Áo dài the "ngũ thân" as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women today. The dress was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an "áo gấm" (brocade robe), a version of the ao dai made of thicker fabric. Academic commentary on the ao dai emphasizes
The Tailor (film) the most famous tailor house in Sai Gon. Nine generations of the family have spent their entire life tailoring ao dai. The owner who is Thanh Mai has two daughters: Nhu Y who is her biological daughter and Thanh Loan who was adopted. Thanh Loan enjoys tailoring ao dai while Nhu Y prefers designing Westernized outfits, since she claims ao dai is old-fashioned and doesn't have variety of designs. Thanh Mai advises Nhu Y to focus on learning how to make ao dai but she neglects, because she only likes Western style. One day, Thanh Mai uses a unique piece