is this a good unit for my dune buggy dash? i need to keep an eye on the battery's volts and amps so i do not get stranded (12 volt/700 cranking amps)
580509
it will work but I would put in in some kind of casing as sand/dirt/mud/etc. can easily get into the circuitry from the back of the unit
580510
This meter works well but: you have to make sure you buy an 12 volt 100 amp meter . I neglected to check that and I received a 12 volt 1 (one) amp meter ( useless) for that much amperage you'll also need a shunt and from here you are on your own because your meter must match the shunt or nothing will work . Good luck .
580511
Rinoa Super-Genius on YouTube tell you all about this particular meter and how to get it to work property, hope that helps..
580512
I am quiet happy with mine, by sound of it you have the high amp one, that is good cheers Chris
580513
You will need to add a shunt for the amperage, but it should work. I would recommend encapsulating the back of the meter with clear epoxy to prevent damage from vibration.
1930583
I believe the statement is referring to the starter battery of your vehicle. You would not want to risk running your starter battery "dead" or too low, as you will no longer be able to start your vehicle -- this is not good, as you will be stranded at worst, or inconvenienced. If the car is running (as in a tripp down the road), it is fine to plug it in and use it while the engine is running. If you stop for 15 minutes or so, it should be fine, as long as your battery is in good working order. Most newer vehicles have a ignition powered 12 VDC socket, and will turn off when the vehicle is "off". This is not guaranteed, so use your best judgement and consult your owner's manual for details. I believe the statement is referring to the starter battery of your vehicle. You would not want to risk running your starter battery "dead" or too low, as you will no longer be able to start your vehicle -- this is not good, as you will be stranded at worst, or inconvenienced. If the car is running (as in a tripp down the road), it is fine to plug it in and use it while the engine is running. If you stop for 15 minutes or so, it should be fine, as long as your battery is in good working order. Most newer vehicles have a ignition powered 12 VDC socket, and will turn off when the... » Read More I believe the statement is referring to the starter battery of your vehicle. You would not want to risk running your starter battery "dead" or too low, as you will no longer be able to start your vehicle -- this is not good, as you will be stranded at worst, or inconvenienced. If the car is running (as in a tripp down the road), it is fine to plug it in and use it while the engine is running. If you stop for 15 minutes or so, it should be fine, as long as your battery is in good working order. Most newer vehicles have a ignition powered 12 VDC socket, and will turn off when the vehicle is "off". This is not guaranteed, so use your best judgement and consult your owner's manual for details. « Show Less
2185139
It's an awesome unit, I live in New Mexico and it gets really hot here sometimes,we do alot of summertime fishing while the wife stays in the camper with AC, TV and all the other Electronics one can think of. This little generator kicks butt, it's a little louder then the Honda but not by much. Definitely worth the money! Take care of it and it will take care of U. Hope this helps.
1913477
yes , they worked for me. mount under dash for weather protection. run 2 (12 ga.) wires 1 red and 1 black from battery to the junction blocks . run accessory wires to the blocks. use terminals or bare wires to make connections. you should be good to go.
626393
No, its more likely you battery and salt will effect the rest of your system. Don't get me wrong it will sound great but I'd recommend the purchase of a capacitor as well. One that is 50 to 100 farads. That can come later on though. When you upgrade your battery spend an extra 50-100 on a optima red top or even better a yellow top. This will be the starts of high quality budget build
2131333
Yes, it is good for your Honda. 750 mA is the power output. Means it can charge batteries more quickly.
2268218
Be sure the circuit (fuse) has the capacity to handle the load. I have an aux. battery in my van and charged from a Wagan Quick Jump Starter and it blew a 20a fuse after a couple of days of plugging it in. Be sure you isolate the aux battery in some way or your batteries will try to drain each other.
1488703
I guess if you know what to look for, you can try it. If your car battery is only showing 12 volts on any test device, it's probably not going to start your car. When I worked on my own vehicles and built hot rods, we always wanted between 13.5 and 14.4 volts for a full charge indication, with the engine not running. Car batteries have to pull a heavy load when starting a cold engine. That's why the "cold cranking amps" are shown on the sales shelf. If you really need to know about your car battery, I would not fool with this tester as a serious tool. I would be willing to bet, the 12 volt battery they mean on the test setting is your car alarm remote or wireless doorbell battery in the button module. I guess if you know what to look for, you can try it. If your car battery is only showing 12 volts on any test device, it's probably not going to start your car. When I worked on my own vehicles and built hot rods, we always wanted between 13.5 and 14.4 volts for a full charge indication, with the engine not running. Car batteries have to pull a heavy load when starting a cold engine. That's why the "cold cranking amps" are shown on the sales shelf. If you really need to know about your car battery, I would not fool with this tester as a serious tool. I would be willing to bet,... » Read More I guess if you know what to look for, you can try it. If your car battery is only showing 12 volts on any test device, it's probably not going to start your car. When I worked on my own vehicles and built hot rods, we always wanted between 13.5 and 14.4 volts for a full charge indication, with the engine not running. Car batteries have to pull a heavy load when starting a cold engine. That's why the "cold cranking amps" are shown on the sales shelf. If you really need to know about your car battery, I would not fool with this tester as a serious tool. I would be willing to bet, the 12 volt battery they mean on the test setting is your car alarm remote or wireless doorbell battery in the button module. « Show Less
1276863
I just threw a 12 volt car battery in the bed with the wing nut connectors. It should have a 50 amp inline. I have survived so far without it.
1403078
Yeah, just make sure you get the right battery. I'd suggest a more powerful troll though, low speed isn't going to do much for you on this one.
275790
Hello, J. Waldvogel! Could you recommend a better one for an average shade tree mechanic like me? I also need it to read the older OBD-I connector vehicles too. I have an old 1994 Chevy diesel truck that is showing a "Service Engine Soon" light. I would like to be able to connect to it and fix the problem. Thanks in advance! Lee
566518
Depends on what type of battery you have, Susan. Here is a direct quote from my owner's manual: "This system is designed to be used ONLY on vehicles with 12 volt DC battery system. Do NOT connect to a 6 volt or 24 volt battery system." The caps are mine to stress that this unit is only for 12 V systems. So far mine has worked flawlessly and I hope you have a 12 V battery so you can enjoy the same performance that I am. Good luck! Chuck
1563652
My ATV battery is 12V/10AH. Granted, that's double the size you want to charge, but if it's truly a 12V battery, it shouldn't matter as this is designed to charge 12V's. This product has kept my battery alive, connected to my bike, for the last six months. I don't have a charge controller. Once in a while I will check it with a voltmeter just to be sure - this solar charger keeps the battery between 12.8~13.0 volts. The amperage it puts out is very low. Normally I'm buying a new battery yearly and by the time it's six months old, it'll have trouble cranking my ATV motor. No problems at all here now... the bike kicks over first try. Hope that helps. My ATV battery is 12V/10AH. Granted, that's double the size you want to charge, but if it's truly a 12V battery, it shouldn't matter as this is designed to charge 12V's. This product has kept my battery alive, connected to my bike, for the last six months. I don't have a charge controller. Once in a while I will check it with a voltmeter just to be sure - this solar charger keeps the battery between 12.8~13.0 volts. The amperage it puts out is very low. Normally I'm buying a new battery yearly and by the time it's six months old, it'll have trouble cranking my ATV motor. No problems at all... » Read More My ATV battery is 12V/10AH. Granted, that's double the size you want to charge, but if it's truly a 12V battery, it shouldn't matter as this is designed to charge 12V's. This product has kept my battery alive, connected to my bike, for the last six months. I don't have a charge controller. Once in a while I will check it with a voltmeter just to be sure - this solar charger keeps the battery between 12.8~13.0 volts. The amperage it puts out is very low. Normally I'm buying a new battery yearly and by the time it's six months old, it'll have trouble cranking my ATV motor. No problems at all here now... the bike kicks over first try. Hope that helps. « Show Less
1264367
Check what kind of ignition system you have. Capacitive discharge (electronic) takes more ohms than points do so they may be too "hot". I would guess a 1985 Honda would be ok. The other issue is the size of the coils and where to put them.
1567565
BRAKE = Red, RUNNING = White, GROUND = Black. If your wires ended up a different color for whatever reason, use your battery to test them. Ground is most likely going to be black in most cases. Ground the unit and touch (one at a time) on the positive terminal and whichever one lights up the LED's brighter is your STOP/TURN, depending on the application you are using it for. The dimmer of the two will be your running lights. Hopefully this helped answer your questions. One last thing, if you do not feel comfortable going strait to your battery post, you can use an in-line fuse and the one that I had purchased in the past, the mounting arm snapped and the whole assembly went flying off! good luck!!! BRAKE = Red, RUNNING = White, GROUND = Black. If your wires ended up a different color for whatever reason, use your battery to test them. Ground is most likely going to be black in most cases. Ground the unit and touch (one at a time) on the positive terminal and whichever one lights up the LED's brighter is your STOP/TURN, depending on the application you are using it for. The dimmer of the two will be your running lights. Hopefully this helped answer your questions. One last thing, if you do not feel comfortable going strait to your battery post, you can use an in-line fuse and the one... » Read More BRAKE = Red, RUNNING = White, GROUND = Black. If your wires ended up a different color for whatever reason, use your battery to test them. Ground is most likely going to be black in most cases. Ground the unit and touch (one at a time) on the positive terminal and whichever one lights up the LED's brighter is your STOP/TURN, depending on the application you are using it for. The dimmer of the two will be your running lights. Hopefully this helped answer your questions. One last thing, if you do not feel comfortable going strait to your battery post, you can use an in-line fuse and the one that I had purchased in the past, the mounting arm snapped and the whole assembly went flying off! good luck!!! « Show Less
908750
This unit will work on any 12V lead acid type battery no matyter what it is in/on. If you don't drive the car often just hook up the alligator clips. If you store it get the cord that will tie to the battery and run it out under the hood of car and simply unplug when you want to drive the car.
253149
The motors that run the guages are shot. I bought a whole dash off eBay and mine works fine. Ford doesn't even make the motors anymore.