Better then the Kreg Deck Jig
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I built a 6x40 Farmers Porch using Trex Select square edge deck boards. I was originally going to face screw the boards because I didn't want to get tied down to a special invisible fastener system that forces you to unzip your deck in order to replace a board. But then I decided to investigate the Kreg / Camo option.  Kreg jigs are good but their deck jig does not compare to the Camo in terms of speed and ease. The big advantage of the Camo is that it allows you to screw both sides of the board with one placement of the tool. I bought my Camo deck tool at Home Depot because their price was actually a little cheaper then Amazon. I bought the 1 7/8 inch camo deck screws there as well. The screws came with extra star driver bits so don't waste your money buying the extra bits. I didn't even wear out one bit in the 240+ square feet of decking I put down. If you use the Camo jig then you have to use their screws. However, I didn't have any break or strip out on me during the install so they are worth it. The jig has to sit flat on the deck board for the screw to enter the board at the proper angle. I found a small flat bar was helpful to pry the deck board against the spacer  and the previous board.  Either way the tool is user friendly and youll quickly develope your own technique. After a few hours of use you'll need to tighten the knob on the side which sets the jig to your board width. If you let it get loose then the angle of the screw will be off but you'll figure that out immediately. The handle is designed to align the jig NOT help you get off your knees. The square edge Trex Select decking is composite and took the screws extremely well. I don't know how a cedar deck board would handle it but I tend to think there would be a lot of tear out. Bottom line, the tool performed exactly as advertised and minimized the amount of time I had to spend on my knees. If you are putting down composite deck boards then don't hesitate to buy and use this jig. I will be using it again.
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UPDATE:
Well I finally got to the point in my big project where I needed to use this jig.
There are a few points I will mention:
1. I really don't know HOW you would use this effectively if you didn't have the
  special Kreg jig vise-grip.  Seems to me absolutely necessary for efficient usage.
2. For joining a 2x2 to the top of a 2x4, drilling the pocket into the side of a 2x2 is not handy.
  They need to sell a narrower 1-hole version for that.
  As it is, it's a bit tricky to get one of the sides lined up in the center of the 2x2.  Only
  one of the 'edge holders' is on the wood, the other is 'floating', or you have to get a
  separate clamp to hold 2 boards together with the butt ends matching, which ends up
  being an ok solution, but is as I say above, not 'handy'.
3. One time the plastic 'clips' that hold the jig based at a certain wood thickness let go
  and I didn't notice it immediately and I drilled a couple holes with the wrong setting.
  After that I was careful NOT to touch or push on that part of the jig and had no further issues.
4. I was using the jig on pressure treated wood, and had to knock the sawdust out
  of the jig between each drilling.  A couple hard taps against a hard surface were required,
  otherwise packed sawdust often remained in the jig, and the next drilling would then take
  a lot more pressure and time.
5. It's not an issue with the jig, but FYI: the Kreg washerhead screws do not 'hold' the square bit as
  well as 'normal' washerhead squarehead screws do.  The bit has a major tendency to jump out
  unless you run the gun slow and steady and careful.  I think this is due to the fact that
  the kreg screwhead has blue paint inside the socket which doesn't allow the bit to seat as deeply,
  and the washerhead at least *seems* to be thinner than a 'normal' washerhead screw.

END UPDATE

I thought some other Kreg Jig noobies out there might find the following info useful:

I bought this jig to join 2x2's to 2x4's (which are both of course actually 1.5" wide).  That is the largest size wood that this jig is recommended for.  I drill the pocket into the side of a 2x2, and attach it to the thin edge of a 2x4.

When I got the jig, I immediately tried to set it up for joining 1 1/2" wood.  The jig itself was easy to set.  Couldn't be simpler.

But when I went to set the depth collar on the drill bit, I got confused...
The drill collar guide has markings on it which show where to put the collar for each of the main wood thicknesses.  Every wood thickness has it's own mark, EXCEPT the 1 1/4" wood thickness, and the 1 1/2" thickness.  There is one mark for both of these.  ALSO, that mark sets the collar SHORTER than the mark for 1 1/8" (and much shorter than the 1 3/8" mark)!  I couldn't figure it out...

BUT it turns out this is exactly correct.  This 'strangeness' is caused by the fact that the recommended screw lengths change.  For
example, when changing from joining 1 3/8" thick wood, to joining 1 1/2" wood, the recommended screw length goes up by 1/2".  So
with only a 1/8" thicker piece of wood, the pocket can't be drilled as deep, or the screw will poke thru.  And it is simple coincidence
that the 1 1/4" pocket and 1 1/2" pocket are drilled the same depth.

The R3 Jr. manual is VERY minimal, but the K3 manual (which you can find online as a PDF file with a little googling) is much larger and goes into detail on how to determine screw lengths and shows diagrams on why the pockets are drilled to the
depth they are.  It also has a LOT more info on how to join different types of surfaces (mitered joints, etc).
2251898
i had to buy this from Amazon since in Kreg's website they do not ship the K5 inside the case.
I really like this jig, it comes in a nice case to keep everything together, the top is kinda fragile, but it simplifies the time and the way plan for your projects.
It comes with the basic tools and few screws, so its important that you also order plenty of screws for your projects.
2779173
this jig, makes joining a breeze. no need for clamps etc.
after some initial "blue plastic" was removed, the jig works perfectly with a  cordless drill.
i will need to buy another as a gift.
3053512
Have you ever had the experience of putting something together (using glue and nails) and then discovering that either you made a mistake or wish you had done it differently?  With the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig this problem could be a thing of the past.  Most of the wood working projects I do are first time events for me and being able to pre assemble to see if the results are what I expected is impossible with the nail and glue method.  Make a mistake and tear it apart and in most cases you wind up destroying most of what you were working on and have to start over again.  Not so with the Keg Pocket Hole Jig.  I assemble my parts first using just the washer head screws, once I am satisfied with results I dis-assemble, apply the glue and then lock everything together with the screws for virtually indestructible joints.

 This feature alone makes an investment in the Keg tool worthwhile but like they say in the TV commercials, "Wait there's more".  The Kreg K2000 ProPack which I purchased is extremely versatile allowing you to make an incredible assortment of joints.  The instruction manual is thorough and easy to understand. Part of the manual is used to illustrate the different joints and how to fasten them together.  Kreg's web site also has even more information to help get the most use out of the tool.

 The overall quality of the tool is first class.  I bought my first  Kreg Pocket Hole Jig about 10 years ago at a wood working show and only  used it occasionally.  The difference between the newer and older versions is like the difference between a Model T and a Ford Taurus; sure they'll both get you where you want to go, but the newer version does it with a lot less effort.

 My only regret in purchasing the ProPack is that since seeing the features on the newest version of the pocket jig, that was supposed to be available sometime in July, I now wish that I had waited.  But then again since I have found myself using the ProPack K2000 more and more as I discover it's versatility I just might fit the newer version into my budget.
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Did the chisel thing and to be honest, it takes a lot of skill and time, and in the end, mine just do not look that good.

I am pretty handy yet some skills take time to learn and using a jig in my case yielded professional results that meet my somewhat self driven for perfection standards as well make the process go much faster and in turn overall more fun.

This jig and the Lock-set jig I bought from Woodhaven are high quality products that I have no trouble recommending.

I have 15 doors to replace in my 1980s home.
So far I have replaced 3 and this jig is helping to get the job done in record time with 100% quality results.

The choice was pull all the trim and entire existing door & jamb and then replace it all as a unit, or just buy the door blanks and make mortises for the hinges and lock-set. I don't like to waste time, effort, money, or materials. I could not see throwing out good wood fro the sake of maybe making things a little easier.

With this jig, the Woodhaven 8500 Mortise and the Woodhaven 8570 Lock-Set jig, the job is about as easy as it can get.
(You will also need a router, in my case I am using a Dewalt DWP611 Trim Router.

Before you get started, just lay your jig on an existing mortise to ensure you have the proper jig.

Get yourself a nice 6 inch piece of oak or other hardwood to attach to the jig. It is used for alignment and clamping to the door.
Most hardware stores have 1x2 strips of hardwood for $5-$7

Your first door will take the longest as you get everything set-up and get used to the "process".
Now from the time I lay my old door on top of the new, I can have teh new door all cut, mortised and ready to go in about 20-30 minutes working at a nice relaxed enjoyable (non-production line) pace.

Using the old door as a guide, lay the old door on top of the new blank and orienting the tops and bottom correctly.
I align the TOP edge since the bottom is where you will want to trim if needed.

Tip, (Mark the old door 12 inches up from the floor on both the right and left sides before removing. Transfer these marks to your new door's bottom section. From these lines measure down 11 3/4 inches to mark your bottom cut line for the new door. This will ensure a constant 1/4 inch gap at the bottom of the new door even of your floor is not 100% level)

Using a straight edge, simply transfer the location of the old door's mortises and striker plate locations to the new door blank.

Now just set your jig in place and align to the marks you made.
In most cases, the "narrow width" of the mortise should only need to be set and verified once.
Clamp your jig in place and using your router and bit mortise out the area ensuring you remove all wood and follow the jig for nice smooth corners. You would have already set your depth.
Tip (To set proper depth. With your jig installed, lay two hinges flat on your jig then set the base of your router on them, Now lower the router bit till it bottoms out on the edge of the door and lock in place. Remove the hinges and you now have the perfect depth set.)

When done, turn off the router before lifting or just be sure to lift straight up to avoid cutting the jig.

Now set a hing in place and you have a PERFECT mortise for your hinge.

When you go to hang the door, be ready for some possible "fine tuning" to get it to close properly.
I have existing doors that at times of year need this so not a huge issue.

If you did things right you will be pretty darn close and the time you saved using the jigs can now go into those finishing touches to get it to line up perfect.

If you have doors you need / want to replace, I highly recommend this jig.

I also highly suggest a self centering drill bit to drill the holes for your hinges.
They are worth every penny when it comes to this type of work.

I have NO association with Woodhaven, Dewalt, or Amazon........ Just wanting to share what has worked for me for others that may be thinking about diving in.....
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Get this if you are getting the Kreg pocket jig.  Use it first to clamp the jig to the wood piece you are drilling, then second be sure to use it to keep the two surfaces you are joining flush.  The peice you are joining has a tendency to rise about 1/32 of an inch if not clamped well.  This works great for that.
1036632
I have been meaning to build a deck addition at the back of my house for a while now but kept putting it off, and I was not sure I could do it - I am not very good with my hands. I did a lot of research on how to build a deck but there seemed to be a lot of mathematical stuff to figure out, and I was never any good with numbers. I was a little skeptical about purchasing this product at first. I like to see reviews first but it was reasonably priced so I decided to give it a try. I decided that even if it turned out to be junk, it was worth a try for the price. The plumbatube made my life a lot easier. My deck project had a few hiccups, but I think it would have had a lot more if I hadn't purchased the plumbatube. Would recommend this to any homeowner who has been putting a deck project off for fear of screwing it up or worrying if your wife is gonna tell you it's not level.
603162
Just started playing around with this jig, self teaching myself.  Thank God for YouTube videos.  I'm sure the full size jigs have their niche and probably work a little easier, but so far I believe this will work fine.  You just have to utilize clamps to hold things down.  Not too difficult.  And the price difference makes this a nice choice.
2914815
My husband loves this hole saw.  He says its much better than using jig saw.  He made 4 boards as soon as he got it and he cut all four holes in birch wood like a champ.
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I researched this for too long and did half of my project without it. Just buy the jig, you will love it! I assure you this will be your favorite accessory you ever purchased.

And don't forget to grab some extra screws!
4766107
I have used the matrix drill to do several projects now. I used the reciprocating saw attachment to cut log cross sections for cup coasters (4 to 5" wide logs. The attachment did get hot with extended use and you need to buy better blades than it comes with.  I used the router attachment to roundover edges of a small boat deck I built. The router attachment also did a good job chamfering the edges of pine wood planks I glued up to make a coffee table.  I have only slightly used the jig saw but it seemed to work well. No problems with the drill at all but I have only drilled and screwed into wood so far.  I have the impact driver but have not used it yet. If you have all of the tools the attachments represent, then you don't need this. If you don't and you are on a budget or live in an apartment like I do and have limited space, this is a great buy. Im sure the tools are not as good as their dedicated tool counterparts but they get the job done and I have been pleased with their results. It's better than I thought it would be.
3271151
I love how easy these DVDs are to follow and understand. The Kreg jig is one of the easiest tools that I've ever used and these videos show some very useful and practical applications for the jig.

Thanks Kreg!
2565208
Buy the extender table you will need them, anything over 2 ft long you will need it, then  buy  2 outfeed roller tables in and out  unless you can deal with bad snipe, this thing eats sand paper, a lot of it, saw reviews on adding a hook and loop pad to the roller from grizzly, did that today and it seems a lot better after about 15 passes, hasn't shredded it yet. The finish in oscillation mode with 80 grit is very very smooth and no scratch marks, really amazing with such a short stroke, the power at 110v is fine, suction with a vac is great, size and weight is impressive, just tthrows sand paper and its not cheap, you will not need fine grits, on 80 grit leaves about a 150 finish, I believe the problem is when the paper is used it slightly streches and the wood eates it very quickly on the motor side, thats where the slack would spin to on the drum, then, the paper overlaps itself and burns,
You cant return something this big so the best bet so far is the drum hook and loop conversion from grizzly, about $55. Worth it so far, this kit is for a double drum and comes with 2 rolls of 120 grit and the adhesive hook pads, the angle you need to cut is the same angle as your precut paper, then continue to use the sandpaper hold downs on the drum. I will update later, so far wish I had just got a larger surface planner,
It will put a flat surface on a 60 in x 22 wide table,
After installing the grizzly hook and loop kit on my 22~44 and put 120 grit hook and loop paper, today i sanded 50 walnut  cutting boards,
It did an outstanding job the sandpaper never shredded or came loose, smooth finish, the paper is still good, very happy, after that I sanded at pieced together table top of walnut and cherry 22x69 x2 in thick outstanding job,
You Will need one  in and out feed roller tables for this, no way you can keep it from snype must be smooth travel in and out.
Last note the oscilation even though is very short leaves a perfect finish, i sanded the walnut cutting boards with 220 hand sander after 120 in the 22x44 and there was no difference, the drum left it that smooth with 120 grit

Chris
3049306
This jig is simply amazing at removing the complexity (and errors) in making dovetail joints.  I would suggest getting the template 'kit' that comes with the bits and the dvd but the bits shouldn't be too hard to source elsewhere on Amazon.

As to the complexity of making the main jig as described in the DVD?  Its not that difficult but its also entirely not necessary.  The DVD also shows making a jig using the template you're purchasing here and three pieces of MDF or plywood sandwiched together...  this secondary jig is under $5 to make and allows you to use the template with a router and four clamps.

This jig worked so well that I went out and bought the last couple from my local Woodcraft to give as gifts because its well worth the money to anyone that's tried to handcut dovetails because they weren't ready to spend $150+ on some other jigs.
1856438
I bought this to use with my Kregg R3 pocket hole jig. Works perfect and makes the job easier. Solid tool, well built.
1137714
Excellent jig well made and at a reasonable price it doesn't move around on the table with the rubber legs and you can get a very tight weave without the adjustment moving on you - make sure you read the instructions for the proper placement of the jig in regards to the buckle size you are using - as far as the instructions for the bracelet weave watch a Youtube Video it is a lot easier - I'm very pleased with this product 5 stars!