(UPDATED) RUINED 2010 FORD F150 ECM (BUYER BEWARE)
352596
If you want to gamble on whether or not this product will work , go right on ahead and buy this. Simple to follow programing instructions indeed, but in the middle of the programming it wiped my factory programming and rendered my vehicle unless. No drop in voltage to cause an issue , no cycling on and off of the key to disrupt programming, and definitely not faulty connections . So now my vehicle has to have it's ECM flashed. That's a tow truck, and labor costs at the dealer.  And to think I was excited when this showed up . PIECE OF GARBAGE (UPDATE) THE DEALER TRIED TO REFLASH MY ECM, BUT DETERMINED THAT IT IS COMPLETELY FRIED. $800 FOR A NEW ECM, AND IT'S ON NATIONAL BACKORDER.
3831747
I have a 2006 BMW X5 (4.4L V8)  with 98000.  About 1000 miles ago I began to notice smoke coming out of my tails pipes upon takeoff if I would be idling for a bit, or at a stop light for an extended amount of time (usually about 4-5 minutes of idle/stop time).
After taking it to the local dealership for a diagnostic, it was confirmed that the valve stem seals needed replacing, along with a power steering return line, which was also leaking and is unrelated to the tail pipe smoking.  They also said that another unrelated issue, the vaccum pump was leaking and would have to be replaced.  All in all about $8300+ in repairs.  FYI, the vaccum pump, aka Hydraulic boost pump, has been a recall issue with this era of BMWs due to a faulty seal inside of the pump.  Unfortunately, my X5's warranty has expired, so I'm stuck out.....that's until I found this under Scottie Kilmer's youtube video featuring AT-205 (not sure of the title of the video, however I think is something like "fix oil leaks fast".).  Since all of my issues deal with some sort of a failing or worn seal (seal is the key word), letting liquid go into parts of the engine or simply escape, when it's not supposed to, I had to try this as last ditch effort before shelling over $$$$ to the dealership.
I placed an 8 ounce bottle with the engine oil, and 3-4 ounces in the power steering resevoire.  not even 200 miles later, I'm happy to report that NO SMOKE, nor Power Steering fluid leaking from any lines, nor any funny noises when pressing the brakes!!!!!!!!!!  This stuff simply works on rejuvinating seals!!!!!!!!  This is not for leaky gaskets, unfortunately.
I will put more into my other vehicle as preventative maintenance to the engine oil, power steering and transmission oil.
3312744
Truck had a engine knock which ford garage refused to fix. I just traded it in on a new GMC Sierra last week. It was the 5.0 v8. 4 different dealers. Just watch 5.0 engine knock on YouTube to hear em. There's many people's videos. Oil changed at dealer every 4k.
3261750
I am sure this must be an ok product because I read all the reviews here before my purchase. But, I cannot get mine to connect to my car. Hence the one star.  I will happily supplement this review if someone is able to tell me where I went wrong. I put details in, below, because they have helped me before in reviews I have read here.

Ultimately, I received an error message that said something like "no connection to ecu;" and I continued to have a blinking blue ecu icon (looked like a usb memory stick) after following the included instructions. The satellite icon had come on blinking, then stopped blinking and later went out (I think). And the blue phone icon came on and stayed on.

Car is a 2012 Lincoln MKZ with 3.5 L engine. My phone is an Android v 7.1.1 Motorola Moto Z Force Droid. I am using Torque Lite that I downloaded to my phone yesterday

First, I turned car ignition on. Then inserted ELM327 Wifi into OBDII socket.
The ELM327 blinked one blue and one green light. Then no lights. Then the red light came on and stayed on and the green light blinked nonstop.

On my phone, I opened Settings, then Wifi, then selected VLink as my wifi source. Then I opened the software and configured it for Wifi. I opened the Device software setting but there was nothing to select, but the instructions said that that was ok. Then I used Device Manager to turn the software off, and then turned it back on. Then I got the blinking ecu icon and then the error message that it was not connecting.

Help!
3209309
My 1998 Ford Expedition started having the following symptom at 25,000 miles:  from a dead stop, there was a hesitation immediately when I stepped on the gas pedal.  It was brief though worrisome in that it was a deep hesitation.  However, the motor never quit during these hesitations.  The problem got worse over time and by 100,000K it was doing it about every trip.  I did LOTS of research on what the problem was and decided to replace the fuel pump.  I took it to a trusted shop and they replaced the fuel pump and sender unit with this one from Bosch.  I didn't buy the OEM Ford pump because it failed once and has a terrible track record for all the issues that hundreds of other Ford owners have had similar to mine.  My mechanic also sent the fuel tank out to be cleaned.  He said that when he drained the fuel, it had no debris inside.  And further, the sock filter on the old fuel pump was not contaminated with trash.
I've put 20,000 miles on this new pump and my vehicle hasn't hesitated even once since the swap. For the record, my mechanic charged me $350 labor for the swap with the fuel tank cleaning.
4124556
Ye, best fix was replacing that cracked transmission line! Verify problem before buying solution! All Lucas stuff is good though.
1308112
WARNING!!!!!!!!! I feel it is important that I post this review detailing a potentially unsafe and possibly deadly problem with the Performance Tune that is included with this tuner when installed on a 2011 Ford F250 Super Duty with a 6.7L Diesel. This problem also occurs on a friend's 2014 F250 SD with he same engine. THIS IS NOT a review of the seller. The seller performed as promised without issue.
After installing the Performance Tune in my 2011 Super Duty, the engine will shut down on hard acceleration. It does not matter the speed or RPM. This occurs, without fail, each time the truck is accelerated at WOT. On the 2014 SD, the engine will actually shut off requiring a restart. THIS IS POTENTIALLY A VERY DANGEROUS CONDITION. I have worked with Kevin at SCT Tech Support and, while we have proved that the problem is with the tune, he nor SCT can provide a fix for this problem. Even after installing the most current tune pack, the problem still exists. Kevin was very helpful in troubleshooting up until the point that there was nothing left to try. At that point, he maintained the corporate position that I would need to go back to the seller to get a refund. The problem is that several weeks have passed while trying different things suggested by SCT and waiting for the latest tune updates. Keep in mind that every other tune including stock works without fail. It is the Performance Tune that is the problem. I have even offered to take my truck to SCT and have them drive it to see the problem. They have not responded. Most likely, they know about the problem but just don't know what to do about it.
 If I were looking for a tuner for this specific vehicle I would suggest looking at anything besides the SCT. If you still want the SCT I will sell you a very slightly used one that will double as a brick.
1481663
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 that was jerking when slowly accelerating around 45 or 50 MPH.  I had the spark plug changed about 30K miles ago, so I thought I'd give a new coil pack a try.  For the cost of this set, I thought I could not go wrong.  This was the first time I had ever changed coils out before.  It took me about an hour and a half and a few minutes watching a YouTube video, but I got it done.  The hardest part was reaching the coils in the back with my big hands and the small area to work in.  I am happy to report that my truck now runs smoothly without the jerking.  I am very happy with the results.
Update:  After about 3 weeks of use, I've already had one ignition coil go bad.  I was just driving at highway speeds and noticed my truck started missing.  I eventually checked the codes and found cylinder 1 was missing.  I had to buy one ignition coil from the local auto parts store which actually cost more than all 8 of these coils together.  Problem solved.  I have to change my review to 1 star.

Update:  I contacted the seller, and they shipped me a replacement ignition coil.  So at least I have a spare now.  It's been several months since I installed the coils. All the other 7 ignition  coils that are still installed are still working great.  Updating the rating to 3 stars.
297335
Every time it rains the bed of the truck gets wet. Also i drove about 2 hrs with the lid in the up position and it has rubbed the rubber so that it looks like it is almost cracked 50% through.  I have emailed bakflip 2 times with no return emails.  I have now contacted them online about it and was told they can't help and I will need to call 1-818-365-9000
223841
Worked, but was not what resolved the F35/Suds issue, adding how we fixed it in case other people have the issue.

Our machine: Whirlpool Duet WFW9600TW01, bought with the house, 6 years old (6 months owned by us) and had some repair work just before we acquired it.

There are lots of potential reasons for the F35/Suds error message and most can be found on the other reviews here and on Google. For us none of them worked. First we cleaned the discharge pump area under the washer, and when that didn't work we ordered this part. Installed it but we still had the issue. Then we cleaned the drain pipes, cleaned all the inlet hoses and all the interior hoses, still got the error message.

Finally we found a result for a Sears website where someone suggested the capacitors in the CCU may have blown. For some Whirlpool Duets the CCU is at the back of the machine, not so for our model. It's located near the front to the right as you face the machine. Unwired everything, pulled out the CCU, checked it and indeed the two 10V 2200 micro Farad capacitors looked like they had blown (tops were convex instead of concave).

Got a soldering iron from RS and some 16V 2200 micro Farad capacitors and replaced them. Put the machine on the debug cycle => Went past C00 for the first time and completed the debug cycle. Now it's going through the clean washer cycle successfully.

It's possible to pull out the CCU without unwiring everything, so if you're running out of ideas pull it out, open it up and take a look. If in doubt about replacing them yourself then ask a friend who has some soldering experience, or take it down to your repair shop. Replacing the capacitors should cost a lot less than a new CCU!
77775
<div id="video-block-RAD0CDWJ1F3RD" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/917%2B31ORhhS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61LdlwTthKS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;Ordered this product and it was installed by a ASE certified mechanic from a national automobile repair chain. It should be noted that the part came with the float arm attached on this particular unit even though one of the images on the listing shows that it needs to be assembled first. Mechanic cleaned out tank prior to installation and verified part was the correct one for my truck before installation. The part was installed and 5 gallons of fuel was added, poured in from a 5 Gallon tank I brought with. The ignition was turned on and the fuel gauge showed just over one quarter of a tank. This vehicle has a 35.7 gallon tank so this reading concerned me.  After driving for a few hours I noted the tank level dropping just slightly however when the gauge read just below one quarter I noted the vehicle starving for fuel as I accelerated around a corner. I had an additional 5 gallon can so I continued to drive in an attempt to confirm fuel low indicator would still perform correctly.  At about 1/8 of a tank the vehicle was starving for fuel during acceleration while not turning and then within minutes even light acceleration would cause starvation. I was able to idle into to a gas station but the vehicle was essentially "out of gas". The Low Fuel warning message never displayed on or chimed and although close, the needle never indicated true "on the line" Empty (see image below) After discussion with several ford technicians I have been advised that during normal driving on a level surface the low fuel chime and display warning should appear when there is approximately 2.5 gallons of fuel remaining in the tank. The gage was functioning normally as well as the low fuel chime and message display before this fuel pump assembly was replaced.  I am sure of this because it had worked several times in the past including the day I dropped it off for the fuel pump assembly replacement.  I was able to get 35.2 gallons in when I filled the tank and the truck has performed normally since the fill up as well as it indicated just over the Full line. I am including a video that shows the following: During acceleration the tach rises to about 3800 rpm indicating hard acceleration then drops suddenly indicating the demand for fuel was greater than the supply available. I kept my foot on the accelerator at the same position, during this time (due to inertia) when starvation begins, fuel rushes back to the fuel intake and acceleration begins again with similar results.  Please note you can pause the video and see that the fuel gauge shows approximately 1/8 of a tank of fuel remaining. The movie and image were taken 12 minutes apart. As I said I have completely fueled up and at the time of this writing I still have over half a tank. I will update this review if it begins to function normally however if there is no update, that indicates I'm still driving around with this piece of junk and still running out of fuel before the gauge even gets close to empty. I regularly tow a camper that changes my fuel mileage drastically depending on road conditions idling in traffic and hills so watching the trip odometer cannot be used as any indication of how much fuel is left in the tank. I do understand that I can return the product but if I had the extra $200+ labor to put another one in I would not of purchased the $69 unit in the first place.
2838002
I had to update this to a one star review.  This unit slowly started failing, but could not pinpoint it as such with my voltmeter on the bench.  The issue started as an intermittent slight misfire at idle, between 800-1000 rpm about a month after install, without the engine light coming on.  My car has OBD1, so not super easy to read real time data through the computer, saw nothing strange. Issues ended up getting slowly worse at idle and some while driving and the engine light came on.  This was 4 days ago, so I went through my computer and was getting a random misfire code, so inspected the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires that were installed new at the same time as this coil in late January (about 2 months ago).  Went so far as to spend $40 at the dealership for the factory plugs, no change.  Next morning the car ran fine, assumed it was a loose connection from the coil to the distributor cap.

Today as I'm driving the car starts and drives decently, as the issue was intermittent and haven't returned in the last 4 days,  then instantly it began misfiring badly on the highway at 65mph and loses power and I begin to decelerate.  I limped it to the shoulder, misfiring so badly it just shuts down on its own, pop the hood, and smell burning electrical and see the coil pack smoking. Saved the old coil in the trunk in a box, popped it back in and it starts!  Ended up grabbing a used OEM coil off a junkyard car that didn't have cracks, purrs like a kitten again!

BUYER BEWARE, this is a cheap unit that may or may not work!
1829501
I have a 2011 ecoboost F150 Platinum (115,000 mi). Could not get the 4X4 to engage, kept getting the "Check 4X4 alert" with the wrench icon on the dash. Replaced the IWE solenoid on the firewall first ($25...easy and cheap) but I still had the same problems. Replaced the transfer case shift motor next and that resolved my problems (this was also easy). It goes into and out of 4X4 Hi/Low with no problems noted. Exact fit and it took about 45 minutes to swap out. Also, this was a great price. The ford dealer wanted $350 just for the part. I was too scared to ask him how much for labor.
2854510
I have  a 2013 Ford Flex with 66k miles. Recently, while driving, we would lose power in the engine and the car would go into 'limp mode' barely able to make it to the side of the road. Turns out the problem is common on a whole range of Ford vehicles 2010-2013 range of years.

A computer chip in the throttle body will go bad and fail to properly sense the position of the flap inside the part that constricts air flow to the engine.

Buying this electronic throttle body will remedy the problem.

I give this product only 3 stars because it is priced so high here on Amazon. I walked in to my local Ford dealer and bought the part directly from them for half the price listed here on Amazon for a remanufactured throttle body. The part from Ford was brand new, too.

Installation of this part is super easy on a Flex and other Fords. Just 4 bolts. You need to disconnect the battery while you're working on this part.

After installation, keep the positive terminal connected to battery and ground terminal off the battery. Arc the ground terminal to the positive to clear out the car computer. Then reconnect the battery and start the car. Let it idle for 15 minutes while the car computer 're-learns' the new throttle body calibration. Then drive the car gently for 30 minutes as it figures out the calibration of the throttle body in relation to the gear changes. From there, you should be good to go. There is an excellent couple of videos on Youtube by a Ford technician who explains all this well.

The attached photo shows carbon buildup that you can clean from your old throttle body-- only focus on that if you're getting rough running in idle. Power loss at higher speeds will indicate bad computer chip inside the throttle body and you need to buy a new part.
4727198
I ordered this unit and ended up returning it.  Not for defect per say, but I realized that Delphi is the only manufacturer at my time of purchase (Oct/2011) that has corrected an electrical problem with this model fuel pump.  It was $30 more when I purchased and included the new wiring adapter harness with a little heavier gauge wire.  So, it won't be exactly plug-n-play for this reason and will require minimal wiring work splicing it in. The original design flaw was inadequate wiring shortening the life of the pump.  When I look now at the product image I can see the difference on the connections.  Btw, this part is for the four door model GMC Jimmy and there is a different model for two door model.  For goodness sakes, on an ugly job like this, stay away from the cheap crap garbage that may not even make it down the street as I do know some horror stories.
641479
Not the merchant's fault, but this is the WRONG ECT sensor...it's THREADED. Mine seals with an o-ring and is retained in its hole with a wire clip...NOT THREADS. Somebody (resale industry-wide) needs to do research on these items as far as equal replacement and fit.
The tie breaker on getting the correct one was based on "new style" Sonata body, or "old style". WHAT?? Who thought that was good criteria to go by???
2620667
exact replacement for the 3.0 Nissan motor. For those that are not mechanics and are replacing this yourself, do not listen to what is on you tube about removing the electrical part from this and using the original one from your car. Those videos are wrong. The electrical motor is the part that is almost always bad with this component. Its sad that there is that kind of mis-information out there for people trying to fix their car... but I see it all the time. Be sure to disconnect the battery for a minimum of 30 minutes to clear the ECM and have it relearn.

Also, there is a known ECM issue with the 2001-2003 maxima that can burn or pop the chip in the ECM that routes power to the idle air motor. If your car falls into that year range it would be very wise to get a new ECM or send yours out for repair.