Trying to unclog a basement floor drain which is backing up. I don't know how/where the pipes bend. How do I control this? Does it attach to a drill?
1834089
It does not attach to a drill. Most floor drains won't have over a 45% elbow which the cobra can handle.
1834090
It does not connect to a drill. It works great but if you have a lot of bends you will want the 1/2 version.
1834091
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NFO528/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid;=1388283532&sr;=8-3
1834092
The 3/4 inch tape is semi rigid and suitable for removing clogs in long relatively straight runs. I would guess there is a "P" trap in your floor drain and the tape would not go through it. Probably need a small rotary auger of some kind if the clog is in the "P" trap. If it is further out you may need to find another access point.
1834093
The cobra works best on larger lines. So long as the bends are in the same plane as the flat of the cobra, it will go through it. The cobra is a hand held (cannot be attached to a power tool) pipe clearing tool which can do excellent work so long as the line is a larger pipe (such as a 2-1/2" or larger ID). It has the advantage of giving you the ability to 'feel' a clog, and you succeed by basically 'pounding' your way through. As most clogs in household sewer lines are of hair, grease, and laundry lint, it will break though 90- 95% of the time. If you hit a solid bend it can't follow, you'll know it, as it'll hard stop, but you'll feel clogs `giving'. I would advise purchasing some heavy duty industrial grade pipe cleaner from your local hardware or lumber yard. It is usually sold in half gallon or gallon sizes. If you can get that down into the line first, allow it to work for several hours, and then use the cobra. Otherwise start with the cobra to punch a small hole through the clog then use the drain cleaner. The drain cleaner will not damage the cobra by my experience to date. ALSO, once you do get the line open, pour as much hot water into the line as hot as your water heater will deliver it as a finale wash. Be sure to rinse off the cobra, wipe it clean, and oil it after you wrap it back up. Note: This is dirty, mucky work; you'll need gloves, clothes you can get filthy, and goggles if you work with the chemicals. ALSO, vent your basement (sewer area), as the chemicals can react strongly to clogs and produce un-breathable gases. Conclusions: the Cobra is an effective pipe clearing tool, but not the only one available. Complicated piping with bends in several planes require a rotating cable style of sewer cleaner, which you can usually rent in either power driven type or hand operated (this is what professional plumbers and the Roto-Rooter guys use).
1834094
Kathleen, this product won't be a good fit for fixing your problem!! Reason being is that it's a flat and will not spin like your thinking. Your better off going to home depot and picking up a cheap hand held drain snake that you can rotate with one hand as your holding the housing with another!
1834095
No, this sewer rod "snake" does not connect to a drill. You simply uncoil the flat rod a little at a time while shoving and pushing it through the pipes. It does work very well.
1834096
Search this!!! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NFO528/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid;=1388283532&sr;=8-3
1905189
If your asking like where to drill the hole for the waste line (black hose) then all you do is position the r o where you wand it, then run the black line to the drain pipe, you want it at least 6" from the bottom of the pipe where it lopes cause water stays in there, so just go as high as you can to where you can drill a hole, it comes with the kit to adapt black hose on pipe,, and ofcourse the other hose(white) hook up to your cold water, you mite have to go to Home Depot to get a fitting, I did cause mine was different size, only like 3$ but others then that that's it, run the blue line where ever and turn on and enjoy
1106992
Yep - we have a hose hooked up to the back of ours that is feeding directly into a drain in the basement. Works great.
722377
All this does is pump a little water back into the pipe when needed. the pressure of the water going into the pipe is only slightly higher than the normal pipe pressure. Don't see how this could damage anything. I have had one for a little over a year and am happy with the results. The only recommendation I would have is to shock mount the little motor so it does not resonate on the wood or whatever it is mounted to in order to make it as quiet a possible. For the very short intervals that it is pumping, you may hear the pump but it is much quieter than the waste water was while it was going down my drain.
2070162
Not silly, I had the same problem. I assumed it screwed on and off, it doesn't. You have to pull it straight up off of the rubber fitting. Then when you reinstall on the sink, you push it back down into the disposal an tighten everything around it. Drove me nuts until I figured that part out.
737672
It isn't set up to be used that way. It could probably be adapted, but I suggest you look for something already powered for significant safety reasons. Powered units, in my experience (I used to own a rental company), won't open a drain any better, or faster, than a manual unit with a hand crank. Any binding and the powered units have a tendency to twist part of the auger off in the pipe.
203250
The drain connects to 2" pipe, either PVC of ABS. Be sure to use an appropriate cement - either PVC to ABS od PVC to PVC
1912828
The out put pipe is 1 1/2 90 degree elbow and fastens to the disposal with supplied flange. If you need a different connection I would think a good plumbing shop could help you solve your problem. Good luck
522009
I have to agree with the other replies you recieved. If you have the "hog ring" style (round C shaped spring around the square shank) it's going to be tough. Not Dewalt's fault. I have had air tools for years with the same setup. You want the socket to hold. So yes, place the socket on the floor, line up the square and press down hard. Getting it back off is going to take some wiggling for sure too.
4718
No, it should fully drain away. Perhaps there is something wrong with the connection, or the pipe is blocked?
2078893
I agree with the previous comment in saying there is something larger stuck in the pipe. I have had some success at clearing a pipe by reversing the suction using a shop vac. Meaning, hook a shop vac hose up to the wall outlet of the central vac. You probably have to use some duct tape to seal that connection then turning on the shop vac. If you're lucky you may suck the clog backwards into the shop vac. I've also used an electricians "fish tape" with some success, depending on where the clog is located. Good luck.
1070205
Hi' If you own one I feel sorry for you, but if you have a basement in your house keep it there it will be fine if not unroll the hose from the reel then you have to work fast plug it in and turn it on at the same time squeeze the trigger on the wand that will purge all water in the pump to the hose, then shut it off. look and you can see a disconnect from the hose reel to washer disconnect it then with some help have someone squeeze the trigger and hold it above their head and slowly roll up the hose the water will drain out you should be good to go you could also lay washer on its back and pour RV antifreeze down the hose connection with it running and squeeze wand trigger and pump thru the system but that is a bit over kill.
1689940
I have a 3/4 inch pipe coupled to mine and tried to stall it by gripping with both hands. Couldn't, it had too much torque, but may be too small for your job. Ernie Bruce
1704813
It requires at least two holes for the copper connection. It is designed with out a drain stopper control push/pull rod, so you need to change your drain to a pop up. If you do not change it, you will have no control over your drain stopper.
1545970
No. This will not bend conduit / hollow metal pipe. It will only bend solid metal.
1772467
The pressure builds up until you press down on the end that goes to the drain... Plus if it is clogged, the pressure builds up from the seal of the end where the rubber is. It didn't really work all that well for me..
319571
all you do is put plumbers putty under top flange , slide it through sink tighten nut and washer from bottom , unscrew tailpiece out of drain put plumbers compound on threads and tighten . the drain is a push to seal and push again to open drain , top cap also unscrews