SparkleDark/Everything_about_dogs · Datasets at Hugging Face

text stringlengths 0 181
out the time she is carrying her puppies she must have plenty of exercise and
fresh air. But it must not be of too boisterous a character; .and:. I would not
permit a bitch in whelp to play with a dog of her own size, or a larger dog,
too much. A collision between her and a heavy companion might be very
serious indeed.

If your bitch is a house pet and has been accustomed to jumping upon
chairs, the safest plan to guard against accidents is to tip the chairs up
against the wall for a week or two before she is due to whelp — if you are
yet keeping her in the house. When very heavy, she can not always make
the same jump, and should she miss, striking against chair and fall back,
it would likely mean the death of her and the pups.

For a few days after being bred, quietude and exercise on chain is ad-
visable for safety, and should then follow exercise twice daily, in proportion
to constitution, temperament and condition, and as she nears the time of
whelping, the chain may be again necessary, as a restraint.

From the time bitch is bred, the food need not be different from usual
until five or six weeks gone, and showing heavy with pUps, when she will
of course need more to eat. Feed her now more liberally with a fair pro-
portion of beef and mutton. Raw beef cut up fine, is very gxrod in winter,
a little once a day as she approaches the time of whelping. Bread and milk
and especially soups will be very good for the other meals; soft foods and
of an opening nature being desirable. A large beef or veal bone to gnaw
on is good. Plenty of milk is also what she needs. The nearer her time
gets the more she will need to eat. Feed her three times a day during the
last two weeks. On the feeding of the bitch during this time will depend
the size and healthfulness of the coming litter, and when the pups are born,
a warm pan of milk will be relished by the dam, in which may be put a
little baking soda. Soft food should be continued for a few days, when a
return to ordinary diet will be safe.

Many times a female, after giving birth to her young, refuses to eat
and loses her appetite. A few drops of assafcetida given in water and a
little rubbed on her gums usually restores her appetite, and with a good
appetite usually comes a good flow of milk.

It is usually after a lapse of sixty-three days that the pups come, and
some days before the event a suitable secluded place should be provided
for her. It is important that a record should be kept of date she was bred.
Have her stall or kennel prepared a week before she is due. If in winter
this must be warm, but with light and ventilation. The latter must only
be furnished from the top.

I've found the best plan to be, to securely tack down an old carpet or
blanket. on the floor which enables the puppies to get a foothold when first
born, and thus crawl to their mother. The bitch will scratch and dig for
several days before whelping and try her best to scratch up the carpet, so
put in plenty of tacks. This carpet should be exchanged for a clean one, the
next day after she whelps. A little of Clayton's or the Vermilax Co.'s flea
powder sprinkled around in her box shoufcl be clone daily. A loose carpet
in box is not advisable, as a puppy is liable to get under it and get smothered.

Not all bitches are good mothers, some being too nervous, and through
this nervousness and from fear that they may lose some of their children,
or that you might take one away, they get excited, and lay on a pup or two.

A very safe plan I've found, and I always so fit up the stall or box,
is to fasten a shelf a few inches from the floor to the sides and back of box,
extending out a few inches so that if she gets nervous and turns around too
often to get a place to suit her, the pups are protected from being laid on
by this shelf.

It is generally best not to disturb the bitch at the time of whelping,
but in case of fever or excitement, or, in fact, if anything indicating trouble
be detected, it may be necessary for some one to remain with her, and for
the pups to be taken away and kept warm until normal conditions return.
Veterinarian skill may be necessary in some conditions, but as a warm place
for the pups is all that is needed for a couple of hours after birth, it is easy
to take the milk from the teats with the hand if the fever is likely to have
rendered it injurious to the pups and the fever may be quickly remedied,
and a non-injurious flow made in time for the pups to rejoin their mother.

The very best advice I can give the breeder is, do not interfere; the few
cases where it will be necessary to do so will only add force to this rule.
When help is called for, find a verterinary surgeon who understands treat-
ment of dogs, or one who makes dogs a specialty. Many veterinarians are
all right as to horses and cows, but woefully ignorant as to dogs. If manual
assistance has to be given, avoid unnecessary force. When labor is protract-
ed and bitch seems to need assistance to create more labor pains, then give
her Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate, two hours apart; the dose
would be a half teaspoonful for a bitch of 15 to 25 lbs., and three-quarters of
"a teaspoonful for a 25 to 40-lb. bitch, with a teaspoonful for larger ones up
to 60 lbs., while for very large bitches such as a St. Bernard, a teaspoonful
and a half would be the dose. Get one ounce of the Fellows' Compound
Syrup of Hypophosphate and have your druggist add to it four grains of
quinine. I have found this very valuable, much better and safer than ergot
(the liquid extract of rye), which is liable to work both ways, favorable
and otherwise, expanding or contracting the womb. Such medicine is not
always necessary, as in very many cases Nature takes care of the matter,
and it is only needed and advised to be given when bitch requires assistance
— the object being to create more labor pains if bitch needs the same. In
several cases of bitches that required the Fellows' Syrup of Hypophosphate

I also gave an injection per vagina of glycerine put into hot water and
injected luke warm, but of course not hot.

The cases of greatest danger are where a bitch has been allowed to
stray during cestrum, and was bred to a dog of much larger size than her-

out the time she is carrying her puppies she must have plenty of exercise and

fresh air. But it must not be of too boisterous a character; .and:. I would not

permit a bitch in whelp to play with a dog of her own size, or a larger dog,

too much. A collision between her and a heavy companion might be very

serious indeed.

If your bitch is a house pet and has been accustomed to jumping upon

chairs, the safest plan to guard against accidents is to tip the chairs up

against the wall for a week or two before she is due to whelp — if you are

yet keeping her in the house. When very heavy, she can not always make

the same jump, and should she miss, striking against chair and fall back,

it would likely mean the death of her and the pups.

For a few days after being bred, quietude and exercise on chain is ad-

visable for safety, and should then follow exercise twice daily, in proportion

to constitution, temperament and condition, and as she nears the time of

whelping, the chain may be again necessary, as a restraint.

From the time bitch is bred, the food need not be different from usual

until five or six weeks gone, and showing heavy with pUps, when she will

of course need more to eat. Feed her now more liberally with a fair pro-

portion of beef and mutton. Raw beef cut up fine, is very gxrod in winter,

a little once a day as she approaches the time of whelping. Bread and milk

and especially soups will be very good for the other meals; soft foods and

of an opening nature being desirable. A large beef or veal bone to gnaw

on is good. Plenty of milk is also what she needs. The nearer her time

gets the more she will need to eat. Feed her three times a day during the

last two weeks. On the feeding of the bitch during this time will depend

the size and healthfulness of the coming litter, and when the pups are born,

a warm pan of milk will be relished by the dam, in which may be put a

little baking soda. Soft food should be continued for a few days, when a

return to ordinary diet will be safe.

Many times a female, after giving birth to her young, refuses to eat

and loses her appetite. A few drops of assafcetida given in water and a

little rubbed on her gums usually restores her appetite, and with a good

appetite usually comes a good flow of milk.

It is usually after a lapse of sixty-three days that the pups come, and

some days before the event a suitable secluded place should be provided

for her. It is important that a record should be kept of date she was bred.

Have her stall or kennel prepared a week before she is due. If in winter

this must be warm, but with light and ventilation. The latter must only

be furnished from the top.

I've found the best plan to be, to securely tack down an old carpet or

blanket. on the floor which enables the puppies to get a foothold when first

born, and thus crawl to their mother. The bitch will scratch and dig for

several days before whelping and try her best to scratch up the carpet, so

put in plenty of tacks. This carpet should be exchanged for a clean one, the

next day after she whelps. A little of Clayton's or the Vermilax Co.'s flea

powder sprinkled around in her box shoufcl be clone daily. A loose carpet

in box is not advisable, as a puppy is liable to get under it and get smothered.

Not all bitches are good mothers, some being too nervous, and through

this nervousness and from fear that they may lose some of their children,

or that you might take one away, they get excited, and lay on a pup or two.

A very safe plan I've found, and I always so fit up the stall or box,

is to fasten a shelf a few inches from the floor to the sides and back of box,

extending out a few inches so that if she gets nervous and turns around too

often to get a place to suit her, the pups are protected from being laid on

by this shelf.

It is generally best not to disturb the bitch at the time of whelping,

but in case of fever or excitement, or, in fact, if anything indicating trouble

be detected, it may be necessary for some one to remain with her, and for

the pups to be taken away and kept warm until normal conditions return.

Veterinarian skill may be necessary in some conditions, but as a warm place

for the pups is all that is needed for a couple of hours after birth, it is easy

to take the milk from the teats with the hand if the fever is likely to have

rendered it injurious to the pups and the fever may be quickly remedied,

and a non-injurious flow made in time for the pups to rejoin their mother.

The very best advice I can give the breeder is, do not interfere; the few

cases where it will be necessary to do so will only add force to this rule.

When help is called for, find a verterinary surgeon who understands treat-

ment of dogs, or one who makes dogs a specialty. Many veterinarians are

all right as to horses and cows, but woefully ignorant as to dogs. If manual

assistance has to be given, avoid unnecessary force. When labor is protract-

ed and bitch seems to need assistance to create more labor pains, then give

her Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate, two hours apart; the dose

would be a half teaspoonful for a bitch of 15 to 25 lbs., and three-quarters of

"a teaspoonful for a 25 to 40-lb. bitch, with a teaspoonful for larger ones up

to 60 lbs., while for very large bitches such as a St. Bernard, a teaspoonful

and a half would be the dose. Get one ounce of the Fellows' Compound

Syrup of Hypophosphate and have your druggist add to it four grains of

quinine. I have found this very valuable, much better and safer than ergot

(the liquid extract of rye), which is liable to work both ways, favorable

and otherwise, expanding or contracting the womb. Such medicine is not

always necessary, as in very many cases Nature takes care of the matter,

and it is only needed and advised to be given when bitch requires assistance

— the object being to create more labor pains if bitch needs the same. In

several cases of bitches that required the Fellows' Syrup of Hypophosphate

I also gave an injection per vagina of glycerine put into hot water and

injected luke warm, but of course not hot.

The cases of greatest danger are where a bitch has been allowed to

stray during cestrum, and was bred to a dog of much larger size than her-