Áo dài the "ngũ thân" as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women today. The dress was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an "áo gấm" (brocade robe), a version of the ao dai made of thicker fabric. Academic commentary on the ao dai emphasizes
The Tailor (film) its reputation. An Khanh meets Thanh Loan in order to apologize and ask Thanh Loan how to tailor ao dai properly. Later, Thanh Loan gives An Khanh an envelope which is the letter from Thanh Mai attaching ao dai tailoring method. An Khanh and Nhu Y together practice on how to make ao dai. In the fashion event, model Trang Ngo and many models wear Nhu Y's collection on the catwalk. While the show is going on, Helen intends to switch Nhu Y as the designer into her name in the script, however Tuan catches and confronts her to carefully