connected fine. The huge flaw that turns me against this ...
350545
Works ok, connected fine. The huge flaw that turns me against this mouse is that the power switch does Not work. Itks far too loose, and sliding it either way produces no results. I cant even tell if it's on or off because the laser is invisible. Its probably on, because my battery ran out within a month.
1820947
This will reaffirm what others have written: the device is flawed but functional.  First the list, then a discussion:

POSITIVES:

-- Easily set up.
-- Plays music from any bluetooth device.  (Haven't tried it on older devices.)

NEGATIVES:

-- On most transmitting devices, the volume needs to be turned way down on the device to keep from garbling.  That requires you to turn up the volume on your stereo.  Which is a problem because:

-- An unspeakably irritating (and LOUD) musical beep announces when a device has been paired or disconnected to the receiver.  (Why that's not a delicate tone instead of a fanfare is kind of a good question.  Bad design!  If your phone rings while you're playing music, and if you've turned your stereo up to compensate for the low volume necessary on your transmitting device, be prepared to win your local sitting high-jump competition.)

-- There's a constantly flashing blue light.  You can tape over it, but why design it in the first place?  Should flash when pairing, be steady when paired or in standby.

So as to the garbling: if my transmitting device is set to normal volumes, it sounds like a blown speaker or amp-tube.  Lowering stereo volume doesn't fix the problem, so it's in the signal between the phone and Bluetooth receiver.

Given that my other Bluetooth audio devices play cleanly at normal volumes, I'm not sure why that's the case, but it's clearly related to overload in one of the circuits or even in the transmission.  Amazon makes it difficult to get into the chassis, so I don't know what sort of electronic guts are in the receiver.  I'm guessing there's no audio buffer of any kind, just a Bluetooth receiver hitched straight to the audio out.

That's a fairly irritating thing.  While I can lower the volume on the device to get a playable signal, I'm quite sure that's just a function of Amazon trying to keep it on the cheap.  But having turned the volume way the hell up, pairing or unpinning devices are announced with a bizarre and irritating and LOUD trumpet fanfare.  What genius decided that was a good idea?  Call it the vuvuzela effect: it's a noise that makes you want to kill somebody.  A nice soft bell-tone would have more than met the case.

Other than that, you plug it in, pair it according to the very simple instructions, and go with it.
4472730
Spotty with the connection, but I would perfer a laid down version instead.
3295543
It works fine, unfortunately the cable sheath is pulling free from the connector and exposing the actual cable. This will ultimately more than likely lead to a complete failure as the integrity is compromised. Have the same issue now with the 6-foot version of this cable. This is a simple design flaw ... an unfortunate one.
1012092
Overall the phone is pretty good for a version 1 product.  It has the battery life (1 1/2 hour talk time) and tendency to get hot that other reviewers mention, but these are not deal-killers for me.  The issue of most irritation is that if you leave a hotspot even momentarily (ie. go to another room that does not have good signal strength) and then return, it requires you to manually reconnect to the Wireless Access Point.  This means that as you move around your environment, you have to keep checking your phone, lest you walk through a dead-spot and it disconnects and remains disconnected once back in an area of strong signal.

It has a menu option for "Auto-connect" and with this checked, when you turn the phone on, it indeed auto-connects.  I called Netgear support and spent nearly an hour with a very friendly Indian man who after consulting  several supervisors eventually determined that the issue I was experiencing was simply part of the design and that I should either manually reconnect each time or toggle the power.

Unfortunately, for many people this will be a deal killer - since the phone will not reliably be logged in even in an area with strong signal (even if you designate that network as "Preferred" in the settings).  If you move around  - from office to office etc. (which is the point of this WIFI phone - otherwise buy a $15 USB headset) and not diligent with reconnection,  the phone ends up being disconnected more  often than connected.

A major limitation on an otherwise good first attempt.  Hopefully they will release firmware that addresses this shortcoming.
3799086
This is actually a love hate relationship. The one device I wanted to connect does not. I want it to connect to my tablet, Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 (WiFi). However, the only device it connects to is my phone. It shows the hub and recognizes (and manages) the attached dongles: SD cards (HD and XC), WD Passport drives (120 gb through 250 gb USB 2.0 and 500gb through 2 tb usb 3.0), several flash drives (1gb through 250gb). I can manage them somewhat awkwardly with the FileHub plus software suggested by RavPower. Which installs just fine onto my phone.

HOWEVER,
Since the only use I have for the hub is to move files from sd and compact flash card to to passport drive I don't want to manage the process with my phone, I - want - to - do  - it - with - my - tablet. for this I'll need a powered usb 3.0 hub with at least 4 ports (no problem). However the problem is the tablet I have (Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 circa 2014) recognizes the hub, but nothing else. the FileHub Plus software only works on my phone and I cannot determine if there is a version that works on my tablet. The description planely states: "Storage Backup: transfer files between sd cards ,usb drives, hard disk and your devices(phone/tablet/computer) to free much more space up for your devices." All of which is true except for "tablet". I can live with the ancient technology, the awkward management software, I can live with the phone only management device, the eccentric English of the user docs, I can even live with Chinese as the first language choice on the login screen to the management software, in fact I can live with the hub. But I will not give it a five star review unless there was something else to choose from that was worse

Instead of a sd card reader only slot just put another usb port so I can cable or adapter in any sort of reader I need. Maybe RavPower ought to be thinking of a usb 3.0 (or 3.1) port, then they'd only be slightly behind.
2127895
On initial installation, worked fine and seemed to have potential.  But after that, I could not re-connect the majority of times that I tried.  I assumed that if you got in your car with the Bluetooth on your phone turned on, the app would connect and automatically update the data.  Sadly, that never occurred.  If I pressed the reset button, sometimes I could re-connect, most of the times not.  See the attached error message that I really got sick and tired of seeing!  Gave up on it after a few months.
3424763
The biggest problem with this product is that everyone can hear what you're playing.  I got it so I could listen to stuff while going to sleep, but that won't work when my wife can hear it when she's laying next to me.  Other than that, it's great.  But that's a huge design flaw.
471079
Unreliable with certain connections, mostly my Power Mac G4 and PS3. Linksys e3000 router achieves reliable gigabit connections to the same machines over the same cables.

Turning the systems down to 10/100 allows a connection, but if everything is left on auto, they report no physical connection with the switch. I'm guessing it has something to do with the eco-green-low-energy-cable-length "feature" they're hawking on the page. Yes - we wouldn't want it sucking up three watts ALL the time just in case we might want to do some networking once in a while. Since it's a "dumb" layer two device, there is no user configuration available, and no way to tell it to just work without the apparently untested energy voodoo.

My conclusion - OK for a desktop setup and uplinking to decent equipment on the backend, but don't let it near long or wall-installed runs. It is inadequate for infrastructure; look for other brands.

--Update--

Turns out I had misread the keystone jacks I had installed in my walls, accidentally producing crossover cables (T568A-T568B) between the clients and the switch. I'm guessing the failure to connect at 1000 Mbps had something to do with a conflict from auto-negotiation happening simultaneously at both ends. Even though it should not have caused a failure (gigabit equipment is supposed to auto-detect crossover cables and adjust), I was going to chalk it up to "my fault" and come back to change my rating, but then the switch suddenly died. So the two stars stand. Performance was good, but it has an auto-negotiation flaw and it died on me.
4856244
Being a seasoned computer professional I thought that for me such a banal addition would be a snap. Well, it was not. Let me correct: it still is not, I am still in limbo.

Now in 3rd day I still cannot get the DAP-1522 to talk to my DIR-655, rather I talk to D-Link support. Here is why:

The Push-Button connection did not worked. The DIR655 kept blinking blue light and than it stopped. On the DAP-1522 the blue light is still on.

The "Manual Setup" connection was equally short living.  To that end you need to connect a cable between the bridge and router.  Otherwise when you type [...] (removed by Amazon and replaced by the dots! And so we do not know anymore what name that was!), the browser forwards to some scavenger web site by that name. Also note: Should you change the name of the device, use that name in the process, not 'dlinkap' as suggested in the manual! A small issue "forgotten" in that DLink's manual.

Once connected using the cable to DR655, I used browser to set the SSID, but the only button visible was the "Save Settings"! I tried to change the menus, investigate but the device only went into hang, browser said "waiting for dlinkap" etc, etc... It is difficult to recollect details of the many hours of "fight" with this horrible device.

Finally after I managed to enter our SSID and the security model using the "Install Wizard," I hoped for a moment there for a success. But the device still would not connect to DIR-655. Even worse, after these operations I could not connect directly to DIR-655 any longer, unless I unplugged the connection to DAP-1522. Otherwise my system popped warning about a conflicting IP address on the network. What a disaster. The message was: "192.168.0.1 says 'The Network connection seems to be down. Press OK to try again.'" Of course pressing on OK did not helped at all. The message just reappear.

I am very disappointed by D-Link here, they used to be better, DIR-655 is a robust workhorse. I read these positive reports here about DAP-1522 with some astonishment and wonder what went wrong in my case?

I have found a perfect solution to the problem: Pack it, ship it back, forget it. I will rather make a hole in a wall and install a cable to the other end of my house.

And so I live happily ever after!
1067537
I have officially given-up on my search for a working wireless range extender. First was the Linksys RE1000, which suffered from the fatal flaw of being hard-coded to ONLY extend channel 1. Unfortunately, all my neighbors use channel 1, while my wireless lives on channel 11. So, that product was a no-go for my particular infrastructure. It may well work for those who wish to extend channel 1, but I am not a member of that group.

Next came the Amped Wireless SR10000 Smart Repeater and Range Extender. Much potential, except for a fatal flaw of its own: you HAVE to use the DHCP:AUTO setting, allowing the device to obtain its own IP address from your DHCP server. Now, that doesn't sound so bad in itself, but using that AUTO setting also enables the SR10000 to be a DHCP server, which I do NOT want.

If you set a fixed IP address, the device will NOT connect to the primary router in your network. It just shows a status of "Scanning" perpetually. I have NO idea what the one has to do with the other, but you simply cannot set a fixed IP and have the device work properly. As a matter of fact, there is a note in the side frame of the product interface that states (paraphrasing) "You are encouraged to use the DHCP:AUTO setting. Setting DHCP to any other setting may cause connectivity issues.". "May cause?" How about "Will cause".

I had upgraded to the latest firmware before I started with all this, and tried many permutations of settings.

I don't understand why wireless range extenders are so darn problematic. Set the IP, set the channel, set the wireless network security settings, and bada bing. Clearly, it doesn't work that way.

If I need a wireless signal upstairs, I'll just run a darn cat6 cable up from the basement through the laundry chute and setup a wired access point there. I know for a fact that THOSE work. I have wasted a lot of time on these wireless range extenders, and it would have been a lot easier to just run the darn cable in the first place. It's the least elegant solutions that work the best.
4902104
The product delivers everything I wanted when I looked at the specs and I like it a lot, however the rapidly ascending alarm to level 20 and not being able to change this level negates all the positives.  I read and re-read the instructions to look for this setting, then googled it, and was really, really annoyed to find out that it's a fixed level.

It's SOOOO annoying - the product could be great, but ends up being a failure because of this flaw.  Who wants to be woken up from deep sleep to being screamed at by the radio within 10-15 seconds?

If you want to use it as an alarm, I can't recommend it until this flaw is fixed.
3226549
These media connectors have serious faults. As it stands the v1 firmware is horrible and constantly loses connection with my WiFi and I need to keep power cycling the thing to fix it. I just tried updating to the latest firmware to see if this would correct the problem, and after applying the update, I can no longer connect to the unit.

This level of frustration should not be had with a product in which other companies make using theirs so easily. I am on the lookout for another AC media connector to replace the TWO that I have with the same problem.
2234409
I really like these OBD2 adapters and this one seems like a decent one on paper. It certainly seems like a good value for the money. Unfortunately it routinely disconnects from my phone, probably twice on a 30-minute drive. This is acceptable if you're using this to find fault codes, etc, but if you use it to track gas mileage using an app like Dash, then the interruptions totally mess up this tracking process. Perhaps I've received a faulty device, but nothing I do seems to get it to remain on for an entire trip.

*update*
Though still having problems with staying connected, this device found a fault code that my car was delivering mid-trip without turning the check-engine light on. Without this, I wouldn't have known I was getting that code, which turned out to be a substantial problem with the brake system. Why the CEL didn't come on, I don't know (it's functional), but this device found it, more than paying for itself.
901482
The power plug at the back of the contact is mal-contacted. The configuration process is painful. I tried wifi/ethernet configs on both Android and iphone, nothing works. Don't let me start with the app design. Definitely returning.
3182260
Just purchased this headset in Sep 2017.  While it has a low price and decent features, there is a serious design/production flaw that render it useless.  It simply has no RF shielding anywhere, here is my analysis as an electrical engineer.

Most modern DECT phones has variable transmission power to extend battery life while delivering long range.  When you are close to the base station, it would transmit in low power.  But as you get further away, the phone detects the change in signal strength and automatically start dialing up the transmission power.

Since the headset has no RF shielding, when you are talking close to the base, it works fine.  However, if you step further away and the phone goes into high power mode, the headset will pick up the RF signal, and there will be a very disrupting hum on both end of the line.  It is so loud that people on the other end wonder if we were disconnected.  This may explain why you see very different reviews, some complain about the hum, while other say it is great.

But the reason I have a cordless phone is the freedom to move away from the base, if you have a home that would allow you to walk further away from the base station, or one with dense walls, you will very likely experience the hum/buzz.

I experimented with shielding while preparing this review.  You can shield the entire cord, it helps a little, but the speaker and microphone remain unshielded, and the hum will not go away.  To experience it yourself, simply walk away from the base station and put the phone close to your headset speaker while wearing it.

Based on various review, it was a good headset a few years ago.  It appears there must be a manufacturer change, or a material change.  In the process, someone remove the shielding (perhaps to cut cost, or an oversight).  Plantronics, as an headset specialist, should have the QC in place to catch this before shipping anything out to the consumers.

Bottom line, this is a flaw that cannot be corrected or overlooked.  I don't see how anyone will find this headset as usable or acceptable.  Pay more and shop elsewhere.  Plantronics has a broad product line, unfortunately, this experience tainted my impression of the entire brand and I will avoid them for all my future purchases from now on.

This is a glaring flaw rather than a hidden flaw, I hope Plantronics, like most good manufacturers, are monitoring our reviews, and would make the manufacturing change to make it right for existing and future customers.  It is not worth it to allow such an inexpensive product to ruin the brand reputation.
1108430
!!!Read this if you cant get the hub connected to your wireless network!!!

* Change the password! Are you serious? Sadly, yes I am! I spent days trying to figure out why I couldn't connect to my WPA2 encrypted network, turned out it didn't like my 9 digit password because it had funky characters like *@!%^&, I had to change it to a simple password and BAM! Connected right away using WPA2. No idea why this occurred, this wasn't in the sparse documentation, and tech support couldn't tell me this either, they're utterly useless, I read it in a troubleshooting forum.

* You can use Mac address filtering! But wait? The instructions tell you you cant? I know, but it works, you just have to first connect the device without filtering to pickup the Mac address.

* Hub only connects using 802.11 G, not N or AC, so if it won't connect, you're not close enough, this was also not listed anywhere that I could see, but yes, this is the best they could do, Im surprised because I think you would be hard pressed to find ANYTHING new that uses this old protocol.

I ordered this to monitor my garage door as I have a rental unit downstairs and my tenants occasionally leave the garage door open all night. It works, but not great, like I said, weak Wireless G connection, and the phone app is a bit clunky and delayed. This will be a solid unit when they upgrade the WiFi to N or AC, then you can count on a reliable connection.

Bottom line, if I could do it over again, I would have just ordered the door monitor (CHAMBERLAIN CLDM1 UNIVERSAL GARAGE DOOR MONITOR) and used my regular garage remote to open or close the door, thats all you really need, and they are only $20 as opposed to the $140 this unit cost.