In my vintage camper, occasionally charging with 100 w (w/ MPPT controller) solar, occasionally with 110 battery maintainer plugged into outlet, sometimes nothing, how would I wire so it monitors amp hrs regardless of what I have hooked up? I don't have any inverters or anything. Can I do this? In my vintage camper, occasionally charging with 100 w (w/ MPPT controller) solar, occasionally with 110 battery maintainer plugged into outlet, sometimes nothing, how would I wire so it monitors... » Read More In my vintage camper, occasionally charging with 100 w (w/ MPPT controller) solar, occasionally with 110 battery maintainer plugged into outlet, sometimes nothing, how would I wire so it monitors amp hrs regardless of what I have hooked up? I don't have any inverters or anything. Can I do this? « Show Less
1831205
If you are interested in seeing the Amp hours being delivered by your battery, the "Watt's Up" would be wired up in line. This means the black and red leads from your battery would be connected to the respective black and red leads on the "source" side of the meter, then the black and red wires that are hooked up to your battery today, will be connected to the respective black and red wire on the "output" side of the "Watt's up" meter. The Watt's up meter has about 12 gauge wire and can handle only about 30 amps before it would melt down so plan accordingly. Watts=Volts X Amps. If further info is needed, the Watt's Up meter has several instructional videos on Youtube. If you are interested in seeing the Amp hours being delivered by your battery, the "Watt's Up" would be wired up in line. This means the black and red leads from your battery would be connected to the respective black and red leads on the "source" side of the meter, then the black and red wires that are hooked up to your battery today, will be connected to the respective black and red wire on the "output" side of the "Watt's up" meter. The Watt's up meter has about 12 gauge wire and can handle only about 30 amps before it would melt down so plan... » Read More If you are interested in seeing the Amp hours being delivered by your battery, the "Watt's Up" would be wired up in line. This means the black and red leads from your battery would be connected to the respective black and red leads on the "source" side of the meter, then the black and red wires that are hooked up to your battery today, will be connected to the respective black and red wire on the "output" side of the "Watt's up" meter. The Watt's up meter has about 12 gauge wire and can handle only about 30 amps before it would melt down so plan accordingly. Watts=Volts X Amps. If further info is needed, the Watt's Up meter has several instructional videos on Youtube. « Show Less
1831206
Sure you can wire it to between battery and load. To monitor the amp hours your using.
1831207
Like LFM says, put the "Watt's Up" between battery and load. As long as it has some current from the battery, the unit will stay on and keep a running tally of amp hours, max/min voltage, etc.
982327
Hi, Sharon. It seems to me that a camper would utilize a solar panel that is permanently mounted. A "hard" panel, as opposed to this folding unit would be cheaper. Perhaps 1/3rd of the cost for the same wattage. You're paying quite a bit more to have the folding/soft and light style. This unit is more for having in a car or boat, or even a backpack, and put into action only when needed-- and not permanently affixed to the top of a parked RV or camper, during the week, charging the batteries for the next excursion IMHO. But to answer your question, my controller inputs take two bare wires from the panel. So I modified the adapter (that has alligator clips) that the panel came with by cutting the clips off so that the terminal ends are bare. The controller then locked them in with screws. You could actually just cut the plug off from the terminal end of the wire coming out of the panel, but I feel better about chopping up an adapter than cutting the plug off of the panel. Anyway, I hope I answered your question without rambling too much. -Scott
1134542
You will need to get extra cable, 10 gauge will work, mc4 connectors (from Renogy.com or on Amazon from Renogy), a charge controller (aka regulator) and a power inverter that will give you a regular outlet plug. If you are going to use a inverter on your battery you may want a higher wattage panel. I would suggest a 50w solar panel, if you get the 30w panel it might not keep up with the load you plug into the inverter. You will want some Z brackets that come with roof screws, renogy.com has them very cheaply. You can optionally add a volt meter and hook it on your battery. It will give you a constant reading. You will need to get extra cable, 10 gauge will work, mc4 connectors (from Renogy.com or on Amazon from Renogy), a charge controller (aka regulator) and a power inverter that will give you a regular outlet plug. If you are going to use a inverter on your battery you may want a higher wattage panel. I would suggest a 50w solar panel, if you get the 30w panel it might not keep up with the load you plug into the inverter. You will want some Z brackets that come with roof screws, renogy.com has them very cheaply. You can optionally add a volt meter and hook it on your battery. It will give you... » Read More You will need to get extra cable, 10 gauge will work, mc4 connectors (from Renogy.com or on Amazon from Renogy), a charge controller (aka regulator) and a power inverter that will give you a regular outlet plug. If you are going to use a inverter on your battery you may want a higher wattage panel. I would suggest a 50w solar panel, if you get the 30w panel it might not keep up with the load you plug into the inverter. You will want some Z brackets that come with roof screws, renogy.com has them very cheaply. You can optionally add a volt meter and hook it on your battery. It will give you a constant reading. « Show Less
2261353
Yes it can charge the camper battery, but I doubt if you are using a lot of watts over night that it will be enough... It is more of a strong trickle charger... You need the larger panels for dry camping. A 24 Series Battery has 85 AMP hours of power. In other words, a single bulb in the trailer draws 1.7 AMPS. Now take the number of bulbs in the unit, for example, a trailer with 15 bulbs = 27.20 AMPs. Add in a radio CD player = 5.0 AMPS. Now the furnace will draw 7.0 AMPS if it were to run for 1 hour depending on how cold at night and how the temperature is set. Even though the fridge is on gas, the board still draws power, 2.0 AMPS. Here are some examples of how much power certain items draw: 85 AMP hours 27.20 AMP bulbs 5.0 AMPS stereo 7.0 AMP furnace 2.0 fridge 41.20 total per hour ____________________________________________________________________________ 85 divided by 41.20 = 2.06 hours of battery power. Now we know that we do not have all of the lights on at the same time but you get the general idea. What can you do so you don't run out of power? First there are solar panels. We recommend a 130 watt panel with a 30 AMP regulator. This will give you 7.2 AMPS of charge per hour (with good weather conditions). Secondly, a new and upcoming idea is LED interior bulbs. They only draw 0.2 AMPS that's 3.20 AMPS verses 27.20 AMPS with the traditional bulbs. So you can see the 5 watt panel you are looking at will not even come close to helping you dry camp, but it will help maintain your charge if in storage.
2242774
You need a charge controller pretty much for any solar panel over 10 watts. I like the ones that have a digital voltage meter and built in float mode. Lots of choices for controllers in the $20 range Panel has held up well so far on my sailboat.
641032
You're probably thinking of a charge controller, not an inverter. And yes, you always need a charge controller so you don't overcharge the battery with the solar panel
1958639
You would want to use this in conjunction with a deep cycle battery even a marine deep cycle like those sold under the blue "Ever Start" label at walmart even and a 10 amp or greater "Solar Charge controller" and a "ac power inverter" for running things like household AC lights/laptops/small appliances like blenders and coffee grinders and even short uses of a standard 700 watt microwave! Pending your geographical location (I'm in Oregon) I get about 35 to 45 amps of battery charge on a late spring through summer average sunny day.. (6-7 amps per hour) That's enough for me to keep my laptop running 24/7 and 3 or 4 8 watt CFL light bulbs in standard table lamps for 6-8 hours a day! You can add more panel and more batteries to expand your needs and to compensate for lower sun exposure areas.. I highly recommend searching the internet for a basic free "Solar how to and intro" page. and also a search about using and maintaining "Deep cycle batteries" (You never want to drain your batteries lower than 50% between charges) It all sounds overwhelming to a beginner but once you do a quick study you will be hooked! ~ Hope this helps ~ Nick
883032
You should look at running 2 - possible 3 100 watt panels, if an upgrade for future look at 10 gauge panel wire, it seems your running 12 volt, but your inverter and charger will depend. I've got a 40 amp 12/24 charger but batteries will run at 12 bought in a kit with 6 100 watt panels but told to only run 5 as my 60 amp also takes 1600 watts if at 24, but running at 12 so 800 watts mix up and I was sent a 12 both are mppt, you can probably run 5-6 100 watts if you have 2/ 25 amps combined, if not mppt they will keep charging but at a lower rate will destroy your batteries if not in use all the time, go with 10 gauge wire you will be happier.
925843
It needs a voltage regulator to keep from overcharging the powerpack. I have the cheap 10 amp ($15) controller. Output from this panel can exceed 20 volts in strong sunlight.
1293259
A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more specific A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more... » Read More A lot more information is going to be needed. What battery voltage are you going to be using, how far of a run, do the 100 watt panels have mc4 ends? The questions could go on for days. This has standard screw type terminals, so all you need to do is strip the copper, stick it in its hole, and tighten the screw. Hooking up panels can be a very different task if there are not mc4 ends. Then you will need a water/weatherproof junction box to combine the panel terminations, and then run a single line from where the panels. Your question is far too open ended to even try and answer. Be more specific « Show Less
995180
Go for it. That's the same reason that I purchased their 100 watt system for our camping in locations with no services. I, however added an A/B switch as I use two deep cell batteries in our camper so that I ca use one battery while the other one is being charged by the solar panel.
861578
I run #10 wire to a Power/Charge converter and connect that to charge my 12volt batteries (in series or parallel). To the 12 volt batteries I connect a 400 Watt or greater Power Inverter, one with both 110v AND 12 volt outlets. I use the batteries to run my camping trailer so most of my power is used there. But from the Power Inverter I can run an outside TV, Sirius radio, small fan and all kinds of neat stuff. As long as I keep my eyes on it I can go weeks on two batteries and one 100w solar panel (in camping/travel trailer)
974746
Hello Barbara, sorry for the slow answer. You can connect these panels in parallel to double the output but you probably will not see a full 120 watts. Keep in mind that there are many things that determine output of these panels such as the angle of the sun and the ambient air temperature at the time of use. Also, you will need to wire the panels through a good quality regulator/charger and with good quality deep cycle batteries to have consistent power output as the output voltage and current of the panels constantly change as the sun moves across the sky and as clouds move over and around the sky. Hello Barbara, sorry for the slow answer. You can connect these panels in parallel to double the output but you probably will not see a full 120 watts. Keep in mind that there are many things that determine output of these panels such as the angle of the sun and the ambient air temperature at the time of use. Also, you will need to wire the panels through a good quality regulator/charger and with good quality deep cycle batteries to have consistent power output as the output voltage and current of the panels constantly change as the sun moves across the sky and as clouds move over and... » Read More Hello Barbara, sorry for the slow answer. You can connect these panels in parallel to double the output but you probably will not see a full 120 watts. Keep in mind that there are many things that determine output of these panels such as the angle of the sun and the ambient air temperature at the time of use. Also, you will need to wire the panels through a good quality regulator/charger and with good quality deep cycle batteries to have consistent power output as the output voltage and current of the panels constantly change as the sun moves across the sky and as clouds move over and around the sky. « Show Less
1946038
Run the solar panel connection to the charge controller, then from the charge controller to a 12 volt battery. Works great for me running lights at a deer camp.
243759
I used this panel to keep the batteries charged for my gate opener. If you use this make sure you cover it to block the sun until after everything is connected. IE: Load controller and the load, batteries also if you are charging them. This panel puts out around 28V so it will fry anything that is not going through the controller. I charged to motorcycle size batteries, 24V kept them charged. Am going to use it now to keep the batteries charged on my Quads, I will reset the charge controller to use 12V instead of 24V Great little trickle charger and it will maintain your battery, Not meant to recharge the battery just maintenance. I used this panel to keep the batteries charged for my gate opener. If you use this make sure you cover it to block the sun until after everything is connected. IE: Load controller and the load, batteries also if you are charging them. This panel puts out around 28V so it will fry anything that is not going through the controller. I charged to motorcycle size batteries, 24V kept them charged. Am going to use it now to keep the batteries charged on my Quads, I will reset the charge controller to use 12V instead of 24V Great little trickle charger and it will maintain your battery, Not meant... » Read More I used this panel to keep the batteries charged for my gate opener. If you use this make sure you cover it to block the sun until after everything is connected. IE: Load controller and the load, batteries also if you are charging them. This panel puts out around 28V so it will fry anything that is not going through the controller. I charged to motorcycle size batteries, 24V kept them charged. Am going to use it now to keep the batteries charged on my Quads, I will reset the charge controller to use 12V instead of 24V Great little trickle charger and it will maintain your battery, Not meant to recharge the battery just maintenance. « Show Less
1955408
I have five 100 watt panels now, wired together with MC4 split connectors and running 25 feet to my charge controller. My panels have a working voltage of 18.5V. That gives me 5.5 amp per panel in direct sun. In total I get 27 - 28 amps on a clear day. I have no problem with voltage drop but I am now max'd out on my 30 amp charge controller and the 10 guage wire. If you have a larger system than that you will need heavier wire, unless your panels operate at a higher voltage, wich would lower your amps. As long as you are under 30 amp this wire works great. I hope this helps.Dan
616969
This is why I hooked my 520 watts of panels in series so you halve the amperage. I can add another 2 panels in the future and still keep it under 30 amps. Remember too that the charge controller can charge a normal 12v battery bank, that's what mine is. I recommend making a 24v panel setup.