I've got -2.75 & -1.75 eyes. Should I round up or down to the nearest diopter? For each eye. 2.5 or 3 for the 2.75 eye & 1.5 or 2 for the 1.75 eye?
64369
Because of the difference I would suggest buying 1 pair in each of the diopters you need and swapping out the lenses. For me the difference was only 1 point so I went up a half. They've worked out great.
64370
Two easy ways to solve this issue: There is a company called Platina (they also sell on Amazon) that sells the Corrective lenses separately so you can go that route if you like but it is more money. Second option: determine which is your DOMINANT eye and buy a pair with that correction. 99% chance you will NEVER notice the difference since your dominant eye controls most of your "vision"
47633
So you have the option to have a different strength for each eye? I did not when getting swim goggles and went with something in the middle, so in your case, either 2 or 2.5. I have one eye too strong, one not enough, but that does not seem to be a problem.
49300
You need to know your glasses prescription. If you're nearsighted, (need correction for distance sight your rx will be a negative number. The lenses come in 0.5 increments. For example I have a -3.75 correction. Since it is in between correction options I ordered a -3.50. (If your in between order the lesser strength). If you are far sighted the correction will be a +.(ie reading glasses). Hope that helps.
1216096
I have different sizes for different areas. I have been using the 1.0 for my face, 0.5 for around the eyes and 2.0 for body areas. I hope this helps. I actually did my face last night.
301033
20/1.7 or 14/2.5? I chose the 14 and have been pleased with the choice. It is perfect with street scenes, mountains and forests. In addition l, it is a pancake lens and packs light.
2010915
I read that it'sto do with the exit pupil size and why I went for 15x70. Apparently adult pupils (those over age 25) have a pupil diameter of around 5mm. So with 15x70 binoculars that's an exit pupil size of just under 5mm (the 70 divided by the 15). So essentially these will let in the maximum amount of light into your eye thus giving the sharpest and brightest image. I believe that if you buy 25x70s then the images may appear quite dark. PS still waiting for mine to arrive so and brand new to astronomy so happy to be corrected. Hope this helps.
1069237
Sharper by a discernible amount. Lighter! Faster focusing. 70-300 maintains a significant advantage in close focusing though. I have both lenses. If you want to shoot bugs and flowers, 70-300 is the way to go. Birds, sports, the moon, 75-300.
2263148
with out the 3x magnifier I wanted the two dot easy to see . with out the 3x magnifier over two dots hard to see them . yeah with 4 dots and no &#9726;3x magnifier looks like a straight line. I dint want the weight and pay the extra cash. my friend has the 4 dot and 3x magnifier really nice set up. hope this helped you :)
1340325
The first number is the power of the lens, that is how much it will magnify the image. The second number represents the diameter of the lens in mm. They work together to calculate a number called the "exit pupil" or "exit ratio". Take the lens size and divide it by the power to get this number. The higher the number, the brighter the image. For example, 10x50 will give an exit ratio of 5.0, 8x42 would be 5.25, 10x42 would be 4.2. In my opinion, the exit ratio is more important than the power. My favorite binoculars are 8x50 (6.25) but I also just bought 10x50 as a gift who is delighted with that configuration. Stay away from high-power binoculars. They, for me, are too hard to keep steady due to the high magnification. I hope this helps. -Norm
2182543
If you pull out the viewfinder you'll find a small dial. That's the diopter adjustment. It's great when you go from glasses to no glasses. Before you set it make sure you've actually had the camera properly focused on something first.
759249
My brother has loan his 50 1.4 to me. I like. I may get the 24-70 2.8 - we get so many positives about it. Use the 24-70 indoors and the 4f lens where there is good light??Thanks for your suggestions.
944545
Well it depends how far are you shooting in my neck of the woods. 3x9 is fine. I like 3x9 I leave Lt on 3 while walking in just in case I jump something. On 3 I can focus quickly on a target . The only time I adjust higher is when sitting once I spot something or when target shooting. I normally target shoot 50- 200 yards with no problem with 3x9 either way its a wonderful scope you be happy.
1632326
i've found 1 1/2" is the "best". That close, always manual focus if possible.
944546
Well it depends how far are you shooting in my neck of the woods. 3x9 is fine. I like 3x9 I leave Lt on 3 while walking in just in case I jump something.On 3 I can focus quickly on a target . The only time I adjust higher is when sitting once I spot something or when target shooting. I normally target shoot 50- 200 yards with no problem with 3x9 either way its a wonderful scope you be happy.
1213448
+3.5. And, besides: I tried them in a store and found that they they work superbly for adjusting on the fly between -6 and +3.5 correction (more or less). The optics seem excellent. As a fashion statement a bit awkward but hard to make the double lens system look better. The dial adjusters are discretely positioned and effective. I have no idea about durability.
107802
That equation is correct... it is called spherical equivalent. With a -3.00 sphere and -3.25 cylinder, your spherical equivalent is -4.50. Keep in mind this will give you pretty decent vision - good enough to see at a reasonable distance, but this will not be equal to a full spectacle prescription. I am an optometrist.
1177288
Depends on what your prescription is. The camera has a built in -3.0 to +1.0 diopter adjustment. You want to buy the one that will allow you to match your prescription. E.g. If you wear +2 prescription, get the +2 and dial it down by 1. You would only need the - if you have to go further than the -3 that is built in. However, I have found that I do not use the diopter. When I have my glasses off, the images on the LCD are blurry. So I shoot with my glasses or contacts, so I can still view the images on the LCD. Hope this helps you decide. Chris
857710
Sheryl; The first number (7, 8, 10, etc.) is the power or magnification of the binocular which means a 10 brings the image 10 times closer than the naked eye sees. So the higher the number usually means a better binocular assuming the lenses are of high quality. But a higher magnification also requires a steadier hand. The second number describes the size of the front lens. A 25 will be larger and therefore bring in more light than a 21 and is usually a better unit. So most people would opt for the 10x25 over an 8x21.