I just started working with polymer clay. Should I get the gloss or the semi-gloss? Is there a difference between the finished product?
1846750
My wife works with polymer clay. Gloss gives depth and extra dimension to the projects. It also enhances metallic clays, such as gold and silver. She would never use satin or semi-gloss over metallics, because all they do is to dull the shine. Satin and semi-gloss are great for projects where a rough, unpolished, or "natural" look is desired, such as Steampunk projects. Hope this helps and best of luck with your creations!
1846751
I just got the regular gloss and it works perfect for my charms. I glaze them 3 times and they come out extra glossy, protected and shiny. They look professional. It's very watery so you don't need that much for one charm.
1846752
it really depends on what kind of finish you want. I personally like a super glossy finish so i use gloss on my polymer clay figurines. I suggest about 3-4 thin coats with proper drying times in between to ensure that the finish won't scratch & to achieve that glossy surface. Semi- gloss just gives off a dull sheen~ hope that helped.
1846753
Get this one. It's amazing! Semi gloss is a little less shiny and may leave a little foggy after color.
1094709
If you are going to use it for a craft project, it seems to be overkill. Your can use Minwax natural color stain for the purpose of seal and protect. But if you want your project to be gloss, it will do just that.
792274
Hi India:) I'm like you,new to Seche.I got my fastdry topcoat about a month ago&to; be honest,it was quite a transition from my normal GlossyGlam(by @justricarda on IG).But truly not because it gets thick too fast.Now that I'm used to it I'd completely recommend to anybody!The ONE thing u shud be warned about is...Be SURE&let; your coats dry well before u apply because it WILL shrink your polish.I'd heard that but foundout the hard way:p And also,when it says fastdry that's exactly what it means.Overall itsa great formula!Hope all that was helpful!:) *Kelly
805646
You should do a test section on the plastic to see if it will bond to it. This glaze is intended for Sculpey or Fimo clay, but I have bonded these clays to surfaces such as canvass, wood, snow boards, skateboards and surfboards and it has always worked. But some plastics are really glossy and the glaze may not adhere to it...it will either peel off or come off easily if you scratch it with your nail. Another option if you are bonding the clay to plastic: use the Sculpey glaze on the clay parts only, then switch to using RUST-OLEUM Ultra Cover -GLOSS CLEAR (Home Depot) it bonds to most surfaces and looks the same as the Sculpey glaze, you will not see a difference. This combination has always worked for me. Good luck!
646414
Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a... » Read More Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. « Show Less
783770
M105 and M205 was easier for me to work with. Plus it doesnt have all the fillers that the ultimate polish does. If you use the M105. You HAVE to follow it with the M205. You should only have to use the M105 ONCE on the car. Then wash it properly with the 2 bucket method so you don't put swirl markes back on the paint. If you use the M105 I recommend getting a dual action polisher its safe for beginners. I got mine from harbor freight. It works great just change the backing plate to a 5" and dont buy their pads I got mine from chemical guys.
1050472
You need to let the poly finish dry completely first. Then use only the polishing wax. I prefer to put several coats of poly on to a shiny finish then wet sand with 800 wet/dry sand paper. Then use tree wax.
1509422
Matte finish, but you will want to get a clear polyurethane for your project once your done applying the gel stain anyways. I love this product!
225507
No, it is not quite the same. It is thinner (more watery) and doesn't have as much gloss after it dries. I know this because I waxed one tile with the Original Future and another with the new product for a side by side comparison. When I apply a second coat it turns white (on a dark tile floor--this never happened with the Original Future product, which I just ran out of this week) and looks almost like Elmer's Glue drying. But once it is finally dry it becomes a clear finish. I am disappointed that I can no longer get the original Future finish.
1908055
The preperation of the paint is the most important step. Using it on my wife's car, 2005 model, and the car is still in showroom condition. Wax goes on nicely, apply only in one direction, polish it up with a microfiver cloth and use a second one to buff it to a beautiful sheen. Gives great depth to the paintwork and gives that nice wet look. works even better when applied with a polisher, I use an orbital polisher. Waxing is the final step to achieve the wet look finish. Wax doesn't last as long as sealants/polishes. I'm a bit of a detailing nut, so I apply wax every week when washing the car. I've noticed that it is still effective after a month and still gives that nice beading effect in the rain. Another bonus of this product, during normal weekly commuting, especially in the rain, the car seems to stay cleaner for longer as the dirt battles to find grip on the super slippery surface. I've tried various products and am very happy with P21S - finally found the rpoduct that I'll stick with. I also use Autoglym Super Resin Polish as the sealant, Chemical Guys Wet Mirror Finish as the polish. Don't forget to clay the vehicle at least once every six months to get rid of all the oxidation and garbage that collects on the paintwork. Chemical Guys have some nice products for dark coloured vehicles like yours. Hope the info helped.
1857542
I personally prefer the Wilton fondant for modeling- it's not so sticky and dries harder. It also doesn't get the wrinkly 'skin' on it. Definitely dust the mold with cornstarch so it doesn't stick and mix in a little tylose powder if you want it to set even harder. Good luck!
1085468
Gloss or matte finish? I would say neither. Once it is dry, the stuff is absolutely invisible. I put two coats on my new stone patio and anticipated some noticeable change. Nothing. You'll know it is there, however, when something capable of staining is eventually spilled. A little soap and water and the problem is solved. I saved the empty containers and marked them clearly with the application date. That way, I remember to order more every other year because the sealer is invisible and gives no hint that it is worn or fadding.
1616275
It is a cleaner, protector, and I would say semi gloss look. I love this stuff by the way. I can't find it in stores, I also clean my Dawg's with it.awesome cleaner.
108641
I would use the pad they recommend whcih is the ultimate polishing pad. You can also call Paul from marble gloss restorer and he will give you great advice. The product works great. you will need a lot of elbow grease.
320638
I have done this process myself and I didn't use a different acrylic layer. I did put a second layer after the glitter just to get a smoother finish. I was happy with just using the Mod Podge Hard Coat.coat.
1466994
The semi-matte has more sheen when applied than the satin which has a less reflective finish.
1451726
This glaze is amazing but it has to be applied correctly to the item and more importantly allowed to dry fully. If you're making a piece of artwork say, out of polymer clay, it is best to apply a thick layer without much fussing. In other words, apply a layer and leave it alone until it is fully dry. Then you can apply another layer if need be. I would allow a piece to dry in a cool NON humid place for at least 12 hours. If you are storing an item that has been glazed, please allow adequate airflow to the item. I have had some pieces become tacky for no reason I could comprehend, but I re-glazed the piece and it was totally fine. I don't see an issue with hot climates if you allow the piece to dry for 12-24 hours in a dry, cool place first. If you want to avoid any possibility of tackiness at all, you can create a semi gloss glaze by adding water to the product (in a small cup) and this will reduce your chances of tackiness dramatically. As far as the glaze being heat resistant, I would say it is but please make sure it is properly cured.