Áo dài the "ngũ thân" as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women today. The dress was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an "áo gấm" (brocade robe), a version of the ao dai made of thicker fabric. Academic commentary on the ao dai emphasizes
Traditional Thai clothing and the upper class in Bangkok, and nowadays is used in select circumstances as a national costume. The formal Thai costume, known in Thai as (, literally "Thai dress of royal endorsement"), includes several sets of dress, designed as the Thai national costume in formal occasions. Although described and intended for use as national costume, they are of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the 20th century. Traditional Thai clothing Traditional Thai clothing is called "chut thai" (), which literally means "Thai outfit". It can be worn by men, women, and children. Chut thai for