Hako Patriot Replacement with small Modification
350026
Purchased these bags to use in my Hako Patriot commercial vac. With a small modification they work perfectly. Excellent, quality, bags.
1303678
Warning:  doesn't fit 320 without disassembling and installing in the wider spaced handle.  Apparently, and I didn't pick it up in the reviews that there is the wide handle (earlier version from Weber) and the much narrower later model.  This Q handle light must be modified, but once done, it works as new.  One might imagine the light would be a bit much, but in fact it is a handy accessory.  My first one melted from high heat, so one must be careful with high heat grilling. Use a grill cover because rain and snow leak into the assembly and it's difficult to clean well enough that the batteries make contact and the lights remain function.  A lot of caveats, but it works well within these parameters.
864728
I bought this carb for my kohler 8hp on a Troy Bilt wheel horse tiller.
It fit and operates just as an original. But I did have to take the advice of another purchaser's comments on here and do some simple modifications for everything to attach just like an original. Drill out the hole on the throttle arm to accept the original linkage. Easy. Then take the choke bar out of your old carb and swap it into the new one so your choke works like original. Otherwise it may still work, but it will be backwards. Lastly, to mount your original air cover, the top, center screw hole is okay, but the two side ones line up with two un-threaded blank holes, just slightly drill those out a little bigger and thread tap them to accept the mounting screws. Seems like all of this is a PITA, but it really wasn't that big a deal for me. Especially if it saves a couple hundred dollars in getting a kohler or Walbro OEM carb.
3944045
I just installed this lock. It seems to work well but it needed some modification.

As I had read in another review, someone said the spring on the sliding latch broke. What actually happens is that it loosely fits into the holes on both sides and flops around. It worked for a few cycles and then the spring pops out and the slider won't be held closed. I fixed this by making small hooks with the spring ends that fit into the holes. The hooks secure the spring in place but take a bit of effort to get them into the holes (since they are now bent and not straight). It has been working just fine now. I later thought that an easier fix might be to just remove the spring and stretch it sideways to expand the loops so that the spring would fit tightly within the space and wouldn't jiggle loose.

I noticed that earlier gripes about rattling have been addressed by the manufacturer adding a black sponge block with a ziptie--people were using a kitchen sponge. They also well-lubed the slider which addresses potential sticking issues. Hopefully they will modify the spring quickly since it's really a big problem and easily fixed.

One other thing: when I mounted the unit with the single bolt it works ok but I found that tightening it securely resulted in the tailgate handle sticking. Apparently the plastic handle assembly warps a bit and won't move freely. I used plenty of LockTight on the bolt and tightened it just enough so that the handle wouldn't bind.

I have the double cab. Definitely run the cable on the passenger side to the center pillar and connect it the the wires there. A few inches away on the floor is a rubber grommet that is perfect to pass the wire through water tight and right over to the pillar. Just drill a small hole (maybe 1/8") and then poke it through. There is a wire harness that runs up near the frame from the tailgate to the front; it is perfect to ziptie the wire to keeping it safe and secure.
3567902
These were ordered because the OEM cables pulled through the door handle on my Mazda B4000. The image is exact. The installation was quite a chore. I removed the upper and lower door latched to clean and lubricate. That is when I realized the unique one was specifically designed for the upper latch. The items must be installed completely over the vinyl sheath of the cable end and they are very, very tight fit. The lower cable end snapped in place on the door latch perfectly. The upper cable end slipped in place once it was aligned on the door latch. The door handle is where the work got complicated. The door handle is riveted in place and I didn't want to drill out and replace the rivets. The repair would have been much easier if I had. The original cable ends were held in place on the door handle with guillotine style clips. The inner wall of the door covers the inside of the handle so opening the guillotine style clips was accomplished with a scribe from the outside. Each cable end had to be held in place while I blindly performed MacGyver style maneuvers to close the guillotine style clip using a hooked scribe. Once closed the cable ends were held in place just as the originals. I was able to complete the repair without drilling out the door handle rivets, but it did take time and unusual dexterity. I should never need to replace these again. The other door perhaps one day in the future. Purchase these items knowing this is not just a simple snap in place. You may prefer to drill out and re-rivet the door handle in place to access the guillotine style clips on the inside of the door handle.
4942227
So this is not made for the Kel-Tec KSG, but I rolled the dice anyway. I ended up adding a pretty thick o-ring between the middle 2 ridges and that appears to (1) make the plug a bit wider so tighter fit and (2) it appears to kind of hook around the molded bolt protrusions in the hollow grip area like a shelf. I have not shot it yet, but it feels and seems very firm this way. Without the o-ring I would say it is to loose and with items in the grip pushing down, it would fall out. The fit looks clean, good, almost factory legit. The thick o-ring is the key. YMMV.
923719
I just refurbished my 10 year old Weber Q 200. I bought this ignitor kit, a grate, a burner and some new hubs all from Amazon. Apparently Weber made some improvements and modifications to various parts.  I noted the burner fit the same but was a better design. The grate was exactly as the original. This ignitor is also a better design but did not fit my grill. The red button mechanism in the original, fit through a hole on the front of the grill and screwed into a threaded PVC tube to hold it in place and act as a conduit for the wires. The newer model snaps into the hole and forgoes the conduit. I was unable to use the new red button as it did not fit the original hole.  So i used the old button assembly and connected it to the new ignitor. Fortunately the button assembly still worked perfectly. The actual ignitor, while different from the original, did fit my grill housing and is actually a better design. In the end, it lights the grill perfectly and I am very pleased with the refurb.
4060932
These were a good fit for my barbeque and was a good replacement for the previous shields which had rusted through. These are very easy to replace. All you have to do is take off the old ones and throw them in the recycle bin and place the new ones in between the grooves on the top of the bar that runs perpendicular to the shield. It seemed like it is an aftermarket replacement, because it wasn't an exact match. However, the model number was shown on the listing. My previous shields did not have the slits along the side, but it does not seem to make a difference in my grilling.
4143723
Quality of the materials in on point. Fitment is problematic. This piece will require slight modification to fit right. The holes for the clips will need to be elongated slightly and any material that hangs off the side will need to be trimmed off. There are also some clip nuts that slide on to this part. The material is not thick enough to securely slide these on. They will slide off during reassembly. Placing some paper or something in-between the clip nuts holds them in place until the screw is installed. Other than that it's almost as good as OEM at a great price. The part was made in Taiwan.
795251
For 'regular' fan, not 'clamp type'.  Fit with minor modifications
3889040
It wasn't as nice as the original. But works... . I would like to see a modification to it by connecting the two ends together at the end of the sight. It would not pull apart and fall off as easy.
4364961
Not completely the same as the one that originally came with the generator.  Easy to install but the choke moves all over the place unlike the original one that is either start or run.  I have modified the choke a bit so it stays in either position like the original.  The generator is back up and running so I am happy about that but it was annoying to have to make modifications.
475941
Worked great with my Redcat Everest 10! Please note that this isn't an exact fit and required a significant amount of modification of existing parts with a Dremel tool.
639475
Works as advertized, but did not fit into the shrouded key socket on my 2006 Ford Ranger. I was able to modify the plastic portion of the key by careful filing away the front portion with damaging or wearing the internal circuit or metal blade portion. My local Ace hardware store cut the blank at the same charge as a regular house key (around $9). Ace sell a chipped key without remote for around $59, so even with modification and blank cutting this works out a good deal.
1944836
First off, I'd like to point out that I didn't perform the complete assembly, as my son wanted a two-tone controller, using parts from the original. Essentially, the only parts I used from the kit were the upper and lower shell halves, the back and start buttons, the clear surround for the menu button, and the battery pack. The menu button surround from the MS controller wouldn't fit in the HDE upper shell without modification, and the MS back and start buttons were too large as well. I also needed to cut the openings for the bumpers a little larger, as the MS bumpers were sticking. I'd also like to point out that I used an original white 360 controller for the modification, in case there are minor structural differences between older and newer controllers.

As for the parts from the HDE kit, they seem just as sturdy as their Microsoft counterparts, but they just don't fit together as well. I had to shave down a section of the lower shell along one side to eliminate a small gap between the two halves. It's probably a bit of nitpicking on my part, however, and likely not something which would bother everyone. On the other hand, the battery pack from the kit fits very snugly into the controller, even better than the original pack on the MS shell. With the original controller, if it was bumped against anything or jostled too hard during use, the battery pack would jiggle a bit, causing the controller to turn off. This seems to have been eliminated with the new shell and battery pack.

Overall, I'd have to say that the kit, despite some minor issues, is worth the price. My son's expression when he saw his completed Frankencontroller was priceless.
4698694
Work great but too hard to find original side rail plate, I have to do some modifications on another side rail to make it fit
1858239
Worked fine with some modification to existing system as this was smaller in length that the worn out one it replaced!!!!