Durable and Servicable, But Not For Your Fine Chisels and Gouges
592153
Bottom line, Arsenal, put tool retention flaps on the edges of the roll. Chisels have a bad habit of flying out of the rolled-up roll without them. The roll-up will work, but only if you reef down extra hard on the nylon sizing straps - and then give it a test before you put it into your tool box. Otherwise, when you take the roll out of the tool box you're likely to see an airborne tool that will need re-sharpening if not regrinding when you pick it up off the concrete floor.
3413473
I do alot of leatherwork, and I needed a hole punch that would survive real heavy duty use (more than the "I-just-needed-another-hole-in-my-belt" stuff). I needed something with solid handles, since I bent and twisted the stamp-formed handles that come on most rotary punches when I was making a Bible cover for my wife. (That rotary punch went right into the trash). This one can take the abuse. It is solid-handled, able to withstand the pressure that heavy duty leatherworking dishes out. The tubes are conveniently stored in the handle so they are close at hand, and the fact that there is a fixed, rather than rotary jaw, adds to the stability. I gave this tool only 4 stars because I am not thrilled with the tubes that are included; they are threaded a bit "off". When screwed completely in, they do not make full-face contact with the anvil. I found, however, that (for the time being) if you screw/unscrew the tube back and forth a little, you can find the "sweet spot" of full contact. I have used this tool only one time so far on a small project, so I don't know how annoying this will be in the long-term, but I plan to buy a replacement set of tubes from another manufacturer and keep these for emergency spares. As I said earlier, my main concern was to get a tool that would not crumple in my hands as I was attempting to punch through 6-9 oz. leather, and this one does the trick.
2946262
Rough edges on the wood, but otherwise does the job
317648
The extendable handles work remarkably well and add much more power than you might think!  And the locking mechanisms feel sturdy and durable so I think they will hold up to long-term use.

The hand-knob that is used for tightening the hinge is easy enough to turn, but has some kind of stopping mechanism that prevents clamping the hinge as tightly as I would like to clamp it.  A large nylon lock nut with extra-fine threading and a very strong split lock ring would be much better even though it would require a tool to tighten it.

The wavy design of the blade is a huge plus - it helps to prevent thicker branches from sliding out of the blades when you close them.

The big design flaw is that the blade metal isn't thick enough / hard enough to stand up to heavy use.  It isn't so soft that branches will dent the cutting edge (which is a problem with some Fiskars products), but it IS weak enough that sturdier branches can bow the blade and squeeze between the cutting edges.  I bent the blade on mine within five minutes, on a branch that I thought would be just fine to cut.
3329968
I've been using these for a couple years now. They are solid carbide bits in terms of function - if you have a microlathe they're decent and will cut through steel, stainless steel, bronze, brass, copper, whatever you put there, with relative ease. They are on the cheaper side, and a little fragile, so you need to use them with care. If your workpiece catches you will probably chip the bit, after which performance will be significantly degraded, and I've had no luck resharpening them even with a diamond file, I just had to rotate the insert and use that instead.

Speaking of which, as other reviewers have noted, these inserts are very difficult to remove - the screws are tight and strip out easily, you have to be very careful. I stripped one, so after I wore down the carbide bit, I couldn't rotate it to use a fresh side. The others proved similarly difficult to manage. After some experimentation, I found a method that works. What I did was soak the head of the bit in acetone for a minute or so, take it out, dry it off completely, heat it up with a small torch to get it good and hot (not glowing, just hot), then put a few drops of 3-in-one oil on there. Let it soak in, dried up the screw head, and then the other four came out with a proper torx head and a little elbow grease.

In general, decent bits for the money, but you get what you pay for. Not much more to it than that.
2924899
I've been using this attachment for a couple of years now. I recommend it only if you cannot afford a bench top mortiser.

First, attaching the fence to my 16 1/2" Delta drill press is not easy at all. In fact, it's a real pain in the keester. You would think this would be easy because it is a Delta drill press but it isn't.

Second, the workpiece holddowns are cheap and difficult to work with. No matter what you do, the workpiece moves when you don't want it to move, or it stays put when you want it to move. It's not a good design.

Third, the chisels do not drill perfectly square holes. The auger bits are just a hair bigger than the chisels. So, you end up with a circle with square corners. This effect is more pronounced the bigger the chisel/bit.

I finally ditched the table accessories and built my own table jig (which works surprisingly well and looks cool too). This solved the first two issues. If it is really important to have perfectly square mortises, I cut them by hand. This solves the final issue. (Note: the mortises are OK for most joinery because you have a shoulder on the tenon to hide the slightly out of square mortise.)

UPDATE I was hanging out at Woodcraft last Saturday and this guy walks in...to return an auger bit.  The pointy tip on the bit was not on the same axis as the drill bit.  He rotated the bit and I looked at the pointy thing, and it was tracking a circle 3/32" in diameter.  That explains why the drll won't drill a square hole.
4524729
Solid tool for minor hobbies and temporary clamps. Not a replacement for heavy duty long-term clamping
609319
It isn't going to hold up to somebody squeezing it like the guy in the video does. If you need to carry pliers with that kind of torque around in your pocket i don't know what to say to you.
  It's a nifty concept, and well executed. My complaint is the accessibility of the other tools on the thing: SOG makes incredibly sharp knives, and getting to those other tools without cutting yourself takes some getting used to.
2736915
This makes the job of sanding almost tolerable...I said almost
2768831
Durable and sturdy, a little hard to clean in the ridges but I wouldn't trade it for a smooth one
4059187
I'm a self taught wood turner. I have made my own turning tools, and also own the cheap(15$) and expensive(200$) ones. I have some of the most expensive and reliable sharpening systems and jigs. With all that said, I hate sharpening my chisels. Yes I know how to do it right, when my 200$ bowl gouge comes off the sharpener I know it's going to serve me for many hours of turning before needing resharpening. I just don't have the time.

Most of the YouTube turners may show you how to use traditional turning tools, but most of them at some point pull these out for quick and high quality work.

My advice, if you don't care about the prestige and nostalgia of using traditional tools, and don't want to have to buy a lot of expensive sharpening equipment then go with this. I suggest getting all three: detailer, finisher, and a rougher.

1 star off, as i don't personally care for the handle too much, it's more of a personal preference.
3220981
Not terribly durable like our normal disks of 3m cubitron II. We do a lot of work on stainless steel and these just don't get the job done. I think they are fine for regular steel work but if you do precision sanding the corners on these lose their grit quick. For the price they are satisfactory.
831438
First off, let me say that this sharpener works very well, and is easy to use. Although there is a little technique to using it to its best advantage, it doesn't require tremendous manual dexterity to accomplish a good sharpening here. The angles are set for you, and the machine does the work.

Okay, down to specifics:

The Good: This product can recondition a very dull or badly chipped knife quickly. Using the most aggressive sharpening wheel (number one), it cleans up the edge and establishes an initial grind within a handful of pulls per side. For instance, I had an ancient Sabatier cleaver that looked like it'd been used to sack Rome. The edge was tragic. I got it to razor sharpness in about five minutes while chatting with a friend.

In addition, if your knife is not so badly beaten, the second and third stations get it back to a really keen sharpness in no time flat. Yes, even if you have a weird blade shape, like my Kershaw Lifter pocket knife, which is a quasi tanto with a recurved primary edge. The noise, while clearly present, is not so bad as to bother anyone outside the room. I wouldn't use it while someone's trying to watch television right by you, but it's not a bench grinder.

This sharpener can succeed where others have failed. I had an old Puma folder that I'd tried to sharpen with just about every system known to man. It had typically been sharp, but not razor sharp, after these ministrations. I was hesitant to put a "nice" knife through the Chef's Choice, but I had to grit my teeth and try it. Results? It's sharper than I've managed to get it on any other system (flat diamond hones, ceramic sticks, the Lansky controlled angle system, etc.) Classic Pumas had excellent blade hardness, and so this thing is capable of working on harder steels.

The Not so Good: There are two primary drawbacks to this system. The first is that, if the knife goes down to "paring knife" or smaller size, the mechanics of the sharpener are not quite as ideal. For big knives, easy peasy, because they have more material to assure a good angle and a strong interface with the grinders. If the knife is very thin and narrow, you have to be a lot more careful not to put a swale in the edge. With softer steel, or very wide blades, like kitchen knives, you'll sometimes get some superficial scratches. On harder steels and finishes, I have not seen any such issues. Those are the only drawbacks I have found.

The Verdict: This is a great sharpener for someone who doesn't want to spend a long time, and wants to get predictable, good results. Can some other systems get the knives sharper, with greater safety for the finish? Sure. They also take a lot more skill and time. There is probably an upper limit to blade thickness (no hatchets or giant survival knives), but your average folding knife and all your kitchen knives will be fine. I would not necessarily recommend this to people who treat their knives like cult objects. For utilitarian or hard use blades, however, I think it is a great system, and the touch-up should be literally a matter of a minute if the edge hasn't been chipped or rolled. For your heirloom quality, turbonium coated knives of the honored ancestors, perhaps a slower, gentler approach might be better.
640366
Great tool for a narrow range of jobs.  But it still costs too much and wears out too fast.
4362910
Firstly, I've had my worksharp for about 8 months now, I've used it 7-8 times.  Previous to this I was using Norton combination waterstones and a Veritas MK-II honing guide.  I purchased this knowing that there were a few "not ideal" things but looked like it could save me a lot of time grinding... and was considerably cheaper than a Tormek.  I've used it so far to regrind and maintain around 12 chisels, 4 plane irons, and a few gouges.

Pros-
-Works very quickly, especially if you keep sandpaper cleaned/changed regularly
-Very easy to grind primary and secondary bevel
-Slotted disc allows for easy visual adjustment when grinding down gouges/curved blades
-Setup is very quick and simple... it's considerable to "plug and play"

Cons-
-My unit (and what seems to be many other units) has a slight... wobble.  This becomes a problem when trying to flatten the back of a blade... kind of hard to control the blade.  I would say that a variable speed motor would help this problem by slowing down the rpm so that the inconsistencies could be managed better by hand.
-Because of the way the disc rotates in relation to the honing guide I seem to be getting a slightly "skewed" bevel.  Which I suppose has no practical disadvantages.. just looks a little funky.
-The burr removal system (the piece of sandpaper glued to the back of the honing guide slot) can put unseenly scratches in your finely finished back.  (again if you are into it looking good)

I still feel the need to finish the honing with a few passes on the 4000 grit water stone, a few more passes on the 8000, and a final touch on the 16000 Shapton.  The machine does most of the work for me, but for my high standards, doesn't complete the process.  I imagine that for a furniture shop or someone that uses chisels/planes/gouges as a hobbyist it would be pretty darn good, considering the price.

Overall I wish I could rate it 3.5 stars, it's got a lot of time saving capabilities, but for my personal preferences lacks the beginning to end capability.  In hindsight, considering the price I've been happy with my purchase.
4835454
This is one of the sturdier carts of its kind on the market.  It works fine and will last a long time IF YOU ARE VERY GENTLE with it.  It has a couple of design flaws (the exact same flaw as every other cart of this type) and that is that there is a 1/4 inch protrusion on the bottom front of each front foot.  If this protrusion becomes caught on a thick rug, a floor crack or door jam or whatever, it will literally rip the foot and a sizeable chunk of the corner away from the cart, rendering it mostly worthless.

There is a fix however.  Simply cut that little bugger off of each foot before the first use (I used the cutting wheel of my Dremel tool), smooth off a little and it will no longer get caught.  You still need to be pretty gentle with it tho.  Definitely not for rugged use.
3126632
I bought these for one particular project I was working on, so I haven't used them heavily or for long periods of time. For my use they seem to do quite well. The kit contained several of the sizes I needed, the chisels are sharper than I thought they'd be, and they are plenty stout for occasional projects.

There are 2 downers:
1 -There is no carrying case - I've seen many similar products come in a reusable plastic sleeve. These come in a hard plastic package that pretty well needs to be destroyed to open it. You'll need a pouch or block to store them in when done.

2 - I have seen a VERY small amount of deformation on the tips of my flat punches after just one project.

So for occasional use this is a great variety set. If you are needing something for long-term or heavy use, I would recommend looking something else.