I tried the diode test on a RadioShack 5mm Green LED, it doesn't show any change in reading. Says .0L in the screen.. any suggestions? Everything else seems to work fine.
1846092
When testing polarized parts, such as a diode. It should only allow current in one direction. When you try to push current through it in the wrong direction it will read .0L, because it wont let anything through. I had to check diodes for a power supply. When I connected it in the correct direction, it read .5, but in the wrong direction, .0L.
1846093
I have been trying to figure out why mine will continue to say .OL any time i try to test any AA or AAA battery. Often times i have to play around with the settings and remove and reinsert the testers on the device. Not sure if it's the batteries, tester cords or the device is not sturdy enough to work properly.
1846094
I see the same thing with another green LED. I tried checking an old rectifier I had, a 200 v 15 amp diode, and the screen shows .471 when checking in forward, .0L when checking in reverse. I confess, I don't know what this means.BTW, I connected the LED to a 3v supply to verify that it was OK.
1846095
The forward voltage of most LEDs are not the nominal 0.7V for diodes. It varies with doping (which determines the color). Green LEDs have typicals of 2-3.5V. Basically, for a meter with only 3V supply batteries, it would be OL
1639954
When checking voltage, my Klein MM1000 will display 0.000 when it is not connected. No randomness or glitchy behavior. If I shake the leads, there is some activity but immediately returns to 0.000Edit: after leaving it on for a minute or two. It is acting like Ricks comment. Activity in the 100's and 1000's digits. I do not think it is broken.
1446278
Mine works great and always has. The fact that a display cycles probably means that you have it hooked up wrong. In normal operation, one bar stays lit or flashes when low. Remember that the positive and negative have to ALWAYS be hooked up to your battery pos. and neg. I've got a switch on mine to turn off the display but it's not really needed. One user says "The C is for your switch to turn on the indicator, with my application, I ran a wire and connected it directly with the positive terminal for the indicator, beings I want to be able to kill power to the entire indicator when not in use. Prolly wasn't needed but that was my choice and it works great. The R is unused and I think I read that it's not commonly used." On mine, I think that means that when I installed it I hooked pos to battery pos and neg to battery neg. Then I hooked a wire from C to my switch and back from the positive pole on my switch to neg on the indicator. If you don't put in a switch, then I believe C just gets hooked straight to positive so that the unit will display.
2098866
I think that it's the output from the battery rather than the chemistry. I used li-MH rechargables, with an output right at 1.3v. You might be ok at 1.4, but you're right on the edge at that point. Also, pay attention to the color change rate. One of the RGB leds being offered is a nice slow rate, and the other FLASHES
940706
I'm planning to use a 9v battery to light up 2 or 3 of these LEDs; I see F. Solano has used a 200ohm resistor to accomplish similar, but Kapowzer claims a 1k resistor? Any advise re: which to use would be appreciated - thank you.
1049304
Doito, went dead, no LED light indicates to me that your batter is nolonger connected, Check to make sure it has not disconnected, make sure it's not bad. Even new batteries are bad out of the box. I experienced this first hand as an electronics tech
1332628
Take a multimeter and measure the DC voltage across the hot lead and ground for both lights. If voltage is same then brightness should be same. If voltage is different you need to trouble-shoot the source of the voltage drop. It could be a corroded ground connection or it could be a poor hot wire connection. I did not use the blue snap-on connectors provided by the OEM. I used the grey twist-on connectors and sealed the ends with marine grade RTV silicone. I suspect you have a bad ground. Pull off the light and take a wire brush to the mounting holes. Make sure you have no paint which is interfering with the ground connection. Take a multimeter and measure the DC voltage across the hot lead and ground for both lights. If voltage is same then brightness should be same. If voltage is different you need to trouble-shoot the source of the voltage drop. It could be a corroded ground connection or it could be a poor hot wire connection. I did not use the blue snap-on connectors provided by the OEM. I used the grey twist-on connectors and sealed the ends with marine grade RTV silicone. I suspect you have a bad ground. Pull off the light and take a wire brush to the mounting holes. Make sure you have no paint which is... » Read More Take a multimeter and measure the DC voltage across the hot lead and ground for both lights. If voltage is same then brightness should be same. If voltage is different you need to trouble-shoot the source of the voltage drop. It could be a corroded ground connection or it could be a poor hot wire connection. I did not use the blue snap-on connectors provided by the OEM. I used the grey twist-on connectors and sealed the ends with marine grade RTV silicone. I suspect you have a bad ground. Pull off the light and take a wire brush to the mounting holes. Make sure you have no paint which is interfering with the ground connection. « Show Less
420039
I just changed the battery that's a watch disc battery, and it still does not respond to the rgb 50/50 strip led lights. I simply cannot get the lights to work. I have wrote them off. I am handicapped and I was going to illuminate my wheelchair lift on my van, but could not get the lights to work.
1865495
Certainly sounds like you wired it correctly. Just remember that LEDs are polarity sensitive, so make sure your positive is on the red wire. If that is confirmed, then I have nothing more to suggest.
505681
Yes. Switch to the R1 ohmmeter scale and apply red lead to the cathode of the diode and the black to the anode. For a good diode, the meter should indicate low resistance. Then reverse the meter leads and the meter should indicate very high resistance. If the diode shows either low or high resistance, regardless of the direction of the meter leads, it is faulty.
1639958
Mine appears to do the same thing (in hundredths & thousandths digits) especially when I shake the unit or leads. Goes to steady zero when I touch leads. I don't think this is defect.
1637312
I am not familiar with that reading. My unit has worked like a charm. I would suggest that you go to the vendor's website. Maybe someone else has experienced something similar. Good luck!
2011584
I am going to guess here, because the problem sounds electronic in nature. I would say inside the timing light is a circuit board with one or more IC chips on it. When you press on the advance/retard button a pulse goes to a IC counter chip. Then an output from the chip goes to the digital display where a numeric value is shown for you to see. Seems like if the advance of the pulsing light is working, but no digital read out on the LCD screen, you either have a bad connection on the pc board or a bad LCD or a connection there of. Good luck
15409
I have the same problem with the florescent bulb in the magnifying lamp I purchased from HD. The very first time I tunred it on it blew. Not sure if it's the ballast or the bub but a replacement t5 6400 K 210V 22W is impossible to locate. That's why I'm here shopping for a LED magnifying lamp, lol.
1642737
I've installed one of these switches with a LED floodlight from Home Depot. The light turns on fine, but when the switch is off, the light blinks about once every 2 seconds, like a flash. Very annoying. (And the directions specifically state to do NOT use with CFLs.) Get the EJ600 to use with LEDs.
1906762
I believe those two diodes are at the 730nm point, which is above what most human eyes can react to. This makes the diode look dim or off for most of us. You can get special colored glasses to let you see how bright they are compared to the other diodes.
2283541
The label must have changed. Mine had +/- Load. I hooked up the +from the P/S to the +, the - from P/S and LED light (load) both connect to the - on the switch. The + from the LED to the Load. My assumption would be Line/Negative/Load. You should contact the seller to be sure. Good luck!