® skillets and 3 or 4 miscll. utensils on just one of the Ikea racks I have, and it's perfectly stable. « Show Less
1493527
Mine has two holes, side by side that measure 1 3/4 inches across. You run the cable in one and out the other so you can lock the safe to the bed frame. This is not a high security safe, since it is plastic, but it will discourage someone who is just doing a quick grab.
2269339
I'm not sure I understand how you want to mount the safe but the pre-drilled holes are on the bottom. You can drill through the back of the safe without a lot of difficulty. I drilled two holes in mine in order to loop a very small cable through the back and then secured to the cable to another piece of furniture so if you steal my safe you have to take the bed with it. If you are thinking of mounting this on a wall with the door sticking straight out it may be possible but the weight of the safe may damage your wall. Keep in mind that the door is spring loaded too so opening and closing the door may eventually cause the screws/bolts to come loose. Hope this helps.
2184671
Just need a drill to make holes in the wall for the anchor mounts (I suppose you could twist / push a large phillips head screwdriver through a sheet rock wall if you were careful, but make sure it's not larger than the anchors), and a screwdriver to screw the screws in. Might want to put a level up too so it's not mounted crooked when you're done.FYI mine did not align with studs, so I used those special expanding sheet rock wall anchors
234099
I cut a hole in the sheetrock to fit it in so that it is flush to the wall. There are no holes on the back but it's very easy to just put a screw through it
505614
The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when opening and closing the door. I hate them... but hey, that's just me. The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when... » Read More The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when opening and closing the door. I hate them... but hey, that's just me. « Show Less
516061
Paul: You can shim it if you want, but for a 1/4" space I would just center the safe and use longer bolts (the ones that came with the safe are too short in my opinion. In my case I had a 24" on center space so I used 4x4 spacers. Even with that I had a 1/4" gap on each side. Using 3" bolts I bolted the safe in. Works great. Mark
901301
No pre-drilled holes in the safe. My safe came with 2 - 4" lug screws, 2 washers, and 2 masonry anchors. To anchor safe to the floor, one has to tip the safe on its side and drill holes through the bottom at two indentations on opposite sides of the safe, using a 7/16" , masonry bit. Then sit the safe upright and place it where you want to secure it to the floor, mark the floor (through the drilled holes), move the safe aside, drill into the floor using 9/32" bit for wood floor or a 3/4" masonry bit for masonry floor (then install the masonry anchor in each hole); in either case, drill holes 2 1/2" deep into the floor. Move the safe back over the holes; for wood floors, insert the screw through the washer, through the holes in the safe, and into the holes in the wood floor - tighten with a wrench. Do the same for masonry floors and tighten with a wrench. Hope this helps.