Anyone have a line on some good blade guides? Other than the DMT clamps, I'm just looking for a rubber block with a 20 degree angle I can set on the stones, guess I could just make one.
590163
Went to a class with Bob Kramer a couple weeks ago, he recommended 15 degrees and using a matcjbook as a reference. He would know.
2016571
Hello. I am really embarrassed. I didn't see anywhere that there was an unanswered question and here it is over 2 weeks later. Yes, still here. We're waiting on a die maker to finish making dies for our new upgraded stones. It still may be 4 or more weeks until we're restocked with the new cordierite 4-piece stones and hopefully no more than a week for the new 14.5" round stones (we're waiting on those for boxes). Sorry again for taking so long. I'll know in the future to go all the way in to this to look for unanswered questions. Joe
1175003
I use a 3 stone kit. I usually only use the medium and fine stones. I have been disappointed with my knife, it came dull, and the edge had been burned by the grinder. I sent it back thinking they would replace the blade, it came back still dull and grinder burned out near the the this time. My nephew bought one like mine and his has been awesome, maybe I just got a lemon.
630262
hi Ed, i'm pretty sure you would want to get a 5/16 grinding stone for your saw chain. i'm assuming you have something like a ms 260 class chainsaw.
1002112
Anyone have any idea of the metal allows used in the unit? Of course you don't mind so much what the main shaft is made up, but I'm curious what the blade itself is make of..
488414
My fiancee just had one of the knives break at the shank too. it scared the #$% out of her. We loved these knives. it was the 7-in. Edgy® Santoku Knife that broke. Edit: the support number is:furi support415 567 94408775679440
1948690
Bill, Guess the question is do you own this tool. If not, I would look at a cheap, but great, metal cutting tool from HF. Plenty of inexpensive metal cutting blades.If you have or need this particular tool and cannot find the blade, call RotoZip customer service. They are nice people. Personally as expressed in my other review, of all the tools I own, this is the most worthless. Fixed depth, vacuum worthless, difficult to guide freehand. Good Luck
43223
none at all i would recommend looking for tutorials on youtube. i also recommend not getting this and saving for a real knife where you can put electrical tape on the sharp stuff. (has the same effect as having a trainer)ps if you do buy it it i will bet that it will break within the first week and the company doesn't cover it by warranty.
1435416
I should think that this set (which I have) might well be useful -ESPECIALLY IF YOU PUT A FILE TO THE "BLADES" yourself. The edges of my set vary in "bite"! Not many really sharp. I strongly recommend the file.Your action and findings would be most interesting and a comment would be VERY welcome. Wm Walter.
1873105
I love mine, but had the same problem...I had an old SPYDERCO shapner, a base with two "V" shaped rods coming out of it and it works perfecly. Razor sharp when I'm done...this comes in a pouch and doesn't take up enough room in my pack to worry about. This sharpens anything, even fish hooks. I believe you can still buy these. If not, get a flat whet stone. That's the best help I can give you. R / Mack
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
1203515
My fiancee just had one of the knives break at the shank too. it scared the #$% out of her. We loved these knives. it was the 7-in. Edgy Santoku Knife that broke. Edit: the support number is: furi support 415 567 9440 8775679440
1724970
Kat:I have the golden oldie unisaw with a 52" unifence.The mobile base was nice to have when I was building my shop and had to move the saw around and out of the way.My feet from the table are close to the front edge of the fence holding portion of the base. To not worry about it falling off, I cut a piece of luan and put it under the feet. No worries of it ever falling off.Jay
1338920
Depends on the length of the blade. I have found similar results with long blades. The farther off at an angle you take the stone, the more the angle changes. I have good luck with the Lansky on my Kershaw Blur and various short folding knives. The short length of the blade and the curve on the blur make for a pretty consistent angle along the blade, but it does still change a little. For long knives like those I sharpen for the kitchen, you would have to move the sharpener along the blade and sharpen in sections. For these, I am using an Edge Pro knockoff. With no clamps, it makes re-positioning much quicker. I still like the Lansky for the shorter and more curved blades.
317289
A stone will work fine. I've also used a diamond rod with great results. The transition is seamless as far as the edge is concerned, just less working room at the hollow ground tip. I would recommend a rod for this knife, but a stone will work fine with a little finess.
680834
Ultra Fine did it for me. You can also strop after Ultra for an even finer edge! BTW go very easily w/ the Ultra Fine stones. It does not require many passes per side and with very light pressure.
1885972
When used for sharpening knives, chisels, and planes, I have heard people discuss 20 year life. I have seen NO perceptible wear in my four DMT stones, some of which are several years old. I read a review where someone was using it as sandpaper (really???) and was disappointed, although I bet it was clogging rather that losing the diamond grit. The extra coarse is for reshaping the cutting edge - my newest stone - and it is likely to replace my grinder (which led to too many funny shapes and angles) I got the coarse to flatten my waterstones, but found it also worked great on dull blades (as the first step). Someone said they used the extra coarse to flatten waterstones, but I don't want to remove that much material - regular coarse works fine on all my waterstones. There is no medium The fine is outstanding for a quick touch up of chisels or for extreme sharpening of kitchen knives. Big advantage is soap and water clean up of kitchen contamination. The extra extra fine (it has a different name) is disappointing. I found it worth going to waterstones after the "fine" DMT. I use 4000, 8000 and now 13000 grit waterstones, occasionally followed by honing compound.