5.3 rough idle stalls 0300 code multiple random misfire
593405
I had a 0300 code multiple misfire detected, when infirmary started vehicle it would rough idle, as it warmed up it got better but initially starting it if you put it in gear it would fall on its face, basically the intake gasket was bad and allowing air to come in a lean out certain banks and cause the o300 code. I also cleaned my injectors and throttle body, and all the sensors as well as intake it was full of tar. It runs absolutely perfect now! Worth the money easy simple install! I recommend knock sensors and wire harness while your in there. Don't forget to re learn the knock sensors if you replace them !
2203768
on my 2002 gmc sierra my fan speeds starting to go out one at a time. replaced the resistor and fan works again
1505475
The critical part is diagnosing the issue. Fortunately, with some research I concluded I needed to replace the idle air control valve. This is about the easiest fix I have encountered. The replacement part was an exact duplicate of the factory part. Five screws and the old part was off.  Total time about 30 minutes. The best part is the new valve worked as intended and solved the rough idle, stalling and surging.
2546700
Was experiencing intermittent issues with car (Ford Fusion 2011 SE 2.5) failing to accelerate and stall for almost 2 months. The wrench light would come on. Cut the car off and back on and the wrench light would disappear.
The car would run fine for about a week or longer and wham it would not go any where until I cut it off and back on.
Notice the issue would only arise during acceleration regardless if the car was moving or a st a stop.
I would use cruise control while on the interstate and accelerate very slowly when coming from a stop to avoid stalling.
The last time the wrench appeared the check engine light appeared.
My buddy his code reader up and this the code: P2111 "Throttle actuator control system stuck open"
Did some research online and everything pointed to this part.
Look on you tube for video on how to replace the throttle body (super easy).
After replacing the throttle just let it run for about 15 to 30 mins in idle.
Go for a test drive and you're all set.
My mechanic told me to use Sea Foam to keep tjhe engine clean,
The car runs like new!
2794956
I should have bought two kits, Boot right up XMP  to 1866 no problem running stable. It would have been nice if the CAS was 7 or 8, but that's nit picking.
697347
The cable had to be trimmed down where it connects to the throttle control.  Otherwise the idle was extremely too high.  Sometimes it's better to just stick to OEM parts for replacement.
3091003
Replaced a set that were good with these because I was performing a tune up on my 01' Ford F150 5.4l. Replaced spark plugs with NGK platinum plugs and these coils. Now I have an immediate misfire right off idle. I have pulled the coils and plugs already once and rechecked all connections. Everything is connected, installed as it should be and torqued to specs. This is the third time I have replaced all of these items as the truck has 250k miles. So this procedure is nothing new to me. However this is the first time I have received a defective Coil On Plug (COP) set. They are cheap by all means...but this shouldn't mean I have to receive an inferior product. I need this rectified.
693554
My check engine light came on in my 02 acura rsx base and codes were p1166 and p1167 my primary air fuel sensor ordered this sensor installed in about 20 minutes reset codes and my problem was fixed codes have not come back on
4709194
2005 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 V8 which was giving me the P0449/PO445 error codes. After researching these engine codes I was able to determine the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid  was most likely the cause of these codes. The part is located under the truck bed just in front of the gas tank. I used a 1ft piece of 5/8" heater hose, 2 hose clamps and 30 minutes of my time to remove and replace this item. I bought the AC Delco 214-2149 Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid even though it is the old/outdated original replacement part (there is a updated part that costs more and takes more time to install).
I erased the error code with my OBD II auto code scanner and the CEL has not come back on.

Save yourself money and time and replace with this part. The old part was cracked and filled with sand.
832015
The engine cuts off apparently for no reason at all. I'm under the impression that there some sort of electrical short however I just haven't had the time to troubleshoot it. Either way, I am pretty displease at the fact that I now have this challenge to deal with
3157687
My engine still runs, so that's good!  All were pre-grapped at 0.050, though 1 of them was smaller than that.  You may want to throw down $1 on a gapping tool to double check.
1342174
Second one of these I've bought that died of engine burnout within the first few months of use. I'd thought the first was a fluke, but the problem seems more systematic. Very poor reliability.
3899675
The check engine light for my 2003 Sienna came up two months ago, with code P0420.  I erased the code twice, and each time the light would come back after 200-250 miles.  P0420 indicates malfunction of catalytic converter.  The computer "knows" this by monitoring the output of the sensor (bank 1 sensor 2 on Sienna) after the cat, and it can be misled by a bad sensor.  Because the sensor is much more likely to become bad than the cat itself, replacing the sensor would be a natural first attempt to fixing the problem.

The sensor was straightforward to replace.  The only hard part was loosening the two 12mm nuts.  I partially rounded one because my 3/8" socket and ratchet did not fit the nut at 90 degrees due to limited space.  My 1/2" socket and ratchet fit it well.  I sprayed PB Blaster beforehand and used a pipe to add torque.  Removing the front passenger seat (fastened with 4 bolts) made it easy to unplug and plug the wire.

The voltage of the sensor is now around 0.7V, while the two air fuel sensors give around 3V, all normal values.  The check engine light has not come back after 400 miles and counting.  (Update in 01/15: 2000 miles and counting.)

Update in 09/16: The check engine light came back with the P0420 code a few times since I replaced the sensor.  Every time I erased the code and did nothing else.  The shortest period for the light to come back after reset was about 500 miles and the longest about 8000 miles, I think.  Anyway, an Internet search reveals this is a common problem, especially for 2001-2003 Sienna.  The real problem is the ECU, which has a hard-coded too stringent threshold that can be easily hit once the catalytic converter and/or the O2 sensor becomes less efficient (but efficient enough for emission control).  Toyota released an updated ECU to fix this problem.  Replacing the ECU costs over 1000, which I would not do for a car this old.  Replacing the cat with an OEM cat is about 500 for the part alone, which I also hesitate to do, and a non-OEM cat won't solve the problem.  So I will just keep erasing the code and hope the check engine light won't come back too frequently.
2058960
Fast delivery. Works well in a Toyoto Avalon 2003 front bank exhaust manifold. Three restarts, and the check engine light went out.
3926278
Some after market parts fit but are rejected by the computer. Still caused codes. Swapped with factory part it works fine
4944395
Continues to throw error code after a few miles. Returned. And this is the downstream not upstream.

Edit: Still getting the same error light/code from the second replacement sensor, I cannot definitively say the sensor did not work and the problem may lie elsewhere in the wiring or computer.
4645042
Replacing the carb. can cure problems like stalling and no-start and black smoke. Get the right mixture tool from Amazon to adjust the mixture. Set the low mixture at idle fir highest idle and the high mixture at full throttle for highest idle. Adjust the idle until the chain just stops.