I'm curious as to what to use after claybaring the surface? Do I use a product like meguires ultimate compound and then wax it?
1831920
It all depends on what your paint looks like and what you're trying to do. I would clay/wash/wax with a good wax and you'll be set
1831921
It depends how much correction your paint needs. The best would be to clay then compound following a polish then a wax. If you go with meguiars look up there professional line like the m105 followed by m205 then pick a wax
1831922
Yes, you can use ultimate compound, if necesssary. Sometimes a less abrasive compound or polish is enough, depending on the condition of your paint.
1831923
Depends entirely on the condition of the paint. A clay bar typically preps a paint surface for the next step. If it's full of swirls, surface scratches or faded, then you'll want to use a compound and then a polish. If it's in fairly good condition, especially a newer vehicle, go ahead to waxing.
1831924
The purpose of the clay bar is to really strip the pain of anything (dirt, wax, ect). Often times the clay bar will put VERY fine lines in your pain (swirl marks of sorts). If your paint inst looking good id use a compound, polish, then sealant. What I usually do is clay bar the car, polish, apply sealant. Hope that helps!
1048697
New or old, you'll be fine. This liquid wax is very forgiving... even if you get it on black trim. All you have to do is buff it out with a clean towel. It went on/ off easy and the results are great. It will help if you have a good base.... meaning you've cleaned off all other contaminants. I clayed and polished first and then used the liquid wax.
244650
I did not use claying and compound. It was used as a base layer before the waxing.
1518902
No need to remove any base products before use. This is one tough application though. Use sparingly! Just a very light amount spread as far as it will go, let it dry per instructions and buff off. Any heavy application will give you a work out trying to remove / buff. I found that a "quick detailer" spray helps to clean up any swirls left by the wax. Ultimate Quik Wax and lot's of others are much easier to use but not as durable.
1342800
I started with the one step compound and the Orange pad and it came out flawlessly. I'd recommend in progressive grades to be safe. Always use a wax sealer after otherwise that oxidation will come right back.
1750700
It's a good idea to clay bar your vehicle. Especially if it's a few years old. That's about it. A clean surface free of debris is all that's required. I went over the Jetseal with a good synthetic wax and it seems to last a long time. If you find that you have a few areas that are a little rough even after using a clay bar kit to can use some pre-wax polish prior to applying the sealant.
2241655
I am not sure what other people use, but I bake it, sand it, and spray it with Krylon clear acrylic spray. I believe that you can paint it with latex paints. I think you could find some good information on Utube and search Scupty. Another good idea is to do a Google search under the type of craft you are doing, or under the type of material you are using. Good luck. Things will probably be fine no matter what you use. I avoid any oil based paints because of unknown or bad chemical reactions with the clay.
647143
not 100% sure on this, but what i can tell you is that its a pretty good product! i have a 1991 conversion van with a fiberglass roof. never been detailed before. after washing it, i applied this wax as directed and used a white cloth to remove. MAN, the gunk that came off. i couldnt believe it, with the minimum of effort. hand buffed, no machine. i used about half a bottle for it, so it goes a long way too. doesnt remove surface scratches like a clay bar, but it removes road grime like a champ. pretty much any meguiars products i have used worked well, so good luck. the price cant be beat either. not 100% sure on this, but what i can tell you is that its a pretty good product! i have a 1991 conversion van with a fiberglass roof. never been detailed before. after washing it, i applied this wax as directed and used a white cloth to remove. MAN, the gunk that came off. i couldnt believe it, with the minimum of effort. hand buffed, no machine. i used about half a bottle for it, so it goes a long way too. doesnt remove surface scratches like a clay bar, but it removes road grime like a champ. pretty much any meguiars products i have used worked well, so good luck. the price cant be beat... » Read More not 100% sure on this, but what i can tell you is that its a pretty good product! i have a 1991 conversion van with a fiberglass roof. never been detailed before. after washing it, i applied this wax as directed and used a white cloth to remove. MAN, the gunk that came off. i couldnt believe it, with the minimum of effort. hand buffed, no machine. i used about half a bottle for it, so it goes a long way too. doesnt remove surface scratches like a clay bar, but it removes road grime like a champ. pretty much any meguiars products i have used worked well, so good luck. the price cant be beat either. « Show Less
36304
Depending on the condition of the paint, you may need to use a light compound to remove any oxidation. I have used a compound called Menzerna, with a high speed buffer. If your paint looks good, you can proceed to waxing with the Collinite 476. Do a section at a time. The wax will give a deep gloss and does seem to last for a very long time. I used it on my boat that was used in saltwater, and it looked great and protected the surface, making it easy to clean after a day of fishing.
123911
Use Mother's Showtime. This product is the primary lubricant when using the clay bar . Use just enough to allow the bar to glide freely. You do not have have the are of these you are working on totally saturated. Show time is also used as a touch up between wax jobs. I use mine after I have washed and dried my car.
628497
Cold waxing I don't know. I think that would be a liquid wax. For this hot waxing brick, there are many videos on youtube with various methods. You should buy a hot wax iron (no steam holes), hold the wax against the iron, melt the wax to drip onto the ski, then use the iron to re-melt what wax had dripped into an even surface coating. Dry, then scrape off wax. (Takes a long time). Before this process, fill deep scrapes with a repair kit then sanding off the excess filler. When that's all done, get a roller edge sharpener that will get the excess wax off and sharpen your edges. Watch those videos. Cold waxing I don't know. I think that would be a liquid wax. For this hot waxing brick, there are many videos on youtube with various methods. You should buy a hot wax iron (no steam holes), hold the wax against the iron, melt the wax to drip onto the ski, then use the iron to re-melt what wax had dripped into an even surface coating. Dry, then scrape off wax. (Takes a long time). Before this process, fill deep scrapes with a repair kit then sanding off the excess filler. When that's all done, get a roller edge sharpener that will get the excess wax off and sharpen your edges. Watch those... » Read More Cold waxing I don't know. I think that would be a liquid wax. For this hot waxing brick, there are many videos on youtube with various methods. You should buy a hot wax iron (no steam holes), hold the wax against the iron, melt the wax to drip onto the ski, then use the iron to re-melt what wax had dripped into an even surface coating. Dry, then scrape off wax. (Takes a long time). Before this process, fill deep scrapes with a repair kit then sanding off the excess filler. When that's all done, get a roller edge sharpener that will get the excess wax off and sharpen your edges. Watch those videos. « Show Less
240805
I only used my waxing kit once before it stopped working but the wax was a nightmare to get off. I tried waxing my bikini area and it took me days to get it off. I used Vaseline and eventually after scrubbing until I was raw, it came off.
1632163
I would almost certainly say "No", since it microetches the substrate. I have worked with clay, specifically porcelain, for over sixteen years, and have found that surface treatment is permanent. The product is great and worthwhile in application.
1268457
I use mytery oil and the wax...give it the double treatment per boos site prior to using it the first time.
408711
You could also try the clay bar, it made my glass super smooth. I dont think the black wax applicator pad on the tool should hurt glass as it is non-abrasive.
704513
You shouldn't have to heat this at all; in fact, I would never recommend it. The wax should have been the consistency of fresh shoe polish. You should never have to do more than rub an applicator across it to get a nice, smooth paste. You seem to have received old stock; notify Amazon and the seller, and see what they can do about it. This stuff is wonderful to work with and a snap to use. You just didn't get what you paid for.
675827
I found that if you are not careful when using it, reused clay may have particulates but only the ones you have introduced yourself...other wise it is very smooth...you can even get a decent polish on the surface.