How much of a problem are stains? Should we use a wood protectent / sealer of some kind before use?
1836644
We have not had any issues after a year of use, but I am sure it wouldn't hurt to put something on either.
1836645
We did not use a protectant at first but then thought it would be a good idea. We used a Teak Oil which can be used on the eucalyptus wood.
921843
I use Anchorseal 2 on my logs before I put them on the sawmill. Once the lumber is dry and cut into boards, I knock the sealed ends off. I have never had a problem with staining afterwards. I do not stain over top of the sealer. Probably not the answer you wanted but felt it may be helpful to others.
1070361
The product is a wood conditioner that you use before staining. The idea is that certain woods (e.g., birch) absorb stains unevenly. Some parts of the wood absorb more stain than others, and it ends up looking blotchy. This wood conditioner is applied before staining (i.e., "pre-stain") to solve this problem. It's actually like applying a very thin layer of finish to the wood. It tends to block stain absorption, but will also make the stain that is absorbed look much more even. Contrary to the instructions on the can, though, I find it works best if I apply the conditioner, then let the wood sit for a couple days or more before applying the stain itself. The product is a wood conditioner that you use before staining. The idea is that certain woods (e.g., birch) absorb stains unevenly. Some parts of the wood absorb more stain than others, and it ends up looking blotchy. This wood conditioner is applied before staining (i.e., "pre-stain") to solve this problem. It's actually like applying a very thin layer of finish to the wood. It tends to block stain absorption, but will also make the stain that is absorbed look much more even. Contrary to the instructions on the can, though, I find it works best if I apply the conditioner, then... » Read More The product is a wood conditioner that you use before staining. The idea is that certain woods (e.g., birch) absorb stains unevenly. Some parts of the wood absorb more stain than others, and it ends up looking blotchy. This wood conditioner is applied before staining (i.e., "pre-stain") to solve this problem. It's actually like applying a very thin layer of finish to the wood. It tends to block stain absorption, but will also make the stain that is absorbed look much more even. Contrary to the instructions on the can, though, I find it works best if I apply the conditioner, then let the wood sit for a couple days or more before applying the stain itself. « Show Less
647580
It's stained and looks good the way it is. Natural cedar doesn't usually have this reddish color to it, almost like a pecan. Would be a good idea to spray a non-gloss sealer over it, however.
921842
As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood. Could be 3-6 months. As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood.... » Read More As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood. Could be 3-6 months. « Show Less
160891
I have used these clamps for many years and have never seen or heard of a problem with them staining wood. I suppose that, if there were residual stain material on the clamp, it could be transferred to the work. That, I would classify as operator error.
880960
I agree with Galabb about using a LITTLE heat especially still this is paneling. Everything else may leave a residue on that spot. I'd tell you to use a putty knife or razor blade, but not on paneling unless you can match the stain you'll be taking off. For the next go around, try using 3M Scotch Command tape. It's removable and comes with a hook.
1078273
I've rinsed the area of spill with water and used small amount of dish soap before stain dries. To avoid the problem, I wear an old garment while applying.
1583004
Yes, but as with any cleaner, it'd be best to test it somewhere inconspicuous first. Not all wood finishes have the same durability. Particularly as this has to dwell for 10 minutes to disinfect, less durable finishes might not hold up.
1832168
Pre-treat the stains, and it should work well. I have several dogs, so that's a big reason I have it.
387900
I personally have not noticed a stain but as for as the poor sealing and small amount you are right about that. I took my bottle on a trip with me making sure I tighten the bottle very good. Good thing I also put it in a Baggie because it all leaked out.
1907283
The wood is finished, so not sure it would take a stain without sanding or taking off the finish.
2241034
I would use a microfiber towel and then condition. If your furniture is near the kitchen then I'd consider cleaner with the leather cleaner first
661301
I am thinking you can use it on a newly stained table. It is very gentle, no chemicals.....It may temporarily darken the wood but after applying you wait a few hours and then wipe it off. It really is so great on my wooden counters which are unfinished. If the wood is sealed with polyurethane or something like that, the cream wood just lay on the top and not penetrate the wood. I don't believe a stained wood would be a problem as long as it not sealed with anything else.....
986597
I didn't stain mine, but the paint came out nicely! If you were to paint then clear coat it with a thin layer of polyurethane, it should be protected for a good amount of time!
1164865
I used the arm-R-Seal on all the bedroom furniture I built. I tried the Gel Top Coat & it did not have a smooth looking finish. I also used Java Gel Stain on all the same furniture with all positive results.
106577
not bad, really- depending on how bad the stain is, you can dilute the solution 3 parts AIP with 1 part water in a gallon sprayer then saturate the area and allow to dry. The manufacturer also offers full support- they are of great help, too.