PSA: Don't Use Saddle Valves! Get this Instead.
590176
I don't know why the other reviewer said it doesn't work well, what about it?

I found this or the 90 degree version of this is absolutely perfect to hook up a fridge, steam humidifier, or reverse osmosis water line.

For the love of God don't use saddle valves! Get one of these and there is no soldering required. There can still be trace water in the line, whatever and it'll hold. Not so with soldering!

If you are an semi-handy homeowner and don't want to pay a plumber to come solder, get this, a 1/2 x 1/2 x1/2 Sharkbite tee, and a small piece of copper to make your jut out. I used a 3" piece that I cut myself. Then all you do is make two cuts in the copper pipe with one of those cutting wheels, slip the tee in-between those two cuts (I like to assemble the Tee, extension piece, and this on the ground), and you have a safe, leakfree, no hassle supply for your water line.

I also want to add that this looks great, it is great that it's a quarter turn, and it feels extremely well built. Price is comparable to a compression or screw on type shutoff so why bother with them?
4350096
Use this in our boat slip. One hose supplies inside water, the other for outside washing. This past weekend was the first use (11 Oct 15) and it leaked no matter how tight I hand tightened it. I can see why others broke the connection to spigot because they had to use a wrench to make it tighter.  However, I also bought at the same time from Amazon a package of Gilmour hose washers. These are slightly wider and thicker than the ones that came with your Y-valve.  I replaced the washer and all is fine.  Now easier to hand tighten with no leaks.

I will update on durability next year, but the all brass construction appears to be high quality and machined well. Significantly better than the cast zinc crap I had before.  No issue turning knobs. Very easy after a few cycles without spraying any lubricant. My only other concern is the rubber grip. I had this type on other Y-valves and the rubber to metal grip wears away and slips. But brand new, no problem.

The photos in your Amazon site are clearly CAD/CAM drawings instead of the real thing.  Gives the sense of hiding something.  In real life, it looks good, why not use a photo of the real thing.
3652818
I used to wrap the spout in sullifane wrap, which needs constant replacement.  If I didn't the valve would size up from residue drtng inside.  The even worse issue was fruit flys, which loved that beer residue.  It was unfixable even after trying every common trick they would still thrive.
These inexpensive covers fixed all the issues instantly and effortlessly.
1379741
I have battled with the hope that my shiny pretty brooks b17 would somehow magically be comfortable. Nope. Not happening. Forgive my being graphic but riding that saddle for anything over 10 miles was like getting kicked in my lady parts with a steel toed boot. After actual research (instead of vanity), I settled on this saddle and it has saved my cycling joy! I took it out for a 30 mile ride today and had absolutely no discomfort! If you have problems with chafing and pinching around your lady anatomy this saddle will relieve the pressure! I doubt for short commutes I'd even need bike shorts anymore. This saddle is awesome and looks damn snazzy.
1115396
Flexible anode rods are all pretty much the same. The great part of this kit is the drain valve parts. Mysteriously, water heaters (even top brands) come with screw-down valves, which have a small twisty path the water has to flow through and a gasket that has to compress against a seat. Sediment can't get through that twisty path very well, and what sediment does get into the valve keeps the gasket from seating, so your drain valve leaks after a few uses. I have no idea why they put these valves on since they are totally useless as a sediment drain valve.

The replacement valve is this kit is a top-quality brass full-port ball valve. When it's open, there's a straight path for the sediment/water that's as big as an open pipe. When you close the valve, the ball turns in a slicing motion that seals even if sediment is still present (which it probably won't be... the flow through a full-port valve is very strong!). The side of a water heater tank is heavily insulated, so you need a short length of pipe (called a "nipple") to screw into the tank and then screw the valve onto. That's included in the kit, and it was the perfect length for my water heater.

Most ball valves have pipe threads or solder connections, so you need an adapter to be able to connect a garden hose. The valve supplied in this kit already has the hose thread, so no adapter is needed. Plus, they've included a brass cap (on a chain so you don't lose it). This is an important safety feature. With the cap on, if someone accidentally turns the valve handle, or if some kid turns it, hot water doesn't come rushing out right at them.

Also, the valve handle is nicely marked "DRAIN VALVE". A small feature, but nice.

According to Internet videos, the old anode rod can be difficult to remove. Mine is 10 years old, but it came off easily with an air-powered impact wrench I bought from Harbor Freight Tools for under $20 (on sale and with a coupon) and this impact socket&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Performance-Tool-M811-1-2-34-Dr-1-1-16-34-6-Point-Impact-Socket/dp/B00067G31W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Performance Tool M811 1/2" Dr. 1-1/16" 6-Point Impact Socket</a>.
2872495
Love this saddle so much that I bought another of the Imperial B17 for my other bike.  Like a previous reviewer stated, don't get it wet.  Obviously, it is leather, and if you ride around on it when wet, it will warp.  I have had my other Imperial for over 2 years.  You tend to slide a bit in it (which is why I love it).  I think less friction is best.
4370397
A couple of days ago, I might have written a 5 star review for this valve. But, I never actually purchased the valve, itself. However, I did purchase a system for doing herbal extraction, using flammable gas as a solvent, that incorporated 2 of these valves to control the flow of the gas. A couple of days ago, I was using the system, and when I opened one of the valves to release butane under pressure into a chamber, its shaft move out of the valve body by appx 1/8", and liquid butane escaped. Fortunately, this didn't happen indoors, and I was able to shut it down and isolate the line that had leaked. As there was a slight breeze that day, no catastrophe occurred. But, it easily could have. Im posting this in hopes of saving your life, if you use this valve for gas!
4434817
This worked great on my kz440. I tried 2 different styles of valve compressors, but nothing really worked until i used this.

The people who say its bending when they use it don't know how to properly compress a valve. You need to give it a gentle tap once the spring begins to compress to unseat the spring from the keepers. Failure to do this will either cause the tool to bend or your valve to bend, be glad that this tool bends if you make a mistake because its easier to fix than a bent valve.
4694366
At less than half the price of the hydrologic valves(20 bucks for a cheap plastic float valve, wtf?)  I was skeptical of these but they work just as well.
However; there are 2 major differences:
1. The float height is not adjustable, so it can't me mounted vertically and be careful to mount it low enough that it won't hit the lid of your tank when its floating up/closed.
2. It has a compression fitting and not a quick push in fitting.
You can't simply loosen it, push the tube in and tighten it. You need to take the compression nut off of the valve, careful not to lose the little white plastic ring inside(compression ring, also called a ferrule). slide the compression nut onto your line and the slide the ferrule on behind that with slanted side facing towards the float valve and then push the end of the tube in to the float valve receiving fitting and tighten the compression nut. Might sound complicated but isn't and only takes about a minute and in my opinion is more secure/permanent/leak resistant than the quick fittings.
Hope this helps
3931510
<div id="video-block-R2087W42P05XNP" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1ZRF7uVb1S.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71zvugcvKlS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;I bought this long ago and had used like a month.

and kept it in the closet for an year.

now I needed it so I took it out and try to run it.

It leaks when I tilt it.

I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with it. but there's nothing wrong with it. no crack no bent at all.

Never buy anything from Hagen Fluval again.

Very upsetting with the horrible engineering.

===================

Updating, 1 to 5 stars.

It was my fault leaking when I tilt it.
When I setup the filter some water goes  into the holes at the top of the bottom container where the nobs goes in and tighten the head.
So that water leak out when I tilt. so if you see water coming out when you tilt it, just let it out until it stops.

And another issue was water flow gotten slow down.
I cleaned hose with brush and it flows 100% well.

Nice product to have.
2105503
Definitely a must have!  The quality on these valves (at least in AZ) is poor.  They last a couple years and break.  The new models are 1/2 shorter, so that makes it difficult to put it in my system without a retro-fit.  So ... buying spares!
4356243
This is worth every penny...  excellent v1 valve...
4595687
Our old bike pump sucked.  For a while, when the kids were little, all we had were the "standard" Schrader valves.  However as the family aged we fancy bikes with "Presta" values starting showing up in the garage.  I had always wondered what the little red "convertor" in the handle of the old pump was for.  Thank goodness I kept it all these years.  However it was a major PITA to use.  It was cheap plastic.  I tried metal replacements which worked better, however it was still a nuisance converting from one to the other.  There had to be a better solution.  So I searched for a new pump and stumbled across this unit.  It's super well built, metal and thick plastic.  The gauge is well positioned and easy to read.  There is plenty of hose for reaching around the bike.  The motion of the pump is smooth and efficient.  However these are all what I would consider "standard" features of a bike pump.  What I was drawn to was the valve attachment that did both Schrader and Presta valves.  Frankly I wasn't sure how this would work but I was willing to give it a try.  Honestly there wasn't a lot of instructions provided on how to use the pump head.  My son and I just had to figure it out.  Well I wasn't smart enough but you know these millennials.  They think differently.  Next thing you know he was pumping up his Presta tires and said the thing was awesome.  Here is the deal.  The way I thought it worked you stared with the clamp lifted, put the head on the valve and locked it down to seal and pump.  But if you try this you'll find the head won't fit on the value.  Well, you start with the clamp down (as shown in the pumps photo) and then the pump head fits over the valve.  Then lift the clamp up which locks the pump head in place and produces an awesome seal.  If I did a terrible job explaining this do a YouTube video search for "AerGun X-1000" and there a few handy videos that will show what I am talking about.  Either that or find a millennial to help you out.  Overall very pleased with the purchase.  The old pump was donated to Goodwill... worked great but the new one is... greater.
2921718
was going home from work &  front tire tube valve stem ruptured. Green goop didn't stand a chance sealing it. Six miles left to get home is a long walk. It was evening so bike shops were closed. Decided to go to Wally World and the only size on the shelf was 26 x 1.95, exactly the size I needed. Bought one box thinking $20 was for two foam rings. Got home and learned it's $20 for one ring. Turned out to be more than worth it.

Used two plastic bike tire remover tools (sold in pairs at your local bike shop) and a flat blade screwdriver to install the ring (first one is a challenge to install, last few inches of tire bead is the hardest. Be careful to not gouge aluminum rims with the screwdriver blade. Also, be sure to refer to the install drawing that shows the ring orientation - the tapered seam MUST point towards the rim and not the tire). When installing, take your time and think about what you're doing and all should go well. By the time you reach installing the second ring you'll be a pro.

Once installed, it feels like 65lbs of pressure - perfect fit ! Bought a second ring the next day. Now, no more flats and no more concerns about picking up goat heads, broken bottle glass in the street, etc and no more concerns about having to walk miles during a late night ride home from work due to a ruptured tube valve stem. Sure, you can always carry an extra green goop filled tube but that's extra weight. At $8 a tube (plus labor, inconvenience, etc) it seemed wise to pay $20 per tire ring to never have a flat again {8^D

If you ride a lot (I do 15 miles a day commuting to/from work) these rings are a blessing and your employer will appreciate them as well since you'll never be late or miss work due to a flat tire.

It's a great product, seems expensive at first, but well worth every penny once they're installed.

Buy them with confidence.
4560967
installed today 09/13/2016 - took 10 minutes - most of it removing the old valve. I'll post back as to the quality since quite a few customers have reported these things crap out early.

09/18/2016 - Noticed a high pitch squeal for the last 10-15 seconds before the valve off. I've adjusted the valve to fill less water in the tank. This valve is pretty ingenious since it allows you to control the water level with the adjustment knob ( Blue knob in photo).

More to come.
1422900
Got this for my Specialized Expedition Sport '15 bike. I mount at the angle where down-stem (handles) meets top tube. I had no where else to mount (I have a small-frame bike because I'm short =/). This is best option I could find that wasn't pannier saddles or a seat post bag (which don't work without extra attachments for seats with suspension coils).

CON: the 'leathery' material used to grip this to the bike breaks pretty easily when tightening. I had to super glue one end. Still works, but kind of sucks.

Top is waterproof! That's cool.

Contents Inside:
1x Topeak Alien II Multi Tool (in holster)
2x KMC Missing Link II's (in Alien holster pocket)
1x Small tire gauge pen
1x Portland Design Works shiny object CO2 inflator (best CO2 inflator btw!)
2x 16g CO2 threaded cartridges (one with a leatherette sleeve to keep hands from freezing)
1x path kit in side pocket of this
1x small rubber band type thingie used for mounting the type of headlight I use on bike
4115375
The ball valve leaks quite a bit.  The handle allows the user to slightly turn it past the "closed" position.  When you turn it all the way you think it's off, but it squirts water at a pretty high rate.  When you back the valve off slightly it seals.  However, nobody would know that and think it's closed when it's not.  So when you go to change out your washing machine hoses, and shut off these valves, you're in for a surprise.

Also, note that these are "sweat" connections in that you're going to solder the valves to a 1/2" pipe.  Unless you solder a small piece of pipe to the valve while outside of the box, there's a good chance you're going to melt the box.  Oatey should hire new engineers (they probably don't have real degreed engineers in-house), because the valves should have a much longer extension downward to facilitate installation with less risk of melting the box.

So what I did (before I discovered the valves were poorly designed and need to be replaced with real ones) is solder a 6" copper pipe to each valve, then soldered a copper union to these pipes as well as the pipes in my wall, then mounted the box, secured it, and then inserted the valves into the wall box and threaded the unions tightly.  There are no instructions of any use that come with this, so carefully visualize each step and dry-fit everything.  The instructions tell you how to attach the wall brackets and seat the valves in the box, but offer no instructions as to anything else or any cautions.  That's why I now avoid Oatey and try to buy good quality plumbing parts; it's not worth the risk to buy cheap when it comes to plumbing.

The wall box brackets are clunky to use, and are hard to adjust.  Do a dry fit of the box into your wall first, making sure your waste pipe and your valve pipes align decently well.

The box size and shape is really good; the spacing matches my existing conditions as well.  I wish another more reputable company made a similarly-sized outlet box from powder-coated metal, and made the valve/ drain locations interchangeable, and had hammer-arrestor equipped high-quality American-made ball valves.  I'd buy it right away (I looked and I don't see one that meets all of these criteria).