The only thing I have an issue with is when the cover is removed the electrical testing procedure can't be done because the holes aren't marked like the oem icemaker
590152
It makes ice, electrical connections are compatible obviously.  The only thing I have an issue with is when the cover is removed  the electrical testing procedure can't be done because the holes aren't marked like the oem icemaker.
2005693
Our Kenmoore fridge Ice maker died after a year we bought it, did not have time to fix it for 2 years, finally take the effort to investigate: 1st thing to check if the ice maker valve is working, the valves are located behind lower right side, you have to remove the panel (dont forget to unplug the fridge), remove the screw mounting the valves, swapping the water dispencer and ice maker terminal , pressing the water dispenser you should see /feel ice maker is filling up. This indicate ice maker valve is ok.  Checked Youtube for ice maker removal instruction, found that the icemaker control gear is broken, from the broken part, locate the p/n and find replacment part from internet. At the end, it is safer to pucrhase the complete unit as we are not sure what else is bad.
The original part is of better quality and is heavier made than the replacment. The thin metal wire that come with the replacement is not needed for our fridge. However, use this bar to set the ice making on/off switch pointing down (to make ice). The switch is located on the control part of the body, facing the ice tray.
Most difficult step is removal of the connector, need to wiggle quite a bit to get it loose.
4 stars because of lesser quality than original part.
Time taken - half hour.  Need 1/4 socket.

Update - Ice maker decided to quit on May 2015. (Purchased sep 2012). This time bought another from ebay (Same company) with a 3 year extended warranty. Hopefully this time it will last longer.  <Reduced 1 star for the durability>
4491484
Three years ago I installed one of these and it recently failed.  The adjustment screw on the side slipped and the freezing tray overfilled.  This could have been from me stuffing  the freezing compartment with non ice items.  The new unit works fine.  The first few hours were questionable. I had turned off the refrigerator while working on the installation.  Yes, it will not make ice until the refrigerator is turned on.
3010925
Works great! It just created a little mess because there is no shield around where the ice comes out of the machine!! Great but and very durabke
4219603
I read quite a few comments that other purchasers were able to plug this replacement unit into their existing trans wall plate and it worked perfectly.  In my case, it doesn't seem to be wired the same as the original unit and the compressor won't engage when the unit is set on cool.  So it's going to require a technician to figure out the wiring.
3453101
The ice maker tray flexes when dumping finished ice. After several years, the end spindle snaps off. A service call would cost a lot of money, as would a new ice maker (DA97-05037A). Thanks to Amazon, a replacement ice tray (DA63-02284B) is available. It is a bit tricky to replace. For the benefit of anyone attempting this repair:

1. Turn off the ice maker using the control panel button (typically inside of the refrigerator near the top).
2. Empty and remove the top freezer drawer. It makes it much easier to access the ice maker. Clean the drawer while you can.
3. Remove front plate from ice maker (if yours has one, mine didnt).
4. There is a small rubber hose running to the ice tray. This is the temperature sensor cable. The temperature sensor is held under a rubber block (DA61-01800A) at the end of the tray. Snap the cover (DA63-02183A) off the rubber block and remove the block and sensor.
5. Insert the sensor and rubber block into the new ice tray. Snap on the cover.
6. Remove the motorized unit (DA59-00294A) from the ice maker. There is a push-tab on the left side. Push the tab up, and the motorized unit falls.
7. Insert the new ice tray into the rectangular motorized slot. Be careful of the rubber hose running to the ice tray. Holding the ice tray and the motorized unit, align the ice tray spindle to the hole at the back of the ice maker assembly. Keeping the spindle aligned with the hole, snap the motorized unit back into place.
8. Turn on the ice maker using the control panel button.
9. Press the ice maker reset button. This is located on the bottom side of the motorized unit. Press the button for several seconds until the ice maker activates.
10. The ice maker will cycle through a process. Youll see the motorized unit rotate the ice tray, and near the end of rotation, the ice tray will flex. The flexing action is what ejects the ice cubes. Eventually, the flexing action will break something. Watch it a few times, and youll understand.
895909
I ordered this microwave to replace a GE Spacemaker II model # JEM31GV001. I had hoped it could be hung on same brackets as the Spacemaker II but it could not so we had to use a new installation kit. In addition this model's door is not hinged the same as the JEM31GV001 so that required additional work on the cabinetry. After doing all of this we plugged it in and it did not heat! In searching the internet it appears this is not an uncommon problem. Under the warranty GE is sending a repairmen to take a look at it.

In summary I cannot fault GE for the problem I had installing the new microwave but to go through all of that and have it not heat is very unsatisfactory.
869918
I purchased this item to correct an emissions issue that resulted in a persistent trouble code.  Amazon's price was, by far, the least expensive.  Certainly less so than having a dealer replace it.  However, there are a few things to bear in mind.  First, on the OEM manifold cat, there are studs in the outlet end.  Part# 16220 doesn't have studs, only a flange.  You'll have to provide nuts and bolts.  Secondly, the OEM heatshield doesn't fit on the new cat.  It does come with a built-in shield facing the engine, but none facing the radiator.  This may not be an issue, as the cat is much smaller in diameter than the OEM cat.  Thirdly, the OEM bolts that fasten to the heatshield, with looms for the downstream O2 sensor wiring, do not fit the mounting flanges on the new cat; you'll also need to buy the bolts, M6's (regular pitch) I believe.  Fourthly, there's a simple loop to mount the lower bracket to the engine block.  The OEM cat had a stud.  The loop didn't line up close enough, so I've not connected it.  It could be done with a little elbow grease (and another bolt).  These are minor issues, though, and the cat does seem well made.  Time will tell if it lasts as long as the OEM version.  These cars seem to be hard on the manifold cat.
1262254
I had inherited my Frigidaire freezer and it was running all of the time and I could not adjust the temp. Also when I opened the door, the alarm would pulse on & off and shut off the inside light. Every place, forum & blog I looked at said to replace the module for about 90% of the problems. I popped the new one in & the freezer works like new.
542644
I decided to spend a little more with this oem unit.  Works great and I am happy I did. One thing is if you  have an electric eye type switch, remove the circuit board and jump the connector to be sure you have full power to ice maker.  Mine had 34 volts, not 115.  Circuit Board had to be replaced.  Jumping at the unit did not detect this.  It is a bit harder to find this procedure on utube/internet, but it is there.
4228215
The only thing I am not happy with is that you cannot get the the ice shaved as thin as they claim - the tension knob has to be a couple turns up from the thinnest it will go before it will even begin to shave the ice and then it's really more like a sno-cone or slush not true Hawaiian shaved sno.
641280
This kit has the two circuit boards needed to replace the left and right side icemaker optics in applicable KitchenAid/Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators.  My 7-year-old icemaker quit, and it turns out this is the only repair kit I needed to restore its functionality.

Replacement of the two optics boards took about five minutes: three screws on each side of the freezer compartment, disconnect and remove the optics panels, remove the screws holding the circuit boards in place (one on the left panel, two on the right panel), remove the circuit boards, and reassemble with the new boards by reversing the process.  You can watch this step-by-step process online -- just search on YouTube for the part number, 4389102.

The kit also supplies a wiring diagram and diagnostic instructions for the new circuit boards, and a suggestion where to save them in the base plate of the refrigerator along with the other diagrams stored there.

I have had this optics kit installed since June 29, 2012.  The icemaker has been functioning like new since then.

So how do you know if you need to replace the optics?  Do a diagnostic test:

Check that the icemaker on/off switch (right side of freezer compartment) is ON.  Look at the red status light next to the on/off switch.  You should see the flight flash twice and repeat the double-flash every second.  Now close the left side flapper and don't block the light path from the right side where the red status light is.  The red status light should stop flashing and come on steady. If it is still flashing, your optics may be blocked -- or they might be bad, like mine were.  You might want to wait 5 minutes then unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds to reset the ice maker control board and try the diagnostic again.

If the light still won't come on steady, you can check the rest of the icemaker by bypassing the optics system.  USE CAUTION, as the optics connections are live -- unplug the refrigerator for safety while bypassing the system.  First remove the right side optics panel (3 screws).  Next, disconnect the cable plug from the refrigerator going to the optics panel.  Now jump 2 specific connections on the refrigerator's plug (I cut a large paper clip and insulated the middle for this purpose).  The correct 2 wires to jump are next to each other and may be identified by color: black, and black-with-white.  Turns out my model used different colors, but I found online that the correct wires can be identified as the ones immediately below the bottom-most hole on the plug where no wire is connected (there are 4 wires next to each other filling up the rest of the plug below the hole).  I found a description and photos of this bypass operation on the ApplianceJunk (Appliance Repair Help) website by Googling the three words: 4389102 jumper paperclip (4389102 is the part number of this optics kit).  If the only thing wrong with your icemaker was the optics system, your icemaker will eventually make ice again (24 hours or less -- mine took about 2 hours).  Note: once the icemaker starts, it won't stop making ice while the jumper is in place, so don't let the icemaker keep going too long or it will overfill the bin and cause problems!
2543942
Holds ice for what it says and maybe even a bit longer. Four out of five because the drain plug is far from perfect. I have a feeling I will need to have it fixed/replaced within the year. Other than that, absolutely love it.
2621439
Ended up it was the water valve that failed but the mold in my old ice maker was flaking off so it's good I replaced it. The new ice maker works right with no problems. Sears wanted $250 for the same product. No wonder they're going out of business.
1859437
It seems I bought the wrong one but was able to make it work. Part is just fine. If you are having a problem with ice thickness or it falling these machines have a bad problem of the plate solder breaking and the plate not cooling everywhere the same or warming up enough everywhere to harvest the ice.
750544
I found no markings or damage to my cover at all.  The only thing I would chane is the size and placement of the drainage holes since they do not work as they are.
3445892
The machine is doing the job, but could be improved and made simpler. My following notes is coming from experience when I was working overseas in the middle east in the gulf area ( UAE- Abu Dhabi ) I had a westinghouse german made machine, reason for not able to bring it to the USA is because the deference in power supply, they have 220 volt supply. My notes are :-
1- It doesn't need double cover, because the heat lost from one cover could be generated from the heating coming from the base, and the loss is negligable.
2- the single cover should be made a curved top so the acumulated moisture inside the top cover slides to the sides and doesn't drops back on the yogurt cups.
3- the little timer could be either in the bottom or outside wall so the base should be enough for 8 jars and not 7 and by that will raises productivity to 15%.
4- The maching otherwise is doing the job, but with my above notes will make it more popular.
5- Question:- Why can't we put the lid of the jars while processing during the heating hours? Because with my westinghouse machine we used to put the lids shut during processing.

Thanks for allowing us to give our feedback on the quality of the machine.
Fikrat Romaya