If I make a jam chuck (soft chuck) with this tap, does anyone know of any options for a #2 Morse taper into the tailstock that will hold it?
599394
I'm afraid that I don't really understand your question as the as the tapped chuck is attached to the headstock spindle and not the tailstock. For my purposes, I have made numerous small faceplates, jam chucks, and waste blocks for gluing small blocks for turning. The Beall Spindle Tap works fabulously and the homemade chucks hold securely to my lathe. I'll generally pull my tailstock up with a live center while I'm roughing blanks, just for a bit of security, but I haven't found the need for any special options for the tailstock as the work is held securely onto the headstock spindle. Perhaps somebody with more turning experience than I will understand your question better and be able to help more. I'm afraid that I don't really understand your question as the as the tapped chuck is attached to the headstock spindle and not the tailstock. For my purposes, I have made numerous small faceplates, jam chucks, and waste blocks for gluing small blocks for turning. The Beall Spindle Tap works fabulously and the homemade chucks hold securely to my lathe. I'll generally pull my tailstock up with a live center while I'm roughing blanks, just for a bit of security, but I haven't found the need for any special options for the tailstock as the work is held securely onto the headstock spindle.... » Read More I'm afraid that I don't really understand your question as the as the tapped chuck is attached to the headstock spindle and not the tailstock. For my purposes, I have made numerous small faceplates, jam chucks, and waste blocks for gluing small blocks for turning. The Beall Spindle Tap works fabulously and the homemade chucks hold securely to my lathe. I'll generally pull my tailstock up with a live center while I'm roughing blanks, just for a bit of security, but I haven't found the need for any special options for the tailstock as the work is held securely onto the headstock spindle. Perhaps somebody with more turning experience than I will understand your question better and be able to help more. « Show Less
599395
Reversing chuck adaptor for tailstock: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category;_Code=lathes-acc-tlstkadp
599396
I bought a MT2 shaft with a male 1X8 thread on the end. I'll have to do some digging to remember where I bought it. It is very handy and I have screwed a variety of things onto it, including my scroll chuck. I have screwed several different sizes of jam chucks onto this shaft installed in the tail stock and it works fine.
599397
I you use a tail stock MT2 that will make it dificult to turn the tap into a chucked work peice and a live center in the tail stock to hold the tap while turning it with a wrench works beat for me.
599398
Wouldn't you know it...as soon as I said I hadn't seen one, the first recommendation on my Amazon account is what I think you are looking for: PSI Woodworking Products LTCA18 Live Tailstock Chuck Adapter 1-Inch by 8TPI Male Thread Mounting to a 2 MTUnfortunately it is out of stock for now.
599399
Don't know the answer to the specific question you are asking, but I have the Nova live center and it comes with a screw center which would allow you to securely attach a jam chuck to the tailstock without using the spindle tap. I do have the spindle tap and it is a good product, but I think there are other ways of doing what you want to do.
599400
Sure, what you want is a TMI Reverse Chucking Alignment Adapter. It puts the threads on a morse taper so you can flip chucks around to the tailstock. Should not be hard to find. Craft Supplies carries them. About $30.BTW, this isn't for use while turning - it's just an alignment tool. It doesn't rotate. The threads would be in the wrong direction to use a chuck on the tailstock to turn. Just in case that's what you have in mind.
599401
I held mine in a drill chuck I bought at Harbor Freight for 10 or 12 bucks.
365716
As long as your MT tail stock insert has JT3 taper for the chuck head it should work fine. I bought one of these and a JT3/MT2 drill chuck arbor (http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D2744-MT2-JT3-Drill-Chuck/dp/B005W0U6K2/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y) for our lathe... has worked flawlessly.
548627
You need a smaller #1. Both ends have what people tell me are jacobs chuck that you tap out with a drift pin. I am very pleased with with lathe so far
433125
Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the purpose to drill thousands of holes (in wood) since I've had it, and if it suddenly died I'd probably just buy another of the same. Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the... » Read More Hi. I use several small wire twist bits, smallest is probably around a .041". I just checked and the chuck closes down to tight, so I expect it will securely hold even the smallest sizes. Only problem (if it could be considered a problem) is I need to snip off about 3/4" of the drill bit shank for the bit to fit as far up in the chuck as I need it to. The holes I drill are less than 1/4" deep so I need for most of the bit to fit up inside the chuck, but it's not a big deal to use a pair of stout diagonal pliers to cut them off. It's a cheaply made drill but has served the purpose to drill thousands of holes (in wood) since I've had it, and if it suddenly died I'd probably just buy another of the same. « Show Less
365717
It all depends if your drill press has a JT3 taper or a Morse 2 Taper. Most 1/2" drill presses have a Morse 2 taper so you will need a arbor that will fit the Morse 2 taper in your press to the JT3 taper in the chuck. Great chuck!The Arbor is a Woodstock 2744 Hope this helps you.
736183
Not sure which "bull barrel" taper that you have, but the factory hogue stocks with a sporter barrel channel will need additional inletting. I am not sure how well the rubber will stay on if you do this. However I am about to find out. I have the Dumoulin A2000 Action and a Duglas #3 sporter and Shilen #3 sporter. Good luck.
1333216
Check out the videos on You Tube. It is an awesome jig. The sacrificial fence has to be 3/4" thick 1x stock. I believe the manual says it can not be taller that 2.5"' so a 1x3 will work perfect. I still have to add one on my jig as I just got it.
1828519
I have the smaller 11-950 Type2 (8" drill press) and this chuck fits mine quite well. The original chuck on my press is marked "1/2 JT33", meaning it has a Jacobs Taper 33 spindle commonly used for drill chucks. I'm guessing your chuck is marked the same. This chuck will fit any tool with that taper. BTW - the original chuck on my press was trouble from the start. It was very hard to adjust. This chuck moves smoothly and adjusts easily. I wish Delta had used a better chuck.
587429
I have a 1993 version Marlin 60 (first two S/N digits are 07) and the ring that goes around the feed tube doesn't quite tighten enough. Even with the supplied shim. So, I have to figure a way to get it to tighten up a bit either with a thicker shim, or some other locking mechanism to keep the ring from sliding forward on the tube.
2230282
Well the spindle is unique, definitely not a Morse Taper. This is a made in China or made in India lathe, it has not replacement parts that can be bought. Most of the hardware is metric. The spindle comes with one drive center and one bowl clamp, when the drive center wears out throw lathe away. However the drive belt will wear out first! I like it because I am a Spindle Turner that needs 60 inches between centers and this lathe is easy to extend. However, I would not pay more than $110 for this lathe as it is cheaply made.
1449138
I've used this in 2 Milwaukee Drills a 30 year old 1/2 inch corded drill with a chuck key and a cordless M18 Fuel. In the corded drill it slipped when it hit a small root, I re-tightened the chuck and it went through and continued to drill another 8 holes without slipping. In the M18 fuel that does not have a chuck key it has never slipped 30+ holes. I would not worry about using Teflon tape. Doug
231993
The chuck is a taper fit and requires some patience to get it seated properly. It has "JT33" stamped into the side of it. Hope that helps answer your question. Although I have only used it for "light" work (I build replica black powder pistols), it is a great little unit-no complaints. Pat Gorman
2183447
I'm not positive, but I think that Delta uses a spindle adapter that goes from a Morse taper to the Jacobs 33. If that's the case, then yes... this chuck would fit. You might want to check that.
910945
The question is a bit unclear.The head stock has a #2 morse taper. The lathe comes with a #2 morse taper drive spur/center. It can use any #2 morse taper accessories.The drive spindle is also threaded to accept 1"-8 accessories. Most common 4 jaw chucks either come with 1"-8 threads, or an adapter, to mount on the spindle. I use a Barracuda, and many other brands will work.The head stock through-bore diameter is 5/8", I believe, but I don't think this is relevant to the question.Also, the tail stock is #2 morse taper, and there are lots of accessories to fit. The question is a bit unclear.The head stock has a #2 morse taper. The lathe comes with a #2 morse taper drive spur/center. It can use any #2 morse taper accessories.The drive spindle is also threaded to accept 1"-8 accessories. Most common 4 jaw chucks either come with 1"-8 threads, or an adapter, to mount on the spindle. I use a Barracuda, and many other brands will work.The head stock through-bore diameter is 5/8", I believe, but I don't think this is relevant to the question.Also, the tail stock is #2 morse taper, and there... » Read More The question is a bit unclear.The head stock has a #2 morse taper. The lathe comes with a #2 morse taper drive spur/center. It can use any #2 morse taper accessories.The drive spindle is also threaded to accept 1"-8 accessories. Most common 4 jaw chucks either come with 1"-8 threads, or an adapter, to mount on the spindle. I use a Barracuda, and many other brands will work.The head stock through-bore diameter is 5/8", I believe, but I don't think this is relevant to the question.Also, the tail stock is #2 morse taper, and there are lots of accessories to fit. « Show Less
534399
The 1" x 8 is 0.525 across the flats. Obviously, you will need one to open a bi more. I use my tap in. Wood lathe, meaning that the part is chucked and the head stock locked. The tap is set in position to start and the point of the tail stock pressed into the centering hole on the flats end of the tap. I then use an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the tap while advancing the tail stock to feed and keep pressure on the tap. This is a bit of a dance as my tail stock is 10 TPI and the tap is 8 TPI. JUST DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU DON't REALLY WANT A 1.250 x 8 TPI TAP!!
164114
The machine takes a #2 Morris taper - you can use practically any type chuck to it with an adapter. I bought a MT2/JT33 adapter so I could use the old Jacobs and collet chucks from my previous drill press. Check out Grizzly.com for ideas.
1987075
No, not this design. There is a saw cut notch at the end. The nut and bolt, when tightened, will compress that notch and apply pressure to the existing tail pipe. This design makes it specific to a diameter.